Very interesting exercise with the lens. Thank you. Loved the foam in the coffee. Wish you showed a closer view of the focus point of foam pit. Great work as always!
Hi MP. Thanks for the great video! I am up to buy a new lens for my Leica (SL2-S and/or M10-P). I am not sure what to buy, the APO-Summicron-SL f2 90mm ASPH or the M-lens APO-Summicron-M f2 90mm ASPH. I already have the Summilux-M 35mil and 50mil and the APO-Summicron-SL ASPH 35mm. Do you have experience in both and what do you prefer. I know the M-lens is cheaper and I can use it on both my M10-P and SL2-S (with the M-adapter-L), but I don't care if I can only use the SL on my SL2-S if this lens is better qua picture quality, emotion, ... The advantage with the SL is also autofocus, but I don't care the manual focus only with the M-lenses. Of course the Summilux-M f1.5 ASPH 90mm is superior, but for that money I can buy the Summicron 90mm M and SL together and have money left to hire a model! Thanks in advance! Bob
Great video. I personally always use with all lenses from 75mm and above the Viewfinder Magnifier, otherwise it strains the eye and or missing the focus and that is no fun 😀
Hello Matt, In your opinion, how would you compare this against the Leica Noctilux-M 75mm, f/1.25? If you have experience with that lens as well, I'd really like to hear your thoughts. I am saving up to buy my Leica M-10 Monochrom along with a 35mm Summilux-M, but will also look at a longer focal length. So I've been considering that 75mm as an accompaniment. What do you think?
Interested in the same question. I shoot M10M w/75 Noct regularly and took a few 90 Lux test shots at the Leica Store but would be interested in more comparisons.
I did not shoot the Noctilux 75mm yet so cannot compare. I guess it is equally nice. If I am not mistaken, Matt Granger has a good review on UA-cam where he explores the 75mm Noctilux. He does not compare it with my lens but what he says about the Noctilux 75mm sounds very promising. You will love your M10 Mono when you have it in your hands, a fantastic camera!
I really liked the images, particularly the portraits. For street does the bulk of the lens and I presume the obstruction in the OVF count against it? My big Q on all of this is the cost. I recently bought a medium format GFX50R with a few lenses including the GF110mm f2. The “pop” this lens is capable of creating is very special. The cost of my entire system is less than an M10R body (used or new).
Nice review. You did a good job of showing the results of zone focusing using the graphs and portraits. How well do face/eye detection work with this lens? Likewise for focus peaking? And results of focusing with and without a visoflex? There's a lot to consider when thinking about the purchase of a $13K, hard-to-focus at wide apertures lens. Thanks for the good intro and overview.
On Leica rangefinders I switch between optical rangefinder and Visoflex, latter mentioned mainly for "live exposure preview" in more difficult light situations, less due to problems with sharpness. Rangefinder focussing is very precise and also gives you that "original" feeling of taking a photo :) Thanks for your positive comment.
Thanks for the video. Is there a big difference between the 75 1.25 Noctilux and this lens, in terms of sharpness and bokeh? Aside from the 15mm difference, is it worth getting if you have the 75 1.25? Thank you!!
I love my Noctilux .95 50mm so much that I want to get all 3 lenses from the same family.. I believe this lens is more or less a similar design and only got the Summilux name due to the 1.5 f
Hard to say, I personally think the lens has a special character but is it really necessary to have it in addition to a 90mm f/2 which you already have? Likely not if you are not after that extra quantum of quality many people might not even see in a photo if you show it around. If "Upgrading" means selling the current lens and getting the new lens, then it is a question of whether you want to allow yourself such costly luxury. I personally love the lens and do not regret to have spent the money for it. If people do not have a 90mm at all, then this one is clearly a desirable premium lens. Best wishes for your decision.
@@mathphotographer Thanks for the reply. As one who uses the M10 and M6 to shoot with wide-angles more than telephotos, I think I will pass on replacing my 90mm f/2 with the 90mm f/1.5.
