The "big bike" (as in "big pharma") finally caught him and made a pretty convincing bio-robot. We should be on high alert and lookout for unnatural behaviour 🙈 Let's throw baguettes at him: if he responds, it's still Luke 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖
Luke, we like you. Please don't drill your stem, especially near the clamping area. That's where all your weight rests on the steerer tube. I do see that stem looks pretty chunky on the inside, but I wouldn't risk my teeth hiding that much of cable.
I have to agree, where you're considering drilling are both essential to the structural integrity of the stem. For the sake of your teeth, don't do it!
The spot Luke's pointing at is far enough from the clamping zones. High end stems even have webbing where normally a tube is. Rather, consider how cleanly the hole is drilled and deburred - that might start cracking.
Agreed. Please don't drill holes in your stem, steerer, or handlebars. I think you only mentioned the stem, but I kind of want to cover every base I can.
It's hard to know if that alloy stem has been heat-treated, but most cast alloy parts need machining while the alloy is still soft and malleable, before final heat-treatment to guarantee the strength and stiffness needed for things like tapped screw threads. Machining something that's been heat-treated can have wildly different effects depending on the type of heat-treatment the alloy has had, so it's a gamble that might go one of several ways, a few of them being undesirable. 🥖🥖Rather than trying to drill the stem, why not 3D-print something that covers up all the mess under the stem, replacing the existing plastic aero wedges where the bar meets the stem clamp? 🥖🥖
I would drill it. A lot of the material is there and physically does nothing. They've just left it because it costs time and hence money to remove it. The metal is 4-5mm thick and I'd be surprised if drilling two 5mm holes made a massive difference - just don't go to the corners. Also preheat the metal in the oven to 60C before you do it, it will reduce the risk of a crack from drilling that you can't see. I appreciate a lot of commentators will be risk averse but this is a UA-cam channel and people are tuning in to either see you hurt yourself, make an expensive mistake or end up in Accident and Emergency! Best of Luck
LOL, well said. I‘d say „drill it“, too, but because I like watching your stuff not for the sake of seeing you hurt yourself, I‘d say just make sure you regularly inspect those holes. If no cracks are starting to form, you‘ll be fine. That thing isn‘t just going to brake from one moment to another.
these china stuff is safe if u drive a bike no faster than 15kph and wearing a bullet-prof west with a motorcycle helmet.. i can not believe that people trust this guy with 0 technical knowledge .. it like watching a cocomelon episode and saying "Yes that's a proper thing for my kids"...
Will straight drilled holes work or should they be drilled at an angle to avoid damage to the cable housing? The latter would make it considerably more difficult, even with some clever use of a Dremel.
I got the same cassette, and so far no issues in 4000km, working well even with a di2 Shimano. As for the drilling, I'd be wary of drilling so close to the handlebar clamp, since it's going to be a loaded zone. Rather I'd 3d print a cover which attachs underneath and covers off the cables
In the 70s and 80s, my dad was a major 'recycler". He often went to the local garbage dump and brought things home to tinker with. He brought a car wheel home one time, but the holes for the lugs weren't right for the car He wanted to put it on (my car). So he redrilled it. Do you know what happened? It formed cracks between the newly drilled holes and collapsed while I was driving. No one was hurt, but my father, who had a PhD and a masters too in another discipline, learned a valuable lesson. Luke, don't be like my dad!
I wouldn't risk my safety for minor appearances. There'd be no appreciable gain moving the hoses. Take a pass drilling the stem. My two cents. Great content, keep it coming.
@@Runner9264Yes exactly. Trying to ride on a lightweight bike provides a completely different feeling than before. I definitely recommend to try riding a lightweight bike.
FSA makes a stem that will do what you want. The FSA SMR. There are two of them. One has a cover than goes under the stem that the cables go through. They can be found easily on sale for about $85 USD.
Used a cheap one block 11-36 11speed cassette from AlieXpress during the Transpyrenees bikepacking race: worked well enough for a +1000 km race but not nearly as well as a hyperglide Shimano cassette.
Please dont tinker around with drilling holes. I am a mechanical engineer and have been cycling for the past 40 years. Done a lot of b=?)/=)t to my bikes, but would never ever consider modifying or tuning or doing anything to a stem or a handlebar. If that breaks you are in big trouble. If you really want to hide that inch or two of cable showing, get some other funky cockpit off Ali and show us that instead.
