if not the best, certainly one of the greatest posts about tips on entrance level turntables for the beginner in vinyl experience. And, reinforcing the budget aspect on several videos in this channel, you are always motivating more people to discover the beauty of analog midia !!! Fantastic
Couldn't find this in the comments, so in case anyone is looking for where a specific tip is or just what the list of tips are, here ya go: 1. Don't go cheap @1:41 2. Go belt drive @3:47 3. Buy heavy @5:23 4. External preamp @6:16 5. Removable/adjustable cartridge @9:21 6. Adjustable tonearm @10:44 7. RCA outputs @15:00 8. Avoid mechanical and electrical nonsense @16:31 9. Check your speed @17:57
I have three turntables and they are all DD. One was made in 1977, the other in the early 80's and the third is a fairly new Audio Technica AT LP 120 USB. All three are dead quiet and have better wow and flutter specs than most of the modern belt drives until you get into serious money. Belt drives separate the motor from the platter because they HAVE TO. The DD motors are MUCH quieter and rumble is simply not an issue. Regarding the thump test on turntables. That only tells you how much the platter and arm are isolated from the base, not how well they are isolated from the room acoustics. If the base is well isolated from the room's acoustics (material, foot design, etc.), you can get a lot of thump, but feedback is not an issue. Most turntables are belt drive today because it's easier to work with. Anyone with a garage and some knowledge can build belt drive turntables. Direct drive takes a bit more involvement and electronics design. It takes "bigger players" to design and produce DD turntable drive. I've never had to replace a belt, or even think about it. And I can really press down on my records with the record cleaner while cleaning without even thinking about damaging a belt, etc.
@@elmeme88 the difference is that a belt drive has a high RPM motor that makes a lot of racket compared to a direct drive motor which spins extremely slowly. Back when I sold HiFi in the 70s and early 80s it was just a given that direct drives were quieter than belt drives. One of the advantages of belt drives it's that anybody can make one. You can get a motor from china, get a belt, and poof you have a belt drive turntable. To have a direct drive turntable you have to actually have a source that makes good direct drive motors. I have four turntables, three of which are direct drive. The fact that you can simply stop the platter or push it by hand while cleaning a record or any other stuff like that is ridiculously convenient. You don't realize how convenient it is until you try to do the same things with your belt drive turntable and realize you can't do it. Heartbreaking But then, when I had a motorcycle I made sure I went with shaft drive rather than built or chain. I just like direct drive simplicity, durability, and reliability. Two of my direct drives are from the mid-70s and early '80s and I've never had to repair anything. If they were belt drives and I parked them for a few years I'd have a belt that was glued to the platter. That happened with one of my old Bell drives. By the way, the so-called chugging that some people say direct drives do is something I've never experienced. Nobody ever talked about it back in the day either. I don't know where that rumor came from.
Antiskating is intended to compensate for the tonearm to drift inward toward the center of a rotating record and not outward as is stated. An important additional tonearm adjustment feature not mentioned is to be able to adjust for the optimal arm/cartridge over-hang relative to the center spindle. This is accomplished by adjusting the position of cartridge body in the arm headshell or by adjusting the position of the rear pivot bearing of the tonearm itself which accomplishes the same thing. An alignment protractor is needed to locate the stylus tip relative to the center spindle which is accomplished by either of these adjustments. A free alignment protractor can be downloaded from a number of websites. This adjustment is critical in minimizing the distortion heard from the innermost grooves of a record.
Hi Bruce, yes I got mixed up with the antiskating (I swutched the force with the effect). This was already pointed out in other comments. Your other consideration is more related to proper setting. For that I made this video: ua-cam.com/video/GqWh41NT1Cc/v-deo.html
Very useful video for convincing me not to get into vinyl audio :) Actually my son was interested, so this video enforces my views that it is a technology better left for the past and focus on streaming, CDs or digital formats.
I pick up most my gear from thrift shops and craigslist. Found a Technics SL-D2 for $30 A lot of work but if your patient and know what your looking for you can get some great deals. Expect that 60's-70's gear will need to be serviced or a tune up at some point so find a good local repair shop.
While I have had many years of good, faithful service from a Pioneer PL-112D belt drive manual turntable I took a chance at a thrift store and bought a Technics SL-D1 strictly for the cartridge that was mounted on the tone arm. When I got it home and cleaned the turntable I found I had bought a real gem for under $30.00! It is a direct drive manual in near mint condition, it was just very dirty. It performs flawlessly. My point is, NEVER turn down a chance to buy a used turntable from a thrift store. You may get a surprise at what you have. Yes, there are tons of el cheapo Crosleys and the like but if the platter is made of heavy die cast metal and not the Chinesium plastic, chances are the rest of it will be good as well. The only thing I bought for the Technics was a new dust cover to replace the badly scratched and broken original one. I see many, many years of good service ahead with this turntable. And yes, the Pioneer is still in use as well.
Very well done "first TT" talk, You are excellent at vulgarization. I personally went with an SL-D2. No, it doesn't have an ajustable VTA, but I can just choos my cartridges around that plus there's alittle bit of adjustment that can be made via shims or mat thickness. Otherwise it ticks all the boxes for me. Sounds great to my ear, pretty fast and fluid sound reproduction, super stable, I love it, I spend my money on a good MM cartridge instead.
Gerard Stroh!!! Anadialog!!! 4 Years ago I was not shopping for Turntables and I Went to the Local Record store in tracy California in the united states of America and anyway I Buy Vinyl Records All the time and I have 7000 Records and I Saw this Super Heavy Vintage Pioneer PL-600 Quartz Lock Direct Drive Turntable and It is Made out all Meatal and I got it for $150 Dollars and Now That same Turntable on Ebay Sells For over $900 !!! 30 years ago I saw A Vintage JVC Ql-Y5F Quartz Lock Turntable at A Goodwill Store for $50 Dollars and That Turntable is super Heavy Too!!! You Saw My Commit Before About My Audio System and My MC phono Cartridge on my Pioneer Turntable!!! I always Had Good Turntables and Stereo System When I was Growing up!!!! I Looking at A Pro-ject Vinyl Record Cleaning Machine!!! Good Video Anadialog!!!
I’ve been listening to records all my life. Have had different turntables and know what I’m doing. Still, I’m watching this video. Hehe. Great video mate.
I live in Indonesia where every turntable across the board is at least $100 higher than US UK and Europe. I got lucky by going to a store with a Pro-Ject DC on display and they sold me this display model for $100 off.
1. Decide what you want: manual, auto stop, or fully automatic. I find fully automatic to be so handy. Or at least auto stop, or auto return. I have a very expensive fully manual table (Thorens TD125), but I like my Pioneer PL560 100 times better. Picked up the Pioneer at a thrift store for $15.... I see nice ones selling around $500, or even more. PL560 is HEAVY for sure! So not all automatic turntables are crap. Lots of pretty good vintage amps and receivers with built in phone pre-amp. Some of the top models back in the day came with phono pre-amps. Agree, removable head is a must.
2 quick, simple and effective ways to improve almost any turntable. Attach a shelf that is large enough to hold your turntable onto a wall, ideally a supporting wall, don`t skimp on length of screws and thickness of brackets, go heavy duty. Secondly, isolate your turntable with small steel cones that Hi Fi shops sell. The result is a cleaner, clearer, fuller sound. I was lucky enough to pick up a Linn LP12 on Ebay and it sounded lovely but went up quite dramatically in quality when mounted on the wall.
I have a Linn Basik from 25 years ago; it sits on 3 goofy rubber feet, which provide no dampening at all... I think everybody's advice is that it has to go on a shelf screwed to the wall :) I had hoped that someone modded a better stand/base for this TT, but can't seem to find anything.
😁🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣I like that one dude this is good for the new generation of Young teenage n young man they may like lp record from our era n they era is so cool n classic turntable is a classic look n it look dope n fresh 👍😎 good information bro
You have the same trouble speaking about a subject you're proficient in that I do. You're mind's working too quick lol. Thanks for the upload, I've just subscribed.
But as someone who does voice overs on the side I can tell he made an effort to practice his monolog. Otherwise he would be pausing and saying "um" a lot. Good speaker. Did a good job of informing
back in 1970 i bought my first system and i went as cheep as i could on the turntable. i was very disappointed. when i was able to upgrade i doubled the money i spent, which in dollars is so different than today, but the difference was great. it was worth it. i don't remember the exact amount but it was like $65-75 for the cheep one and $150-175 for the better one.
I have a 1970's Toshiba Sr 355 direct drive and man it's heavy and and it slays anything that's not a cheap go to 70's TT, guess it has to do with the empire 4000 xl cart.
Old Pioneer amps and receivers, the 70s till at least the mid 80s ones, have great phono preamps across the range. No need to spend on a seperate, expensive phono preamp if you have an amp or receiver of that brand and vintage, just plug in and enjoy!
@@johnholmes912 Low end? My 1979 SA-6088 is rock solid amp with both a sound stage and e phono pre you will not find in anything new for less than a 1000$
I believe that there's a degree of vinyl playback equipment overkill when I have researched buying a turntable. I have managed to prove, as you suggest in your video, that there's no need to pay huge sums of money to obtain a very competent record deck. However, I feel your opinion about it's better to buy a belt drive rather than direct drive turntable in the 200 to 400 currency dependent price range is misleading. For instance there's the highly regarded turntable by the hifi press, the Audio Technica AT-LP5 at approximately 350 euros, a direct drive deck. I use one myself with both Nagaoka mp110 & Audio Technica AT440MLB cartridges via a Rega Fono mk2 plus I've added a Funk firm achromat mat and I am extremely happy with its sound quality. Also, I purchased a Reloop RP7000 MK2, a Hanpin manufactured DJ turntable, weighing 11.5 kgs costing approximately 400 euros. The cartridge used is a Audio Technica VM95SH with a Shibata stylus via a Rega Fono MK3 plus a FF achromat the SL1200 version, which has demonstrated to be an extremely capable direct driven record deck. I believe it is a credible alternative to similarly priced belt driven Regas & Pro-jects record decks or even the far more expensive direct driven Technics SL1200GR. You didn't mention what support the turntable will be placed on which must be considered when buying a record deck. I believe a wall shelf is best, or if this is not possible, it should be placed on a solid & level surface as far from the speakers as possible. All in all your advice is valuable to the first time or the revisiting vinyl playback turntable buyer.
