I back off the flow rate to 95% when printing PETG or PCTG and print on the cooler side, especially if your melt zone is longer than a standard V6. Beautiful prints with no more nozzle boogers. I also print frames with the mag well down. This makes the internals come out perfect and the large underside areas that are supported come clean easily.
Very Nice ! I just placed an order with 3D Fuel myself yesterday for a bunch of their PCTG in different colors. I wanted something more durable and UV resistant and it looks perfect for the pew pews as well.
Wow, Nice material , but talk about expensive! Tullomer at $550.00 a KG Its going to be a long road for that to come down to anything close to viable price per KG. Might as well buy a chunk of 6061 and have it milled it would be more cost effective on this lower frame.
Funny I saw this, I'm making a web comic of a foreigner that joins the Japanese mafia and one of the scandals he gets into is 3D printing Guns for the black market. I was doing research on the topic so I can make it accurate in my web comic and clicked on this video, two of a kind here !!!! lol
I actually did try PETG-CF on an AR15 build and it busted in half on the first shot. Man that stuff sure prints out real pretty though. Anyway I posted the video footage of that experiment here on youtube and they gave me a warning and took it down just a few weeks ago. Actually I have used CF nylons on gun lowers and it seems to be great. I have an AR and a g19 clone made of PA-12. Just such a pain to print with because its prone to warp and so touchy about moisture. Also nylons have creep issues which of course renders a gun inoperable after some time.
@@ObservantSeedsower decrease your layer height I used .18 vs .20 and reduce cooling to get better layer adhesion. When it is printed this way it makes it very strong. My PPA-CF prints are a pain in the ass because they need a lot of fine dremel work for clearances.
Just the video I was looking for. I'm giving PCTG a go on my projects and wanted to know how this material performed for you over time. How long did it remain useable? Did it exhibit any cracking or other defects over time? Are you still using this filament for your projects? If not, what filament have you moved on to? TIA for some feedback.
So yes it did crack and not long after I posted this video. A few days after posting this video I took that same gun down on my range and put a 33 round mag through and when came to the bottom I looked at the gun and it was cracked around the barrel catch. Still shootable but not ideal. LOL but i love that color so much I imediately replaced it. Can't wait for first chance to go out and shoot that one till it breaks.😅 Lately I have been printing with this new material they are useing to make airless basketballs. It's called PLA-HF. Man that stuff is indestructable. But I suspect it will be to flexible for firearms. I will try it anyway. But I hope they come out with a version that has CF in it. That should give it the extra stiffness we need.
Thanks for the report. I heard good things about PET-CF which is just barely printable on 300C non-enclosed machines; however, the surface finish it produced for me was WAY to rough. I could've made some mistakes in the slicer settings or the machine setup, so perhaps I'll circle back to this at some point and try again. If the PCTG ends up destroying itself I'll probably revert to the best PLA I can find in order to gain some actual range experience with these poly frames and lowers. I don't remember the color you used but if it's the OD green I agree - I have this and the color is perfect! I also reduced the extrusion multiplier to 0.95 to eliminate the PCTG blobs.
I assume the purple frame is made from pla. Hard to tell but it appears your rails are warped. Once of the downsides of PLA its low tolerance for temperature changes. For this and strength reasons Im seeking something better. Pet-Cf so far seems very promising, I'll know soon. i am curious how the PCTG works for you. Cant wait to see it.
What no elk and bed temp did you end up needing? I have tried it at 260° and I assumed the stringy buggery stuff was because I needed more heat. However I need firmware to get more heat out of my upgraded hot end and that is seeming to be a real issue. Any help would be appreciated.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I back off the flow rate to 95% when printing PETG or PCTG and print on the cooler side, especially if your melt zone is longer than a standard V6. Beautiful prints with no more nozzle boogers. I also print frames with the mag well down. This makes the internals come out perfect and the large underside areas that are supported come clean easily.
Very Nice ! I just placed an order with 3D Fuel myself yesterday for a bunch of their PCTG in different colors. I wanted something more durable and UV resistant and it looks perfect for the pew pews as well.
