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In search of the best cartridge HEADSHELL
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- Опубліковано 15 сер 2024
- In this video we explore a few models of headshells, discussing the best typologies, features and tips to follow to achieve optimum results in your turntable hi-fi reproduction
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Music: "Daily Beetle" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
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HEADSHELLS:
Audiotechnica:
(US): amzn.to/2RSuXWb or amzn.to/2DCU6Bl
(UK): amzn.to/2zaqYgR or amzn.to/2ROtFLY
(IT): amzn.to/2RV3jbg or amzn.to/2QDpguV
Ortofon:
(US): www.amazon.com... headshell&index=aps&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=ur2&linkId=d1ac7f9cab22d842f46ff2171cd6a8e4
(UK): www.amazon.co.... headshell&index=aps&camp=1634&creative=6738&linkCode=ur2&linkId=cb02a42dec2c1b8461ef22812748591f
(IT): www.amazon.it/... headshell&index=aps&camp=3414&creative=21718&linkCode=ur2&linkId=6225a67eef3e690921f50dbd0cff067f
Audiosilente:
www.audiosilent...
Orsonic (vintage)
ADS (vintage)
Clearaudio (not tested, similar to Orsonic):
www.analogshop...
Acoustical Systems (not tested, does seem the best out there):
www.arche-heads...
Nasotech (new concept! Not tested)
www.highendcity...
Jelco:
(US): www.amazon.com... headshell&index=aps&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=ur2&linkId=dacb13b8c0b350be4be5514e7445eb5f
(UK): www.amazon.co.... headshell&index=aps&camp=1634&creative=6738&linkCode=ur2&linkId=63f979e0f4df3b48d5194fb63b2ad9f3
(IT): NA
Oyaide (not tested):
(US): www.amazon.com... headshell&index=aps&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=ur2&linkId=f209f379c3b268db58480764f828245e
(UK): www.amazon.co.... headshell&index=aps&camp=1634&creative=6738&linkCode=ur2&linkId=aaaa724fbc6dc83d0058b94904cd6b9c
(IT): NA
I'm italian and I don't speak and understand English very good , but with your clear and quality linguage i understand ....it's just fantastic for me 😊 thanks gay...
Forse perchè sono italiano anche io!
@@anadialog a be se è vero è una cosa che non avevo considerato credimi, non ho per niente percepito un accento italiano nel tuo modo di esprimerti però capivo quasi tutto e mi sono detto che non è mai troppo tardi per imparare una nuova lingua, invece è tutto merito tuo, pazienza, dovrò continuare a studiare l'inglese.... però è una storia divertente e simpatica !! , complimenti, sei un gran bravo divulgatore anche in lingua inglese......con una mimica e gestualità da italiano vero, come cantava toto Cutugno...
Grazie! Sono in realtà 50% USA ma nato e cresciuto in Italia.
The 2nd headshell you showed is a Jelco HS-25, which is a great headshell but a bit heavy in combination with certain carts and certain tonearms. I had to add a weight to the end of my SL1200’s tonearm to set it up correctly. The sonic benefits seem well worth it to me though.
Thank you so much for your videos, i enjoy them very much and learn a lot after returning to vinyl after 30 years. All the best.
It is worth noting genuine technics headshells are usually lighter than the reproductions available now, at least by a gram or two - but getting very hard to find for a decent price
I read about that too, somewhere. Thankfully I have two.
The Analogis HS15 is a pretty good low budget light weight headshell. Its commonly referred to as the Pickering design because many of them were sold under the Pickering brand. The only problem is that, although I have used many of them, one European vendor's supply was inferior Chinese knockoffs with offset vertical alignment pins, and those pins are not adjustable.
The search is completed.
With the release of the Ceramic HS-AO2 headshell from Korf audio we see measurably vast improvements in rigidity, resonance, ringing etc - over the Orsonic which held the place for most non-resonant headshell beforehand.
I'm sure you all follow the Korf blog, and this isn't news to you, but it's very interesting.
It's a dual pin 13g headshell, moulded in one solid ceramic piece all the way down to the connector, for only 200€ featuring long mounting slits making larger overhang alignments eg; baerwald obtainable.
