I believe HiFlo got their name because they originally started off making air filters, and still do. Probably didn't want to rebrand when adding a line of oil filters.
@@jeffrygagnon5506 Another great filter that looks just like the HiFlo is the VOLAR. Made in Viet Nam. Same paper and construction. 3 for ten dollars. I change my oil by 1500 miles everytime.
@@jeffrygagnon5506 The source I used is D2moto in california. They have the long ones for the old 550 4 cyls, the single cam 750s, and the 650 up to about 1985. I own a 550, and 650 shaft drive now. Once you actually see them, and use them, you will appreciate how good they are..
Lot of things to consider on this subject, some of it specific to oil filters, some of it relates to filtration in general. 1. The anti-drainback isn't completely marketing, some manufacturers use rubber and others use silicone, the latter is superior. 2. Greater filtration is achieved by surface area (assuming everything else is equal). 3. Filter media itself varies across the board, they all have different properties. Something may seem thick but not filter as well and something may seem thin but not flow oil as freely. Synthetic media doesn't absorb moisture and clog up. Hiflo is a company name that they kept when they started making oil filters, rather than rebrand for the new product line. They are used a lot in all types of motorcycle racing because of their reputation for superior filtering, especially the race specific filters. I don't know if they still do, but I'm pretty sure Hiflo produces the oil filters for K&N. I will say this much, my Suzuki always had clutch material in the oil when using OEM filters and that went away when I started using Wix. My Honda oil has always come out free of fibers when using OEM, K&N or Hiflo filters.
I watched a lot videos with oil filter's getting analyzed. Thank's to all you guy's who do that. In 50 years of riding and close to that number of motorcycles I've never had a engine failure. And some of those bikes have been rode at a spirited pace/ abused. I think it's more about the correct oil getting changed frequently. In 50 years of mechanic experience ,40 years in truck fleets I've only seen a problem with Fleetguard trying to put a oil additive package in the filter's to extend oil changes on semi truck's. To run 50k between changes with non synthetic oil. It didn't work well. I've always look for filter's that are good value/cheap so I've tried a lot . And mostly run 15/40 diesel oil bought on sale for less than $10 a gallon. And never had a problem. My tuned 01 ,7.3 F250 gets Rotella T6 and Motorcraft filter's now. Check out Project Farm vidios for oil test .
Top 3 tested for me: № 3: Honda - Excellent filtration media for excellent particle capture (5 micron) - Good surface area for good oil flow - Close, consistent folding - Don't like the lack of seals on top and bottom of filter folds, which could allow bypass of oil through the folds, rather than the filtration media. - Don't like pressure relief bypass valve being a separate part, allowing oil to bypass the filtration media. № 2: K&N - Good filtration media, good particle capture (19 micron) - Excellent surface area for excellent oil flow - Sealed top and bottom of filter forcing - Spot welded nut for easy removal with hole for securing wire (racing application) - Don't like the inconsistent folding № 1: HifloFiltro - Great filtration media, great particle capture (19 micron) - Excellent surface area for excellent oil flow - Sealed top and bottom of filter - Close, consistent folding Not tested, but recommended over all others: HifloFiltro RC: - Excellent filtration media for excellent particle capture (5 micron) - Excellent surface area for excellent oil flow - Sealed top and bottom of filter - Close, consistent folding - Spot welded nut for easy removal with hole for securing wire (racing application)
Maybe this sheds a bit of light on the high flow part and how filters work and the same goes for airfilters. The 2 most important specifications of a filter are the ability to filter and the rate of flow. Here's why: If your engine has to perform very well, very short and not that often, you can choose to sacrifice filtration for more flow. However, the maintenance interval increses drastically. If you want your engine to perform quite good and but very durable, you want the oil to be as new after filtration, but you still need enough flow to lubricate your parts. There are two ways to gain more flow in a filtration system. The first, and most comon way to gain flow through a filter, is to allow bigger particles to go through and actually have a worse filter. This is what you see with for example cheap airfilterpods or "Open filters," they suck at their job, unless you are willing to replace parts more frequently. The second way to gain more flow in a filtration system of this type is to have more filter surface. This is pretty straight forward, if the filtersurface is bigger, more oil (or air) is allowed to flow through while still beïng filtered. This is the way K&N, Hiflo and Pro Honda achieve their goal. This (I think) is also the reason for the weird pattern of the hiflo filter. It is so they can fit more filter into the pod. The way I would rate the filters is first: "filterpaper-quality to surface ratio" second: bypass system in case filter gets clogged, third: price. The difference in price is really that not important because an expensive filter is always cheaper than new parts. Also, catastrofic failures such as exploding filters or paper that fals appart is imediate disquallification.
This was a great pair of videos. Excellent work! I know it's a few years old now, but still great stuff. As someone else said, HiFlow is essentially a brand name, it wasn't really referring to the action of the filter. However I agree with your thoughts that you laid out in these videos! As for me, I always try to go with factory filters first, but I have used both K&N and HiFlo on my '94 Yamaha XJ600 with no issues yet. Like I said though, I do prefer OEM filters. The same goes for cars!
One important factor is missing. What is the micron size of the paper filter? Maybe if you held it up to a bright light, you might be able to see through the HiFlow easier, thus the micron size is larger allowing larger particulate matter to flow through. You did a good "construction" of the filters video. But, the construction can be overbuilt, but under performing because of the kind of paper and micron size of the filter's ability to flow oil and block particulate matter. Me? I like the K&N because it makes it easy to take the filter off with that nut on the end. My 2007 BMW K1200R Sport's oil filter showed me that the K&N is needed or you take off the shift linkage to get to the filter with a filter wrench (especially when you buy the bike used and the Yayhoo who put the filter on last torqued it on with a breaker bar!!). BTW, very informative video and makes my K&N choice solid (to me at least).
