Thank you Larry excellent, this is the best Explanation of DCC and it‘s Advantages over DC ai have ever heard and is a must for all newcomers to the Hobby. Keep safe.
#5. If you want just mobile decoder, which I do mostly, is super cheap. I personally tend to go with Athearn Blue Box locomotives, but I deal with some others. My latest locomotive I just got and put dcc, is an Athearn blue box Dash 9. Got it for $28 including shipping off Ebay. Put a digitrax 126D in it and upgraded the lights to LED with front and back. I also put ditch lights in it. The ditch lights don't blink and wired with front headlight. About an hour or less later and a total cost around $54. I had a really good running DCC loco with LED's. Now I get to repaint it to my freelance railroad. If you want cheap basic dcc system Bachmann offers a basic but good system for around $160. I used to have one years ago. I now got a Digitrax Super Chief Xtra, bought it used and complete at a train show for $200.
Larry, in model railroading, like with a lot of other subjects, especially when the content gets technical, it’s very common to use acronyms. However, the users of those acronyms should repeatedly be aware of their habit, especially when communicating to audiences of whom their level of entry cannot be determined. When I see your videos, I’m a happy viewer whenever you make the jargon accessible. To me that’s the main reason to watch your shows. Your info is very informative and educational, and considering your use of appropriate jargon, there’s a lot of runarounds available in other videos of your hand. For which, as a rookie to dcc, am very grateful.
This is a great video! I started a DC build of a 10 by 14 layout. Was about 30 percent through building when I made the fateful decision to go DCC. There were some serious mistakes made because I was looking at the build without a lot of knowledge of DCC. This overview breaks it down into simple components. It tied knowledge gained together. Looking forward to getting back to the conversion and enjoying positive results
Larry, thank you for making everything so easy to understand, as ever a great Presentation, your Channel certainly offers the greatest help to Modellers who want to make the most of all the Advantages that DCC has to offer and I’d be lost without the comprehensive Videos that you’re regularly producing. Best Wishes and Keep safe.
Hi Larry, thanks for the myth-buster! I run a DCC trackbus (x2) alongside DC accessories - well for now anyway. The former gave me sound and multiple trains, the latter used my existing wiring to power points, signals, lighting, etc. I guess I'll go the whole hog one day but happy enough for now. As for the 'more expensive' issue, last year I sold off half of my loco stud and those kits that never get built, and that paid for my NCE starter system. All is going well still and I'm onto boosters and a second throttle already. Cheers, Bob in UK
Larry: Yes! You can use DCC on a small layout. I'm using it on a 24"' x 48" N-gauge layout I've built as my training aid -- two locomotives, one RDC, and six turnouts. This is to help me learn both N-gauge and DCC and get me ready for a larger 36" x 78" layout. Keep up the good work...from Larry (former Supervisor of Construction, Blue Ridge Traction, Power & Light)
Excellent video Larry you have laid to rest some common DCC myths.your explanation of how DCC works and it’s many advantages over DC was excellent.👍😁😁😁😁🇬🇧🚂
Larry. Thanks for this video. You asked about possible subject areas for the future. I'm very interested in how (and using what kit) it is possible to additional devices into a DCC layout. I have seen model house lights, crossing gates, smoke generators (for a model volcano in a scenery mountain!) street lights, sound effects (such as firestation bells), ski-lifts and on-loco solenoids for decoupling locos - all supposedly controlled via DCC. A roundup of how such "extras" work would be most welcome.
Thanks for making time to create this video. Its one I will be showing to my father n law who is getting into DCC for the first time. It would be very interesting to see DCC signal shown in a oscilloscope to better understand whats being put down the track. As I too was under the impression that DCC was 2 signals going down the track. The AC signal as the primary track power along with a Digital Signal to communicate with the decoder. As both AC and Digital can reside on the same wire.
I covered that previously discussing how the digital signal is part of DCC track power, maybe in the videos on DC vs DCC, but with almost 200 of them I have lost track of what I exactly said in each.
