Eons ago (ha), I put myself through college, working as a mason. It is always refreshing to see such excellent work. Outstanding job. Very well done. Thank you for showing your technique. Cheers, from the States...
I would have liked to see how you level the foundation and the setup of the layout. I am not a construction guy. So, this type of detail (the technical aspects) would be of interest.
It always restores my faith in humanity when I see a skilled laborer at work. There's something to be said about those who are willing & able to withstand the long, and oftentimes, tedious process of a successful project outcome. Grit & fortitude!
I would say, the key is to have the end, the outcome, the reward, so to say, in focus. Once you lose this out of sight, you lose strength. I think, this basically applies to life in total. For me as a Christian, having my eyes on the reward, the outcome of my life, gives me the strength to go through more uncomfortable times :-) Thanks for your comment!
Thank you for the English translation and the tools wow Bosch is expensive but good Quality, being level and square is important . Yes the stone wall is exactly purposely strong and great for the 🪵 logs. Beautiful.
That Bosch drill was so damn nice! I'm not plugging for them, either. I'm a sculptor. I've never seen one of these new drills! I have a 30 year old heavy duty corded Bosch, but this blue model you were using... kind of impressed. Even the case was dope!
Ich warte brav auf Teil 2, denn Ich habe bald selbst ein ähnliches (kleineres) Projekt und hoffe dass ich mir bei dir etwas abschauen kann. Mir gefällt im übrigen dein Ruhe, scheinst kein Zeitdruck zuhaben. 👍🏻
@@TheLandArksProject ich hab Maler und Lackierer gelernt und zeitweise als Hausmeister gearbeitet. Bin aber nicht wirklich erfahren was Holzbau angeht. Ich schau mir gern was ab oder Probier einfach drauf los…. Man darf sich halt nicht dumm anstellen 😉
@@Tomthebear Na, dann kannst du schon mal mehr als ich; ich habe gelernt, am Schreibtisch zu sitzen und einen Stift zu halten ;-) Aber meine Einstellung ist auch, einfach zu machen und dann zu sehen, wie es wird.
I am currently doing a very similar foundation, I have unlimited rock on my property, not as pretty, I have churt and flint I just have to pile it up. I use premixed Type S motor and forms front and back. I poured 4 corner piers 12"x12" 30 inches deep after backfilling to finished grade. I set forms between those piers and I pour 8" deep general purpose concrete which will end up below grade, then set stones against the forms and fill with the mortar. These stone walls won't really be load bearing, but will keep my logs well off the ground, and above the splash level to keep the logs dry. I set my stones like you did both inside and out, then finish much like you did, but tuck point after it sets up and smooth with a soft bench brush with water. Nice work you are making a beautiful building. Guten Nacht.
Thank you for your comment. Sounds like you have a nice project going on on your property. "but tuck point after it sets up and smooth with a soft bench brush with water" ... I didn't understand ... (English is not my mother tongue ...)
Naja. Nur Mittelmaß. Kein forstnerbohter für die dübellöcher? Und abflammen und dann mit leinöl spielen braucht kein Mensch. Aber die mauerpappe vergessen gegen aufsteigende Feuchtigkeit das ist der burner!!!!😂😂😂😂
@@thomasschafer7268 Danke für deinen Kommentar! Zum Verständnis und Lerneffekt: (1) Forstnerbohrer, wofür? Um die Scheibe mit Mutter im Holz versenken zu können? Das halte ich bei einem liegenden Holz, das eindringender Feuchte ausgesetzt sein kann, für eine ganz schlechte Idee. Damit baut man eine Badewanne. Ästethisch ansprechend, ja; hinsichtlich Dauerhaftigkeit des Holzes, nein! (2) Mauerpappe unter das Schwellholz ... also, das ist nun wirklich sehr kontrovers diskutiert; Stichwort Badewanne. Wenn dir Wasser zwischen Pappe und Schwelle eindringt, was bei Starkregen- und -windereignissen immer passieren kann, schwimmt deine Schwelle erst einmal für ein paar Tage. Ich weiß, der Standard-Architekt, -Ingenieur, -Handwerker macht das so; ABER viele, die auf Altbausanierung speziealisiert sind, schlagen bei diesem Schritt die Hände über dem Kopf zusammen. Ich habe mich zuvor belesen und entschieden, es nicht so zu machen. Gruß
Thank you for the compliment! There is basically not much technique included in this. Placing some stones against a board, filling concrete behind it, and then at the end cleaning the surface of the stone. I would say anyone could do this ;-)
Der englische Begriff (jedenfalls in den USA) für Schwellhölzer ist "Sleeper". Mein Vater und ich haben früher Mauern und Zäune aus Feldsteinen hergestellt. Dazu haben wir ein Spezialpapier verwendet, welches die Aushärtung der ersten 2 cm Beton stark verlangsamt. Wir haben einzelne 70x50cm Platten in einer Form auf dem Boden liegend erstellt und zur Befestigung Moniereisen in die Rückenseite eingebracht. Nach 2 Tagen wurde die Platte aus der Form gehoben und die Steinseite ausgewaschen. Dann sind wir wie Sie vorgegangen, also ein Holzkonstruktion als Wand aufgestellt. Das ist über 40 Jahre her, ich weiß gar nicht, ob es das Papier überhaupt noch gibt... Mir gefällt Ihre Arbeit, habe ein Like und Abo da gelassen...
