Mitsubishi WS-A65 Repair V-Log and CRT Rear Projection Discussion
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- In the conclusion to a repair video that I started over a year ago, I finally provide closure to the project and deliver some closing thoughts on the repair itself, the 2002-2003 line of Mitsubishi widescreen projection HDTVs, and HD CRT rear projection in general.
Mitsubishi V20B Service Guide: www.download-service-manuals.com/download.php?file=Mitsubishi-1345.pdf
V20B Service Guide Mirror Link: elektrotanya.c...
Mitsubishi V20B Series Owner's Guide: www.manualslib...
Footnote:
I should also add that the quality of the tubes (or possibly the supporting power supplies and circuitry) in these HD projection sets seems to be vastly superior to those found in standard definition direct-view tube models (even newer ones) in that they exhibit little-to-no discernible "bloom" effect (that annoying phenomenon where the picture gets bigger as more light is added to the image). Instead, they offer a very stable image, more in line with what you might see from a standard CRT monitor.
I miss this TV. I used to have this model with my ex-wife back in 2002. 65"of pure unadulterated bliss with my surround sound hookup. Watching my Star Wars movies, The Last Starfighter, Spider-Man, old school classix, etc. Brings back memories.
It's a modern classic for sure.
Ummm Today's 65 inch 4K TV's are WAY BETTER!! THAN THAT TV
@@shade221 wish I could get mine to work
@@adampruitt9211 in terms of reliability, no, newer TVs are worse.
@@adampruitt9211 SHUT THE HELL UP ID PICK THE 42 INCH CRT
I found one of these tvs in front of an abandoned house and it works perfectly
Good find!
@@seeleagent nah Texas
If there is anything more un-loved than a leftover CRT TV, it has to be a leftover read-projection CRT TV. The things were so big and ugly that I remember a co-worker buying one brand new and having his wife throw it out of the house. And, as the story proves, they were a nightmare to maintain. I've heard of models in which the fluid would leak out and actually cause the boards underneath to catch fire after the fluid boiled away. But, I'll bet these things, the few of them which are left in 10 or 20 years, will be serious collectors items; transitional technologies are always kind of interesting. The original high price is understandable considering all the expensive parts in them, but they were not for the faint-of-hear. Meanwhile, I'm glad to hear that some people are willing to live with them. I wonder if there is a way to make a drip pan or diverter to keep the fluid out of the guts of these things.
Thanks for the commentary. I agree with much of that, although I'm not sure that it's a class of product that will have collectibility. I'm willing to be proved wrong on that, however. Many of these are actually supposed to have a primitive apparatus that collects leaking coolant, but I'm not sure how widely that was implemented or how effective it was. Apart from that, (and the requisite stressful lens cleanings and occasional convergence adjustments) they're actually pretty much maintenance-free; especially the analog models. As far as the MSRP goes, I see where you're coming from in that all of the components were designed for that application, but when you consider how much they cheaped out on factory calibration, (with the intentional excessive overscan used to hide the incomplete geometry adjustments) I still question how "pioneering" they really were, especially when you consider that a lot of the technology was based on the CRT front projectors already in existence. That said, it is worth mentioning that front-projectors could be a lot more expensive (many, if not most, of those were priced between $10,000 and $30,000 in 1990s-value money) and didn't have built-in speakers, tuners, or the requisite projection screen and mirrors, so maybe rear-projectors really were worth the asking price after all. It's probably just the details-oriented side of me who hates a half-assed job.
I agree with most of what you say. I have a Sony TV projector and I've had it for 13 years and the only problem with it is that the colors are messed up.where you see the letters doubled and the colors are 3 fold if you understand what I mean. Everything else works except that. I love my old big TV. I'm trying to find someone to fix it. It's a classic for me. Yes I have my big HD TVs also but I still love my old TV. So if anyone knows anyone in the state of New York that can help me and fix my TV, I would really appreciate it with all my heart! Thank you!!!
@@rosalinagarcia17 STK ics have failed. It’s not an expensive repair. Image is out of convergence
@@rosalinagarcia17 you just need to adjust the convergence allot of these tvs allow you to do it from the menu
Now that's a work of art for sure
And weighs a ton......
"Now that's art!" - ua-cam.com/video/7U-TPJUjf6s/v-deo.htmlm33s
@@Browningate Do you know anyone in New York that you can recommend to fix a Sony stand up TV. I think it's a TV projector. The screen alone is 42" wide and 31" horizontal. Please let me know. I really love this old TV and I don't want to throw it out because I'm trying to find a company that can fix. One company here in Bronx, NY, told me they can't fix it because certain parts are not available or being sold anymore. So please let me know who you can recommend please. Thank you so much!!!
@@rosalinagarcia17 What does that have to do with art or Robert Downy Junior?
I remember power rangers dino thunder on this tv back in 2008 at my grandma house
Wow, I had one very similar to this. A selling point(?), if I'm recalling it correctly, was that it could accept some sort of 'smart/HD module' down-the-line. I always kept that option in the back of my mind through 2007 or so when flat screens were starting to really take off.
My big Mitsubishi was supplanted in my affections by the 32" Panasonic Viera we bought at BJ's Wholesale Club just prior to the Super Bowl in 2007. That 32" Panasonic was priced at $1300; I'm citing this for contrast of pricing. My Mitsubishi was over $2300 at Best Buy in late-October of 2002. I also purchased a progressive scan Mitsubishi DVD player to complement my new TV. The setup was my premiere venue for entertainment for several years and that projection TV served us well.
Thanks for sharing! The module that you referred to in your opening remarks was just a basic OTA ATSC tuner. Such devices are rare, but obtainable. As for the rest of the story, I'm glad to hear that it served you well. You took the $2300 early adopters fee in the jaw like a champ and paved the way for the future, even if you didn't really get to enjoy much of the future while you still had it.
My TV is 18 years old and works very good
These things are antiques now. I feel so old.