Your channel is just amazing, mate... And I know that this is a kind of old video but a new one for me... Since I'm a kind of newbie in vinyl (not in audio, because I'm audio enthusiast since young, I'm sound engineer at studio as second profession) but for vinyl playing, I'm a kind of newbie... What's your opinion over the Thorens TD147... Which cartridge you suggest for it... (Mainly for jazz listening)
DD vs Belt drive. Many prefer belt drive TTs because the platter is de-coupled from the motor and base. This cuts down on rumble (motor noise, usually not a problem) and feedback (from the speakers, a bigger problem especially if you play your music loud) . Most expensive TT's use belt drive to isolate the platter from the motor and base. Really good turntables have good isolation. A good test of this is to thump on the turntable lid or base with the stylus in a record groove (but not spinning). If you hear the thump through the speakers, then isolation isn't good and feedback from your speakers will colour your music. On a really good turntable, you will not hear the thump. Good isolation is always better since it cuts down on resonances but if you only listen through headphones it is less important. Often the worst part of turntable for feedback is the lid and many recommended the lid be removed from the turntable before playing a record. Many very expensive turntables do not come with lids or have removeable lids for this reason. In the old days there were some who argued that belt-drive with a heavy platter had better speed consistency since by design DD motors "pulse" power to maintain speed while the natural elasticity of a belt would smooth out the speed variation. In my experience there was no audible difference unless the belt is old and then sometimes they may slip. It can be difficult to find a replacement belt. This would be an argument in favor of a DD turntable.
Although what is said about belt drives advantages over direct drives are true, there is an advantage with dd turntables over bd ones. They tend to have better speed stability which results in better pitch control and no slowing down under transient load. I now use direct drive turntables, not because I don't appreciate a good bd tt but because I have found the better designed ( dare I say Hanpin ) ones are excellent performers for the money. I previously used a modified Project RPM 5.1 belt drive.
"DD turntable with ( pitch-control) big advantage ..excellent for 78rpm ..some of these were cut to the speed of ..believe it or not up to 96rpm ..we're talking back-in-day 1900's onwards ragtime 💜 etc! .. having pitch-control well needed here to spin at the right pace for sound reproduction playback!! .."Oh very heavy wear on the needle at those speeds .. I would use M.C. or higher end M.M best I've found for the job Ortophon Concorde recommended here but that's for me .may not be for other audio-files out there in A.V. landscape .. del..
Cool video I’m well past the beginner stage but I always like to see actual good advice being handed out, there’s so many self titled experts on UA-cam dishing out bad advice. I’ve always loved Rega decks. I’ve had a couple of Pro-Ject models (a Debut and an Expression) and whilst they sounded fine for the money, they did start to fall apart after a few years, their quality standards seem better these days though. Rega’s build quality and after sales care is second to none factor the money. I have an RP1/Elys in my sitting/dining room and a P5 with the Neo PSU and an Ortofon 2M Black in my main listening room. I’ll put the P5 in my secondary system at some point as I’m looking at either an RP10 or an LP12. PS, just a point to note, anti skate adds some outwards bias to the arm to counteract the tendency for the arm to skate inwards.
Hi there, thank you! I really appreciate your comnent. Yes, I got mixed up on the anti-skating with the effect of the couterweight, sorry. This obviouly came out on several comments.
sheikhyaboooty Agreed, I have an almost all Linn active system... but with an upper tier Rega deck. I’ve had an LP12 n the past but then I had a family and moved it on, my only issues with the LP12 was the urge to keep upgrading parts. I’ll get another one eventually but I’ll probably go straight in at Akurate level, preferably a good ex dem/used one because an Akurate spec LP12 is around £7k new! With regards to Rega decks, they’re very well made for the money, basic but well engineered and any of them will last a lifetime if not neglected.
@@Si1983h Hehehehe, I know exactly what you mean regarding upgrades. I was recently looking at a new cartridge and tone arm...cartridge was £600 and the arm, a bargain at £1400. I`m thinking I need to stop window shopping.
I Love a lot of the turn tables you mentioned But I just don't like that they dont come with the quick Connect cartridge I forget exactly what its called You can unscrew one cartridge and put on another one ,I have many original records I have had from the 60s 70s Some very good to new condition but some are in good and I like to change out my stylus/ Cartridge depending on the records condition so I do not ruin my expensive cartridge/ stylus Great video thanks for the Info
As I said before. The DUAL 1264, ULM tone arm is the best of the best..850.00, 1982. Still have it and works perfect with Ortophon ULM 35 cartridge (stylis new-45.00) all CDN Currency. Can literally gently lift it while tracking an LP..without any noticiple sound difference or record destroying effect. That's the DUAL 1264.
I have a rega p1 and it kind of represents a pro-ject essential 2, however the first thing to do to it in my opinion is to change the cartridge as the stock carbon has some sibilance issuses, im running a at95e with it but im still deciding on a dedicated magnetic cartridge, either a ortofon 2m red or a grado black.
I want an automatic turntable. I don’t what to have to babysit the machine for when the record comes to the end. An auto table can be programed to repeat also. These features enhance the experience n my opinion.
If you are going to go low end, go Technics or AudioTechnica, their turntables have strobe speed check, and pitch adjust, so you can check the turntable is spinning at the right speed, and correct it when it doesn't. But then again the strobe isn't really good enough for that purpose. For the same money you can probably buy a better sounding turntable without these features but then you will have to trust the makers engineered their products well enough that the speed will be correct and consistent.
If you are considering getting an entry-level belt-driven model from Rega or Pro-Ject you MUST make sure that you're not susceptible to Wow & Flutter because these models often offer W&F up to 0.25% (in the case of Pro-Ject). And this can be audible with e.g. fast-transient piano music. The Fluance models are a tad better in that regard, as is the RP1 (which is still rated at 0.17% IIRC). Quartz-locked Direct Drive models are rock steady when it comes to W&F but can create noticeable motor rumble when they are not built correctly. But that shouldn't be an issue with models from 400€ and above. So in my opinion, what counts for cheap Direct Drive models also counts for cheap belt-driven ones. At the lower end of the price range, you will need to compromise. And a (truly well-acclaimed) Rega tonearm or a Pro-Ject carbon tonearm with low resonance and high precision won't do you any good if you can't enjoy music due to you being susceptible to W&F.
Omg this! Bought two rega RP1 at 60% off end of life and they went right back! Not sure I would have kept them even if they were free 😂 I have just ordered a P6 and I’m honestly concerned if it will be good enough to not bug me.
@@svenschwingel8632 I have a P3 and it’s not quite there.. guess that’s what playing music for 20 years will do to ya 😅 For me sustained notes are the worst, but I’m sure the P6 with the ref belt will be fine.
@@RigVader if you are REALLY susceptible towards this phenomenon, I think there's no way around a direct drive deck. With modern motor designs, the cogging of old is no longer an issue. I recommend giving the current Technics lineup a try. Maybe you'll find the SL-1500 to be a player you like
Im getting myself a german TT a reloop rp-1000 mk3 ltd chrome edition. Its a belt driven tt and has not intergrated phono preamp, just a straight out phono line and Gnd ofc. Its a used one with an at-95e on it but i already have in my possesion a spare cart from my father, a grado prestige blue 1!! Im getting a gift preamp from the seller, a behringer 440 budget phono for start and later im thinking of buying a schiit mani when i find one in the EU market.. WHAT do you think about my selections? TT and gift preamp for the price of 120euros ~140usd
Why one should avoid fully automatic turntables? Have a look at vintage Denon DP-47F or DP-52F, for instance: You just press the Start button and that is it! The sound quality is quite good … The tonearm automatically gets back to the armrest at the end of the record, or replays the record if you have also pressed the Repeat button … All you have to do is to enjoy the music!
Q: Tip #6: If I have my VTA set well, and I then play a 180mg record, will that throw off the VTA? Or should I adjust it each time I play a 180mg record?
Don't worry and enjoy your music! The change is there but very subtle and the cantilever will adjust and compensate. VTA is important but not that important IMO
Thank you for your videos!! I just bought my first turntable and ended up with a mint technics 1200 mk2 from 1981 for 500$ it looks like it hasn't even been used! I had to clean and lubricate the tone arm height adjustment but that's all. You helped guide me to real quality! would I be smart to pair it with a schiit modi and then run it into a 70's Marantz 2200 series receiver or with the old Marantz, is the schiit modi unnecessary?
Hi there! Glad the hear this. That is a great start, congrats! Perhaps you intended the Mani, the Modi is a DAC and you need a phono pre-amp. Yes, you can also simply use the Marantz in its phono in but it is mainly a receiver. If you still are thinking of what to purchase try going for an amplifier. In any case it's a great starting point. A dedicated phono pre-amp will almost always sound better that the phono stage included in your receiver. Enjoy!
Lol so the new at-lp120xusb is out with this updated model. They did away with the tonearm height adjustment to simplify the end user having to adjust it. Therefore it's set for the now discontinued at95E audio Technica cart that comes pre-installed. Lol
Fluance RT range seem to be very popular. They have a heavy plinth, an ok finish, a tonearm with adjustable weight and anti skating, servo controlled DC motor, very quiet. RT 84 and 85 have acrylic platters and ortofon 2m cartridge. Is there a much point spending more than that on a turntable?
Getting killer sound in the high-end realm seems to be this: Ortoforn black cart $500 table acrylic or other low inertia platter upgrade. Basically? $1300 more or less.
Hi ana[dia]log ! I appretiate your videos verry much! Thank you for your tips. I have a question about buying my second TT. My firt one was a cheap and mainly plastic. At first it worked, but after a wile it started to degrading. I have found a second hand Denon DP-47F for the budget that I have /200 Euros/. It goes against some of your tips /direct drive and automated arm/ however I read a lot of positive review of it. Do you think it is a good choise for casual listening? I'm not an audiophile and would appretiate the automatic features of the Denon. Cheers !!!
Hi Konstantin, if you are convinced to 'remain' a casual listener and automation is a must, then this is a veey nice tt for the price. I've checked around and it seems that is suffers a little bit from mishandling and perhaps just delicate components...make sure it is perfectly working!