Sehr gut, danke! Jetzt, wo ich es lese, erinnere ich mich; "sleeper" heißen, glaube ich, auch die Bahnschwellen ... Interessante Technik. War sicherlich keine leichte Arbeit. Ich habe mir im Zuge der Arbeit auch überlegt, dass ich das beim nächsten Mal anders mache. Ich war ebenfalls zu dem Ergebnis gekommen, dass eine liegende Vorfertigung in Form kleinerer Platten wesentlich schlauer wäre. Ich bin noch am überlegen, wie ich die Stoßfugen gestalterisch löse - habe zwar schon eine Idee, bin mir aber nicht sicher, ob das letztlich gut aussieht. Wie habt ihr das damals mit den Stoßfugen zwischen den einzelnen Platten gemacht? Hinsichtlich des Papieres. Das wird wohl ein Papier gewesen sein, das mit Verzögerer getränkt war oder so. Wenn man die entsprechende Seite der Schalung großzügig mit Betonverzögerer einpinselt, dürfte das einen ähnlichen Effekt haben, sofern der nicht ins Holz gezogen wird. Beste Grüße
Thanks for your advice! About this step, there is discussion - at least here in Germany. If I understand correctly what you mean, the problem with waterproof isolation is: once there is water getting between the wood and the isolation (e.g. heavy wind and rain), this water is entrapped and your wood will swim - a very bad scenario. In fact, a lot of damage has been done to some old houses with this step when people tried to renovate it.
@@TheLandArksProject Interesting. It is double edge sword. Maybe somr isolation which can drain. Or put wood on steel footers all over the place and have gap planks with insulation which could be exchanged
@@JMiskovsky Maybe, you can be creative ;-) Maybe we should also study the old buildings we have here in northern Europe, probably also in Russia - I don't know. They built houses hundreds of years ago and their sill plates are still fine. And they did not have any of these modern materials, but they apparently did sth right. I'm not that familiar with this, but I will try to get more into this by time.
Great video, the sound of chisel and stones is almost therapeutic , but i wish it werent abruptly disturbed by redundant sound of music in the background ..
Thank you for your comment. Yes, the music issue is a question of taste... and I understand the point of having "natural sounds" only very well. That's why in my later videos I didn't use music.
Wonderful work. Thanks for showing us your project. I have never seen anyone else grout between the foundation and the sill plates. Would you please explain how you inserted the grout between the wood and stone so that it was level and followed the contour of the wood so that there was not gap? Also how did you make the taper in the grout such that the water fell directly to the stone. Also, what material is the grout? Is it cement of some type or perhaps concrete? What is the mixture? Much Thanks
Thank you for your comment. I hope I got the questions correctly... I first leveled the sill plates with the wooden wedges shown at 12:50 and bolted them down into the wall. In a second step I filled the gap with mortar You want your mortar (or your concrete with very small pebbles) to be low in shrinkage (cement reduces its volume when it hardens and dries). A high cement ratio increases the shrinkage due to chemical processes and a high water content increases the shrinkage due to physical processes (drying). Therefor you don't want to have too much cement in your mixture and also not too much water. You can lower the water content by using chemical admixtures (I don't know how they are exactly called outside Germany, the term I found is "Water reducing agent"). Now, I am not too experienced in regard to cement mixtures and I don't know anymore the mixture I used. I would use (in parts by volume): 1 part cement, 4 parts sand and perhaps a water reducing agent - the last one is optional.
@@TheLandArksProject Thank you Sir. Then I imagine that you pushed the grout under the sill plates with a piece of wood and then sculpted the angle with a tool. Beautiful work. Seems like a good idea. I have not seen anyone else do this for a building but I have heard of using grout under heavy machinery after being leveled with wedges. In that case a form is built around the machine base and the grout is poured. I might like to try making a level form to pour the same shape as you created and then mount the sill plates afterward. Your technique seems the simplest however, and will perhaps give the best seal with the sill plates. Thanks for sharing your idea.
Good day. Just discovered your channel. As a born again ChristIan, I am so happy to ha've stumbled across your video. It is the second video of all my chanells I follow (68 chanells I think) the 1st one is Kingdom Glory Leather....this guys does call kinds of leather works. I m happy to see God is taking pre-eminence in all you are doing before anythingelse. God bless you on your way forward during this epic build that you have started
Hello Neville. Thank you for your very kind words. The Lord Jesus is indeed most important and should be our every day's priority. Nice to hear, that you have the same mindset. I'm always happy to meet brothers and sisters in Christ. The Lord's blessings to you too!
@@TheLandArksProject thank you sir. Yes it is a pleasure that we have the opportunity to converse like this about our Maker. Be blessed and have a wonderful and exciting New Year to u and your family. I can see your year is full of excitement. Glad that you sharing it with us all👏👌
You may find it easier to put some dry sand in between the rocks on the outwards facing edge. This means less time removing cement, and you can add in mortar pointing after
@@TheLandArksProject my apologies. As you build the walls up, add a small amount of dry sand around the rocks, in the area that will be facing out (or visible when the wall is finished). This stops cement running over the front of the stones, but you will be able to cement behind this to hold the stones in place. It means that at the end, when you remove the forms, you just hose away the sand. Rather than trying to scrub and chip away the cement.
@@ML6103 Thank you for clarification! Interesting idea. That way you would also escape the need to remove the forms at the right time - cement not too soft, not too hard - that would be a big plus. Thanks for that input!
@@ML6103 If he uses a dry mix, one that you can form a ball in your hand that should not be a problem if you place your mortar slightly back from the face of the stone and go back and point after the fact.
Thanks for that tip. I don't like that grey cement film on the stone surface, that's why I washed it away. But maybe it looks better your way. You have an example where someone did it that way?
@@TheLandArksProject I did it like this when I worked in construction. Do the masonry then let the concrete dry a little, without letting it harden, then take a steel brush and start cleaning without water.
@@roysierra84 Obviously not the word "dry water". Go back and read what you wrote. He is using a stiff brush which is going to create paste which needs to be cleaned off which is why you would need a slow stream of water.
Look into slip forming the stone walls. It allows you to see what you are doing to get a better idea of what the joints are going to look like. Hope you didn't use portland for the mortar mix. It is too hard. I put just enough water in the mix so I could form a ball in my hand. Yours is too wet. It is easier to go back in do pointing than to have to clean the excess mortar off so I kept the mortar back from the face of the stone somewhat before i set the stone. You should think about putting some horizontal rebar in the wall as you build it to keep it from cracking (temperature bars). Nothing better than stone work and you did a good job. A brick hammer would have made it easier to remove the excess mortar than a trowel.