Thanks a lot for the video, great review and great sample images! I probably will not get this lens quite yet (I'm still a student so I don't really earn any money yet 😂) but it is absolutely stunning. I always love your shots, but I have a question. I live in Switzerland and I really am having a hard time doing street photography at home. Do you have any tips?
Hi Joel, when I was a student, my camera was an old used one and I nevertheless enjoyed it :) Thanks a lot for your kind and nice comments. When you say "street photography at home", the cities are open again post-COVID, just go out and shoot. There is always something interesting to see and shoot, no matter where you are. I will post a video in summer on "story telling with photography", will provide lots of tips, maybe it helps.
@@mathphotographer thanks a lot for the tip. I am very fortunate to have been able to play my cards right and purchase a second hand M10 and 3 great lenses. I have my camera with me at all times. I will definitely go out and shoot more in the streets this summer! I can't wait for that upcoming video too!
A very interesting video. Thanks a lot. I had one question. The 90mm is a very expensive lens. Do you use an ultraviolet filter to protect the lens? If not, why not?
Perfect focusing of long (i.e. 90 mm) glass on a rangfinder camera isn't a matter of expertise but mainly of perfect matching between camera and lens. I’d state that focusing a 90 mm at 1.5 is asking too much to the mechanical coupling between an M camera and the lens. Even at 2.8, I have to send my camera and my 90 mm Elmarit for calibration every 2 or 3 years. That's why now I use it mainly on a Nikon Z7 (OMG!) Buying very fast and expensive leica glass, doesn't make sense if you don't shoot it wide open most of the time. The depth of field of this summilux 90 mm whide open is so shallow that I can’t see any situation where it is useful, certainly not in portrait photography.
I sometimes switch between optical rangefinder and electronic viewfinder to get "live exposure preview". That's likely what you've seen. In some of my Leica videos I actually show the electronic viewfinder during unboxing the gear for later use. In general I prefer optical rangefinder but if the light gets difficult, the electronic viewfinder on hot shoe helps a lot.
Does anyone watching this (or the person who posted this video) happen to know if Leica has made any comment on why they did not incorporate phase detect in this body? It just seems weird considering how much the camera costs, the year it was released, and the fact that phase detect seems like an obvious choice for a brand who likes to fancy themselves makers of caneras that don’t get in the way of the experience. Having only contrast detect and not phase detect sort of causes problems for wedding photographers, wildlife photogs, sports photogs, and some family photogs (when shooting pics of unruly children). So why? Anyone have any insight as to why they made this choice?
What do you mean by "focus shift"? If your question is whether the lens is well calibrated w.r.t. its distance scale, the answer is yes. Otherwise focus shift is typically only discussed in the context of autofocus lenses (front focus, back focus) and this lens has no autofocus, focus is taken manually.
@@mathphotographer Focus shift is a phenomenon when focussing a lens wide open and then closing down to actually take the image. Setting the distance, focussing at f2 and taking the image at f4. The actual point focus of many prime lenses moves then to the front or back of the actual point of focus.
Seriously, I do not believe that one can successfully use the 90 mm f1.5 and get good focused images. I used an M6 with the 35 mm f2, 50 mm f2 in the 1990s
I agree with you completely. To accurately focus any of Leica's Noctilux lenses wide open you absolutely have to use those lenses in combination with Leica's EVF (Electronic Viewfinder). Even WITH the EVF in use, such shots are frustratingly difficult.
I agree, it is difficult and requires concentration. I did shoot the Noctilux successfully at 0.95 with rangefinder focussing (without Visoflex / electronic viewfinder). I use the Visoflex - when I use it - mainly for "live exposure preview" in difficult light environment, not because of sharpness. But what maybe helps me and what you might missing: I use a diopter (magnification) glass (screwed right on the optical viewfinder) from Leica on my cameras. This enlarges/magnifies the rangefinder focussing elements and makes it easier to focus even with wide-open aperture.