That stem seems so masively overkill in terms of thickness, I would personally feel comfortable with drilling small holes to pass the brake lines. Hambini said it's ok too so go for it!
The "Recon One-Piece Cassettes Al 11s 11-28T" should be lighter than the sprocket introduced here. It weighs 117g. However, since all the teeth of sprockets are aluminum, the lifespan will be short.
Those sheared teeth - probably a result of shifting under load. If you're really unlucky, you can bend a steel cog as well (not individual tooth, just a section of the sprocket)
if you do go ahead and drill it to pass the hoses internally, cut off the screw threads that extend into the stem. these will be rubbing against the hoses maybe and cause wear. Feeling around the interior for any sharp edges would be prudent as well.
These Riro cassettes (products in general) do look really promising. However, I would love to see a XDR cassette that works with "normal" chains (Shimano, KMC, YBN). ZTTO do sell one, however the rivets holding together the aluminium and the steel cogs have bad tollerances, which results in clicking noises ... How about this new Riro cassette? Are the two parts bonded together flawlessly, or do they come loose over time as well?
Monoblock cassettes may sound nice idea but that takes away flexibility to replace individual sprockets or assemmble your own cassette with adjusted gearing. So you trade lightness of cassette for adjustability and maintenance. Oh, virtues of modern tech.....
Drill that stem. More likely than not, will be fine. Obviously, don't start drilling 20 holes in it. Fwiw, I retired one of these alu and steel k7 after 5-8k km, the alu cogs started skipping. If you live on the flat and don't do hard low torque high power efforts, and wax your chain, I think you can get incredible life out of these k7. I've just installed one of the these full steel monobloc. Paid 70 EUR for it. I'm still adjusting my RD for it as the spacing is a tiny bit different.
I like my SRAM red cassette, but it is ridiculously expensive. I tried Chinese alternatives before under the name RECON. But the shifting was terrible! And the 11T slipped right out the box. So I’m a little suspicious of Chinese brand stuff, the price is great but normally there is a reason for that. 🤷🏻♂️ No I personally wouldn’t drill the stem. It might be fine. But it’s not worth the risk, stems are 1 things you don’t mess with. There are plenty of other things you can drill on a bike, but components that directly support your weight should never be tampered with.
I actually bought this cassette after it was namedropped in your previous video -- super disappointed with the one I received, impossible to get it shifting properly. Going from 5th-6th cog or vice versa is super janky no matter how well adjusted the derailleur. At best you get to choose which direction is worse. This is with a Dura Ace R9100 drivetrain, a brand new chain, and a perfectly aligned hanger. Drives me bonkers. Way worse than the Ultegra cassette it replaced and shifts worse than the Sunshine cassette on my trainer. Don't recommend it to anyone unfortunately
I wouldn't drill the stem or the carbon handlebar. The stem is probably less concerning, but I would have to think there is a significant risk that drilling the carbon (especially so close to the stem) could lead to a structural failure. If that catches you on a descent or in a group of people, you're not going to have a good time.
With such cassette, you always trade the low weight for the fact that it is harder to adjust and significantly louder. This is because it is a single block or semi. Chain noises are directly transmitted through the freewheel of the wheel to the axle and frame. Even SRAM had to realize this and added rubber spacers between the sprockets on the Force cassette. Maybe you can add such at this too?
Got 2 11s SPEDAO cassettes from ali for a total of 60 eu. 11-28: 190g / 11-32: 230g. Still have to test them out but for the price was a no brainer, plus all steel
I've got one of those on the way too. They look to be a rip-off of the SROAD ones, which have disappeared for some reason. Maybe patent infringement or something? It's a shame there's no 10 speed option though
Nothing wrong with this review BUT It is amazing how cassette weight and hub sound boost the popularity of these unreliable parts. Just goes to show how void of satisfaction cyclists have become from pure riding. Shimano is no saint either after recalling Dura Ace and Ultegra cranks where the alloys act as a battery in wet conditions :) the Chinese would probably add an LED to the same thing and sell it as magical until it snaps under power (: 105 FTW!
