**A quick note with regards to camber and pressure adjustments. It can be a moving target because they effect each other to a certain degree. Its best to work on them at the same time and it can be a moving target. Eventually you will get dialed in.**
Great video!! I'm so happy I found these videos. FINALLY setup videos that make sense and are not 3 hours long with 90% of the video being about details the average joe doesn't care about. Every AMS 2 owner should be subscribed to you man. You've single handedly raised my interest and love of this game. I'm now playing it even more than ACC right now and having a blast.
One of the best most comprehensive videos I've seen covering set up. Straight to the point. You helped me learn alot of what I was avoiding to learn in other sims. I appreciate AMS2 for getting me off my bum to learn it. As much as I appreciation your videos for helping this learning process
Always nice to get more tips on setups. I didn't know that in AMS2 there are no optimal tire pressures (I was searching for this), so thank you for pointing this out!
Yeah, its a little strange. I wouldn’t be surprised if they change pressure on screen to suit the optimal contact patch, but the concept will be the same.
Brilliant to see this series start. Your presentation is considered and clear too which is a huge help for those of us that can get a little overwhelmed by all of this. Looking forward to the follow ups very much. Keep up the good work and many thanks for the work you’ve put in already.
Finally someone has come up with this, really appreciate your enthusiasm. Something not clear for me is in 7:21 shouldn't we increase bar to heat tires less and decrease it to heat more? as far as my understdandings you recommend opposite.
With a too low pressure, the outsides of the tire heats up more compared to the inside. With a too high pressure, the inside of the tire heats up more than the outside.
When you change pressures the IM&Os for all parts of the tire will change. You have to tinker here tinker there. You increase the pressure to warm the “M”. (The middle temperature of the IMO.).
@Steelcast27 , personally i have no real desire to learn how to create my own setups, i normally take a setup from someone who knows what they are doing and slight tweaks from there. Your sets so far feel really nice to me, great to have a voice in there now too :) Keep it up your content is very good.
Thats fair. One thing I would be wary of in your case is that a TT setup might not be optimal for racing. Its easier to adapt a good racing setup for TT. Not the other way around. Most TT builds are just tweeks from default too. TT setups don’t have to concerned with excessive wear or tire temps.
Very nice thank you. I have a question... You talk about inside tire temp and outside tire temp, Does it go inside to outside on both left and right for the hud? 80c 80c 80c, first being inside and last being outside? Nevermind, you just answered it in your video. I-M-O
This is a good video, but I think you could've also elaborated a little on the tire wear aspect of the setup, specially in terms of trade-offs like tire pressure and camber and how those affect wear. I mean I know you wanted to keep things simple and you may do that later in a separate video, but I thought adding it here as a sidenote wouldn't have hurt. Still good resource tho!
Good point. Optimal camber and pressure usually yields optimal wear. The biggest determiner of wear are lockups and scrubbing while graining or blistering.
Hey. Please could you do a set up video for the 911 RSR GTE based on the latest update and content? Love that car and want to learn how to set that bad boy up 🤘🏻
Great work as always Sir! I’m noticing the Porsche & Mercedes GT1s seem to get more oversteery after 3-4 laps. If you happen to be finding similar behavior, can you maybe address this whenever you get around to GT1-specific videos?
I'll assume you are using defaults? If so, likely due to the rear tires giving out. The tire model is VERY generous for 1 or two laps. Thats why we can get away with pushing for say a TT without proper cambering or pressures or overall balance for that matter. Its a HUGE false positive. The description of my vids will always have a schedule and I am currently working on GT1 projects. And YES, the GT1s in particular are harsh on the rears, even with a proper setup! so I can only image what its like running 3+ laps on defaults.
@@Steelcast27 Thanks for the reply. Yep, essentially defaults on my attempts with the GT1s. Just shortening the gears, and small tweaks to the brake balance and/or pressure. The temps on the rears seem to end up about +8 to +10c compared to the fronts after 4 laps or so which is what I thought could be causing the oversteer. The I|M|O values on the rears all remain the same relative to each other though and in check. Just the numbers for all three readings go up by 8-10c compared to the fronts. Also, the pressure values remain essentially the same as the fronts which really doesn’t make sense to me if the temps have gone up by 8-10 degrees.