Larry ,Thanks for your video on dcc. I am new to n scale and building a 83" by 42" layout with dcc digitrax dcs52. I live in a 3 bedroom apartment with a 1 car garage where I am building the layout . I have a table that folds up so I can move it into the guest bedroom which doubles as a guest bedroom and when we have guests I can put the train table in the closet. I really like your videos. Vavel Wright
Good video. I consider myself an 'experienced' DCC user who is progressing into the 'advanced' level. Your video left me wanting you to do a review of techniques and products designed for cleaning locomotive wheels. I'm not just talking about using a Q-Tip on the wheels, but more like the 'treadmill' or electically powered devices you press onto the underside of the locomotive (IF they work). Also, I have many older HO steam locomotives that have power pickup on one side and tender pickup on the other side, so please talk about those in addition to diesel locomotives. If you have already done videos on this topic, I have to go back and look for them (but I wanted to type the comment while I was thinking about it). Thanks!
I don’t like the idea of using the metal brush wheel cleaners. First, you run the risk of removing any nickel plating that might be on the wheel tread if that was used. Second, and more important, you may create scratches on the tread which can attract more dirt, grease, and grime. I’ll come up with a video on my recommendations for improving electrical pickup, good suggestion!
I too have drawers full of them, I guess eBay is going to be my solution and then buy new ones with decoders. I am really tired of painting the noses on those Southern E and F units!
Nice vid. I actually got back into model railroading after several decades absence because of DCC. In my old HO days, constantly being frustrated trying to run locos at realistic speeds on brass rails using variable voltage control just did me in. With DCC, it seemed that technology had finally caught up with the hobby. A constant 15V across the N scale nickel silver rails with no need for electrically isolated blocks to run multiple trains seemed too good to be true. All the electronics I used to use to design power supplies to simulate inertia and momentum, now on a chip in the loco. And then I got my first loco with SOUND. Complicated? I'm still using a Bachmann EZ Command. DecoderPro on an old laptop with a Sprog 3 interface handles all the CV fiddling.
Larry, Could you clarify what if anything needs to be electrically isolated from dcc track voltage when converting an old dc loco to dcc? For example: I have an old steam loco that uses a metal worm gear connected to one rail through gears. Can the worm gear remain electrically connected to a new can motor shaft? Does the new can motor case need to be isolated from the frame that is tied to one rail? The basics of this conversion is not obvious to me. Maybe you have covered this in another video?
I probably did in one of my brass conversions but that was a while ago. The motor has to be totally isolated to prevent shorts. In past work I have had to place a layer of electrical tape under motors to isolate them from the frame and then use a nylon screw to replace the original metal one. I have never seen one where a metal worm gear was part of the electrical pathway but nothing would surprise me. You may have to use a plastic or nylon gear to isolate the motor shaft although I can never remember having to do that. You could check the new motor and see if the shaft is isolated from the motor internally. I don’t recall ever having to replace a metal worm gear on a can motor so it may be that your old motor may have been specially designed for that type of wiring scheme.
Yes, as long as analog conversion is enabled. You will have a more limited speed control range but it should work fine, especially if it is a more recent decoder. However on e you out it back on a DCC layout I recommend turning analog conversion off. I discussed this in my recent video #199 on 5 ways to improve performance.
Just which you’re y and loop video if I understand correctly that you still have to use the rubber plastic Insulateders and on a dubble mainline crossover do you still have to use the insulareders
I have one Walthers double crossover on the Piedmont Southern and no insulators, they are built into the crossover. I am hoping they will start making these again as I need another but I have nit seen them in the new lineup-yet.
Hi Larry, an excellent video. Thank you for spending the time to do it. I am not sure why, but for some reason closed captions were not available to me. I am hard of hearing and often turn on captions to better understand the terms or item names.
To the viewer who inspired this video: we all feel your pain. To put it simply, if you plan on running more than one loco at a time you MUST have DCC. Yes, it can be confusing. Larry has taught me so much - keep watching his videos and those of other experts. Larry: part of the problem with programming CVs is that the various manuals are all pretty much terrible at describing how binary arithmetic works when setting the various bits in a field. Maybe an episode on that? Probably not enough to fill a whole episode but you might address it for a bit. Bit, ha. See what I did there?
