Great video. Excellent camera placement, not rushed and very detailed. I changed out the pads and rotors on my '03 this past weekend, and thanks to this video it went without a hitch.
I’m getting ready to do mine and figured it’s just pop wheel off and then rotor but assumption is the Mother of all ----ups!! Very straight to the point,thorough and best vid I’ve seen!!!!! Thanks
This was very helpful. The vehicle in the video had parts just like the one I was working on. The procedures were easy to follow: watch a bit, work a bit; repeat. In hindsight I would watch the entire video 1st, then keep the video at your work area so you can follow along as you get parts of the task accomplished. Every model is different and these guys take tthat into consideration. Thanks fellows for helping me out so well.
Awesome video, did not realize inner and outer bearings would have to be greased when I did my rotors. Just purchased a 2000 Tacoma SST RWD and I'm in love.
you are high, there is absolutely no reason to diconnect the brake line, nor to remove the slides, just unbolt the carrier from the spindle and lift the whole assemble off in one piece
@@LuchoPortugayo bullshit, i have never needed to remove the brake line to change my rotors...or remove the sliders, just unbolt the carrier from the spindle and it all comes off as one unit, and no need to bleed your brakes afterwards
Thanks for posting! Though your hub separated from the rotor far easier than mine, everything was spot on! Lock washers on pad bracket bolts and 19 years of upstate NY rust were a real bear but got everything off ok. Also had to sand some corrosion off the brake line fitting and bolt(even with the gaskets) to stop it from leaking. Fun fact, parking brake light stays comes on when your brake fluid level is low!
Awesome! I have been looking for days for a video on how to replace the broken wheel stud from my 1999 Tacoma with the same hub as this. Newer Tacoma has a different type of hub assembly. Thanks a lot.
Thank you very, very much, 2CarPros, for this video. It gave me the confidence to tackle this job on my 2001 Tacoma base model myself rather than spending big bucks at Sears again. I really appreciate all the information provided and the pace of the video. I'd trade the music for more commentary from the mechanic however!
@7:46 it shows some bearings, are those considered the wheel bearings? I believe I have a bad wheel bearing on my driver side front and if it is the wheel bearing I would like to do it the same time i change rotors and pads. Please let me know! thank you and also this video is awesome! You're just about the only person that shows how to change a 5 lug Tacoma!
Thank you very much. because of your great video, I was able to change rotors, brakes and wheel studs on my Tacoma 2002 RWD, 2WD. Great video, one of the best I came across.
Everything is great. but one thing confused me . Why would you disconnect the brake line when you can just leave on and compressed in the Piston back in returning the brake fluid back to its reservoir tank🤔
Thank you, this video helped greatly doing a similar looking job on a Toyota Spacia 2001 model. I was trying to force that hub out as I thought undoing the locking pin would pull the entire hub out rather than just the rotors.
Very useful video - gives necessary guidance through the process. I would like to get the torque specifications for all of the bolts that need to be returned to their original status.
Wow. This looks a like a nightmare to DIY, esp the grease part. Sucks to have a 5 lug because this job on 6 lug appear to be effortless. Thanks for the great video.
Great video but just so everyone knows be really careful using the axle nut to remove the inner bearing like he did because I dented up both of mine and had to replace them
Yep, same thing happened to me. I bent the metal part of the bearing. Went to Toyota they wanted $160 for 1 bearing. No thanks… went to napa got em for $11
Excellent video. My two cents…Note that after he disconnects the brake line from the caliper he leaves the brake line bolt in place to keep brake fluid from draining out. I had to rewatch to see what I didn’t follow! Oh well fortunately my master cylinder did not empty.
good video. and complete - are the rears the same? couple questions - how can you tell if the rotors need replacing ans are the rears the same as the fronts?
I have a 95 Tacoma V6 2WD LX. Never dripped 1 drop of oil in 10 years. keep a watch on the fan clutch, make sure it is sound. if you spin the fan by hand & it doesnt stop very quickly. Replace. They dont last as long as you might think either. I check mine whenever Im under the hood. my last 1 only lasted 3-4 years. just go buy a Chilton manual for it. 15$ will save you 1000's.