I think the HiFlo filters are just longer and thus have more filter media. That is why they are Hiflo, nothing compromised. This guy is not doing anything scientific at all..
@@GrigoriMalikim only on race tracks they were banned for it. However, the filter was reaching very high pressures where other filters would just bypass so IDK
Modern oils (both dino and synthetic) are good enough that if you stick to the recommended oil change intervals, it probably will not make much difference what kind of oil or filter you use. Having said that, I still wouldn't use a Fram.
@@Tigerfire75 I had no problem with Fram filters either, until I saw what was inside of them. I would suggest that you watch a UA-cam video of someone cutting lots of different auto filters open and comparing them. There are lots of these videos to choose from and most of them will include a standard Fram filter in the bunch. My bad opinion of them came straight from their auto filters. Their motorcycle filters might actually be okay. It has been several weeks and I actually can't remember watching this particular video.
With due respects Cody, you have not addressed the most important factor in selecting oil filters, and that is Filtration Efficiency! The physical construction is possibly important to some riders but for most road riders it's not the most important feature. Filtration efficiency should be the most important criteria and unfortunately filter manufacturers will not divulge this information to the public. My understanding is that any particle size less than about 20 micron will just pass through the engine without damage. To carry out a comparative filtration test on all the filters tested, would be a very expensive exercise. For me, the quality of the oil and changing the oil when it's due or even more frequently would avoid serious engine damage.
Thank you for doing all that work and your time. I used many times Hi flow filter untill I cut it like you you did and I saw it was garbage. So I went back to Pro Honda for the best built quality. I cut through some Wixx filter they are good quality too I used them for my car.
K&N just went on my superhawk 996, but after this I think I'll be sticking with genuine honda filters from now on. I just liked the design better. It was unique and seemed to have a little different engineering which i appreciate.
I got me the K&N remember not all of us own Hondas some of us have different machines. I have a Yahmaha power plant but this was very informative thank you. The Fram filters are really cheaply made and are the biggest company that's how it works un USA.
I use Honda and K&N always, except on my 2006 Honda VFR, I won’t use K&N because when I use the K&N filter the gaskets leak, the Honda Pro filters I never had any issues. I do use the Chrome K&N on the 1998 Valkyrie and have never had any issues with K&N. I was wondering if anyone else had that issue with K&N leaking on a VFR. Cody Thanks for the content, now I feel more knowledgeable about filter brands and product quality.
Cody - good teardown. I think some of what you have identifies is key - having come from a water filtration industry background - Filtering ability is primarily the level of resistances and the surface area of the media that is active during filtration. The longer the paper provided the flutes are open to oil the better the level of filter to oil ratio plays a large role in flow and filtering ability. The porosity of the paper and the weave and the ability to trap particulate at diffening micron sizes is key to assessing the quality of the paper and thus the effectiveness. To you point a couple of dollars saved on a filter can be offset by the cost of oil. If you buy oil in 4 or 6 litre (1 gal 1.5 Gal bottles ) you will save the cost difference of the filters no problem. And if you look to buy when the oil is on special then that to can balance out the cost difference of the filter. In aus the Honda Filter is AUD$2-$5 more than the Hi-Flow and K&N is often a few cents to a$1.50 more than the Honda depending where you go. My local bike store sells and recommends Hi-Flow but did offer OEM Honda but had to wait for stock and I wanted to give the New to me bike a quick service of all fluids and I bought my oil from the mechanic from his 44 Gal (200Ltr Drum) I supplied and empty 4 ltr container and he filled with Motorex 10W40 for AUD$50.00 a saving ov over AUD$20 compared to my Honda dealer. Great review from you as always - Love your chanel and have seen some very useful/ helpful content. I have also joined your free mechanical/ maintenance course. Regards Michael.
Larger surface area can equal better flow and longer lasting, but depends on the material too. On my Harley and Buell I use the Harley filter for each to make sure the bypass spring is at the correct pressure. They are also supposed to be top quality for filtration and not really that much money compared to some.
good review of the filters. I am not surprised though that you picked honda as the top one considering it's all over your shop..no disrespect intended. Thanks for the analysis.
Congratulations, you missed the main point. The whole point is what percentage of the oil actually goes through the filter media each circulation. I have personally found through testing that even a brand new clean filter runs with the relief partially open all of the time so most of the oil goes over the relief and only a small percentage of it passes through the filter paper. However this is ok, if you think about it, the contaminants do not get into the oil in large amounts at a time, it is a gradual thing and so the filter only needs to filter gradually as well to keep the oil in good condition. I hope I didn,t break your bubble, your video was otherwise informative.
thanks very much: I will be using only factory oil filters on my bike from now on (Now it's a BMW K1600, not the Honda VTX I mention below). My last filter on my K1600 was a High FLo.
I use Hi Flow on my Yammy sr400. Half the cost of a Yammy OEM filter and it seems to filter oil fine. Yamaha recommend changing the filter at every other oil change which I do. However I change my oil every year and only do around 1500 annual mileage. Specs say change every 6000 miles.
Cannot go wrong with the Pro Honda Filter. I used Honda filter for 16 years on my Shadow. Currently on my Goldwing I use the Amsoil filter along with Amsoil oil. Seems to be well constructed. I took a chance and using K&N Oil filter on my CB1100. Some pointed out there was a recall on the "204", but i verified to check and make sure that was not the mfg date for my filter. I m glad to see K&N ranks high on construction. good vid...this took you a while!
