Thank you, sir. I’m in the process of shopping for a whole house humidifier here in CT, and took your comment to heart, about it being installed properly with a outdoor thermometer and making sure it’s set to automatic.
Straight forward and to the point, jam-packed with great info. Contemplating what unit to get and your info here isn't typically spoken about. I spoke to 3 installers, two of them came on site and none mentioned the temperature measure outside, nor automatic regulation. They would have installed something and I'd have potentially ruined my house over the years. I didn't think of the impacts listed in this video. Thank you!
I live in a condo and got a high powered humidifier a week ago, and was running it pretty intensely to help close gaps in trim and drywall that gets dried out in the winter. But then I realized I'm living in an older condo with poor insulation and once that humidity passes the drywall and gets behind the wall its going to condense in that space, so I'm not gonna risk it. Any time you make a change to your home's air flow situation you really need to consider the big picture.
I 100% agree with everything you said. I only will sell and personally run Aprilaire units with the Automatic humidistat like the 700 and 800 models have available. The outdoor sensor works great and it holds a perfect 35%-40% all year around. Manual systems are ridiculous, but I did here Honeywell or someone came out with a better humidistat, but haven't seen it yet. Why change something that isn't broken. Here is Colorado, we are so arid and dry like the darn desert. People thinks all it does it snow here. I couldn't buy a snow cone at the races let alone get some snow. But shhhh... we don't want anymore people coming here, so.... don't tell anyone.
As long as you have a properly functioning humidistat and leave it set to a reasonable amount of humidity like 40%, there should not be an issue. People run a humidifier for respiratory and skin reasons, a Humidifier that does not provide a sufficient amount of humidity is actually worthless so if it’s 20° outside and your “automatic sensor humidifier” only provides you with 25% humidity in your home you’re not getting the right amount of moisture. so the predetermined criteria is not always the best way to go.
You should watch the video again and pay attention this time, the indoor space requires less humidity levels as temperatures outside drop. Not obeying this rule will cause interior condensation, mold and mildew.
@@jimross2101 I think you’re not understanding you buy humidifier because of respiratory issues and the fact that a dry house causes dry skin coughing and what not, most people don’t buy humidifier for their furniture or their house. Reducing the humidity because outside is colder it’s not what the average consumer is after, they want a 50% Humidity level ( regardless if it’s 10° or zero outside) so that helps them with there skin/medical issues.
@@petermaz701 if "the average person" doesn't lower the indoor humidity as it gets colder outside, they're going to end up with condensation on their windows and in their walls which will cause mold in the walls. Then they're really going to have respiratory issues for sure!
@@petermaz701 the part your missing is that air flows to spaces other than the homes interior. You run a humidifier in a 70 degree house when it's 20 degrees outside it might feel fine in the living space, but that 70 degree, 40percent humidity air eventually flows up into the attic or behind drywall where it's 40 degrees and now it can't hold that much moisture, and that humidity starts to condense just like it does on the glass of a cold beverage on a hot summer day. Now you have a moisture issue that you can't see and a breeding ground for mold. Humidifier installation has to take into account what you've got in your other spaces like your attack and behind walls (vapor barrier, which not all homes have)
I'm surprised this is an issue in the era of smart thermostats. My Ecobee runs my humidifier and it has a default setting that adjusts humidity based on outside temperature. It knows the forecast and it adjust accordingly. No need to run any outdoor sensors.
@@castro1223All humidifiers which are externally controlled, should be able to do this. As far as the humidifier is concerned, it is just an on off switch.
Will Humidifier Control, control furnace blower ON/OFF? My humidifier is mist kind and requires heat and blower working together with humidifier. My humidifier also requires furnace blower to work a couple minutes after humidifier switches off automatically to distribute all the moisture collected in the duct. If blower stops the same time with mist humidifier moisture still will sit inside plenum and makes it rust. Will this Humidifier Control have this setting so furnace blower work few minutes after humidifier switched off?