Good vid i just changed mine. Just make sure you have an impact for the disassembly of the rotor. I barely made it to harbor freight in time before they closed 😅
First of all great video! Am i correct in assuming the inner and outter race's were left in and reused since you reused the old bearings? Also what is the best way the remove the old races if they are damaged and need replacement? With out a press or taking to a shop? 96 Tacoma 2wd , 5 lug.
That's correct. Our races were fine. I'd probably just get new rotors with the races pre installed. Or get a race driver set and pound them in and out. Thanks for watching!
Nice video. This looks like a rust free state truck. I would also clean and lube the hardware where pads are installed on caliper bracket. If they are rusty should be replaced. Also the seals should probably be replaced not cleaned and reused. If the rubber seal fails there will be grease all over rear of tire.
Great video. I have a problem where I couldn't separate the rotor and the hub after removing the 5 bolts. I've tried hammering it from the back of the hub but no luck. Any suggestions?
Try spraying WD-40 or liquid wrench between the axle spline and the rotor. Then keep going at it with a hammer, just don't hit the threads! Thank you so much for watching!
2CarPros thanks for quick reply. do you think if it's ok to hit it while it's still on the car? I'm planning to tight it up with the axle nut and hammer the rotor from the front. because it kept on jumping around if I do it off the car... ugh hassles!
Just drop it onto a hard surface like a cement floor or paved driveway rotor side first. Hold it up about waist high with the rotor facing down, and then just drop it. May take more than one time.
I know I'm a year late, but I had the same problem and solved it, so I figured I'd reply here in case it can help someone else. Put the rotor on two blocks of wood (or anything if you're junking the rotor), with the inside of the rotor, if it were on the truck, facing upward. Pound on the center of the rotor assembly with a block of wood and a hammer. It shouldn't take much effort that way, and mine was pretty rusty.
I should have watched this video before attempting to replace my rotors on my '97. Done my wife's Rav4 a month or so ago and that was easy compared to this pile. I have changed brakes and rotors on a great deal of vehicles I have owned and this one by far is the worst. Got it done. Don't know how long it will last. The race on the outer bearing didnt flush with the hub. Stuck up barely above the lip but the POS went back together so I'm driving it
Must be nice to work on a clean vehicle. I stripped the head of one hub bot so far. First brake line bolt doesn't even look like a bolt anymore. Trying to work around it. Other side ( worse one) can't get either slide bolt out and hub bolts want to strip. Good part is I'm doing it out doors on a patch of ice covered with oil from my tractors oil. Good part is the sun was shining and the birds were singing. Parts should be in today. It's raining though. Good video though. Now I know how to do it in a perfect scenario.
@@2carpros i live in northern NY where they salt the roads 6 months out of the year. So it ain't all dirt. The rust just fuses things together. PB blaster and torches are part of every job , lol.
Got er done just before the blizzard hit. Soaked the hub bolts overnite and bought a 6 point impact socket and removed the stuburn bolt. Left the brakelines and caliper bracket on so I would have to replace them to. Slides funtioned but bolts were fused solid. It was a pain but they work. Thanks for the video, It helped a lot.
Great video. So for a 96 tacoma 2wd (5 lug) you will need to remove the axle nut and the two piece rotor assembly to replace the rotor? Seen other videos where the rotor just slides off after removing the caliper assembly. Not sure what year Tacoma those were. Also, if you damage/strip any of the mounting bolts for the calipers, are they easily replaced at auto parts store or do you have to got to Toyota service dept?
In this video it is for the 2wd so the steps are show for removing the rotor. As for your question about the mounting hardware those will be a dealer only item.
Ok. Thanks. Are there any specific torque settings for the various bolts? I noticed that you did not use a torque wrench for any of them? Also, the axle nut tightening is a little unclear. You indicate that "you wouldn't want this on very tight". That seems like a pretty subjective setting.
Yes too tight and It will wear the bearing out to loose and the bearing will fail also. If you want torque specs you can always google search for them.