Goodbye Jelco HS-25
Nice!!! Thanks for sharing that
Most headshells only comes with a single lock-pin, at the 12-o'clock position.
I've found that headshells like the magnesium Jelco HS-25 with its two lock pin system is very advantageous.
On my Technics SL-1500C table, mounting the ortofon headshell with it's single lock pin, would result in azimuth changes (under magnification) depending on how firmly I tightened the tonearm unto the headshell.
With the dual pin Jelco, the fit were much more snug, and the azimuth dead stable.
I will never use a single-lock pin headshell again after these observations.
You will literally experience changes in your stylus relationship with the groove each single time you remove and reinstall the headshell, when using single-pin headshell.
I haven't tested with several tonearms, but this is something to keep in mind.
Indeed!
Thank you for this educational video. I have a one piece tonearm now and had a 2 piece tonearm with my older Technics 1210 turntable. I always wondered about the pros and cons of each tonearm? Anyway I look forward to your next video, thanks for sharing the knowledge.
You make make some really great videos man! Keep up the excellent work!
Thank you Hi-Fi haven!
Thanks for the great video. The bigger problem, for me, is to know where to focus my attention while listening to subtle changes in audio equipment. I had a felt mat and now I have a cork&ruber, not sure if that's much better, you know? As for cables, never saw a difference between anything I've ever used. My most concerning thoughts about changing the headshell are because what came with my horrid LP120 is with a material so bad that it literally disintegrates if I screw a bit little tighter.
I'd love some raw audios comparing the changes between those minor upgrades.
Keep up the great channel, cheers.
Dear Daniel,
Thank you for your nice comment, which actually struck me quite a lot. I get a lot of comments of hate, which just say that this is all snakeoil. Instead, your message has some disappointment but it is truly trying to understand what is going on. So I feel I want to answer you more in detail.
Actually, most of the suggestions that I propose in my videos should introduce substantial difference not subtle. Although, there are problems in defining what is substantial and subtle for me and for others. I can say that turntable mats fall under the subtle, but cables SURELY may introduce a substantial difference. This may not be evident, if you are listening to a bad recording, on a cheap audio set. When I say cheap, that ABSOLUTELY does not mean you need a high-end system. Please do not get me wrong. But some quality is needed to have good results because otherwise, you're just going to enhance the noise, the mistakes, the bad part of that cheap stereo. I used to have a very humble all-in-one Sony system when I was a kid. That was true garbage. As soon as I started to pass to a higher quality things started to change and got me hungry for improvements. Now, If I had changed cables on that Sony with a good pair of Nordost Odin, almost nothing would have changed because of the terrible initial part of the chain. Another issue, is trying to introduce higher quality cables which in the end are not so high quality. As you know, I quality does not necessarily mean expensive. If you feel like it, try to tell me more about your system and what changes you tried to introduce with all the necessary details.
Apart from all of this, a lot of you are asking some evident A/B comparisons and I have been trying to do that but there is a big problem: in most cases, you cannot pick up the signal of test A and then of test B directly from a component (meaning a analog to digital conversion) since a lot of that good sounds undergoes modifications during conversion. Moreover, a lot of improvements I suggest regards the overall effect on the sound, not the signal from a specific component, hence you need to hear the results from the speakers, in the ambience, and that is VERY hard to record, hence hear differences. In other words, the most evident changes are those witnessed in person in my listening room. Nevertheless, I will try to deliver some tests in the future but trust me, the conversion and recording processes kills most of the positive effects.
ana[dia]log thank you so much for you reply. Yeah, a bad system will be a bad system nevertheless. I have a LP120 turntable (with no mods for now and stock headshell) a Nagaoka MP110 and I love the clarity of the sound coming through the JBL LSR305 or Sennheiser HD598. It is kind of a budget setup but it really shines for me. I tried to set the VTA and listening to the chances in the sound, but nothing came to me... Even though I can hear up to 18khz and was using my favourite record in a studio monitors.
I won't say everything is snake oil because I'm not trained for that, same goes with a acoustic guitar: did you know how the vibratto should sound, you won't see ant difference. Therefore, I've seen some tests using a microfone setup in the sweet spot of the room and the tester uploading the raw file to some website. The file has to have the same dB in order to be fair and that's the best possible way of transmitting room acoustic and components.
