Nice! I've had nightmares about those QFN chips and reading guides about using hot air and ovens just left me feeling more reluctant to try it. This video makes it look a lot easier.
Was the same for me. But I just wanted to build this. So I naively went forward… and got surprised myself about how easy it is. You only need to make sure that the chip is placed accurately. The rest is easy-peasy.
@@TOILmodular job done good! I was initially looking at the TINRS modules which use these chips extensively. They're worth a look when you run out of mutable instruments to make.
Interesting to hear that my music gives a scary impression. I didn’t realize. Nice to get such feedback, thanks. But indeed, the soldering is not difficult. Give it a try.
Hi TOIL, I've completed the build. No problem with programming, and the STM chip is running - LED's, buttons, pots, etc seem to 'do things', however I cannot get any sound out of L OUT/R OUT as you demonstrated in the video with no other inputs or effects - its totally silent, and I have selected Granular mode. You mention 'feedback is set to maximum' - what do you mean by this ?
Hi Texy, the amount of feedback is set by the Blending parameter button (button B in the original manual) and the Blend knob. Push the button until the 3rd LED from the left is lit. That is for feedback. Turn the knob fully clockwise. I did not explicitly mention that you also have to set the output to fully wet. That is done by going to the mix parameter. Push the button until the left LED is lit and turn the Blend knob again fully clockwise. That should do the trick. You might have to wait a few seconds until any noise in the circuit gets multiplied by the feedback loop.
It works the same with both firmwares. I used the original one in the video. Did you test the module with sound at the input? Is there any of the connections at the WM8731 not soldered properly? Or did you not set the output to fully wet?
Im having a very similar problem no output at all. I get the blinkies to light up and I checked the wm8731 under the microscope and im fairly certain its connected
I built this but I'm having problem with any audio coming out at all. I programmed the chip and im fairly certain both ICs are in i popped it all under my microscope and it looks solid. Is there any way this could be a problem on the control board I used the thonk one
I don't think that this is an issue with the PCBs, because I got feedback from others, who built the module successfully with the Thonk version. So I would assume an issue with a component. My first guess would be some problem with the WM8731 audio codec chip. Did you use the SSOP28 version or the QFN version? In case of the SSOP28 version, might it be that the chip is not ok? As I mentioned in the video, that chip is not available anymore from official suppliers. Maybe you got a broken or fake one? If you use the QFN version, there might be a failing connection with some of the pads. It is very important for that chip to be placed exactly on the pads. You might want to reflow the solder points by putting some solder on your iron pin and run once more along the chip edges. Another idea would be to replace the other ICs and see if that works.
I find clouds a very complicated module. I made one but i am not sure if it is working correctly. Did you have a simple way of testing it once finished? I have made filters and oscillators before and they were easy to make and setup / test by comparison. I jtag programmed it and also volt/ oct calibrated any ideas? Cheers for the videos.
Yess, Clouds is not really an easy-access module. You can start by checking the buttons and the correct reactions by the LEDs, e.g. the freeze button. Then send an audio signal into the module and check for any output. Check the attenuator (most left side knob). It should reduce the signal level, but not totally to zero. Send some melody into it, e.g. from a sequencer and push the freeze button to capture a sample. Play around with the knobs and check if you get weird sounds. Then things should work. To understand all this, you have to dive into the manual from MI
Thank you very much for your MI Clone project series! This is awesome! However, I hesitate to start because the making of the panels based on just the hole coordinates feels very difficult. I installed Inkscape and the Svg2Shenzhen plugin + KiCad. Do you think this is a good start?
Glad to hear that you like it. I fear I cannot comment on this plugin and KiCad, since I do not know them. I always try to keep it simple, so I created all my front panels from PCB material. I design them together with the circuit PCBs in EasyEDA. Doing that, I can precisely position the holes. I mentioned it briefly in one of my other videos about PCB design. You might want to consider that method.
@@TOILmodular Ok, I invested some time in playing around with Inkscape and used 30350n/printable-instruments (github) as a template for the Clouds panel. Your coordinates enabled me to adjust the whole panel. It´s in production right now. Let´s see if everything worked out. But I am optimistic. All the other stuff for soldering Clouds is on the way too. Will be my first SMD soldering. 🤞 Thanks a lot!