Wow loved this video. So honest and informative for the higher end budget friendly. What would you suggest fro a budget of $350 limit US dollars? Also what about the same suggestion for a stand alone amp not within a receiver?
Wonderful video. I want to buy 2nd hand but I'm still hesitating between let's say Rega planar 3 (or something similar like Revolver or NAD) and something more classic such as Pioneer PL-12D. Any thoughts? I haven't bought any additional equipment since I wanted to choose a deck first (which will be my 1st deck). I'm planning to invest around £500-600, and hope that with smart buying on used market would give me some pleasure.
I like the Lenco 3355,but not now. A man in a hi Fi shop said having a CD Player with a amp from the same company works better than 2 different ones, your view please?
The example you showed of the cartridge that could not be removed, CAN BE(This was the ceramic Crosley example or equivalent). The shell cannot be removed. I would have shown the AT LP60 because the CARTRIDGE on the TT cannot be removed....easily.... Did you mean cartridge wear out? or STYLUS wear out??? I still believe the Fluance RT-81 is still the best bet for a starter turntable because of it ability for upgrading. It has a removable headshell which the one you show do not.
IMHO, no. Direct drive models are good only in very high quality models. Otherwise the way to go is belt driven. Check this vid for some new suggestions: ua-cam.com/video/KB3h4P95Zak/v-deo.html
Thank you for this sage advice. As a new recruit, and someone looking to buy a first TT, would you advocate for a new Project Debut Carbon, or a used Technics SL-1400 mk2? Both can be had for around $400. Is there another audiopile table you would suggest in the $300-$400 range? Thank you!!
N. Ignore pre-installed cartridges. This factor must not be considered when you choose a turntable. They are good to check whether is a device working or not. Start from AT LEAST AT740ML and similar. Purchase an MM cartridge if its price is at least $500. Hana ML/MH or AT ART9XI could be a good choice imho. N+1. Save on a turntable, invest into a cartridge and a phono preamp. N+2. Don’t purchase a turntable for less than $900-1500. They are fashion toys. Fluance, Pro-Ject, Rega, Teac, Audio-Technica, Dual, most of Thorenses... are just platforms with a spinning disk with wow/flutter/ rotation speed variance about 0.2%, SNR about 60dB, and weight about 5kg. A total c..p. N+3. Ignore models with a flat belt drive. Don’t be afraid of a direct drive. For that price they all are quiet (there are actually few drive models on a market only, and many manufacturers use them) N+4. Check out Technics SL1200 MK7, MoFi StudioDeck, Magnat MTT 990, E.A.T. Prelude. These are good for a beginning. Pro-Jects and Regas start from $2k. A really good staff costs more than $4k. And this is not an audiophile. This is about tech specs. N+5. Perform a total calculation. Some positions look interesting unless you realize you have to purchase a dust cover, an acrylic slip mat, a vibro isolation platform, etc. N+6. Pay attention on an effective mass of s tonearm. 8-15g is good, 15-20 is acceptable, if it’s more this will make some issues with a compatibility. Ignore manufacturers who hide specs (like Rega). There must be a reason to do that. N+7. Left some money for a disk cleaning device, brushes for disk and a cartridge, good RCA cable, a cabinet for disks, antistatic and protective sleeves. And of course create a profile on discogs ;)
Nice video, but even a lot of budget turntables have a line/phono switch under the platter. There are holes in the platter that allow you to access the switch. Example, the Optimus Lab 1100 has that feature, and there are many clone variants of this turntable. It's also not a bad entry level turntable that can be bought very cheaply. I bought mine 2nd hand for $40. It uses an Audio Technica ATN3600 stylus, and the tonearm is already perfectly tracking force and anti-skate adjusted from the factory. Great as a backup turntable if you then get something more expensive - *if* - you think you still need to. My point is, you don't need to be a "cork-sniffer" when it comes to turntables. To be honest, I think spending USD$300+ on a turntable is just too excessive. There are heaps of vintage turntables out there on the 2nd hand market that will get you better bang for the buck, and most of the time, you just need a new belt, about $5, and a lube on the spindle, and maybe a new cartridge like a Audio Technica ATVM95E.
Two things. When you're buying a new TT, see what your electronics store has to offer, go on the internet and see what other people say. Then make your decision. Make sure that the store has a return policy. I bought mine at Best Buy. If you're not satisfied, take it back. There were two items from BB which I did not like. I returned them. No problem. As far as used audio equipment goes, unless your Techmoan or VWestlife, I would be hesitant. You have to be a guy that loves to tinker, especially on electronics (which I am not). I don't think that many of used electronics dealers have a return policy. I bought a used cassette deck a few months ago. The man was very nice and he said it was eating tapes. He gave me $20.00 off and no return policy. As it was only $70.00, I figured why not. I couldn't fix it. 😕 I bought it "as is." Just a few pointers on my experiences. Stay safe.
I wish we had that policy in Europe! Here once it's yours it's yours! Only if you buy something online you can send it back. In any case send the deck to a lab. They will repair it for cheap and then you can enjoy it...or sell it a much higher price!
@@anadialog The electronics repair place in my town closed about a year and a half ago. To pack it up, postage charges (it was really heavy) and repair charges, I figured it was not worth it. So, I got a new tape deck with warranty.
Very useful video! I own a 60s Grundig console which I intend to restore. At the moment, it has a late 80s turntable inserted with a broken belt. I'm thinking of finding an original turntable that was in this console and make it work again. Do you think these old models ruin the vinyl as time goes by? Would you suggest such a task, or it's better to go for a completely new turntable?
@@anadialog oh God certainly not selling it 🤣 it's sentimental value. Was bought by my grandparents in 1966 and through it I got to know many of my favourite artists in my grandparents' and parents' vinyls.
Keep it simple. Things I have found. It appears all current high end players are belt drive., heavy, mass the plater is a fly wheel it has better stability. A standard type tone arm not parallel tracking .
I could be crazy but whether S or straight, as long as the cart is aligned, both will track the same as it is a linear progression across the plate. Unless the tone arm can alter its shape while in motion, the effects are the same. Thus the linear tables.
Straight or S shaped makes no difference apart from aesthetics. What is important is the arc angle of the arm, and the angle of the cart on the head shell. The slots in the head shell allow for the distance from the tonearm pivot point, but also allow for the mounting angle on the head shell I agree though, the S shaped looks great, but functionality wise, no difference..
@@tomb8430 Sorry for you all but I have learned that shorter straight ton-arms are worse than long S ton-arms because of the edge of the diamond-needel. This one turns more over itself with short ton-arms than with long ton-arms. It is due to the shortness of the arm which cause a bigger and rude move to the faces of the needle at its edge. And so they teach me. For rond or elliptical diamonds, it might be not so important but for shibata, microline or special microline needles, it might be very important.
@@alainmoret5887 I understand that a longer tonearm, regardless of shape is better because the arc is not so tight because of the bigger radius, but S or straight, at the end of the day, the stylus will be in the same linear position. On a straight tonearm, if the cartridge is angled, it will be no different to an S shaped arm. From what I can see with the calibration mats, the idea is to set the cartridge, and by extension, the cantilever so that it is perpendicular as much as possible to the spindle. And when you think about this, that makes perfect sense. If the arm is longer, the head will not "twist" as much when it is rotating around it's axis. People need to remember, there are insanely hight end straight tone armed decks out there. They would not opt for that design if it were inferior. S-Shaped arms look technical. They look sexy. They have something that draws the eye. But from a technical, practical, and functionality standpoint, there is no difference - and I need to qualify again - *if* the cartridge is adjustable (moved forward and backward, and rotated) on the head shell.
@@tomb8430 Thank you, You did understand my point of vue correctly. I was scarred not to have the vocabularies to explain, it was so technical, I had problem to choose words. But, well done. Ok, I understand you well. What I can see on the market is that S tonearm turntables are 99% of the time for DJ's (Technics) and straight tonearm turntables for privacy at home or high quality sound turnetables (Pro-ject, etc.). Maybe because DJ's have to find tonearm in the dark or so quick that long arm is better for them.
Great video 👍. Learned a lot! What do you think of the Fluance rt82-85? It has vertical adjustment but the effective mass is 28.2g, Is that a blocker? Thanks, I enjoy your videos, keep them coming!
Sorry, I think I missed this comment. I am not a big fan of fluance. I prefer more the companies that have turntable experience since the last century. Not always, there are exceptions.i think that in a mid-life segment its better to invest in a good vintage turntable. They are very good, at a fraction of the price and...they are stylish!
Vintage is a great way to get high quality with a low budget. Better if serviced or bring your new Vintage purchase for a checkup (not as expensive as you would think).
@@anadialog I'm afraid that eventually the price will get higher due to various repairs and so on, and that it will end up more expensive than the new one in the end.
VTA is there to be able to swap cartridges and adjust the SRA. That the arm has to be parallel to the record is not correct I am affraid. It might have been a starting point one day, but it is the correct SRA you're after adjusting the VTA.
If everything is correctly set, the tonearm must be parallel to tye platter, if not you need to adjust the cartridge and headshell if you have one. At that point you should obtain the correct Vertical Tracking Angle of your stylus, as shown in the video. SRA is the same, just a different measuring point!
@@anadialog Maybe this link will clear things a bit up, at about 40 min in Fremer explains why it is a starting point but not a dogma. ua-cam.com/video/dCJ7nAdITdk/v-deo.html
These are great tips. I don't think they are for the true beginner on a budget you describe at the beginning of the video. I think that person would be fine with a descent less expensive table with an internal phono pre, and some descent powered bookshelf speakers / Sub. The trick is knowing that there are some 100$ turntables that will work well and some that are utter garbage. It's very frustrating when shops openly push the garbage. It hurts them in the end. This video to me would be for someone starting to dip their toe into better sound. You can have a pleasant experience that opens the door for you for less and start buying records, then save for better parts. If you do want to spend a little more money up front this video rocks.
Hey, ANA[DIA]LOG, I was wondering if I could get your opinion on the Pro-Ject Debut Recordmaster. It's on sale right now for €300. And since you recommend two other Pro-ject tts in this video, another Debut even, and also because there aren't a lot of reviews on the Recordmaster variant, can you tell me if you would recommend this one as well, given I'm a starter to vinyl?
