Always helpful information Larry. THANK YOU for doing these awesome videos. Honestly, I bought acid flux before I watched your videos! Fortunately, I used it on some practice rails and am getting rid of it immediately and getting some rosin flux online right now.
I think I said alcohol. That could be ethanol, methanol, and yes I have use IPA as well. I haven’t tried 100 proof vodka or gin but I bet it would work too!
Again thanks for this video Larry, I've applied my retained knowledge and my soldering has improved 100%. While I have watched most of your previous how to's, these succent 'key things to know' videos really help you focus on the important stuff. I run my iron so much hotter now for starters. I'll look forward to more.
UK SR or USA? I have one of the new Wainwright 4-4-0s in Southern livery along with a couple of Maunsell green coaches. Need a freight loco to go along as well. Almost got an N class but turned out to be split chassis so I opted to wait until a DCC compatible one pops up or Bachmann does a C class.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks for reply Larry, USA I was sold on Atlas, Proto, etc many decades ago and just liked the Southern livery, smooth running and reliable all still going now , even after 3 children playing race track, just a note of interest the UK southern green was used for the early USA southern livery,( it's somewhere in the history books) anyway if you get a chance check my latest vid weathering 0/1, just some of my stock , thank again Gav.
Larry, I could really use some ADVICE here. New tip and I can not for the life of me get the tip shinny. It turns dark (oxidation) I’m guessing these are brand NEW TIPS. THE solder looks old and dull and won’t adhere to the work. This is after cleaning the tip letting whatever is on from the manufacture burn off. This is 4 tips so far please HELP
You might try using tip cleaner on it. This is a mixture of paste flux and solder that will clean the tip and get it shiny at the same time. Also make sure the tip,is hot enough when trying to melt the solder on it. You can get tip cleaner at just about any electronics supply house-I got mine from All Electronics but just go to Amazon and look for soldering iron tip cleaner.
Another great reason to be glad I'm a subscriber. Got a question for you - a tiny bit off topic - I've got 2 Kato Sd70ace's I installed the same sound card in both. One is perfect, the other runs, then stops and reboots-as if I just started it up. I've checked everything - disassembled several times, , checked the tape, the contacts, everything. I think it's a bad card and here's why - if it were a contact problem then it would stop and start - not reboot. I got the card a few weeks ago. I'd really appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks!
It does sound like a contact issue. Have you tried cleaning the wheels and pickups? If that doesn’t work then do a reset. If that doesn’t help call tech support or arrange a swap with your dealer. BTW what brand decoder is it?
@@TheDCCGuy Hi Larry - thanks for the quick response. It's an XL 0001960 from XL Systems. I believe they make the MRC stuff. Would you recommend that I de-solder and re-solder (basically re-install it)? Also - I set my soldering iron to 570° sounds like it should be higher. Is there any chance I damaged the card when I installed it, or would that be a go/no go symptom rather than it's current flaky behavior?
Common solder melts at about 361-374 degrees F so you probably are OK on that-I often use 800 F with my pencil tip and have never damaged a decoder. If the reset doesn’t work I’d ask the dealer for a replacement.
Hi Larry - so I accidentally soldered a rail joiner on the inside of the rail. Two points connected together. Do you recommend that I remove the solder with desoldering wick or just see if it causes any issues once I get a train running on that track? Thanks for the videos. I always enjoy them.
I would fix it now because to do it later may be more complicated. Now when I need to remove a rail joiner I just grip the end of it with a pair of hemostats and then lay the tip of the iron on it until it slides off. You can then clean the excess solder left on the rail using the wick. You may also need to sand it a bit to get it off the side and bottom of the rail.
Watch my videos on LEDs for more tips. I use the same size wires as on most decoders today. Some are scraps from previous decoder installs and some are from a bundle of wires Digitrax dealers sell. I think they are about 28-32 awg.
Hi Larry. I would like to know the best way to contact the tortoise to DD64. I know the code 1 and 8 go to power which code from 2 to 7 in tortoise go to DS64. to control it. Best regards
Hi larry great tuition I have a question for you. I am changing my dc engines steam of course to dcc .Most are straight forwsrd as the only need 4pin hard wire But here is the question I have 5 with virtual smoke the elements are all single wire using the body as earth .Should i bypass the chip as the current draw may be to much for it and wire it via a resistor to reduce the 15 volt current ?.Have you done this before. Many thanks Will
Will, I have never tried that myself. The steam locos I have with smoke generators are all controlled by the decoder and came factory installed. But I never use them as the smoke (which is heated oil in most) can end up on your rails, as I have been told and read. I would not wire it through the decoder unless you can determine from the instructions or manufacturer that it would not zap it. In the early days of DCC it was common practice to run a headlight directly to ground but the decoders were designed for it-yours may not be.