Thank you for your comment, Gary. (1) "Look into slip forming the stone walls. It allows you to see what you are doing to get a better idea of what the joints are going to look like.” >>> I don’t know if I correctly understand the process … you’re still using a form to hold your stones in place, don’t you? How can you then see your joints? (2) “Hope you didn't use portland for the mortar mix. It is too hard.” >>> Yes, I used Portland cement. I know, some people say this can cause problems with the stones (with rather soft stones?). (3) “It is easier to go back in do pointing than to have to clean the excess mortar off so I kept the mortar back from the face of the stone somewhat before i set the stone.” >>> I don’t understand what you mean …
@@TheLandArksProject he is suggesting you use less runny mortar so it doesn't run between the form and the stone. It will though leave gaps around the stone which you will come back and fill after you strip the forms. I don't really agree with this method, but it is how I am doing mine only because I can't get my mortar to fill all the gaps as it is. I don't want my mortar too runny so this is how it winds up anyway. Also I certainly use portland, and that is the only way I would do it. Type S is structural strength mortar, but churt and flint is extrodinarly hard, so that may help.
@@integr8er66 Thank you for clarification. Yes, with hard stones I wouldn't see a problem using Portland. Sandstone or so, to me appears like it is a rather soft stone ... here the shrinkage of the cement might cause problems. But I'm far away from being an expert on this.
Hola, te escribo desde peru. Me gustaria saber que materiales estas utilizando, por favor para proximos videos mencionar lo que te estoy solicitando. Gracias; por tu respuesta y bendiciones.
What materials? It's cement and a sand-pebble mix. Added was a liquifier and cooked starch. Cooked starch was borrowed from an old Chinese method; they added rice water (containing cooked rice starch) to the lime mortar when they built the Chinese wall. This made the mortar stronger. Some Chinese research was made which seem to indicate that this also has a positive effect with cement ...
In 2nd mortar mix you added a liquid polymer resin with a darker substance. Can you explain. Does this addition shorten setting/working time with the mortar? Very interesting
Oh, well, it's not that exciting as you think it is ... technically, you could call the white stuff a polymer, a biopolymer to be exact, namely corn starch (cooked in water). The brown liquid is a liquefier; it reduces the amount of water needed to give your concrete the consistency you want it to have and thereby it increases the strength of the concrete. The following graphic shows the relationship between the concrete's strength and the used water-cement ratio. What it tells you is, the more water you use, the weaker your concrete is. www.researchgate.net/figure/Strength-to-water-cement-ratio-relationship-of-conventional-concrete-31_fig4_265251400
@@TheLandArksProject I used regular mason mortar mix with just a small bit of Portland mixed in with it. A acrylic polymer emulsion bonding agent will make the mix a bit more sticky and easier to handle. My wall is going on 50 years and not one crack. I also put only enough water in the mix that a ball of it would keep its form.
To say it right at the beginning: It’s not needed. It basically was intended to increase the strength of the concrete. The brown component is a liquefier (lignin sulfonate salts. For quite a time standard. Today exist more efficient but also more expensive liquefiers, polycarboxylate ethers, PCE). I don’t know how familiar you are with this … Liquefier reduce the amount of water you need to make your concrete workable, and thereby your concrete gets harder. The more water you add to your concrete, the weaker it will be. The white mass is cooked starch. It’s kind of an experiment … something like this has been used by the old Chinese (“sticky rice mortar”), but they made it with lime, not with Portland Cement. There it influenced the growth of the crystal structure of the Portlandite Ca(OH)2 - if I remember correctly; it made it denser and thereby increased the strength. Same was observed by a research group to happen with the crystal structure of the CSH-phases (calcium silicate hydrate) of the Portland cement. But again, this is by far not necessary. Greetings!
3 роки тому
Wenn man ein ganzes haus mit diesen naturstein baut, hat man dann probleme mit der wärme-erzeugung im winter? Kann mir vorstellen dass dann heizen kaum was bringt aufgrund der kalten steine überall um einen herum
Ich habe noch nie in einem solchen Haus gelebt. Aber ich gehe davon aus, mit gewöhnlicher Heizung, wird das schwierig, es schön warm zu bekommen. Mit einem Holzofen, der tüchtig feuert, kann das schon anders aussehen. Man könnte natürlich in Betracht ziehen, die Wände auf der Innenseite zu dämmen. Das kann aber Probleme mit dem Taupunkt geben ... Ich würde mir kein Haus ganz aus Naturstein bauen. Dafür mag ich Wärme zu sehr.
I'm not sure if you are really interested in a response, but I will invest the time to give you one. "No rebar in the concrete means very limited strength?" Yes and No. The question is: strength / resistance against >what
@@TheLandArksProject Temperature rebars will help with the expansion and contraction in the wall more than anything else and help the prevent cracking. They perform the same function as ladder reinforcing in concrete block walls.
*laugh*, yes, probably. If I had to use such small stones again, I would use another technique, for sure. It was the first time I did sth like this and I had to somehow come along with what I had at hand. Greetings from Germany!