I have a Rega RP1, rewired, Audio Technica AT-150MLX cartridge, Musical Fidelity preamp, acrylic platter, gold plated RCA cable connector, etc. You will not get that combination because most of it is after market (platter, cartridge, preamp, record weight). Don't get mad that said all that because it is a lead in to my second system which has an Audio Technica AT-LP3WH (white) with an acrylic platter mat. ($270 for both). That is never enough if you really wish to get the best from your records. A Vincent PHO-8 preamp is $250, and there are numbers of cartridges that are very good under $100 (Ortofon 2M-Red, Vessel - A3SE (the best $99 at LP Gear). Firgure on $500-600 to get what you need for a lifetime of enjoyment. Anything less and you won't stay with it. Note: The LP3 turntable is automatic with a screw off headshell. You will be extremely glad you have this design for trading up cartridges. Note2: Always make a mental note where the factory cartridge is located on the headshell. This will save hours or trial and error when you change the cartridge. No matter what brand the location of the tip never changes when you set it.
Hello! Greatings from Lithuania! Would like to hear your opinion about these turntables: Pro-ject Audio The Classic; Gold Note Valore 425 Lite; Music Hall mmf-5.3. Would be great full for any thoughts about them. Which one to choose?
I made a video on clamps, weight, stabilizers etc. : ua-cam.com/video/S6jeONQPWH4/v-deo.html The short answer IMO is no, but every turntable is a different story so it's worth experimenting.
For a low budget,going vintage is still more wise than buying new. And it doesnt matter if its a belt or a direct drive. New turntables in this class are simply to shitty in over all quality or have at least one major flaw - like a realy cheap motor - that will bite you in the butt after a while. Also they lack in ease of handling and comfort. Have in mind that the cartridge is beside the speakers and the listening room itself the most sound deciding component. So you are better of being clear about what cartridge you will use with your (new) turntable and then look for a turntables tonearm that fits the needs of the cartridge to function optimal. Some cartridges also have very specific requirements regarding load capacitance and/or impedance,which includes the phono input of your amplifier,avr or separate phonopreamp to the equation. If you dont have a phonoinput or separate phonopreamp that is also a additional cost factor. You see,its not that simple to choose correctly. It needs oversight as well as attention to detail to make the right decisions.
My personal experience buying new turntables such as the Audio Technica AT-LP5 and Reloop 7000Mk2 direct drives has been a positive one. The build quality of both decks is surprisingly high including the tonearms despite being sourced from the notorious Hanpin company. The Reloop is a beast weighing 11.5 kgs, which is very resistant to vibration, has a adjustable powerful direct drive motor, all metal plinth and generally built to take the punishing treatment it will receive in a dj/dance club environment. Plus with a good quality cartridge such as the Audio Technica VM95SH it sounds superb, right up there with the likes of the Rega Planar P3, Pro-ject RPM5 acrylic platter and even the Technics 1200GR. I advise anyone looking for a new turntable to check out the direct drive turntables as well as the belt driven Regas and Pro-jects.
Hi.. For people looking towards vintage TTs i do NOT recommend Bang & Olufsen ! I´ve had my RX-2 for about 29 years and am honestly still Very happy with it.. But, they discontinued their cartridge production ( an american company got the license now), so a `new`-refurbished top-of-the-line mmc1 cartridge is about $700 - $1000 ! ..and off course B&O can only fit B&O cart´s.. My 17 year old Original mmc1 still outplays Many other TTs with MC cart´s, but if it breaks, I´m screwed ! I´d go for Rega Anyday !!
ana[dia]log sure thing mate.. Whatever us ´old` analogists can do to help others enjoy the pleasure of vinyl as best as possible, we should feel obligated to do, right..? Thank You for well directed and informative vids :) Keep up the Great work
I've noticed that a lot of budget turntables under €300 that _could_ be on this list because they check every of the 9 points but one subpoint, which is the VTA - other than that, they meet every demand - which sucks
@@anadialog Oh. Well that's good to hear :D In that case, there's three tables I'm looking at. If you could help me, that'd be cool; if you can't, I completely get that, 'cause you must get these questions all the time. I have three tables I'm doubting between: - Reboot Turn 2 - Teac TN 280 - Denon DP 300-F All seem like good quality tables, I'm 99% sure they check all of the boxes in this video's list (except VTA of course), and I'm not sure which one to pick. Do you recommend any over the others and why?
I think it's better.to spend the same amount of money on a belt drive. Only high end models achieve low rumble with direct drives. In any case, according to your budget, the most important part is your cartridge, phono preamp and your tonearm in this sequence IMHO.
My personal feelings and a lot of "audio" geeks will disagree. I dislike belt drive turntables simply because you have to be 100% sure that the manufacturer will supply spare belts now and in 10 years time. When looking at older 1970's and 80's turntables you are taking a big chance on belts still being available. A direct drive is the way to go. It may have slightly more noise (to who I still don't know) but overall it will be more accurate on speed control and more reliable. Just look around at how many Technics SL1200 and 1700's etc are still around and they have a FANTASTIC reputation. Buying brand new, if it's long term make sure you manufacturer will be around in 10 years time ....
Very hard decision...if you like a touch of history and vintage Technics is the way to go although it really neds to be fully serviced because firect drives must be at top performarce to wirk well...chose the midern NAD for solid bekt performance and high quality damping materials + cartridge...maybe I would go NAD...
@@anadialog Thank you for your input! I think I will try to do both. Get the NAD first, and since my repair man is very slow I should have the funds for the Technics by the time it is done.
hello, I'm buying a used technics sl-qb35 for 90$ , do you think is a good deal? and I'm thinking to plug it to my Marshall stanmore bluetooth speaker with rca cable, any ideas?
If you want to keep the chain at a very low budget I can say yes but maybe at that point its just better to get an Ausiotechnica LP60. The Marshall is not a good solution because, leaving the quality aside (the whole spectrum of your music will not be reproduced plus some distortion in the lower frequencies at higher volumes) you are missing the stereo effect because the drivers are too close to each other.
ohh ok I need a old stereo as preamp then. so the technica Lp60 is better off than the technics sl-qb35 in quality? I see the technica lp60 is on sale brand new in different stores
Not necessarily better. It depends if the Technics (qd not qb) is in perfect condition, if it is, then it is more cool to have a vintage piece of gear. In terms of quality, as I always say, direct drive turntables are good only when they are high end quality, otherwise its better to go belt drive like the Audiotechnica. I must admit that the wow and flutter is better on the Technics, probably because the motor on the AT is pretty basic. So in the end considering the expense, I think the Technics will give you more fun and you will be able to sell it back more easily when you will decide to upgrade.
![ANA[DIA]LOG](http://yt3.ggpht.com/50CpmGNilS8aoMlarZVhI_GxRDoZdbj4ZgwCMZXg-Rq2PrEvCytlE6RVyLUrNY-rwE_sAlZ1Zw=s48-c-k-c0x00ffffff-no-rj)
I have Fluance tr81 and it's pretty good. I didn't feel comfortable going over $300. Thank you for the tips.
For my first and current turntable I went with the Audio Technica LP120XUSB. It's direct drive and I love it
I purchased the same TT in January. Less than $300.00. I agree. I love it. Stay safe.
if not the best, certainly one of the greatest posts about tips on entrance level turntables for the beginner in vinyl experience. And, reinforcing the budget aspect on several videos in this channel, you are always motivating more people to discover the beauty of analog midia !!! Fantastic
Thank you so much for your words Santos!
Couldn't find this in the comments, so in case anyone is looking for where a specific tip is or just what the list of tips are, here ya go:
1. Don't go cheap @1:41
2. Go belt drive @3:47
3. Buy heavy @5:23
4. External preamp @6:16
5. Removable/adjustable cartridge @9:21
6. Adjustable tonearm @10:44
7. RCA outputs @15:00
8. Avoid mechanical and electrical nonsense @16:31
9. Check your speed @17:57
Thanks 😊
What a great video full of info I had no idea about! Thanks so much.
A fantastic video for a total beginner (me). Thank you good Sir.
Thanks for the great video. I bought a used MH Ikura in mint condition and love it.
Great! Thank you Ariel!
I have three turntables and they are all DD. One was made in 1977, the other in the early 80's and the third is a fairly new Audio Technica AT LP 120 USB. All three are dead quiet and have better wow and flutter specs than most of the modern belt drives until you get into serious money. Belt drives separate the motor from the platter because they HAVE TO. The DD motors are MUCH quieter and rumble is simply not an issue.
Regarding the thump test on turntables. That only tells you how much the platter and arm are isolated from the base, not how well they are isolated from the room acoustics. If the base is well isolated from the room's acoustics (material, foot design, etc.), you can get a lot of thump, but feedback is not an issue.
Most turntables are belt drive today because it's easier to work with. Anyone with a garage and some knowledge can build belt drive turntables. Direct drive takes a bit more involvement and electronics design. It takes "bigger players" to design and produce DD turntable drive. I've never had to replace a belt, or even think about it. And I can really press down on my records with the record cleaner while cleaning without even thinking about damaging a belt, etc.
I thought belt drives were more quiet since the motor was not in "direct contact" with the platter.
@@elmeme88 the difference is that a belt drive has a high RPM motor that makes a lot of racket compared to a direct drive motor which spins extremely slowly. Back when I sold HiFi in the 70s and early 80s it was just a given that direct drives were quieter than belt drives.
One of the advantages of belt drives it's that anybody can make one. You can get a motor from china, get a belt, and poof you have a belt drive turntable. To have a direct drive turntable you have to actually have a source that makes good direct drive motors.
I have four turntables, three of which are direct drive. The fact that you can simply stop the platter or push it by hand while cleaning a record or any other stuff like that is ridiculously convenient. You don't realize how convenient it is until you try to do the same things with your belt drive turntable and realize you can't do it. Heartbreaking
But then, when I had a motorcycle I made sure I went with shaft drive rather than built or chain. I just like direct drive simplicity, durability, and reliability. Two of my direct drives are from the mid-70s and early '80s and I've never had to repair anything. If they were belt drives and I parked them for a few years I'd have a belt that was glued to the platter. That happened with one of my old Bell drives.
By the way, the so-called chugging that some people say direct drives do is something I've never experienced. Nobody ever talked about it back in the day either. I don't know where that rumor came from.
@@ReasonablySane Ohh I see, thank you for the clarification.
