How to reassemble your vintage (and some newer) bicycle's threaded headset assembly. Installation and adjustment procedures are covered so you can get it right the first time.
Hello! I want to thank you personally for this video. No other video on UA-cam shows it this simply. This is the basics, perfectly explained and shown. thank you so much man. I've been trying to get rid of this wobble on my motorized bike, I haven't rode it more than a minute because I was scared of ripping the tube out forward while braking. Now it's perfect. thank you sir.
Very helpful. I was particularly interested in the orientation of the top & bottom bearings, which you corrected! Thanks! I am restoring an old Panasonic that has a threaded steerer tube and the visuals are priceless! One minor public service announcement: If you are working on a frame that is NOT steel, avoid clamping on the frame; insert the seatpost and clamp that.
Glad it was helpful. You're absolutely right about using the seat post instead of the frame to clamp your bike in a stand. Since I work on mainly older steel bikes I can clamp directly to the frame without any problems.
I will watch this video too, I'll be repacking the headset on one of those old Schwinn Suburbans I'm working on. It's been a while since I worked on a headset that wasn't the ahead design.
Hey, that Schwinn Racer your working on has those bladed forks. I remember seeing those some years back on my brothers old Schwinn bike when we were kids. I wonder what happened to his old bike? Probably rusted into oblivion sadly.
I like the look of these forks. Old Schwinn's were very well built, but a whole lot on the heavy side. Hopefully your brother's old Schwinn is still going strong. Thank you for watching my channel.
The red text used to illustrate bearing orientation during installation appears to be different from what the video itself shows. Please correct me if I am in error. Thank you.
It isn't as tight as it seems in the video. I typically tighten it down a little tighter than normal initially and then back it off a little as I adjust it. What you're trying to do is adjust the bearings just tight enough to remove all the play before tightening the locknut. I typically have to go through this sequence a few times before I get it the way I want it. Thank you for watching my channel.
@@GregDickerson-bikevideos thanks for the reply! Makes sense. Do you ever need to use a tool for the adjustable cup? Like channel locks or something? Or you always do that by hand, and use a wrench for the lock nut?
@@jeffb587 I try to do it by hand if I can. I sometimes use channel locks. If you do use channel locks be careful not to mar the adjustable cup. You can use part of an old inner tube wrapped around the adjustable cup to keep the channel locks from marring the adjustable cup.
The only video explaining the correct side of the bearings. I just completed the work on my bike. Thanks a lot for that!
Thanks, I'm glad it helped!
Hello! I want to thank you personally for this video. No other video on UA-cam shows it this simply. This is the basics, perfectly explained and shown. thank you so much man. I've been trying to get rid of this wobble on my motorized bike, I haven't rode it more than a minute because I was scared of ripping the tube out forward while braking. Now it's perfect. thank you sir.
your profile and your comment are mutually exclusive
Thank you Sir for showing the way. Now I can install my father's vintage bike properly
I'm glad you found it helpful. Thank you for watching my videos.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for posting this, Greg🙏
Very helpful. I was particularly interested in the orientation of the top & bottom bearings, which you corrected! Thanks! I am restoring an old Panasonic that has a threaded steerer tube and the visuals are priceless!
One minor public service announcement: If you are working on a frame that is NOT steel, avoid clamping on the frame; insert the seatpost and clamp that.
Glad it was helpful. You're absolutely right about using the seat post instead of the frame to clamp your bike in a stand. Since I work on mainly older steel bikes I can clamp directly to the frame without any problems.
Thank you, i just crashed my 96 timberline and need to replace the front fork, this was very helpful
Thanks Greg! Great quick tutorial, it looks like you have a pretty scenic bike repair spot! :D
I'm glad the information was useful. Thank you for watching my channel.
I will watch this video too, I'll be repacking the headset on one of those old Schwinn Suburbans I'm working on. It's been a while since I worked on a headset that wasn't the ahead design.
Always glad to hear about people keeping these old Schwinn's alive.
Like to see someone who greases threads with his fingers
Hey, that Schwinn Racer your working on has those bladed forks. I remember seeing those some years back on my brothers old Schwinn bike when we were kids. I wonder what happened to his old bike? Probably rusted into oblivion sadly.
I like the look of these forks. Old Schwinn's were very well built, but a whole lot on the heavy side. Hopefully your brother's old Schwinn is still going strong. Thank you for watching my channel.
The red text used to illustrate bearing orientation during installation appears to be different from what the video itself shows. Please correct me if I am in error. Thank you.
The red text is right. It is meant to correct the video. Thank you for watching my videos.
Bearings Facing Out: Correct?
Hey! I have a little querrey can i convert my hardtail which is thredded to a full threadless system?
The crown race was the part I wasn't sure about so thanks for skipping that part.
Raise 👈 it's not a race😋
looks like you got that headset on there really tight. is that ok?
It isn't as tight as it seems in the video. I typically tighten it down a little tighter than normal initially and then back it off a little as I adjust it. What you're trying to do is adjust the bearings just tight enough to remove all the play before tightening the locknut. I typically have to go through this sequence a few times before I get it the way I want it. Thank you for watching my channel.
@@GregDickerson-bikevideos thanks for the reply! Makes sense. Do you ever need to use a tool for the adjustable cup? Like channel locks or something? Or you always do that by hand, and use a wrench for the lock nut?
@@jeffb587 I try to do it by hand if I can. I sometimes use channel locks. If you do use channel locks be careful not to mar the adjustable cup. You can use part of an old inner tube wrapped around the adjustable cup to keep the channel locks from marring the adjustable cup.
grease?
What is your question about grease?