Really great video! Very informative. One question. What is the torque spec for attaching the rotor to the hub? You used a pneumatic gun but didn't say how tight those bolts are to the actual rotor.
this is a great video. thank you soo much. unfortunately as i was removing the two bolts to remove the caliper one of them got stripped. any idea how to remove that?
Hello! When you disconnect that brake line before taking the caliper off, does it open the brake line up and spill fluid out? Do you need to bleed the brakes because you took that line off?
2CarPros Just curious...I only saw the inner bearing seal. How come there's no outer bearing seal? Is that necessary on a 1999 Tacoma base model single cab with 5 lugs?
great video! Would anyone know how to disconnect or somehow turn off the high pitch ringing noise that indicator makes for this vehicle? I switched the pads but the indicator sensor is still ringing. thank you
+kojmas I was just quoted to pack the bearing at $300 plus tax. this is too easy for it to cost this much. I can buy a sport brake kit a cheaper than that price.
+2CarPros there is no need to remove the break hose. all you had to do was take off the bottom bolt and pivot the caliper up and slide the upper bolt out of the bracket.
Thanks for the video, did the work myself thanks to you. I did have to bleed the brakes with the truck running, I'm not sure if it's necessary to do that, but my brakes wouldn't bleed without it running.
No but you cant get at the top slide bolt with a socket or even a box end. You also have to compress the caliper. Thats how Im trying to do it. Brake line have never been off and one doesn't even look like a bolt anymore. Probably a year late replying but maybe someone else will benefit
I'm a noob, If anyone knows of the torque spec, please do post it. Even with google, it's pretty difficult for us noob to figure this out when we don't even know the specific names for these parts. lol. I'm at a lost for the torque spec of the "Rotor assembly side bolts" is it 47Lbs?
I have a 04 2wd tacoma and the maintenance book I believe says to repack front bearings every 30,000 miles. Does anybody do this. I have 100,000 and have never done it.
So many of the 1st gen Tacoma videos are 4WD! Totally different from the RWD/2WD! Thanks so much for this!
Great video. Excellent camera placement, not rushed and very detailed. I changed out the pads and rotors on my '03 this past weekend, and thanks to this video it went without a hitch.
Maybe the best how- to video I've ever seen.
Thank you for watching!
I’m getting ready to do mine and figured it’s just pop wheel off and then rotor but assumption is the Mother of all ----ups!! Very straight to the point,thorough and best vid I’ve seen!!!!! Thanks
Thanks so much for watching and leaving such a nice comment! :)
No kidding, what a nightmare
This was very helpful. The vehicle in the video had parts just like the one I was working on. The procedures were easy to follow: watch a bit, work a bit; repeat. In hindsight I would watch the entire video 1st, then keep the video at your work area so you can follow along as you get parts of the task accomplished. Every model is different and these guys take tthat into consideration. Thanks fellows for helping me out so well.
Awesome! Thank you for watching!
Awesome video, did not realize inner and outer bearings would have to be greased when I did my rotors. Just purchased a 2000 Tacoma SST RWD and I'm in love.
Right on! Thanks for watching Andrew!
Great... all the car maintenance video makers should learn from this guy...
Thank you so much for watching!
you are high, there is absolutely no reason to diconnect the brake line, nor to remove the slides, just unbolt the carrier from the spindle and lift the whole assemble off in one piece
@@edwardnoce5596 to change the pads no... To change the rotors yes you need to remove the line...
@@LuchoPortugayo bullshit, i have never needed to remove the brake line to change my rotors...or remove the sliders, just unbolt the carrier from the spindle and it all comes off as one unit, and no need to bleed your brakes afterwards
Thanks for posting! Though your hub separated from the rotor far easier than mine, everything was spot on! Lock washers on pad bracket bolts and 19 years of upstate NY rust were a real bear but got everything off ok. Also had to sand some corrosion off the brake line fitting and bolt(even with the gaskets) to stop it from leaking. Fun fact, parking brake light stays comes on when your brake fluid level is low!
Your rotors lasted 19 years?