Antiskating is intended to compensate for the tonearm to drift inward toward the center of a rotating record and not outward as is stated.
An important additional tonearm adjustment feature not mentioned is to be able to adjust for the optimal arm/cartridge over-hang relative to the center spindle. This is accomplished by adjusting the position of cartridge body in the arm headshell or by adjusting the position of the rear pivot bearing of the tonearm itself which accomplishes the same thing. An alignment protractor is needed to locate the stylus tip relative to the center spindle which is accomplished by either of these adjustments. A free alignment protractor can be downloaded from a number of websites. This adjustment is critical in minimizing the distortion heard from the innermost grooves of a record.
Hi Bruce, yes I got mixed up with the antiskating (I swutched the force with the effect). This was already pointed out in other comments. Your other consideration is more related to proper setting. For that I made this video: ua-cam.com/video/GqWh41NT1Cc/v-deo.html
yes i noticed the error too big mistake !!!
Very useful video for convincing me not to get into vinyl audio :) Actually my son was interested, so this video enforces my views that it is a technology better left for the past and focus on streaming, CDs or digital formats.
Vinyl is a whole hobby unto itself. It's all about the process. If you just want music fast, cheap, and easy, then nothing can compare to streaming.
I pick up most my gear from thrift shops and craigslist. Found a Technics SL-D2 for $30
A lot of work but if your patient and know what your looking for you can get some great deals.
Expect that 60's-70's gear will need to be serviced or a tune up at some point so find a good local repair shop.
While I have had many years of good, faithful service from a Pioneer PL-112D belt drive manual turntable I took a chance at a thrift store and bought a Technics SL-D1 strictly for the cartridge that was mounted on the tone arm. When I got it home and cleaned the turntable I found I had bought a real gem for under $30.00! It is a direct drive manual in near mint condition, it was just very dirty. It performs flawlessly. My point is, NEVER turn down a chance to buy a used turntable from a thrift store. You may get a surprise at what you have. Yes, there are tons of el cheapo Crosleys and the like but if the platter is made of heavy die cast metal and not the Chinesium plastic, chances are the rest of it will be good as well. The only thing I bought for the Technics was a new dust cover to replace the badly scratched and broken original one. I see many, many years of good service ahead with this turntable. And yes, the Pioneer is still in use as well.
Very well done "first TT" talk, You are excellent at vulgarization. I personally went with an SL-D2. No, it doesn't have an ajustable VTA, but I can just choos my cartridges around that plus there's alittle bit of adjustment that can be made via shims or mat thickness. Otherwise it ticks all the boxes for me. Sounds great to my ear, pretty fast and fluid sound reproduction, super stable, I love it, I spend my money on a good MM cartridge instead.
Thanks!
Great video, thank you for explaining everything so clearly!
I love my vintage Denon tt with a stand alone preamp.👍
Gerard Stroh!!!
Anadialog!!!
4 Years ago I was not shopping for Turntables and I Went to the Local Record store in tracy California in the united states of America and anyway I Buy Vinyl Records All the time and I have 7000 Records and I Saw this Super Heavy Vintage Pioneer PL-600 Quartz Lock Direct Drive Turntable and It is Made out all Meatal and I got it for $150 Dollars
and Now That same Turntable on Ebay Sells For over $900 !!!
30 years ago I saw A Vintage JVC Ql-Y5F Quartz Lock Turntable at A Goodwill Store for $50 Dollars and That Turntable is super Heavy Too!!!
You Saw My Commit Before About My Audio System and My MC phono Cartridge on my Pioneer Turntable!!!
I always Had Good Turntables and Stereo System When I was Growing up!!!!
I Looking at A Pro-ject Vinyl Record Cleaning Machine!!!
Good Video Anadialog!!!
I’ve been listening to records all my life. Have had different turntables and know what I’m doing.
Still, I’m watching this video. Hehe.
Great video mate.
One of the best comments out there....thank you!
Same here - LOL!
This is an extremely well done video. Thank you I have subscribed and am looking forward to more content.
Thank you so much. Great energy from comments like this!
my favorite turntable is my Technics Sl-1100a 50 years old and still running strong using an at-vm95sh cartridge on it
Nice! I still own a Technics SL-1700 from 1978. And that thing just refuses to die xD
I live in Indonesia where every turntable across the board is at least $100 higher than US UK and Europe. I got lucky by going to a store with a Pro-Ject DC on display and they sold me this display model for $100 off.
Haloo ini tempatnya dmn ya? Pgn bgt beli turntable
@@salmarahmatia19 Audio centre di glodok plaza
1. Decide what you want: manual, auto stop, or fully automatic. I find fully automatic to be so handy. Or at least auto stop, or auto return. I have a very expensive fully manual table (Thorens TD125), but I like my Pioneer PL560 100 times better. Picked up the Pioneer at a thrift store for $15.... I see nice ones selling around $500, or even more. PL560 is HEAVY for sure! So not all automatic turntables are crap. Lots of pretty good vintage amps and receivers with built in phone pre-amp. Some of the top models back in the day came with phono pre-amps. Agree, removable head is a must.
2 quick, simple and effective ways to improve almost any turntable. Attach a shelf that is large enough to hold your turntable onto a wall, ideally a supporting wall, don`t skimp on length of screws and thickness of brackets, go heavy duty. Secondly, isolate your turntable with small steel cones that Hi Fi shops sell. The result is a cleaner, clearer, fuller sound. I was lucky enough to pick up a Linn LP12 on Ebay and it sounded lovely but went up quite dramatically in quality when mounted on the wall.
True! Check this fir more details on isolation: ua-cam.com/video/UYMbi7v2pNU/v-deo.html
I have a Linn Basik from 25 years ago; it sits on 3 goofy rubber feet, which provide no dampening at all... I think everybody's advice is that it has to go on a shelf screwed to the wall :) I had hoped that someone modded a better stand/base for this TT, but can't seem to find anything.
@@Baerchenization There are a few high density rubber mats for turntables but isolation is usually an easier and more effective option.
😁🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣I like that one dude this is good for the new generation of Young teenage n young man they may like lp record from our era n they era is so cool n classic turntable is a classic look n it look dope n fresh 👍😎 good information bro
You have the same trouble speaking about a subject you're proficient in that I do. You're mind's working too quick lol. Thanks for the upload, I've just subscribed.
But as someone who does voice overs on the side I can tell he made an effort to practice his monolog. Otherwise he would be pausing and saying "um" a lot. Good speaker. Did a good job of informing
back in 1970 i bought my first system and i went as cheep as i could on the turntable. i was very disappointed. when i was able to upgrade
i doubled the money i spent, which in dollars is so different than today, but the difference was great. it was worth it. i don't remember
the exact amount but it was like $65-75 for the cheep one and $150-175 for the better one.
Cheep cheep! 🐣🐦🐤🦜🦆🐦🐣🐤🖕
I have a 1970's Toshiba Sr 355 direct drive and man it's heavy and and it slays anything that's not a cheap go to 70's TT, guess it has to do with the empire 4000 xl cart.
Cool!
Old Pioneer amps and receivers, the 70s till at least the mid 80s ones, have great phono preamps across the range. No need to spend on a seperate, expensive phono preamp if you have an amp or receiver of that brand and vintage, just plug in and enjoy!
pioneer were nasty in the 70s very low end equipment
@@johnholmes912 Low end? My 1979 SA-6088 is rock solid amp with both a sound stage and e phono pre you will not find in anything new for less than a 1000$
I believe that there's a degree of vinyl playback equipment overkill when I have researched buying a turntable. I have managed to prove, as you suggest in your video, that there's no need to pay huge sums of money to obtain a very competent record deck. However, I feel your opinion about it's better to buy a belt drive rather than direct drive turntable in the 200 to 400 currency dependent price range is misleading. For instance there's the highly regarded turntable by the hifi press, the Audio Technica AT-LP5 at approximately 350 euros, a direct drive deck. I use one myself with both Nagaoka mp110 & Audio Technica AT440MLB cartridges via a Rega Fono mk2 plus I've added a Funk firm achromat mat and I am extremely happy with its sound quality. Also, I purchased a Reloop RP7000 MK2, a Hanpin manufactured DJ turntable, weighing 11.5 kgs costing approximately 400 euros. The cartridge used is a Audio Technica VM95SH with a Shibata stylus via a Rega Fono MK3 plus a FF achromat the SL1200 version, which has demonstrated to be an extremely capable direct driven record deck. I believe it is a credible alternative to similarly priced belt driven Regas & Pro-jects record decks or even the far more expensive direct driven Technics SL1200GR.
You didn't mention what support the turntable will be placed on which must be considered when buying a record deck. I believe a wall shelf is best, or if this is not possible, it should be placed on a solid & level surface as far from the speakers as possible.
All in all your advice is valuable to the first time or the revisiting vinyl playback turntable buyer.
Your channel is just amazing, mate... And I know that this is a kind of old video but a new one for me... Since I'm a kind of newbie in vinyl (not in audio, because I'm audio enthusiast since young, I'm sound engineer at studio as second profession) but for vinyl playing, I'm a kind of newbie... What's your opinion over the Thorens TD147... Which cartridge you suggest for it... (Mainly for jazz listening)
Great to know ! I’m looking for one ;)
Buying heavy, true in many cases, But Rega turntables are very light and sound awsome, maybe a little more expencive
Wanted automatic so looked for a restored Technics 1600mk2, worth it so I can sit & drink while listening
Great video for someone starting out.
Great advise, i placed it on my favorites
DD vs Belt drive. Many prefer belt drive TTs because the platter is de-coupled from the motor and base. This cuts down on rumble (motor noise, usually not a problem) and feedback (from the speakers, a bigger problem especially if you play your music loud) . Most expensive TT's use belt drive to isolate the platter from the motor and base.
Really good turntables have good isolation. A good test of this is to thump on the turntable lid or base with the stylus in a record groove (but not spinning). If you hear the thump through the speakers, then isolation isn't good and feedback from your speakers will colour your music. On a really good turntable, you will not hear the thump. Good isolation is always better since it cuts down on resonances but if you only listen through headphones it is less important. Often the worst part of turntable for feedback is the lid and many recommended the lid be removed from the turntable before playing a record. Many very expensive turntables do not come with lids or have removeable lids for this reason.