In reality there no longer is any need to worry with bits and bytes, most throttle based programming systems take care of that for you. I haven’t worried with that in over a decade. And with DecoderPro you just click and go in mant cases or simply enter a decimal value. Even if it costs you a few bucks to buy a computer interface ti use DecorPro, it is usually much less than a loco and makes programming even complex CVs easy.
@@TheDCCGuy Cost to start using JRMI (Decoder Pro) is negligible compared to the hobby. For the cost of one or two rail cars, you can buy an Arduino and Motorshiled and install the code needed to run JRMI on it. There are videos on YT that show how to do it on the cheap. I built mine for about $40. I'm new to DCC and found that after a few hours looking at the software and what it does, I can't imagine doing it any other way. Almost everything I would need to modify in a CV is handled in a programming page instead.
Amazing video Larry, thanks! I totally see the point of DCC being cheaper, in that if you are running a multi-block layout! Was going to do a DC/DCC combo layout, but will focus more towards full DCC and simply convert my old locomotives to DCC! Question, if you are running a track cleaner car, are there some types of cleaners that one must watch out for as these solutions could be conductive, or would this be more of a concern if the voltage was higher?
I use isopropyl alcohol in my cleaning car, I consider it about the safest you can choose. Avoid GooGone as it leaves a sticky residue and lighter fluid is too flammable. Really a damp cloth (with water) works well since most of what you want to remove is dirt and dust. Of course if you have been doing scenery without covering the track then you might need to get more aggressive, that’s when I pull out a bright boy.
Check out Ron’s trains and things, he just did a very in-depth tutorial on using non polar track cleaner and no ox rail treatment. This might finally be the answer to fewer cleaning sessions.
@@derekalexander4030 Thanks Derek! I didn't realize how 'dirty' rails can get from electrical micro arcing! Is NO-OX-ID plastic safe? I know that certain mineral spirits are bad for some plastics like ABS (some track ties?). I use use high quality Staedtler vinyl erasers to clean the track and then vacuum the tidbits after.
No Ox ID is a conductive GREASE designed for use in electrical connectors like wire nuts. I would not use it on rails or wheels as it will lubricate them. It also will leave a greasy film that will attract dirt and dust creating more gunk on your wheels. As for the polar vs non polar cleaner issue you need to think about what you are cleaning. Rails are in a very difference environment than electrical contacts inside a switch, or a motor, or other enclosed electrical device. While mineral spirits might be a good cleaner you need to be careful about selecting some others. For example some WD-40 formulations contain lubricants whereas others are cleaners which leave no residue. Wahl clipper oil has been offered up as a great choice for years but I would not want an oil film on my rails or wheels.
@@TheDCCGuy Hi Larry! Thanks for the clarification regarding OxID, it seemed a bit too good to be true! By plastic safe, I meant when you use it on metal tracks and some of the grease hits the ties, will it degrade the plastic over time? For now, I'll stick 99% IPA. Cheers! 👍👍
Thanks Larry for the timely video. You talked about dcc friendly. I am building my n scale layout using unitrack. Do you consider the turnouts dcc friendly?
I have never used it but Kato implies it is safe with DCC. The main issue are all those track connections which can lead to voltage drops over long runs if you don’t figure out some way to add track feeders.
Great video, and I agree mine is a small layout and love dcc, question do they make a sound decoder for n scale with sound already on decoder, have hard wired old loco but thinking of installing sound in some drop in decoder types
Unfortunately I only know that SoundTraxx recently released one for a Kato model so I bet more will come. There may be others that I am not aware of yet. Your best bet is to get out your shoehorn and go with the SoundTraxx TSU-1100 and a sugar cube speaker. Finding space in a loco not specifically designed for a decoder is always a problem in N scale. Good luck 👍
Can you please do an in-depth review of the TCS UWT-100 DCC controller? I know that you did a review of it for Model Railroader Magazine when it came out, but I never seen you do an in-depth review of the UWT-100 on your channel. Can you please do one maybe for your next video?
