I think a lot of amp companies are putting too many channels, buttons, knobs, switches, jacks, and features into their amps. It makes for a really crowded and complicated amp. With more possibilities of things going wrong.
I remember a Jim Marshall interview when he was asked about the complicated acoustical math involved in determining cabinet size and dimensions on his 4x12 units, he just said it was the the smallest box he could fit four twelve inch speakers in.
I also remember Jim saying in an interview: As you start adding more features to a guitar amp, the amp starts to lose something. I'm assuming he was referring to either tone, resonance, or even touch sensitivity. Perhaps a little of all 3. I'm not saying he was right in saying that, but I tend to believe he was onto something, at least back then. As the the old saying goes: sometimes less is more.
An unfortunate sinking of a long revered company since James Marshall's death.This episode should be forwarded to Marshall as evidentiary proof that this design is inexcusably flawed.
Indeed , Im completely happy with my 20 c & have experienced ZERO problems - owned it since 4 years ! . Experimenting with different Tubes - Speakers can make a huge difference in Volume & TONE too !
I have the Origin 20 combo, mine is quiet as a mouse when cranked up, you wouldn't even know its on until you strum a note and get blown away. I run mine into 2 4x12 cabs btw.
...and that is the sound of not my problem! love it! I have an origin 5 that I just had "fixed" for $100 and the problem came back almost immediately. Are these things just a joke? Anyway, my O5 has a volume drop issue and I don't think the tech did anywhere near the level of investigating you did. I.e. trying to find the root of the problem. Just change a part that makes it work for a minute then hand back to customer. You're awesome; keep these vids coming! Hoping more techs watch these and see what it takes to do a great job and get their crap in gear.
Why not ditch the “mixing” pot and have a separate volume for normal and bright? That’s what I do with my single input/non lead amps. I have a lot to say about these amps. Marshall should have made an actual amp from their “Origin”. A single input JTM45ish circuit with a split cathode V1, V2A cathode bypass cap(0.68 to 5uf) and 0.022uf PI coupling caps. Ditch the nonsense FX loop nobody wants from a classic Marshall and sell millions more.
It's sad that bells and whistles take precedence over carefully thought-out printed board layout, reliability, and serviceability. But I blame the buying public ~almost~ as much as the manufacturers.
The PCB was probably designed by software "AI" to optimize parts placement. That still does not excuse the Engineering, Testing, or Quality departments from doing their job. Probably uses a sweep generator with volume at noon to check gain and frequency response and never thought of setting the volume to zero with an input signal to see what would happen, because why would you use an amp at zero volume. Case of using thousands in test equipment when you can use the two free pieces of test gear that you already have attached to your head.
That explains why the Origin 20 sounds so bad. I had a combo, gave it a new 12" speaker to get some extra bass, but while sometimes it would sound nice, most of the time it sounded like crap. Then Marshall reduced the prices, so I couldn't even sell it without a significant lost. I ended up just giving it away
These amps sound great for the price point. You want more cranked plexi tones, just crank the Master and use a lower power setting. The loop even still works well when it's cranked up. i can't speak to build quality and I'll leave that to amp experts but I've owned two 20 heads, one stock and current one with some mods and I still dug the stock one just fine. FWIW I'm in my 50's and have played older Marshall's on and off for decades now. The sound difference between an Origin cranked up and a SV UK head cranked up are so small there's just no justifying the huge price difference. Plus the UK amp is using a lot of the same parts. Even against a '75 Marshall Lead and Bass head I have, where in the room you get some difference but mic'd up, with them panned it just sounds like two slightly different, non master Marshalls. Almost the same as if you had a '73 and a '75 and their tolerances and transformers exhibit the same difference.
To me it sounds like a heap of baloney. How anything can be out of phase at the imput stage? There is only one thing at that stage that has a phase which is the instrument signal. What exactly it is out of phase with? Whe all know that B+ is constant current and it has no phases whatsoever, right? Also, how can you even tell that something is out of phase without ever looking at an oscilograph?