In the old days there were some who argued that belt-drive with a heavy platter had better speed consistency since by design DD motors "pulse" power to maintain speed while the natural elasticity of a belt would smooth out the speed variation. In my experience there was no audible difference unless the belt is old and then sometimes they may slip. It can be difficult to find a replacement belt. This would be an argument in favor of a DD turntable.
Thank you Andrew for your nice analysis...i like the thump test! Have to try that...
Although what is said about belt drives advantages over direct drives are true, there is an advantage with dd turntables over bd ones. They tend to have better speed stability which results in better pitch control and no slowing down under transient load. I now use direct drive turntables, not because I don't appreciate a good bd tt but because I have found the better designed ( dare I say Hanpin ) ones are excellent performers for the money. I previously used a modified Project RPM 5.1 belt drive.
You still have a platter sitting on a spindle on a thrust bearing that couples vibration to the stylus.
"DD turntable with ( pitch-control) big advantage ..excellent for 78rpm ..some of these were cut to the speed of ..believe it or not up to 96rpm ..we're talking back-in-day 1900's onwards ragtime 💜 etc! .. having pitch-control well needed here to spin at the right pace for sound reproduction playback!! .."Oh very heavy wear on the needle at those speeds .. I would use M.C. or higher end M.M best I've found for the job Ortophon Concorde recommended here but that's for me .may not be for other audio-files out there in A.V. landscape ..
del..
Cool video I’m well past the beginner stage but I always like to see actual good advice being handed out, there’s so many self titled experts on UA-cam dishing out bad advice. I’ve always loved Rega decks. I’ve had a couple of Pro-Ject models (a Debut and an Expression) and whilst they sounded fine for the money, they did start to fall apart after a few years, their quality standards seem better these days though. Rega’s build quality and after sales care is second to none factor the money. I have an RP1/Elys in my sitting/dining room and a P5 with the Neo PSU and an Ortofon 2M Black in my main listening room. I’ll put the P5 in my secondary system at some point as I’m looking at either an RP10 or an LP12.
PS, just a point to note, anti skate adds some outwards bias to the arm to counteract the tendency for the arm to skate inwards.
Hi there, thank you! I really appreciate your comnent. Yes, I got mixed up on the anti-skating with the effect of the couterweight, sorry. This obviouly came out on several comments.
I don`t know much about Rega decks but if you want some long lasting, heavy engineering the LP12 takes some beating.
sheikhyaboooty Agreed, I have an almost all Linn active system... but with an upper tier Rega deck. I’ve had an LP12 n the past but then I had a family and moved it on, my only issues with the LP12 was the urge to keep upgrading parts. I’ll get another one eventually but I’ll probably go straight in at Akurate level, preferably a good ex dem/used one because an Akurate spec LP12 is around £7k new!
With regards to Rega decks, they’re very well made for the money, basic but well engineered and any of them will last a lifetime if not neglected.
@@Si1983h Hehehehe, I know exactly what you mean regarding upgrades. I was recently looking at a new cartridge and tone arm...cartridge was £600 and the arm, a bargain at £1400. I`m thinking I need to stop window shopping.
I Love a lot of the turn tables you mentioned But I just don't like that they dont come with the quick Connect cartridge I forget exactly what its called You can unscrew one cartridge and put on another one ,I have many original records I have had from the 60s 70s Some very good to new condition but some are in good and I like to change out my stylus/ Cartridge depending on the records condition so I do not ruin my expensive cartridge/ stylus Great video thanks for the Info
Thank you..I think you mean with a heafshell...
@@anadialog, uh head shell!
An Audio Technica LP120 is a great starting turntable it plays 33s, 45s and 77 rpm.
And it's loaded with problems... not so great.
As I said before. The DUAL 1264, ULM tone arm is the best of the best..850.00, 1982. Still have it and works perfect with Ortophon ULM 35 cartridge (stylis new-45.00) all CDN Currency. Can literally gently lift it while tracking an LP..without any noticiple sound difference or record destroying effect. That's the DUAL 1264.
I have a rega p1 and it kind of represents a pro-ject essential 2, however the first thing to do to it in my opinion is to change the cartridge as the stock carbon has some sibilance issuses, im running a at95e with it but im still deciding on a dedicated magnetic cartridge, either a ortofon 2m red or a grado black.
Grado! Frequency response is amazing!
the project debut carbon esprit with a cartridge upgrade is my usual recommendation
Personally, I think you nailed the price range. It's the "diminishing returns" sweet spot.
PRO JECT Primary E is the best choice ! Great cartridge, belt drive, fabulous sound and classic look !
I want an automatic turntable. I don’t what to have to babysit the machine for when the record comes to the end. An auto table can be programed to repeat also. These features enhance the experience n my opinion.
You can add easily tonearm lifters to almost any turntable, although they cannot repeat the program but that sounds more like a CD to me ;-)
If you are going to go low end, go Technics or AudioTechnica, their turntables have strobe speed check, and pitch adjust, so you can check the turntable is spinning at the right speed, and correct it when it doesn't. But then again the strobe isn't really good enough for that purpose. For the same money you can probably buy a better sounding turntable without these features but then you will have to trust the makers engineered their products well enough that the speed will be correct and consistent.
If you are considering getting an entry-level belt-driven model from Rega or Pro-Ject you MUST make sure that you're not susceptible to Wow & Flutter because these models often offer W&F up to 0.25% (in the case of Pro-Ject). And this can be audible with e.g. fast-transient piano music. The Fluance models are a tad better in that regard, as is the RP1 (which is still rated at 0.17% IIRC). Quartz-locked Direct Drive models are rock steady when it comes to W&F but can create noticeable motor rumble when they are not built correctly. But that shouldn't be an issue with models from 400€ and above.
So in my opinion, what counts for cheap Direct Drive models also counts for cheap belt-driven ones. At the lower end of the price range, you will need to compromise. And a (truly well-acclaimed) Rega tonearm or a Pro-Ject carbon tonearm with low resonance and high precision won't do you any good if you can't enjoy music due to you being susceptible to W&F.
Omg this! Bought two rega RP1 at 60% off end of life and they went right back! Not sure I would have kept them even if they were free 😂 I have just ordered a P6 and I’m honestly concerned if it will be good enough to not bug me.
@@RigVader anything from Rega Planar 3 and above will be fine.
@@svenschwingel8632 I have a P3 and it’s not quite there.. guess that’s what playing music for 20 years will do to ya 😅 For me sustained notes are the worst, but I’m sure the P6 with the ref belt will be fine.
@@RigVader if you are REALLY susceptible towards this phenomenon, I think there's no way around a direct drive deck. With modern motor designs, the cogging of old is no longer an issue. I recommend giving the current Technics lineup a try. Maybe you'll find the SL-1500 to be a player you like
Im getting myself a german TT a reloop rp-1000 mk3 ltd chrome edition. Its a belt driven tt and has not intergrated phono preamp, just a straight out phono line and Gnd ofc. Its a used one with an at-95e on it but i already have in my possesion a spare cart from my father, a grado prestige blue 1!! Im getting a gift preamp from the seller, a behringer 440 budget phono for start and later im thinking of buying a schiit mani when i find one in the EU market.. WHAT do you think about my selections? TT and gift preamp for the price of 120euros ~140usd
A great start!
Why one should avoid fully automatic turntables? Have a look at vintage Denon DP-47F or DP-52F, for instance: You just press the Start button and that is it! The sound quality is quite good … The tonearm automatically gets back to the armrest at the end of the record, or replays the record if you have also pressed the Repeat button … All you have to do is to enjoy the music!
Most of them are crap. Surely not all of them.
Q: Tip #6: If I have my VTA set well, and I then play a 180mg record, will that throw off the VTA? Or should I adjust it each time I play a 180mg record?
Don't worry and enjoy your music! The change is there but very subtle and the cantilever will adjust and compensate. VTA is important but not that important IMO
I love my Pro-ject Essential III George Harrison edition. A+++
Thank you for your videos!! I just bought my first turntable and ended up with a mint technics 1200 mk2 from 1981 for 500$ it looks like it hasn't even been used! I had to clean and lubricate the tone arm height adjustment but that's all. You helped guide me to real quality! would I be smart to pair it with a schiit modi and then run it into a 70's Marantz 2200 series receiver or with the old Marantz, is the schiit modi unnecessary?
Hi there! Glad the hear this. That is a great start, congrats! Perhaps you intended the Mani, the Modi is a DAC and you need a phono pre-amp. Yes, you can also simply use the Marantz in its phono in but it is mainly a receiver. If you still are thinking of what to purchase try going for an amplifier. In any case it's a great starting point. A dedicated phono pre-amp will almost always sound better that the phono stage included in your receiver. Enjoy!
@@anadialog yes yes, the mani... and thanks!
Lol so the new at-lp120xusb is out with this updated model. They did away with the tonearm height adjustment to simplify the end user having to adjust it. Therefore it's set for the now discontinued at95E audio Technica cart that comes pre-installed. Lol
Fluance RT range seem to be very popular. They have a heavy plinth, an ok finish, a tonearm with adjustable weight and anti skating, servo controlled DC motor, very quiet. RT 84 and 85 have acrylic platters and ortofon 2m cartridge. Is there a much point spending more than that on a turntable?
Getting killer sound in the high-end realm seems to be this:
Ortoforn black cart
$500 table
acrylic or other low inertia platter upgrade.
Basically? $1300 more or less.
Sounds and looks good!
Scott Lowell will a £500 turntable really be a suitable platform for a £500 cartridge? In my opinion no.
Thank you...
For a starter, what are your thoughts on a Technics SL-BD20d?
thanks for the detailed content. I roll the Dual Q731. Opinions? Recommended Cartridge? Many thanks in advance. Cheers.
Hi ana[dia]log ! I appretiate your videos verry much! Thank you for your tips. I have a question about buying my second TT. My firt one was a cheap and mainly plastic. At first it worked, but after a wile it started to degrading. I have found a second hand Denon DP-47F for the budget that I have /200 Euros/. It goes against some of your tips /direct drive and automated arm/ however I read a lot of positive review of it. Do you think it is a good choise for casual listening? I'm not an audiophile and would appretiate the automatic features of the Denon. Cheers !!!
Hi Konstantin, if you are convinced to 'remain' a casual listener and automation is a must, then this is a veey nice tt for the price. I've checked around and it seems that is suffers a little bit from mishandling and perhaps just delicate components...make sure it is perfectly working!