Shorting track power/communication is more possible with DCC since that power/communication is continous... repeating occurances may "haywire" a decoder. Finding a DC/DCC locomotive with >QSI< decoders were/are operable in both DC and DCC powerpacks. DC powerpacks with seperate direction switches allow for whistle and doppler effects when simply mastered, "braking squeal" when slowing down, and "low idle", also capable when mastered. These are simple frills with older DC powerpacks. "Power-Routing" switches (Peco) are a wonderful invention when using straight DC power (when you know how to use them-which isn't very complicated) and can save you from additional wire and toggle hook-ups. Using an MRC Tech VI is a wonderful beginners DC/DCC controller... a bonus when the matching hand-held is included (uses a CAT-5 cable), and allows Loco/Train #1-#6... avoiding specific locomotive numbers (albeit to remember which "train" is appointed those #1-#6.) From age eight to 52... jumping into DCC locomotives in my early 40's and seeking DCC loco's by age 50... I still have DC locomotives because I will not totally convert. That MRC Tech VI is something I greatly recommend. It "easily" runs both (one at a time) at a touch of a button... and a couple of DPDT switches. Those QSI DC/DCC decoder locomotives are another treat when simply mastered. By the way, I do still buy DC powered locomotives because I can "more readily" work on them without worry and power-test them with a good 9-Volt battery. MRC Tech VI button to standard DC power option, and away that DC locomotive rolls to put a train together! ENJOY! John BC, Canada
You talked about power and you said that all are AC power not ture ,The new digitrax command stations band boosters DC power input it says in the instructions they are DC only but it does not say it is on the box it won't be careful.
I think you misunderstood but if you will give me a specific time in the video that I made that statement I will check it and confirm that. First though there are two things to consider: (1) older systems could use DC or AC as the power supply to the command station and boosters, and (2) track power is neither AC or DC bit instead is DCC. So I think you misunderstood the distinctions I was making on that point.
That is all on NCE doing a HORRIBLE job at explaining what is what when it comes to DCC. The Digitrax starter manual from the Zephyer Express explains EVERYTHING and does it very well. DCC is expensive in starting out, the upfront costs are...high, depending on how many locomotives you want to start out with DCC. With starter sets, and a few decoders will set you back about $300-$400 (Command station+decoders). There is no need to convert your ENTIRE fleet right from the start, but getting a command station and picking 5 of your locomotives (that are DCC ready, and that takes looking under the "hood" to see what you have). From there you can slowly start to convert your locomotives over time. Model Railroading spans a lot of different skills.
first let me say that everything in all your videos always makes sense but in my opinion this hobby has become a haven for electronic nerds What has made dcc popular is the loco mfg includes them in the loco (yes you can still purchase loco's that are standard dc but they are getting scarce) but dcc is for people that love electronics.Having to set up the loco with all the parameters is totally unnecessary then having to remember what assortment of numbers and letters to select just to turn on a light or blow a horn is insane Dcc is old technology time to use a simpler system radio control (which also is nothing new) but it's been working for years in model aircraft and cars and I only have to push a horn button or one that says light
Doesn't matter what makes up a cv, people just need to know what they are supposed to do. Cripes, just program the cv number and it's value. Some should stay with dc.
Thank you Larry excellent, this is the best Explanation of DCC and it‘s Advantages over DC ai have ever heard and is a must for all newcomers to the Hobby. Keep safe.
#5. If you want just mobile decoder, which I do mostly, is super cheap.
I personally tend to go with Athearn Blue Box locomotives, but I deal with some others. My latest locomotive I just got and put dcc, is an Athearn blue box Dash 9. Got it for $28 including shipping off Ebay. Put a digitrax 126D in it and upgraded the lights to LED with front and back. I also put ditch lights in it. The ditch lights don't blink and wired with front headlight. About an hour or less later and a total cost around $54. I had a really good running DCC loco with LED's. Now I get to repaint it to my freelance railroad.
If you want cheap basic dcc system Bachmann offers a basic but good system for around $160. I used to have one years ago. I now got a Digitrax Super Chief Xtra, bought it used and complete at a train show for $200.