I use a HiFlofiltro filter on my Kawasaki. Media looks to be the same as K%N. As for bypass system, My KLR uses a separate bypass which is transferred from filter to filter.. By pass pressure is important.. Too much resistance to bypass and that cold 20W50 oil can blow the media and then for as long as the filter is in service, no filtration takes place. I would rather have a weaker bypass spring to allow thick cold oil to circulate on startup, unfiltered, vs a strong spring that will force that thick oil through the paper media, both risking media blowout or limited flow when it is needed most which is at startup... You need fast oil circulation at startup which is where most wear in the top end takes place. At that time whether the oil is being filtered or not is NOT important. Oil starvation IS important.. Once oil is warm and thinner the bypass will close and oil will then be filtered... I think you're not thinking deep enough into it..
Good stuff! This was my suspicion about the bypass. Makes me wonder how much testing or engineering is put into the precision of the bypass pressure threshold. Obviously a weaker threshold would be better than one too strong but there must be a sweet spot. I have to believe that at least some manufacturers put some thought into this but it's interesting to see how different these filters turned out to be in that respect, just from Cody's non-precise check of the resistance.
They are identical Dan. oil filters are not made by the bike companies.My 400EX takes the exact same filter as an LTZ400 as well as many others I'm sure
a very in depth look at filters. thanks for taking the time and money to do this for us. i was impressed at the way the honda filter is built. i use strictly honda filters. one filter that you did not inspect was a wixs filter. they are suppose to be a very good filter. i saw several wings in your shop maybe you can do a video on an air filter replacement. thanks again.
My experience with oil filters over the years has proved over and over, that unless you physically inspect the construction of them like you have, you wont know the difference. The designs are constantly changing, regardless of brand. Sometimes the cheapest ones are the best. Many supposedly "high performance" filters are just a scam. Do the research and pass the word on.
I highly recommend you inspect a Bosch Distance+ filter. D3300 is the usual cross reference for Hondas. The case density is excellent for protection from rock strikes and it's element is impressive. I've had phenomenal results from these filters.
never seen what they look like inside, so thanks for doing that for us. I use OEM as we only talking about saving a few bucks. The BIG savings is in labour since I do my own wrenching, and therefore I can by the good stuff in parts.
Right on. These filter comparison videos always talk about the number of pleats, but but rarely mention the paper itself. There's a big difference in paper, and rest assured these cheap companies are not going to pay extra for high quality paper.
Not a Fram fan but the XG6607 Ultra Guard Synthetic would have probably been the one to compare with Honda, K&N, HiFlo, etc since it's there premium made for Synthetic oil the PH6607 is for conventional oil.
TheMotorcycleMD I don't use them but when I was researching oil filters for my first oil change on my CTX 1300 I saw them I have used them in the past on my car though I can't really say that they are good or bad or any other filter I have used never had engine problems.
You didn't mention an important feature. Filtration measured in microns nor did I hear about proper anti-drain back valve and pressure relief valve specs.
I had a K&N split on me, luckily it was on my winter hack CB1 400, not my Fireblade! It split at the removal nut covering my garage floor with oil! I thought that was a one off and due to all the winter crud on the filter, then the next year I got a recall from K&N for that very problem with the filters! I had just serviced my Blade and used a K&N but had to remove the filter as the serial number was from the faulty batch! So I use hiflo now but I'll be switching to Honda from now on!
Good couple vids, Cody! I'm using the Honda filter on my F6B... when I had a VT1100 I always used a Walmart Supertech. There's a big price difference there in filters, but both seem to work.
Honestly looks like all filters will do the job for regular interval oil changes. Personally I like the nut on the K&N and it seems well constructed. 10 bucks online, I’ll stick with it. Think the biggest shock was how flimsy the FRAM filter is made.
Great video! I like the way you explain things. Curious about the Fram though. The Fram MC filters I've seen at the store are all black and have special packaging. The Fram you had looked like the version for automobiles. I was wondering if the black Frams were any different?
I have seen a cut open Kawasaki OEM oil filter at the K&N booth at a Del Amo Event a couple of years ago. The inside had a white barrier which looked like Styrofoam. I have always used K&N, being designed for todays synthetic oils, and having a drilled bolt to safety wire, and prelubed o-ring. Never had any problems. I have also used Fram, back when they were Made in USA when I was a motorcycle messenger. I was changing the oil monthly and Fram was $4.99. They've had some quality control problems when they started making them in the Philippines. Now they are Made in Canada. I also use K&N air filter, since the stock foam was missing a corner piece. Foam deteriorates over time. K&N air filter seems to spread the power throughout the power band, while stock air filter focuses the power in the top end on the power band. ('99 ZX9R) My friend actually prefers the stock foam air filter in his '08 Hayabusa over K&N. He doesn't mind replacing the air filter every now and then, while K&N air filter is a one time investment.
HiFlo Filtro is my choice when I factor everything in. It’s built as good as or better than the K&N at half the price, also I appreciate the metal being so thick as I ride a naked bike and everything is open to the elements
I always fit the factory filter. It's the one designed for the bike. In my opinion it's not worth saving a small amount on such a critical part. Non OE maybe OK but you just don't know and I doubt there would be any come back. So save a few pennys on a filter or possibly spend hundreds on an engine rebuild? You would only find out when it's too late.
