I was diagnosing double firing (#6 was registering 6000 rpm on my timing light with tach at idle!) on my v6 200 and pulled the switchboxes a couple of times. It got me thinking, what if the switchboxes had terminals with inline bullet connectors to make removing the fragile wires easier to change (especially on the water , we fish 50 miles offshore). These boxes are a pain as they are stacked on top of each other..
Replacement of all ignition coils is mandatory when replacing switchboxes. A single bad coil will damage a switchbox instantly. Engine may still work but we might get overheating from a second spark arriving 90 degrees before the good dpark on time.
I have a 1975 Merc Outboard 2 stroke 4 cyl 50hp. It has a Mercury 333-3213A3 ignition switch which mechanic said went bad (boat wouldnt start). I cant find an off brand (new version replacement for this. 2 or 3 original style are available for 450 USD +... i already bought 2 for close to a hundred... Does anybody know if this ignition box only deals with the boat starting? I ask because after one company never shipped me a used replacement, another one did and mechanic installed it. My issue before the replacement was boat wouldnt turn over. Now, with used replacement, boat starts, but its idling really fast (in forward and neutral), and when i give throttle on the controls, boat only goes a touch faster and maxes out just a touch mlre than trolling speed. REALLY SLOW. Feels like I have a 4hp motor insteaf of a 50hp. My mechanic thinks there's something to do with the ignition switch box and timing in the way that the motor is running really bad and revving really high. But I was thinking this ignition box only took care of ignition and not the way the motor runs once the boat is started. I'm now trying to find yet another ignition switch box in case the one that I got in is defective in a different way. Even though my boat is now starting, something is really wrong with it. Plus, oil is dripping from the bottom of my propeller now into a little pail since using the boat for the first time yesterday. If anybody knows I would appreciate any help I can get cuz I buried so much money into this old motor I'm losing my mind. Ps - i cant find a replacment for my model.
The tach reads pulses off the rectifier. There should be 2 yellow wires that connect to the rectifier and the signal wire that goes to your tach can be attached to either posts where the yellow wires connect. Typically I believe it's the Grey wire off your internal wiring harness. Could be brown as well. Son
Can I test with a multi meter signal from the rectifier? I know gauge works and is set to 6p. It worked with my other Mercury. I’m assuming the rectifier is bad or signal from stator maybe. What would be your procedure from here you think?
I got a few questions. I bought a 1975 boat with the mercury 115hp 6 in-line. Is it a 2 or 4 stroke outboard? Where at you fill the oil and what kind oil? What gas should I use?
Probably. It's strange because I've never had an issue with them before. I burned out a starter because of them (stupid on my part). I just thought I would share my thoughts on them and maybe help someone in the inline community. Son
Been having problems with those Amazon switch boxes and coils. I'm about to just shell out the money for the oem ones. Have u tried the real cdi switch boxes and how are they compared to mercury?
Jeff ferrie I’ve got 74 115 hp , I’ve replace ignition 114-2986 CDI and then it took out the trigger and replaced that and it took out ignition switch, and replaced it again , set timing was running fine in driveway took to river got up to 20mph and shut down again, called CDI help desk asked me what kind battery, Wallmart ever start ,, said to much juice coming back to motor and that I need regulator rectifier, and penn battery, have you seen this problem and give some input on it , haven’t got to test trigger or ignition switch yet to witch one went , can you do video on this situation??? Thanks Jeff 10/31/22
I just purchased a bass boat with a 80s merc 115 and have been having some issues. If it's not too much is there a way I could ask you some questions? I LOVE the motor and hate to lose it
So I recently took it to a mechanic who said a "Slip Ring" was bad and was causing the fuel pump to not operate correctly. Told me my only option besides cracking open the engine would be put in a inline electric fuel pump. Which I have. But I'm pretty sure the carbs need adjusted badly but not sure how to start that process. I just figured out while tinkering that each carb seems to operate more at specific speeds. But mayb it's adjusted wrong. A issues from the beginning seems to be that once I get going and it's been running a while it slightly drops in rpms and then when I shut it off it has issues restarting. I've watched almost all your videos. And I'm thinking mayb electrical is getting hot? I honestly don't know at this point. ANY advice would be appreciated
My 1987 115 doesn't idle for long at all. It dies super easy. 125 psi on all cylinders. Has a bad fuel hose but there is a filter between the pump and hose. I had to replace switchboxes and bought the aftermarket ones. Do you think the problem is the switchboxes or the hose? My carbs were rebuilt last year and I do not know if they were set correct. I still have the oem switchboxes
I have question about my 1992 Mercury 115 hp 2 stroke 4 cyl . There is a "cowl bracket" that's attached to front of engine and it has either 1 or 2 gaskets. It is leaking oil at where it is bolted to front bottom area of powerhead. A piece of the gasket came out. Looks like it would be hard to remove bracket without disassembling a bunch of stuff. I can see the bolt heads but would be hard to get wrench on them. Have you ever had to work on this before? I have a Seloc manual but they don't even mention anything about this area. Sorry for being so long but hope I'm somewhat clear. I could send pics / docs to show where I having problem. Can I attach files here are do I need to go elsewhere? THANKS ....... oh yea ....... your videos are terrific. I posted here cause I didn't know where else to post.
