I think I've commented on this before Mike, but I had to do so again. Thank you SO MUCH for your help in putting these trucks into the ACes. It works on other modern diesels as well. I was putting the cap and drive shaft into the loco before anything else, and it still didn't solve my problems. Doing it your way was really much better, and the tip about preventing the truck from falling out in the first place has also come in handy. Take care. Andy
I have to give you a HUGE thank you for this video! I had my Kato UP loco derail and fall off of my layout onto the floor. The front truck assembly blew up on impact. This video got me back in action in quick fashion! Thanks!!!!!
See why you're my go to guy? I just got this locomotive 30 min ago and the rear truck fell out. I search it and you not only have the solution but have been nice enough to create a video for it. I'd figured that was the problem, but I was worried about bending those clips at all. Now I see I can, but carefully. I owe you many beers. It's the dark green and yellow Erie model and I've been looking forward to getting it all week. When the truck fell out it was pretty disappointing. I just fixed it and I can't overstate the joy you've given me. Thank you so much Mike!
Mike this is a great video and timely for me. The back truck on a locomotive of mine fell off and for the life of me could not get it back together! After watching your video I was able to install the truck and have it run like a champ.
Thanks for this video, Mike! It is very helpful because I had this very problem with the one and only Kato SD70ACe I have bought so far. One of the trucks fell out the first time I took the diesel out of the box. The housing stayed attached to the truck, but in trying to get the truck to stay in the diesel, I lost the drive shaft. Without a drive shaft in that one truck, the diesel barely moved on the track. Eventually, I figured this out and ordered a drive shaft from Kato, but when I got it, I had trouble figuring out how to properly install it into the flywheel. Through sheer luck, I installed it correctly in time, and now the diesel runs perfectly. But if I had had your video back then, I would've known exactly what to do. I understand a lot of guys have had problems with their SD70ACe trucks falling out - I hope Kato will eventually solves this. Thanks again for this video - it's a keeper. ...Roy
Thanks for your video. I have several Kato locos that I think are great. I recently received a slightly used SD70ACe that seemed to be a bit of a dud, not living up to the expectations I had. Your video has helped me work out some of it's issues. I started poking around the loco because when I first opened the box after receiving it, one of the trucks fell off. It also had derailing problems, and was only picking up power from one of the trucks. I thought I had it figured out, but seeing your video makes things much clearer. Now I get reliably contact from both the truck to the contact strips,and it's not derailing. Finding the clear washer on the floor... yeah that was no fun when a drive shat fell out. I was careful after that to work over a table. The tabs holding the worm gear cap to the frame hold it so well. To remove the gear caps from the loco my frame needs to be split. Previously, I wasn't doing that, leaving the caps in place, and getting the contacts to sit properly was difficult. I could see when the plastic nub was blocking it, and would work to get the contact line up. Assembling the gear cap on the truck before attaching the truck assembly to the frame is a much more reliably way of getting the contact set up properly. I had a look at the center axle in the trucks and noticed one of them was sitting a bit low. The metal pickups on that side were not sitting properly, and had to be pushed back into place. In your video, I noticed that the ends of the long contact strips sit below the frame (when sitting on the rails). My SD70ACe had the ends of the long strips sitting above that part of the frame. That didn't seem right to me, but it did seem to operate OK. They are now positioned as in your video, and the loco is working well. The last problem was that when I install the body, the LED board stops making contact and the loco didn't run. There is a rectangular plastic piece that sits under the LED board that I had to re-position to make sure the LED board was always snug. After doing all those little fixes, the loco is working great. It went from not being able to go around half a circle without derailing, and getting hung up on switches, to now being able to go lap after lap reliably. Thanks again for posting your helpful video!
Great video Mike. Bought a second hand loco today and sure enough the rear truck fell out of the loco as I pulled it out of the box. Your video made it a 60 second repair. Thanks.
I just got this engine in the mail...put it on the track and the truck just plops out! Now I understand how it works and can reassemble it! Thanks so much!
Very good explained Mike.Had that problem with my SD40-2.Both metal pick up strips were out of place.As you said ,wiggle it in place and all is good.Never had any issues again with that loco.