@@TheDCCGuy The attraction of this dcc stuff was having multiple trains running without a gantry of controllers about the place. I suppose i should just keep it simple but theres nothing like a big A4 smokin! down the line. Thanks for your time Larry cheers. PS are you any relation to Garry Pucket musician band called Union Gap?
Will-yes if you can’t get more specifics on it then simple is always better. I have an A4 on my wishlist once Hornby works their way back to making the non Railroad version. I just watched a review of the Railroad version on Sam’s Trains and it wasn’t nice. I guess I could try eBay but prices there seem so inflated relative to Hatton’s or Rails of Sheffield.
I just remembered something that may help. Richard on his New Junction Railway UA-cam channel did a video on his O scale A4 in which he had a company install DCC and smoke. He mentioned the company name so you might watch that video to get the name and see if they have any tips on their website about mixing these.
The big difference among 60:40 and 63:37, which are the two main lead based versions you will see, is that 63:37 solidifies essentially immediately after heat is removed whereas 60:40 does not. Consequently your chances of a cold solder joint (not good) are greater with 60:40. As soon as I finish off my 1 lb spool of 60:40 I am switching. It has lasted me years but is now down to just a few ounces. The small spool I often use has a bit of silver in it and makes a harder joint. You can find all this stuff in spools ranging from small to a full pound.
Larry Tip# 4 was something I was doing wrong thanks for the tip.
Thanks for the temperature tip. I needed that.
Have a very happy Christmas Larry and best wishes for the New Year. Thank you for informative and very interesting videos. Best wishes, Mike
Excellent Larry. I like the new format and the refer back list to the more detailed videos. I'm looking forward to more in this series.
Great refresher on soldering!
Thanks Larry, This was very helpfull. Nick, aqustralia
Thank you Larry some really good concise Advice, keep safe.
Always helpful information Larry. THANK YOU for doing these awesome videos. Honestly, I bought acid flux before I watched your videos! Fortunately, I used it on some practice rails and am getting rid of it immediately and getting some rosin flux online right now.
Good stuff Larry, thanks heaps. Cleaning with IPA was a new one for me.
I think I said alcohol. That could be ethanol, methanol, and yes I have use IPA as well. I haven’t tried 100 proof vodka or gin but I bet it would work too!
Again thanks for this video Larry, I've applied my retained knowledge and my soldering has improved 100%.
While I have watched most of your previous how to's, these succent 'key things to know' videos really help you focus on the important stuff. I run my iron so much hotter now for starters.
I'll look forward to more.
Thanks Larry, starting to work on my little Southern layout, great tips and advice , Sub and liked ! from UK.
UK SR or USA? I have one of the new Wainwright 4-4-0s in Southern livery along with a couple of Maunsell green coaches. Need a freight loco to go along as well. Almost got an N class but turned out to be split chassis so I opted to wait until a DCC compatible one pops up or Bachmann does a C class.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks for reply Larry, USA I was sold on Atlas, Proto, etc many decades ago and just liked the Southern livery, smooth running and reliable all still going now , even after 3 children playing race track, just a note of interest the UK southern green was used for the early USA southern livery,( it's somewhere in the history books) anyway if you get a chance check my latest vid weathering 0/1, just some of my stock , thank again Gav.
Larry, I could really use some ADVICE here. New tip and I can not for the life of me get the tip shinny. It turns dark (oxidation) I’m guessing these are brand NEW TIPS. THE solder looks old and dull and won’t adhere to the work. This is after cleaning the tip letting whatever is on from the manufacture burn off. This is 4 tips so far please HELP
You might try using tip cleaner on it. This is a mixture of paste flux and solder that will clean the tip and get it shiny at the same time. Also make sure the tip,is hot enough when trying to melt the solder on it. You can get tip cleaner at just about any electronics supply house-I got mine from All Electronics but just go to Amazon and look for soldering iron tip cleaner.
DCC Concepts sell excellent solder and flux. It’s the best !
I took a high reliability soldering class as part of my military electronics training and it has served me well for all these years!
Morning, thanks for another great video. Question i have for you is do you have a video of a layout tour on your layout?
Thanks
Jose
Yes, video 115.
Another great reason to be glad I'm a subscriber. Got a question for you - a tiny bit off topic -
I've got 2 Kato Sd70ace's I installed the same sound card in both. One is perfect, the other runs, then stops and reboots-as if I just started it up. I've checked everything - disassembled several times, , checked the tape, the contacts, everything. I think it's a bad card and here's why - if it were a contact problem then it would stop and start - not reboot. I got the card a few weeks ago. I'd really appreciate your thoughts on this.
Thanks!
It does sound like a contact issue. Have you tried cleaning the wheels and pickups? If that doesn’t work then do a reset. If that doesn’t help call tech support or arrange a swap with your dealer. BTW what brand decoder is it?