I had really liked the K&N filters, but heard so many comments on bike forums about the spot welds on the nut leaking. I switched to Mahle a couple of years ago.
my scoot, Genuine Buddy 125 (forced air cooling via fan & shroud around cylinder), gets HiFlo Filtro HF183 & HF197 or similar oem replacement type; my moto, Yamaha V Star 250 (ambient air cooling) has seen a variety of cartridge style filters...factory installed was yamaha oem; most of my break-in & first season was Fram CH6004 (made in India variety had less consistent filter media pleat spacing that made in China variety); currently has a HiFlo Filtro HF145; bought a few Yamaha oem filters for future use; any leftover Frams might get used for short oci's (winter storage or yearly flushes)
People, Fram makes filters for every kind of consumer! If you're ignorant and cheap, buy their Extra Guard line like the one here. If you're anal and want the best no matter what the cost, buy their Ultra Guard line. If you're in between, buy the Tough Guard line. Cut into an Ultra Guard and you'll see it's better than any of these in this video. It's pricey, but so are other top tier filters. Secondly, there is a whole lot of stuff that filters do that you can't see just by opening them up. Some things need to be tested under pressure and with equipment that nobody has, except for a few labs. Thirdly, the Honda filter's lack of end caps IS NOT a good thing. It might be a step above a paper end cap, but it is not as good as a fully contained and supported metal enclosure.
Fram's top tier filter is called Ultra Synthetic, not Ultra Guard. It may be better than their other ones, but it seems it still has the same plastic pressure valve: "It has a precision coil spring with a glass fiber reinforced nylon poppet relief valve." No thanks!
TrackSol You're right about the name. I forgot they changed it recently. It was a good move so that people wouldn't confuse it with the extra guard. As for the bypass valve, many good filters today use a very similar design. It's smooth, simple, and works for thousands of cycles.
Metal end caps stop the filter paper from collapsing under pressure. They all had them except Honda and the cheap rubbish fram. Not having any is just cheaper both materials and manufacturing costs.
People said that the newer K&N filter are worse in quality than they used to. I can't remember exactly, but I think I heared that something was cheap in the K&N filter, which could break and go through the engine, the pressure relief or a rubber part? After your review I can't find what the actual issue is with the K&N. However I do believe that companies usually change things of stuff after they bought of trademarks, since that's usually the first thing companies do to get more money out of it. Maybe theres a difference between car and motorcycle filters, or theres different sold to different countries, I don't know. I really want to believe that K&N are well for my motorcycle.
Thanks for you work, I give K&N a try, since the Pro Honda isn't available at the store and K&N is quite cheap here in Austria, hopefully the qualtiy is the same. Cheers.
My vstar650 uses a k&n its done 30,000kms and iv haven't seen any contamination yet. But it's like everything thing you buy that 1 in a 1000 could fail but its a quality and has always given good results. I also try to go factory because its built for the bike/car but k&n is a quality second choice
I'm an auto tech, and bought a K&N filter for my honda VTX, and recently got a recall notice from my supplier [for my auto repair shop] who warn that on that filter I bought, there is danger of the hex head to install it will break off and leak from the (welds? rivets?) and possible for oil to get on my rear tire. they don't pay for labor but offer a free replacement. MeH!
Bill Banche I received the same thing and checked both my bikes. I got lucky and neither needed it but the VTX head the numbers closer to the frame, from having to be screwed in, and it was difficult to read by myself. Either way all companies have recalls but that being said that's the chance you take by adding something that doesn't need to be there for easy removal. But if you're worried about paying for labor then you're probably not working on your own bike and you should. Always better to know and really easy upkeep for a Honda VTX. Safe riding buddy
The chamber where my filter sits had much dirtier oil than what came out of the casing. It was just a sand papery cylinder, I couldn't figure out how it works by looking at it, but I scrubbed it with a toothbrush in a plate of gasoline until it ran clear and popped it back in. It had aluminum caps at either end.
I'm no expert of course but couldn't the Honda design, where the inflowing oil immediately comes into contact with the filter paper from the end folds, be a bit weaker than the designs where the incoming oil is forced around and up to where the the filter papers has the largest surface? Of course there is no denying that the Honda filter paper seems to be of the best quality.
Many, many moons ago, I helped one of our salesmen cut open a few oil filters like this. Believe it or not, one of the filters used sawdust, as the filter media.
Nice informative vid buddy. I use the K@N filter. Only because I can buy it off the shelf at my local automotive store. I would prefer the pro Honda, but for me it's an internet order. And with the cost of shipping plus having to wait for it to arrive. Just more convenient for me to drive 2 miles and have the K@N in hand.
I think the Honda filter allow oil to partially bypass the filter material from brand new if the top and bottom ends are open, and that's why all the others are sealed.
I'm not an engineer or an expert on oil filters but I've been riding a long time and can go by experience. I use K&N on my HD and HifloFiltro on my Kawasaki Z1000. Never had an issue with either and both my bikes are in tip top condition. I began using K&N on my HD 12 years ago and have over 50,000 miles using K&N oil filters. On my Kawasaki I have almost 40,000 miles using HifloFiltro oil filters over the past 9 years. I replace my oil and filter every 5,000 miles. If don't want to spend $15 on an oil filter HifloFiltro performs just as well as filters twice the price. I personally would have rated it right up there with the K&N.
High flow is good as flow restriction causes a loss in oil pressure which means there is less pressure to get the oil through the engine. As long as the high flow is achieved with good design and not inferior filter material. You concern with the director cap on the filter inlet is misguided. The Honda is actually the worst design in that regard. You want the oil directed around the ends of the filter pleats so that it goes through the filter material from the outside to the inside. In the Honda design, if the ends of the pleats are glued together well, the oil could go right through a pleat directly to the inside without passing through the filter material. Same as if it went through the bypass valve. So, I would downgrade the Honda filter for its lack of a director plate to block the oil from entering the ends of the pleated element. Generally, the best filters are made by Wix and Purolater. Might want to try to find examples of those. I haven't checked lately to see if either makes motorcycle filters.
your logic is flawed. flow restriction causes INCREASE in pressure. pressure is a direct result of resistance to flow... no ifs, ands or buts about it.