Wow! I wish other You Tuber's would pay attention to focus and other details like Mike Fifer does. Another extremely useful instruction video. Keep it up, Sir!
Thank you Mike. I've not had this issue, but now know what to do if I encounter this problem. Thank you for taking the time to create these instructional videos.
The bushings on my CSX 4831 176-8421 are metal instead of plastic. I discovered this after a 'hand of God' derailment tossing the locomotive into a canyon approximately 720 scale feet deep.. Luckily the local flora in the 'canyon' was deep enough to cushion the blow. The crew actually survived and other than the impact blowing the trucks and gearing clear off the locomotive there was little actual damage. The maintenance department was lightning quick rebuilding the locomotive and 4831 departed on a late peddlers load this evening.
My Kato Ace's truck melted. I opened it up, and the drive shaft and truck assembly on the front truck had completely melted. This was all because of just running for a few mins on my club's T-Trak layout. It was broken in and stuff. The Kato guy I talked to (this was at WGH) was super nice and helped out, but said to send it in. I did so and I'm currently awaiting the repaired model. I'm expecting a month or so. But if this happens to you, I'd contact KATO. They are super nice and understanding (KATO says it's a common issue), and they'll repair it free of charge. However, if you want to avoid a pain like this, you might want to consider Fox Valley. That said, I haven't dealt with Fox before.
+judahrice The melting only occurs when the locomotive sits on s short circuit for an extended period of time. They need a better circuit breaker. Mike
jeff lizotte 3 hours ago · LINKED COMMENT Thank you Mike, haven't had that problem with Kato product ,but if it ever happens,this is good to know.Is the ES 44 ac the same? No they have a different styled truck. Mike
Mike,thanks for your video. I have a Kato SD-70M with similar issues. I also noticed there are no place for screws holding the two halves of the metal frame together. I tried snapping the trucks into the hole in the metal frame but it doesnt stay together. Am I missing something ? Thanks, Ron.
super helpful tip my n scale kato loco fell hit the floor the truck popped out put it back did not look rite that brass tab was under the grey tab thanks.
Thanks Mike. Would this method of removing and reinstalling the truck work the same way for the SDP40F? I am new to Kato and am nervous of destroying what for me is an expensive loco. Greetings from Portugal and many thanks for the efforts that you make to ensure everything is in focus.
+stanley m Thanks Stan , If a joint is uneven you may have put the rail on top of the joiner and not in it. The small unevenness is no big deal and usually a thumb push will fix it. I use a Tomix Vacuum car for vacuuming and a CMX with 91% alcohol to do the rest and once a year a centerline car with Rail Zip.
HOWDY MIKE. I HAVE AN ISSUE WITH MY KATO ACE THE FRONT TRUCK WILL DERAIL ON A TURN. IF I RUN IN REVERSE THERE SEEMS TO BE NO ISSUE. COULD THIS BE AN ISSUE WITH THE PICK UP TAB YOU MENTIONED AND SUSPENSION? ALSO THERE SEEMS TO BE A LOT OF BOUNCE IN THAT TRUCK. THANKS FOR ANY INFO.
Mike - this is great for most of my ‘more modern’ locos :) Thank you!! However, I need some help on how to reassemble the trucks on a Atlas/Kato Alco RS-1 (4 axle split metal frame trucks). Do you have a video that shows that?
@@N-Scale no worries - literally overnight, your videos have already rescued one of my other locomotives that I was almost ready to give up on. Tons of lint, go figure! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience through your channel! The way you explain loco maintenance really helped.
Hey Mike I wanted to Add: I know that Tab you Said can be Bent at it has some Give but if was to Give way and Break, are the Replacements pretty reasonable in Price to take the place of the Broken one.. I haven't Looked on KATO's Site but can and Do you sell them as Well Mike.. If a customer needs one as a Replacement or one as and Extra Part..
It is cheaper to buy parts directly from Kato. I do have some Kato parts but do not stock all of them. The part is Delrin and it is HIGHLY unlikely it would break without dropping the loco. Thanks , Mike
I have a question , my housing wont come out. The housing didn't come out just the bogie and I'm wondering how to safely get the housing off as I am working with a $150 The spirit union pacific engine.