@@TOILmodular I bought the QFN version from the same seller as you did. In your video it looks pretty easy to solder. It almost seems like the solder is sucked up, like it would be a capillary effect.
Following your videos and currently constructing the clouds module, I would really appreciate if you could assist me. List the minimal components needed to power and program the chip. Having soldered the STM32 on the board, I would like to program it before proceeding. I appreciate your help.
Sure, no problem. For the programming you only need the main board, forget about the control PCB for that. You will find several caps around the STM chip to be soldered, THT and SMD. Solder the two 22uF, the one 1uF (both THT), and the five 0,1uF (SMD) caps. On the right side, solder the 8MHz crystal oscillator and the two 18pF THT cpas next to it. Below the STM chip, solder the two BOOT pins and the 10K resistor below them. On the lower left side of the PCB, you find the programming interface pins. If you use UART, just solder those pins. If you use JTAG, you also have to solder the 10K resistor. But I did not try out that interface. I only followed the schematics from MI for that. I used UART. Then we have to take care of the power supply. For that, you need to solder the two SMD 1117 regulators, the two SMD 0.1uF caps and the three 47uF caps next to them. For the power connection, solder the pins at the PCB bottom center together with the two 1N5819 protection diodes and the two 47uF caps. That's it for being able to program the thing. Let me know, if you have questions or problems.
@TOILmodular Thanks so much for taking the time to answer my request. I know you're a busy guy, and it is well appreciated. This is my first MI board. I have started with the main chip, with it being the hardest, in my opinion. I thought if I could do this one, the others are going to be easy to do it with a cheap and nasty soldering iron. The resistors are well tiny. I love your videos and sound, some real talent you have.
Thanks a lot! I also do not use a very fancy expensive iron. The important thing is to use flux. Then you can solder really tiny stuff with some patience and a calm hand. Good luck with the build and have fun with the module.
Nice! I've had nightmares about those QFN chips and reading guides about using hot air and ovens just left me feeling more reluctant to try it. This video makes it look a lot easier.
Was the same for me. But I just wanted to build this. So I naively went forward… and got surprised myself about how easy it is. You only need to make sure that the chip is placed accurately. The rest is easy-peasy.
@@TOILmodular job done good! I was initially looking at the TINRS modules which use these chips extensively. They're worth a look when you run out of mutable instruments to make.
TINRS modules are not open source. Or are they?
Yeah, I heard the scary music and thought "oh no, I can't solder that" but you made it look easy. 😀
Interesting to hear that my music gives a scary impression. I didn’t realize. Nice to get such feedback, thanks. But indeed, the soldering is not difficult. Give it a try.
Hi TOIL,
I've completed the build. No problem with programming, and the STM chip is running - LED's, buttons, pots, etc seem to 'do things', however I cannot get any sound out of L OUT/R OUT as you demonstrated in the video with no other inputs or effects - its totally silent, and I have selected Granular mode. You mention 'feedback is set to maximum' - what do you mean by this ?
Hi Texy, the amount of feedback is set by the Blending parameter button (button B in the original manual) and the Blend knob. Push the button until the 3rd LED from the left is lit. That is for feedback. Turn the knob fully clockwise. I did not explicitly mention that you also have to set the output to fully wet. That is done by going to the mix parameter. Push the button until the left LED is lit and turn the Blend knob again fully clockwise. That should do the trick. You might have to wait a few seconds until any noise in the circuit gets multiplied by the feedback loop.
@@TOILmodular still nothing - is this with the MI firmware or the alternative parasite firmware ?
It works the same with both firmwares. I used the original one in the video. Did you test the module with sound at the input? Is there any of the connections at the WM8731 not soldered properly? Or did you not set the output to fully wet?
Im having a very similar problem no output at all. I get the blinkies to light up and I checked the wm8731 under the microscope and im fairly certain its connected
I built this but I'm having problem with any audio coming out at all. I programmed the chip and im fairly certain both ICs are in i popped it all under my microscope and it looks solid. Is there any way this could be a problem on the control board I used the thonk one
I don't think that this is an issue with the PCBs, because I got feedback from others, who built the module successfully with the Thonk version.
So I would assume an issue with a component.
My first guess would be some problem with the WM8731 audio codec chip.