Keem Osabe Actually, your logic is flawed. Most well designed engines pass the oil through the filter BEFORE it goes through the engine itself. An oil filter restriction will increase pressure between the pump and the filter, but that is “useless” pressure. The pressure that matters is what is seen at the bearings and lifter. The oil filter restriction will decreases the pressure AFTER the filter and before it enters the critical engine bearings and parts. So, oil filter restrictions are a bad deal for the engine. Now go back and do your homework before commenting again. 🙂
Keem Osabe Wow, you don’t even know enough about hydraulics to be teachable. But I will try one last time. www.donaldsontoolbox.com.au/files/1113/4833/3012/11ETT008_Tech_Talk_Liquid_Filtration_Pressure_Drop_Sep2011.pdf
Hey Dude, oil flow rate is at least as important as oil pressure imho. A higher flow rate is achieved by having finer fibers in the filter media, you have many more gaps per given area of media hence better flow. If the fibres are fine enough you can also make each "hole" for the oil to pass through smaller so the filter catches smaller particles of potentially damaging particles. In a nutshell, finer fibers allow greater flow as well as removal of smaller particles. Also mate, the extra hole in the bypass valve of the Hiflowfiltro unit has zero bearing on the flow rate of the filter... bypass activated or not... I reckon. Having said all that, thanks for the work you did, very informative. If a picture is worth a thousand words your video is worth at least 10,000.
Skip motorcycle filters entirely and run a purolator boss or pure one filter. Ran a pl14610 on my Honda vtx and on my Indian Roadmaster. Super quality at 12 bucks, fully synthetic filter media, and no issues. Oil doesn't even look brown til 2000 miles. I change every 5k and run 10 to 15k a year.
Same as FJR. One problem with the Bosch 3323 (made by Champion). The specs on the baseplate changed. Some are convex (an outie) and some are concave (an innie). A convex filter may not seal properly. You should open the box and inspect any filter before you buy it.
Wix is the brand i was hoping to see. But the others seem to be similar to each other’s. Seems like the bypass valve quality does vary due to the pressure differences.
Achieving higher flow at same quality of filtration must mean more surface area is being used. So as you pointed out those shorter fins create pockets for extra filtering area. In essence like having a larger diameter filter. This to me proves that Hi-flo is the better choice. No, I do not work for them.
Honda filters used to be made by a company called Filtech. I presume they still are. They were always a little different inside. I agree with others in the comments that simply changing the filter at the right interval is probably more important than the filter being used.
For Honda motorcycles, any filter that fits a Honda Accord will fit their cycles. Auto filters are lower cost than the cycle only filters. $4 at Wal-mart. For $10 the top of the line Fram will filter better than any other cycle filter and/or auto filter.
Looking at the Fram box he was holding that appears to be one of their car filters not the motorcycle filters. If you have ever bought a Fram motorcycle filter it comes in a black box not orange and the filter is also black not orange. I would like to see a supplemental with the right Fram filter. I do know that Fram's regular car figures are very cheap in construction as shown in this video and that is well know among auto enthusiast and mechanics. However, I am interested in how their MC filters are constructed in comparison.
The only thing these two vids showed me was the fact that I have always been correct......the days of having a mechanic (a true mechanic that understands all aspects of the internal combustion engine and the operating principles governing it) are gone and all we have now are motorcycle techs And you suck at hiding your pre disposition for favoring Honda filter, which is a less efficient filter than the K&N or HiFlo filters. Nice try though Mr Technician and to be a Master Mechanic you first have to become a mechanic!. Go do your oil changes and parts swapping and leave the really deep stuff for the real deal Mechanics (a truly dying breed). And a little note both K&N and HiFlo both come with an optional nut for you idiots that over tighten your hand tight filter so it can be easily removed and no I have never seen the nut separate from the filter, but it could happen they are only spot welded on in 6 spots. Oh and BTW I'm not so sure that Honda makes a filter for a Harley, or other motorcycles for that matter........I rest my case! Mechanics Rule, Technicians change oil and swap parts.
A filter that is high flow would be better described as having less resistance to flow. This means less work for the oil pump and hence reduced parasitic power loss for the engine, so more power. But without making a special test rig there is no way of quantifying the differences between them. I suspect it would be very small.
I'm watching your video. Thinking to myself, Where did you learn to be a motorcycle Tech? My trade is an Auto Tech. Graduated from the County Vocational School about 25 years ago. The "Diaphragm" is actually an Anti Drain Back valve. Silicon works better than the natural rubber ones. The Fram PH6607 is actually an Automotive Filter. My first car, A 93 Escort GT used that filter. Back then Fram was owned by Allied Signal. And was one of the best filters back then. Sold off a few times over the years. HiFlo is a brand made in the UK. Check their website. My current bike is a 2018 HD Sportster 1200. And I use the Bosch Premium 3330 filter. Rated for 20 Microns. Better than the stock Harley filters. For this engine rated at 40 Microns.
Another good video Cody! I remember back in the day Fram was one of the best you could buy, but not anymore! I am fortunate that I can put a Purolator Pure One filter on my PC 800. Been using those in all my autos for years.
I'm surprised about FRAM. I saw a similar video but about car oil filters and FRAM was by far the worst quality. A huge old company making low quality stuff. Disappointing
Are all Japanese bike oil filters ran one the same low or high pressure side? All Harley engines before the 1999 Twin Cam are ran on the return, or low pressure side while 1999 and up are on the high pressure side. For those before 1999 you can't run check valves or better than 30 microns because there isn't enough pressure and the oil will build up in the cam chest, then finding its way out onto yourself and bike with not much helping the engine. The 1999 up can use 10 microns and the check valve to prevent oil leaving the filter when not running. A simple look inside thru the top and the weight of the two compared shows the massive difference. You can use the old filter on a new engine if you had to, but you're allowing more shit to pass thru the filter due to micron difference and God knows if you haven't converted 1999 to 2006 Twin Cam to gear drive the last thing you want is 30 microns of shit from those garbage cam chains floating around. Cool vid...just adding some useless thoughts.
