I'm about to do this same thing on my old 5.1 Receiver . I pre-amp out my 4 ceiling speakers and let the old boy do some work. But those pin type binding posts...bothering me for years. Nice video! Sort of gave me a mental checklist.
Nicely done. A great mod getting away from those terrible old-style terminals. I was shouting at you about the colour layout during the build but you didn't hear me. In my 50 years working with audio and video I've always known the negative terminals to be "inboard" of the positive terminals (unless the terminals are stacked vertically). I've subscribed. Edit:- Just noticed on your rewiring video the Parasound component looks the other way around!
This is a really cool idea. I hate those old push pin connectors. It would be interesting to do something similar with the hardwired power cord as well. Though I suspect it would require modding the power supply and isn't worth the effort.
@@sk9592 Well if your amp is vintage, it's most likely going to be bad also unless it's refurbished (caps replaced etc). And changing the terminals will not improve the sound.
@Munakas-wq3gp Lol dude, did you watch the video? No one is saying it will improve the sound. He's just doing it for convenience. This is like saying you shouldn't bother replacing the tires on a 15 year old car because new cars are better.
Like minds think alike, been on my mind for years, just never got the chance to do it. I would have marked everything before cutting and drilling the aluminum. Makes it easier to clamp without damage to the sides of the piece you are using. Just my two cents. Old carpenter and hifi nut.
I like this and will probably do it on an older stereo system I found at an estate sale. One question, from older connections/connectors to the new one, did you notice any improvements with the sound quality?
Depends which brand cables and terminals you use and to some extent, how much you spend.. However, to reach that point you must be a proven elite and gifted audiophile
While this is a good idea, there are some points that compromise the new connectors. Firstly, they are screwed together. A one piece leading copper lead with a surface treating and no nuts to tighten, will perform better. Both mechanically and sonically. In this case, I would probably have undone the soldering flange and the nut and tossed them away. Then I would have drilled a hole through the rod and soldered into that. I just changed the terminal on my 30 year old Copland amp, and that, I can guarantee you, was a sonic improvement. What it does is a better connection, also to the gauge of the wire. If you can imagine the this wire from before, only touching a many decade old clip, which is also dirty, the connection is just bad. The current have very little and dirty surface area to move through. Next point, which is also valid on almost all modern cables and connectors of today, is the idea of pinching strands of wire with screws, thinking it makes a good connection. Well, it does not. If you have say 200 thin strands in the wire, the contact point between them are minimal. Therefore you need to solder your cables in both ends. Also using proper flux to clean the contact area(-s) and secure proper clean soldering, as well as actually using the MUCH bigger area for the current. Very few, including companies do this. But that is the proper way. Kind regards.
Nice getting rid of those nasty vintage post connectors! Just one comment - did you vacuum out the filings from the case? It's the only thing that struck me as undesirable in this upgrade. All the best, Rob in Switzerland.
While this is a good idea, there are some points that compromise the new connectors. Firstly, they are screwed together. A one piece leading copper lead with a surface treating and no nuts to tighten, will perform better. Both mechanically and sonically. Next is the brass that yours are probably made of, which have a terrible conducting property. Get copper mixed with tellurium which hardens the copper, and only loose 2-3% conductivity relativer to pure copper. Silver on the outside enhanced this again. In this case, I would probably have undone the soldering flange and the nut and tossed them away. Then I would have drilled a hole through the rod and soldered into that. I just changed the terminal on my 30 year old Copland amp, and that, I can guarantee you, was a sonic improvement. Less mud in the sound - a cleaner sound with a little more detail.. Not much, but there. What it does is a better connection, also to the gauge of the wire. If you can imagine the this wire from before, only touching a many decade old clip, which is also dirty, the connection is just bad. The current have very little and dirty surface area to move through. Next point, which is also valid on almost all modern cables and connectors of today, is the idea of pinching strands of wire with screws, thinking it makes a good connection. Well, it does not. it's just as bad as bare strands clipped into the old style flipping plate connector. You may be remembering black strands, black connector etc, from the old days. Well, that's what is happening. Same with the modern connection, if NOT done properly. If you have say 200 thin strands in the wire, the contact point between them are minimal. Therefore you need to solder your cables in both ends. Also using proper flux to clean the contact area(-s) and secure proper clean soldering, as well as actually using the MUCH bigger area for the current. Further, any area exposed to air, should be covered in say an acid free silicone sealant, to prevent future corrosion. Many modern connectors, also expensive ones, are not well executed, with lots of small parts assembly, open for bad future connection, corrosion, loosing up and what not. Also, take a look at the quality of a current leading alloy or metal. Brass is often used, and is bad. Copper is better, Silver is the best. Silver plated copper with a bit of beryllium is very good. All these big clear plastic parts are good for turning knobs as in not carrying current, but bad for not being able to be surface treat the current leading metal beneath, which will then corrode. So, take a good look at stuff and do it properly. Very few, including companies do this. But that is the proper way. Kind regards.