Several natural gas furnaces have a terminal marked "HUM" that functions exactly as you described. It is energized when there's a call for heat which sends power to the solenoid to allow water to flow to the humidifier. Once the call for heat is satisfied it shuts off the power to the solenoid which cuts off the flow of water. The furnace fan runs for a few minutes then shuts off. One thing to watch out for is that the HUM terminal is sometimes line voltage (typically or 240V depending on where you live). In this case, you need to use a transformer to step the voltage down to 24 VAC for the solenoid or you'll fry it
@@trevorritchie2575 Thank you. I read instructions to my furnace which is 2 years old BG951UHE and it shows it does have HUM plug for both 120v and 24v. Here is Terminal Designations 120 HUM Humidifier (120 VAC) LINE Input (120 VAC) XFMR Transformer (120 VAC) CIRC Indoor Blower (120 VAC) EAC Electronic Air Cleaner (120 VAC) COOL Blower - Cooling Speed (24 VAC) HEAT Blower - Heating Speed (24 VAC) FAN Blower - Fan Speed (24 VAC) PARK Dead terminals to park all speed taps NEUTRALS Neutral Terminals (120 VAC) FS Flame Sense 24 COM Common (24 VAC) HUM 24 Humidifier (24 VAC. I noticed there is also flame sense plug. Could you also tell what flame sense does and what used for? Does flame sense plug have its own voltage or it just switch that engages on when flame present? I was thinking to use external adapter to humidifier that plugs to the wall and provides 24v but want humidifier to turn on only when flame comes on. I can run wire from 24v furnace powered hum plug to humidifier without using external 24v adapter too
You're not considering the RH is different for every room depending on sq. ft. AND 1. Trunk distribution length from furnace. 2. Material in each room that absorbs water. Comfort of individuals living in the house is top priority. Throw the charts out. If your hands, skin is dry; regulate to 40% RH, if you are getting condensation on windows, it's too high. Yes very crude, but it works. I have verified by using a hydrometer in each room. It takes 24 hrs or more for any RH change using a forced air humidifier. Just what works for me.
how does excess humidity get into attic? there is supposed to be a vapor barrier installed on insulated ceilings and walls....either plastic or faced batts of insulation. If humidity is freezing on inside of attic roof....then the chances are something is wrong with the installation of insulation. Also the humidistat has to be working properly. Do not connect hot water to humidifier. Thanks
Think about that either automatic or manual, it does not matter, I actually like manual better because those automatic sensors are never right, are connected to hot water, stay by your humidifier for 15 minutes while it's running and look how much water is wasted and go strait down to the drain.
You can connect either to hot or cold water. Hot water costs a bit more but evaporates more easily. The flow rate is controlled by a plastic orifice, which can wear and allow too much water to flow. The flow rate should be measured once a year and the orifice replaced if necessary.
You know, I just disconnected and removed my AprilAire whole house humidifier. They just waste water and don't work well at all. It's my third home that I have done so. Now I just use the whole house console style humidifiers. Those work so much better and actually do introduce the proper amount of humidity to my home. And I no longer have any condensation or mold issues. Those whole house furnace mounted units never ever work right whether automatic or manual. I'm of the belief that there should never be any water in my furnace duct work.
My April Aire 400 is useless in my opinion. It never really humidifies my house at all. I have mine cranked up to max but my humidity never gets above 32%. I wake up at night with a dry throat so this thing is useless.
@@trevorritchie2575 The 2 floats are there to save water over actually putting enough humidity in the air. I took them out and replaced with 2 magnets that allow continuous flow of water over the filter element. Now my humidity reaches over 40%. My house has all brand new energy star windows and have installed more insulation that is well over the required code.. The 400 model is made to conserve water and not actually put humidity in the air, but at least I found a work around.