Wow loved this video. So honest and informative for the higher end budget friendly. What would you suggest fro a budget of $350 limit US dollars? Also what about the same suggestion for a stand alone amp not within a receiver?
Thanks! Check this video for further suggestions: ua-cam.com/video/KB3h4P95Zak/v-deo.html
Soon I will be publishing also something...similar!
What's your opinion about Technics Sl - 1900 turntable?
Wonderful video. I want to buy 2nd hand but I'm still hesitating between let's say Rega planar 3 (or something similar like Revolver or NAD) and something more classic such as Pioneer PL-12D. Any thoughts? I haven't bought any additional equipment since I wanted to choose a deck first (which will be my 1st deck). I'm planning to invest around £500-600, and hope that with smart buying on used market would give me some pleasure.
Well theybare all excellent products. I would consider the Rega or the Pioneer but they must be in perfect working condition
I like the Lenco 3355,but not now. A man in a hi Fi shop said having a CD Player with a amp from the same company works better than 2 different ones, your view please?
Some company? “Synergy” is overrated IMO. A synergy done by yourself with wisdoms and knowledge will be these marketing phrases.
The example you showed of the cartridge that could not be removed, CAN BE(This was the ceramic Crosley example or equivalent). The shell cannot be removed. I would have shown the AT LP60 because the CARTRIDGE on the TT cannot be removed....easily....
Did you mean cartridge wear out? or STYLUS wear out???
I still believe the Fluance RT-81 is still the best bet for a starter turntable because of it ability for upgrading. It has a removable headshell which the one you show do not.
How are u turn turntables are they any good
An excellent starter, especially with acrylic platter.
Should I get the Audio Technica Lp120x?
IMHO, no. Direct drive models are good only in very high quality models. Otherwise the way to go is belt driven. Check this vid for some new suggestions: ua-cam.com/video/KB3h4P95Zak/v-deo.html
Thank you for this sage advice. As a new recruit, and someone looking to buy a first TT, would you advocate for a new Project Debut Carbon, or a used Technics SL-1400 mk2? Both can be had for around $400. Is there another audiopile table you would suggest in the $300-$400 range? Thank you!!
I would go belt. The Project or stretch a little for a Rega.
Great video, very informative, how would you recomend the Fluance Turntables?
I must admit that I never tried one. Here in Europe they aren't that used...
N. Ignore pre-installed cartridges. This factor must not be considered when you choose a turntable. They are good to check whether is a device working or not. Start from AT LEAST AT740ML and similar. Purchase an MM cartridge if its price is at least $500. Hana ML/MH or AT ART9XI could be a good choice imho.
N+1. Save on a turntable, invest into a cartridge and a phono preamp.
N+2. Don’t purchase a turntable for less than $900-1500. They are fashion toys. Fluance, Pro-Ject, Rega, Teac, Audio-Technica, Dual, most of Thorenses... are just platforms with a spinning disk with wow/flutter/ rotation speed variance about 0.2%, SNR about 60dB, and weight about 5kg. A total c..p.
N+3. Ignore models with a flat belt drive. Don’t be afraid of a direct drive. For that price they all are quiet (there are actually few drive models on a market only, and many manufacturers use them)
N+4. Check out Technics SL1200 MK7, MoFi StudioDeck, Magnat MTT 990, E.A.T. Prelude. These are good for a beginning. Pro-Jects and Regas start from $2k. A really good staff costs more than $4k. And this is not an audiophile. This is about tech specs.
N+5. Perform a total calculation. Some positions look interesting unless you realize you have to purchase a dust cover, an acrylic slip mat, a vibro isolation platform, etc.
N+6. Pay attention on an effective mass of s tonearm. 8-15g is good, 15-20 is acceptable, if it’s more this will make some issues with a compatibility. Ignore manufacturers who hide specs (like Rega). There must be a reason to do that.
N+7. Left some money for a disk cleaning device, brushes for disk and a cartridge, good RCA cable, a cabinet for disks, antistatic and protective sleeves. And of course create a profile on discogs ;)
Nice video, but even a lot of budget turntables have a line/phono switch under the platter. There are holes in the platter that allow you to access the switch. Example, the Optimus Lab 1100 has that feature, and there are many clone variants of this turntable. It's also not a bad entry level turntable that can be bought very cheaply. I bought mine 2nd hand for $40. It uses an Audio Technica ATN3600 stylus, and the tonearm is already perfectly tracking force and anti-skate adjusted from the factory. Great as a backup turntable if you then get something more expensive - *if* - you think you still need to.
My point is, you don't need to be a "cork-sniffer" when it comes to turntables. To be honest, I think spending USD$300+ on a turntable is just too excessive. There are heaps of vintage turntables out there on the 2nd hand market that will get you better bang for the buck, and most of the time, you just need a new belt, about $5, and a lube on the spindle, and maybe a new cartridge like a Audio Technica ATVM95E.
I agree on vintage choice...
Two things. When you're buying a new TT, see what your electronics store has to offer, go on the internet and see what other people say. Then make your decision. Make sure that the store has a return policy. I bought mine at Best Buy. If you're not satisfied, take it back. There were two items from BB which I did not like. I returned them. No problem.
As far as used audio equipment goes, unless your Techmoan or VWestlife, I would be hesitant. You have to be a guy that loves to tinker, especially on electronics (which I am not). I don't think that many of used electronics dealers have a return policy. I bought a used cassette deck a few months ago. The man was very nice and he said it was eating tapes. He gave me $20.00 off and no return policy. As it was only $70.00, I figured why not. I couldn't fix it. 😕 I bought it "as is." Just a few pointers on my experiences. Stay safe.
I wish we had that policy in Europe! Here once it's yours it's yours! Only if you buy something online you can send it back. In any case send the deck to a lab. They will repair it for cheap and then you can enjoy it...or sell it a much higher price!
@@anadialog The electronics repair place in my town closed about a year and a half ago. To pack it up, postage charges (it was really heavy) and repair charges, I figured it was not worth it. So, I got a new tape deck with warranty.
I see!
@@anadialog ☺
Very useful video!
I own a 60s Grundig console which I intend to restore. At the moment, it has a late 80s turntable inserted with a broken belt. I'm thinking of finding an original turntable that was in this console and make it work again. Do you think these old models ruin the vinyl as time goes by? Would you suggest such a task, or it's better to go for a completely new turntable?
No, it's a great idea and if you get tired of it, if it is restored, you will easily sell it!
@@anadialog oh God certainly not selling it 🤣 it's sentimental value. Was bought by my grandparents in 1966 and through it I got to know many of my favourite artists in my grandparents' and parents' vinyls.
What is a "heavy" turn table?
High mass! There are exceptions like Rega...
Does the Flunace rt83 qualify?
A Rega planar 6 glued to 4 bricks!
Upwards of 12lbs.
Sir, thanks for your useful
information about the
cost of turntables.
Toney T. Isaiah.
+Toney Isaiah thank you for watching!
Keep it simple.
Things I have found.
It appears all current high end players are belt drive., heavy, mass the plater is a fly wheel it has better stability. A standard type tone arm not parallel tracking .
All your first choices are with straight ton-arm. I do prefer S ton-arm which follows better the groove. I think.
I could be crazy but whether S or straight, as long as the cart is aligned, both will track the same as it is a linear progression across the plate. Unless the tone arm can alter its shape while in motion, the effects are the same. Thus the linear tables.
Straight or S shaped makes no difference apart from aesthetics. What is important is the arc angle of the arm, and the angle of the cart on the head shell. The slots in the head shell allow for the distance from the tonearm pivot point, but also allow for the mounting angle on the head shell
I agree though, the S shaped looks great, but functionality wise, no difference..
@@tomb8430 Sorry for you all but I have learned that shorter straight ton-arms are worse than long S ton-arms because of the edge of the diamond-needel. This one turns more over itself with short ton-arms than with long ton-arms. It is due to the shortness of the arm which cause a bigger and rude move to the faces of the needle at its edge. And so they teach me. For rond or elliptical diamonds, it might be not so important but for shibata, microline or special microline needles, it might be very important.
@@alainmoret5887 I understand that a longer tonearm, regardless of shape is better because the arc is not so tight because of the bigger radius, but S or straight, at the end of the day, the stylus will be in the same linear position. On a straight tonearm, if the cartridge is angled, it will be no different to an S shaped arm.
From what I can see with the calibration mats, the idea is to set the cartridge, and by extension, the cantilever so that it is perpendicular as much as possible to the spindle. And when you think about this, that makes perfect sense. If the arm is longer, the head will not "twist" as much when it is rotating around it's axis.
People need to remember, there are insanely hight end straight tone armed decks out there. They would not opt for that design if it were inferior.
S-Shaped arms look technical. They look sexy. They have something that draws the eye. But from a technical, practical, and functionality standpoint, there is no difference - and I need to qualify again - *if* the cartridge is adjustable (moved forward and backward, and rotated) on the head shell.
@@tomb8430 Thank you, You did understand my point of vue correctly. I was scarred not to have the vocabularies to explain, it was so technical, I had problem to choose words. But, well done. Ok, I understand you well. What I can see on the market is that S tonearm turntables are 99% of the time for DJ's (Technics) and straight tonearm turntables for privacy at home or high quality sound turnetables (Pro-ject, etc.). Maybe because DJ's have to find tonearm in the dark or so quick that long arm is better for them.
Great video 👍. Learned a lot! What do you think of the Fluance rt82-85? It has vertical adjustment but the effective mass is 28.2g, Is that a blocker? Thanks, I enjoy your videos, keep them coming!
fluance rt82-85 does NOT have VTA. check their faq's ; i know because i'm eyeing exactly same line, but there a bit above my budget rt 85
Sorry, I think I missed this comment. I am not a big fan of fluance. I prefer more the companies that have turntable experience since the last century. Not always, there are exceptions.i think that in a mid-life segment its better to invest in a good vintage turntable. They are very good, at a fraction of the price and...they are stylish!
They are good turntables they sound fantastic
Also Fluance are good bang for buck.
I cannot decide whether to buy old/vintage or a new turntable. What would you suggest? I am affraid that the old ones are more likely to destroy.
Vintage is a great way to get high quality with a low budget. Better if serviced or bring your new Vintage purchase for a checkup (not as expensive as you would think).