How did you get the hub off the rotor I've tried hitting it as hard as I can it won't budge
@@icanfartloud Mine lasted 25, with 200k miles but zero snow belt time.
Awesome! I have been looking for days for a video on how to replace the broken wheel stud from my 1999 Tacoma with the same hub as this. Newer Tacoma has a different type of hub assembly. Thanks a lot.
Thank you very, very much, 2CarPros, for this video. It gave me the confidence to tackle this job on my 2001 Tacoma base model myself rather than spending big bucks at Sears again. I really appreciate all the information provided and the pace of the video. I'd trade the music for more commentary from the mechanic however!
You are so welcome! Fixing your car yourself and saving money is completely do-able! Thank you so much for watching and commenting.
. . . you just make it look too EASY. lol. I appreciate the refresher info because its been awhile since I've done brakes. Well done.
Just nuts and bolts :) Thanks for watching!
Very detailed and at a pace that can be understood by everyone. Thanks!!
One of the best instructional videos I ever seen. Thanks man
Wow, thanks!
I really enjoyed the circa 1980's Peoplemover music during this video. Good tutorial too.
I miss the peoplemover. Such an underrated ride. Thank you for watching!
Awesome video! Calm voice, confident movements.
We pride ourselves to be the most professional as we can. Its nice to see someone noticed. Please subscribe!
This is the best instructional video I could find on the subject. Thanks a ton!
a tip: watch movies on instaflixxer. Been using it for watching lots of of movies these days.
@Lennon Cyrus Yea, I've been watching on InstaFlixxer for years myself =)
@Lennon Cyrus yup, been watching on instaflixxer for since november myself :)
@Lennon Cyrus Definitely, been watching on InstaFlixxer for months myself =)
@Lennon Cyrus definitely, I've been watching on InstaFlixxer for since december myself :)
@7:46 it shows some bearings, are those considered the wheel bearings? I believe I have a bad wheel bearing on my driver side front and if it is the wheel bearing I would like to do it the same time i change rotors and pads. Please let me know! thank you and also this video is awesome! You're just about the only person that shows how to change a 5 lug Tacoma!
Have a 95 tacoma Very, very helpful Thank you so much I couldn't do it with out you.
Thank you for this tutorial! I was so confused, I never seen rotors like this
Thank you very much. because of your great video, I was able to change rotors, brakes and wheel studs on my Tacoma 2002 RWD, 2WD. Great video, one of the best I came across.
That is awesome to hear. Please subscribe!
This video still holds up! I even had the book and this video was more helpful thank you so much!!!!!!
I'm so glad! Videos are always better than books in my opinion! Thanks for watching!
Much needed video! Can’t thank you enough!
Best How-To out there! Thank you
Thanks for watching Mya!
It’s already been said many times before but this video is exceptional
Always nice to read though! Thank you for watching!
Excellent video, easy to follow instructions. Thanks for posting!
Np thank you for the comment please subscribe if you haven't already.
@@2carpros .pppp
Great video and to the point. First brake job for me and it went flawlessly due to this video!
Great job!
Everything is great. but one thing confused me . Why would you disconnect the brake line when you can just leave on and compressed in the Piston back in returning the brake fluid back to its reservoir tank🤔
Dont you have to use silicone grease for the bols slides
Thank you, this video helped greatly doing a similar looking job on a Toyota Spacia 2001 model. I was trying to force that hub out as I thought undoing the locking pin would pull the entire hub out rather than just the rotors.
Thanks for watching!
Very useful video - gives necessary guidance through the process. I would like to get the torque specifications for all of the bolts that need to be returned to their original status.
Wow. This looks a like a nightmare to DIY, esp the grease part. Sucks to have a 5 lug because this job on 6 lug appear to be effortless. Thanks for the great video.
Great video but just so everyone knows be really careful using the axle nut to remove the inner bearing like he did because I dented up both of mine and had to replace them
Seconding this! Not a good way to remove the inner bearing. Not sure what the alternative is but now I'm waiting for my new bearings to arrive.