I turned off my humidifier because I cook a lot and there is always a lot humidity in my house and most of my family members take showers in hot water and the humidity level rises and open my window and it still doesn’t lower the humidity so I bought a dehumidifier and helped me a lot I higher my temperature in my house from 20 to 23 Celsius higher ur temperature is the best for condensation on window and humidity level in your house to have no condensation on window higher your temperature to 23 celcius and buy whole house dehumidifier for 250$ it’s worth it so you don’t spend more money in the future for mould and wet walls and keep your windows open if not cold for less humidity and when your done taking showers wipe the wet walls in your bathroom to prevent mould and condensation with a cloth!!!!
I'm in the st. Louis Missouri area I understand it doesn't get as cold here as there but we pretty much set them at 35 and they usually run the whole time the heat is on. Do you really think 10% more humidity in the home will destroy them like this. I think you need to look elsewhere for your voice your problems.
If you have a smart thermostat i.e. nest or ecobee, you do NOT need to purchase an automatic humidifier. Save some money, purchase a manual, hook it up to your smart thermostat and let the thermostat run your humidifier. A LOT less wiring and easier install.
Thx for sharing ..I was looking for this type of comment …so the manual thermostat temperature you choose is not relevant …the smart thermostat will just run based off temperature? Sorry I’m not understanding …hope you can respond or anyone for that matter …thx
In MN Why would you need a whole house humidifier? Obvisously not to be dry. I have a make up air intake, wouldn't that be the same?, I am still allowing fresh (humid) air in since my 1958 home has been at 45% and basement, if I cook it will jump to 55+% and have to run overhead vent to get rid of moisture off the windows, then around Feb where its super cold usually and my dad and/or grand parents would set a bowl of water in front of a vent. Wouldn't a HRV or a ERV be better or needed instead?
Problem solved...until the outdoor temperature drops below -20 and you end up with condensation on your windows that runs down into your walls which causes mold to grow inside your walls and rots the wood!
@@trevorritchie2575 😂 I think I would always remember to turn it completely off if it’s ever that cold here in the Midwest. Seriously though, when is it ever that cold other than a few states?
You've left out other information, such as RH monitors for INSIDE the living spaces; and how the various models are installed. Some instruct to mount in the air return plenum (which makes no sense to me AT ALL), others state to install in the heated air plenum (which is beyond the furnace and doesn't foul the furnace filter and allow the furnace flames to simply burn-off the moisture, in my opinion). In all cases, and I am a Minnesota native, keepin an eye on window condensation is a MUST. If you see condensation, you need to turn down the humidity; unless you like rotted wood.
Really does not make sense what you saying, hole house humidifier has thermostat with is controls humidity in my house if I’m comfortable at 50% I set it at 50% and it will keep it at set point ,then why I should care what’s outside humidity is at
You must not understand what Relative Humidity is (relative humidify is relative to temperature) and also dew point. (you care about what the outside temp is cause of dewpoint, if it gets cold outside and humidift is too high indoor you get condensation, this is also dependant on temperature)
Hot air can hold a lot more humidity than cold air. The air is always going to hold close to the maximum amount of moisture it can given there's water somewhere. So what happens when you heat up saturated cold air? The amount of moisture it can hold increases significantly so now that hot air starts drawing moisture out of other things, like your sinuses and the wood in your house which can cause seasonal warping and cracking (though they usually come back together when humidity stabilizes again to where it was when the wood was installed). That's the reason why you WOULD want a humidifier. However, if your house has poor insulation, and there's a lot of airflow from the inside to the outside, hot humid air will cool as it comes into contact with cold windows, or worse the roof or osb between your siding and drywall. Now that air is cold and can't hold the moisture it once did when it was I. Your living space, and all that moisture starts condensing on those cold surfaces leading to dampness and mold.
Um...you didn’t mention about people whose house has solid wood floors or in my case I have expensive solid wood instruments that will crack from Minnesota fall/winter season 🤣. Even people who own solid wood piano will benefit from whole house humidifier. Just a thought for why someone in Minnesota will need one 😁
Ditto in Toronto where the furnace is running constantly and humidity levels in my home drop to under 30%. The Martin wont last long in that kind of environment
Glad you got that off your chest but if would be helpful if you named some whole house humidifier units that came with the outdoor temperture sensor and saved on water bill as well.