As for the hate... Well, don't mind them. Keep doing what you love and with care that it won't matter.
Seems like a nice setup! Good, I am glad that you are evaluating item by item.
Be sure to check this on the 18khz topic: ua-cam.com/video/lGeh-PLySGE/v-deo.html
Have you tried a heavy rubber matt? They isolate very nicely
Excellent and informative video. Many thanks.
Another thing to consider with headshells is whether they affect the VTA. The tracking angle can be a problem when some headshells sit higher requiring a thicker mat or adjustable VTA
Paul
True!
I like the finger hook on the currently available Nagaoka headshells. I'm all about practicality, it has a rounded, pronounced hook that I can get my finger on easily in my dimly lit area.
I ended up getting an ADC LMG-1 since my old table struggled with the 2M Blue, I've since got an SL1200 MK5 and I actually prefer the look (and it is significantly lighter) then the genuine SL1200 Headshell from the MK5.
This music over is very strange, Interesting. I currently own a pro-ject debut carbon, no headshell :( Thank you for your vid!
Hello Hi-fi Guru-san. It is, I, again with another question. This time it is to do with the subject of cartridge-to-headshell installation. I am putting together a Nagoaka MP series catridge with an original Technics Headshell. I have swapped out the connectors with your recommendation of the Oyuaide silver connectors. When I align the cartridge on the headshell, I do not know whether it should be aligned perfectly on the head area of the headshell or a little forward; which will line up the holes and screws perfectly center OR, should both front-ends be flush with each other, sitting perfectly aligned in the front-end with no extension of the cartridge passed the front? I am finding these connectors difficult to slide onto the Nagoaka pins. I will need to use tweezers or better pliers. I am also expecting a calibration mat specific for my turn-table to adjust the calibration, was this a good idea that I got an expensive mat that caters to Technics TT? Or could I have used a cheaper more readily available ruler or mat (Huson Hi-fi sells these) for adjusting the azimuth and calibration?
In order to find the correct allignment of the cartrdige you need an allignment protractor and, more specifically for the Technics, the Baerwald. Check my dedicated video: ua-cam.com/video/GqWh41NT1Cc/v-deo.html
Liked this vid on headshell. I have a realistic lab 400 turntable in pristine condition. Original headshell with realistic cartridge and JICO 760-DEF diamond stylus . Also, a technics headshell with shure M44-7-H turntablist cartridge. Love them both 😊
Well done!!
Great video..I have the SL1210GR with the same technics cartridge as shown at the end of the video.I am currently using an 11 grams plus Jelco head shell. I am assuming from the video that something around 6 grams would be much better ?
Yes!
Which headshell would be an improvement a standard technics headshell? I have the sl1200gr with ortofon bronze. Im thinking about ortofon model lh-9000 Thank you. Great content 👌
The one showed at the end!
I am really enjoying your great videos. Keep up the good work
Thanks!!
Have you tried the Nasotec Swing Headshell? It would make for an interesting review.
A bit late at the party... sorry! I am about to buy a new cartridge, the VM 750 SH by Audio Technica for my Audio Technica AT-LP5 turntable. Should I use the same headshell or buy a new one? Which would you recommend?
What are your thoughts on the Nasotec Swing Headshell? I don't mean the cost vs what the product does, but the design and if you think it will perform as advertised.
I haven't tested it but everytime I try something similarly that changes the basic principles on how a cartridge and a tonearm are designed...it never turns out well! But I am willing to try...
@@anadialog I have my doubts too, that's why I asked. If you think it's a good idea for a video..... :)
Hi. I just purchased a Thorens TD124MkII and it came with an old yet in good shape ESL S2000 tonearm but no headshell. These tonearms have the old ESL type connector (similar to an EMT diamond shaped connector) and the pins in the tonearm appear to be pressed into place therefor not changeable. There seems to be very limited headshells available as I have searched ebay and numerous other sites. I have found one old vintage ESL headshell for the S1000 that is of the fixed position variety and a one new version with the slots however it is made out of wood. The vintage ESL headshell fits the unit stylistically but I am assuming will limit the cartridges I can use. The wood one does not look like a match and based on your video likely will dampen the sound more than I would like. Looking for any suggestions on where to find a headshell for this or if I should just be looking at replacing the tonearm altogether. Thanks.
