Disclaimer: There is always a risk of damage when working on your graphics card. Please take all the precautions necessary to minimize the risk of damage. I am not responsible for any damage that might occur.
Good presentation. Several suggestions. Wear a static strap. I use the old-style ice maker tray to hold the screws and small parts. I put numbers on the individual tubs, and as I remove screws, I put the first ones in #1, the second ones in #2, etc. When I unplug wires, I put a piece of thin cardboard with the word "Wire" in its own tub. I start with the highest number on reassembly and go down the tubs in reverse order. Using a pointed toothpick is an excellent way to align the screw holes. I also secure the ice tray to my work table just in case.
Static strap is not necessary these days with solid state electronics, on older magnetic and open circuit boards yes ESD was a thing. These days not so much unless you go out of your way to create a big charge.
Very useful presentation on the teardown and reassembly of this card, and pretty much applies as is to any 30-series FTW3. Thanks! Highly recommend anyone ordering the 3080 kit direct also order a 3mm kit direct for extra pads for the back. Kritical 3mm is hard to find at retailers, and padding the back of the PCB to the backplate will help the VRAM substantially.
Only if you are getting into heavy OC'ing. Otherwise multiple people have shown, while it would be a nice extra little feature, you really won't see a temp change adding pads to the back. Multiple sources have confirmed this.
Just an advice: to remove old pad, use an old credit card...so fast with this. In my miner experience i see sometime that put pads between pcb and backplate is not a good idea. If the backplate have holes, your pads are useless and trap the heat. A good fan beside the backplate will be a better solution in this case 😉
I bought 2mm and 1mm as you said, everything went perfect, but when I assembled the card, the 2mm pads from the power delivery phase on both sides, they didn't make contact with the cooling plate so I had to open the card again and add a 1mm on top of the 2mm strip and it worked. Dunno what's the actual size I'm supposed to use. I'm taking about the blue strip you use next to the 1mm green ones you drew on the outer sides of the PCB on second 0:35.
Here are the official sizes: forums.evga.com/m/tm.aspx?m=3249351&p=2 The problem with them is that they don't provide the hardness of the pads. Normally stock pads a super soft and squish down a lot. The ones you are talking about is 77x6.5x2.75mm so 3 would be too thick, unless they squish down a lot.
@@sethtrosity well I had to do it like that, I didn't have 2.75mm so I use 2+1. Now my temps went down from 85 degrees to 62, So I'm guessing it worked 🤔. And this green pads from Kritical they actually feel a lot like clay.
I used these pads on the same card. I went from 110C to 96C. I saw a decrease but I’m just not sure why I’m not seeing better temperatures. Also I tried the backplate pads a little later trying to drop the temp more and it didn’t do anything. :/
Great how 2, I just ordered a 3080ti ftw3 and the kritikal pads and thermal paste. I plan on doing this b4 i use it. Big difference, I had originally watched a video using the gelid pads so I ordered them. I came actoss the kritikal pads kit for the 3080ti and ordered it instead, seemed like a no brainer, already cut and ready to go. Thanks for sharing your experience and thoughts.
Does this matter what model of 3080 you have? Is this kit of for the 10gb or 12gb or can it be used for either one? My 3080 isn’t over heating at all but good tutorial. I plan on doing this to my 3080 12gb one day
I;''m going to follow your video for the thermal pad placement. Question though, do you recommend placing thermal pads anywhere else to improve the cooling performance?
I used the same kit but what I noticed is two things. The two 1mm pads are too thin for this card mainly because compared to a MSI Suprim card the screws on for the pcb and backplate is very badly done. The entire left side of the card including the IO shield isn’t even screwed into the heat sink anyway, the nuts and screws are just holding the backplate to the pcb. For me personally this resulted that the 1mm pad didn’t contact the heatsink at all, because when I peeked into the card after assembly I could clearly see no contact. I confirmed this by tearing down the card today after one day of use, when I look into the pad surface’s there is nearly no marks of contact either. My conclusion is that evga used the paste on the vrams to act as a glue but also optimal contact due to the uneven pressure on the pcb by the poor design. Because when I tried to open the card the first time it was impossible, i had to apply heat in order to soften up the paste on the vram. Now I believe 1.5 mm would do the job here which I contacted Kritcalpads and mentioned but it seems the dont give a fuck. Because one day later they haven’t responded me while before my purchase they were very eager to sort out my questions over email.
I haven't taken my card apart since changing the pads, but I have had no issues. So if the 1mm pads aren't making sufficient contact with the rail, it hasn't effected my card as of now. Will check in the future if I disassemble the card again for cleaning.
