My M2C came with VRSF charge pipes already installed. I cannot believe Mishimoto still offers these pipes in this design. I completely understand the fitment issues / rubbing with uniform (same) inside diameter piping, but performance gains is what I prefer in this area of the engine. And yes, my plastic cover does rub on one of the charge pipes.
Good video. Glad to see you kept the stock hose clamps and provided the explanation as to why they are the correct clamp for this application and not the typical hose clamps that come with almost all aftermarket charge pipe kits. The BMW engineers chose this type of clamp for this purpose for a reason, yet most people don’t pay attention to this. I have even seen some use T-bolt clamps with a charge pipe install 😱….
Thanks! I believe it's important to try and understand the original design intent BMW had when the aftermarket part differs, especially when it's a not just a simple case of "BMW was cost cutting." If BMW is using a more expensive part than the aftermarket kit (Norma clamps, higher grade bolts, ect.), pay attention! That said, the hose clamp bmw uses on the J-pipe coupler is pretty cheap, haha (but also looking at the flange you can understand why a wave spring wasn't required).
@@FaRKle0079yeah the j pipe clamps from stock kind of suck, I replaced those with t bolt and it has not popped off yet. I'll stick to oem clamps for the charge pipe though!
Great video, as always. Do you have a link to that torque wrench/bit driver you're using for tightening the worm drive clamps? Seems much more useful than even a 1/4" drive standard torque wrench. Thanks!
Does the back charge pipe have a gap in the back? like at the bottom flange where it connects to the turbo for the back charge pipe I’m asking about. Please let me know because I have a gap on my charge pipes and I believe that will have a boost leak with the gap. The bolt goes all the in the flange that connects to the turbo and it’s tight but there’s still a gap in the bottom
The charge pipes should be able to rock back and forth with the bolt to the turbo bottomed out. They're designed this way so you can detach them from the intercooler up top without having to unbolt them from the turbo.
@@FaRKle0079 I meant like after everything is bolted down and tightened including the bottom bolts that connects to the turbo and the clamps connected to the intercooler are all tight. Do you notice a gap at the back from the bottom of the flange that connects to the turbo? If possible can I send you pictures via email? if you don’t mind? Thanks
Would you recommend the ohlins road and track kit for the f80? I watched your videos on it but wanted to get an idea of how they performed. I want something that isn’t too aggressive but is an improvement over stock. Or would you recommend something else? Thanks.
It depends on your use case. I think there can be more comfortable suspensions, and suspensions that are better if you want to go lower. What are you looking to do? R&T is pretty good for a car that's going to see the product's namesake (road/street and track).
@@FaRKle0079 I don’t care about making the car lower. I don’t mind stock ride height, I just want it to perform better on track and maybe corner weight the suspension. But still ride half decent on the street.
there is a saying going around, that although the aftmkt charge pipe stays strong, it may drop or fall off due to heat expansion differences or clamping issues. and i have had frd dropping their metal pipes while track driving. so how many track mileage have you put on these baby pipes? are they stable after throwing ur car around the corners, eating the curbs and all that?
These charge pipes have been solid. The way the bolt captures them to the turbo will prevent them from coming off, and reusing the stock clamps on the silicone couplers allows for consistent clamping through temperature changes.
Probably one of the worst designs ever, i bought & have these on my car now to and let me tell you…..trying to tighten that E10 with an open ended 8mm is a DISASTER. I straight up stripped both them out tryin to tighten them for 2 hours and guess what? There is still play between the chargepipes and the turbo, i can push the charepipes up & down with just the force of 2 small fingers….i can only imagine what going on down there while under immense boost pressure. Tbh i don’t even know how there still on, I even triple checked the bolt to make sure it was completely bottomed out and i’m still able to move them up and down no issue at all. It is only maybe mm’s i’m able to move them up & down but still Super annoying! Really wonder when there gunna pop off. That weld that’s in the way is mental…do yourself a favor if you reading this and just get a different brand of chargepipes, maybe FTP
There's supposed to be play even with the etorx screw fastened all the way down. All chargepipes will have that because it's a design feature. Watch the "Prep for new charge pipes" at 12:30 and I explain how this works. So rest assured, your pipes aren't going to pop off!
@@FaRKle0079 oh, well, that’s good to know 💀😂 i was like damn, all that R&D and talk about how there suppose to be the best chargepipes out of all the other brands and and they go and have play? But if you say it’s suppose to be like that i believe you, i know your knowledge is far greater than mine. Thanks for the reassurance!
i recently just installed mine. Thought for a second I had the same "problem". But yea the mounting bolts are designed like that. As long as you feel like the car is pulling right and do not have a check engine light due to a boost leak that means it is in properly. Video was very informative as well.
My M2C came with VRSF charge pipes already installed. I cannot believe Mishimoto still offers these pipes in this design. I completely understand the fitment issues / rubbing with uniform (same) inside diameter piping, but performance gains is what I prefer in this area of the engine. And yes, my plastic cover does rub on one of the charge pipes.