Je n'avais que des pierres petites et parfois très plates (~ 4 cm). Je devais trouver un moyen de traiter ces pierres. C'est comme ça que ça a fonctionné pour moi ;-)
I SUBSCRIBED I PRAY FOR IT TO BE A EASY BUILD ✝️amen. DONT YOU WISH YOU COULD GO HELP INSTEAD OF SITTING HERE WATCHING 🧐. I would paint the rocks with clear gloss 🥰. Perfect 👍
@@TheLandArksProject Yes I have stones in front of my house and used , olive 🫒 oil. I just loved every minute of this video. Makes me want to build a house. I’d build a big Christmas cabin 😍. I’m glad you wrote me back sir. I hope you build a nice fireplace in your living room. A double sides fireplace. So your bedroom has one. I like watching. BABOO houses. Mud stove. Mud fireplace. It’s free that’s the best part. You don’t have to bye anything to build a house 🏠 I can’t wait to see it when it’s done , and hope we get to see the inside. Im learning how to make furniture with the wood crates. You can make it for free. THE BEST THINGS IN LIFE ARE ABSOLUTELY FREE ✝️. Take care you sweet beautiful smart Man U. I’ll watch part 2 now. , may God give his protection to you , and enough energy to build. Winter is here. Keep warm ,,and cover your head see you soon darling
other parts 02: the wooden structure ... ua-cam.com/video/y2Mao6fLq8U/v-deo.html 03A: the roof, part A ... ua-cam.com/video/S1DwnN2k6gY/v-deo.html 03B: the roof, part B ... ua-cam.com/video/Jooz0XbM9r4/v-deo.html
nice ever think about putting in an ondol for reserve heat? before the floors are pour or the thresh holds installed it is the perfect time.... they are simple technology invented 7000 years ago for heating the floors with sideways flueing and in the 1800s they put a heat eexchanger directly above and gravityfed heat into the structures they called them croation furnaces hear in the usa
I'm hearing about this for the very first time. I think I won't apply this technique in that project. But basically, this shed is just a try on finding a building method I want to use when building my own house. So, I will read into this technique and maybe then use it in my house. In every case, thanks a lot for this information! I highly appreciate such additional information! Greetings & Blessings
Beton: 1 Volumenteil Zement, 4 Volumenteile Kies (in Deutschland eine Mischung aus Sand und kleinen Steinchen, üblicherweise kleiner als 16mm). Die braune Flüssigkeit ist ein Betonverflüssiger, damit man weniger Wasser benötigt. Das weiße ist gekochte Stärke.
What satisfaction there must be in creating beauty in a simple functional wall.
Eons ago (ha), I put myself through college, working as a mason. It is always refreshing to see such excellent work. Outstanding job. Very well done. Thank you for showing your technique. Cheers, from the States...
@@craig-michaelkierce1366 thanks for your comment. Greetings from Germany
I would have liked to see how you level the foundation and the setup of the layout. I am not a construction guy. So, this type of detail (the technical aspects) would be of interest.
It always restores my faith in humanity when I see a skilled laborer at work.
There's something to be said about those who are willing & able to withstand the long, and oftentimes, tedious process of a successful project outcome.
Grit & fortitude!
I would say, the key is to have the end, the outcome, the reward, so to say, in focus. Once you lose this out of sight, you lose strength.
I think, this basically applies to life in total. For me as a Christian, having my eyes on the reward, the outcome of my life, gives me the strength to go through more uncomfortable times :-)
Thanks for your comment!
Right on...
Excellent foundation choice, can’t wait to enjoy the total build. Thanks for sharing.
you're welcome
Only the best video ever! I love how the stones came out!
Thank you for the English translation and the tools wow Bosch is expensive but good Quality, being level and square is important . Yes the stone wall is exactly purposely strong and great for the 🪵 logs. Beautiful.
BEAUTIFUL
Thanks
What an exciting project you're undertaking. May it continue to go well. Beautiful result!
Thank you!
Congratulations! Very beautiful ! I learn and Will construction my house! Thank you!
I am very happy to hear that. Have your goal before your eyes.
Nice work. I'm looking forward to the next part.
I really like hiw you anchored the bottom plate nice job stone work is art 🎨
Beautiful!
Phenomenal work, beautiful! That’s what I want for my cabin, but dam that’s a lot of extra work!
So worth it in the end.
Beautiful 🙏🏻
Very nice! It does take a lot of cleaning and time setting up the forms and stone
9:15 I completely lost it 🤣🤣🤣 gute Arbeit, sieht schoen aus
Danke!
Fantastic work. Thank you for sharing.
Amazing work. Very beautiful and I am sure it is very strong.
I hope so! =D
But yes, it is definitely enough for this purpose.
LOVED IT!
Thank you!
Super schön ,Fill Arbeit...
Überaus fleißig und ein schönes Werk.
Dankeschön! Nettes Bild!
That was enjoyable. From Arcola, Texas ( waiting to see if Tropical Storm Nicholas is going to bring us any rain ). Does not look like it now.
Thank you for your comment! Oh, we had enough rain this summer, felt like autumn. I could send you some buckets, if you need ;-)
Working barefoot on a construction site? You have some balls of steel!
boots of steel would be better ;)
Great Start
Thank you!
And when I look at the wood structure rising, I would say, it gets even better. ;-) I really love the look. But more on this in part02!
That Bosch drill was so damn nice! I'm not plugging for them, either. I'm a sculptor. I've never seen one of these new drills! I have a 30 year old heavy duty corded Bosch, but this blue model you were using... kind of impressed. Even the case was dope!
I like that machine and the case too ;-) quite a nice idea with these cases
Absolut Großartig!
Danke
Beautiful results, hard work and labor as a passion never hurts. You have a subscriber, looking forward to more videos like this if you do more 👍
Ich warte brav auf Teil 2, denn Ich habe bald selbst ein ähnliches (kleineres) Projekt und hoffe dass ich mir bei dir etwas abschauen kann.
Mir gefällt im übrigen dein Ruhe, scheinst kein Zeitdruck zuhaben. 👍🏻
Freut mich zu hören, dass du Ähnliches vorhast. Bist du im handwerklichen Bereich versiert?
@@TheLandArksProject ich hab Maler und Lackierer gelernt und zeitweise als Hausmeister gearbeitet. Bin aber nicht wirklich erfahren was Holzbau angeht.
Ich schau mir gern was ab oder Probier einfach drauf los…. Man darf sich halt nicht dumm anstellen 😉
@@Tomthebear Na, dann kannst du schon mal mehr als ich; ich habe gelernt, am Schreibtisch zu sitzen und einen Stift zu halten ;-)
Aber meine Einstellung ist auch, einfach zu machen und dann zu sehen, wie es wird.
@@TheLandArksProject dafür stellst dich aber nicht dumm an , Respekt 😊
Looks good !
I love slipform stone masonry. Cool technique.