Did you use the SSOP28 version or the QFN version?
In case of the SSOP28 version, might it be that the chip is not ok? As I mentioned in the video, that chip is not available anymore from official suppliers. Maybe you got a broken or fake one?
If you use the QFN version, there might be a failing connection with some of the pads.
It is very important for that chip to be placed exactly on the pads.
You might want to reflow the solder points by putting some solder on your iron pin and run once more along the chip edges.
Another idea would be to replace the other ICs and see if that works.
I find clouds a very complicated module. I made one but i am not sure if it is working correctly. Did you have a simple way of testing it once finished? I have made filters and oscillators before and they were easy to make and setup / test by comparison. I jtag programmed it and also volt/ oct calibrated any ideas? Cheers for the videos.
Yess, Clouds is not really an easy-access module. You can start by checking the buttons and the correct reactions by the LEDs, e.g. the freeze button. Then send an audio signal into the module and check for any output. Check the attenuator (most left side knob). It should reduce the signal level, but not totally to zero. Send some melody into it, e.g. from a sequencer and push the freeze button to capture a sample. Play around with the knobs and check if you get weird sounds. Then things should work. To understand all this, you have to dive into the manual from MI
@@TOILmodular HI thanks a lot for this, take it easy.
Thank you very much for your MI Clone project series! This is awesome! However, I hesitate to start because the making of the panels based on just the hole coordinates feels very difficult. I installed Inkscape and the Svg2Shenzhen plugin + KiCad. Do you think this is a good start?
Glad to hear that you like it. I fear I cannot comment on this plugin and KiCad, since I do not know them. I always try to keep it simple, so I created all my front panels from PCB material. I design them together with the circuit PCBs in EasyEDA. Doing that, I can precisely position the holes. I mentioned it briefly in one of my other videos about PCB design. You might want to consider that method.
@@TOILmodular Ok, I invested some time in playing around with Inkscape and used 30350n/printable-instruments (github) as a template for the Clouds panel. Your coordinates enabled me to adjust the whole panel. It´s in production right now. Let´s see if everything worked out. But I am optimistic. All the other stuff for soldering Clouds is on the way too. Will be my first SMD soldering. 🤞 Thanks a lot!
Sounds great. I am curious: Are you using the QFN or the SSOP version of the WM8731?
@@TOILmodular I bought the QFN version from the same seller as you did. In your video it looks pretty easy to solder. It almost seems like the solder is sucked up, like it would be a capillary effect.
@@TOILmodular you know, you could also supply the front panel gerbers, rather than the hole size and positions in a table right ?
Following your videos and currently constructing the clouds module, I would really appreciate if you could assist me. List the minimal components needed to power and program the chip. Having soldered the STM32 on the board, I would like to program it before proceeding. I appreciate your help.
Sure, no problem. For the programming you only need the main board, forget about the control PCB for that. You will find several caps around the STM chip to be soldered, THT and SMD. Solder the two 22uF, the one 1uF (both THT), and the five 0,1uF (SMD) caps. On the right side, solder the 8MHz crystal oscillator and the two 18pF THT cpas next to it. Below the STM chip, solder the two BOOT pins and the 10K resistor below them. On the lower left side of the PCB, you find the programming interface pins. If you use UART, just solder those pins. If you use JTAG, you also have to solder the 10K resistor. But I did not try out that interface. I only followed the schematics from MI for that. I used UART. Then we have to take care of the power supply. For that, you need to solder the two SMD 1117 regulators, the two SMD 0.1uF caps and the three 47uF caps next to them. For the power connection, solder the pins at the PCB bottom center together with the two 1N5819 protection diodes and the two 47uF caps. That's it for being able to program the thing. Let me know, if you have questions or problems.
@TOILmodular Thanks so much for taking the time to answer my request. I know you're a busy guy, and it is well appreciated. This is my first MI board. I have started with the main chip, with it being the hardest, in my opinion. I thought if I could do this one, the others are going to be easy to do it with a cheap and nasty soldering iron. The resistors are well tiny. I love your videos and sound, some real talent you have.
Thanks a lot! I also do not use a very fancy expensive iron. The important thing is to use flux. Then you can solder really tiny stuff with some patience and a calm hand. Good luck with the build and have fun with the module.