Don't worry about where the pressure ends up in bar or psi relative to tire temps, so long as the IMO is good. Its just numbers on the screen for now. probably will be fixed at some point by Reiza. During the course of a lap the temps will rise and fall for the IMO as well. You are actually looking for the average IMO here AFTER everything is stable (it takes about 3 laps) . As far as the rears heating up. MAX MAX temp is 104c over that and you're getting into spin city. So you need to change your driving style to reduce heat in the rears OR risk the spin. Closing the rear ducts can ony do so much. As far as the heat in the rears climbing uncontrollably, that's a problem with the setup that I cannot really fix in chat. Essentially, the rears are slipping too much and you need to figure out when and where and what adjustments to make to stop it. My mechanical grip (tab 2) tutorial should be ready by Jan 23rd. I wish I could push content out faster than than, but Im on a pretty severe sleep deficit as is. :)
The energy that heats the tires is based on friction and the physical stretching of the rubber. Its not all about pressure. You have to work the tires as well. If you hear the tires working thats good. Soften the pressures and keep it on its limit and you should generate more heat since the contact patch is larger.
Great Stuff! I have a question on the "Telemetry HUD that you switch on at the 4-minute mark. How do you do that? Does it come with AMS2? or is it a program you have to add? could you make a video on it/or if you have done so - can you direct me to it. Thanks for you Videos they really help. - update, I found it! again, thanks for your site!
Thank you for this as I don't know anything about tuning the cars. Just have a question because I'm getting confused with where the inside and outside part of the tire is, from the telemetry. Could you tell me which part is the outside temp(or inside temp) of the tire referring with the spring/brakes in the picture? I'm assuming the outside temp is where the brakes are drawn in the pkcture but then it always has the warmer temps between the two.
Hi Mike, the temps on the telemetry HUD are exactly as they appear on the car looking from the top down. Front Left = OMI - IMO = Front Right Rear Left = OMI - IMO = Rear Right
Why make a seven-degree spread on the front tires when a better contact patch indicates a 2-degree spread on the tire at the end of a long straight when they tires are not deformed, this also ensure that the ware rate is even on all four tires? Your set up will eat up tires, and defeat the purpose of adjusting caster and camber.
ive been trying to apply this theory for tyres in assetto corsa In assetto corsa my tyres are a healthy green glow at 110 and a bluey green between 95-105 Should i go with the color or with the fact sheet. Also how can i drop the temperatures? I know i can change camber angles and tyre pressure but i cant get anywhere near 85 to 90 degrees with those settings unless i use a different compound but again they are blue if i do that
Since the last patch, I've had to use really extreme cambers to get my rear IMOs up. Should I just aim for something a little lower now, like 3C difference max?
Yeah, 3c IMO is perfectly fine for a GT style car. In fact its probably a better benchmark nowadays. It you are around 3c you can start adjusting camber for feel.
Hello Steelcast27 Can you tell us when is it best to check tyre temperatures I always do it on the home straight after completing the lap, I then just Castor angles accordingly, this could be wrong perhaps you can enlighten me and others.
I could not get this to work on the bt44, even on max camber possible Tyre temps are still quite even across the tyres (within 2-3 deg c on most tyres). I get the feeling the stock setups are way off on some carsin AMS2. I compared AMS2 to RF2 for the BT44 the AMS 2 version handles a lot worse IMHO, its much more twitchy on stock setup, I can't get it close to RF2 version (but i'm still a setup nube)
These are just goals, some cars like retro F1s will not reach the camber goals in particular, just by the nature of how the cars work. And yes, the default setups aren't great.
It should be closer, yeah. But it depends on how the car feels for you really. You might need to make minor adjustments based on the specific track and/or track conditions.
The acronym IMO is interchangeable with “OMI” depending on the way you look at it. Looking at the HUD. The Left front is OMI. Right front IMO. Left rear is OMI, Right rear is IMO.
"Tyres spelt with a y" - you mean, the correct way 😋 Any other spelling would just be - wait for it - tiring. You wouldn't want to get tired, while talking about tyres!
Using the telemetry HUD/UI, the IMOs are laid out exactly like they are on the track, above each of the wheels. Technically, reading the screen, the left side tires are OMI.
Assuming your not racing on an oval circuit, if your tyre temps are not even across the tyre then your camber settings are all wrong! NO way do you want IMO temps of 85 87 90 for example.
What matters here is the cornering contact patch for the loaded tire. The tire IMO should be even. *while cornering*. The inner temps being slightly higher is simply a natural consequence of driving in a straight line. For example. If the car is in a constant state of turn, yes the outside tire would have an even IMO. Say you camber the car perfectly under that circumstance. Nice and even. Then introduce a straight. The outer edge will cool giving you a temp difference across the tire.