@@anadialog I'm afraid that eventually the price will get higher due to various repairs and so on, and that it will end up more expensive than the new one in the end.
VTA is there to be able to swap cartridges and adjust the SRA. That the arm has to be parallel to the record is not correct I am affraid. It might have been a starting point one day, but it is the correct SRA you're after adjusting the VTA.
If everything is correctly set, the tonearm must be parallel to tye platter, if not you need to adjust the cartridge and headshell if you have one. At that point you should obtain the correct Vertical Tracking Angle of your stylus, as shown in the video. SRA is the same, just a different measuring point!
@@anadialog Maybe this link will clear things a bit up, at about 40 min in Fremer explains why it is a starting point but not a dogma.
ua-cam.com/video/dCJ7nAdITdk/v-deo.html
These are great tips. I don't think they are for the true beginner on a budget you describe at the beginning of the video. I think that person would be fine with a descent less expensive table with an internal phono pre, and some descent powered bookshelf speakers / Sub. The trick is knowing that there are some 100$ turntables that will work well and some that are utter garbage. It's very frustrating when shops openly push the garbage. It hurts them in the end. This video to me would be for someone starting to dip their toe into better sound. You can have a pleasant experience that opens the door for you for less and start buying records, then save for better parts. If you do want to spend a little more money up front this video rocks.
I think you are probably right!
am I wrong but the Rega & Project Debut Carbon don't have adjustable vertical tracking angle. Actually I don't think the Concept does either.
Wrong MM, Rega arms can be raised with spacers.
Hey, ANA[DIA]LOG, I was wondering if I could get your opinion on the Pro-Ject Debut Recordmaster. It's on sale right now for €300. And since you recommend two other Pro-ject tts in this video, another Debut even, and also because there aren't a lot of reviews on the Recordmaster variant, can you tell me if you would recommend this one as well, given I'm a starter to vinyl?
I have a Rega RP1, rewired, Audio Technica AT-150MLX cartridge, Musical Fidelity preamp, acrylic platter, gold plated RCA cable connector, etc. You will not get that combination because most of it is after market (platter, cartridge, preamp, record weight). Don't get mad that said all that because it is a lead in to my second system which has an Audio Technica AT-LP3WH (white) with an acrylic platter mat. ($270 for both). That is never enough if you really wish to get the best from your records. A Vincent PHO-8 preamp is $250, and there are numbers of cartridges that are very good under $100 (Ortofon 2M-Red, Vessel - A3SE (the best $99 at LP Gear). Firgure on $500-600 to get what you need for a lifetime of enjoyment. Anything less and you won't stay with it. Note: The LP3 turntable is automatic with a screw off headshell. You will be extremely glad you have this design for trading up cartridges. Note2: Always make a mental note where the factory cartridge is located on the headshell. This will save hours or trial and error when you change the cartridge. No matter what brand the location of the tip never changes when you set it.
Hello! Greatings from Lithuania! Would like to hear your opinion about these turntables: Pro-ject Audio The Classic; Gold Note Valore 425 Lite; Music Hall mmf-5.3. Would be great full for any thoughts about them. Which one to choose?
I've checked the specs and features of all, and in my opinion the Music Hall stands out, especially if you get the ortofon blu combo!
HI Guido, what are your thoughts on reccord weights, do we need them, are they worth it, do they work ?
I made a video on clamps, weight, stabilizers etc. : ua-cam.com/video/S6jeONQPWH4/v-deo.html
The short answer IMO is no, but every turntable is a different story so it's worth experimenting.
For a low budget,going vintage is still more wise than buying new.
And it doesnt matter if its a belt or a direct drive.
New turntables in this class are simply to shitty in over all quality
or have at least one major flaw - like a realy cheap motor - that will bite
you in the butt after a while. Also they lack in ease of handling and
comfort.
Have in mind that the cartridge is beside the speakers and the listening
room itself the most sound deciding component. So you are better of
being clear about what cartridge you will use with your (new) turntable and
then look for a turntables tonearm that fits the needs of the cartridge to
function optimal. Some cartridges also have very specific requirements
regarding load capacitance and/or impedance,which includes the phono
input of your amplifier,avr or separate phonopreamp to the equation.
If you dont have a phonoinput or separate phonopreamp that is also a
additional cost factor.
You see,its not that simple to choose correctly. It needs oversight as well
as attention to detail to make the right decisions.
My personal experience buying new turntables such as the Audio Technica AT-LP5 and Reloop 7000Mk2 direct drives has been a positive one. The build quality of both decks is surprisingly high including the tonearms despite being sourced from the notorious Hanpin company. The Reloop is a beast weighing 11.5 kgs, which is very resistant to vibration, has a adjustable powerful direct drive motor, all metal plinth and generally built to take the punishing treatment it will receive in a dj/dance club environment. Plus with a good quality cartridge such as the Audio Technica VM95SH it sounds superb, right up there with the likes of the Rega Planar P3, Pro-ject RPM5 acrylic platter and even the Technics 1200GR. I advise anyone looking for a new turntable to check out the direct drive turntables as well as the belt driven Regas and Pro-jects.
Hi, you explained the anti-skating wrong. Normally the stylus go inwards to centre, and anti-skate will pull outwards to outside. Am I right?
Yes you are! I did clarify this in other comments. Sorry, got mixed up inwards with outwards.
hello do you recommend any of the following? The AT-LP60XSPBT or the Crosley t100 record player
AT all the way
Crosley c6 or audio techinca at lp 60x? What is better? ( with edifier r1280 or edifier r1700)
AT all the way!
Hi.. For people looking towards vintage TTs i do NOT recommend Bang & Olufsen ! I´ve had my RX-2 for about 29 years and am honestly still Very happy with it.. But, they discontinued their cartridge production ( an american company got the license now), so a `new`-refurbished top-of-the-line mmc1 cartridge is about $700 - $1000 ! ..and off course B&O can only fit B&O cart´s.. My 17 year old Original mmc1 still outplays Many other TTs with MC cart´s, but if it breaks, I´m screwed ! I´d go for Rega Anyday !!
Thanks for sharing your experience!
ana[dia]log sure thing mate.. Whatever us ´old` analogists can do to help others enjoy the pleasure of vinyl as best as possible, we should feel obligated to do, right..? Thank You for well directed and informative vids :) Keep up the Great work
what do you think about Thorens TD 203 which is $699?
I've noticed that a lot of budget turntables under €300 that _could_ be on this list because they check every of the 9 points but one subpoint, which is the VTA - other than that, they meet every demand - which sucks
Don't worry too much about VTA and get the tt you prefer!
@@anadialog Oh. Well that's good to hear :D
In that case, there's three tables I'm looking at.
If you could help me, that'd be cool; if you can't, I completely get that, 'cause you must get these questions all the time.
I have three tables I'm doubting between:
- Reboot Turn 2
- Teac TN 280
- Denon DP 300-F
All seem like good quality tables, I'm 99% sure they check all of the boxes in this video's list (except VTA of course), and I'm not sure which one to pick.
Do you recommend any over the others and why?
thoughts on a mint condition sony ps-4750 direct drive?
I think it's better.to spend the same amount of money on a belt drive. Only high end models achieve low rumble with direct drives. In any case, according to your budget, the most important part is your cartridge, phono preamp and your tonearm in this sequence IMHO.
I have a Thorens TD 280 but a Lynn cartdridge. Have no idea who's choose to switch this one. Any advice to choose a nice a good neadle meadle rage?
A what?
@@sandmanbub cartridge. I have an old Linn
That is lift my DUAL 1264 almost fully vertical...
What would be a good budget pre amp and amp to add to the Rega planar?
Rega io £380
What do you think of the fluance rt85 ?
Looks like a nice TT. Don't have direct experience though.
My personal feelings and a lot of "audio" geeks will disagree. I dislike belt drive turntables simply because you have to be 100% sure that the manufacturer will supply spare belts now and in 10 years time. When looking at older 1970's and 80's turntables you are taking a big chance on belts still being available. A direct drive is the way to go. It may have slightly more noise (to who I still don't know) but overall it will be more accurate on speed control and more reliable. Just look around at how many Technics SL1200 and 1700's etc are still around and they have a FANTASTIC reputation. Buying brand new, if it's long term make sure you manufacturer will be around in 10 years time ....
I'll be upgrading Toneyanne soon.
Toney Tillery Isaiah.
My budget is 500 dollars. Should I get my Technics Sl-D3 fully restored or buy a new NAD C 558 turntable?
Very hard decision...if you like a touch of history and vintage Technics is the way to go although it really neds to be fully serviced because firect drives must be at top performarce to wirk well...chose the midern NAD for solid bekt performance and high quality damping materials + cartridge...maybe I would go NAD...
@@anadialog Thank you for your input! I think I will try to do both. Get the NAD first, and since my repair man is very slow I should have the funds for the Technics by the time it is done.
How about audio- technica
Their are decent, but I think it is worth investing a little more and get a true high fidelity piece of gear.
hello, I'm buying a used technics sl-qb35 for 90$ , do you think is a good deal? and I'm thinking to plug it to my Marshall stanmore bluetooth speaker with rca cable, any ideas?
If you want to keep the chain at a very low budget I can say yes but maybe at that point its just better to get an Ausiotechnica LP60. The Marshall is not a good solution because, leaving the quality aside (the whole spectrum of your music will not be reproduced plus some distortion in the lower frequencies at higher volumes) you are missing the stereo effect because the drivers are too close to each other.
ohh ok I need a old stereo as preamp then. so the technica Lp60 is better off than the technics sl-qb35 in quality? I see the technica lp60 is on sale brand new in different stores
Not necessarily better. It depends if the Technics (qd not qb) is in perfect condition, if it is, then it is more cool to have a vintage piece of gear. In terms of quality, as I always say, direct drive turntables are good only when they are high end quality, otherwise its better to go belt drive like the Audiotechnica. I must admit that the wow and flutter is better on the Technics, probably because the motor on the AT is pretty basic. So in the end considering the expense, I think the Technics will give you more fun and you will be able to sell it back more easily when you will decide to upgrade.
ohh ok, I understand now. can you recommend me a preamp or stereo that I could use with this technics player?
@@hec7111 at this price range a Shiit Mani would be perfect!