@@juniorflores9362 no it’s not. He put a bushing right at the drain to dump it into an 1-1/2 drain. Which is not legal. It more than likely won’t drain well. It will drain slow without even having a blockage.
A trick an old plumber taught me is to take the can of glue and can of primer and ducktape them together side by side. Just a lot easier to deal with than 2 individual free floating cans.
The problem with that is covering the warning labels on the can is safety violation. On a job site a safety inspector could tell you to trash your cans and get new ones. UA-cam is all about people showing safety in videos shown on UA-cam.
I really enjoy your videos. You show how to install, along with how to figure your way along as you run into obstacles. THAT, imo is super important. I watch 4 tile guys regularly... you, Sal, Landberg and Tile Coach. You each have differences in things you focus on, and I think it definitely helps make us DIYers more rounded. You guys are appreciated!!
I already enrolled in the course that has everything. I removed the subfloor-thank goodness I did-and I saw what damage was done by somebody, during two remodels, and left massive amounts of water damage unrepaired. I was a mold planting ground. I'm even going to mention they cut the joint from stem to stern leaving just 1 1/2 of joist at the bottom and top. I don't know why the former person reduced it to 1/2" when it not was necessary. In my state it's 2" code. Every pipe leading up to the drain 3", 2", except for the transition to the sink drain. There was all kinds of room but they settled on 1 1/2" shower drain for the shower. I don't think I can get an 1 1/2" shower drain for my pan. Why would I want to? I'm not a plumber but I'm a fluid hydraulic technician and with large fluid conductors is always better to avoid a drop in Delta P. Resistance to flow is bad.
Depending on quality of the shower, you might want to bed the base in mortar, or leveling compound. And about getting into the remodeling process, please remember that a license and permit(s) are required.
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher I got a bs shower that is cracking in the rounded corners, all 4 corners. If they would have put mortar under the shower pan it would have not cracked.
Thanks for the walkthrough, but curious why even a small section of 2” to 1.5” would make a difference in drainage speed. Probably a physics question. 😅
Just letting you know you can't just upsize at the trap from 1 1/2" pvc to 2" pvc that is against code a shower drain needs a minimum of a 2" drain you need to cut it out and make the entire waste stack and trap arm 2" and stay within your minimum trap arm distance of 5 feet
You’re right and he already acknowledged that. But at the end of the day, the only reason a shower needs to be 2” and a tub can be 1-1/2” is because of the tub height vs curb height. If your shit is that clogged to the point of it overflowing the curb you should be doing something about it. Meanwhile people shave their beard over a bathroom sink that’s 1-1/4”
@@brianlundeen8448 you are missing a few points. Shower heads deliver more GPM than a lav faucet. Also the sink is a deeper receptor than a shower pan. So yes, a 1 1/4" drain but deeper to prevent over flow. This is hack anyway you look at it.
I just don't see enough of a fast drainage the 2" into 1.5 and all of the elbows with any hair glogging and such, I would love to hear how it actually worked out from the users, He worked with what he had to deal with I could be wrong.@@OGCJ10
Think about that statement. The tub/shower drained fine on 1 1/2", how the hell does that change with a shower only? Maintenance doesn't change at all. The only real risk is if it DOES clog you have less time before water flows over vs. a tub. The risk is extremely small vs the cost to plumb in a whole new 2" line.
@@reidbalzer9514 not with 1-1/2 drain. Yes the clogging will be an issue and more frequent. But a 1/2” diameter in pipe size is a lot more of a problem than you think it it is. That problem is. With the amount of water going into the drain. The 1-1/2 will not always be able To keep up with it, it will fill that entire pipe and trap with water and cut off the air from the vent. Which will cause it to drain to slow. Which will fill the base and potentially overflow. It will do this without a clog in the pipe. The difference between the tub and the shower is the tub has an overflow drain on it. Which allows air to enter the pipe with the water while it drops into trap. Upsizing the drain to 2” for a shower will keep the trap and pipe from filling up the pipe entirely with water and Cutting the vent off. Where depending on the amount of water the showerhead is putting out will be an issue.
Sr , I'm going from a stainless steel tub to a walk in shower...what type of shower pan do you recommend. Stainless steel or Acrylic....please specify name and model of whichever you recommend...my shower size will be 60x32 ...thank you very much and I really enjoy and learn from your experience...many blessings..I wanted to add also that my walls were tile and I will be going to tile again in shower and bathroom floor...👍🏼
What’s the purpose of this U-joint at the tub floor drain, I think it’s called a trap? Wouldn’t the flow be better if it was a straight L joint from the 6” straight? Just curious why a trap was set
@@PlumbersThe1stLineOfDefense IPC and UPC both allow for 1.5 in shower drains. UPC for remodels under a certain size and IPC for all showers under a certain sq footage and GPH. You're talking out of your ass
@@reidbalzer9514mainly the part where he tells you you shouldn’t do it like this. The shower drain needs to be 2”. Under no circumstances should it be 1-1/2. Main reason is the 1-1/2 drain can’t handle the water. The drian will fill completely it will cut off the air from the vent. And it will drain slowly. The reason it worked before was because the tub had an overflow drain that would allow air and water to enter the trap at the same time.