WOW !!!!! Thankyou so much, the best vid I've seen by far on breaking down everything in an easy to understand manner, now I know when/why to adjust that others have never been able to explain.
Best AMS2 car setup tutorial so far!
**A quick note with regards to camber and pressure adjustments. It can be a moving target because they effect each other to a certain degree. Its best to work on them at the same time and it can be a moving target. Eventually you will get dialed in.**
This has been the best explanation on setups. I am going to watch the rest of your vids. Thank you for your time and effort. Excellent job.
Great video!! I'm so happy I found these videos. FINALLY setup videos that make sense and are not 3 hours long with 90% of the video being about details the average joe doesn't care about. Every AMS 2 owner should be subscribed to you man. You've single handedly raised my interest and love of this game. I'm now playing it even more than ACC right now and having a blast.
Awesome!!!
One of the best most comprehensive videos I've seen covering set up. Straight to the point. You helped me learn alot of what I was avoiding to learn in other sims. I appreciate AMS2 for getting me off my bum to learn it. As much as I appreciation your videos for helping this learning process
Always nice to get more tips on setups. I didn't know that in AMS2 there are no optimal tire pressures (I was searching for this), so thank you for pointing this out!
Yeah, its a little strange. I wouldn’t be surprised if they change pressure on screen to suit the optimal contact patch, but the concept will be the same.
Great guide, well explained, and love how you added in where it differs from real life. Thanks! On to part two.
Brilliant to see this series start. Your presentation is considered and clear too which is a huge help for those of us that can get a little overwhelmed by all of this. Looking forward to the follow ups very much. Keep up the good work and many thanks for the work you’ve put in already.
Thank you! Part two is coming together nicely. Im crossing my fingers that it will turn out the same way for you.
for someone who has never really been into cars but loves Sim Racing this is a wealth of information
I've never seen such a good list of lessons since Viperconcept's videos. I'm definitely watching all of them.
Hey thanks! More to come!
This is what I need. Normal I dont change anything cuz I have no idea what the results must be. Thank you I set this in my favourites.
Favorites with a “u”! Glad to help!
I could watch these kind of videos all day long. Thank you!
Haha thanks!
Thanks! Good to understand how things work in AMS 2. The recap at the end is a good idea
Glad it was helpful!
Thank Steel This was very helpful.
Awesome mate can’t wait for the next episode...
We may need some extra coffee for the next one.
Thank-you for this 3 years later lol 😂 getting my Ams2 legs 😎
excellent insight - thankyou i have been looking for this sort of tutorial .. subscribed!
I'm glad you found it and glad to help!
Great presentation, content and graphics!
Thanks Michael!
This awesome! Cannot wait to dive into the other setup videos. Thanks for doing this!
This is what makes a sim a sim to me. Tinkering with these things makes all the difference.
Truly great video. Thanks for demystifying.
Thanks Mark. No problem.
This is great, thank you!!
My pleasure!
Great content, simply put and easy to feel the difference on track, thanks buddy
Glad you liked it!
Just getting Into ams2 this was brilliant, very informative, thanks
Finally someone has come up with this, really appreciate your enthusiasm. Something not clear for me is in 7:21 shouldn't we increase bar to heat tires less and decrease it to heat more? as far as my understdandings you recommend opposite.
When you lower the pressure all the force is on a lower contact patch, so it gets hotter quicker, less pressure = the opossite
With a too low pressure, the outsides of the tire heats up more compared to the inside. With a too high pressure, the inside of the tire heats up more than the outside.
When you change pressures the IM&Os for all parts of the tire will change. You have to tinker here tinker there. You increase the pressure to warm the “M”. (The middle temperature of the IMO.).
Awesome stuff, just awesome !!! 👍
Outstanding Thank you
Love your videos, thanks for content!
You got it, I hope it helps!
@Steelcast27 , personally i have no real desire to learn how to create my own setups, i normally take a setup from someone who knows what they are doing and slight tweaks from there.
Your sets so far feel really nice to me, great to have a voice in there now too :)
Keep it up your content is very good.
Thats fair. One thing I would be wary of in your case is that a TT setup might not be optimal for racing. Its easier to adapt a good racing setup for TT. Not the other way around. Most TT builds are just tweeks from default too. TT setups don’t have to concerned with excessive wear or tire temps.
Great job - thx!
Nice one mate.
Great stuff!
Very nice thank you. I have a question... You talk about inside tire temp and outside tire temp, Does it go inside to outside on both left and right for the hud? 80c 80c 80c, first being inside and last being outside?