Yes Paul, agree. Today's Leica SL2 or also Sony A7R IV are certainly (besides sensor size and even shallower DoF based on sensor size) better than medium format some years ago. Having said that, nothing comes close to the image quality of my Phase One IQ4. This is currently my highest benchmark when I really need the last quantum of quality to be squeezed out for a client shooting.
Hey, you are Making Good Videos on the technical stuff, but man your choice of music is mesmerizing bad. If you like give epidemicsound a shot and it will boost the music quality of your videos. Or if you don’t like, give us the Opportunity to kill one of the channels, so that we can enjoy your voice and put on some classical stuff or rock. Only for some of the videos. 🥳 thanxs
Hmm what could i buy with a spare 20k aud GFX100S 110mm F2, 80mm 1.7 & maybe even a wide angle lens aswell. Leica have rocks in their heads i'll keep my 85mm 1.4L IS...
For the price of this lens, you have a brand new SL2 + 90 summicron SL and you even save $1000. Hard to prefer this summilux alone. Even for a M shooter like me.
I’m going to be very honest here.... the photographs here are fantastic just as expected from Leica camera and lens.... but, I can achieve almost identical shots from my Panasonic LUMIX GX9 set on the latest mono setting.... especially when I use my Panasonic/Leica AF lenses.... there is one Leica user on UA-cam who’s’ third camera is a GX9 for this reason....he too sees little difference... except for the M4/3 sensor .
I fully agree that you can shoot fantastic images with a M4/3 sensor. Actually, a good photographer might get better images out of a M4/3 camera than an average photographer with a full frame camera. The photographer makes the image, not the camera. The reason why I am nevertheless shooting the much more expensive full and medium format cameras is that you have more options on DoF and in general on catching light. And the overall image impression is different from medium format to full frame and from full frame to M4/3. And I shoot for clients who want large prints. Packing 47MP on a M4/3 sensor will likely be more noisy if you shoot natively and not with the pixel shift as included in some M4/3 cameras. With my Phase One I shoot natively 150MP with low noise, impossible for a M4/3 sensor. But I do this because clients pay me for prints with 2m of side length. I think you can be perfectly happy with a good M4/3 camera, I had some in the past and only upgraded over the years due to client demand and even higher quality needs. Enjoy your Lumix, Panasonic makes terrific cameras. I shoot from time to time with the S1R, love it.
Agree. I did not compare the two lenses (might do in the future) but guess they come close. You win a bit on the slightly wider aperture but 90mm tele "per se" gives you a lot of background blur and nice bokeh.
mathphotographer Worth comparing. The 90 APO renders beautifully and for £1500-1800 S/H. I wonder just how much more bokeh you’re going to get for your bucks. I suspect it’s marginal at best. Fractional stop advantage is negated by IBIS on SL2. I suspect many of us use the M glass on SL bodies.
1. Difference between near and far objects depends on where you stand, not focal length. Tele do not compress. 2. May be a great lens, but the lenses are becoming not affordable. Also this one is too large.
I believe that this is an excellent portrait glass! But I guess, an portrait with fully openend aperture shows only one eye in sharp focus! Sorry, I personally cannot recommend this as an good portrait!
Super Linse. Gutes Video, wie andere von dir auch. Aber Englisch ist mir für Freizeitaktivitäten zu anstrengend. Du verschenkst schon etliche Abbos durch englisch. Ob das ausgeglichen wird? Doch sicherlich - sonst würdest du es nicht machen. Wünsche dir alles Gute für die Zukunft und noch viele Videos, aber ohne mich. Liebe Grüße Carsten VP
Hi Carsten, ich denke oft darüber nach, mal ein Video auf Deutsch zu machen. Allerdings spreche ich job-seitig nur Englisch und Englisch ist auch meine "Foto-Sprache", wenn Du verstehst, was ich meine. Viele Begriffe aus der Fotografie gehen mir auf Englisch leichter über die Lippen. Meine Viewer kommen ebenfalls mehrheitlich aus dem englischsprachigen Raum: USA, Australien, etc. Dazu kommt, dass meine Familie und mein Freundeskreis international ist. Einige Leute aus dem engen Freundes- und Familienkreis würden Deutsch "NullkommaNull" verstehen. Wäre aber echt schade, Wenn Du nicht mehr vorbeischauen würdest. Vielleicht mache ich auch mal ein Video auf Deutsch, extra für die Viewer, die wie Du lieber Deutsch hören. LG & Beste Wünsche - mathphotographer
Really informative video! Mrs Mathphotographer is even more beautiful with this lens! Thank you!