@@PlumbersThe1stLineOfDefense he says its not ideal, and yes thanks for the specific explanation that is understood and makes perfect sense. I would counter that like in this situation adding a 2 inch line all the way will massively increase the cost of a relatively simple job and I do not think it is necessary in 90% of cases like this. There is no way a 1 1/2" will fill completely under normal showering circumstances unless you are showering with no shower head or an obnoxiously large shower head. It would have to completely flood the drain hole for it not to be able to pull air in.
@@reidbalzer9514 and it will on majority of homes. Specially you start getting soap, shampoo and other products in the drain. It won’t take a lot for it to fill unless your trap is extremely close to the vent. But if that’s the case than it’s in reach why not just change the drain to 2”. It will not work in 90% of applications. I can promise you that. But like I said different circumstances will give different results, the majority having issues.
Enroll in course today 😊 bathroomremodeling.teachable.com/p/3-day-shower-course
That shower drain is 2” right?
@@juniorflores9362 connection 2” correct ✅
@@juniorflores9362 no it’s not. He put a bushing right at the drain to dump it into an 1-1/2 drain. Which is not legal. It more than likely won’t drain well. It will drain slow without even having a blockage.
A trick an old plumber taught me is to take the can of glue and can of primer and ducktape them together side by side. Just a lot easier to deal with than 2 individual free floating cans.
The problem with that is covering the warning labels on the can is safety violation. On a job site a safety inspector could tell you to trash your cans and get new ones. UA-cam is all about people showing safety in videos shown on UA-cam.
I really enjoy your videos. You show how to install, along with how to figure your way along as you run into obstacles. THAT, imo is super important. I watch 4 tile guys regularly... you, Sal, Landberg and Tile Coach. You each have differences in things you focus on, and I think it definitely helps make us DIYers more rounded. You guys are appreciated!!
Highest compliment 👍 all amazing installers 😊
I already enrolled in the course that has everything. I removed the subfloor-thank goodness I did-and I saw what damage was done by somebody, during two remodels, and left massive amounts of water damage unrepaired. I was a mold planting ground. I'm even going to mention they cut the joint from stem to stern leaving just 1 1/2 of joist at the bottom and top. I don't know why the former person reduced it to 1/2" when it not was necessary. In my state it's 2" code. Every pipe leading up to the drain 3", 2", except for the transition to the sink drain. There was all kinds of room but they settled on 1 1/2" shower drain for the shower. I don't think I can get an 1 1/2" shower drain for my pan. Why would I want to? I'm not a plumber but I'm a fluid hydraulic technician and with large fluid conductors is always better to avoid a drop in Delta P. Resistance to flow is bad.
Thanks!
Wow 🤩 Thanks so much 😊 really appreciate this
the only time in doing a drain is the closet bend for a toilet you can go from big to small
Incredibly helpful!! So glad I found your channel!
Depending on quality of the shower, you might want to bed the base in mortar, or leveling compound.
And about getting into the remodeling process, please remember that a license and permit(s) are required.
We’ll said 👍 and please licensed professionals, use mortar under pans like this 👍
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher I got a bs shower that is cracking in the rounded corners, all 4 corners. If they would have put mortar under the shower pan it would have not cracked.
thank you this was one of the more helpful vids on youtube
Underrated channel
Don't even need to move a drain, but I love how he teaches... 😂
Damn, I came to the comments for all the expert opinions and found nothing but respect and admiration. Wth is happening here
Thanks for the walkthrough, but curious why even a small section of 2” to 1.5” would make a difference in drainage speed.
Probably a physics question. 😅
Just letting you know you can't just upsize at the trap from 1 1/2" pvc to 2" pvc that is against code a shower drain needs a minimum of a 2" drain you need to cut it out and make the entire waste stack and trap arm 2" and stay within your minimum trap arm distance of 5 feet
Yup, always upgrade drain piping to 2” in this scenario…
You’re right and he already acknowledged that. But at the end of the day, the only reason a shower needs to be 2” and a tub can be 1-1/2” is because of the tub height vs curb height. If your shit is that clogged to the point of it overflowing the curb you should be doing something about it. Meanwhile people shave their beard over a bathroom sink that’s 1-1/4”
@@brianlundeen8448 you are missing a few points. Shower heads deliver more GPM than a lav faucet. Also the sink is a deeper receptor than a shower pan. So yes, a 1 1/4" drain but deeper to prevent over flow. This is hack anyway you look at it.