@@TheDCCGuy Hi Larry - thanks for the quick response. It's an XL 0001960 from XL Systems. I believe they make the MRC stuff. Would you recommend that I de-solder and re-solder (basically re-install it)?
Also - I set my soldering iron to 570° sounds like it should be higher. Is there any chance I damaged the card when I installed it, or would that be a go/no go symptom rather than it's current flaky behavior?
Common solder melts at about 361-374 degrees F so you probably are OK on that-I often use 800 F with my pencil tip and have never damaged a decoder. If the reset doesn’t work I’d ask the dealer for a replacement.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks again one last thing - is a reset the same thing as restoring it to the default settings?
Yes, usually that means programming CV8 to a value of 8 although some decoders have and still may use other values.
Hi Larry - so I accidentally soldered a rail joiner on the inside of the rail. Two points connected together. Do you recommend that I remove the solder with desoldering wick or just see if it causes any issues once I get a train running on that track? Thanks for the videos. I always enjoy them.
I would fix it now because to do it later may be more complicated. Now when I need to remove a rail joiner I just grip the end of it with a pair of hemostats and then lay the tip of the iron on it until it slides off. You can then clean the excess solder left on the rail using the wick. You may also need to sand it a bit to get it off the side and bottom of the rail.
Hi Larry, Some of the LED lights contain extremely small gauge wire. Any tips on making extensions and what is an appropriate gauge of wire?
Watch my videos on LEDs for more tips. I use the same size wires as on most decoders today. Some are scraps from previous decoder installs and some are from a bundle of wires Digitrax dealers sell. I think they are about 28-32 awg.
Hi Larry. I would like to know the best way to contact the tortoise to DD64. I know the code 1 and 8 go to power which code from 2 to 7 in tortoise go to DS64. to control it. Best regards
Hi larry great tuition I have a question for you. I am changing my dc engines steam of course to dcc .Most are straight forwsrd as the only need 4pin hard wire But here is the question I have 5 with virtual smoke the elements are all single wire using the body as earth .Should i bypass the chip as the current draw may be to much for it and wire it via a resistor to reduce the 15 volt current ?.Have you done this before.
Many thanks
Will
Will, I have never tried that myself. The steam locos I have with smoke generators are all controlled by the decoder and came factory installed. But I never use them as the smoke (which is heated oil in most) can end up on your rails, as I have been told and read. I would not wire it through the decoder unless you can determine from the instructions or manufacturer that it would not zap it. In the early days of DCC it was common practice to run a headlight directly to ground but the decoders were designed for it-yours may not be.
@@TheDCCGuy The attraction of this dcc stuff was having multiple trains running without a gantry of controllers about the place. I suppose i should just keep it simple but theres nothing like a big A4 smokin! down the line.
Thanks for your time Larry cheers.
PS are you any relation to Garry Pucket musician band called Union Gap?
Will-yes if you can’t get more specifics on it then simple is always better. I have an A4 on my wishlist once Hornby works their way back to making the non Railroad version. I just watched a review of the Railroad version on Sam’s Trains and it wasn’t nice. I guess I could try eBay but prices there seem so inflated relative to Hatton’s or Rails of Sheffield.
I just remembered something that may help. Richard on his New Junction Railway UA-cam channel did a video on his O scale A4 in which he had a company install DCC and smoke. He mentioned the company name so you might watch that video to get the name and see if they have any tips on their website about mixing these.
@@TheDCCGuy cheers Larry
Hi. Larry. I like to know which is the bar steel wire size I can use it with Tortoise Switche Machine. Thank you
I use 0.032” piano wire (#501) from the K&S display stand at the hobby shop.
@@TheDCCGuy thanks Larry for your support to my request. Have a good weekend
Hi Larry. I use a Sn60/Pb40 solder. I’ve seen other ratios. It comes coiled in a small tube and is handy. Does the ratio matter? Thanks.
The big difference among 60:40 and 63:37, which are the two main lead based versions you will see, is that 63:37 solidifies essentially immediately after heat is removed whereas 60:40 does not. Consequently your chances of a cold solder joint (not good) are greater with 60:40. As soon as I finish off my 1 lb spool of 60:40 I am switching. It has lasted me years but is now down to just a few ounces. The small spool I often use has a bit of silver in it and makes a harder joint. You can find all this stuff in spools ranging from small to a full pound.
Cool
Will you ever replace the clock batteries?
That is a fast clock that runs off a controller for operations.
👍👍👍
Petrolium vaseline can be used as a flux for soldering as well.
Yes, that is true.
At 1.5 they are even quicker tips😀
👍😀
Nothing like getting a 'Cold' solder joint! It ain't gonna work! Make sure the finished joint is 'shiny' or 'wet' looking!
.... OK, I had to.... My tip is wet.