Thanks for your comment! I love the look too, but happened to be pretty labor-intensive ... :-D
I am currently doing a very similar foundation, I have unlimited rock on my property, not as pretty, I have churt and flint I just have to pile it up. I use premixed Type S motor and forms front and back. I poured 4 corner piers 12"x12" 30 inches deep after backfilling to finished grade. I set forms between those piers and I pour 8" deep general purpose concrete which will end up below grade, then set stones against the forms and fill with the mortar. These stone walls won't really be load bearing, but will keep my logs well off the ground, and above the splash level to keep the logs dry. I set my stones like you did both inside and out, then finish much like you did, but tuck point after it sets up and smooth with a soft bench brush with water. Nice work you are making a beautiful building.
Guten Nacht.
Thank you for your comment. Sounds like you have a nice project going on on your property. "but tuck point after it sets up and smooth with a soft bench brush with water" ... I didn't understand ... (English is not my mother tongue ...)
wow amazing love it
Schwellhölzer is called a sill plate in English. I like how you work!
Good job and quite a neat idea for the foundation
Naja. Nur Mittelmaß. Kein forstnerbohter für die dübellöcher? Und abflammen und dann mit leinöl spielen braucht kein Mensch. Aber die mauerpappe vergessen gegen aufsteigende Feuchtigkeit das ist der burner!!!!😂😂😂😂
@@thomasschafer7268 Danke für deinen Kommentar! Zum Verständnis und Lerneffekt: (1) Forstnerbohrer, wofür? Um die Scheibe mit Mutter im Holz versenken zu können? Das halte ich bei einem liegenden Holz, das eindringender Feuchte ausgesetzt sein kann, für eine ganz schlechte Idee. Damit baut man eine Badewanne. Ästethisch ansprechend, ja; hinsichtlich Dauerhaftigkeit des Holzes, nein! (2) Mauerpappe unter das Schwellholz ... also, das ist nun wirklich sehr kontrovers diskutiert; Stichwort Badewanne. Wenn dir Wasser zwischen Pappe und Schwelle eindringt, was bei Starkregen- und -windereignissen immer passieren kann, schwimmt deine Schwelle erst einmal für ein paar Tage. Ich weiß, der Standard-Architekt, -Ingenieur, -Handwerker macht das so; ABER viele, die auf Altbausanierung speziealisiert sind, schlagen bei diesem Schritt die Hände über dem Kopf zusammen.
Ich habe mich zuvor belesen und entschieden, es nicht so zu machen.
Gruß
interesting approach
Looks good 👍 🇨🇦
Thanky you!
Excelente labor
Muchas gracias!
Nice job, very impressed by your technical 👍
Thank you for the compliment!
There is basically not much technique included in this. Placing some stones against a board, filling concrete behind it, and then at the end cleaning the surface of the stone. I would say anyone could do this ;-)
Der englische Begriff (jedenfalls in den USA) für Schwellhölzer ist "Sleeper". Mein Vater und ich haben früher Mauern und Zäune aus Feldsteinen hergestellt. Dazu haben wir ein Spezialpapier verwendet, welches die Aushärtung der ersten 2 cm Beton stark verlangsamt. Wir haben einzelne 70x50cm Platten in einer Form auf dem Boden liegend erstellt und zur Befestigung Moniereisen in die Rückenseite eingebracht. Nach 2 Tagen wurde die Platte aus der Form gehoben und die Steinseite ausgewaschen. Dann sind wir wie Sie vorgegangen, also ein Holzkonstruktion als Wand aufgestellt. Das ist über 40 Jahre her, ich weiß gar nicht, ob es das Papier überhaupt noch gibt... Mir gefällt Ihre Arbeit, habe ein Like und Abo da gelassen...
Sehr gut, danke! Jetzt, wo ich es lese, erinnere ich mich; "sleeper" heißen, glaube ich, auch die Bahnschwellen ...
Interessante Technik. War sicherlich keine leichte Arbeit. Ich habe mir im Zuge der Arbeit auch überlegt, dass ich das beim nächsten Mal anders mache. Ich war ebenfalls zu dem Ergebnis gekommen, dass eine liegende Vorfertigung in Form kleinerer Platten wesentlich schlauer wäre. Ich bin noch am überlegen, wie ich die Stoßfugen gestalterisch löse - habe zwar schon eine Idee, bin mir aber nicht sicher, ob das letztlich gut aussieht. Wie habt ihr das damals mit den Stoßfugen zwischen den einzelnen Platten gemacht?
Hinsichtlich des Papieres. Das wird wohl ein Papier gewesen sein, das mit Verzögerer getränkt war oder so. Wenn man die entsprechende Seite der Schalung großzügig mit Betonverzögerer einpinselt, dürfte das einen ähnlichen Effekt haben, sofern der nicht ins Holz gezogen wird.
Beste Grüße
Настолько все делается пунктуальность. 👍👍👍👍👍
look really nice
Did you ever put walls around your structure? I would love to see a video about that if you ever have the time. Beautiful work. Much thanks.
Well, I did put a wooden structure on top of it, if that is what you mean 😉 ua-cam.com/video/y2Mao6fLq8U/v-deo.html
@@TheLandArksProject Aaah! I see now that it was never intended to have walls. Better that way. Walls would hide the beautiful frame.
Super strong foundation buddy
I think that is an old technique that does something with the carbon in the wood. It may act as a preservative.
Maravilha de projeto.
Between wood and concrete I would add some waterproof isolation in order to be sure that it will not take moisture.
Thanks for your advice! About this step, there is discussion - at least here in Germany. If I understand correctly what you mean, the problem with waterproof isolation is: once there is water getting between the wood and the isolation (e.g. heavy wind and rain), this water is entrapped and your wood will swim - a very bad scenario. In fact, a lot of damage has been done to some old houses with this step when people tried to renovate it.
@@TheLandArksProject Interesting. It is double edge sword. Maybe somr isolation which can drain. Or put wood on steel footers all over the place and have gap planks with insulation which could be exchanged
@@JMiskovsky Maybe, you can be creative ;-)
Maybe we should also study the old buildings we have here in northern Europe, probably also in Russia - I don't know. They built houses hundreds of years ago and their sill plates are still fine. And they did not have any of these modern materials, but they apparently did sth right. I'm not that familiar with this, but I will try to get more into this by time.
@@CyberDiary2 Thanks for your comment. Would you please explain why?