The gasket will need to be replaced. I'm sure its a lot of work but it's better than leaking oil everywhere. Oil has gone up significantly in price a long with fuel so the repair will literally pay for itself. Hope this helps. Son
I’ve got a 84 90hp l6 and I’ve got no spark on cylinder one. Followed the trigger test video and found that was good. Also tested coils those were good, I swapped spark plug wires and coil wires and still no spark on cyl one. I replaced the cdi boxes with some Amazon ones and still no spark on one. What am I missing? The motor seems to idle ok but doesn’t have much power
If you swapped the plug wires, say cylinder 2 which is firing to cylinder 1 and got nothing the the issue is either a bag plug, low compression, or not enough fuel. Just my 2 cents for what it's worth. Son
Check your distributor. Note the position of the wire that feeds plug/cylinder one. Take the cap off and manually rotate the flywheel until the rotor tip is pointing where the number one plug wire connects. Note the spacing of the rotor disk between the housing and the triangle shaped magnet/ trigger point. If the disk is warped slightly and contacts either the magnet housing or the trigger housing it shorts out and delivers very week or no spark. I had 2 cylinders acting that way due to warped disk. I bent the disk to flatten it out and it ran great for a few hours but it had been that way for too long so the disk reverted to the warped shape. I ordered a new disk but alas it had damaged the magnet housing and the magnet kept poping out and now I am out another $380 for a new trigger housing!
carefull going over anything but a fast idle on the hose. can and will cause chatter marks on the rod big ends, and on a cold motor galling and scoring the cylinders. skirts on pistons need time to swell up and get tighter. throw those boxes in the garbage if they are the cheap chinese ones! can double-fire and trash the motor. not worth the risk.
I have learned my lesson, used a cheap aftermarket And it lasted 10 minutes, waiting on quicksilver nos now.
Your vids are very helpful.
I was diagnosing double firing (#6 was registering 6000 rpm on my timing light with tach at idle!) on my v6 200 and pulled the switchboxes a couple of times. It got me thinking, what if the switchboxes had terminals with inline bullet connectors to make removing the fragile wires easier to change (especially on the water , we fish 50 miles offshore). These boxes are a pain as they are stacked on top of each other..
Replacement of all ignition coils is mandatory when replacing switchboxes.
A single bad coil will damage a switchbox instantly. Engine may still work but we might get overheating from a second spark arriving 90 degrees before the good dpark on time.