Thanks Mike. So this is similar to the used Kato SD40-2 of mine you just fixed? The bushing was missing when someone before me took it apart or it fell out?
great video! question: I have a plastic gear that is pretty chewed up - it is the one that makes contact with the worm gear. how does this happen? can I just buy these plastic gears? thanks for your help/advice! or do i need to buy a new truck (15$ from kato)
@@N-Scale thanks for your prompt reply Mike! while the train was running, i could hear a slight screeching sound, and it kept derailing...I checked UA-cam and found your video to clean the truck...that is when I noticed the gear that engages with the worm was a little bit chewed up...no debris on the worm...perhaps someone dropped the engine ? or what else could have caused this? thanks again, your videos are VERY helpful!!!
hi Mike... great info but i have a question... i have an sd70ace i have had that same problem but i also have a second problem .. i noticed that the last 2 ace's that i purchased when going in reverse they make a clicking noise.. do you know what would be causing that??? could it be related to the trucks falling out???.. any help would be appreciated... vinny
+bnsf6951 It sounds to me like they may have had the tower put back together without the end bushing I mentioned ( that usually gets lost when the cap comes off) Mike
I have a problem right out of the box brand new with kato n scale engine simular to the one ur showing is it a very noisy engine when running on the track. Like a grinding winding noise which get louder when speed increases
@@N-Scale is it a switcher? I am new to this ... its a Kato N Scale SD70ACe Union Pacific UP Our People #1111 DCC Ready and i didnt do anything to it other then place it on the track: ua-cam.com/video/y679-u8y7Dw/v-deo.html
Kato need to build these on the older frame, the new frame is too light and bogie design is prone to failure because the worm moves around in the cap to much
I think I've commented on this before Mike, but I had to do so again. Thank you SO MUCH for your help in putting these trucks into the ACes. It works on other modern diesels as well. I was putting the cap and drive shaft into the loco before anything else, and it still didn't solve my problems. Doing it your way was really much better, and the tip about preventing the truck from falling out in the first place has also come in handy. Take care. Andy
Thanks so much Andy !!
I have to give you a HUGE thank you for this video! I had my Kato UP loco derail and fall off of my layout onto the floor. The front truck assembly blew up on impact. This video got me back in action in quick fashion! Thanks!!!!!
Thanks Kevin , Glad to help !!!
See why you're my go to guy? I just got this locomotive 30 min ago and the rear truck fell out. I search it and you not only have the solution but have been nice enough to create a video for it. I'd figured that was the problem, but I was worried about bending those clips at all. Now I see I can, but carefully. I owe you many beers. It's the dark green and yellow Erie model and I've been looking forward to getting it all week. When the truck fell out it was pretty disappointing. I just fixed it and I can't overstate the joy you've given me. Thank you so much Mike!
Thanks so much Charles.
Mike
Mike this is a great video and timely for me. The back truck on a locomotive of mine fell off and for the life of me could not get it back together! After watching your video I was able to install the truck and have it run like a champ.
Glad to help.
Mike
Thanks so much, Mike...this video helped me make the repair in under five minutes.
Glad to help Dave.
Mike
Thanks for this video, Mike! It is very helpful because I had this very problem with the one and only Kato SD70ACe I have bought so far. One of the trucks fell out the first time I took the diesel out of the box. The housing stayed attached to the truck, but in trying to get the truck to stay in the diesel, I lost the drive shaft. Without a drive shaft in that one truck, the diesel barely moved on the track. Eventually, I figured this out and ordered a drive shaft from Kato, but when I got it, I had trouble figuring out how to properly install it into the flywheel. Through sheer luck, I installed it correctly in time, and now the diesel runs perfectly. But if I had had your video back then, I would've known exactly what to do. I understand a lot of guys have had problems with their SD70ACe trucks falling out - I hope Kato will eventually solves this. Thanks again for this video - it's a keeper. ...Roy
+N-Scale Union Pacific Evanston Subdivision Thanks Roy, In today's scope of things , this truck issue is minor.