Nevermind, you just answered it in your video. I-M-O
thank youu!!!!!!
You are a fucking legend for noobies to cars like me. Thanks
This is a good video, but I think you could've also elaborated a little on the tire wear aspect of the setup, specially in terms of trade-offs like tire pressure and camber and how those affect wear. I mean I know you wanted to keep things simple and you may do that later in a separate video, but I thought adding it here as a sidenote wouldn't have hurt. Still good resource tho!
Good point. Optimal camber and pressure usually yields optimal wear. The biggest determiner of wear are lockups and scrubbing while graining or blistering.
Hey. Please could you do a set up video for the 911 RSR GTE based on the latest update and content? Love that car and want to learn how to set that bad boy up 🤘🏻
Its done. Custom default series ep 12.
It's happening ❤️!!!
We are entering the matrix my friend.
Thank you!
You’re welcome!
Thanks!!
Great work as always Sir!
I’m noticing the Porsche & Mercedes GT1s seem to get more oversteery after 3-4 laps. If you happen to be finding similar behavior, can you maybe address this whenever you get around to GT1-specific videos?
I'll assume you are using defaults? If so, likely due to the rear tires giving out. The tire model is VERY generous for 1 or two laps. Thats why we can get away with pushing for say a TT without proper cambering or pressures or overall balance for that matter. Its a HUGE false positive. The description of my vids will always have a schedule and I am currently working on GT1 projects. And YES, the GT1s in particular are harsh on the rears, even with a proper setup! so I can only image what its like running 3+ laps on defaults.
@@Steelcast27 Thanks for the reply. Yep, essentially defaults on my attempts with the GT1s. Just shortening the gears, and small tweaks to the brake balance and/or pressure. The temps on the rears seem to end up about +8 to +10c compared to the fronts after 4 laps or so which is what I thought could be causing the oversteer. The I|M|O values on the rears all remain the same relative to each other though and in check. Just the numbers for all three readings go up by 8-10c compared to the fronts. Also, the pressure values remain essentially the same as the fronts which really doesn’t make sense to me if the temps have gone up by 8-10 degrees.
Don't worry about where the pressure ends up in bar or psi relative to tire temps, so long as the IMO is good. Its just numbers on the screen for now. probably will be fixed at some point by Reiza. During the course of a lap the temps will rise and fall for the IMO as well. You are actually looking for the average IMO here AFTER everything is stable (it takes about 3 laps) . As far as the rears heating up. MAX MAX temp is 104c over that and you're getting into spin city. So you need to change your driving style to reduce heat in the rears OR risk the spin. Closing the rear ducts can ony do so much. As far as the heat in the rears climbing uncontrollably, that's a problem with the setup that I cannot really fix in chat. Essentially, the rears are slipping too much and you need to figure out when and where and what adjustments to make to stop it. My mechanical grip (tab 2) tutorial should be ready by Jan 23rd. I wish I could push content out faster than than, but Im on a pretty severe sleep deficit as is. :)
Great video thanks, but what if mid pressure is good but the tire stays cool and wont turn green? Mclaren Gt4 around Cascais (short track)
The energy that heats the tires is based on friction and the physical stretching of the rubber. Its not all about pressure. You have to work the tires as well. If you hear the tires working thats good. Soften the pressures and keep it on its limit and you should generate more heat since the contact patch is larger.
Great Stuff! I have a question on the "Telemetry HUD that you switch on at the 4-minute mark. How do you do that? Does it come with AMS2? or is it a program you have to add? could you make a video on it/or if you have done so - can you direct me to it. Thanks for you Videos they really help. - update, I found it! again, thanks for your site!
its part of edit assignments options. Hud or Telem Hud, something like that. You just have to bind it.
Thank you for this as I don't know anything about tuning the cars. Just have a question because I'm getting confused with where the inside and outside part of the tire is, from the telemetry. Could you tell me which part is the outside temp(or inside temp) of the tire referring with the spring/brakes in the picture? I'm assuming the outside temp is where the brakes are drawn in the pkcture but then it always has the warmer temps between the two.
Hi Mike, the temps on the telemetry HUD are exactly as they appear on the car looking from the top down.
Front Left = OMI - IMO = Front Right
Rear Left = OMI - IMO = Rear Right
Awesome video, very useful for me. But i have a question, is asymetrycal camber recommended in general?
Hi David. Not that I’m aware of.