Sounds great 👍
I have a 1975 Merc Outboard 2 stroke 4 cyl 50hp. It has a Mercury 333-3213A3 ignition switch which mechanic said went bad (boat wouldnt start). I cant find an off brand (new version replacement for this. 2 or 3 original style are available for 450 USD +... i already bought 2 for close to a hundred... Does anybody know if this ignition box only deals with the boat starting? I ask because after one company never shipped me a used replacement, another one did and mechanic installed it. My issue before the replacement was boat wouldnt turn over. Now, with used replacement, boat starts, but its idling really fast (in forward and neutral), and when i give throttle on the controls, boat only goes a touch faster and maxes out just a touch mlre than trolling speed. REALLY SLOW. Feels like I have a 4hp motor insteaf of a 50hp. My mechanic thinks there's something to do with the ignition switch box and timing in the way that the motor is running really bad and revving really high. But I was thinking this ignition box only took care of ignition and not the way the motor runs once the boat is started. I'm now trying to find yet another ignition switch box in case the one that I got in is defective in a different way. Even though my boat is now starting, something is really wrong with it. Plus, oil is dripping from the bottom of my propeller now into a little pail since using the boat for the first time yesterday. If anybody knows I would appreciate any help I can get cuz I buried so much money into this old motor I'm losing my mind. Ps - i cant find a replacment for my model.
Totally off subject here. I have a 78 black max 150 you happen know which wire coming off the stator is the tach signal? The brown one?
The tach reads pulses off the rectifier. There should be 2 yellow wires that connect to the rectifier and the signal wire that goes to your tach can be attached to either posts where the yellow wires connect. Typically I believe it's the Grey wire off your internal wiring harness. Could be brown as well. Son
Can I test with a multi meter signal from the rectifier? I know gauge works and is set to 6p. It worked with my other Mercury. I’m assuming the rectifier is bad or signal from stator maybe. What would be your procedure from here you think?
Is it only older motors that have these switch boxes? I’m wondering if my 2006 50hp 4 stroke mercury has them too?
Correct.
Quick question, I was wondering what do you use to cap off the economizer circuit things on the carbs. Thanks
Shrink tubing. Make sure no fuel is in the carbs. Son
Nice 👍
I got a few questions. I bought a 1975 boat with the mercury 115hp 6 in-line. Is it a 2 or 4 stroke outboard? Where at you fill the oil and what kind oil? What gas should I use?
2 stroke. 50:1 ratio with the best gas u can find. Ethanol free is top notch. Son
tcw3 oil only NOT just any 2 stroke stuff for yard equipment
I wonder if the manufacturer of the aftermarket just missed the correct specs, or if there is a cost saving measure(s) that led to the inferior spark?
Probably. It's strange because I've never had an issue with them before. I burned out a starter because of them (stupid on my part). I just thought I would share my thoughts on them and maybe help someone in the inline community. Son
I’m having trouble with my 1981 black maxs 150 dies at WOT then starts right back up like nothing happened any suggestions
Not getting enough fuel. Check fuel flow all the way from the tank pick up to the carbs. Son
Where you purchase switch boxes? I have 1982 115 top
amzn.to/42PLPkI
What good price CDI good boxes.? How tell difference in price?
amzn.to/43cmMIJ
Been having problems with those Amazon switch boxes and coils. I'm about to just shell out the money for the oem ones. Have u tried the real cdi switch boxes and how are they compared to mercury?
Cdi is great. Just be careful because a lot of the cheap ones claim to be cdi. Son
amazon specials can double fire, trashing your motor
Do you have to replace bleed restricters in many of your engine repairers?
No.
@@MerCSonL6 are they intact usually are you just don’t worry about them
Jeff ferrie I’ve got 74 115 hp , I’ve replace ignition 114-2986 CDI and then it took out the trigger and replaced that and it took out ignition switch, and replaced it again , set timing was running fine in driveway took to river got up to 20mph and shut down again, called CDI help desk asked me what kind battery, Wallmart ever start ,, said to much juice coming back to motor and that I need regulator rectifier, and penn battery, have you seen this problem and give some input on it , haven’t got to test trigger or ignition switch yet to witch one went , can you do video on this situation??? Thanks Jeff 10/31/22
I have videos that test all of your ignition components. Do not guess. It's a waste of money. Son
I know ,, that watched most of them , but nothing on regulator rectifier and batteries sending to much current back to motor
Or types of batteries you should use for these CDI parts thanks Jeff
@@jefferyferrie5075 deep cycle marine batteries.
I just purchased a bass boat with a 80s merc 115 and have been having some issues. If it's not too much is there a way I could ask you some questions? I LOVE the motor and hate to lose it
Sure. What are your questions?