Yep, same thing happened to me. I bent the metal part of the bearing. Went to Toyota they wanted $160 for 1 bearing. No thanks… went to napa got em for $11
@@santoslaguna58 Yep, autozone for me 👍
I just replaced all of the bearings.
Ik this comment’s old but you should just replace both bearings while you’re doing it
Excellent video. My two cents…Note that after he disconnects the brake line from the caliper he leaves the brake line bolt in place to keep brake fluid from draining out. I had to rewatch to see what I didn’t follow! Oh well fortunately my master cylinder did not empty.
Great point!
Mine kept leaking after I disconnected it. So I just flipped it the other way around and put it back, giving me enough space to remove the upper bolt.
best in the west. youtube is my bible, car bible that is. shows everything so clear.
why do other videos show its floating disc. but yours require bearing removal ?
It's because this is a 5 lug. The Prerunners have 6 lugs and those have the 4 piston calipers
Excellent video tutorials 👌 👏 👍 🙌
Thank you! Cheers!
Love this video, needed a visual non technical instruction on tightening the bearing nut.
I wish my rotor assembly separated from the rotor as easily as yours. @5:00.
Thanks your video was very helpful great job
You're welcome!
good video. and complete - are the rears the same? couple questions - how can you tell if the rotors need replacing ans are the rears the same as the fronts?
Super Helpful, thanks for making this videos!!!
Thanks for watching Luis!
Great video. I have a 1994 2wd Toyota pickup. I can't find any videos on that year. Is it much different than the 1995?
I have a 95 Tacoma V6 2WD LX. Never dripped 1 drop of oil in 10 years. keep a watch on the fan clutch, make sure it is sound. if you spin the fan by hand & it doesnt stop very quickly. Replace. They dont last as long as you might think either. I check mine whenever Im under the hood. my last 1 only lasted 3-4 years. just go buy a Chilton manual for it. 15$ will save you 1000's.
Great video , doing mine today 😎
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
I'm done, went good 👍 thanks
Good vid i just changed mine. Just make sure you have an impact for the disassembly of the rotor. I barely made it to harbor freight in time before they closed 😅
No anti-squeal or brake lube needed? Just bearing grease on the caliper bolts?
thank you, very user friendly and pictures are clear and easy to see. question... is this work the same as T100 (4x4) too??
+Daniel Van We are glad you liked it, the job is very similar for the T100
First of all great video! Am i correct in assuming the inner and outter race's were left in and reused since you reused the old bearings? Also what is the best way the remove the old races if they are damaged and need replacement? With out a press or taking to a shop? 96 Tacoma 2wd , 5 lug.
That's correct. Our races were fine. I'd probably just get new rotors with the races pre installed. Or get a race driver set and pound them in and out. Thanks for watching!
Great video, what are the specs on the grease used. I'll figure it out but thanks.
It's just synthetic brake grease designed to take high temps Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this videos, just did my father in laws truck front brakes
That is awesome!
Nice video. This looks like a rust free state truck. I would also clean and lube the hardware where pads are installed on caliper bracket.
If they are rusty should be replaced.
Also the seals should probably be replaced not cleaned and reused. If the rubber seal fails there will be grease all over rear of tire.
Is that how I can change a stud or is there an easier way?
Great video. I have a problem where I couldn't separate the rotor and the hub after removing the 5 bolts. I've tried hammering it from the back of the hub but no luck. Any suggestions?
Try spraying WD-40 or liquid wrench between the axle spline and the rotor. Then keep going at it with a hammer, just don't hit the threads! Thank you so much for watching!
2CarPros thanks for quick reply. do you think if it's ok to hit it while it's still on the car? I'm planning to tight it up with the axle nut and hammer the rotor from the front. because it kept on jumping around if I do it off the car... ugh hassles!
Just drop it onto a hard surface like a cement floor or paved driveway rotor side first. Hold it up about waist high with the rotor facing down, and then just drop it. May take more than one time.