Thanks for the nice comment :)
Have you ever covered the 75mm Noctilux? I am honestly looking for another good review before purchasing.
Stunning street photos!! Love monochrome photography! Shoot quite a bit of black and white film on my Leica M-A!
Hey, thx!
Enjoyed this presentation and your view of street photography. Beautiful work. 👍
Thank you Pat.
Really beautiful pictures, especially the portret ones.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks Erik!
Very interesting exercise with the lens. Thank you. Loved the foam in the coffee. Wish you showed a closer view of the focus point of foam pit. Great work as always!
Thanks Roberto.
Hi MP. Thanks for the great video! I am up to buy a new lens for my Leica (SL2-S and/or M10-P). I am not sure what to buy, the APO-Summicron-SL f2 90mm ASPH or the M-lens APO-Summicron-M f2 90mm ASPH. I already have the Summilux-M 35mil and 50mil and the APO-Summicron-SL ASPH 35mm. Do you have experience in both and what do you prefer. I know the M-lens is cheaper and I can use it on both my M10-P and SL2-S (with the M-adapter-L), but I don't care if I can only use the SL on my SL2-S if this lens is better qua picture quality, emotion, ... The advantage with the SL is also autofocus, but I don't care the manual focus only with the M-lenses. Of course the Summilux-M f1.5 ASPH 90mm is superior, but for that money I can buy the Summicron 90mm M and SL together and have money left to hire a model! Thanks in advance! Bob
Great video. I personally always use with all lenses from 75mm and above the Viewfinder Magnifier, otherwise it strains the eye and or missing the focus and that is no fun 😀
Any idea how this lens would compare with an Otus 85 on adapter. ? Image wise….
Wonderful. Really enjoying seeing the images on the Monochrom
Very nice images, and always nice on an M10M. For your street photography what aperture(s) did you use ?
Between 1.5 and 5.6, depending on how much I wanted to separate foreground and background. Thanks for positive comments.
Hello Matt,
In your opinion, how would you compare this against the Leica Noctilux-M 75mm, f/1.25? If you have experience with that lens as well, I'd really like to hear your thoughts.
I am saving up to buy my Leica M-10 Monochrom along with a 35mm Summilux-M, but will also look at a longer focal length. So I've been considering that 75mm as an accompaniment.
What do you think?
Interested in the same question. I shoot M10M w/75 Noct regularly and took a few 90 Lux test shots at the Leica Store but would be interested in more comparisons.
I did not shoot the Noctilux 75mm yet so cannot compare. I guess it is equally nice. If I am not mistaken, Matt Granger has a good review on UA-cam where he explores the 75mm Noctilux. He does not compare it with my lens but what he says about the Noctilux 75mm sounds very promising. You will love your M10 Mono when you have it in your hands, a fantastic camera!
Hey Matt, thanks for all of the awesome M10M videos. If you’ve owned the 246, can you create a video comparing the two? Especially at base ISO
Thanks Vlad. I do own the Leica M Mono model 246 and did plan for a comparison but did not find the time yet. Will see if I can accelerate the review.
mathphotographer awesome! Looking forward to it! Thanks Matt
Good video Matt ;)
thx
I really liked the images, particularly the portraits. For street does the bulk of the lens and I presume the obstruction in the OVF count against it? My big Q on all of this is the cost. I recently bought a medium format GFX50R with a few lenses including the GF110mm f2. The “pop” this lens is capable of creating is very special. The cost of my entire system is less than an M10R body (used or new).