Great video, the sound of chisel and stones is almost therapeutic , but i wish it werent abruptly disturbed by redundant sound of music in the background ..
Thank you for your comment. Yes, the music issue is a question of taste... and I understand the point of having "natural sounds" only very well. That's why in my later videos I didn't use music.
@@TheLandArksProject that is delightful to hear, I shall watch the newer videos with great excitement.
thank you .
👍👍응원합니다 👍🇰🇷
Brilliantly done, the small stone base is beautiful, do you think a power washer would of helped?
Thank you for your comment! Do you mean a power washer to wash off the mortar?
I like your crocs. Where can I buy those? ^^ kidding. thank you for sharing this film uts so Beautiful procedure . oneday I will do it for my cabin.
Unfortunately, I cannot sell you mine, they're broken now 😭but you will surely find some 😋
Good job! Why did you burn the surface of the woods? What is it good for?
It's called burnishing. It's a way to preserve the wood with chemicals. I've seen several videos on UA-cam about it.
Japanese method, is called Yakisugi. Keeps the wood more and longer sustainable. Livelong rot shelter.
Is there any drainage installed under that concrete footings layer? Any moisture barrier?
Wonderful work. Thanks for showing us your project. I have never seen anyone else grout between the foundation and the sill plates. Would you please explain how you inserted the grout between the wood and stone so that it was level and followed the contour of the wood so that there was not gap? Also how did you make the taper in the grout such that the water fell directly to the stone. Also, what material is the grout? Is it cement of some type or perhaps concrete? What is the mixture? Much Thanks
Thank you for your comment. I hope I got the questions correctly... I first leveled the sill plates with the wooden wedges shown at 12:50 and bolted them down into the wall. In a second step I filled the gap with mortar You want your mortar (or your concrete with very small pebbles) to be low in shrinkage (cement reduces its volume when it hardens and dries). A high cement ratio increases the shrinkage due to chemical processes and a high water content increases the shrinkage due to physical processes (drying). Therefor you don't want to have too much cement in your mixture and also not too much water. You can lower the water content by using chemical admixtures (I don't know how they are exactly called outside Germany, the term I found is "Water reducing agent"). Now, I am not too experienced in regard to cement mixtures and I don't know anymore the mixture I used. I would use (in parts by volume): 1 part cement, 4 parts sand and perhaps a water reducing agent - the last one is optional.
@@TheLandArksProject Thank you Sir. Then I imagine that you pushed the grout under the sill plates with a piece of wood and then sculpted the angle with a tool. Beautiful work. Seems like a good idea. I have not seen anyone else do this for a building but I have heard of using grout under heavy machinery after being leveled with wedges. In that case a form is built around the machine base and the grout is poured. I might like to try making a level form to pour the same shape as you created and then mount the sill plates afterward. Your technique seems the simplest however, and will perhaps give the best seal with the sill plates. Thanks for sharing your idea.
What do you put between concreed and wood? is it good to puy some rooberoid(roofing material)? thank you for video
Sorry, I don't get your question... maybe in other words?
Good day. Just discovered your channel. As a born again ChristIan, I am so happy to ha've stumbled across your video. It is the second video of all my chanells I follow (68 chanells I think) the 1st one is Kingdom Glory Leather....this guys does call kinds of leather works. I m happy to see God is taking pre-eminence in all you are doing before anythingelse. God bless you on your way forward during this epic build that you have started
Hello Neville. Thank you for your very kind words. The Lord Jesus is indeed most important and should be our every day's priority. Nice to hear, that you have the same mindset. I'm always happy to meet brothers and sisters in Christ.
The Lord's blessings to you too!
@@TheLandArksProject thank you sir. Yes it is a pleasure that we have the opportunity to converse like this about our Maker. Be blessed and have a wonderful and exciting New Year to u and your family. I can see your year is full of excitement. Glad that you sharing it with us all👏👌
The music that you put in your video is so2 cool
Thanks 😊
You may find it easier to put some dry sand in between the rocks on the outwards facing edge. This means less time removing cement, and you can add in mortar pointing after
That you for the hint. I will think about it. I'm not sure yet if I correctly understood what you're suggesting.
@@TheLandArksProject my apologies. As you build the walls up, add a small amount of dry sand around the rocks, in the area that will be facing out (or visible when the wall is finished). This stops cement running over the front of the stones, but you will be able to cement behind this to hold the stones in place. It means that at the end, when you remove the forms, you just hose away the sand. Rather than trying to scrub and chip away the cement.
@@ML6103 Thank you for clarification! Interesting idea. That way you would also escape the need to remove the forms at the right time - cement not too soft, not too hard - that would be a big plus. Thanks for that input!
@@TheLandArksProject you're welcome. Love your videos and thanks for the content.
@@ML6103 If he uses a dry mix, one that you can form a ball in your hand that should not be a problem if you place your mortar slightly back from the face of the stone and go back and point after the fact.
It's all looking pretty but you aren't using steel rebars in your foundation - will it hold the weight of the building and not collapse?
It will not collaps, the ancient romans also were building their houses without steel rebars and they are still around.
@ Pray GOD WILL GIVE YOU A MONEY 💰, A CABIN IN THE WOODS , BY A LAKE ✝️. In Jesus Christ holy name amen 🙏. See you in heaven darling
My first visit und VLOG from USA. MICHIGAN 🀄🀄🀄🛐🛐🛐✝️🛐✝️✝️🛐🀄🀄🛐🛐. Danke und LIEBE. CHOW
Danke!
Lot of hard work on the stonewall. Bet you felt like you were in a prison. 😅
😁 it was okay. In fact, i've never been to prison, so I don't know what work there would be like... But maybe you know? 😋
Where is part 2 please post it?? Thanks
Here it is
ua-cam.com/video/y2Mao6fLq8U/v-deo.html
See UNDERGROUND HOUSES AND BAMBOO HOUSES. YOU CAN BUILD A FREE HOUSE IN THE WOODS ✝️🇺🇸
Very well done. Enjoyable video. JUST PLEASE PUT ON SOME SOLID SHOES!