The coolant is ethylene glycol, once it starts to leak it will not stop. There is two reasons it will leak, one is the chambers on those sets and a hell of a lot of other sets were a bit shit. Two is the glycol is hygroscopic, so given the shit coolant chambers, the glycol will slurp up a bit of extra moisture and swell the bellows, when it warms up it will be too much pressure, and it will start to leak.
The best option is to drain the coolant and clean out the chambers, then refill it with polypropylene glycol, and when you do that, leave a bit of air in there to allow for expansion. The poly glycol is not near as corrosive, and not near as conductive. The refractive index is almost the same as ethylene glycol, and the cooling properties are about the same. The set will need a full calibration following a correct service manual procedure after glycol is changed, especially the blue tube because it requires a special adjustment procedure to be performed on electronic beam focus or you won't get accurate grey scale and you will need to drive the blue much harder to get good brightness, which will result in pretty quick phosphor wear.
That set is very likely to have a variant of Panasonic P16 electro-static focusing tubes, if indeed you set the astigmatism correctly on them and do a full setup from scratch, the 1080i image will have crisp scanlines visible. There is a few beam correction magnets on the neck of the tube, down near the neck boards. There will be at least a 2 pole set, and probably a 4 pole set, some have a 6 pole set, and some will have an electronically adjustable set, similar to an electro-magnetic focus tube in a front projection CRT.
As you point out, a lot of rear projection sets were never really calibrated exceptionally well from the factory anyway. Manufacturers probably saw no real need to, given that the tubes could EASILY resolve 576p even with a mediocre calibration, but with some work they will have a real good shot at perfect 1080i and 720p as well, on the sets that will display it.
The Panasonic P16 family of tubes was used because they are brighter and sharper than the other available tubes, with most of the others being Sony, very few used Toshiba and NEC tubes (those were 7" tubes, the P16 tubes are 8" ), none would have used any of those by the time this set came out. Even the Sony rear projection CRTs used Panasonic P16 tubes in majority of their bigger sets, and used a electro-magnetic focus long neck version of the P16 in the G70 CRT projectors, with the G90 using the huge P19 Panasonic tubes (also used in the later versions of the Marquee 9500 ULTRA and the Barco 909/Cine 9)
The coolant chambers were usually made by the manufacturer selling that model of set, so it was hit and miss as to just how good they were at staying sealed up and not leaking. I have never ever seen any Panasonic GAOO or Tau GIGA leak. Hitachi and Mitsubishi were commonly used in arcade games, and it is rare that they won't have leaked by now. LG and Samsung were basically the same chambers, and held up a little better than a Mitsubishi. Toshiba sets i don't know if they were an issue or not, they were quite rare here due probably to the absolutely outrageous price they sold for new, they were often credited as being one of the nicest pictures straight out of the box, but they used the exact same tubes as the Panasonic GAOO sets used. The massive JVC sets i have seen used Sony 9" electro-static focus air-coupled tubes, and their image quality was pretty darn ordinary out of the box. GE and a few other very cheap sets in the mid to late 90s often used 7" Sony ES focus air coupled tubes, very similar to what Sony (amongst others) used in their very small CRT projectors. They often suffered from crystals forming in the glycol, but i have never EVER seen one leak.
Thanks for the insight. If I ever get another one, I'll have to keep that in mind. Interestingly, the service manual seems to indicate that most of these do have the 7" tubes though.
@@Browningate They are 8", they say 7" in the manual because that is what the manufacturer of the set has considered the usable size with their beam control magnetics. The astigmatism gets worse the further away from middle you go, and the edges are probably going to be pretty ordinary with Mitsubishi hardware attached. That set has only 4 pole correction, and no electronic dynamic beam shape correction either, so it is a mid field model.
The small sets that used 7" Sony tubes were advertised as 5.5" tubes, but those same series of tube used in a front projector were usually called 7" tubes, because the deflection circuitry and beam control is usually better and more of the phosphor area can be utilised.
The P16 tubes measure 8" from corner to corner across the tube face. On a set such as the front projection NEC XG series there is 2 pole, 4 pole, and 6 pole astig rings, and there is also multi zone electronic astig correction, so it is possible to get the beam focus near perfect across the entire tube face, and you can pretty much use the full surface. The magnetic rings adjust the beam shape so that when it hits the phosphor it is perfectly in focus, giving the smallest spot size for the best resolution. If the astig is not right, the image will appear soft. You can tell if it is good by displaying a test pattern, and adjust the focus pot, if the lines or dots move around as you wind the pot from full under focus to full over focus, the astig is off. If the lines or dots flair in one direction, the astig is off.
It is a big thing when you look into it, calibrating a CRT projection system is a dark art.
@@CaseTheCorvetteMan Sounds like you were pretty into it. You would've liked Mr. Bob's forum thread.
@@Browningate still into it, spent over two decades in it, serviced, repaired, and calibrated LOADS of them, both front and rear projection ;)
@@CaseTheCorvetteMan Interesting. Would you say that the coolant leaks were the most common failure, aside from convergence ICs?
I just got one for free, i was looking for a tv to play my n64 i bought and i found a guy who had one he wanted to get rid of it , i picked up everything is working fine he gave me the manual and the control remote
Awesome. Get that dust cleaned off the lenses, and the convergence touched up, and then let us all know how it worked out.
I picked one up a few months ago, after a while of on time, the picture would shut off. The time it takes for that to occur has decreased significantly, I've read about possible bad soldering at the heat sinks, but in not sure what I'm actually looking for. It's a wonderful tv and perfect for what I got it for, and I don't want to get rid of it for something that might be very simple.
Check for evidence of coolant leaks under the tubes. It's corrosive and conductive, so it will eventually do irreparable damage if left untreated.
Browningate I see no evidence of any liquid leaking in the tv or on the electical panels. My power never shuts off, I lose the picture. After you let it sit a day or 2 it will work fine again for a little bit. That's why I was asking about possible failed solder connections at the heat sinks.