Nice review. You did a good job of showing the results of zone focusing using the graphs and portraits. How well do face/eye detection work with this lens? Likewise for focus peaking? And results of focusing with and without a visoflex? There's a lot to consider when thinking about the purchase of a $13K, hard-to-focus at wide apertures lens. Thanks for the good intro and overview.
On Leica rangefinders I switch between optical rangefinder and Visoflex, latter mentioned mainly for "live exposure preview" in more difficult light situations, less due to problems with sharpness. Rangefinder focussing is very precise and also gives you that "original" feeling of taking a photo :) Thanks for your positive comment.
No night scenes??
Love your works!
Thx!
I also own this lens and yet to have ever used it..
Thanks for the video. Is there a big difference between the 75 1.25 Noctilux and this lens, in terms of sharpness and bokeh? Aside from the 15mm difference, is it worth getting if you have the 75 1.25? Thank you!!
I have not had the 75mm Noctilux in use yet, sorry. When I get it, I will comment back to you.
I love my Noctilux .95 50mm so much that I want to get all 3 lenses from the same family.. I believe this lens is more or less a similar design and only got the Summilux name due to the 1.5 f
Beautiful video ! Good information too,
thx
Can you test the new SL2 firmware if they fixe the noise /hot pixel problem? Much thanks.
Done, watch my most recent video.
I have the 90mm f/2 Leitz. Is the performance of the 90mm f/1.5 really worth the upgrade price?
Hard to say, I personally think the lens has a special character but is it really necessary to have it in addition to a 90mm f/2 which you already have? Likely not if you are not after that extra quantum of quality many people might not even see in a photo if you show it around. If "Upgrading" means selling the current lens and getting the new lens, then it is a question of whether you want to allow yourself such costly luxury. I personally love the lens and do not regret to have spent the money for it. If people do not have a 90mm at all, then this one is clearly a desirable premium lens. Best wishes for your decision.
@@mathphotographer Thanks for the reply.
As one who uses the M10 and M6 to shoot with wide-angles more than telephotos, I think I will pass on replacing my 90mm f/2 with the 90mm f/1.5.
Thanks a lot for the video, great review and great sample images! I probably will not get this lens quite yet (I'm still a student so I don't really earn any money yet 😂) but it is absolutely stunning. I always love your shots, but I have a question. I live in Switzerland and I really am having a hard time doing street photography at home. Do you have any tips?
Hi Joel, when I was a student, my camera was an old used one and I nevertheless enjoyed it :) Thanks a lot for your kind and nice comments. When you say "street photography at home", the cities are open again post-COVID, just go out and shoot. There is always something interesting to see and shoot, no matter where you are. I will post a video in summer on "story telling with photography", will provide lots of tips, maybe it helps.
@@mathphotographer thanks a lot for the tip. I am very fortunate to have been able to play my cards right and purchase a second hand M10 and 3 great lenses. I have my camera with me at all times. I will definitely go out and shoot more in the streets this summer!
I can't wait for that upcoming video too!
Did you have your camera recalibrated when receiving the lens or used it as is?
Used as is, no recalibration.
A very interesting video. Thanks a lot. I had one question. The 90mm is a very expensive lens. Do you use an ultraviolet filter to protect the lens? If not, why not?
Spot-on comment, I use an original Leica protector. Using a cheap protector or cheap UV filter will kill the performance of the expensive optic.
@@mathphotographer what do you mean by "an original Leica protector"? Are you talking about the plastic lens cap?
Perfect focusing of long (i.e. 90 mm) glass on a rangfinder camera isn't a matter of expertise but mainly of perfect matching between camera and lens.
I’d state that focusing a 90 mm at 1.5 is asking too much to the mechanical coupling between an M camera and the lens. Even at 2.8, I have to send my camera and my 90 mm Elmarit for calibration every 2 or 3 years. That's why now I use it mainly on a Nikon Z7 (OMG!)