Sorry this guy doesn’t know what he’s talking about. At all. If your getting condensation in your attic on your walls and destroying sills welp your insulation sucks....fix it. If you have the outdoor temp installed you miss well not have even spent the money on the humidifier because it will never turn on because the temp sensor with control is “stupid” it automatically thinks your insulation and windows are the worst grade...so it will never turn on. Humans like a humidity level between 50-55%. You have to get as close to those levels as you possible can without it raining in your house. 35% does nothing for you. Best solution and only solution that actually makes sense is to spend the money also on the Honeywell prestige 2.0 red link. Stay will operate the humidifier and also has 10 window protection settings. So if your windows/insulation sucks you can choose level 1 or if your windows/insulation is great you can set to upper levels up to 10. I’m also a heating contractor. Another thing if you want a humidifier get the aprilaire 800. The water panel type humidifiers like the 500/600/700 just waste to much water and are extremely inefficient
Just had a guy bid $1000 to install an automatic one. He said NOTHING about any correlation to outside temperature, nor did he mention a sensor to monitor it. He said the automatic versions (he sells one of the most popular brands, with the name of a springtime month in it) need to cycle on the air handler fan if the furnace hasn't run lately to get a valid humidity sample. (from inside the return air plenum) This sounds like the cheapest, laziest, stupidest, most inefficient, and most wasteful design imaginable.Whew, do I feel better now......
That is a very valid option still, absolutely nothing wrong with it., a simple fix to too much humidity problem in any house that the guy in the video doesn't seem to know is just turn down the water pressure at the valve stepping off the supply going to the humidifier, also it'll cost A LOT more than $1,000 if you want one with the sensors saying as you would have to have control wire ran and it is much more labor-intensive
@@Floreypottery the humidistat controls the unit or the furnace ignition board does vuz itl be wired to tirn on whenever a call for heat is made. Newer furnaces have a seperate HUM terminal dedicated for humidifier control. No humidifier i know controls itself.. even the aprilair 800
I had a guy recently come out and want 1200 to install one, and considering the u it is about 500, he wanted 700 in labor. I about laughed in his face. I'm not a plumber or hvac technician, but I know how the job is done and it's a 2 hour project. You can literally stand in one place and reach my furnace with one arm and the boiler with the other. There are a lot of contractors out there who will way ivercharge for things like this. He also asked me zero questions about my insulation and moisture barrier situation so I basically just decided I'd rather deal with some seasonal crack that are just gonna close back up in the summer anyways.
Isn't that precisely what he is advising you to do: get a man or woman who knows how to properly install it. It seems you are a person who has no idea why this video is very useful for folks who are unfamiliar with whole-house humidifiers.
Thank you, sir. I’m in the process of shopping for a whole house humidifier here in CT, and took your comment to heart, about it being installed properly with a outdoor thermometer and making sure it’s set to automatic.
Straight forward and to the point, jam-packed with great info. Contemplating what unit to get and your info here isn't typically spoken about. I spoke to 3 installers, two of them came on site and none mentioned the temperature measure outside, nor automatic regulation. They would have installed something and I'd have potentially ruined my house over the years. I didn't think of the impacts listed in this video. Thank you!
I live in a condo and got a high powered humidifier a week ago, and was running it pretty intensely to help close gaps in trim and drywall that gets dried out in the winter. But then I realized I'm living in an older condo with poor insulation and once that humidity passes the drywall and gets behind the wall its going to condense in that space, so I'm not gonna risk it. Any time you make a change to your home's air flow situation you really need to consider the big picture.
I 100% agree with everything you said. I only will sell and personally run Aprilaire units with the Automatic humidistat like the 700 and 800 models have available. The outdoor sensor works great and it holds a perfect 35%-40% all year around. Manual systems are ridiculous, but I did here Honeywell or someone came out with a better humidistat, but haven't seen it yet. Why change something that isn't broken. Here is Colorado, we are so arid and dry like the darn desert. People thinks all it does it snow here. I couldn't buy a snow cone at the races let alone get some snow. But shhhh... we don't want anymore people coming here, so.... don't tell anyone.
thanks from Canada great video!