So I recently took it to a mechanic who said a "Slip Ring" was bad and was causing the fuel pump to not operate correctly. Told me my only option besides cracking open the engine would be put in a inline electric fuel pump. Which I have. But I'm pretty sure the carbs need adjusted badly but not sure how to start that process. I just figured out while tinkering that each carb seems to operate more at specific speeds. But mayb it's adjusted wrong. A issues from the beginning seems to be that once I get going and it's been running a while it slightly drops in rpms and then when I shut it off it has issues restarting. I've watched almost all your videos. And I'm thinking mayb electrical is getting hot? I honestly don't know at this point. ANY advice would be appreciated
@@jonmattison9248 do you have a distributor or adi ignition?
ADI. I just watched your video on ADIs and they look like aftermarket
My 1987 115 doesn't idle for long at all. It dies super easy. 125 psi on all cylinders. Has a bad fuel hose but there is a filter between the pump and hose. I had to replace switchboxes and bought the aftermarket ones. Do you think the problem is the switchboxes or the hose? My carbs were rebuilt last year and I do not know if they were set correct. I still have the oem switchboxes
amzn.to/3TB6Xbc
hey do you have parts for a 1250? im looking for a distributor "cam"
What exactly is a distributor cam? I'm drawing a blank. Son
I have question about my 1992 Mercury 115 hp 2 stroke 4 cyl . There is a "cowl bracket" that's attached to front of engine and it has either 1 or 2 gaskets. It is leaking oil at where it is bolted to front bottom area of powerhead. A piece of the gasket came out. Looks like it would be hard to remove bracket without disassembling a bunch of stuff. I can see the bolt heads but would be hard to get wrench on them. Have you ever had to work on this before? I have a Seloc manual but they don't even mention anything about this area. Sorry for being so long but hope I'm somewhat clear. I could send pics / docs to show where I having problem. Can I attach files here are do I need to go elsewhere? THANKS ....... oh yea ....... your videos are terrific. I posted here cause I didn't know where else to post.
The gasket will need to be replaced. I'm sure its a lot of work but it's better than leaking oil everywhere. Oil has gone up significantly in price a long with fuel so the repair will literally pay for itself. Hope this helps. Son
@@MerCSonL6 looked all over for replacement gaskets with no luck NLA..... any ideas.
@@pdlandry try marineengine.com
I’ve got a 84 90hp l6 and I’ve got no spark on cylinder one. Followed the trigger test video and found that was good. Also tested coils those were good, I swapped spark plug wires and coil wires and still no spark on cyl one. I replaced the cdi boxes with some Amazon ones and still no spark on one. What am I missing? The motor seems to idle ok but doesn’t have much power
If you swapped the plug wires, say cylinder 2 which is firing to cylinder 1 and got nothing the the issue is either a bag plug, low compression, or not enough fuel. Just my 2 cents for what it's worth. Son
@@MerCSonL6 compression is good. I don’t have spark on cylinder one no matter what I try. Can a stator cause a no spark on one cylinder?
@@kylelarson5067 do you have spark on cylinder 2? If so swap to cylinder 1 and see if you still have spark.
@@MerCSonL6 I did, still no spark one one. Lol I’m lost
Check your distributor. Note the position of the wire that feeds plug/cylinder one. Take the cap off and manually rotate the flywheel until the rotor tip is pointing where the number one plug wire connects. Note the spacing of the rotor disk between the housing and the triangle shaped magnet/ trigger point. If the disk is warped slightly and contacts either the magnet housing or the trigger housing it shorts out and delivers very week or no spark.
I had 2 cylinders acting that way due to warped disk. I bent the disk to flatten it out and it ran great for a few hours but it had been that way for too long so the disk reverted to the warped shape. I ordered a new disk but alas it had damaged the magnet housing and the magnet kept poping out and now I am out another $380 for a new trigger housing!
carefull going over anything but a fast idle on the hose. can and will cause chatter marks on the rod big ends, and on a cold motor galling and scoring the cylinders. skirts on pistons need time to swell up and get tighter. throw those boxes in the garbage if they are the cheap chinese ones! can double-fire and trash the motor. not worth the risk.
Volume is to low
Turn your volume up. Son
Global warming lol
I got some questions on a mercury 850 can you email me?
Yes. Son