Hey up Luke.....would it be ok to ask a quick question? Ive got a dura ace (di2) groupset (9150...or 9140 - whichever the rim break version was) and im looking at a disc frame from velobuild with fully integrated cabling. My question is - will i have a nightmare with cable actuated hydraulic brakes? I know the cable routing doesn't sometimes play nice with cables. Just seems a shame to chuck the groupset in a cupboard.....and i'll be buggered if im forking out for dura ace di2 hydraulic shifters and calipers!! 🙃 Any advice greatly appreciated......Mike 🙂
Got this cassette in 11-32, but will return it. Shifting is pretty poor on my bike (90's steel frame, Ultegra R8000 groupset, YBN SLA chain), light years behind a Shimano or even a Campagnolo 11s cassette. Maybe it would be better with a Shimano chain and another derailleur hanger's geometry (mine is a bit on the edge of general specifications), but I suspect cog's ramps to be poorly efficient. Quality-wise it doesn't look very good neither, the spring washer on the lock ring is so thin it crumbled when installing the cassette...and it looks like you can tighten it forever, but I did stop to what looks like an acceptable torque by rule of thumb. Some reviews on forums are talking about alloy cogs being even weaker than standard alloy cogs (and it's still far weaker than steel), with occurences of broken teeth. Will try the Goldix / Ztto ful steel cassette 🙂
Title of video is incorrect, the lightest cassette on Ali is the zitto 11-28 7 speed, only 130 grams. Full steel. I'm going to run it on my shortrack racing bike, with the SRAM 7 speed e shifter and an old short cage SRAM xo DH derailleur.
Routing the cables through a couple of inches of stem for.... neatness?? Just making work for yourself IMO. That'll be pretty hard and thick material I'd guess. And you'd likely be compromising the shift quality too? Life is too short mate.
Don't drill the stem, it's cast, cast doesn't like that and has a tendency to stress fracture and crack, not worth the risk. Also, the bolt cover/cowling at the back lines up with and clips into the spacers, So I think it would look terrible anyway. The boxy shape of those stems trick you into thinking they are "chunky" when in fact they aren't much wider at the clamp than many other stems, and the bars look fine on any standard boxy stem, like those boxy Carbon stems all over AliExpress and eBay sold under various brands like EC90, Balugoe and even (naughty, naughty) ROVAL . 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖
as a welder with machining experience I think you would be ok drilling two holes if you use this as a road bike not a gravel bike. you are pretty light I would probably not do this myself as I am a heavyweight
I decided that I'm done with steel/aluminium hybrid cassettes on road bikes. I mean they're probably fine if you barely ever use the climbing gears. But then again, if you live in a flat area, why bother with weight savings like these? And if you do actually climb a lot on steeper gradients and put out a bit of power then they're likely not gonna last long. I weigh 80+ kg and on steep gradients I have to push north of 300 watts just to keep moving and not fall over. One of those cheap steel/alu hybrids lasted less than 3000k before the alu cogs started skipping. Absolutely useless stuff.
The risk versus the gain in drilling holes in a load bearing box section is too high imo. Ask peak torque! Do you think that the Aluminium cassette parts have had a DLC applied (diamond like costing)? That would help with durability, but I expect that its a relatively expensive operation.
from an engineering perspective your simplification "AL is not so great for durability" is really based on a huge misconception. Yes steel is harder than aluminum. However right treated aluminium can be much harder than cheap steel. 2024 the idea of aluminium not being great for durability is not applicable. With the right treatment this aluminum sprocket could be much more durable than a steel one.
Drill sloooowly ! oil and or water the drill tip, drill threw an ice cube is one of those hacks, limite heat, impacts and side mouvements with the drill. it should be fine if it is chunky, but its one of those torsional areas that can take quite a lot of stress and end up pretty catastrophic. surgery won't be cheap or painless, it would be way better to treat yourself with a full one piece carbon cockpit ;) transitioning your UA-cam vlogging to surgery would not be valuable to aliexpress or us either.
How can I tell on Aliexpress what the length is on the RIRO crankset? The teeth are clear but I don't really see the length options. Ah they are all 170mm and the options are just the various teeth.
Why would you drill the stem twice, only to run cables for 11cm internally? Is it so unacceptable to have the cables routed externally from the handle bar to the cap above the steering bearing?
Odd that you are searching for a lightweight cassette and then put on a stem that looks like it came from "cycle king". Don't be stupid, you're a father now. x
This cassette might destroy your freehub body as the force you are puttting in is only adapted on two places of the whole cassette. It only puts through force on the two largest cogs and two smallest ones. So only on 4 out of 11 instead of all 11 like in a "normal" cassette.