As long as you have a properly functioning humidistat and leave it set to a reasonable amount of humidity like 40%, there should not be an issue. People run a humidifier for respiratory and skin reasons, a Humidifier that does not provide a sufficient amount of humidity is actually worthless so if it’s 20° outside and your “automatic sensor humidifier” only provides you with 25% humidity in your home you’re not getting the right amount of moisture. so the predetermined criteria is not always the best way to go.
You should watch the video again and pay attention this time, the indoor space requires less humidity levels as temperatures outside drop. Not obeying this rule will cause interior condensation, mold and mildew.
@@jimross2101 I think you’re not understanding you buy humidifier because of respiratory issues and the fact that a dry house causes dry skin coughing and what not, most people don’t buy humidifier for their furniture or their house. Reducing the humidity because outside is colder it’s not what the average consumer is after, they want a 50% Humidity level ( regardless if it’s 10° or zero outside) so that helps them with there skin/medical issues.
@@petermaz701 if "the average person" doesn't lower the indoor humidity as it gets colder outside, they're going to end up with condensation on their windows and in their walls which will cause mold in the walls. Then they're really going to have respiratory issues for sure!
@@petermaz701 the part your missing is that air flows to spaces other than the homes interior. You run a humidifier in a 70 degree house when it's 20 degrees outside it might feel fine in the living space, but that 70 degree, 40percent humidity air eventually flows up into the attic or behind drywall where it's 40 degrees and now it can't hold that much moisture, and that humidity starts to condense just like it does on the glass of a cold beverage on a hot summer day. Now you have a moisture issue that you can't see and a breeding ground for mold. Humidifier installation has to take into account what you've got in your other spaces like your attack and behind walls (vapor barrier, which not all homes have)
Then you need to have a personal humidifier you fill up with water. There's a reason we have the technology we have in HVAC systems. Liability.
I'm surprised this is an issue in the era of smart thermostats. My Ecobee runs my humidifier and it has a default setting that adjusts humidity based on outside temperature. It knows the forecast and it adjust accordingly. No need to run any outdoor sensors.
but is it compatible with your humidifier?
@@castro1223 DUH! He's already doing it.
It's not an issue in this era of smart thermostats when proper installation and setup is done.
@@castro1223All humidifiers which are externally controlled, should be able to do this. As far as the humidifier is concerned, it is just an on off switch.
That's more like a problem with idiots not knowing what hygrometer is for, nothing to do with whole house humidifiers.
My April aire I just turned off cause at 30-40% humidity once it gets below 32 degrees I get moisture on the inside of my windows very annoying
Thank you for the information!
I had the same issue of condensation gathering on the window sill. Ruined the wood even if set to lowest humidity level.
Great info thanks!
It not the humidifier causing the issue its the home owners that do not maintenance the unit and are not educated on proper humidity levels
This seems to be true, just like the old adage “it’s not the dogs/kids, it’s the parents” 😂
thanks, Automatic for my diy Aprilaire 600M Humidifier Installation
Will Humidifier Control, control furnace blower ON/OFF? My humidifier is mist kind and requires heat and blower working together with humidifier. My humidifier also requires furnace blower to work a couple minutes after humidifier switches off automatically to distribute all the moisture collected in the duct. If blower stops the same time with mist humidifier moisture still will sit inside plenum and makes it rust. Will this Humidifier Control have this setting so furnace blower work few minutes after humidifier switched off?