It won't matter in the long run because of where the tubes are, it's going to cook the amp from the inside. There is a lot of reviews of similar posts about that happening and those models being unusable because of the boards melting. I don't know because I don't own one, but reading those reviews have turned me off of that line of them
@@robertw1871 I did, it doesn't sound that good and its noisy, and it had new tubes too. Also I'm a tech and know exactly what's being discussed so I'm not susceptable to marketing bs. I bought a 68 drip edge bassman that needed some work instead.
@@kbkman7742 I own it, and I’m an electronics engineer, I know a little about it… Kinda odd that they are being used for recording by quite a few people, it’s a taste thing of course, but there is nothing fundamentally wrong with the unit. It can be dialed in to sound extremely old school Marshall, that’s not for everyone and it really depends on how you’re using it… it’s not as good as some $6,000 Plexi heads for sure… I’m guessing 99% of guys aren’t using this for what it’s designed for, running full out into a 4/12… The clue is bitching about noise, my 100w is plenty noisy dimed out, why because it’s 80 year old technology that’s stupidly loud, not a soul is hearing the slight hum and hiss at 137dB of crushing power chords right? Noisy c’mom man it’s a Marshall… I’d recommend some headphones so you don’t piss mom off… You’d really hate the ‘59 100 watt Plexi, thing will wake the dead sitting still on 10….
@@ScottyBrockway Dude you just proved you don’t play and know nothing about Marshall and are fully engulfed in this guys marketing BS and I’m not even going to tell you how I know…. But I’m 100% sure you’ve never giged and I’m fairly sure you’re living in moms basement…
I owned an Origin for about 5 minutes, didn't like the sound. Sold it to a friend, they used it for a bit until it died not long after. I think I will just stick to my old Marshalls no matter how pretty they make the new ones look.
I've done the Headfirst, Jose Mods and bought a solid-state HF FX loop from Evolve. Jason shows how to set it up where the loop is always on, but it seems a shame that I can't find a place to feed to the loop right after the relay that the foot switch operates and chop the trace that would have gone on to the tube that worked with the old FX loop... so that the foot switch for the loop would still work. One of the resistors pulled in the mod would surely have been the place that cut the old FX loop's path to the tube. -Hence, my exit point after the relay might be at that point??? Anyone familiar with the HF Mod have an idea on this, or is the new routing using wiring prior to the relay making my idea impossible? I know the return from the new FX loop would still go in at the master volume.
Why has modern amp design turned into something Rube Goldberg would be proud of. I am sure the availability of cheap components and automated production techniques has a lot to do with it but for Christ's sake if it ain't broke don't break it...
My Origin 20 Head sounds massive. You just need to understand its philosophy. You need to crank the power section to get that nice overdriven à la AC/DC. So use your ears before looking at values on component….
Or buy a DSL, crank the crunch channel and have a similar sound, while also having 40+ more years worth of tones to cover. They just aren’t a good value, when there’s so many better amps in the price range.
JVM sounds like shit. Shows no difference between TOTALLY different guitar types and price points. Same "sandpaper over cardbox" type of sounds with all guitars and pickups. Awful amp!
I’ve a 50 watt version of one of these as I got it for nothing but I have four plexis I use all the time and my mate has a a massive plexi collection in my studio and I think guys that like these are just really preying there a plexi but to be honest there nothing like the real thing . Jason from headfirst amp repairs in Aussie does some great mods to these to make them a JCM 800 type tone . If you want that from these check his mods there A1 and make these useable otherwise there a lack lustre nothing sort of tone
A big part of the problem seems to be that whoever does the PCB layout isn't familiar with the issues surrounding tube amp design. With the move to bedroom players rather than live players we get more and more badly-designed and unreliable gear from ill-informed PCB designers more accustomed to laying out digital and opamp circuits which aren't as prone to these issues.
I have the Origin 50, cranked and quiet no bleed, one day I forgot to connect the speaker cabinet. The amp was on for 5 min, vol on 0 gain on 0. Noticed it and turn it off without ever playing it. Now it have this same bleed.
I have the 50 watt combo and it has no bleed like this. Possibly has a slightly different circuit or I just got lucky. I have heard these like a main cap and tube upgrade for better sound and less fizz. Just my two cents.
every time i work on the 40c i want to tear out the pcb and rebuild from standoffs. everything is wrong with those amps. from the goop conducting between traces leaking caps and lifting components its a nightmare.