Larry, in model railroading, like with a lot of other subjects, especially when the content gets technical, it’s very common to use acronyms. However, the users of those acronyms should repeatedly be aware of their habit, especially when communicating to audiences of whom their level of entry cannot be determined.
When I see your videos, I’m a happy viewer whenever you make the jargon accessible. To me that’s the main reason to watch your shows.
Your info is very informative and educational, and considering your use of appropriate jargon, there’s a lot of runarounds available in other videos of your hand. For which, as a rookie to dcc, am very grateful.
This is a great video! I started a DC build of a 10 by 14 layout. Was about 30 percent through building when I made the fateful decision to go DCC. There were some serious mistakes made because I was looking at the build without a lot of knowledge of DCC. This overview breaks it down into simple components. It tied knowledge gained together. Looking forward to getting back to the conversion and enjoying positive results
Larry, thank you for making everything so easy to understand, as ever a great Presentation, your Channel certainly offers the greatest help to Modellers who want to make the most of all the Advantages that DCC has to offer and I’d be lost without the comprehensive Videos that you’re regularly producing. Best Wishes and Keep safe.
Hi Larry, thanks for the myth-buster!
I run a DCC trackbus (x2) alongside DC accessories - well for now anyway. The former gave me sound and multiple trains, the latter used my existing wiring to power points, signals, lighting, etc. I guess I'll go the whole hog one day but happy enough for now.
As for the 'more expensive' issue, last year I sold off half of my loco stud and those kits that never get built, and that paid for my NCE starter system. All is going well still and I'm onto boosters and a second throttle already.
Cheers, Bob in UK
Larry: Yes! You can use DCC on a small layout. I'm using it on a 24"' x 48" N-gauge layout I've built as my training aid -- two locomotives, one RDC, and six turnouts. This is to help me learn both N-gauge and DCC and get me ready for a larger 36" x 78" layout.
Keep up the good work...from Larry (former Supervisor of Construction, Blue Ridge Traction, Power & Light)
Excellent video Larry you have laid to rest some common DCC myths.your explanation of how DCC works and it’s many advantages over DC was excellent.👍😁😁😁😁🇬🇧🚂
Larry. Thanks for this video. You asked about possible subject areas for the future. I'm very interested in how (and using what kit) it is possible to additional devices into a DCC layout. I have seen model house lights, crossing gates, smoke generators (for a model volcano in a scenery mountain!) street lights, sound effects (such as firestation bells), ski-lifts and on-loco solenoids for decoupling locos - all supposedly controlled via DCC. A roundup of how such "extras" work would be most welcome.
Thanks for making time to create this video. Its one I will be showing to my father n law who is getting into DCC for the first time. It would be very interesting to see DCC signal shown in a oscilloscope to better understand whats being put down the track. As I too was under the impression that DCC was 2 signals going down the track. The AC signal as the primary track power along with a Digital Signal to communicate with the decoder. As both AC and Digital can reside on the same wire.
I covered that previously discussing how the digital signal is part of DCC track power, maybe in the videos on DC vs DCC, but with almost 200 of them I have lost track of what I exactly said in each.
Awesome Presentation!! I have Loconet and NCE DCC systems. The NCE controls the trains and the Loconet is used for auxiliary monitors.
Great information, thanks LARRY.
Larry ,Thanks for your video on dcc. I am new to n scale and building a 83" by 42" layout with dcc digitrax dcs52. I live in a 3 bedroom apartment with a 1 car garage where I am building the layout . I have a table that folds up so I can move it into the guest bedroom which doubles as a guest bedroom and when we have guests I can put the train table in the closet. I really like your videos.
Vavel Wright
Good video. I consider myself an 'experienced' DCC user who is progressing into the 'advanced' level. Your video left me wanting you to do a review of techniques and products designed for cleaning locomotive wheels. I'm not just talking about using a Q-Tip on the wheels, but more like the 'treadmill' or electically powered devices you press onto the underside of the locomotive (IF they work). Also, I have many older HO steam locomotives that have power pickup on one side and tender pickup on the other side, so please talk about those in addition to diesel locomotives. If you have already done videos on this topic, I have to go back and look for them (but I wanted to type the comment while I was thinking about it). Thanks!