Browningate thank you for taking the time to respond, I appreciate it very much.
@16dbuse
You're welcome. Check again. When this happened to me, the television interpreted a continuous holding down of the power key, which would blank the video, but not turn off the audio. Cleaning the leaked coolant immediately solved the problem. Check especially carefully on the front of the green-colored board.
If your convergence ICs go bad, the 3 primary colors will start to lose their geometry on-screen. This will happen very obviously and abruptly, but you'll still have something on the screen. That's the only case for touching up or replacing the convergence ICs. The symptom you're experiencing would not be caused by convergence ICs, as far as I can tell.
18:30 Well at least there was D-Theater and the original Xbox
This is true. There was HD content in the early-2000s from those (and other) sources, but our media didn't really fully embrace Widescreen HD until the late 2000s.
It’s still nice to know that all types of media started embracing HDTV by the end of 2002, even if content was lacking. At the very least you still had SD/ED widescreen media in a pretty solid amount in DVD and games
@MamaLuigi - While they started embracing it, most of the "widescreen" in videogames at that point was just letterboxing. Even the original Xbox, which had a great selection of titles supporting 480p, (and a handful that even supported 720p and/or 1080i) not that much of its library is widescreen. I wouldn't call the adoption rate "pretty solid" until the seventh generation, at which point it was close to 100%, even at launch.
@Billy - widescreen gaming in the 1990s was an outlier more than anything.
@Billy - True, and it had to start somewhere, but was by no means common nor mainstream. It wasn't until the seventh generation when virtually 100% of everything was HD and widescreen, and not fidgety (no hidden menus, key combinations, haphazard switching of display modes on the monitor, etc., to be able to experience HD and or widescreen).
man i remember my aunt having one of these and thought it was the coolest thing ever. now my cousin has it in his house
That's cool at least it's still getting used.
Hey browningate, thank you for the video. This has opened up my eyes to getting my ws-a65 working correctly again. I just had to replace the signal board on mine as one of the was leaking coolant onto it. Now after that I have fired it up, I have a distorted picture. Its Almost in the shape of a bow tie. I'm guessing the convergence needs to be set on it? I'm kind of Learning as I go along. I know I'm going to have to find out where my coolant leak is coming from before anything. I was going to ask is there any way after I get this coolant leak fixed how to set the convergence? I try to hit my menu button on my remote control I am unable to pull up a menu on the screen. Any Input or advice would be extremely helpful. I know I'm probably spending way too much money on this old technology TV, but its what I grew up with and just have a special place in my heart for it. Thanks again.
If there's gross distortion of the image, (separation of color convergence) you might need convergence ICs. Did it look like that before you replaced the board? With regard to the leak, you may need to figure how to rig something up to protect the boards until the leak can be resolved. If you've already got that much money into it, you may as well go the whole nine yards and finish the job, if you've got the space and/or use for the machine. That said, if you're getting no response from the buttons, check to make sure that there isn't coolant splashed onto anything important. It can be tricky to spot sometimes. Glad to hear you're making progress on the repair! Keep us posted.
@@Browningate no no it wasn't like this before the TV went out. I actually just went in there to go take a picture of it and miraculously I all of a sudden have a picture. I did notice that the corners of the picture on the left hand side are rounded off. It looks like there's black spots on the very corner. if I knew how to post a picture on here I would send it to you.
@Niterider - Well, the UA-cam comments section strictly only supports text, but you could upload the image off-site and then link it. From what you describe though that still sounds kind of weird. Is the problem in the corners perfectly synchronized across the colors, or are they misconverged? Is the geometry of the image distorted there? Again, check for errant coolant anywhere and everywhere you can find it on any and all boards. It's unlikely, but check for damage on the used board that you purchased too.
@@Browningate yeah you're right. I never once thought about that as far as posting a link. On the picture itself definitely the convergence is out of whack. I know that's going to need to be adjusted.before my TV went down though I was having a problem with my screen being too large a picture for the television itself. So on the Barry corners it was cutting off channel logos. As soon as I get home I'm going to go ahead and take it apart and see if coolant has dripped anywhere else on to another board. By the way I was going to ask, what kind of coolant do these guns take?
@Niterider - I've never looked into it or heard of anyone doing it before. What I have heard is that there's definitely enough in there that some can leak out without affecting PQ. You'd have a sizeable amount of liquid dripping down before it became an issue on the tubes. It'd probably be easiest to harvest some from a dead, discarded unit if needed though.
The condition you describe with the image being too large is inherent with the technology. They did it on purpose because it would take too much effort to properly calibrate the geometry at the edges in the factory, from what I have heard. It can be adjusted down in the service menu or it can be fixed physically by way of shims. Either option requires a very large amount of effort, adjustment, and expertise, and carries a lot of risk.
I miss good TV speakers and having a place to set components on top. I wonder if you could slap a 65" oled in there and just use it like a TV stand
I have a big screen television 60in Mitsubishi my problems with the it'll turn on and then filled turn off how can I fix it
Better get a plasma. Cause the rear projection tv don't last long only good about has good surround sound speakers and good bass
that goat dog in the corner is freaking me out
Spend some some time in the same room as him, and you'll get used to it after a while.
Our family has this exact model in the living room right now. Father refuses to get rid of it, doubt he ever will
Keep the lenses clean!
I miss my 55" Sony projection tv it has better sound then the flat screen tvs. What happened to picture in picture? I don't see them on new TV's I had it on my Sony projection tv
Some have it and some don't. I think Picture-in-Picture fell off the map because most people don't use it that much anymore. When was the last time you wanted to watch a video while playing a game, for example? I used to do this fairly regularly, but I suspect that I was in the minority.
How did you work out this stuff? I would of dumped it and got oled
Peace ✌️ out
I don't mind learning a little bit every now and then. One could even make the argument that it's actually better to learn on worthless items because the risks are almost completely eliminated, but the opportunities are every bit as great.