I don't think couple holes in stem would cause any problem but I would check how this stem will look with standard spacers because it may look like shit. :P
Sounds like a lot of work to drill holes and then worry about the cables being slowly chewed away… I’d leave it as you won’t see the underside of the stem when you are on the bike 🤷🏻♂️
I got the Riro cassette on my dura ace di 2 11 speed and it’s impossible to calibrate it to an reliable level of shifting. Returning it. Weight to price ration was too good to be true.
Is there not a rear facing hole at the center of the clamping area of the handlebar + a corresponding hole in the stem, allowing the hose/cable to route w/o drilling. if these exist, why not go the full internal route?
please do not drill holes in your stem, we need you to be alive in order to review these things. maybe buy a stem with integrated cable mounts instead?
yup, you'll compromise the strength of the stem if you drill next to the steerer tube. You can test it by putting 4x or 5x the expected weight and see what happens, all my stems could probably handle 300lbs being gently set on to them. use a test base (2x4's upside down fork) and use a old steel steering tube/fork. Engineer the test platform so if you don't have weights, use your body weight and garbage bags filled with water, and only fall an inch, not 36. I'd like to see the test! Actually, I've been thinking, your handle bar will probably fail before that stem. Just stay close to the center, away from the corners or edge.🥐🥐
Very concerned that you didn't confirm your name is still Luke....🥖🥖
Same here
Call 911
It obviously isn't since he didn't say so
Imposter!!!
The "big bike" (as in "big pharma") finally caught him and made a pretty convincing bio-robot. We should be on high alert and lookout for unnatural behaviour 🙈
Let's throw baguettes at him: if he responds, it's still Luke 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖
Luke, we like you. Please don't drill your stem, especially near the clamping area. That's where all your weight rests on the steerer tube. I do see that stem looks pretty chunky on the inside, but I wouldn't risk my teeth hiding that much of cable.
I have to agree, where you're considering drilling are both essential to the structural integrity of the stem. For the sake of your teeth, don't do it!
The spot Luke's pointing at is far enough from the clamping zones. High end stems even have webbing where normally a tube is. Rather, consider how cleanly the hole is drilled and deburred - that might start cracking.
Agreed. Please don't drill holes in your stem, steerer, or handlebars. I think you only mentioned the stem, but I kind of want to cover every base I can.
How would he 🥖 without teeth
It's hard to know if that alloy stem has been heat-treated, but most cast alloy parts need machining while the alloy is still soft and malleable, before final heat-treatment to guarantee the strength and stiffness needed for things like tapped screw threads. Machining something that's been heat-treated can have wildly different effects depending on the type of heat-treatment the alloy has had, so it's a gamble that might go one of several ways, a few of them being undesirable. 🥖🥖Rather than trying to drill the stem, why not 3D-print something that covers up all the mess under the stem, replacing the existing plastic aero wedges where the bar meets the stem clamp? 🥖🥖
Been running the Riro cassette for 5 months now, over 5000km distance and 50000m elevation. Teeth wear looks good, no issues as of yet. Can recommend.
Can't recommend shifting Performance sucks
Not worth 10£
Maybe ITS also because of the Shadow Link of Shimano ultegra
I would drill it. A lot of the material is there and physically does nothing. They've just left it because it costs time and hence money to remove it. The metal is 4-5mm thick and I'd be surprised if drilling two 5mm holes made a massive difference - just don't go to the corners. Also preheat the metal in the oven to 60C before you do it, it will reduce the risk of a crack from drilling that you can't see. I appreciate a lot of commentators will be risk averse but this is a UA-cam channel and people are tuning in to either see you hurt yourself, make an expensive mistake or end up in Accident and Emergency! Best of Luck
LOL, well said. I‘d say „drill it“, too, but because I like watching your stuff not for the sake of seeing you hurt yourself, I‘d say just make sure you regularly inspect those holes. If no cracks are starting to form, you‘ll be fine. That thing isn‘t just going to brake from one moment to another.
these china stuff is safe if u drive a bike no faster than 15kph and wearing a bullet-prof west with a motorcycle helmet.. i can not believe that people trust this guy with 0 technical knowledge .. it like watching a cocomelon episode and saying "Yes that's a proper thing for my kids"...
If Hambini says “drill it” who are we to question!? Drill baby, Drill! 😅
Will straight drilled holes work or should they be drilled at an angle to avoid damage to the cable housing? The latter would make it considerably more difficult, even with some clever use of a Dremel.
like the bat signal going up, two parts of the trifecta. Drilling and stem. just need a hairdresser to complete.