I've had a lot of success with the Tidy Track unit.
I don’t like the idea of using the metal brush wheel cleaners. First, you run the risk of removing any nickel plating that might be on the wheel tread if that was used. Second, and more important, you may create scratches on the tread which can attract more dirt, grease, and grime. I’ll come up with a video on my recommendations for improving electrical pickup, good suggestion!
Well done. My only problem with DCC is I have many old DC locos that I need to add decoders to. However I agree DCC is the way to go.
I too have drawers full of them, I guess eBay is going to be my solution and then buy new ones with decoders. I am really tired of painting the noses on those Southern E and F units!
Nice! Great Getting Back to Basics!!! Thanks
Quite useful, thank you, have a good Sunday.
Thank you for sharing. Very nice refresher course enjoyed. Try running a 5-unit power consist with just DC, I love DCC, well worth the money.
Thanks Larry for the review. 🐾🚂 BearCreek Model RR, KY.
Nice vid.
I actually got back into model railroading after several decades absence because of DCC. In my old HO days, constantly being frustrated trying to run locos at realistic speeds on brass rails using variable voltage control just did me in. With DCC, it seemed that technology had finally caught up with the hobby. A constant 15V across the N scale nickel silver rails with no need for electrically isolated blocks to run multiple trains seemed too good to be true. All the electronics I used to use to design power supplies to simulate inertia and momentum, now on a chip in the loco. And then I got my first loco with SOUND. Complicated? I'm still using a Bachmann EZ Command. DecoderPro on an old laptop with a Sprog 3 interface handles all the CV fiddling.
Very informative! Thanks Larry!
Larry,
Could you clarify what if anything needs to be electrically isolated from dcc track voltage when converting an old dc loco to dcc? For example: I have an old steam loco that uses a metal worm gear connected to one rail through gears. Can the worm gear remain electrically connected to a new can motor shaft? Does the new can motor case need to be isolated from the frame that is tied to one rail? The basics of this conversion is not obvious to me. Maybe you have covered this in another video?
I probably did in one of my brass conversions but that was a while ago. The motor has to be totally isolated to prevent shorts. In past work I have had to place a layer of electrical tape under motors to isolate them from the frame and then use a nylon screw to replace the original metal one. I have never seen one where a metal worm gear was part of the electrical pathway but nothing would surprise me. You may have to use a plastic or nylon gear to isolate the motor shaft although I can never remember having to do that. You could check the new motor and see if the shaft is isolated from the motor internally. I don’t recall ever having to replace a metal worm gear on a can motor so it may be that your old motor may have been specially designed for that type of wiring scheme.
Can DCC locomotives be run on a DC layout? And if it can, will the sound effects work?
Yes, as long as analog conversion is enabled. You will have a more limited speed control range but it should work fine, especially if it is a more recent decoder. However on e you out it back on a DCC layout I recommend turning analog conversion off. I discussed this in my recent video #199 on 5 ways to improve performance.
Just which you’re y and loop video if I understand correctly that you still have to use the rubber plastic Insulateders and on a dubble mainline crossover do you still have to use the insulareders
I have one Walthers double crossover on the Piedmont Southern and no insulators, they are built into the crossover. I am hoping they will start making these again as I need another but I have nit seen them in the new lineup-yet.
@@TheDCCGuy 👍t y
Good video Larry thanks for sharing Robert Guzman
Hi Larry, an excellent video. Thank you for spending the time to do it. I am not sure why, but for some reason closed captions were not available to me. I am hard of hearing and often turn on captions to better understand the terms or item names.
Sometimes UA-cam fails to provide closed captions for some unknown reason.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks for checking Larry. The next one I watched had them.
To the viewer who inspired this video: we all feel your pain. To put it simply, if you plan on running more than one loco at a time you MUST have DCC. Yes, it can be confusing. Larry has taught me so much - keep watching his videos and those of other experts.