Buying very fast and expensive leica glass, doesn't make sense if you don't shoot it wide open most of the time. The depth of field of this summilux 90 mm whide open is so shallow that I can’t see any situation where it is useful, certainly not in portrait photography.
Looks like you have something mounted on your viewfinder. Diopter? Magnifier?
I sometimes switch between optical rangefinder and electronic viewfinder to get "live exposure preview". That's likely what you've seen. In some of my Leica videos I actually show the electronic viewfinder during unboxing the gear for later use. In general I prefer optical rangefinder but if the light gets difficult, the electronic viewfinder on hot shoe helps a lot.
@@mathphotographer OH I didn't mean the hotshoe EVF, I meant the OVF at 2:28 seems to have something added to it which made me curious :)
Does anyone watching this (or the person who posted this video) happen to know if Leica has made any comment on why they did not incorporate phase detect in this body? It just seems weird considering how much the camera costs, the year it was released, and the fact that phase detect seems like an obvious choice for a brand who likes to fancy themselves makers of caneras that don’t get in the way of the experience. Having only contrast detect and not phase detect sort of causes problems for wedding photographers, wildlife photogs, sports photogs, and some family photogs (when shooting pics of unruly children). So why? Anyone have any insight as to why they made this choice?
Excellent question, have asked myself too the question you raise. But have not found any meaningful answer yet.
Does this lens have focus shift?
What do you mean by "focus shift"? If your question is whether the lens is well calibrated w.r.t. its distance scale, the answer is yes. Otherwise focus shift is typically only discussed in the context of autofocus lenses (front focus, back focus) and this lens has no autofocus, focus is taken manually.
@@mathphotographer Focus shift is a phenomenon when focussing a lens wide open and then closing down to actually take the image. Setting the distance, focussing at f2 and taking the image at f4. The actual point focus of many prime lenses moves then to the front or back of the actual point of focus.
Seriously, I do not believe that one can successfully use the 90 mm f1.5 and get good focused images. I used an M6 with the 35 mm f2, 50 mm f2 in the 1990s
I agree with you completely. To accurately focus any of Leica's Noctilux lenses wide open you absolutely have to use those lenses in combination with Leica's EVF (Electronic Viewfinder). Even WITH the EVF in use, such shots are frustratingly difficult.
I agree, it is difficult and requires concentration. I did shoot the Noctilux successfully at 0.95 with rangefinder focussing (without Visoflex / electronic viewfinder). I use the Visoflex - when I use it - mainly for "live exposure preview" in difficult light environment, not because of sharpness. But what maybe helps me and what you might missing: I use a diopter (magnification) glass (screwed right on the optical viewfinder) from Leica on my cameras. This enlarges/magnifies the rangefinder focussing elements and makes it easier to focus even with wide-open aperture.
Your model would be crazy not to like those. One thing is apparent to me, the modern high end Leica lenses bring a medium format feel to 35mm. Agree?
Yes Paul, agree. Today's Leica SL2 or also Sony A7R IV are certainly (besides sensor size and even shallower DoF based on sensor size) better than medium format some years ago. Having said that, nothing comes close to the image quality of my Phase One IQ4. This is currently my highest benchmark when I really need the last quantum of quality to be squeezed out for a client shooting.
Love leica
"decolonize ch" what does that even mean?
Hey, you are Making Good Videos on the technical stuff, but man your choice of music is
mesmerizing bad. If you like give epidemicsound a shot and it will boost the music quality of your videos. Or if you don’t like, give us the Opportunity to kill one of the channels, so that we can enjoy your voice and put on some classical stuff or rock. Only for some of the videos. 🥳 thanxs
is there is an opportunity to study with you 1-on-1 online?
Hmm what could i buy with a spare 20k aud GFX100S 110mm F2, 80mm 1.7 & maybe even a wide angle lens aswell. Leica have rocks in their heads i'll keep my 85mm 1.4L IS...