I know I'm a year late, but I had the same problem and solved it, so I figured I'd reply here in case it can help someone else. Put the rotor on two blocks of wood (or anything if you're junking the rotor), with the inside of the rotor, if it were on the truck, facing upward. Pound on the center of the rotor assembly with a block of wood and a hammer. It shouldn't take much effort that way, and mine was pretty rusty.
snippits75 Thank so much for this comment. Have been struggling for 2 hours trying to brake the two apart.
Its definitely a good one,going to get the specs for the caliper and bracket.
I should have watched this video before attempting to replace my rotors on my '97. Done my wife's Rav4 a month or so ago and that was easy compared to this pile. I have changed brakes and rotors on a great deal of vehicles I have owned and this one by far is the worst. Got it done. Don't know how long it will last. The race on the outer bearing didnt flush with the hub. Stuck up barely above the lip but the POS went back together so I'm driving it
thank you so much .. great assitance
Must be nice to work on a clean vehicle. I stripped the head of one hub bot so far. First brake line bolt doesn't even look like a bolt anymore. Trying to work around it. Other side ( worse one) can't get either slide bolt out and hub bolts want to strip. Good part is I'm doing it out doors on a patch of ice covered with oil from my tractors oil. Good part is the sun was shining and the birds were singing. Parts should be in today. It's raining though. Good video though. Now I know how to do it in a perfect scenario.
Try spraying doing the area you are working on with some carb spray then wiping down with a shop towel. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros Got the rotors out today and picked up the new ones. Thanks for the tip on the inner bearings , that helped a lot.
@@2carpros i live in northern NY where they salt the roads 6 months out of the year. So it ain't all dirt. The rust just fuses things together. PB blaster and torches are part of every job , lol.
Got er done just before the blizzard hit. Soaked the hub bolts overnite and bought a 6 point impact socket and removed the stuburn bolt. Left the brakelines and caliper bracket on so I would have to replace them to. Slides funtioned but bolts were fused solid. It was a pain but they work. Thanks for the video, It helped a lot.
Great video, very informative and easy to follow. Im having a problem removing the driver side outer wheel bearing, any suggestions?
it's been 3 years and I'm guessing that he didn't have any ideas.
Thank you, sir!
Do you use any kind of locktite?,,,hub to rotor. How many foot pounds tight??
Great video. So for a 96 tacoma 2wd (5 lug) you will need to remove the axle nut and the two piece rotor assembly to replace the rotor? Seen other videos where the rotor just slides off after removing the caliper assembly. Not sure what year Tacoma those were. Also, if you damage/strip any of the mounting bolts for the calipers, are they easily replaced at auto parts store or do you have to got to Toyota service dept?
In this video it is for the 2wd so the steps are show for removing the rotor. As for your question about the mounting hardware those will be a dealer only item.
Ok. Thanks.
Are there any specific torque settings for the various bolts? I noticed that you did not use a torque wrench for any of them? Also, the axle nut tightening is a little unclear. You indicate that "you wouldn't want this on very tight". That seems like a pretty subjective setting.
Yes too tight and It will wear the bearing out to loose and the bearing will fail also. If you want torque specs you can always google search for them.
We can't get any better than this video
Thanks for watching!
Any need to buy and replacement seals from Toyota ?
Really great video! Very informative. One question. What is the torque spec for attaching the rotor to the hub? You used a pneumatic gun but didn't say how tight those bolts are to the actual rotor.
6:45-7:33 in the video
Just tight is good. I don't really have a torque spec for it. If I didn't use a gun I'd put my arms into it. Thanks for watching! :)
this is a great video. thank you soo much. unfortunately as i was removing the two bolts to remove the caliper one of them got stripped. any idea how to remove that?
did you figure out how to removed it?
Hello! When you disconnect that brake line before taking the caliper off, does it open the brake line up and spill fluid out? Do you need to bleed the brakes because you took that line off?
Yes as explained around the 20 minute mark. Please subscribed!
Thank you good video.
2CarPros Just curious...I only saw the inner bearing seal. How come there's no outer bearing seal? Is that necessary on a 1999 Tacoma base model single cab with 5 lugs?
What size wrenches are used and at what torque should i do my caliper to bracket, if any torque needed.