Larry: part of the problem with programming CVs is that the various manuals are all pretty much terrible at describing how binary arithmetic works when setting the various bits in a field. Maybe an episode on that? Probably not enough to fill a whole episode but you might address it for a bit. Bit, ha. See what I did there?
In reality there no longer is any need to worry with bits and bytes, most throttle based programming systems take care of that for you. I haven’t worried with that in over a decade. And with DecoderPro you just click and go in mant cases or simply enter a decimal value. Even if it costs you a few bucks to buy a computer interface ti use DecorPro, it is usually much less than a loco and makes programming even complex CVs easy.
@@TheDCCGuy Cost to start using JRMI (Decoder Pro) is negligible compared to the hobby. For the cost of one or two rail cars, you can buy an Arduino and Motorshiled and install the code needed to run JRMI on it. There are videos on YT that show how to do it on the cheap. I built mine for about $40.
I'm new to DCC and found that after a few hours looking at the software and what it does, I can't imagine doing it any other way. Almost everything I would need to modify in a CV is handled in a programming page instead.
Thanks for sharing, I just got into dcc, can you make a video on reversing loops?
See video 197, that I did last week.
My response to those types of comments from a view like that is "Google is your friend" !
Amazing video Larry, thanks! I totally see the point of DCC being cheaper, in that if you are running a multi-block layout! Was going to do a DC/DCC combo layout, but will focus more towards full DCC and simply convert my old locomotives to DCC! Question, if you are running a track cleaner car, are there some types of cleaners that one must watch out for as these solutions could be conductive, or would this be more of a concern if the voltage was higher?
I use isopropyl alcohol in my cleaning car, I consider it about the safest you can choose. Avoid GooGone as it leaves a sticky residue and lighter fluid is too flammable. Really a damp cloth (with water) works well since most of what you want to remove is dirt and dust. Of course if you have been doing scenery without covering the track then you might need to get more aggressive, that’s when I pull out a bright boy.
Check out Ron’s trains and things, he just did a very in-depth tutorial on using non polar track cleaner and no ox rail treatment. This might finally be the answer to fewer cleaning sessions.
@@derekalexander4030 Thanks Derek! I didn't realize how 'dirty' rails can get from electrical micro arcing! Is NO-OX-ID plastic safe? I know that certain mineral spirits are bad for some plastics like ABS (some track ties?). I use use high quality Staedtler vinyl erasers to clean the track and then vacuum the tidbits after.
No Ox ID is a conductive GREASE designed for use in electrical connectors like wire nuts. I would not use it on rails or wheels as it will lubricate them. It also will leave a greasy film that will attract dirt and dust creating more gunk on your wheels. As for the polar vs non polar cleaner issue you need to think about what you are cleaning. Rails are in a very difference environment than electrical contacts inside a switch, or a motor, or other enclosed electrical device. While mineral spirits might be a good cleaner you need to be careful about selecting some others. For example some WD-40 formulations contain lubricants whereas others are cleaners which leave no residue. Wahl clipper oil has been offered up as a great choice for years but I would not want an oil film on my rails or wheels.
@@TheDCCGuy Hi Larry! Thanks for the clarification regarding OxID, it seemed a bit too good to be true! By plastic safe, I meant when you use it on metal tracks and some of the grease hits the ties, will it degrade the plastic over time? For now, I'll stick 99% IPA. Cheers! 👍👍
Thanks Larry for the timely video. You talked about dcc friendly. I am building my n scale layout using unitrack. Do you consider the turnouts dcc friendly?
I have never used it but Kato implies it is safe with DCC. The main issue are all those track connections which can lead to voltage drops over long runs if you don’t figure out some way to add track feeders.
If this was my channel I'd have just said, sorry buddy this channel is for people with brains and left it at that.
Great video, and I agree mine is a small layout and love dcc, question do they make a sound decoder for n scale with sound already on decoder, have hard wired old loco but thinking of installing sound in some drop in decoder types
Unfortunately I only know that SoundTraxx recently released one for a Kato model so I bet more will come. There may be others that I am not aware of yet. Your best bet is to get out your shoehorn and go with the SoundTraxx TSU-1100 and a sugar cube speaker. Finding space in a loco not specifically designed for a decoder is always a problem in N scale. Good luck 👍
ESU Loksound make sound decoders (their "Micro" range) that are 21mm x 10mm.