Another example of Marshall chasing their tail. I understand wanting to bring more features to classic designs but at what cost. At this point I would just skip this and save up for one of their studio heads or a full sized Jubilee.
Marshall did a disservice to the brand with the origin series imho. The old adage of you get what you pay for unfortunately applies but did not have to if attention to detail was only applied to something as important to its tone which was ignored. The cheapest tube Marshall sounds cheap and that's a shame. Save up a little more and get a DSL series that sounds good and can cover pretty much any Marshall. Or get a used DSL if you can't afford a new one. Let's see if Marshall revises the board in new models. The origin series misrepresents what a real Marshall sounds like or is capable of and that makes me a little sad.
Jim Marshall is rolling in his grave yet again a great Marshall hasn't been made since 1987. I bought a pos dsl40c back in 2016 and that mistake has tought me to thoroughly research amps before I buy them and I personally thank you for the Magnatone video you did earlier this year and all your videos. Helps us make informed buying decisions. Love my Magnatone Super 15
There is a change price would be different if it was well designed, well built and using good components. For the money it is most likely better than what was available from Marshall in 1972 at that pricepoint. My quess is that crap like this keeps Marshall going out of business. I bet margin is pretty ok with this amp. Marshall also has good amps in their catalogue if one is willing to pay something decent.
I respectfully reject that argument. If guys like me with small financial resources can do board prototypes to make sure these basic Amp 101 issues aren't a problem before having real boards ordered, there's no excuse for Marshall. The same amp with a proper board layout would have cost the same. PS this is not something esoteric that should take lots of R&D to iron out. PCBs are excellent ways to keep gain stages separate and shielded from each other. They offer real advantages over older methods of construction. You just have to have an amp designer do the layout, not an electrical engineer.
@@PsionicAudio I respect you respectfully rejected my argument. It would not make much sense to have only discussions where we all agree about everything. PCB design is just one step from idea to product realisation and actual manufacturing. If every step would be done with care, I claim price would not be 400usd, it all adds up. Would that be doable or not is beside the point, point is that it does not make much sense. Why sell top notch quality for peanuts? Who would buy those esoteric designs? That would hurt their business. Actually, this is good for the consumer. If they wanna buy cheap crap where every corner is cut twice: designed by thesis worker, made somewhere where legalities don't hinder business, using cheapest possible components etc they will sell you the product. If you wanna spend more, they have products which are better in all accounts. You get to choose. 2nd product line thinking and product differentiation so often means that the actual product is the very same but without the brand/premium status/packaging. Not here, cheap crap is cheap crap :) To be fair, these products are selling, some buy these and are happy with their purchase. Some don't even know what cross-talk means or how magnetic field is capable of inducing current over air gap.
"The sound of not my problem"! Ha! I saw the way the faceplates on the Origin amps buckle around all the pots and inputs, and it didn't inspire confidence in quality.
I trust a tech's review of an amp over any user review or periodical review. I'm trying to find a Marshall that will play nice with my Strat, had my eyes on this one but ultimately your videos regarding these amps have convinced me to steer clear of the Origin 20.
Sir why would you need a shielded lead on a cable that connects 2 components INSIDE the chassis, this is not how physics works. As far as sounds bad, that’s odd nobody is saying that and mine doesn’t so it’s definitely not a design flaw, perhaps learning to use it before having 12 beers and messing with components you don’t understand would be warranted. Yours truly the electronic engineering community.
@@PsionicAudio It’s almost as dumb as having point to point wiring in nearly all vintage amps ever, I mean really, no shielding wire, what were they thinking… Happy New Year… I’ll be around to collect my award hehe 😜
I had the 20 combo which I thought wasn't too bad and had the 50 but quickly sold that. The origins actually feel cheap. The handle, the knobs etc it all feels very flimsy.
You can't knock cheap. It is a budget amp with power scaling. The brand is costing £200 and the amp £200. For that money it is good value, albeit having a few design flaws. One thing is, being built in Vietnam does NOT mean it is poor quality. Their workmanship is equal to anyone's in this model. I am gigging a 50 Origin. I use it in medium power and swapped out the crap speaker for an Eminence. It sounds great and cost a fraction of other amps I own. I looks clean on stage and is as loud as anything I have gigged. I paid £365 for mine + £100 for speaker so less than the Blackstar equivalent. To me that is what this is up against. You want better then spend more and buy vintage.