No changing the bind posts will not improve the sound quality it just makes connecting wires and cables much easier especially if you have multiple cables or speakers you want to test out
it wasn't about getting thicker gauge in, that's just added benefit. It was about being able to quick connect any type and size speaker wires and cables with and type of termination.
Why would you upgrade binding posts to a cheap amp? Get a better one, the posts aren't going to improve the sound! And even doubling the amp price will hardly get any improvement.
because it wasn't about getting better sound. because you wont get better sound. it was about being able to use thick gauge wire and banana plugs. This series of Pioneer amps from the late 1970's were peak hi-fi during the stereo wars of that time. This receiver is for my 2 channel vinyl setup. Not my home cinema. It sounds incredible .
@@The.Home.Cinema.Engineer The 70's Pioneers used a proprietary speaker connect shared with Akai and some other brands. These spring loaded connects are more of a thing of 80's. I owned a legacy Pioneer SX-727 tuner and it was a pain to find the speaker connectors.
I'm about to do this same thing on my old 5.1 Receiver . I pre-amp out my 4 ceiling speakers and let the old boy do some work. But those pin type binding posts...bothering me for years.
Nice video! Sort of gave me a mental checklist.
Nicely done. A great mod getting away from those terrible old-style terminals. I was shouting at you about the colour layout during the build but you didn't hear me. In my 50 years working with audio and video I've always known the negative terminals to be "inboard" of the positive terminals (unless the terminals are stacked vertically).
I've subscribed.
Edit:- Just noticed on your rewiring video the Parasound component looks the other way around!
Good job. Looks clean and up to date.
Cool upgrade. Looks good!
Awesome vid. Thanks!
This is a really cool idea. I hate those old push pin connectors. It would be interesting to do something similar with the hardwired power cord as well. Though I suspect it would require modding the power supply and isn't worth the effort.
in most case it would be simple because the ground wire in a power cable is just connected to the chassis ground
If your amp has push pin connectors it means that it's very cheaply made and makes zero sense to upgrade the posts. The entire amp is just cheap.
@Munakas-wq3gp Not really. If you're using a vintage amplifier, push pin connectors were the standard back then.
@@sk9592 Well if your amp is vintage, it's most likely going to be bad also unless it's refurbished (caps replaced etc). And changing the terminals will not improve the sound.
@Munakas-wq3gp Lol dude, did you watch the video? No one is saying it will improve the sound. He's just doing it for convenience. This is like saying you shouldn't bother replacing the tires on a 15 year old car because new cars are better.
Nice job. I remember those old connectors-still hate them.
Thank you for this.
no problem Thanks for watching!
You can buy banana plugs with about an inch of Braided speaker wire sticking out of them that you put into the old spring clips
yes an ok fix to a permanent problem with those old style speaker clips
Like minds think alike, been on my mind for years, just never got the chance to do it.
I would have marked everything before cutting and drilling the aluminum. Makes it easier to clamp without damage to the sides of the piece you are using. Just my two cents.
Old carpenter and hifi nut.
They sell banana plugs already plated and ready to fit and screw in / inexpensive.
I like this and will probably do it on an older stereo system I found at an estate sale. One question, from older connections/connectors to the new one, did you notice any improvements with the sound quality?
No you wont notice any difference in sound quality just the ability to use any type of speaker wire or cable and easily swap out for others
@@The.Home.Cinema.Engineer OK, thank you.
Depends which brand cables and terminals you use and to some extent, how much you spend..
However, to reach that point you must be a proven elite and gifted audiophile
While this is a good idea, there are some points that compromise the new connectors. Firstly, they are screwed together. A one piece leading copper lead with a surface treating and no nuts to tighten, will perform better. Both mechanically and sonically. In this case, I would probably have undone the soldering flange and the nut and tossed them away. Then I would have drilled a hole through the rod and soldered into that. I just changed the terminal on my 30 year old Copland amp, and that, I can guarantee you, was a sonic improvement. What it does is a better connection, also to the gauge of the wire. If you can imagine the this wire from before, only touching a many decade old clip, which is also dirty, the connection is just bad. The current have very little and dirty surface area to move through.