Hey just out of curiousity, r u sure applying thermal pads before putting on the backplate is a good idea? That won’t cause problems down the line? With clean up etc
I had the issue of the core not making enough contact with the heatsink after installing these pads on my Ti version. I think theyre either too stiff/thick or i didnt apply enough thermal paste (which you shouldnt anyway if theres good contact between the surfaces). Ive now put a copper plate instead of the pads on the mem chips and left the pads on VRMs, its still suboptimal as the plate still hasnt got enough contact due to the pads being to thick or the plate being too thin, core is ok i guess, but i only went down -10C from 90 to 80 on the mem while the plate was advertised to make a difference of at least -20-25C. I hope either manufacturer comes up with a solution to accommodate for such a mixed setup.
I didn't have any issues with the pads for the FTW3, but I did with the pads for the 3080 FE. I had to take the card apart afterwards and you could see where the pads were making contact with the core. I ended up trimming away those parts of the pads and that fixed the issue. Sometimes you have to open the card again and make sure there isn't anything preventing the pads from working correctly.
I've taken apart GPU's before but these because of the design just don't seem worth it to me. I'm glad you are all seeing some improvements, but I feel like a simple undervolt is sufficient enough.
I've swapped pads on so many cards and then took them apart for cleaning to not even bother anymore. Both ways get the job done. Feel free to do as you please.
Great video. I was looking into doing this myself but it looks like only the memory temperature benefits from this. A little bummed out but its okay. Other than that, thank you! :)
The kit I used from kriticalpads comes pre-cut, no need to guess the sizes. According to them, the pads on the mosfets are: "Thick (2.6-2.8mm) and narrow stripes go on the mosfets, on both sides of the GPU die."
Did you use the pre-set pack of kriticalpads ? or you got the sheet and cut by yourself? as far as I know the memory is 2.25mm not 2mm. can you confirm? Thanks!
I used the pre-set pack specifically for the EVGA 3080 FTW3. The official size of the pads for the vram from EVGA are 2.25mm but the issue is with the shore (hardness). Stock pads are softer and compress more than pads you can buy aftermarket. They compress down pretty close to 2mm, so getting 2mm aftermarket pads are the way to go.
@@sethtrosity For the 2 long strips on the mosfets, do you suggest to use 2mm too ? I am going to use gelid ultimate and thermal putty k5 pro for the vrm inductors.
Here are the official sizes: forums.evga.com/m/tm.aspx?m=3249351&p=2 The problem with them is that they don't provide the hardness of the pads. Normally stock pads a super soft and squish down a lot. The ones you are talking about is 77x6.5x2.75mm so 3 would be too thick, unless they squish down a lot.
Just ordered this kit for my FTW3 Ultra, and it got me thinking about gaming performance. I replaced stock pads on my Palit 3080 with Gelid Extreme, and my GPU temp went up when playing BF5 and other games, but the memtemps is down to like 82-84 degrees when i mine. I guess this is due to more heat going into the cooler from the better pads. What is your GPU die temp when gaming?
I normally don't do any benchmarks for gaming on my cards as they are used for mining. You are correct though. When you use higher quality pads, the heat transfer from the memory to the cooler is much better, which will show up on core temps. I suggest you watch this video from TekShinji which explains it better. ua-cam.com/video/vdIIA57treo/v-deo.html
@@sethtrosity I understand. I think i'll leave the Gelid Extremes on the card and accept the higher GPU temp when I game. 70-80c isn't superhigh anyways and i rather have my memorytemps down. I should also try to undrrvolt it. Will check that video out. ✌️
It going up means it mitigating the temps from the memory more effectively as well. Still a bit high but then again better than getting thermal throttled.
@@markw496 a couple of weeks later and i notice memorytemps slowly climbing up to 90 degrees. A little higher ambient temperature though, but the Palit sitting next to it with Gelid extremes is 4-6 degrees cooler with the same fan speed. I actually believe the Extremes are the best buy overall. But it was nice getting all pads pre-sized.
@@sethtrosity in the video you're saying that you use 3 mm in the back; as it is not available for me to buy, I'm asking you which one should I use since only 2 5 and 4 is available in my country.
@@grateshi The backplate needs 3mm. 2.5 is too small and 4 is too big. The ones I used in the video were GELID thermal pads I had left over from a different card. There is no memory on the back so it doesn't require high quality pads. Just get any 3mm pads you can find.