I believe HiFlo got their name because they originally started off making air filters, and still do. Probably didn't want to rebrand when adding a line of oil filters.
Good info!
Hiflow good product. Keeps oil. Clean as the ones that cost 3 times much.
Yes, Hi-Flo is Just a brand, it's not actually a hi Flow oil filter.
It's Just a regular filter with a fancy heritaged name.
Good video anyways.
@@jeffrygagnon5506 Another great filter that looks just like the HiFlo is the VOLAR. Made in Viet Nam. Same paper and construction. 3 for ten dollars. I change my oil by 1500 miles everytime.
@@jeffrygagnon5506 The source I used is D2moto in california.
They have the long ones for the old 550 4 cyls, the single cam 750s, and the 650 up to about 1985. I own a 550, and 650 shaft drive now. Once you actually see them, and use them, you will appreciate how good they are..
Lot of things to consider on this subject, some of it specific to oil filters, some of it relates to filtration in general.
1. The anti-drainback isn't completely marketing, some manufacturers use rubber and others use silicone, the latter is superior.
2. Greater filtration is achieved by surface area (assuming everything else is equal).
3. Filter media itself varies across the board, they all have different properties. Something may seem thick but not filter as well and something may seem thin but not flow oil as freely. Synthetic media doesn't absorb moisture and clog up.
Hiflo is a company name that they kept when they started making oil filters, rather than rebrand for the new product line. They are used a lot in all types of motorcycle racing because of their reputation for superior filtering, especially the race specific filters. I don't know if they still do, but I'm pretty sure Hiflo produces the oil filters for K&N.
I will say this much, my Suzuki always had clutch material in the oil when using OEM filters and that went away when I started using Wix. My Honda oil has always come out free of fibers when using OEM, K&N or Hiflo filters.
I watched a lot videos with oil filter's getting analyzed. Thank's to all you guy's who do that.
In 50 years of riding and close to that number of motorcycles I've never had a engine failure. And some of those bikes have been rode at a spirited pace/ abused.
I think it's more about the correct oil getting changed frequently.
In 50 years of mechanic experience ,40 years in truck fleets I've only seen a problem with Fleetguard trying to put a oil additive package in the filter's to extend oil changes on semi truck's. To run 50k between changes with non synthetic oil.
It didn't work well.
I've always look for filter's that are good value/cheap so I've tried a lot . And mostly run 15/40 diesel oil bought on sale for less than $10 a gallon. And never had a problem.
My tuned 01 ,7.3 F250 gets Rotella T6 and Motorcraft filter's now. Check out Project Farm vidios for oil test .
Anything to do with the Honda shirt. Kinda seems a little favored lol
Honda tech... No bias... Prefers Honda filter...
Sounds legit...
Michael Lovell 😂
@@NS-yl6wj I agree that the Honda filter was at least equal to the best in the test.
I use the KN filter. It works really well on my VT1100.
Awesome man! I don’t think you can go wrong with it!
Top 3 tested for me:
№ 3: Honda
- Excellent filtration media for excellent particle capture (5 micron)
- Good surface area for good oil flow
- Close, consistent folding
- Don't like the lack of seals on top and bottom of filter folds, which could allow bypass of oil through the folds, rather than the filtration media.
- Don't like pressure relief bypass valve being a separate part, allowing oil to bypass the filtration media.
№ 2: K&N
- Good filtration media, good particle capture (19 micron)
- Excellent surface area for excellent oil flow
- Sealed top and bottom of filter forcing
- Spot welded nut for easy removal with hole for securing wire (racing application)
- Don't like the inconsistent folding
№ 1: HifloFiltro
- Great filtration media, great particle capture (19 micron)
- Excellent surface area for excellent oil flow
- Sealed top and bottom of filter
- Close, consistent folding
Not tested, but recommended over all others:
HifloFiltro RC:
- Excellent filtration media for excellent particle capture (5 micron)
- Excellent surface area for excellent oil flow
- Sealed top and bottom of filter
- Close, consistent folding
- Spot welded nut for easy removal with hole for securing wire (racing application)
Maybe this sheds a bit of light on the high flow part and how filters work and the same goes for airfilters.
The 2 most important specifications of a filter are the ability to filter and the rate of flow. Here's why:
If your engine has to perform very well, very short and not that often, you can choose to sacrifice filtration for more flow. However, the maintenance interval increses drastically.
If you want your engine to perform quite good and but very durable, you want the oil to be as new after filtration, but you still need enough flow to lubricate your parts.
There are two ways to gain more flow in a filtration system. The first, and most comon way to gain flow through a filter, is to allow bigger particles to go through and actually have a worse filter. This is what you see with for example cheap airfilterpods or "Open filters," they suck at their job, unless you are willing to replace parts more frequently.
The second way to gain more flow in a filtration system of this type is to have more filter surface. This is pretty straight forward, if the filtersurface is bigger, more oil (or air) is allowed to flow through while still beïng filtered. This is the way K&N, Hiflo and Pro Honda achieve their goal. This (I think) is also the reason for the weird pattern of the hiflo filter. It is so they can fit more filter into the pod. The way I would rate the filters is first: "filterpaper-quality to surface ratio" second: bypass system in case filter gets clogged, third: price. The difference in price is really that not important because an expensive filter is always cheaper than new parts. Also, catastrofic failures such as exploding filters or paper that fals appart is imediate disquallification.
Just a quick and huge thanks for actually doing the research to show the differences and quality of each product. It will make an impact.
This was a great pair of videos. Excellent work! I know it's a few years old now, but still great stuff. As someone else said, HiFlow is essentially a brand name, it wasn't really referring to the action of the filter. However I agree with your thoughts that you laid out in these videos!