Next point, which is also valid on almost all modern cables and connectors of today, is the idea of pinching strands of wire with screws, thinking it makes a good connection. Well, it does not. If you have say 200 thin strands in the wire, the contact point between them are minimal. Therefore you need to solder your cables in both ends. Also using proper flux to clean the contact area(-s) and secure proper clean soldering, as well as actually using the MUCH bigger area for the current.
Very few, including companies do this. But that is the proper way.
Kind regards.
Nice getting rid of those nasty vintage post connectors! Just one comment - did you vacuum out the filings from the case? It's the only thing that struck me as undesirable in this upgrade. All the best, Rob in Switzerland.
yes I was sure to vacuum the filings. thanks for watching!
You have kitty!! I love kitty #likedvideo
May I ask which speakers you are using? :)
@@vloc88 they are the KEF iQ90
Wire Farrels
While this is a good idea, there are some points that compromise the new connectors. Firstly, they are screwed together. A one piece leading copper lead with a surface treating and no nuts to tighten, will perform better. Both mechanically and sonically.
Next is the brass that yours are probably made of, which have a terrible conducting property. Get copper mixed with tellurium which hardens the copper, and only loose 2-3% conductivity relativer to pure copper. Silver on the outside enhanced this again.
In this case, I would probably have undone the soldering flange and the nut and tossed them away. Then I would have drilled a hole through the rod and soldered into that. I just changed the terminal on my 30 year old Copland amp, and that, I can guarantee you, was a sonic improvement. Less mud in the sound - a cleaner sound with a little more detail.. Not much, but there. What it does is a better connection, also to the gauge of the wire. If you can imagine the this wire from before, only touching a many decade old clip, which is also dirty, the connection is just bad. The current have very little and dirty surface area to move through.
Next point, which is also valid on almost all modern cables and connectors of today, is the idea of pinching strands of wire with screws, thinking it makes a good connection. Well, it does not. it's just as bad as bare strands clipped into the old style flipping plate connector. You may be remembering black strands, black connector etc, from the old days. Well, that's what is happening. Same with the modern connection, if NOT done properly.
If you have say 200 thin strands in the wire, the contact point between them are minimal. Therefore you need to solder your cables in both ends. Also using proper flux to clean the contact area(-s) and secure proper clean soldering, as well as actually using the MUCH bigger area for the current.
Further, any area exposed to air, should be covered in say an acid free silicone sealant, to prevent future corrosion.
Many modern connectors, also expensive ones, are not well executed, with lots of small parts assembly, open for bad future connection, corrosion, loosing up and what not. Also, take a look at the quality of a current leading alloy or metal. Brass is often used, and is bad. Copper is better, Silver is the best. Silver plated copper with a bit of beryllium is very good. All these big clear plastic parts are good for turning knobs as in not carrying current, but bad for not being able to be surface treat the current leading metal beneath, which will then corrode.
So, take a good look at stuff and do it properly.
Very few, including companies do this. But that is the proper way.
Kind regards.
You must hear a better quality of sound or detail or space do you not?
No changing the bind posts will not improve the sound quality it just makes connecting wires and cables much easier especially if you have multiple cables or speakers you want to test out
If you were a real "engineer" you would know that 16 gage is all you need for 100 feet. BYE
it wasn't about getting thicker gauge in, that's just added benefit. It was about being able to quick connect any type and size speaker wires and cables with and type of termination.
Why would you upgrade binding posts to a cheap amp? Get a better one, the posts aren't going to improve the sound! And even doubling the amp price will hardly get any improvement.
because it wasn't about getting better sound. because you wont get better sound. it was about being able to use thick gauge wire and banana plugs. This series of Pioneer amps from the late 1970's were peak hi-fi during the stereo wars of that time. This receiver is for my 2 channel vinyl setup. Not my home cinema. It sounds incredible .
@@The.Home.Cinema.Engineer The 70's Pioneers used a proprietary speaker connect shared with Akai and some other brands. These spring loaded connects are more of a thing of 80's. I owned a legacy Pioneer SX-727 tuner and it was a pain to find the speaker connectors.
Also,
These get loose and wear out and why replace a $1000 receiver when the only thing wrong is a $0.20 part?
@@microbiologycory10 I've had dozens of vintage amps and none of them had loose or worn out speaker posts 🤣
@ OK. I’ve got one right now.