My Mitsubishi tv wont turn on but worked fine last night . Help
I used to have a similar model back in my college days. These were not fun moving up and down a 3rd story apartment building I can tell you that, but I wont forget the days playing Halo 2 and GTA San Andreas on the original Xbox on it. I also wont forget the day I almost had the cops called on me because somebody thought they heard screaming and gunshots coming from my room! Thats how crazy loud the sound was on it! Sadly, it was transported to the dump in 2011 when my brothers now ex took her aggression out on it. I would gladly buy another one if I could find a working model. Just for the nostalgia!
Finding a working one shouldn't be a problem. You probably wouldn't even have to pay money for it, although the lenses would doubtlessly need a good cleaning, and the convergence a good touchup.
Nostalgia for me, it was a tv very similar to this one that I grew up with.
Does anyone have an idea what type of fresnel lens does this exact model use? Is it a spot or linear one?
I don't know what it is. All I know for sure is that it is the perfect type for a rear-projection display device, so I don't really worry about that.
how do you discharge rear projectors?
Is this with Input Lag and how are the Gaming Experience?
There is absolutely nothing digital about this particular model. There is no hijinks going on with the signal, so lag is pretty much 0 at native resolution, and I'd imagine, quite close to that, when scaling the 480i to 480p.
i've known about rear projection tvs, i found out abt CRT projectors many many years ago, but somehow i didn't figure CRT rear projection TVs were a thing until this year and i've been fascinated by them ever since, the fact there have been even HD capable ones blows my mind completely! An analog tube based television of this size with HD resolution would be an incredible thing to own, i'm guessing that the input lag prob. isn't too great on it though?
Little to none. It's not really doing anything in the way of converting the image (save for converting 480i to 480/540p). You might even be able to play duck hunt on one of these HD units, although I never got around to trying it for myself, unfortunately.
It sucks I can't add a pic it I have the big Phillips 56 inch an it has the hd tv monitor badge virtual dolby surround
I wonderimg if it will look good for retro gaming now with an upscaler. 1080p is all I need.
1080i is indeed an option. A transcoder and scaler device will be your best choice for HDMI-exclusive equipment.
como consigo chip de una pantaya sansun como de 70 pugadas
I don't even know what a Pantaya Sansun is.
How do you use this tv like to setup channels I got one today and I am having trouble with it ???
The tuner is NTSC only, so you won't be getting any HD on it. Just go into the menu and have it scan for channels if you really want to use it though. Otherwise, get an outboard ATSC tuner that can output component, or a proper set-top box from your cable/satellite provider (or and HDMI-to-component transcoder for your Roku).
Crt tv way better than these tv.
Does this built with subwoofer and surround sound i remember these tv's
You remember wrong. There's only stereo sound and no subwoofer... but it sure sounds like there's one, given the depth of sound provided by the television's casing.
Disculpa tengo un tv modelo mitsubishi vs-4504R y dice en la pantalla que esta bloqueado y necesita un código de 4 dígitos me puede ayudar sabes algo te lo agrádeseria 🙏
RTFM
Does universal remote work on it because I bought a house and they said if they don’t get everything in 4 days we get to keep and I saw this tv in basement with couches and there was no remote so idk what Mitsubishi remote works on the tv because there is many Mitsubishi tv and idk which one works and so I’m trying to see if universal remote works
Most likely, yes. A multitude of Mitsubishi rear-projections (most VS-, all WS-, and many/most WD-, models, spanning ~2 decades) use the same remote commands.
How can I open with out remot control it doesn’t turn on it just blink blink 10 times I think it’s the timer how can I solve it and open the tv help me out
Glad to help. Thanks for sharing.
I accidently shut front panel off an now i cant get remote or power button to start
Solution from the operations manual:
"you can restore the function of the front panel buttons by pressing and holding the MENU button on the front panel for more than 8 seconds. If the TV is already on, a message will be displayed to confirm the release of the Front Button Lock."
when were those tvs made
Yup.
Browningate yup what
Thanks!
@@mysonicisthis1477 lol epic response
@@Browningate wtf
Great video dude 💪
Hey I just got a ws65315 for free and I love it!. My only complain is that the picture is very very dim. Do you know if it’s normal also that I can only see pictures if I sit in front of it? I can’t see anything if I sit at an angle let’s say 45 degrees from the tv?
CRT rear projection isn't the brightest, but unless you have an LCD displaying the same image right next to it, there shouldn't be a dramatic level of noticeable difference. Viewing angles are a different story. The lens salvages everything it can out of the CRTs by focusing the light forward. You can view the image off-angle, but it won't be as bright. Another thing to consider is that CRT doesn't last forever and does age. If your set was run at 100% contrast (which is the default setting out of the box) for tens of thousands of hours, it will not pack the punch that it did when it was new or if the previous owner had the presence of mind to change the settings.
@@Browningate That makes sense. Is there any chance that I would achieve a bright picture as it had before when it was new or at least close to that? The speakers are great, they sound terrific and the image is not bad is kinda blurry but I love playing doom 3 in my og xbox. Thanks for the response! :)
@Tico - You're welcome. Assuming that it actually did lose brightness, it could be a weak power supply, but more than likely would be worn tubes. If you could salvage scarcely-used tubes from a similar/identical model, I suppose you could swap them in, but that would be way more effort than it's worth. If the previous owner ran it on 100% contrast for tens of thousands of hours, the damage has already been done. From what I understand, the color shift is more apparent than the brightness change though. The following link shows what this looks like on-screen for a CRT front projector, which uses similar technology: www.curtpalme.com/TubeCondition_OnScreen.shtm
i wonder if you can modify the speakers to two-way ?
They seemed fine to me as-is.
Are these good for retro consoles like ps2
You are correct. They're perfect for PlayStation 2 and original Xbox; especially if you're using your component cables (instead of S-Video, or especially composite) for those systems. Most original Xbox games support 480p and/or widescreen, and many PS2 games do the same. A handful of Xbox games even run in HD, as do one or 2 PS2 titles.