The Orsonic looks like something coming out in 2025. The Nasotec looks beautiful. I use the Audio Technica headshell leads too, they are out of production now too :( :(
Darn it! :-(
hey, i've got a plastic headshell with my vintage turntable (currently only vocals are barely audible), should i get the AT95E headshell combo kit
Hi Tom, I am not sure this is a question of an affirmation. Taken that is the former case, I think you need to establish if that shell is good for your arm. If you haven't already check out this video which will help you in choosing the correct headshell (and other stuff, but this is your primary interest now): ua-cam.com/video/T428mIuw9IQ/v-deo.html
Great video. Must say that most of the quality headshells in current production are on the heavy side. It’s very difficult to find high quality low mass headshells.
Very True!
Sculpt lightness in it with a grinder. :^)
@@forwardsdrawkcab if your sculpting can remove mass and retain rigidity then you are onto a winner. I don’t think I could manage that.
Awesome vid.
I saw a pretty expensive one from Japan in carbon fiber, I wonder if it's worth it!
Oh and it is a Yamamoto!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge about this topic! What would you recommend to use with a Connoisseur BD1/BD2 turntable? Thanks
I just bought a bd1 with audio technica AT1005 tonearm. Trying work this out myself. I have ortofon Om10, Shure m44 and At95ex cartridges. What tonearm do you have?
Frankly, i find the SME headshell connection to the arm quite ambiguous as a concept.
The arm pulls the headshell on the little pin on top of the socket, and with the rubber ring the headshell tends to end up pointing slightly upwards.
They should have added a pin on the bottom of the socket to counter this.
I understand the principle of getting the weight of the headshell/cartridge etc - but I am a little dyslexic. SO Can I ask - I am buying a1200G soon and will put a AT 33 EV (6.9g) on it - is that suitable with the Technics headshell - or maybe an ortofon one (magnesium) with Azimuth (10g I think) - I felt seeing as you have the same deck you could suggest which would suit weight wise
Thanks
Geoff Chandler
What is amazing is that Technics created a tonearm of an ideal weight. It’s effective mass is perfectly in a middle of a proper compliance chart. Without extreme values like 25 or 8, any of currently manufactured cartridges will fit. In a worse case you could try a different headshell +-3..5 grams. Afair AT has 6g and a dynamic compliance of 12. A stock headshell is 7g, an effective mass of the tonearm is 12g. 25g crosses 12u compliance near a top margin but with a good reserve as of +5g
I worked in the high end Hi Fi business in the 1970's thought to the late 1980s. The whole arguments that surrounded cartridges and head shells was a very contentious issue. In some areas it went even further but I won't discuss that for now.
You had companies like SME in England producing low was arms catering for the ultra high compliance cartridges from companies like Sure, the V15 series most notably. At one time people wanted to track a record at weights as low as half a gram 0.50 In the case of some LPs this was not realistically achievable due to many factors. SME produced drilled head shells with lots of holes to lower the mass. When the desire for a heads hell that did not resonate was satisfied by companies like Nagaoka came out with magnesium head shells and a range of highly conductive wires made from either silver or oxygen free copper did the world change. IT went on a lot further of course with the introduction of MC or moving coil cartridges and higher mass tonearms.
Thanks for the video. It's fascinating to see where we are going now as technology moves on.
Just bought a Sanyo TP1020 tt came with a Grado cartridge. Haven’t been able to find much info on it. What stylus would fit this cartridge? You’re help is appreciated
How do you measure resonance frequency please, and what is the frequency you are looking for?
Right here: ua-cam.com/video/T428mIuw9IQ/v-deo.html
Obviously I'm a bit late to the party here, but I'm curious about the correlation between resonance frequency and headshell weight. So for example, if the currently experienced resonance frequency was a little too high, (and ignoring all other factors for now, of which I know there are many), would I theoretically be able to reduce the frequency of the resonance by mounting a heavier headshell, or even possibly adding a headshell weight? Similarly if the resonant frequency were a little low, could I potentially increase it by mounting a lighter shell? Or is it possibly even the opposite way around?