Several natural gas furnaces have a terminal marked "HUM" that functions exactly as you described. It is energized when there's a call for heat which sends power to the solenoid to allow water to flow to the humidifier. Once the call for heat is satisfied it shuts off the power to the solenoid which cuts off the flow of water. The furnace fan runs for a few minutes then shuts off. One thing to watch out for is that the HUM terminal is sometimes line voltage (typically or 240V depending on where you live). In this case, you need to use a transformer to step the voltage down to 24 VAC for the solenoid or you'll fry it
@@trevorritchie2575 Thank you. I read instructions to my furnace which is 2 years old BG951UHE and it shows it does have HUM plug for both 120v and 24v. Here is Terminal Designations
120 HUM Humidifier (120 VAC)
LINE Input (120 VAC)
XFMR Transformer (120 VAC)
CIRC Indoor Blower (120 VAC)
EAC Electronic Air Cleaner (120 VAC)
COOL Blower - Cooling Speed (24 VAC)
HEAT Blower - Heating Speed (24 VAC)
FAN Blower - Fan Speed (24 VAC)
PARK Dead terminals to park all speed taps
NEUTRALS Neutral Terminals (120 VAC)
FS Flame Sense
24 COM Common (24 VAC)
HUM 24 Humidifier (24 VAC.
I noticed there is also flame sense plug. Could you also tell what flame sense does and what used for? Does flame sense plug have its own voltage or it just switch that engages on when flame present? I was thinking to use external adapter to humidifier that plugs to the wall and provides 24v but want humidifier to turn on only when flame comes on. I can run wire from 24v furnace powered hum plug to humidifier without using external 24v adapter too
Thank you for the info. you give us.
Thanks
Thanks for the info 🤗
You're not considering the RH is different for every room depending on sq. ft. AND
1. Trunk distribution length from furnace. 2. Material in each room that absorbs water. Comfort of individuals living in the house is top priority.
Throw the charts out. If your hands, skin is dry; regulate to 40% RH, if you are getting condensation on windows, it's too high. Yes very crude, but it works. I have verified by using a hydrometer in each room. It takes 24 hrs or more for any RH change using a forced air humidifier. Just what works for me.
how does excess humidity get into attic? there is supposed to be a vapor barrier installed on insulated ceilings and walls....either plastic or faced batts of insulation. If humidity is freezing on inside of attic roof....then the chances are something is wrong with the installation of insulation. Also the humidistat has to be working properly. Do not connect hot water to humidifier. Thanks
James Mccloud what not the hot water?
Think about that either automatic or manual, it does not matter, I actually like manual better because those automatic sensors are never right, are connected to hot water, stay by your humidifier for 15 minutes while it's running and look how much water is wasted and go strait down to the drain.
You can connect either to hot or cold water. Hot water costs a bit more but evaporates more easily. The flow rate is controlled by a plastic orifice, which can wear and allow too much water to flow. The flow rate should be measured once a year and the orifice replaced if necessary.
You know, I just disconnected and removed my AprilAire whole house humidifier. They just waste water and don't work well at all. It's my third home that I have done so. Now I just use the whole house console style humidifiers. Those work so much better and actually do introduce the proper amount of humidity to my home. And I no longer have any condensation or mold issues. Those whole house furnace mounted units never ever work right whether automatic or manual. I'm of the belief that there should never be any water in my furnace duct work.
No tofu.. lol great video.. good info and understandable main point.
What units come with an outdoor temperature probe?
Let me google that for you.
@Funk Hand lol
Great info buddy - thanks for sharing 👍
My April Aire 400 is useless in my opinion. It never really humidifies my house at all. I have mine cranked up to max but my humidity never gets above 32%. I wake up at night with a dry throat so this thing is useless.
Your house might be too leaky or too big for it. Try turning it off and see if the indoor humidity changes
@@trevorritchie2575 The 2 floats are there to save water over actually putting enough humidity in the air. I took them out and replaced with 2 magnets that allow continuous flow of water over the filter element. Now my humidity reaches over 40%. My house has all brand new energy star windows and have installed more insulation that is well over the required code.. The 400 model is made to conserve water and not actually put humidity in the air, but at least I found a work around.
Would it be let’s say 0 out furnace going run more you want more humidity in house as to not have dry heat ?
Problem solved- I’ve got a humidistat in my attic- no moisture in my attic, good to go!