Thanks , Mike
Thanks for your video. I have several Kato locos that I think are great. I recently received a slightly used SD70ACe that seemed to be a bit of a dud, not living up to the expectations I had. Your video has helped me work out some of it's issues.
I started poking around the loco because when I first opened the box after receiving it, one of the trucks fell off. It also had derailing problems, and was only picking up power from one of the trucks. I thought I had it figured out, but seeing your video makes things much clearer. Now I get reliably contact from both the truck to the contact strips,and it's not derailing.
Finding the clear washer on the floor... yeah that was no fun when a drive shat fell out. I was careful after that to work over a table.
The tabs holding the worm gear cap to the frame hold it so well. To remove the gear caps from the loco my frame needs to be split. Previously, I wasn't doing that, leaving the caps in place, and getting the contacts to sit properly was difficult. I could see when the plastic nub was blocking it, and would work to get the contact line up. Assembling the gear cap on the truck before attaching the truck assembly to the frame is a much more reliably way of getting the contact set up properly.
I had a look at the center axle in the trucks and noticed one of them was sitting a bit low. The metal pickups on that side were not sitting properly, and had to be pushed back into place.
In your video, I noticed that the ends of the long contact strips sit below the frame (when sitting on the rails). My SD70ACe had the ends of the long strips sitting above that part of the frame. That didn't seem right to me, but it did seem to operate OK. They are now positioned as in your video, and the loco is working well.
The last problem was that when I install the body, the LED board stops making contact and the loco didn't run. There is a rectangular plastic piece that sits under the LED board that I had to re-position to make sure the LED board was always snug.
After doing all those little fixes, the loco is working great. It went from not being able to go around half a circle without derailing, and getting hung up on switches, to now being able to go lap after lap reliably.
Thanks again for posting your helpful video!
You are welcome and you had ALL of the symtoms !!
Great video Mike. Bought a second hand loco today and sure enough the rear truck fell out of the loco as I pulled it out of the box. Your video made it a 60 second repair. Thanks.
Thank you very much Sir. You are the real Teacher !!!
Thank you so much.
Mike
Thanks Mike, 2nd hand BNSF SD70Ace running perfectly now, almost bought a new truck but your video saved me a few dollars
Thanks and glad to help.
Mike
Thanks Mike! Great video.
No Problem Ernest.
Mike
I just got this engine in the mail...put it on the track and the truck just plops out! Now I understand how it works and can reassemble it! Thanks so much!
Thanks Bruce , Mike
Very good explained Mike.Had that problem with my SD40-2.Both metal pick up strips were out of place.As you said ,wiggle it in place and all is good.Never had any issues again with that loco.
+Carsten Alwes Thanks Carsten , Mike
This is one of your best close up videos yet.
+Roy Maynard Thanks Roy, It was hard to tell what I was getting on the cameras screen but I am pretty happy with it.
Thanks , Mike
Wow! I wish other You Tuber's would pay attention to focus and other details like Mike Fifer does. Another extremely useful instruction video. Keep it up, Sir!
Thank you very much Jim.
Mike
Mike, you're a lifesaver! This video saved hours of frustration. Thanks for the post.
Thanks Randy !!!
Thank you Mike. I've not had this issue, but now know what to do if I encounter this problem. Thank you for taking the time to create these instructional videos.
+RWSBaden Thanks . Most did not have any issues.
Mike
Thanks Mike, my truck fell out and I had the knowledge to but everything back together again because of your great video.
Hi Mike, thank you for posting this. I'm just getting into US N and would like one of these locomotives. This is really useful information.
Thanks Michael , glad to help.
Mike
Mike, thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. Much appreciated.
+Jeff Bowman Thanks Jeff. I have fun doing it.
Mike
Excellent video, Mike.Useful information, well presented! Thanks.
+tombensky Thanks Tom , I am trying to save some guys the frustration of loosing some parts on these guys.