Yes, but it's a delicate equilibrium set by the cart. Here is a video I made on the topic: ua-cam.com/video/T428mIuw9IQ/v-deo.html
@@anadialog Thanks for the reply. I'll take a look.
Are the lengths of headshells universal in that they all fit most if not all types of tonearms and TT's? For example a direct drive TT with a S-shaped tonearm like a Technics SL1210 series. Would a cherry-wood headshell "fit" this tone arm (with neccessary adjustments of weight etc) versus the standard looking one (the first one you showed) which looks more elongated or longer in length. The purpose of which would be for home use, not looking to modify for DJ'ing more so about customization by applying like you said, "little tweaks" here n there, with the goal to elevate the system to a hi-fi contender.
Hi there, no there is not a universal specification though I believe there is an array of dimensions that cannot be surpassed or reduced. In any case, you must look at the locking part. If it fits your arm. The most common is the SME type.
@@anadialog Thank you. I will keep that in mind. No need to ask you another lengthy question. Just a thank you will do.
Really great video! I have a Yamamoto cherry wood headshell I bought off eBay a few years ago. I have it paired with a Grado Ref Platinum 1 and I really like the look of the wood headshell with the wood cartridge body. I hadn't noticed any dampening; but I did notice the headshell twists or twerks (if you aren't careful) throwing off the azimuth. Very annoying to say the least! Because of this, I don't think I'll get another cherry wood headshell and stick with metal. What are your thoughts of higher end vintage turntable headshells (like the Denon DP-60L)? Again, another great video and I'll be checking your other videos that are linked to this one soon. Thanks for putting these together! -Brad
Thank you again for your positive words! Another bad experience with good-looking wood headshells. You've indicated a TT model (Denon DP-60L). You should indicate, if known, the headshell model. You are probably talking about the standard headshell that came with it in the 1980's. In any case, I am not familiar with those models but I can tell you that a lot of people, as mentioned in the video, are going vintage. The headshells were better engineered and the materials were very high quality in most cases...not always though! So I am pretty sure that the Denon models were very good.
Thanks ana[dia]log! Yeah, the mentioned headshell for DP-60L is the standard Denon ships with TT. :-) Thanks again!
might should get someone who can make you a pretty cherry wood headshell with stabilized cherry wood. Stabilized wood is soaked in a stabilizing resin in a vacuum chamber to get the liquid down into the wood, to empregnate it as thoroughly as possible, with vacuum pump cycles to really get it in there. This stops the wood from absorbing moisture and expanding/shrinking like it does. Just wanted to give you some advice, if you like the look of a wood headshell but want it to be more stable.
What are some good p mount cartridges for those of us that own those turntable which is an older perfectly functioning.
AT311EP AudioTechnica is responsible for sending me down the vinyl rabbit hole. Instantly could tell a huge difference in sound quality on my old Technics sl B250 turntable that was part of a rack system. Then I purchased Technics sl 1200 MK5, sumiko headshell, ortofon 2m black cartridge, project tube box s phono preamp, cartridge alignment tool, digital scale for setting tracking, audioquest interconnects, milty zerostat anti static gun, carbon fiber anti static brush, cans of compressed air, record cleaning vacuum machine, record cleaning fluids, mobile Fidelity anti-static inner sleeves, album sleeves for protecting the album cover, onzow zerodust for keeping me stylus clean, bright LED light for vinyl inspection. And then I started learning about vinyl album quality. Became familiar with names such as Bernie grundman, Chris Bellman, Kevin gray, Steve Hoffman and album labels such as mobile Fidelity, acoustic sounds, ojc, Speakers Corner, analog production, rhino, Sony Legacy and others. Steve Hoffman is a great place to get information about how good the quality of a particular vinyl album is. Not all vinyl is created equal! Have fun on your vinyl Journey. Be sure that you are purchasing analog Source material that is properly mastered and pressed. A lot of for pressings out there, off center, warped, no f i l l s, and poor quality vinyl that is full of snap crackle and pop even after properly cleaning. Avoid album labels DOL, wax time, Scorpio, not now music, simply vinyl, vinyl lovers, Abraxas , and I'm sure there are many others.