Good video. Glad to see you kept the stock hose clamps and provided the explanation as to why they are the correct clamp for this application and not the typical hose clamps that come with almost all aftermarket charge pipe kits. The BMW engineers chose this type of clamp for this purpose for a reason, yet most people don’t pay attention to this. I have even seen some use T-bolt clamps with a charge pipe install 😱….
Thanks! I believe it's important to try and understand the original design intent BMW had when the aftermarket part differs, especially when it's a not just a simple case of "BMW was cost cutting."
If BMW is using a more expensive part than the aftermarket kit (Norma clamps, higher grade bolts, ect.), pay attention!
That said, the hose clamp bmw uses on the J-pipe coupler is pretty cheap, haha (but also looking at the flange you can understand why a wave spring wasn't required).
@@FaRKle0079yeah the j pipe clamps from stock kind of suck, I replaced those with t bolt and it has not popped off yet. I'll stick to oem clamps for the charge pipe though!
@@drifter2090 it's funny how the cheap hose clamps you can buy at Home Depot are better than the OE J-pipe one!
Great video, as always. Do you have a link to that torque wrench/bit driver you're using for tightening the worm drive clamps? Seems much more useful than even a 1/4" drive standard torque wrench. Thanks!
This is the T-handle torque driver I use: amzn.to/3Kgajge
These types of torque drivers are commonly used for bicycle maintenance.
Wonderful, thank you. As another F31 328d owner who also just picked up an S55 in the shape of an F83, I appreciate your work!
@@twentyvalveb5 Congrats on the new ride! F83 is such a great summer cruiser!
Does the back charge pipe have a gap in the back? like at the bottom flange where it connects to the turbo for the back charge pipe I’m asking about. Please let me know because I have a gap on my charge pipes and I believe that will have a boost leak with the gap. The bolt goes all the in the flange that connects to the turbo and it’s tight but there’s still a gap in the bottom
The charge pipes should be able to rock back and forth with the bolt to the turbo bottomed out. They're designed this way so you can detach them from the intercooler up top without having to unbolt them from the turbo.
@@FaRKle0079 I meant like after everything is bolted down and tightened including the bottom bolts that connects to the turbo and the clamps connected to the intercooler are all tight. Do you notice a gap at the back from the bottom of the flange that connects to the turbo? If possible can I send you pictures via email? if you don’t mind? Thanks
Would you recommend the ohlins road and track kit for the f80? I watched your videos on it but wanted to get an idea of how they performed. I want something that isn’t too aggressive but is an improvement over stock. Or would you recommend something else? Thanks.
It depends on your use case. I think there can be more comfortable suspensions, and suspensions that are better if you want to go lower. What are you looking to do? R&T is pretty good for a car that's going to see the product's namesake (road/street and track).
@@FaRKle0079 I don’t care about making the car lower. I don’t mind stock ride height, I just want it to perform better on track and maybe corner weight the suspension. But still ride half decent on the street.
there is a saying going around, that although the aftmkt charge pipe stays strong, it may drop or fall off due to heat expansion differences or clamping issues. and i have had frd dropping their metal pipes while track driving. so how many track mileage have you put on these baby pipes? are they stable after throwing ur car around the corners, eating the curbs and all that?
These charge pipes have been solid. The way the bolt captures them to the turbo will prevent them from coming off, and reusing the stock clamps on the silicone couplers allows for consistent clamping through temperature changes.
Does it sound different? It should.
I haven't noticed any sound change with these.
more important is change Jpipe...
Why?
@@peterkukolik8402 because jpipe likes shooting out on stock power
@@carisfun Thanks.
Probably one of the worst designs ever, i bought & have these on my car now to and let me tell you…..trying to tighten that E10 with an open ended 8mm is a DISASTER. I straight up stripped both them out tryin to tighten them for 2 hours and guess what? There is still play between the chargepipes and the turbo, i can push the charepipes up & down with just the force of 2 small fingers….i can only imagine what going on down there while under immense boost pressure. Tbh i don’t even know how there still on, I even triple checked the bolt to make sure it was completely bottomed out and i’m still able to move them up and down no issue at all. It is only maybe mm’s i’m able to move them up & down but still Super annoying! Really wonder when there gunna pop off. That weld that’s in the way is mental…do yourself a favor if you reading this and just get a different brand of chargepipes, maybe FTP
There's supposed to be play even with the etorx screw fastened all the way down. All chargepipes will have that because it's a design feature. Watch the "Prep for new charge pipes" at 12:30 and I explain how this works.
So rest assured, your pipes aren't going to pop off!
@@FaRKle0079 oh, well, that’s good to know 💀😂 i was like damn, all that R&D and talk about how there suppose to be the best chargepipes out of all the other brands and and they go and have play? But if you say it’s suppose to be like that i believe you, i know your knowledge is far greater than mine. Thanks for the reassurance!
i recently just installed mine. Thought for a second I had the same "problem". But yea the mounting bolts are designed like that. As long as you feel like the car is pulling right and do not have a check engine light due to a boost leak that means it is in properly. Video was very informative as well.