Uhm ... you're probably right with this ...
Mistrzu! Ładnie wyszła ściana z kamienia. Można wiedzieć, co dodawałeś do zaprawy w 5:18 minucie filmu?
It's cooked starch mixed with a liquefier (lignin sulfonate salts)
a tip, next time use the steel brush without using water to clean the stones it comes out better.
Thanks for that tip. I don't like that grey cement film on the stone surface, that's why I washed it away. But maybe it looks better your way. You have an example where someone did it that way?
@@TheLandArksProject I did it like this when I worked in construction. Do the masonry then let the concrete dry a little, without letting it harden, then take a steel brush and start cleaning without water.
@@roysierra84 I will give this a try when I have another project. Thank you!
I said no water just with the steel brush to clean the stone. But what do you understand?
@@roysierra84 Obviously not the word "dry water". Go back and read what you wrote. He is using a stiff brush which is going to create paste which needs to be cleaned off which is why you would need a slow stream of water.
Look into slip forming the stone walls. It allows you to see what you are doing to get a better idea of what the joints are going to look like. Hope you didn't use portland for the mortar mix. It is too hard. I put just enough water in the mix so I could form a ball in my hand. Yours is too wet. It is easier to go back in do pointing than to have to clean the excess mortar off so I kept the mortar back from the face of the stone somewhat before i set the stone. You should think about putting some horizontal rebar in the wall as you build it to keep it from cracking (temperature bars). Nothing better than stone work and you did a good job. A brick hammer would have made it easier to remove the excess mortar than a trowel.
Thanks for this comment. It helped me
Thank you for your comment, Gary.
(1) "Look into slip forming the stone walls. It allows you to see what you are doing to get a better idea of what the joints are going to look like.” >>> I don’t know if I correctly understand the process … you’re still using a form to hold your stones in place, don’t you? How can you then see your joints?
(2) “Hope you didn't use portland for the mortar mix. It is too hard.” >>> Yes, I used Portland cement. I know, some people say this can cause problems with the stones (with rather soft stones?).
(3) “It is easier to go back in do pointing than to have to clean the excess mortar off so I kept the mortar back from the face of the stone somewhat before i set the stone.” >>> I don’t understand what you mean …
@@TheLandArksProject he is suggesting you use less runny mortar so it doesn't run between the form and the stone. It will though leave gaps around the stone which you will come back and fill after you strip the forms. I don't really agree with this method, but it is how I am doing mine only because I can't get my mortar to fill all the gaps as it is. I don't want my mortar too runny so this is how it winds up anyway. Also I certainly use portland, and that is the only way I would do it. Type S is structural strength mortar, but churt and flint is extrodinarly hard, so that may help.
@@integr8er66 Thank you for clarification. Yes, with hard stones I wouldn't see a problem using Portland. Sandstone or so, to me appears like it is a rather soft stone ... here the shrinkage of the cement might cause problems. But I'm far away from being an expert on this.
Literally, “swell wood”. However, in construction, “sills”.
EDIT: 👍 Well done.
Nice, thank you. I like "swell wood", "swell" sounds so much like German, "Schwelle" 😁
@@TheLandArksProject Schwelle in English, is called a “threshold “, although I think that the threshold is ALSO a type of sill. 🤷
АВТОРУ 5 ЛАЙКОВ ЗА ПЕРЕВОД И ТЕХНОЛОГИЮ
Is that foundation safe?
Hola, te escribo desde peru. Me gustaria saber que materiales estas utilizando, por favor para proximos videos mencionar lo que te estoy solicitando.
Gracias; por tu respuesta y bendiciones.
What materials? It's cement and a sand-pebble mix. Added was a liquifier and cooked starch. Cooked starch was borrowed from an old Chinese method; they added rice water (containing cooked rice starch) to the lime mortar when they built the Chinese wall. This made the mortar stronger. Some Chinese research was made which seem to indicate that this also has a positive effect with cement ...
Tunjukkan buat atap pakai kayu bulat banyak banyak
It would be nice if you could add text with names of ingredients for base cement, time of drying etc....
Thanks for your comment and your advice.
In the following days, I will add some information in the description.
Greetings & Blessings to you!
جيد والله سبحان الله
Отлично!
Is your foundation without any metal constructions?
Almost without, yes. For the purpose of this project, it is ok. For bigger projects, I wouldn't recommend it.
In 2nd mortar mix you added a liquid polymer resin with a darker substance. Can you explain. Does this addition shorten setting/working time with the mortar? Very interesting
Oh, well, it's not that exciting as you think it is ... technically, you could call the white stuff a polymer, a biopolymer to be exact, namely corn starch (cooked in water). The brown liquid is a liquefier; it reduces the amount of water needed to give your concrete the consistency you want it to have and thereby it increases the strength of the concrete. The following graphic shows the relationship between the concrete's strength and the used water-cement ratio. What it tells you is, the more water you use, the weaker your concrete is.
www.researchgate.net/figure/Strength-to-water-cement-ratio-relationship-of-conventional-concrete-31_fig4_265251400
@@TheLandArksProject I used regular mason mortar mix with just a small bit of Portland mixed in with it. A acrylic polymer emulsion bonding agent will make the mix a bit more sticky and easier to handle. My wall is going on 50 years and not one crack. I also put only enough water in the mix that a ball of it would keep its form.
At 5:15 secs.. you pour a chemical? What is that and what's its purpose?
To say it right at the beginning: It’s not needed. It basically was intended to increase the strength of the concrete.
The brown component is a liquefier (lignin sulfonate salts. For quite a time standard. Today exist more efficient but also more expensive liquefiers, polycarboxylate ethers, PCE). I don’t know how familiar you are with this … Liquefier reduce the amount of water you need to make your concrete workable, and thereby your concrete gets harder. The more water you add to your concrete, the weaker it will be.
The white mass is cooked starch. It’s kind of an experiment … something like this has been used by the old Chinese (“sticky rice mortar”), but they made it with lime, not with Portland Cement. There it influenced the growth of the crystal structure of the Portlandite Ca(OH)2 - if I remember correctly; it made it denser and thereby increased the strength. Same was observed by a research group to happen with the crystal structure of the CSH-phases (calcium silicate hydrate) of the Portland cement.