I get the sound when a tap is done on the player body of the table when the record is playing . What could be the problem?
No problem, it's normal (at least in several turntables)! That is why it is paramount to reduce vibrations in turntables. The resonance of the tap follows the tonearm and the cartridge and you hear it through your speakers.
Hi, which headshell do yo recommend for the new technics sl1200GR? The original headshell included was made of plastic and I think there will be a better solution.
Thank you for your videos and sorry for my English.
It all depends from which cartridge you have and it's compliance
@@anadialog Thank you.
I have the Hana ML cartridge.
Regards
I can help but you have to do the work. Here you will understand what is your next goal :-): ua-cam.com/video/T428mIuw9IQ/v-deo.html
@@anadialog thanks a lot
I cannot find a headshell with azimuth adjustment, can someone recommend one? I have a Technics SL-1200 mk 2.
Most headshell have azimuth adjustment. Just unscrew the locking below. Even the original Technics has that...
Have you use laser beams to play recording
I haven't!
About leadwires, the ones you show (I think it's AT6101) are about 13$ plus 9$ shipping (CND) on Amazon.ca but they also have AT6108 at 65$ CND, do you know about them?
The AT6108 is OFC. The AT6101 OCC, the best!
@@anadialog What is the difference please, I don't know the meaning either, TY
@@anadialog And by the way, is it still a good mod to remove the preamp in the newer versions of my AT-LP120XUSB, I watched videos of people saying and showing it was best to take them out of the signal path, even when turned of (I use an external Musi Hall preamp) but since mine is 2020 (or 2021 perhaps) and they add that X in the model number, could it mean that mod is not necessary anymore? Thanks again
So you think the graphite cartridge and the wood cartridges (even though you don't own one) they deadens the sound a little bit, I was thinking about making a wooden cartage, I thought it might be better then a metal one. I have to look into this now Thanks nice video as well..
Thank you for your comment Paul. That is my experience with my TT. Things could easily change in a different setup (TT, cart & tonearm). No I do not have a direct experience with wood but everywhere I check most people are not satisfied with the results complaining issues similar to other damping materials...
What material you think is the best a head shells should be made from? I'm a Machinist Now you got me thinking!!
In the end I think metal headshells are the best...the weight is important for tonearm matching so always calculate that. I made a video on this topic. If you haven't seen it check it out: ua-cam.com/video/T428mIuw9IQ/v-deo.html. For example I had great results with magnesium!
Cool thank you I will watch it
The detachable head shell developed by SME in the 1960s was soon adopted by other tonearm designs and became known as the "universal mount" head shell. I think it is still used by Technics and many others. For purpose of reducing total tonearm mass, SME introduced a perforated aluminum head shell using the same connecting design. Later, to reduce mass still further, SME introduced a nondetachable head shell for the 3009 Series II (Improved) tonearm. Since the cartridge overhang for this tonearm is adjustable at the arm's rear pivot, the cartridge positioning slots were unnecessary and replaced by two round holes. I am currently using two SME 3009 Series II arms on two turntables. One has the detachable head shell, the other is the nondetachable model.
As I understand it, a low mass tonearm is apparently desirable for use with a moving magnet (MM) high compliance cartridge set at very low tracking pressures (typically 1 to 2 grams). A higher mass tonearm is supposedly desirable for use with a moving coil (MC) low compliance type cartridge, which, I assume, requires relatively higher tracking forces.
My question is: Does this mean that using a moving coil cartridge requiring higher tracking pressures will result in accelerated record wear and a resulting increase of inner groove distortion? Just curious.
Hi Bruce, there is no rule for mm and mc and related tonearm. It all dependa from the TOTAL mass and the cartridge compliance: check this video I made if you haven't already : ua-cam.com/video/T428mIuw9IQ/v-deo.html
Yes, in general terms the more the weight the more the wear out of the surface...especially after repeated playback if the same tracks.
Thank you .
Can I have the link to the replica headshell please ? I can’t find it
You mean of the Orsonic?
Good video, but distracted by you leaning back . . camera too-high?
I always do that...no idea why!