Mike
The bushings on my CSX 4831 176-8421 are metal instead of plastic. I discovered this after a 'hand of God' derailment tossing the locomotive into a canyon approximately 720 scale feet deep.. Luckily the local flora in the 'canyon' was deep enough to cushion the blow. The crew actually survived and other than the impact blowing the trucks and gearing clear off the locomotive there was little actual damage. The maintenance department was lightning quick rebuilding the locomotive and 4831 departed on a late peddlers load this evening.
+Brandon Salyer That is a good thing !!!
Mike
+Brandon Salyer ouch. Glad the loco is okay!
My Kato Ace's truck melted. I opened it up, and the drive shaft and truck assembly on the front truck had completely melted. This was all because of just running for a few mins on my club's T-Trak layout. It was broken in and stuff. The Kato guy I talked to (this was at WGH) was super nice and helped out, but said to send it in. I did so and I'm currently awaiting the repaired model. I'm expecting a month or so. But if this happens to you, I'd contact KATO. They are super nice and understanding (KATO says it's a common issue), and they'll repair it free of charge. However, if you want to avoid a pain like this, you might want to consider Fox Valley. That said, I haven't dealt with Fox before.
+judahrice The melting only occurs when the locomotive sits on s short circuit for an extended period of time. They need a better circuit breaker.
Mike
I did lose one a while back but never fixed it. Maybe able now to do that . Nice informative post.
Thanks Mark , Mike
Thank you so much this helped me fix my ace!!
Glad to help.
Mike
jeff lizotte 3 hours ago · LINKED COMMENT
Thank you Mike, haven't had that problem with Kato product ,but if it ever happens,this is good to know.Is the ES 44 ac the same?
No they have a different styled truck.
Mike
Thanks for a great tutorial.
Glad to help !
Very helpful tips Mike for this problem !
Mike,thanks for your video. I have a Kato SD-70M with similar issues. I also noticed there are no place for screws holding the two halves of the metal frame together. I tried snapping the trucks into the hole in the metal frame but it doesnt stay together. Am I missing something ? Thanks, Ron.
Not sure unless it is going into the wrong plce in the frame OR one of the retention tabs is broken off.
Mike
Great how to Mike. Thanks for the in depth info.
+Peter CPRail8748 Thanks so much Peter.
Mike
super helpful tip my n scale kato loco fell hit the floor the truck popped out put it back did not look rite that brass tab was under the grey tab thanks.
Thanks Mike , Mike
Thanks Mike. Would this method of removing and reinstalling the truck work the same way for the SDP40F? I am new to Kato and am nervous of destroying what for me is an expensive loco. Greetings from Portugal and many thanks for the efforts that you make to ensure everything is in focus.
I think so. Thanks , Mike
Love it Mr. Mike.. always good videos..
+akr3985fan Thanks buddy , Mike
Love the kato track, but how do you eliminate uneven joint connection without soldering and what is the best way to clean track and what products
+stanley m Thanks Stan , If a joint is uneven you may have put the rail on top of the joiner and not in it. The small unevenness is no big deal and usually a thumb push will fix it. I use a Tomix Vacuum car for vacuuming and a CMX with 91% alcohol to do the rest and once a year a centerline car with Rail Zip.
HOWDY MIKE. I HAVE AN ISSUE WITH MY KATO ACE THE FRONT TRUCK WILL DERAIL ON A TURN. IF I RUN IN REVERSE THERE SEEMS TO BE NO ISSUE. COULD THIS BE AN ISSUE WITH THE PICK UP TAB YOU MENTIONED AND SUSPENSION? ALSO THERE SEEMS TO BE A LOT OF BOUNCE IN THAT TRUCK. THANKS FOR ANY INFO.
Mike - this is great for most of my ‘more modern’ locos :) Thank you!! However, I need some help on how to reassemble the trucks on a Atlas/Kato Alco RS-1 (4 axle split metal frame trucks). Do you have a video that shows that?
No I do not sorry.
Mike
@@N-Scale since the side frames are metal, is this maybe an exception where actual lubricant is recommended?
@@davelewisohio The loco is extreamly old , and I am not sure.