I wasn't excited to see these amps announced. They looked cheap and bursting with a poorly designed pcb issues. Maybe by revision E they'll be worth buying second hand
I briefly had an Origin 50 about a year ago. Just seemed cheap all around, which was a shame because the overdriven tones were pretty killer. Very noisy...
I think a lot of amp companies are putting too many channels, buttons, knobs, switches, jacks, and features into their amps. It makes for a really crowded and complicated amp. With more possibilities of things going wrong.
I remember a Jim Marshall interview when he was asked about the complicated acoustical math involved in determining cabinet size and dimensions on his 4x12 units, he just said it was the the smallest box he could fit four twelve inch speakers in.
I also remember Jim saying in an interview: As you start adding more features to a guitar amp, the amp starts to lose something. I'm assuming he was referring to either tone, resonance, or even touch sensitivity. Perhaps a little of all 3. I'm not saying he was right in saying that, but I tend to believe he was onto something, at least back then. As the the old saying goes: sometimes less is more.
@@howabouthetruth2157 I agree, amps don't need altimeters or curb feelers...
Lolol! That was funny. That's why I paid the extra money and bought a Friedman Smallbox: hand wired and no extra gadgets and gizmos, just pure tone.
An unfortunate sinking of a long revered company since James Marshall's death.This episode should be forwarded to Marshall as evidentiary proof that this design is inexcusably flawed.
I own the 20c and I got compliments from our sound lady on the tone last gig. Just got to tweak it properly.
Indeed , Im completely happy with my 20 c & have experienced ZERO problems - owned it since 4 years ! . Experimenting with different Tubes - Speakers can make a huge difference in Volume & TONE too !
I have the Origin 20 combo, mine is quiet as a mouse when cranked up, you wouldn't even know its on until you strum a note and get blown away. I run mine into 2 4x12 cabs btw.
...and that is the sound of not my problem! love it! I have an origin 5 that I just had "fixed" for $100 and the problem came back almost immediately. Are these things just a joke? Anyway, my O5 has a volume drop issue and I don't think the tech did anywhere near the level of investigating you did. I.e. trying to find the root of the problem. Just change a part that makes it work for a minute then hand back to customer. You're awesome; keep these vids coming! Hoping more techs watch these and see what it takes to do a great job and get their crap in gear.
Why not ditch the “mixing” pot and have a separate volume for normal and bright? That’s what I do with my single input/non lead amps.
I have a lot to say about these amps. Marshall should have made an actual amp from their “Origin”. A single input JTM45ish circuit with a split cathode V1, V2A cathode bypass cap(0.68 to 5uf) and 0.022uf PI coupling caps.
Ditch the nonsense FX loop nobody wants from a classic Marshall and sell millions more.
It's sad that bells and whistles take precedence over carefully thought-out printed board layout, reliability, and serviceability. But I blame the buying public ~almost~ as much as the manufacturers.
The PCB was probably designed by software "AI" to optimize parts placement. That still does not excuse the Engineering, Testing, or Quality departments from doing their job. Probably uses a sweep generator with volume at noon to check gain and frequency response and never thought of setting the volume to zero with an input signal to see what would happen, because why would you use an amp at zero volume. Case of using thousands in test equipment when you can use the two free pieces of test gear that you already have attached to your head.
"Alright, it's worse than I thought"... Hilarious 🤣
That explains why the Origin 20 sounds so bad. I had a combo, gave it a new 12" speaker to get some extra bass, but while sometimes it would sound nice, most of the time it sounded like crap. Then Marshall reduced the prices, so I couldn't even sell it without a significant lost. I ended up just giving it away
I don’t know. I have an early issue of one of these, and it’s great, sorry.
These amps sound great for the price point. You want more cranked plexi tones, just crank the Master and use a lower power setting. The loop even still works well when it's cranked up. i can't speak to build quality and I'll leave that to amp experts but I've owned two 20 heads, one stock and current one with some mods and I still dug the stock one just fine. FWIW I'm in my 50's and have played older Marshall's on and off for decades now. The sound difference between an Origin cranked up and a SV UK head cranked up are so small there's just no justifying the huge price difference. Plus the UK amp is using a lot of the same parts. Even against a '75 Marshall Lead and Bass head I have, where in the room you get some difference but mic'd up, with them panned it just sounds like two slightly different, non master Marshalls. Almost the same as if you had a '73 and a '75 and their tolerances and transformers exhibit the same difference.