As for me, I always try to go with factory filters first, but I have used both K&N and HiFlo on my '94 Yamaha XJ600 with no issues yet. Like I said though, I do prefer OEM filters. The same goes for cars!
One important factor is missing. What is the micron size of the paper filter? Maybe if you held it up to a bright light, you might be able to see through the HiFlow easier, thus the micron size is larger allowing larger particulate matter to flow through. You did a good "construction" of the filters video. But, the construction can be overbuilt, but under performing because of the kind of paper and micron size of the filter's ability to flow oil and block particulate matter. Me? I like the K&N because it makes it easy to take the filter off with that nut on the end. My 2007 BMW K1200R Sport's oil filter showed me that the K&N is needed or you take off the shift linkage to get to the filter with a filter wrench (especially when you buy the bike used and the Yayhoo who put the filter on last torqued it on with a breaker bar!!). BTW, very informative video and makes my K&N choice solid (to me at least).
I think the HiFlo filters are just longer and thus have more filter media. That is why they are Hiflo, nothing compromised. This guy is not doing anything scientific at all..
The nut on the K&N holds up fine every time when you use proper torque when installed.
Proper torque to install is hand tight. The nut is for removal only, and you're right, I've never even heard of one failing.
@@GrigoriMalikim only on race tracks they were banned for it. However, the filter was reaching very high pressures where other filters would just bypass so IDK
Modern oils (both dino and synthetic) are good enough that if you stick to the recommended oil change intervals, it probably will not make much difference what kind of oil or filter you use. Having said that, I still wouldn't use a Fram.
lol you had me in the first half
LOL I wouldn't put a Fram filter in an engineless gravity racer.
I have used FRAM on vehicles and they did fine. Heck I have seen vehicles abused with FRAM and they kept on going.
@@Tigerfire75 I had no problem with Fram filters either, until I saw what was inside of them. I would suggest that you watch a UA-cam video of someone cutting lots of different auto filters open and comparing them. There are lots of these videos to choose from and most of them will include a standard Fram filter in the bunch. My bad opinion of them came straight from their auto filters. Their motorcycle filters might actually be okay. It has been several weeks and I actually can't remember watching this particular video.
K&N is made by Hiflo (to k&n spec).
Not anymore, since they started exploding. Made in china now I believe
HIFLO at startup(less pleats in spots)......they make all the K/N stuff also, same nut with safety wire version also
With due respects Cody, you have not addressed the most important factor in selecting oil filters, and that is Filtration Efficiency! The physical construction is possibly important to some riders but for most road riders it's not the most important feature. Filtration efficiency should be the most important criteria and unfortunately filter manufacturers will not divulge this information to the public. My understanding is that any particle size less than about 20 micron will just pass through the engine without damage. To carry out a comparative filtration test on all the filters tested, would be a very expensive exercise. For me, the quality of the oil and changing the oil when it's due or even more frequently would avoid serious engine damage.
Thank you for doing all that work and your time. I used many times Hi flow filter untill I cut it like you you did and I saw it was garbage. So I went back to Pro Honda for the best built quality. I cut through some Wixx filter they are good quality too I used them for my car.
K&N just went on my superhawk 996, but after this I think I'll be sticking with genuine honda filters from now on. I just liked the design better. It was unique and seemed to have a little different engineering which i appreciate.
I got me the K&N remember not all of us own Hondas some of us have different machines. I have a Yahmaha power plant but this was very informative thank you. The Fram filters are really cheaply made and are the biggest company that's how it works un USA.
That’s why I did the quality aftermarket brands as well. 🤙🏻🤙🏻
I know Yamaha owners in my Super Tenere forum use Honda filters. I'll consider it now, too, after watching these two videos.
Thanks for cutting them open, I'm not sure you know anything about filters but thanks
So explain them to us then
I use Honda and K&N always, except on my 2006 Honda VFR, I won’t use K&N because when I use the K&N filter the gaskets leak, the Honda Pro filters I never had any issues. I do use the Chrome K&N on the 1998 Valkyrie and have never had any issues with K&N. I was wondering if anyone else had that issue with K&N leaking on a VFR. Cody Thanks for the content, now I feel more knowledgeable about filter brands and product quality.
Great vid! I always go with the Honda Pro. Oil also.
Cody - good teardown.
I think some of what you have identifies is key - having come from a water filtration industry background - Filtering ability is primarily the level of resistances and the surface area of the media that is active during filtration.
The longer the paper provided the flutes are open to oil the better the level of filter to oil ratio plays a large role in flow and filtering ability. The porosity of the paper and the weave and the ability to trap particulate at diffening micron sizes is key to assessing the quality of the paper and thus the effectiveness.
To you point a couple of dollars saved on a filter can be offset by the cost of oil.
If you buy oil in 4 or 6 litre (1 gal 1.5 Gal bottles ) you will save the cost difference of the filters no problem.
And if you look to buy when the oil is on special then that to can balance out the cost difference of the filter.
In aus the Honda Filter is AUD$2-$5 more than the Hi-Flow and K&N is often a few cents to a$1.50 more than the Honda depending where you go. My local bike store sells and recommends Hi-Flow but did offer OEM Honda but had to wait for stock and I wanted to give the New to me bike a quick service of all fluids and I bought my oil from the mechanic from his 44 Gal (200Ltr Drum) I supplied and empty 4 ltr container and he filled with Motorex 10W40 for AUD$50.00 a saving ov over AUD$20 compared to my Honda dealer.
Great review from you as always -
Love your chanel and have seen some very useful/ helpful content.
I have also joined your free mechanical/ maintenance course.
Regards Michael.