For the price of this lens, you have a brand new SL2 + 90 summicron SL and you even save $1000.
Hard to prefer this summilux alone. Even for a M shooter like me.
2:47: Zoomring?
Slipper :) Noted it in the infobox below the video with an asterisk.
I’m going to be very honest here.... the photographs here are fantastic just as expected from Leica camera and lens.... but, I can achieve almost identical shots from my Panasonic LUMIX GX9 set on the latest mono setting.... especially when I use my Panasonic/Leica AF lenses.... there is one Leica user on UA-cam who’s’ third camera is a GX9 for this reason....he too sees little difference... except for the M4/3 sensor .
I fully agree that you can shoot fantastic images with a M4/3 sensor. Actually, a good photographer might get better images out of a M4/3 camera than an average photographer with a full frame camera. The photographer makes the image, not the camera. The reason why I am nevertheless shooting the much more expensive full and medium format cameras is that you have more options on DoF and in general on catching light. And the overall image impression is different from medium format to full frame and from full frame to M4/3. And I shoot for clients who want large prints. Packing 47MP on a M4/3 sensor will likely be more noisy if you shoot natively and not with the pixel shift as included in some M4/3 cameras. With my Phase One I shoot natively 150MP with low noise, impossible for a M4/3 sensor. But I do this because clients pay me for prints with 2m of side length. I think you can be perfectly happy with a good M4/3 camera, I had some in the past and only upgraded over the years due to client demand and even higher quality needs. Enjoy your Lumix, Panasonic makes terrific cameras. I shoot from time to time with the S1R, love it.
I would think F2 90 APO would suffice for most.
Agree. I did not compare the two lenses (might do in the future) but guess they come close. You win a bit on the slightly wider aperture but 90mm tele "per se" gives you a lot of background blur and nice bokeh.
mathphotographer Worth comparing. The 90 APO renders beautifully and for £1500-1800 S/H. I wonder just how much more bokeh you’re going to get for your bucks. I suspect it’s marginal at best. Fractional stop advantage is negated by IBIS on SL2. I suspect many of us use the M glass on SL bodies.
Ok, deal :) Will compare the lenses next weeks and get back.
1. Difference between near and far objects depends on where you stand, not focal length. Tele do not compress.
2. May be a great lens, but the lenses are becoming not affordable. Also this one is too large.
I believe that this is an excellent portrait glass! But I guess, an portrait with fully openend aperture shows only one eye in sharp focus! Sorry, I personally cannot recommend this as an good portrait!
Super Linse. Gutes Video, wie andere von dir auch. Aber Englisch ist mir für Freizeitaktivitäten zu anstrengend. Du verschenkst schon etliche Abbos durch englisch. Ob das ausgeglichen wird? Doch sicherlich - sonst würdest du es nicht machen.
Wünsche dir alles Gute für die Zukunft und noch viele Videos, aber ohne mich.
Liebe Grüße Carsten VP
Hi Carsten, ich denke oft darüber nach, mal ein Video auf Deutsch zu machen. Allerdings spreche ich job-seitig nur Englisch und Englisch ist auch meine "Foto-Sprache", wenn Du verstehst, was ich meine. Viele Begriffe aus der Fotografie gehen mir auf Englisch leichter über die Lippen. Meine Viewer kommen ebenfalls mehrheitlich aus dem englischsprachigen Raum: USA, Australien, etc. Dazu kommt, dass meine Familie und mein Freundeskreis international ist. Einige Leute aus dem engen Freundes- und Familienkreis würden Deutsch "NullkommaNull" verstehen. Wäre aber echt schade, Wenn Du nicht mehr vorbeischauen würdest. Vielleicht mache ich auch mal ein Video auf Deutsch, extra für die Viewer, die wie Du lieber Deutsch hören. LG & Beste Wünsche - mathphotographer
I see the cancer is there too.
???
mathphotographer Marxist, communist, anarchist, openly threatening free people on your streets.