To me it sounds like a heap of baloney. How anything can be out of phase at the imput stage? There is only one thing at that stage that has a phase which is the instrument signal. What exactly it is out of phase with? Whe all know that B+ is constant current and it has no phases whatsoever, right? Also, how can you even tell that something is out of phase without ever looking at an oscilograph?
It won't matter in the long run because of where the tubes are, it's going to cook the amp from the inside. There is a lot of reviews of similar posts about that happening and those models being unusable because of the boards melting. I don't know because I don't own one, but reading those reviews have turned me off of that line of them
Sounds like ass ... SAY NO MORE!!!
Nice vid. Would love to see all Marshall studio amps reviewed, esp. the JCM800/SC20!
"That is the sound of not my problem" I like that.
Cured me of picking one of these up.
They are great man don’t listen to this BS… go try one and get back to us…
@@robertw1871 BS? Maybe if you don't understand what's being discussed
@@robertw1871 I did, it doesn't sound that good and its noisy, and it had new tubes too. Also I'm a tech and know exactly what's being discussed so I'm not susceptable to marketing bs. I bought a 68 drip edge bassman that needed some work instead.
@@kbkman7742 I own it, and I’m an electronics engineer, I know a little about it… Kinda odd that they are being used for recording by quite a few people, it’s a taste thing of course, but there is nothing fundamentally wrong with the unit. It can be dialed in to sound extremely old school Marshall, that’s not for everyone and it really depends on how you’re using it… it’s not as good as some $6,000 Plexi heads for sure… I’m guessing 99% of guys aren’t using this for what it’s designed for, running full out into a 4/12… The clue is bitching about noise, my 100w is plenty noisy dimed out, why because it’s 80 year old technology that’s stupidly loud, not a soul is hearing the slight hum and hiss at 137dB of crushing power chords right? Noisy c’mom man it’s a Marshall… I’d recommend some headphones so you don’t piss mom off… You’d really hate the ‘59 100 watt Plexi, thing will wake the dead sitting still on 10….
@@ScottyBrockway Dude you just proved you don’t play and know nothing about Marshall and are fully engulfed in this guys marketing BS and I’m not even going to tell you how I know…. But I’m 100% sure you’ve never giged and I’m fairly sure you’re living in moms basement…
I owned an Origin for about 5 minutes, didn't like the sound. Sold it to a friend, they used it for a bit until it died not long after. I think I will just stick to my old Marshalls no matter how pretty they make the new ones look.
I've done the Headfirst, Jose Mods and bought a solid-state HF FX loop from Evolve. Jason shows how to set it up where the loop is always on, but it seems a shame that I can't find a place to feed to the loop right after the relay that the foot switch operates and chop the trace that would have gone on to the tube that worked with the old FX loop... so that the foot switch for the loop would still work. One of the resistors pulled in the mod would surely have been the place that cut the old FX loop's path to the tube. -Hence, my exit point after the relay might be at that point??? Anyone familiar with the HF Mod have an idea on this, or is the new routing using wiring prior to the relay making my idea impossible? I know the return from the new FX loop would still go in at the master volume.
No wonder GC has them on clearance right now ($150 off regular price).
I had one of these. Sounded great through a 4x12. At 500db.
Sadly not much use for anything else.
My first and last Marshall amplifier.
Why has modern amp design turned into something Rube Goldberg would be proud of. I am sure the availability of cheap components and automated production techniques has a lot to do with it but for Christ's sake if it ain't broke don't break it...
Cant shine a turd if the turd is diarrhea.
My Origin 20 Head sounds massive. You just need to understand its philosophy. You need to crank the power section to get that nice overdriven à la AC/DC. So use your ears before looking at values on component….
Or buy a DSL, crank the crunch channel and have a similar sound, while also having 40+ more years worth of tones to cover. They just aren’t a good value, when there’s so many better amps in the price range.