Se me bookio los botones de enfrente no puedo apagarla y ni encenderla que hago por favor ayuda
So, which one is it then?
I have a Sony wega rear projection tv, it looked so beautiful with my Xbox 360. now it is discolored with blue haze all over the screen and yellowing In some spots. I want to repair it, I don't care about the monetary value, i just want to keep using my old tv
I bought a used one no sound how can I fix this
Nice!
Would love one of these for a DDR setup. There's something very appropriate about using them for dance games.
That time skip tho lol
Thanks for appreciating that. I try not to leave the story unfinished, even if it takes some time.
nice set I have worked on a lot Mitsubishi Tv's .
Thanks for sharing. Did anyone actually use these things with component or HD back in the day?
@@Browningate Component and my favorite HD TV is one of the last CRT tv's that Sony made it's a 34inch widescreen XBR 720P and 1080I it still has amazing picture on it still after all these years I did warranty work on Sony Also my repair shop we sold Sony New along with RCA ,Zenith Motorola, Sylvania and magnivox ,Philco and GE .
I love this type of content, too many videos about scrapping these and not so much repairing and doing cool stuff with.
And the interesting thing is that there is no financial benefit to scrapping a CRT RPTV. Unless plywood has some rising scrap value that I don't know about. For some reason, people get whiney when I try to tell them that truth, but it's just a pointing out of the obvious.
@@Browningate people still throw them out, smash em up, even R/CRT doesn't care about them, (which says a lot about reddit), the UK never Really got Big screen Televisions like these, we did get the DLP ones (which i am also interested in) my dads coworker had a Samsung DLP in his work room, and he got very confused when I began explaining how it worked!. one day i hope to own a Mitsubishi unit like this. it's getting it from across the pond and modding it to work on 240V but hey! it's fun and the reward is great once these are all cleaned and focused up
@@lukedavis436 Reddit is probably too high-brow and self-absorbed for such a bold technology anyway. Rather than waiting for one to finally float across the ocean, I'd recommend just moving to North America. For all the bad consequences that we've reaped as the result of electing Democrats for years, there are still large pockets of the land that are hospitable to human flourishing, and CRT rear projectors abound. That's in addition to a whole host of other wonderful advantages.
@@Browningate that and no ULEZ meaning i can happily drive an ancient Gas fueled volvo
@@lukedavis436 Add it to the list. Find a good quality red state and pull the trigger. Immigration laws are pretty lax right now, or so I've heard.
I bought a brand new Sony in like 2005, then around 2010 it cut off (picture wouldn't project), I got it to cut back on, and it would stay on until the lights blinked, then it wouldn't project te picture again, but if you finally did get it on, you had to leave it on, finally, it just never came back on or projected. What is so maddening, I had given it to my dad in like 2008, and he loved it, that damned thing had a wonderful picture. If I could fix it (I'm my storage shed for 10 years) I would take it to my river camp, but the truth is, its just obsolete.
we have projector christie entero hb rpmhd-led02
now it can not start up when I press power ON
the power fan run 40 second then it stop, I see the light on Network cable on EM module but it not starting up, it seem to be not present 12VDC on Em module, and the fan on Light module start 5 second then it stop
after that power module also stop
video: ua-cam.com/video/MVqeKiNWUug/v-deo.html
could you please help me ? does ME module has problem?
What exactly does that have to do with the Mitsubishi?
A CRT projection TV and not a DLP one? Wow. I knew CRT projectors existed, but I never knew CRT projection TVs did.
Oh yeah! It's a thing. These things were all over Craiglist and Facebook Marketplace for a while.
Does this tv have HDMI?
The WS-A65? No. It's analog-only. Some of Mitsubishi's higher-end digital rear-projectors did though (or at least supported DVI). And there's always the opportunity to add an HDMI-to-component transcoder.
de proyecsion soy de mexico
I believe that's where they made it. Correct.
Is it possible to play my switch on this?
Yes. HDMI-to-component transcoder is your friend for digital-only consoles. Keep in mind that the transcoder you select *must* support scaling to 1080i.
You're honestly better off playing an Xbox 360 or Playstation 3 (or even a Wii U). The original HD-ready consoles have their own component connectors and support 1080i natively, so there's no need for extra cable transitions. Digital-only consoles (Xbox One/Playstation 4/Switch) should only be used on digital flat panels.
Personally, I still have my Xbox 360 S and I recently bought a component cable for it. At some point I even plan to get a 1080i CRT just to get the full experience out of it. I do have an Xbox One, but I'm not too fond of it.
@@MrUnknownuser164 Bingo. While HDMI-to-component transcoders will work, where CRT HD will really shine is with stuff that natively outputs analog HD (or at least 480p) using a supported format on Component or RGB. Xbox 360, PlayStation 3, (except for the games that don't support 1080i) Wii, Wii U, PS2, Xbox, and Dreamcast are all fantastic devices for use on these types of display devices.
@@Browningate Thank you. Even so, I still feel like component video should be reserved for 1080i (or 720p whenever possible). The problem that I have with using a 6th-gen console (or a Wii) over component is that you can only get 480p. Using a console like that (GameCube, Wii, PS2, Xbox, etc) at 480p over component is like using an Xbox 360 or Playstation 3 (or even a Wii U) at 1080p over HDMI. It's using the maximum display capability of the console over a connection intended for higher resolution (since HDMI has supported both 1080p120 and 2160p30 since HDMI 1.4). So I feel like the older consoles should still be used over composite (480i).
@@MrUnknownuser164 I agree, except for the bit about old consoles being used over composite only. If composite is the best they support, that's one thing, but component at 480i/p is still superior to composite at 480i. It may not be making the most of component's capabilities, but it is making the most of the console's capabilities. Plus, there are some original Xbox games that support HD, and even the odd PS2 title. Either way, component is still a great and underappreciated standard.
This tv should have Been the 21st century tv.