I got the same cassette, and so far no issues in 4000km, working well even with a di2 Shimano. As for the drilling, I'd be wary of drilling so close to the handlebar clamp, since it's going to be a loaded zone. Rather I'd 3d print a cover which attachs underneath and covers off the cables
In the 70s and 80s, my dad was a major 'recycler". He often went to the local garbage dump and brought things home to tinker with.
He brought a car wheel home one time, but the holes for the lugs weren't right for the car He wanted to put it on (my car).
So he redrilled it. Do you know what happened?
It formed cracks between the newly drilled holes and collapsed while I was driving. No one was hurt, but my father, who had a PhD and a masters too in another discipline, learned a valuable lesson.
Luke, don't be like my dad!
I agree. Don't follow Hambini's advice. The Stem is a critical item
I wouldn't risk my safety for minor appearances. There'd be no appreciable gain moving the hoses. Take a pass drilling the stem. My two cents. Great content, keep it coming.
Looks matter and the bend angle of the housing will actually improve
How should a failing cassette impair security? Even with no cassette installed you can still roll and brake.
The fact you bothered to ask if drilling the stem/bar was a good idea should tell you that it isn't.
That makes no sense.
I am 100kg, I have a feeling I will never need a lightweight bike, haha
Agreed
You might be pleasantly surprised how a 7KG bike feels like. I had a 7.8kg bike and weight weenied it to 7KG. The feel is like night and day. Try it.
@@Runner9264placebo
@@Runner9264Yes exactly. Trying to ride on a lightweight bike provides a completely different feeling than before. I definitely recommend to try riding a lightweight bike.
Yeah dont bother with anything but lighter tires and rims, the rest wont make any difference
Just saw those on ali yesterday and thought "hopefully Luke will make a video about them" and here we are😄
FSA makes a stem that will do what you want. The FSA SMR. There are two of them. One has a cover than goes under the stem that the cables go through. They can be found easily on sale for about $85 USD.
I dont know on drilling the stem. Would be worried about micro fractures from the drilling, plus the holes might be abrasive on the cables? 🥖🥖🥖
Just drill them similarly to have manufacturers drill them. No need to leave the edges sharp
Used a cheap one block 11-36 11speed cassette from AlieXpress during the Transpyrenees bikepacking race: worked well enough for a +1000 km race but not nearly as well as a hyperglide Shimano cassette.
Link please
@@Ninja_Revenge it was the Goldix ultralight 11 speed cassette 11-36.
@@Ninja_Revenge UA-cam doesn’t accept links sadly.
Please dont tinker around with drilling holes. I am a mechanical engineer and have been cycling for the past 40 years. Done a lot of b=?)/=)t to my bikes, but would never ever consider modifying or tuning or doing anything to a stem or a handlebar. If that breaks you are in big trouble. If you really want to hide that inch or two of cable showing, get some other funky cockpit off Ali and show us that instead.
That stem seems so masively overkill in terms of thickness, I would personally feel comfortable with drilling small holes to pass the brake lines. Hambini said it's ok too so go for it!
When you talk about drilling your stem I cringe 😳😳
I can feel my collar bone shattering 😖
Don't drill a chinese stem if you value your face...
The "Recon One-Piece Cassettes Al 11s 11-28T" should be lighter than the sprocket introduced here.
It weighs 117g.
However, since all the teeth of sprockets are aluminum, the lifespan will be short.
Those sheared teeth - probably a result of shifting under load. If you're really unlucky, you can bend a steel cog as well (not individual tooth, just a section of the sprocket)
Drill the stem! Hehe 😎👍🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖
if you do go ahead and drill it to pass the hoses internally, cut off the screw threads that extend into the stem. these will be rubbing against the hoses maybe and cause wear. Feeling around the interior for any sharp edges would be prudent as well.
Waiting for new reviews on road frames such as
1. Hygge model s
2. Spcycle
3. Onirii
can you review a cheap senda cleats shoes?
Don't drill it, please 😅...
I think my biggest concern is the splines, or should i say lack of splines, and the effect they would have on biting into the hub.
These Riro cassettes (products in general) do look really promising. However, I would love to see a XDR cassette that works with "normal" chains (Shimano, KMC, YBN).
ZTTO do sell one, however the rivets holding together the aluminium and the steel cogs have bad tollerances, which results in clicking noises ...