Its insanely expensive at the moment but I think Tullomer will be the future
Wow, Nice material , but talk about expensive! Tullomer at $550.00 a KG Its going to be a long road for that to come down to anything close to viable price per KG. Might as well buy a chunk of 6061 and have it milled it would be more cost effective on this lower frame.
@PatriotPaulUSA yeah it's expensive currently but they are saying that they should have the price to go down over time as this material is very new.
I appreciate how thorough you are and enjoyed this very much!
This is a nice design! I occasionally draw guns in my manga, so I'll use these as a reference once is a while. ^^
Funny I saw this, I'm making a web comic of a foreigner that joins the Japanese mafia and one of the scandals he gets into is 3D printing Guns for the black market. I was doing research on the topic so I can make it accurate in my web comic and clicked on this video, two of a kind here !!!! lol
@@leanmeanmememachine323 Hah! Nice! ^^
You should try PETG-CF and PPA-CF. The PPA-CF is much harder to finish but is super strong.
I actually did try PETG-CF on an AR15 build and it busted in half on the first shot. Man that stuff sure prints out real pretty though. Anyway I posted the video footage of that experiment here on youtube and they gave me a warning and took it down just a few weeks ago. Actually I have used CF nylons on gun lowers and it seems to be great. I have an AR and a g19 clone made of PA-12. Just such a pain to print with because its prone to warp and so touchy about moisture. Also nylons have creep issues which of course renders a gun inoperable after some time.
@@ObservantSeedsower decrease your layer height I used .18 vs .20 and reduce cooling to get better layer adhesion. When it is printed this way it makes it very strong. My PPA-CF prints are a pain in the ass because they need a lot of fine dremel work for clearances.
@@donovanmcmullin8495 It actually broke across the layers so it wasn't about layer adhesion. That is good advice though. thanks.
Just the video I was looking for. I'm giving PCTG a go on my projects and wanted to know how this material performed for you over time. How long did it remain useable? Did it exhibit any cracking or other defects over time? Are you still using this filament for your projects? If not, what filament have you moved on to? TIA for some feedback.
So yes it did crack and not long after I posted this video. A few days after posting this video I took that same gun down on my range and put a 33 round mag through and when came to the bottom I looked at the gun and it was cracked around the barrel catch. Still shootable but not ideal. LOL but i love that color so much I imediately replaced it. Can't wait for first chance to go out and shoot that one till it breaks.😅 Lately I have been printing with this new material they are useing to make airless basketballs. It's called PLA-HF. Man that stuff is indestructable. But I suspect it will be to flexible for firearms. I will try it anyway. But I hope they come out with a version that has CF in it. That should give it the extra stiffness we need.
Thanks for the report. I heard good things about PET-CF which is just barely printable on 300C non-enclosed machines; however, the surface finish it produced for me was WAY to rough. I could've made some mistakes in the slicer settings or the machine setup, so perhaps I'll circle back to this at some point and try again. If the PCTG ends up destroying itself I'll probably revert to the best PLA I can find in order to gain some actual range experience with these poly frames and lowers. I don't remember the color you used but if it's the OD green I agree - I have this and the color is perfect! I also reduced the extrusion multiplier to 0.95 to eliminate the PCTG blobs.
I assume the purple frame is made from pla. Hard to tell but it appears your rails are warped. Once of the downsides of PLA its low tolerance for temperature changes. For this and strength reasons Im seeking something better. Pet-Cf so far seems very promising, I'll know soon. i am curious how the PCTG works for you. Cant wait to see it.
What no elk and bed temp did you end up needing? I have tried it at 260° and I assumed the stringy buggery stuff was because I needed more heat. However I need firmware to get more heat out of my upgraded hot end and that is seeming to be a real issue. Any help would be appreciated.
Nice "Art Work"
dry filaments before printing
ua-cam.com/video/e55lX6HIcRQ/v-deo.html PETGvsPCTG very informative.