Thanks...I find this very interesting as I have the Marshall origin 50.
With the preamp volume#1 turned all the way down to zero how is the audio signal bleeding off to the channel#2?
The proximity of certain components can allow for parasitic capacitance, providing a path for signal bleed.
@@p.nieceannedballs I'm not sure if the design is that bad that is has major parasitic issues or PCB traces crosstalking or other reasons?
Sigh. That's a little depressing.
Just got a new jvm head...hope it's designed better but dont have the courage to ask :(
JVM sounds like shit. Shows no difference between TOTALLY different guitar types and price points. Same "sandpaper over cardbox" type of sounds with all guitars and pickups. Awful amp!
Sounds like a Blackstar, lol.
Great content!
Somebody knows if can I run this amp without speaker? I mean, just plug DI without a speaker load.
Wow I almost bought this amp thanks for the warning. I’ve owned a 50 watt plexi 1987x but was going to get this fo practicing at home, glad I didn’t!
I’ve a 50 watt version of one of these as I got it for nothing but I have four plexis I use all the time and my mate has a a massive plexi collection in my studio and I think guys that like these are just really preying there a plexi but to be honest there nothing like the real thing . Jason from headfirst amp repairs in Aussie does some great mods to these to make them a JCM 800 type tone . If you want that from these check his mods there A1 and make these useable otherwise there a lack lustre nothing sort of tone
A big part of the problem seems to be that whoever does the PCB layout isn't familiar with the issues surrounding tube amp design. With the move to bedroom players rather than live players we get more and more badly-designed and unreliable gear from ill-informed PCB designers more accustomed to laying out digital and opamp circuits which aren't as prone to these issues.
I have the Origin 50, cranked and quiet no bleed, one day I forgot to connect the speaker cabinet. The amp was on for 5 min, vol on 0 gain on 0. Noticed it and turn it off without ever playing it. Now it have this same bleed.
I have the 50 watt combo and it has no bleed like this. Possibly has a slightly different circuit or I just got lucky. I have heard these like a main cap and tube upgrade for better sound and less fizz. Just my two cents.
every time i work on the 40c i want to tear out the pcb and rebuild from standoffs. everything is wrong with those amps. from the goop conducting between traces leaking caps and lifting components its a nightmare.
Schematic, signal generator, and oscilloscope would make the diagnosis less frustrating.
I have an OR50H. Magnificent paltform for pedals. Namely overdrive. Not so good on its own.
This crap is why so many are learning to build their own amps with turret boards.
I saw the tilt knob on the faceplate and thought if it actually made the amp lean it would be way better than whatever the fuck it does...
Another example of Marshall chasing their tail. I understand wanting to bring more features to classic designs but at what cost. At this point I would just skip this and save up for one of their studio heads or a full sized Jubilee.
Skip the Studio series if you’re in North America. Crazy markup for low quality.
Marshall did a disservice to the brand with the origin series imho. The old adage of you get what you pay for unfortunately applies but did not have to if attention to detail was only applied to something as important to its tone which was ignored. The cheapest tube Marshall sounds cheap and that's a shame. Save up a little more and get a DSL series that sounds good and can cover pretty much any Marshall. Or get a used DSL if you can't afford a new one. Let's see if Marshall revises the board in new models. The origin series misrepresents what a real Marshall sounds like or is capable of and that makes me a little sad.
But that's the entire point of all so-called cheap Marshalls. They want the uninitiated to buy it realize it sounds bad then buy the real thing
Amps that use cell phone parts can't expect much I guess
I enjoyed this video. Brutally honest assessment.
Dr.Z/Made in Cleveland Ohio.Hand wired turret boards.
And lots of other problems. But at least they're different problems.
Jim Marshall is rolling in his grave yet again a great Marshall hasn't been made since 1987. I bought a pos dsl40c back in 2016 and that mistake has tought me to thoroughly research amps before I buy them and I personally thank you for the Magnatone video you did earlier this year and all your videos. Helps us make informed buying decisions. Love my Magnatone Super 15
There is a change price would be different if it was well designed, well built and using good components. For the money it is most likely better than what was available from Marshall in 1972 at that pricepoint. My quess is that crap like this keeps Marshall going out of business. I bet margin is pretty ok with this amp. Marshall also has good amps in their catalogue if one is willing to pay something decent.