How about this new Riro cassette? Are the two parts bonded together flawlessly, or do they come loose over time as well?
Monoblock cassettes may sound nice idea but that takes away flexibility to replace individual sprockets or assemmble your own cassette with adjusted gearing. So you trade lightness of cassette for adjustability and maintenance. Oh, virtues of modern tech.....
Drill that stem. More likely than not, will be fine. Obviously, don't start drilling 20 holes in it.
Fwiw, I retired one of these alu and steel k7 after 5-8k km, the alu cogs started skipping. If you live on the flat and don't do hard low torque high power efforts, and wax your chain, I think you can get incredible life out of these k7.
I've just installed one of the these full steel monobloc. Paid 70 EUR for it. I'm still adjusting my RD for it as the spacing is a tiny bit different.
I like my SRAM red cassette, but it is ridiculously expensive. I tried Chinese alternatives before under the name RECON. But the shifting was terrible! And the 11T slipped right out the box. So I’m a little suspicious of Chinese brand stuff, the price is great but normally there is a reason for that. 🤷🏻♂️
No I personally wouldn’t drill the stem. It might be fine. But it’s not worth the risk, stems are 1 things you don’t mess with. There are plenty of other things you can drill on a bike, but components that directly support your weight should never be tampered with.
Yeah, I'm no engineer Luke, but I really wouldn't drill into the stem. It's aluminium, so it would probably work, but it's not worth the risk.
I actually bought this cassette after it was namedropped in your previous video -- super disappointed with the one I received, impossible to get it shifting properly. Going from 5th-6th cog or vice versa is super janky no matter how well adjusted the derailleur. At best you get to choose which direction is worse. This is with a Dura Ace R9100 drivetrain, a brand new chain, and a perfectly aligned hanger. Drives me bonkers. Way worse than the Ultegra cassette it replaced and shifts worse than the Sunshine cassette on my trainer. Don't recommend it to anyone unfortunately
i am going into the opposite direction. i am trying to find big and heavy casettes. want big gear range and durable casette. 😀
Sunrace is a good option for budget, quality and recent weights when you go with there alloy spider versions.
Use good lube, shift kindly, and replace your chain before it's worn.
Send it!! What's the worst that can happen? (please ride with a Go Pro every time on the bike) 😉
Why are there almost no 10 speed cassettes on Aliexpress though? Even the heavier stuff is now disappearing. It's easier to get 8 speed stuff!
I wouldn't drill the stem or the carbon handlebar. The stem is probably less concerning, but I would have to think there is a significant risk that drilling the carbon (especially so close to the stem) could lead to a structural failure. If that catches you on a descent or in a group of people, you're not going to have a good time.
With such cassette, you always trade the low weight for the fact that it is harder to adjust and significantly louder.
This is because it is a single block or semi. Chain noises are directly transmitted through the freewheel of the wheel to the axle and frame.
Even SRAM had to realize this and added rubber spacers between the sprockets on the Force cassette.
Maybe you can add such at this too?
I won't risk drilling it, you won't know what failure points you are adding to the stem. 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖
I just remembered the Neutron Cassette that China Cycling reviewed at the Shanghai Bike Show. Riro had the same material construction as a neutron.
Got 2 11s SPEDAO cassettes from ali for a total of 60 eu. 11-28: 190g / 11-32: 230g. Still have to test them out but for the price was a no brainer, plus all steel
I've got one of those on the way too. They look to be a rip-off of the SROAD ones, which have disappeared for some reason. Maybe patent infringement or something? It's a shame there's no 10 speed option though
Nothing wrong with this review BUT It is amazing how cassette weight and hub sound boost the popularity of these unreliable parts. Just goes to show how void of satisfaction cyclists have become from pure riding. Shimano is no saint either after recalling Dura Ace and Ultegra cranks where the alloys act as a battery in wet conditions :) the Chinese would probably add an LED to the same thing and sell it as magical until it snaps under power (: 105 FTW!
drilling - NOPE
but I can try to make custom 3D spacers, printed with black ABS
Or ASA for the UV resistance
Hey up Luke.....would it be ok to ask a quick question? Ive got a dura ace (di2) groupset (9150...or 9140 - whichever the rim break version was) and im looking at a disc frame from velobuild with fully integrated cabling. My question is - will i have a nightmare with cable actuated hydraulic brakes? I know the cable routing doesn't sometimes play nice with cables. Just seems a shame to chuck the groupset in a cupboard.....and i'll be buggered if im forking out for dura ace di2 hydraulic shifters and calipers!! 🙃 Any advice greatly appreciated......Mike 🙂
Hey, SRAM used to sell missing teeth direct from the factory as a feature!