Mike
@@N-Scale no worries - literally overnight, your videos have already rescued one of my other locomotives that I was almost ready to give up on. Tons of lint, go figure! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience through your channel! The way you explain loco maintenance really helped.
@@davelewisohio Thanks Dave , Mike
Hey Mike I wanted to Add: I know that Tab you Said can be Bent at it has some Give but if was to Give way and Break, are the Replacements pretty reasonable in Price to take the place of the Broken one.. I haven't Looked on KATO's Site but can and Do you sell them as Well Mike.. If a customer needs one as a Replacement or one as and Extra Part..
It is cheaper to buy parts directly from Kato. I do have some Kato parts but do not stock all of them. The part is Delrin and it is HIGHLY unlikely it would break without dropping the loco.
Thanks , Mike
I have a question , my housing wont come out. The housing didn't come out just the bogie and I'm wondering how to safely get the housing off as I am working with a $150 The spirit union pacific engine.
Small screw driver and lightly pry on one side and work it out.
Mike
Thanks, That worked.@@N-Scale
Thanks Mike. So this is similar to the used Kato SD40-2 of mine you just fixed? The bushing was missing when someone before me took it apart or it fell out?
In yours , the bearing was still there.
Mike
great video! question: I have a plastic gear that is pretty chewed up - it is the one that makes contact with the worm gear. how does this happen? can I just buy these plastic gears? thanks for your help/advice! or do i need to buy a new truck (15$ from kato)
If the gear is chewed up the truck had been installed wrong.
You will need a new truck.
Mike
@@N-Scale thanks for your prompt reply Mike! while the train was running, i could hear a slight screeching sound, and it kept derailing...I checked UA-cam and found your video to clean the truck...that is when I noticed the gear that engages with the worm was a little bit chewed up...no debris on the worm...perhaps someone dropped the engine ? or what else could have caused this? thanks again, your videos are VERY helpful!!!
@@kenfitzpatrick4775 I would have no idea on the damage. If it was used , you may never know.
Mike
Thank you Mike, haven't had that problem with Kato product ,but if it ever happens,this is good to know.Is the ES 44 ac the same?
Thanks so much David
hi Mike... great info but i have a question... i have an sd70ace i have had that same problem but i also have a second problem .. i noticed that the last 2 ace's that i purchased when going in reverse they make a clicking noise.. do you know what would be causing that??? could it be related to the trucks falling out???.. any help would be appreciated... vinny
+bnsf6951 It sounds to me like they may have had the tower put back together without the end bushing I mentioned ( that usually gets lost when the cap comes off)
Mike
+N Scale How To Channel... thanks Mike... i'll give a look see..vinny
+bnsf6951 If that bushing is missing the worm will jump on the main truck gear.
Mike
I have a problem right out of the box brand new with kato n scale engine simular to the one ur showing is it a very noisy engine when running on the track. Like a grinding winding noise which get louder when speed increases
Is it a switcher?
@@N-Scale is it a switcher? I am new to this ... its a Kato N Scale SD70ACe Union Pacific UP Our People #1111 DCC Ready and i didnt do anything to it other then place it on the track: ua-cam.com/video/y679-u8y7Dw/v-deo.html
Good info, thanks, Mike....
No problem , Thanks Jack.
Mike
Hi if that happens and you lose parts you can purchase complete trucks with shaft from Kato cheers
If the parts are in stock and you want to pay that much to fix it.
Mike
Thanks Mike again.
Thank You Dennis, Mike
thanks great info as all ways
Thanks very much William.
Mike
Are the trucks removed the same way on DCC fitted units?
Yes Happy Thanksgiving
@@N-Scale
Awesome! Thank you, happy thanksgiving to you too.
Mike I have a intermountain f unit that whines real loud, I've lubed everything but it still does it any suggestions?
Thanks Steve, Not if you have lubed the motor bearings.
Thanks , Mike
Kato need to build these on the older frame, the new frame is too light and bogie design is prone to failure because the worm moves around in the cap to much
Where did you get that Western Pacific?
It is mine and I got it when Kato released them some time ago.
Thanks , Mike
Great how to Mike
Glynn
+QRoutback Thanks a bunch Glynn, Mike