Is this the same process for the 4 cylinder models?
Yes it is! Thanks for watching Spencer!
Excellent thank you very much !
Thank you for watching!
Please no music. Very distracting. Explain and verbalize your activity.
great video! Would anyone know how to disconnect or somehow turn off the high pitch ringing noise that indicator makes for this vehicle? I switched the pads but the indicator sensor is still ringing. thank you
Another thing that needs to be added to this video are the torque values for all these bolts.
thank you!!!
ima try to knock mine out tomorow. hopefully everything goes good
it didt go good mi left feonk brakes are smoking. any help. i changed the calipers aswell
Is this the same operation I would do on my 01 Tacoma pre runner? it's a rear 2wd
Yep should be the same or really similar. Thank you so much for watching!
My brake line keep leaking after take it out from the caliper?? It’s normal?
How do you know if you have to change out the rotors?
+paul grim its a good idea to check out the rotor every time, they make the job much better and don't cost much, check them on Amazon.
So what's a that grease and spray you are using.
+zachyeah13 that is axle bearing grease and carburetor spray available at autozone, napa or your local parts store.
I noticed the brake line was pinched off with pliers. You never mentioned anything about that step in the process. Otherwise, very good video.
where did you get those gloves??
Haven't used the clear ones in a while but, I think I got those at Costco. Thanks for watching!
Torque specs?
thanks so much
how much would it cost for parts and labor if I let TOYOTA do it?
+kojmas I was just quoted to pack the bearing at $300 plus tax. this is too easy for it to cost this much. I can buy a sport brake kit a cheaper than that price.
+kojmas i have someone doing it for me tomorrow for $75.00 labor and $122.00 parts. He is a great mechanic has been for a long time so far.
Could you please explain the reason why you disconnected the brake line? Great video thanks
Its the only way to get the caliper slide bolt out..... great design huh?
+2CarPros I hate this design!!! Wonder if you just take the whole plate off like if you are changing the rotor to get the pads off......
+Dan Keller That is why servicing these brakes is more expensive than most.
+2CarPros there is no need to remove the break hose. all you had to do was take off the bottom bolt and pivot the caliper up and slide the upper bolt out of the bracket.
David Yep.
A better or easier way to draw that piston in the brake caliper back is to insert a large screw driver between the rotor vents and push it back in.
Thanks for the video, did the work myself thanks to you. I did have to bleed the brakes with the truck running, I'm not sure if it's necessary to do that, but my brakes wouldn't bleed without it running.
Great to hear. Please subscribe!
What would happen if i happened to tighten the axle nut too tight
Could wear out the bearing and cause dragging or catastrophic damage. Thanks for watching!
Does the brake line have to be removed ? what
No but you cant get at the top slide bolt with a socket or even a box end. You also have to compress the caliper. Thats how Im trying to do it. Brake line have never been off and one doesn't even look like a bolt anymore. Probably a year late replying but maybe someone else will benefit
No grease in the back of the pads?!
Does anyone have the tool list needed to complete this job?
The bolt / pins the caliper floats on, if they look bad, I'd replace those rather than clean and lube them.
You left out the part where rotors are rusted to the hub... but good how-to video.
I'm a noob, If anyone knows of the torque spec, please do post it. Even with google, it's pretty difficult for us noob to figure this out when we don't even know the specific names for these parts. lol. I'm at a lost for the torque spec of the "Rotor assembly side bolts" is it 47Lbs?
I have a 04 2wd tacoma and the maintenance book I believe says to repack front bearings every 30,000 miles. Does anybody do this. I have 100,000 and have never done it.
WTF? I'm almost at 200,000, what does "repacking front bearings" even mean? lol.
Why take off the caliper? You wont have to bleed the brakes
i have a 2001 tacoma and the rotor is not the same design as the one shown here......so this doesn't help me
be happy, you lucked out.
If I had known I had to mess with grease, I would have charge the guy $80 and not $60. Then the dumb a-- at Oreilly gave me the wrong pads.
Why the music ?
Good video but background music is extremely annoying.