Got this cassette in 11-32, but will return it.
Shifting is pretty poor on my bike (90's steel frame, Ultegra R8000 groupset, YBN SLA chain), light years behind a Shimano or even a Campagnolo 11s cassette.
Maybe it would be better with a Shimano chain and another derailleur hanger's geometry (mine is a bit on the edge of general specifications), but I suspect cog's ramps to be poorly efficient.
Quality-wise it doesn't look very good neither, the spring washer on the lock ring is so thin it crumbled when installing the cassette...and it looks like you can tighten it forever, but I did stop to what looks like an acceptable torque by rule of thumb. Some reviews on forums are talking about alloy cogs being even weaker than standard alloy cogs (and it's still far weaker than steel), with occurences of broken teeth.
Will try the Goldix / Ztto ful steel cassette 🙂
Title of video is incorrect, the lightest cassette on Ali is the zitto 11-28 7 speed, only 130 grams. Full steel. I'm going to run it on my shortrack racing bike, with the SRAM 7 speed e shifter and an old short cage SRAM xo DH derailleur.
Routing the cables through a couple of inches of stem for.... neatness?? Just making work for yourself IMO. That'll be pretty hard and thick material I'd guess. And you'd likely be compromising the shift quality too? Life is too short mate.
Don't drill the stem, it's cast, cast doesn't like that and has a tendency to stress fracture and crack, not worth the risk. Also, the bolt cover/cowling at the back lines up with and clips into the spacers, So I think it would look terrible anyway. The boxy shape of those stems trick you into thinking they are "chunky" when in fact they aren't much wider at the clamp than many other stems, and the bars look fine on any standard boxy stem, like those boxy Carbon stems all over AliExpress and eBay sold under various brands like EC90, Balugoe and even (naughty, naughty) ROVAL .
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as a welder with machining experience I think you would be ok drilling two holes if you use this as a road bike not a gravel bike. you are pretty light I would probably not do this myself as I am a heavyweight
SRAM XG cassette largest cog is aluminum. Gotta say i just installed the mono block cassette, excellent shifting.
Please try something in 12 speed 😅 i need to know if the gears are fine using a 12speed casete hehe thankyou
I decided that I'm done with steel/aluminium hybrid cassettes on road bikes. I mean they're probably fine if you barely ever use the climbing gears. But then again, if you live in a flat area, why bother with weight savings like these? And if you do actually climb a lot on steeper gradients and put out a bit of power then they're likely not gonna last long. I weigh 80+ kg and on steep gradients I have to push north of 300 watts just to keep moving and not fall over. One of those cheap steel/alu hybrids lasted less than 3000k before the alu cogs started skipping. Absolutely useless stuff.
The risk versus the gain in drilling holes in a load bearing box section is too high imo. Ask peak torque!
Do you think that the Aluminium cassette parts have had a DLC applied (diamond like costing)? That would help with durability, but I expect that its a relatively expensive operation.
from an engineering perspective your simplification "AL is not so great for durability" is really based on a huge misconception. Yes steel is harder than aluminum. However right treated aluminium can be much harder than cheap steel. 2024 the idea of aluminium not being great for durability is not applicable. With the right treatment this aluminum sprocket could be much more durable than a steel one.
Interesting options, unfortunately there aren’t 10s options. I’ve been searching for this kind of cassette but they are commonly 11s/12s 🤕
Drill sloooowly !
oil and or water the drill tip,
drill threw an ice cube is one of those hacks,
limite heat, impacts and side mouvements with the drill.
it should be fine if it is chunky, but its one of those torsional areas that can take quite a lot of stress and end up pretty catastrophic.
surgery won't be cheap or painless, it would be way better to treat yourself with a full one piece carbon cockpit ;)
transitioning your UA-cam vlogging to surgery would not be valuable to aliexpress or us either.
How can I tell on Aliexpress what the length is on the RIRO crankset? The teeth are clear but I don't really see the length options. Ah they are all 170mm and the options are just the various teeth.
The Recon aluminium Monoblock cassette is only 117g, but the durability is not great.