@@raycarrier5753 you’re right, and I would personally upgrade to 2” all the way, but I just think at the end of the day it will operate just fine
@@brianlundeen8448 Also my plumbing work gets inspected... 1 1/2" pipe would not pass plumbing inspection.
Thats going to be nice standing in a puddle of water constantly now when that ptrap starts clogging up, constant maintenance now.
😆 that’s funny
Why constant maintenance?
I just don't see enough of a fast drainage the 2" into 1.5 and all of the elbows with any hair glogging and such, I would love to hear how it actually worked out from the users, He worked with what he had to deal with I could be wrong.@@OGCJ10
Think about that statement. The tub/shower drained fine on 1 1/2", how the hell does that change with a shower only? Maintenance doesn't change at all. The only real risk is if it DOES clog you have less time before water flows over vs. a tub. The risk is extremely small vs the cost to plumb in a whole new 2" line.
@@reidbalzer9514 not with 1-1/2 drain. Yes the clogging will be an issue and more frequent. But a 1/2” diameter in pipe size is a lot more of a problem than you think it it is. That problem is. With the amount of water going into the drain. The 1-1/2 will not always be able To keep up with it, it will fill that entire pipe and trap with water and cut off the air from the vent. Which will cause it to drain to slow. Which will fill the base and potentially overflow. It will do this without a clog in the pipe. The difference between the tub and the shower is the tub has an overflow drain on it. Which allows air to enter the pipe with the water while it drops into trap. Upsizing the drain to 2” for a shower will keep the trap and pipe from filling up the pipe entirely with water and Cutting the vent off. Where depending on the amount of water the showerhead is putting out will be an issue.
Sr , I'm going from a stainless steel tub to a walk in shower...what type of shower pan do you recommend. Stainless steel or Acrylic....please specify name and model of whichever you recommend...my shower size will be 60x32 ...thank you very much and I really enjoy and learn from your experience...many blessings..I wanted to add also that my walls were tile and I will be going to tile again in shower and bathroom floor...👍🏼
Those the shower drain needs to be min of 2 inch round ?
Is there a way to change a copper drain to a pvc drain from the trap?
What brand pan did you use here? Good video btw!
What’s the purpose of this U-joint at the tub floor drain, I think it’s called a trap? Wouldn’t the flow be better if it was a straight L joint from the 6” straight? Just curious why a trap was set
It keeps water trapped in the bottom of the drain to prevent foul odor gasses from coming back up from sewage lines.
Not sure why you to do so, you can still take show while standing in tub.
Do you have a video on how to change toilet 🚽 to shower 🚿
Thts one way of doing it.....pull the whole tub out 😅
How can I learn ur online course sir please
I missed the tub install. 😢
What kind of mixing valve is it ? Can you tell me the name of the fixture
Remodeling 2 bathrooms built in 60s
GROHE
Do you usually use a reamer to ream out the old pipe after you've cut it?
No, just remove burrs.
Obviously more precise with reamer but it’s overkill in my opinion
Where is the rest of the drain hook up?
I need full video pls
Bro reminds me of Woody Harrelson. 😂
why not use 2 inch right from the cut off
Not only is strain sized incorrectly, hot is supposed to be left and cold to right
Maybe watch beginning of video again 👍
incorrect to what? upc and IPC allow 1.5 in drain
@@beardedbarnstormer9577 not for a shower drain!
@@PlumbersThe1stLineOfDefense IPC and UPC both allow for 1.5 in shower drains. UPC for remodels under a certain size and IPC for all showers under a certain sq footage and GPH.
You're talking out of your ass
you missed the core point how you connect the sewer to the pan
This playlist id out of order. This should be video 2 not 4.
Thanks for noticing. Only one out of 300 that even went through it 😂
Don’t do it like this. Your asking for trouble.
How and be specific?
@@reidbalzer9514mainly the part where he tells you you shouldn’t do it like this. The shower drain needs to be 2”. Under no circumstances should it be 1-1/2. Main reason is the 1-1/2 drain can’t handle the water. The drian will fill completely it will cut off the air from the vent. And it will drain slowly. The reason it worked before was because the tub had an overflow drain that would allow air and water to enter the trap at the same time.
@@PlumbersThe1stLineOfDefense he says its not ideal, and yes thanks for the specific explanation that is understood and makes perfect sense. I would counter that like in this situation adding a 2 inch line all the way will massively increase the cost of a relatively simple job and I do not think it is necessary in 90% of cases like this. There is no way a 1 1/2" will fill completely under normal showering circumstances unless you are showering with no shower head or an obnoxiously large shower head. It would have to completely flood the drain hole for it not to be able to pull air in.
@@reidbalzer9514 and it will on majority of homes. Specially you start getting soap, shampoo and other products in the drain. It won’t take a lot for it to fill unless your trap is extremely close to the vent. But if that’s the case than it’s in reach why not just change the drain to 2”. It will not work in 90% of applications. I can promise you that. But like I said different circumstances will give different results, the majority having issues.