@@Steelcast27 thanks you for your response mate
Why make a seven-degree spread on the front tires when a better contact patch indicates a 2-degree spread on the tire at the end of a long straight when they tires are not deformed, this also ensure that the ware rate is even on all four tires? Your set up will eat up tires, and defeat the purpose of adjusting caster and camber.
hi i just wanted to ask where is inside of the tire is it the same for both tires or is it mirrored thanks.
From left to right its O-M-I --- I-M-O
ive been trying to apply this theory for tyres in assetto corsa In assetto corsa my tyres are a healthy green glow at 110 and a bluey green between 95-105 Should i go with the color or with the fact sheet. Also how can i drop the temperatures? I know i can change camber angles and tyre pressure but i cant get anywhere near 85 to 90 degrees with those settings unless i use a different compound but again they are blue if i do that
What does it mean when there is a horizontal empty space in one of the tyres graphic in the telemetry, low temperature? Thanks.
Not sure what you mean…
@@Steelcast27I have found the answer in the following video @ 15''. It is the tyre tread! ua-cam.com/video/_Wd9PtMQvq4/v-deo.html
Since the last patch, I've had to use really extreme cambers to get my rear IMOs up. Should I just aim for something a little lower now, like 3C difference max?
Yeah, 3c IMO is perfectly fine for a GT style car. In fact its probably a better benchmark nowadays. It you are around 3c you can start adjusting camber for feel.
Does this video still apply to AMS2 after the 1.5 update?
Generally yes.
Hello Steelcast27
Can you tell us when is it best to check tyre temperatures I always do it on the home straight after completing the lap, I then just Castor angles accordingly, this could be wrong perhaps you can enlighten me and others.
Cancel Steelcast27 I have just found and checked out your advanced setup guide, again a great piece of work thank you
I could not get this to work on the bt44, even on max camber possible Tyre temps are still quite even across the tyres (within 2-3 deg c on most tyres). I get the feeling the stock setups are way off on some carsin AMS2. I compared AMS2 to RF2 for the BT44 the AMS 2 version handles a lot worse IMHO, its much more twitchy on stock setup, I can't get it close to RF2 version (but i'm still a setup nube)
These are just goals, some cars like retro F1s will not reach the camber goals in particular, just by the nature of how the cars work. And yes, the default setups aren't great.
If you set this up once, will itthen be good to go for all races?
It should be closer, yeah. But it depends on how the car feels for you really. You might need to make minor adjustments based on the specific track and/or track conditions.
Being thick which part of the tyre do we know Is Imo it doesn’t make it clear in game thanku
The acronym IMO is interchangeable with “OMI” depending on the way you look at it. Looking at the HUD. The Left front is OMI. Right front IMO. Left rear is OMI, Right rear is IMO.
Anyone know if there's a way to analyse tyres after a stint? Or is the only way to monitor whilst you're driving ??
Only while driving. Choose the same point on the track and check every lap. Once it stabilizes, make adjustments. Rinse repeat.
"Tyres spelt with a y" - you mean, the correct way 😋 Any other spelling would just be - wait for it - tiring. You wouldn't want to get tired, while talking about tyres!
It all makes sense now!
what number is I M O ?
near the spring is Inside? and near the brake is Outside?
Using the telemetry HUD/UI, the IMOs are laid out exactly like they are on the track, above each of the wheels. Technically, reading the screen, the left side tires are OMI.
@@Steelcast27 thank you.
is that tyre overlay in game or external?
It's part of AMS2, you need to bind it with a key in the key assignment screen.
ok to be blue, go harris
These overlays (images, gifs) distract me from the content. nevertheless great video :)
Assuming your not racing on an oval circuit, if your tyre temps are not even across the tyre then your camber settings are all wrong! NO way do you want IMO temps of 85 87 90 for example.
What matters here is the cornering contact patch for the loaded tire. The tire IMO should be even. *while cornering*. The inner temps being slightly higher is simply a natural consequence of driving in a straight line. For example. If the car is in a constant state of turn, yes the outside tire would have an even IMO. Say you camber the car perfectly under that circumstance. Nice and even. Then introduce a straight. The outer edge will cool giving you a temp difference across the tire.
Not basic for me
WOW !!!!! Thankyou so much, the best vid I've seen by far on breaking down everything in an easy to understand manner, now I know when/why to adjust that others have never been able to explain.
You're very welcome!
2:32 I like that😍💋 💝💖❤️
If you get excited about tire pressures, this is the channel for you!
Thanks! Great Job.