I respectfully reject that argument.
If guys like me with small financial resources can do board prototypes to make sure these basic Amp 101 issues aren't a problem before having real boards ordered, there's no excuse for Marshall. The same amp with a proper board layout would have cost the same.
PS this is not something esoteric that should take lots of R&D to iron out. PCBs are excellent ways to keep gain stages separate and shielded from each other. They offer real advantages over older methods of construction.
You just have to have an amp designer do the layout, not an electrical engineer.
@@PsionicAudio I respect you respectfully rejected my argument. It would not make much sense to have only discussions where we all agree about everything. PCB design is just one step from idea to product realisation and actual manufacturing.
If every step would be done with care, I claim price would not be 400usd, it all adds up. Would that be doable or not is beside the point, point is that it does not make much sense. Why sell top notch quality for peanuts? Who would buy those esoteric designs? That would hurt their business.
Actually, this is good for the consumer. If they wanna buy cheap crap where every corner is cut twice: designed by thesis worker, made somewhere where legalities don't hinder business, using cheapest possible components etc they will sell you the product. If you wanna spend more, they have products which are better in all accounts. You get to choose. 2nd product line thinking and product differentiation so often means that the actual product is the very same but without the brand/premium status/packaging. Not here, cheap crap is cheap crap :) To be fair, these products are selling, some buy these and are happy with their purchase. Some don't even know what cross-talk means or how magnetic field is capable of inducing current over air gap.
"The sound of not my problem"! Ha! I saw the way the faceplates on the Origin amps buckle around all the pots and inputs, and it didn't inspire confidence in quality.
I owned a used jtm 60 which was designed with the pcb boards and it was nothing but problems, I basically gave it away . . .
Same story here!
And here..
😔
Origin 50H have same issue(s) ?
I haven't had one on the bench, so I don't know.
@@PsionicAudio ok thx, fingers crossed!
I trust a tech's review of an amp over any user review or periodical review. I'm trying to find a Marshall that will play nice with my Strat, had my eyes on this one but ultimately your videos regarding these amps have convinced me to steer clear of the Origin 20.
Check out the prs hdrx 20
Check out UK guitarist Dave Simpsons review of the Origin 20H plus others. Most say the amps sound great without any mods.
Sir why would you need a shielded lead on a cable that connects 2 components INSIDE the chassis, this is not how physics works. As far as sounds bad, that’s odd nobody is saying that and mine doesn’t so it’s definitely not a design flaw, perhaps learning to use it before having 12 beers and messing with components you don’t understand would be warranted. Yours truly the electronic engineering community.
You win! You squeaked in right before the contest ended!
Everyone congratulate The Dumbest Comment of 2021!!!
@@PsionicAudio It’s almost as dumb as having point to point wiring in nearly all vintage amps ever, I mean really, no shielding wire, what were they thinking… Happy New Year… I’ll be around to collect my award hehe 😜
...what
@@PsionicAudio he's the amp designer. Sir you just touched a nerve .
I had the 20 combo which I thought wasn't too bad and had the 50 but quickly sold that.
The origins actually feel cheap. The handle, the knobs etc it all feels very flimsy.
You can't knock cheap. It is a budget amp with power scaling. The brand is costing £200 and the amp £200. For that money it is good value, albeit having a few design flaws. One thing is, being built in Vietnam does NOT mean it is poor quality. Their workmanship is equal to anyone's in this model.
I am gigging a 50 Origin. I use it in medium power and swapped out the crap speaker for an Eminence.
It sounds great and cost a fraction of other amps I own. I looks clean on stage and is as loud as anything I have gigged. I paid £365 for mine + £100 for speaker so less than the Blackstar equivalent. To me that is what this is up against. You want better then spend more and buy vintage.
Yes, Made In Vietnam is exactly the same as Made In Germany, lol
I wasn't excited to see these amps announced. They looked cheap and bursting with a poorly designed pcb issues. Maybe by revision E they'll be worth buying second hand
Maybe for $20
I briefly had an Origin 50 about a year ago. Just seemed cheap all around, which was a shame because the overdriven tones were pretty killer. Very noisy...