I have an big old tv like this but not the same model
How do u get plex working
Thanks!
Isn't thjis a DLP TV
Since you watched the video in its entirety, you have correctly asserted that this isn't a DLP.
My TV not showing blue screen and the menu options on screen. Incase of no signal it displays black screen, instead of blue screen. Remaining all working fine. No error code found.
That's normal, if you have that option checked.
How Heavy was the television?
Over 320 pounds, give or take a few with it missing the faceplate. This is definitely not a thing to lift solo either way.
@@Browningate I had a 50" Sony project tv no trouble with it at all i only paid $15 for it before Goodwill stopped talking crt tvs and came with the original remote
@Dan - In that case, you have a stronger back than most. Please be safe!
Browningate Damn thats around 145-150 Kilograms. That’s really heavy.
A tv using coolant? Stk ic? That's enough for me not wanting one ever, tv technology has come a long way.
The STKs weren't so bad. That leaky coolant always gets the best of them though. The material holding it back invariably deteriorates.
The challenge with those TVs was that those very bright small CRTs for the projection resp their phosphors wore out pretty quickly compared to a standard TV CRT. The phosphor is bombarded which much higher electron energies. And I bet you see on your TV also darkened areas.
This one, I suspect, didn't have particularly high hours on it, so it wasn't too grungy yet, but others left in what Mr. Bob used to refer to as "torch mode" (default 100% contrast) and used for tens of thousands of hours probably did suffer that fate much sooner than they should have.
I just pick up a Hitachi 60SDX88B rear projection free it does work (tuned on ) blew all the dust out with air , did not see any signs of leakage anywhere, THEN I discovered it was not a DLP It seemed that few of the boards were like new in comparison to other others. mounted some handles on the sides ( she a big girl ) the person said it worked as it should but its a 1999 i thought maybe just needed hauled off, but seeing your video might be worth trying it out . what would you suggest I check or do first to see if its a candidate for saving
My advice would be to power it up and see what happens! From what I've read on that model, while it is a 4:3 set, it should take full HD, so your 16:9 material will just be cropped down a bit, making it more like a 57". It advertises a 60 watt sound system too, so I'd be genuinely curious to hear what it can do.
Anyway, if it works alright, clean the lenses, tighten up the convergence, and get an HD source hooked up (seventh-generation game consoles, and even some sixth-generation systems, are great candidate). Keep us posted!
I got a philips big screen today...my issue is the picture is fuzzy or shakey when trying to hook up cable box or anything else...ive tryed all the different av channels any ideas?
How shakey?
I Just came across your feed and I have a Mitsubishi 65809 in actually excellent condition that I am selling to someone. Do you have a video or any instructions on separating this TV for transportation? I remember seeing this delivered in 2 parts, but assembly seemed to go fast and I don't recall what was required other than seeing the front speaker grill snapped on.
Thanks.
Michael Azzarello how much?
I have a 2004 unit, replacing the convergence board tomorrow but noticed droplets in the green and red, so I guess the coolant level is down and a couple of the boards do look like something has dripped on them. How do you remove the crt gun and do what you did, refill them/seal the. BJ
Good to hear you're on the road to repair. For the coolant stuff, I don't know what the procedure is for refilling the coolant. You have to leak a heck of a lot before it starts to affect the lens's ability to do its job. If you've got droplets appearing on the boards, then it just comes down to damage control (cleaning up the mess) and finding a way to rig something up to prevent future drippings.
Wish they’d make new projection TVs I know I’m probably the only one who thinks this but man do I miss the 50 inch philips projection tv we got years back didn’t know how easy it was to get parts but my family gave it away to a neighbor I really wish companies who still make high end projectors would make these TVs again always loved the look especially with video games
It would be a pretty interesting thing to see revamped, but the plummeting prices of flatpanels are what caused rear projection to give way in the first place. If you want a nice, large, set, you'll pay a lot of money, and if you want a crappy large set, instead of getting a rear projection, you just buy a cheapo flatpanel.
I want now if You repair tv 60" a live un México is tv Philips or we're are pieces
So, you only want my Mitsubishi if I fix your Philips?
My Steins;Gate dreams :'0
My Hitachi projection (crt type) tv has a dim picture. Is that an IC issue?
Probably not. If the convergence is good, then I'd say that the convergence ICs are fine. The most likely explanation is that the lenses are dusty. Give them a thorough cleaning, and check the mirror while you're in there. Depending on the make, (and depending on how/where it's been stored over the course of its lifetime) since some have poorly-sealed optical cavities, the mirror might be dusty too.
Be very careful when cleaning lenses and/or mirror, however. They're not made from the same scratch-resistant material as your cell phone screen. In fact, those surfaces are unbelievably soft and scratch at the slightest provocation.
How much do you think a TV Like this costs in 2018 ?
Definitely $0, maybe less.
My picture is dim, what that about?
Not sure. What's the story?
@@Browningate Family heirloom TV Hitachi CRT type from the early 2000's. All the controls work well. Picture is coherent (converged, no blurry lines) but hard to see (dim) except in a very dark room. Others have said clean innards like mirror of dust. Some say CRT degradation.
@@lakecrab It could be both. The mirror is angled downward, so not much sticks to it. The place where dust really collects is the projection lenses. Clean them (carefully! they're made of the world's softest plastic, and not glass) and see if it makes any difference. If the machine has very high hours run at high contrast/brightness, then it could be a case of degradation too.
how I can connect my xbox one x to my 2000 mistubishi tv with out hdmi connection
Thanks for sharing!
Have a 2009 80 inch Mitsubishi tv still great
That's good. DLP has really nothing to do with CRT rear projection, but it's still just as fun.
No games?
Yes, but not in the video. There simply wasn't enough time to cover them. Rest assured that they work the same as they do on pretty much any other display device though.
Nice video. You sound like the 8 bit guy
Air just wasn't flowing through the nostrils that day the way I'd hoped it would.