I am getting similar mem temps (84-86avg down from 92avg) using NAB/Gelid pads on my 3080 TI FTW but my GPU temps are in the low 60's using Noctua H2. Even after adjusting the curve to similar Clocks that you were showing, my GPU temps are still in the 60's. Wondering if you could share your OC for that card as you seem to have a steady 50C? Not sure if the fact that mine is LHR or not contributes to the 10C temp difference or not but my MH/s is is a decent 88-90 My OC: Curve set to 1095mhz at 0.893v Mem 1350 Power Limit 70% (Pwr draw 275-279W) Fan 80% Edit: I only changed the VRAM pads and left the stock pads and thermal putty on the VRM's and Mosfets
The 3080 Ti being a LHR card uses more power than the FHR 3080. So your temps are expected. I have my overclocks at 1080 (locked core) and 1400 (memory). This gives me 100 MH/s at around 224 watts.
I disagree. When you swap thermal pads, you will know right away if you did something wrong. The temps will either be better or worse. Most miners keep their cards in good condition, some don't. The ware on them is hard to determine, but swapping pads isn't an issue.
Disclaimer: There is always a risk of damage when working on your graphics card. Please take all the precautions necessary to minimize the risk of damage. I am not responsible for any damage that might occur.
Good presentation. Several suggestions. Wear a static strap. I use the old-style ice maker tray to hold the screws and small parts. I put numbers on the individual tubs, and as I remove screws, I put the first ones in #1, the second ones in #2, etc. When I unplug wires, I put a piece of thin cardboard with the word "Wire" in its own tub. I start with the highest number on reassembly and go down the tubs in reverse order. Using a pointed toothpick is an excellent way to align the screw holes. I also secure the ice tray to my work table just in case.
Static strap is not necessary these days with solid state electronics, on older magnetic and open circuit boards yes ESD was a thing. These days not so much unless you go out of your way to create a big charge.
Very useful presentation on the teardown and reassembly of this card, and pretty much applies as is to any 30-series FTW3. Thanks!
Highly recommend anyone ordering the 3080 kit direct also order a 3mm kit direct for extra pads for the back. Kritical 3mm is hard to find at retailers, and padding the back of the PCB to the backplate will help the VRAM substantially.
Only if you are getting into heavy OC'ing. Otherwise multiple people have shown, while it would be a nice extra little feature, you really won't see a temp change adding pads to the back. Multiple sources have confirmed this.
Just an advice: to remove old pad, use an old credit card...so fast with this. In my miner experience i see sometime that put pads between pcb and backplate is not a good idea. If the backplate have holes, your pads are useless and trap the heat. A good fan beside the backplate will be a better solution in this case 😉
I bought 2mm and 1mm as you said, everything went perfect, but when I assembled the card, the 2mm pads from the power delivery phase on both sides, they didn't make contact with the cooling plate so I had to open the card again and add a 1mm on top of the 2mm strip and it worked. Dunno what's the actual size I'm supposed to use. I'm taking about the blue strip you use next to the 1mm green ones you drew on the outer sides of the PCB on second 0:35.
Here are the official sizes: forums.evga.com/m/tm.aspx?m=3249351&p=2 The problem with them is that they don't provide the hardness of the pads. Normally stock pads a super soft and squish down a lot. The ones you are talking about is 77x6.5x2.75mm so 3 would be too thick, unless they squish down a lot.
@@sethtrosity well I had to do it like that, I didn't have 2.75mm so I use 2+1. Now my temps went down from 85 degrees to 62, So I'm guessing it worked 🤔. And this green pads from Kritical they actually feel a lot like clay.
I used these pads on the same card. I went from 110C to 96C. I saw a decrease but I’m just not sure why I’m not seeing better temperatures. Also I tried the backplate pads a little later trying to drop the temp more and it didn’t do anything. :/
Great how 2, I just ordered a 3080ti ftw3 and the kritikal pads and thermal paste. I plan on doing this b4 i use it. Big difference, I had originally watched a video using the gelid pads so I ordered them. I came actoss the kritikal pads kit for the 3080ti and ordered it instead, seemed like a no brainer, already cut and ready to go. Thanks for sharing your experience and thoughts.
How did it go? What are your temps? Also what pads and thermal paste did you go with?
Thank you for such a detailed report on your work. Respect 👍🏻 for information about thermal pads. ✊🏻
Thank you so much, it work for my evga 3080, drop the temperature from 96 to 78!!
Big improvement, congrats!
Damn dawg 96C?!?!
Does this matter what model of 3080 you have? Is this kit of for the 10gb or 12gb or can it be used for either one? My 3080 isn’t over heating at all but good tutorial. I plan on doing this to my 3080 12gb one day
I;''m going to follow your video for the thermal pad placement. Question though, do you recommend placing thermal pads anywhere else to improve the cooling performance?