Can you please do an in-depth review of the TCS UWT-100 DCC controller? I know that you did a review of it for Model Railroader Magazine when it came out, but I never seen you do an in-depth review of the UWT-100 on your channel. Can you please do one maybe for your next video?
I’m holding off until I get the UWT-50 which is due out in July.
Thanks! That's awesome! Can't wait until you do it!!
Shorting track power/communication is more possible with DCC since that power/communication is continous... repeating occurances may "haywire" a decoder.
Finding a DC/DCC locomotive with >QSI< decoders were/are operable in both DC and DCC powerpacks. DC powerpacks with seperate direction switches allow for whistle and doppler effects when simply mastered, "braking squeal" when slowing down, and "low idle", also capable when mastered. These are simple frills with older DC powerpacks.
"Power-Routing" switches (Peco) are a wonderful invention when using straight DC power (when you know how to use them-which isn't very complicated) and can save you from additional wire and toggle hook-ups.
Using an MRC Tech VI is a wonderful beginners DC/DCC controller... a bonus when the matching hand-held is included (uses a CAT-5 cable), and allows Loco/Train #1-#6... avoiding specific locomotive numbers (albeit to remember which "train" is appointed those #1-#6.)
From age eight to 52... jumping into DCC locomotives in my early 40's and seeking DCC loco's by age 50... I still have DC locomotives because I will not totally convert. That MRC Tech VI is something I greatly recommend. It "easily" runs both (one at a time) at a touch of a button... and a couple of DPDT switches. Those QSI DC/DCC decoder locomotives are another treat when simply mastered.
By the way, I do still buy DC powered locomotives because I can "more readily" work on them without worry and power-test them with a good 9-Volt battery. MRC Tech VI button to standard DC power option, and away that DC locomotive rolls to put a train together!
ENJOY!
John BC, Canada
You talked about power and you said that all are AC power not ture ,The new digitrax command stations band boosters DC power input it says in the instructions they are DC only but it does not say it is on the box it won't be careful.
I think you misunderstood but if you will give me a specific time in the video that I made that statement I will check it and confirm that. First though there are two things to consider: (1) older systems could use DC or AC as the power supply to the command station and boosters, and (2) track power is neither AC or DC bit instead is DCC. So I think you misunderstood the distinctions I was making on that point.
Yes, DCC is AC. It's just square wave AC, where the data is also the track power.
It does have a variable frequency essentially, which is where the confusion comes from.
That is all on NCE doing a HORRIBLE job at explaining what is what when it comes to DCC. The Digitrax starter manual from the Zephyer Express explains EVERYTHING and does it very well.
DCC is expensive in starting out, the upfront costs are...high, depending on how many locomotives you want to start out with DCC. With starter sets, and a few decoders will set you back about $300-$400 (Command station+decoders). There is no need to convert your ENTIRE fleet right from the start, but getting a command station and picking 5 of your locomotives (that are DCC ready, and that takes looking under the "hood" to see what you have). From there you can slowly start to convert your locomotives over time.
Model Railroading spans a lot of different skills.
Roco DDC is nice.
👍👍👍👍
first let me say that everything in all your videos always makes sense but in my opinion this hobby has become a haven for electronic nerds What has made dcc popular is the loco mfg includes them in the loco (yes you can still purchase loco's that are standard dc but they are getting scarce) but dcc is for people that love electronics.Having to set up the loco with all the parameters is totally unnecessary then having to remember what assortment of numbers and letters to select just to turn on a light or blow a horn is insane Dcc is old technology time to use a simpler system radio control (which also is nothing new) but it's been working for years in model aircraft and cars and I only have to push a horn button or one that says light
ABSOLUTELY!
What this guy has never heard of google? This guy must be so helpless he needs somebody to help him dress himself in the mornings.
Doesn't matter what makes up a cv, people just need to know what they are supposed to do. Cripes, just program the cv number and it's value. Some should stay with dc.