Kinda want one.. but i dont have enough space :S
To store or to transport?
You need to get in to plasma tv.
I've always wanted to own one, but never really experienced a Plasma that I liked all that much. I once fixed a Hitachi UltraVision plasma that kept the bright-scene-dimming problem (that plasmas are notorious for) to a minimum, but the panel was a little grimy (similar to a low-end oled screen). Still, I found it to be reasonably enjoyable from a distance.
@@Browningate look for Pioneer elite plasma kuro tv just UA-cam it they have tweak them.
@@rolldeep3444 If I ever get the chance to snag one for free, (or close thereto) I'd definitely be interesting in procuring one and giving it a fair shake here on the channel.
Tengo una enciende y da imagen pero después de un rato se pierde la imagen queda totalmente sin definición
Does it go blank or is it completely without definition?
Alguien sabe como desbloquear el codigo personal de ese tipo de televisores
Referring to the parental control stuff? RTFM.
Whoaaa, pense que este tipo de televisores era de uso exclusivo para eventos deportivos o noticiosos PERO veo que se vendia caseramente y no imagino el precio de estas bestias electronicas
Definitely not "homemade!" Like other early-adopter technologies, they were a few thousand dollars new. Still good for pretty much any content, even today, as long as the details you need to see aren't too close to the edges (given the image cutoff situation).
Is anybody on here know how to hook up an Xbox One to an old big-screen Mitsubishi I just got it for free and I would love to have the Xbox hooked up to that it's bigger than my flat screen
HDMI-to-Component transcoder is your friend in that case, since the Xbox One only has HDMI output, and a lot of these HD CRT RPTVs only have component-in as their only means of high definition input. Just make sure that you get one that supports scaling to a resolution of your choice, so that the output is always 1080i.
Okay. What do I need to buy
@@SantanaSam12 Sounds like a plan. Let me know how it works out.
I'm finally calling it quits on my Mitsu WS65908, believed to be in good working order, when last powered up. When I googled to look for discussion forums with mentions of folks still using these, I could find very little. Does anybody have a need for parts? Are there any specific parts which could be salvaged and shared with somebody still inclined to keep their Mitsu going? I hate to throw old tech with rare parts in the dump if somebody can use them.
The 809 is the circa-2000 version of the same model, if I remember correctly. If it still works, the thing has more practical value than it has cash value, so I'd just clean the lenses, focus it up, and put it into use in a secondary role.
Yep, in 2001, I installed it in a clients HT. In 2011, they asked for an upgrade to a larger flat screen and gave me the Mitsu back. It has been my main TV since then. I love how it looks for movies; I’m not a fan of the brightness of modern flatscreens. Rearranging stuff in a brick ranch with smallish rooms, and I just don’t want to devote the space to the Mitsu anywhere. I have been gifted numerous nice flatscreens (Sony Bravia, Panasonic Viera, Samsung) and so I have TV’s I’m not even using! When I last poked around the net for Mitsu information five years ago, there seemed to be a more active community talking about keeping them going, so I wanted to see if anybody wanted spare parts before tossing it out. Today I hardly see any active threads about them.
@@4bettercheddar I'd check on AVSforum to see if anyone could use cheap parts. Rear projectors (especially CRT RPs) are usually not worthwhile to part out, since their only value is whole.
these are the last types of tv's i repaired as a tv repairman i decided the chinese made junk made after wasn't worth wasting time on, i still repair crt and rear projection sets but mostly just vintage tv''s from the 50 upto the 80's
That's too bad. Backlight replacement in Led-backlit LCDs is fun and rewarding.
May I please ask if you have an idea what type of fresnel lens does this exact model use? Is it a spot or linear one?
Did you also put new coolant in the tubes on yours and clean the old build up? Because it looks on video as if it's in new condition while mine looks blurry on the edges. And while mine has no convergence issues, the guns still don't want to align perfectly as yours does, resulting in the blue color smearing out a bit. My model is the WS-55313 and has a DV-i port. Also, it has very low hours also and it only looks better when turning up the brightness, but not the contrast and needs to be kept at 0.
No. If only a small amount of coolant leaks, then it's fine. How blurry are we talking about on the edges? And is it blurry or misconverged?
@@Browningate Very blurry on the edges but the center seems normal. And it's slightly misconverged at the edges as well, resulting in a mild pincushion, but the IC's seem to be ok, as it would've not been possible to adjust in the service menu, and using the FINE green adjustment fixes the mild convergence issues and has nothing to do with aligning the green gun. I now just took a look and found only mild to moderate yellow build up on all but the blue lens but not covering the entire bottom. I've usually been told that only when the screen becomes pink you need to change the coolant, but do you think in this case I should just go ahead and change it anyway?
@@blazuma111 I suppose it's possible, but it just doesn't seem like the two would be connected. If you have the time and materials to do the coolant flush without damaging anything, it can't hurt, (unless the seals are starting to go and the very act of changing it causes a leak) but I'm skeptical that it would have any impact on the edge focus. Have you posted a photo depicting the edge focus on AVSForum (or similar) to get some community input? Keep in mind that flat CRTs historically have always naturally been a bit unfocused at the edges, and I'd imagine that the effect is compounded if the thing's got a lot of hours on it.
@@Browningate I'll be sure to post it on AVS forums, but the real problem is that recently, my colors went out and are very dull and not vivid. I'm guessing it's a video chip that went out, but then again, I'm not so sure, it sometimes used to come back on after the set was on for about half an hour and then would go back to the dull colors.
@@blazuma111 At that point, was that the only degradation in the image, and was it affecting all inputs (and menus)?
I have a similar model and have been trying to figure out and diagnose issues with it. At one point it would display snow when turned on but now it won't even power on. I do not know where to start to diagnose the issue. I have blown out the dust in the cabinet and I do not see any signs of leaking. The TV was not used very often so any help in where to start looking would be very helpful?