But again, this is by far not necessary.
Greetings!
Wenn man ein ganzes haus mit diesen naturstein baut, hat man dann probleme mit der wärme-erzeugung im winter? Kann mir vorstellen dass dann heizen kaum was bringt aufgrund der kalten steine überall um einen herum
Ich habe noch nie in einem solchen Haus gelebt. Aber ich gehe davon aus, mit gewöhnlicher Heizung, wird das schwierig, es schön warm zu bekommen. Mit einem Holzofen, der tüchtig feuert, kann das schon anders aussehen. Man könnte natürlich in Betracht ziehen, die Wände auf der Innenseite zu dämmen. Das kann aber Probleme mit dem Taupunkt geben ...
Ich würde mir kein Haus ganz aus Naturstein bauen. Dafür mag ich Wärme zu sehr.
@@TheLandArksProject Pray your warm for winter 🥶
Have you ever seen underground houses or bamboo houses. It’s very interesting 🤨.
No rebar in the concrete means very limited strength?
I'm not sure if you are really interested in a response, but I will invest the time to give you one.
"No rebar in the concrete means very limited strength?" Yes and No. The question is: strength / resistance against >what
@@TheLandArksProject Temperature rebars will help with the expansion and contraction in the wall more than anything else and help the prevent cracking. They perform the same function as ladder reinforcing in concrete block walls.
Trabalho bonito.
Obrigado!
I think the word you were trying to translate is sill plate.
🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳👍👍👍👍👍
2:58 that's a healthy stream.
Good job been done but very slow it takes you 10 years to build a house I think....from UK.
*laugh*, yes, probably. If I had to use such small stones again, I would use another technique, for sure. It was the first time I did sth like this and I had to somehow come along with what I had at hand.
Greetings from Germany!
Hello, how much did it cost you? Just curious. Thank you.
The costs for the foundation were about 100-150 Euro (20 Euro the stones; the rest for cement, lime and liquefier).
@@TheLandArksProject wow
Beautiful 👍🤩
Фундамент уже лет 5 делают похоже!!!
Schwellholzer is called the "Sill Plate" in English.
Perfect! Thank you very much. For the next videos, you're invited to help with the English equivalents as well ;-)
👍🏡👏
Tu n'as pas choisi la technique la plus simple pour faire ta fondation en pierre . Bon courrage.
Je n'avais que des pierres petites et parfois très plates (~ 4 cm). Je devais trouver un moyen de traiter ces pierres. C'est comme ça que ça a fonctionné pour moi ;-)
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Did you put grease on the cement?
What is grease?
@@TheLandArksProject At 5:17, you add something with a saucepan.
Is it fat (bait)?
What do you add to the mix?
@@fabiosanchez9572 No, it's cooked corn starch
@@TheLandArksProject ahhhhhh.. ok, thanks
@@fabiosanchez9572 You're welcome.
Please tell these colourfull stone names.?
I don't know the names ...
Simple river pebbles, they're always a natural mixture from different rock kinds. Flints, Lime stones, Basalt, Granite .... you name it.
I SUBSCRIBED I PRAY FOR IT TO BE A EASY BUILD ✝️amen. DONT YOU WISH YOU COULD GO HELP INSTEAD OF SITTING HERE WATCHING 🧐. I would paint the rocks with clear gloss 🥰. Perfect 👍
In fact, I am thinking about treating them with some hardening vegetable oil. It makes the stones more shiny. :-)
@@TheLandArksProject Yes I have stones in front of my house and used , olive 🫒 oil. I just loved every minute of this video. Makes me want to build a house. I’d build a big Christmas cabin 😍. I’m glad you wrote me back sir. I hope you build a nice fireplace in your living room. A double sides fireplace. So your bedroom has one. I like watching. BABOO houses. Mud stove. Mud fireplace. It’s free that’s the best part. You don’t have to bye anything to build a house 🏠 I can’t wait to see it when it’s done , and hope we get to see the inside. Im learning how to make furniture with the wood crates. You can make it for free. THE BEST THINGS IN LIFE ARE ABSOLUTELY FREE ✝️. Take care you sweet beautiful smart Man U. I’ll watch part 2 now. , may God give his protection to you , and enough energy to build. Winter is here. Keep warm ,,and cover your head see you soon darling
Was ist das weiße Zeug aus dem Topf bei Min. ca 5:40???
gekochte Stärke
other parts
02: the wooden structure ... ua-cam.com/video/y2Mao6fLq8U/v-deo.html
03A: the roof, part A ... ua-cam.com/video/S1DwnN2k6gY/v-deo.html
03B: the roof, part B ... ua-cam.com/video/Jooz0XbM9r4/v-deo.html
nice ever think about putting in an ondol for reserve heat? before the floors are pour or the thresh holds installed it is the perfect time....
they are simple technology invented 7000 years ago for heating the floors with sideways flueing and in the 1800s they put a heat eexchanger directly above and gravityfed heat into the structures they called them croation furnaces hear in the usa
I'm hearing about this for the very first time. I think I won't apply this technique in that project. But basically, this shed is just a try on finding a building method I want to use when building my own house. So, I will read into this technique and maybe then use it in my house.
In every case, thanks a lot for this information! I highly appreciate such additional information!
Greetings & Blessings
@@TheLandArksProject your welcome
cool
Thank you!
Bitte schreiben Sie was für Stoff oder Materialen Sie hinzufügen. Ein kürzes Text auf Bildschirm ist genüg. Danke
Beton: 1 Volumenteil Zement, 4 Volumenteile Kies (in Deutschland eine Mischung aus Sand und kleinen Steinchen, üblicherweise kleiner als 16mm). Die braune Flüssigkeit ist ein Betonverflüssiger, damit man weniger Wasser benötigt. Das weiße ist gekochte Stärke.
👍👍👍👍👍
👍🏼
Schwellenholz = sill
Thanks 🙂