I turned off my humidifier because I cook a lot and there is always a lot humidity in my house and most of my family members take showers in hot water and the humidity level rises and open my window and it still doesn’t lower the humidity so I bought a dehumidifier and helped me a lot I higher my temperature in my house from 20 to 23 Celsius higher ur temperature is the best for condensation on window and humidity level in your house to have no condensation on window higher your temperature to 23 celcius and buy whole house dehumidifier for 250$ it’s worth it so you don’t spend more money in the future for mould and wet walls and keep your windows open if not cold for less humidity and when your done taking showers wipe the wet walls in your bathroom to prevent mould and condensation with a cloth!!!!
Nice
I'm in the st. Louis Missouri area I understand it doesn't get as cold here as there but we pretty much set them at 35 and they usually run the whole time the heat is on.
Do you really think 10% more humidity in the home will destroy them like this.
I think you need to look elsewhere for your voice your problems.
If you have a smart thermostat i.e. nest or ecobee, you do NOT need to purchase an automatic humidifier. Save some money, purchase a manual, hook it up to your smart thermostat and let the thermostat run your humidifier. A LOT less wiring and easier install.
Thx for sharing ..I was looking for this type of comment …so the manual thermostat temperature you choose is not relevant …the smart thermostat will just run based off temperature? Sorry I’m not understanding …hope you can respond or anyone for that matter …thx
In MN Why would you need a whole house humidifier? Obvisously not to be dry. I have a make up air intake, wouldn't that be the same?, I am still allowing fresh (humid) air in since my 1958 home has been at 45% and basement, if I cook it will jump to 55+% and have to run overhead vent to get rid of moisture off the windows, then around Feb where its super cold usually and my dad and/or grand parents would set a bowl of water in front of a vent. Wouldn't a HRV or a ERV be better or needed instead?
Make sure you have a fan interlock, set the humidity for 35% and walk away. Problem solved.
Problem solved...until the outdoor temperature drops below -20 and you end up with condensation on your windows that runs down into your walls which causes mold to grow inside your walls and rots the wood!
@@trevorritchie2575 😂 I think I would always remember to turn it completely off if it’s ever that cold here in the Midwest. Seriously though, when is it ever that cold other than a few states?
What’s beef?
Beef is when you need 2 gats to go to sleep 😁
@@grandseafood8320 You won the phuqing internet today, my friend lol
@@grandseafood8320 Haha!
You've left out other information, such as RH monitors for INSIDE the living spaces; and how the various models are installed. Some instruct to mount in the air return plenum (which makes no sense to me AT ALL), others state to install in the heated air plenum (which is beyond the furnace and doesn't foul the furnace filter and allow the furnace flames to simply burn-off the moisture, in my opinion). In all cases, and I am a Minnesota native, keepin an eye on window condensation is a MUST. If you see condensation, you need to turn down the humidity; unless you like rotted wood.
They all pretty much suck-- especially in places like Arizona, where it is almost impossible to get the needed 35%+ on average.
Really does not make sense what you saying, hole house humidifier has thermostat with is controls humidity in my house if I’m comfortable at 50% I set it at 50% and it will keep it at set point ,then why I should care what’s outside humidity is at
You must not understand what Relative Humidity is (relative humidify is relative to temperature) and also dew point. (you care about what the outside temp is cause of dewpoint, if it gets cold outside and humidift is too high indoor you get condensation, this is also dependant on temperature)
Hot air can hold a lot more humidity than cold air. The air is always going to hold close to the maximum amount of moisture it can given there's water somewhere. So what happens when you heat up saturated cold air? The amount of moisture it can hold increases significantly so now that hot air starts drawing moisture out of other things, like your sinuses and the wood in your house which can cause seasonal warping and cracking (though they usually come back together when humidity stabilizes again to where it was when the wood was installed). That's the reason why you WOULD want a humidifier.
However, if your house has poor insulation, and there's a lot of airflow from the inside to the outside, hot humid air will cool as it comes into contact with cold windows, or worse the roof or osb between your siding and drywall. Now that air is cold and can't hold the moisture it once did when it was I. Your living space, and all that moisture starts condensing on those cold surfaces leading to dampness and mold.