My Garrard 990B has a plastic headshell .she a slide headshell
is it possible to remove the 4 pin connector from the headshell?
In most cases, yes!
umm so I just need to use a pair of pliers and pull it out? thank you for replying :) really appreciate it. p.s. all this while I thought the 4 pin connector was super glued onto the headshell body.
It depends. In good quality headshells there is a screw, which allows you not only to remove the connector with the pins for any reason, but also adjust its correct position because several times the connector is NOT parallel to the platter, hence a wrong cartridge allignment...
hi again. thanks so much for yr reply once again. reason is I bought a gold headshell off ebay and it they sell it without the connector and leadwires and was considering to pull out the connector with pins from my other headshell (which looks like the connector is glued to the headsehll or maybe its Loctite) and transplant it onto the gold headshell. hmmmm
Sounds tricky...try to use a headshell with a screw, it is so much better...if you glue it not precesely parallel you will have problems with tracking and wrong stylus wear...
What about Nagaoka HEADSHELL?
Seems a great design but I never tried one.
@@anadialog Ι will, and let you know!
Which headshell are you using on the AT33 in the video?
That was a stock picture. It looks like a standard jelco...
fundamental
The Clearaudio shell seems awesome for an S-shaped arm using Stevenson alignment. It allows perfection in stylus to headshell tail distance, as well as cartridge alignment to headshell. I do not understand its azimuth capability. See: ua-cam.com/video/1ecots5MJR4/v-deo.html
Hi Charles, yes it is very good. It is based on the Orsonic design as mentioned in the video. It is just insanely expensive and it does not have a fingerlift (absurd). The azimuth is regulated by unscrewing a screw on the top of the body.
I think the tonearm lift is a separate piece which is attached under heads of cartridge mounting screws. One thing for sure, IT'S EXPENSIVE! With the azimuth adjustment you mentioned, seems like this concept would assure a perfect Stevenson solution with no doubts about it.
Some of us prefer fixed headshells
Great video, I've got an original Orsonic headshell and it's great. You might want to raise your camera up and angle it down a bit so the view isn't looking up your nose. Also you're putting the emphasis on the wrong syllable "RESonance", not "reSONance". Other than that those minor things great video, we need more audio videos by people who know what they're talking about and less crap like VinylEyezz.
🤣🤣🤣
Thank you! I am Italian after all so sometimes I get thinks wrong...thank you for your suggestions! P.S. where did you get an original Orsonic?
Hi just discovered your insightful video.
Would appreciate if you could point me to the Orsonic seller on eBay . Thanks
There are several. Just try to type orsonic and the model I am sure it will pop up.
@@anadialog Thanks , tried but without any success. If you have any luck please let me know thanks again
@@johnsnowlow1883 Here you go! www.ebay.it/itm/Orsonic-AV-101S-Anti-Vibration-Universal-Headshell-Japan/273692408997?hash=item3fb956bca5:g:aQ0AAOSwz2VamIDq
This guy can't keep his words straight and confused cartridge and headshell so many times that I had to stop halfway through the video.
Sorry about that. I've gotten a little better over time 😉
Hello!!!
To cause a resonance, you have to provide a power to the headshell and the arm.
How mach power gets moving needle? How much of this power lost and forwarded to the arm mechanic?
Fundamental is your stupidy.
I think you are lacking fundamentals here besides being rude. When playing certain frequencies all carts start to resonate. The ability here is to limit that as much as possible.
Now set the phone and go home and study before blathering around.
Get gold pins, everyone knows gold is better than silver.
Silver is always better, more conductive, but must be treated for corrosion, hence, I agree, gold is better because it is the best compromise!
I really was mocking him but 6-9 copper could be better than some silver. @@anadialog
Yes, gold is less conductive also than copper. But again, yiu must treat it...
the best headshell, is no headshell.
True, but if your tonearm has one...
Strange that your pronunciation accents keep on changing.
Because I am Italian!
Dude, it's resOHnance, not resAHnance.
Dude, I am Italian. I often mispronounce words. Take it or leave it! ;-)
English is not everyone’s primary language.
beardy contradicts himself constantly metal-plastic-metal, etc. zzzzzzzz