Why would you drill the stem twice, only to run cables for 11cm internally? Is it so unacceptable to have the cables routed externally from the handle bar to the cap above the steering bearing?
Odd that you are searching for a lightweight cassette and then put on a stem that looks like it came from "cycle king". Don't be stupid, you're a father now. x
Is there any xdr 12s cassettes available to replace SRAM force that doesn’t cost an arm
This cassette might destroy your freehub body as the force you are puttting in is only adapted on two places of the whole cassette. It only puts through force on the two largest cogs and two smallest ones. So only on 4 out of 11 instead of all 11 like in a "normal" cassette.
Nothing wrong with aluminium on the lower gear sprockets. The load is spread over more teeth. Must admit I thought SRAM and Shimano both do this
I don't think couple holes in stem would cause any problem but I would check how this stem will look with standard spacers because it may look like shit. :P
You can buy a new stem when/ if you leave the hospital! Don't do it! If it were a good idea the manufacturer would already do it.
Sounds like a lot of work to drill holes and then worry about the cables being slowly chewed away… I’d leave it as you won’t see the underside of the stem when you are on the bike 🤷🏻♂️
Cassettes is the only part I don’t get from a China company. They don’t shift as smooth as the name brand ones.
I got the Riro cassette on my dura ace di 2 11 speed and it’s impossible to calibrate it to an reliable level of shifting. Returning it. Weight to price ration was too good to be true.
Anyone's got a good alternative for 12S Force/Red XDR Cassettes?
Why don't these companies just copy the Shimano HG tooth and ramp shape? The patent has long ago expired, right?
Do you have review on AliExpress Shimano knock off spd-SL pedals?
As an engineer and also a Dad I would not do it. On the other videos ppl told u to build a 1by bike with that frame, do you consider doing so? 🥖 🥖 🥖
Hi sir,!! do you think this would work with a Eagle GX 12 speed rear derailler!!!?
Is there not a rear facing hole at the center of the clamping area of the handlebar + a corresponding hole in the stem, allowing the hose/cable to route w/o drilling. if these exist, why not go the full internal route?
Build a TWITTER brand T1100 Aero frame please Its the real deal.
Why not just 3d print a custom spacer and use the stem as it was intended baguettes 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖
Nice work! Do you review any mountain bike components from China?
Leave that stem alone ,save your face if it snaps at high speed,after you must have torque across bar width?,stay safe bro
Personally wouldn't drill holes in a stem but why not just get a stem that works properly without all the hassle?
hole in the bars as per every other manufacturer behind the stem and run the cables through the stem that way
please do not drill holes in your stem, we need you to be alive in order to review these things. maybe buy a stem with integrated cable mounts instead?
Drilling holes in your components is not the best idea in my opinion. Good luck if you try, though!
I would be more concerned about the carbon cutting the tubes over time. Might want to use some grommet inserts if you do that.
Just get a stem with those holes already in in. Yishun's stem are like that...
I would not drill either the stem of the handle bar. It sounds too risky for only a little of a cosmetic gain!
This cockpit is already so clean please don't drill it, it's not worth the aero or look gains...
Don't drill holes into parts that you are betting your life on....
Probably not worth drilling unless you are getting new set of teeth already😂
350 for the sram red cassete? Is it platinum? Gold?
lots of stress on stems especially on long climbs - DON"T do it!!
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I would not drill it seen it snap before you can get stems I had one snap in 3 places on a ride not a happy ending
I’ll stick with my 10 speed Tiagra cassette 😅
Please, a detailed video of crankset. Thank you
yup, you'll compromise the strength of the stem if you drill next to the steerer tube. You can test it by putting 4x or 5x the expected weight and see what happens, all my stems could probably handle 300lbs being gently set on to them. use a test base (2x4's upside down fork) and use a old steel steering tube/fork. Engineer the test platform so if you don't have weights, use your body weight and garbage bags filled with water, and only fall an inch, not 36. I'd like to see the test! Actually, I've been thinking, your handle bar will probably fail before that stem. Just stay close to the center, away from the corners or edge.🥐🥐
Alloy cassettes are junk throw it in the trash
Drill those holes !! make it fit, don't ride it. lol or do a propper stress test idk
If 2 small holes far enough apart you should be ok.
My sram 9s cassette 12-23 also weighs 199g :-)
Not sure if drilling will case cracks in your stem
Anyone tried the SPEDAO for mtb?
Can you post the link for the ztto cassette? Thanks