I used the same kit but what I noticed is two things. The two 1mm pads are too thin for this card mainly because compared to a MSI Suprim card the screws on for the pcb and backplate is very badly done. The entire left side of the card including the IO shield isn’t even screwed into the heat sink anyway, the nuts and screws are just holding the backplate to the pcb.
For me personally this resulted that the 1mm pad didn’t contact the heatsink at all, because when I peeked into the card after assembly I could clearly see no contact. I confirmed this by tearing down the card today after one day of use, when I look into the pad surface’s there is nearly no marks of contact either.
My conclusion is that evga used the paste on the vrams to act as a glue but also optimal contact due to the uneven pressure on the pcb by the poor design. Because when I tried to open the card the first time it was impossible, i had to apply heat in order to soften up the paste on the vram.
Now I believe 1.5 mm would do the job here which I contacted Kritcalpads and mentioned but it seems the dont give a fuck. Because one day later they haven’t responded me while before my purchase they were very eager to sort out my questions over email.
I haven't taken my card apart since changing the pads, but I have had no issues. So if the 1mm pads aren't making sufficient contact with the rail, it hasn't effected my card as of now. Will check in the future if I disassemble the card again for cleaning.
Hey just out of curiousity, r u sure applying thermal pads before putting on the backplate is a good idea? That won’t cause problems down the line? With clean up etc
Mission accomplished thanks to this video! Thanks for the help and informational step by step walkthrough.
link to the little crescent wrench you use to hold the hard to reach nuts in place?
The one I used was just something I found in my toolbox. It was a mini 5mm wrench. If you have the ifixit Mako kit, you can use the 4mm nut driver.
I had the issue of the core not making enough contact with the heatsink after installing these pads on my Ti version. I think theyre either too stiff/thick or i didnt apply enough thermal paste (which you shouldnt anyway if theres good contact between the surfaces). Ive now put a copper plate instead of the pads on the mem chips and left the pads on VRMs, its still suboptimal as the plate still hasnt got enough contact due to the pads being to thick or the plate being too thin, core is ok i guess, but i only went down -10C from 90 to 80 on the mem while the plate was advertised to make a difference of at least -20-25C. I hope either manufacturer comes up with a solution to accommodate for such a mixed setup.
I didn't have any issues with the pads for the FTW3, but I did with the pads for the 3080 FE. I had to take the card apart afterwards and you could see where the pads were making contact with the core. I ended up trimming away those parts of the pads and that fixed the issue. Sometimes you have to open the card again and make sure there isn't anything preventing the pads from working correctly.
I've taken apart GPU's before but these because of the design just don't seem worth it to me. I'm glad you are all seeing some improvements, but I feel like a simple undervolt is sufficient enough.
For GPUs since they don’t have an IHS it’s better to spread the thermal paste rather then letting pressure spread it out.
I've swapped pads on so many cards and then took them apart for cleaning to not even bother anymore. Both ways get the job done. Feel free to do as you please.
I used 2mm for everything without checking what I need to use and my core temp is 83 lol need to buy 1mm pads and try again
Great video. I was looking into doing this myself but it looks like only the memory temperature benefits from this. A little bummed out but its okay. Other than that, thank you! :)
hi man, thanks for the video. what thickness did you use for the thermal pads over the mosfets?
The kit I used from kriticalpads comes pre-cut, no need to guess the sizes. According to them, the pads on the mosfets are: "Thick (2.6-2.8mm) and narrow stripes go on the mosfets, on both sides of the GPU die."
Hi, great video! Could you suggest how many millimeters the nut is at 2:21
4mm hex nut
@@sethtrosity Thank you man, you are the best !👍
what are the measurements of the thermal pads?
Did you use the pre-set pack of kriticalpads ? or you got the sheet and cut by yourself? as far as I know the memory is 2.25mm not 2mm. can you confirm? Thanks!
I used the pre-set pack specifically for the EVGA 3080 FTW3. The official size of the pads for the vram from EVGA are 2.25mm but the issue is with the shore (hardness). Stock pads are softer and compress more than pads you can buy aftermarket. They compress down pretty close to 2mm, so getting 2mm aftermarket pads are the way to go.
@@sethtrosity For the 2 long strips on the mosfets, do you suggest to use 2mm too ? I am going to use gelid ultimate and thermal putty k5 pro for the vrm inductors.
@@kimohw Yes, 2mm for both and 3mm on the backplate.
I have an EVGA rtx 3080 ti xc3 ultra gaming and I want to change the thermal pads, what thickness what and type of pads do I buy?