Um...you didn’t mention about people whose house has solid wood floors or in my case I have expensive solid wood instruments that will crack from Minnesota fall/winter season 🤣. Even people who own solid wood piano will benefit from whole house humidifier. Just a thought for why someone in Minnesota will need one 😁
Ditto in Toronto where the furnace is running constantly and humidity levels in my home drop to under 30%. The Martin wont last long in that kind of environment
Glad you got that off your chest but if would be helpful if you named some whole house humidifier units that came with the outdoor temperture sensor and saved on water bill as well.
Same thought here too. - Which models would he recommend? Hah
Aprilair offers them in the 600 or 700 model just had one installed with new furnace and hvac guy said to use one that adjusted itself
Use huge amount of wasted water
Minnesotans are just lost Canadians.
Did you just say “have a beef”? Sounds like you have a whole cow. I think you meant to say have beef with them.
Sorry this guy doesn’t know what he’s talking about. At all. If your getting condensation in your attic on your walls and destroying sills welp your insulation sucks....fix it. If you have the outdoor temp installed you miss well not have even spent the money on the humidifier because it will never turn on because the temp sensor with control is “stupid” it automatically thinks your insulation and windows are the worst grade...so it will never turn on. Humans like a humidity level between 50-55%. You have to get as close to those levels as you possible can without it raining in your house. 35% does nothing for you. Best solution and only solution that actually makes sense is to spend the money also on the Honeywell prestige 2.0 red link. Stay will operate the humidifier and also has 10 window protection settings. So if your windows/insulation sucks you can choose level 1 or if your windows/insulation is great you can set to upper levels up to 10. I’m also a heating contractor. Another thing if you want a humidifier get the aprilaire 800. The water panel type humidifiers like the 500/600/700 just waste to much water and are extremely inefficient
Just had a guy bid $1000 to install an automatic one. He said NOTHING about any correlation to outside temperature, nor did he mention a sensor to monitor it. He said the automatic versions (he sells one of the most popular brands, with the name of a springtime month in it) need to cycle on the air handler fan if the furnace hasn't run lately to get a valid humidity sample. (from inside the return air plenum) This sounds like the cheapest, laziest, stupidest, most inefficient, and most wasteful design imaginable.Whew, do I feel better now......
That is a very valid option still, absolutely nothing wrong with it., a simple fix to too much humidity problem in any house that the guy in the video doesn't seem to know is just turn down the water pressure at the valve stepping off the supply going to the humidifier, also it'll cost A LOT more than $1,000 if you want one with the sensors saying as you would have to have control wire ran and it is much more labor-intensive
Stephen Dullea my hvac did mine for 400 bucks aprilair model 700 or 600 with autocontrol sounds like someone was trying to rip you off
Chris Hedger not really a sensor goes outside the unit controls itself
@@Floreypottery the humidistat controls the unit or the furnace ignition board does vuz itl be wired to tirn on whenever a call for heat is made. Newer furnaces have a seperate HUM terminal dedicated for humidifier control. No humidifier i know controls itself.. even the aprilair 800
I had a guy recently come out and want 1200 to install one, and considering the u it is about 500, he wanted 700 in labor. I about laughed in his face. I'm not a plumber or hvac technician, but I know how the job is done and it's a 2 hour project. You can literally stand in one place and reach my furnace with one arm and the boiler with the other. There are a lot of contractors out there who will way ivercharge for things like this. He also asked me zero questions about my insulation and moisture barrier situation so I basically just decided I'd rather deal with some seasonal crack that are just gonna close back up in the summer anyways.
The guy don't have any idea where is the problem all you need is probably guy who knows how to properly installing it.
You don't know what you're talking about. Please ignore this comment.
Isn't that precisely what he is advising you to do: get a man or woman who knows how to properly install it. It seems you are a person who has no idea why this video is very useful for folks who are unfamiliar with whole-house humidifiers.