If the not powering on was preceded by convergence problems, it's not that uncommon for the ICs to short out and kill a pico-fuse when they have been run out of spec for too long. If the convergence was fine before, start with checking for standby voltages and such to rule out a bad power supply. And look very carefully for small splashes of coolant, as they can be extremely difficult to see.
Browningate there was no convergence issues prior. The image quality was actually quite good but one day when I tried to power it on it did not come on. Prior to that it was only displaying snow but I attributed that to not being connected to a signal. It is just odd that it stopped powering on. I had blown out the rear of the case thinking it was just dust but it did not fix the issue. I tried different electrical outlets and still the same result.
@@DorianMariusGray In that case, let's start looking for coolant drops on the boards and move on to testing standby voltages. If you get none, or inconsistent standby voltages, disconnect the power supply board from its neighbors, and try again.
I have a 55 inch. Northeast Pennsylvania. Works perfect. But I have a dumpster coming next week it’s going. Total albatross
Before you call it quits, I'd recommend cleaning the lenses and turning off VSM sharpness. You might find that it's a lot better than you originally thought.
@@Browningate no
Room
@@EvilAndy-os6bz I've never really bought into that excuse as being truly valid. Even wall-mounted flatpanels still require a stand apparatus with approximately the same footprint as a 55" CRT rear projector to accommodate for all of the supporting equipment (game consoles, cable box, etc.). The only time when the size/weight factor really comes into play is with moving the beast to a different room or house.
@@Browningate lol trust me. It’s in the way now. Sledge hammer time come Monday.
@@EvilAndy-os6bz Not sure I can "trust" anyone who's threatening violence on an inanimate object. I fail to see how it's "in the way" now, since we've already proven that it doesn't take up any more floorspace than an a/v stand.
Por que se ve palido asi es la pantalla ???
The screen looks pale because I'm filming it with a camera. In person, it looks pretty good.
Oye amigo sabes como hacer que la TV no se vea opaca?
I suppose that you could replace the particle board with glass. That would definitely make it more transparent! Interesting concept.
Can I use them to play in a high end PC? Do they come close to crt's motion resolution and lag?
It's more possible than you might think. I used a VGA-to-RGBHV breakout cable. I actually did that with one of these before. If you can figure out how to output 1080i or 540p from your computer, which can certainly be done, the sky's the limit.
@@Browningate So VGA to RGB and vga to Display Port.
@@Browningate Thanks 👍
@@arielpuig7302 Not exactly. If you only had a DisplayPort output on your computer, then you'd want to hook a DisplayPort-to-VGA adapter up to a VGA-to-RGBHV breakout, and then attach the breakout to the Mitsubishi.
Great Video/repair. I recently picked up a ws-55517, Mitsubishi's final CRT Rear projection. has an HDMI port, but vertical lines are very "wiggly" and the picture jumps around until it warms up. can't figure it out to save my life.
Could be cold solder joints under the convergence ICs, but I'd check for coolant leaks too. Does it do that on all inputs and for the menus also?
@@Browningate Mr Bob suggested coolant leak also, but I can find NO evidence of one at all. there is however heat paste smeared all over the signal board. all inputs, the menu, convergence grid etc are all affected by the "wiggling".
@@jdla140 Weird. At approximately what rate is it doing that?
@@Browningate It varys as it warms up. Possibly a 60hz buzz from a bad filter cap, but I see absolutely no evidence of that whatsoever.
@@jdla140 I'm at a loss on that then. I was able to get my replacement power board from an eBay seller who was parting out a working unit. If you can rule out just one of the three major boards, then you've got a 50/50 shot at picking the right one.
Hi i just got one of these old tvs, im trying to get my directv to show up and cant, can anyone help me
It shouldn't give you any trouble. If you're hooking it up with component cables, make sure to disable unsupported resolutions (like 720p and 1080p). You'll probably need to temporarily hook up the crappy composite cables (just temporarily) in order to do this as well.
On the remote select the correct input. 🤣
Great tv! it has PIP function?
It most definitely does. I remember making extensive use of that feature, switching between watching shows and Mario Kart Wii (patched to restore online multiplayer connectivity) while waiting for the next match to start. Good times.
@@Browningate i love this type of tv (i'm an italian collector of vintage electronics) and I'm looking for a used one with PIP (although my current 55" plasma TV does the same things). But rear projection TVs have the charm of cine image (not tele but cine). Do you still have this TV?
@@antechquario I don't own either (the 48" WS-48311 or the 65" WS-A65) anymore, unfortunately. This class of products may become collectible someday, but that day is still a ways off. Right now, they're still very much at the bottom of their deprecation curve.
@@Browningate
I am sorry. Sold or broke?
I love these TVs, but as I told you I'm undecided because I have a plasma that has the PIP function and weighs much less :)
@@antechquario Both sold working. One sold, and then broke, (shorts caused by a coolant leak) as far as I know. Is the plasma a particularly grungy model that you're looking to replace it?
My mom still has this tv
Give it a good lens cleaning and basic settings optimization, and she'll likely continue to use it for years to come (as long as it doesn't develop any coolant leaks).
Browningate I don’t think that’s necessary because she has had the tv since 2010 and it had no issues with the screen. The only problem she had was the speakers but that got fixed
Where did you buy your power supply from and what was the part number
Are you asking or telling?
I'am asking
@Terrell - eBay. I don't remember the part number, but it should be printed on the board somewhere. Is there any reason in particular why you would be seeking a power supply board?
Lok featured on LTT
Pretty sure it wasn't.
@@Browningate it on floatplane atm
@@Browningate ibb.co/RBdZypp
@Dave Jones Fascinating. I guess that's how you know when you've made it in life.
Царь телик
That's the best kind of telly... I think.
Can you please tell me how you hooked up your Xbox to it ????
Original Xbox and Xbox 360 natively support component video, so I just hooked it straight up. There's a video around here somewhere talking about the topic...
My grandma had this TV, an element TV and now a Samsung Tu70
Lol, Element. That's a downgrade for sure.