Just get the kit from kriticalpads kriticalpads.com/evga-3080-xc3 it includes all the pads you need.
@@sethtrosity hey thank you man!!!
Does this void the warranty or will EVGA still accept it?
Does not void warranty inside the USA. I have no idea about other countries.
Some people use 3mm over the thin strip of mosfet, are you sure you use the correct thickness?
Here are the official sizes: forums.evga.com/m/tm.aspx?m=3249351&p=2 The problem with them is that they don't provide the hardness of the pads. Normally stock pads a super soft and squish down a lot. The ones you are talking about is 77x6.5x2.75mm so 3 would be too thick, unless they squish down a lot.
Just ordered this kit for my FTW3 Ultra, and it got me thinking about gaming performance.
I replaced stock pads on my Palit 3080 with Gelid Extreme, and my GPU temp went up when playing BF5 and other games, but the memtemps is down to like 82-84 degrees when i mine. I guess this is due to more heat going into the cooler from the better pads. What is your GPU die temp when gaming?
I normally don't do any benchmarks for gaming on my cards as they are used for mining. You are correct though. When you use higher quality pads, the heat transfer from the memory to the cooler is much better, which will show up on core temps. I suggest you watch this video from
TekShinji which explains it better. ua-cam.com/video/vdIIA57treo/v-deo.html
@@sethtrosity I understand. I think i'll leave the Gelid Extremes on the card and accept the higher GPU temp when I game. 70-80c isn't superhigh anyways and i rather have my memorytemps down. I should also try to undrrvolt it. Will check that video out. ✌️
It going up means it mitigating the temps from the memory more effectively as well. Still a bit high but then again better than getting thermal throttled.
@@markw496 a couple of weeks later and i notice memorytemps slowly climbing up to 90 degrees. A little higher ambient temperature though, but the Palit sitting next to it with Gelid extremes is 4-6 degrees cooler with the same fan speed. I actually believe the Extremes are the best buy overall. But it was nice getting all pads pre-sized.
@@niklasniklasniklas1 make sure to not buy shitty pads
front Vram 2mm?
Hello,
Where can we find 3mm Kritical pads plz ?
Only, 2, 2.5 and 4 are available on amazon for int. shiping.
I'm not sure. I buy them from their website.
@@sethtrosity do you think that 2.5 or 4mm could work ?
Or would it be not enough or too much ?
Thx in advance for your answer 🙂
@@grateshi I'm not sure which pads on the card you are talking about, but 4mm is too big.
@@sethtrosity in the video you're saying that you use 3 mm in the back; as it is not available for me to buy, I'm asking you which one should I use since only 2 5 and 4 is available in my country.
@@grateshi The backplate needs 3mm. 2.5 is too small and 4 is too big. The ones I used in the video were GELID thermal pads I had left over from a different card. There is no memory on the back so it doesn't require high quality pads. Just get any 3mm pads you can find.
Hi, is this video good for the lhr version as well ?
LHR version of the card is exactly the same as the FHR version hardware wise.
I cant access the website is says access denied when i try to check out, are they out of business?
They are still in business as far as I know. Maybe just an issue on your end.
I am getting similar mem temps (84-86avg down from 92avg) using NAB/Gelid pads on my 3080 TI FTW but my GPU temps are in the low 60's using Noctua H2. Even after adjusting the curve to similar Clocks that you were showing, my GPU temps are still in the 60's. Wondering if you could share your OC for that card as you seem to have a steady 50C? Not sure if the fact that mine is LHR or not contributes to the 10C temp difference or not but my MH/s is is a decent 88-90
My OC:
Curve set to 1095mhz at 0.893v
Mem 1350
Power Limit 70% (Pwr draw 275-279W)
Fan 80%
Edit: I only changed the VRAM pads and left the stock pads and thermal putty on the VRM's and Mosfets
The 3080 Ti being a LHR card uses more power than the FHR 3080. So your temps are expected. I have my overclocks at 1080 (locked core) and 1400 (memory). This gives me 100 MH/s at around 224 watts.
Good video, but please lower the damn music. Makes it hard to focus on your voice
My OCD would kill me if this was my card and only 2/3 of that last vram chip got covered lol
look at 8:15, which vram only got covered 2/3rds? Also, the more you work on it, like cleaning, to make it perfect, the more you risk damaging it.
Dont lose these nuts
All these comments are exactly why you do not want to buy a used non-lhr card 😀
I disagree. When you swap thermal pads, you will know right away if you did something wrong. The temps will either be better or worse. Most miners keep their cards in good condition, some don't. The ware on them is hard to determine, but swapping pads isn't an issue.
Ethermine ...... 😞