Larger surface area can equal better flow and longer lasting, but depends on the material too. On my Harley and Buell I use the Harley filter for each to make sure the bypass spring is at the correct pressure. They are also supposed to be top quality for filtration and not really that much money compared to some.
Thanks for the info..I used high flow.
"Hiflo" is just the name of the company.
A company that makes great filters.
good review of the filters. I am not surprised though that you picked honda as the top one considering it's all over your shop..no disrespect intended. Thanks for the analysis.
Congratulations, you missed the main point. The whole point is what percentage of the oil actually goes through the filter media each circulation. I have personally found through testing that even a brand new clean filter runs with the relief partially open all of the time so most of the oil goes over the relief and only a small percentage of it passes through the filter paper. However this is ok, if you think about it, the contaminants do not get into the oil in large amounts at a time, it is a gradual thing and so the filter only needs to filter gradually as well to keep the oil in good condition. I hope I didn,t break your bubble, your video was otherwise informative.
BURST
Some oil filter don't have a pressure relief.Does it damage the engine or may affect the performance? Thank you in advance
Well done great idea. i think the paper quality would be my first priority . then construction and glues for different oil grades and types.
thanks very much: I will be using only factory oil filters on my bike from now on (Now it's a BMW K1600, not the Honda VTX I mention below). My last filter on my K1600 was a High FLo.
I use Hi Flow on my Yammy sr400. Half the cost of a Yammy OEM filter and it seems to filter oil fine. Yamaha recommend changing the filter at every other oil change which I do. However I change my oil every year and only do around 1500 annual mileage. Specs say change every 6000 miles.
Cannot go wrong with the Pro Honda Filter. I used Honda filter for 16 years on my Shadow. Currently on my Goldwing I use the Amsoil filter along with Amsoil oil. Seems to be well constructed. I took a chance and using K&N Oil filter on my CB1100. Some pointed out there was a recall on the "204", but i verified to check and make sure that was not the mfg date for my filter. I m glad to see K&N ranks high on construction. good vid...this took you a while!
I use a HiFlofiltro filter on my Kawasaki. Media looks to be the same as K%N. As for bypass system, My KLR uses a separate bypass which is transferred from filter to filter.. By pass pressure is important.. Too much resistance to bypass and that cold 20W50 oil can blow the media and then for as long as the filter is in service, no filtration takes place. I would rather have a weaker bypass spring to allow thick cold oil to circulate on startup, unfiltered, vs a strong spring that will force that thick oil through the paper media, both risking media blowout or limited flow when it is needed most which is at startup... You need fast oil circulation at startup which is where most wear in the top end takes place. At that time whether the oil is being filtered or not is NOT important. Oil starvation IS important.. Once oil is warm and thinner the bypass will close and oil will then be filtered... I think you're not thinking deep enough into it..
Good stuff! This was my suspicion about the bypass. Makes me wonder how much testing or engineering is put into the precision of the bypass pressure threshold. Obviously a weaker threshold would be better than one too strong but there must be a sweet spot. I have to believe that at least some manufacturers put some thought into this but it's interesting to see how different these filters turned out to be in that respect, just from Cody's non-precise check of the resistance.
I use OEM Kawasaki, interested to see if they are the same design as the Honda/Yam/Suzuki etc
Probably very similar! Good topic discussion though!
They are identical Dan. oil filters are not made by the bike companies.My 400EX takes the exact same filter as an LTZ400 as well as many others I'm sure
I just bought a 2021 Kawasaki 800 W and it comes with a Kawasaki stock filter made in China go figure I’m putting a high flow on it .
i WAS JUST GOING TO DO THIS. YOU SAVED ME A LOT OF WORK THANKS
a very in depth look at filters. thanks for taking the time and money to do this for us. i was impressed at the way the honda filter is built. i use strictly honda filters. one filter that you did not inspect was a wixs filter. they are suppose to be a very good filter. i saw several wings in your shop maybe you can do a video on an air filter replacement. thanks again.
My experience with oil filters over the years has proved over and over, that unless you physically inspect the construction of them like you have, you wont know the difference. The designs are constantly changing, regardless of brand. Sometimes the cheapest ones are the best. Many supposedly "high performance" filters are just a scam. Do the research and pass the word on.
nice breakdown!!!! priceless you changed my opinion on filters
I highly recommend you inspect a Bosch Distance+ filter. D3300 is the usual cross reference for Hondas. The case density is excellent for protection from rock strikes and it's element is impressive. I've had phenomenal results from these filters.
never seen what they look like inside, so thanks for doing that for us. I use OEM as we only talking about saving a few bucks. The BIG savings is in labour since I do my own wrenching, and therefore I can by the good stuff in parts.
Right on. These filter comparison videos always talk about the number of pleats, but but rarely mention the paper itself. There's a big difference in paper, and rest assured these cheap companies are not going to pay extra for high quality paper.
Not a Fram fan but the XG6607 Ultra Guard Synthetic would have probably been the one to compare with Honda, K&N, HiFlo, etc since it's there premium made for Synthetic oil the PH6607 is for conventional oil.
I might have to do another take with those filters! I was seriously unaware of the different options with fram
TheMotorcycleMD I don't use them but when I was researching oil filters for my first oil change on my CTX 1300 I saw them I have used them in the past on my car though I can't really say that they are good or bad or any other filter I have used never had engine problems.
You didn't mention an important feature. Filtration measured in microns nor did I hear about proper anti-drain back valve and pressure relief valve specs.
I had a K&N split on me, luckily it was on my winter hack CB1 400, not my Fireblade! It split at the removal nut covering my garage floor with oil! I thought that was a one off and due to all the winter crud on the filter, then the next year I got a recall from K&N for that very problem with the filters! I had just serviced my Blade and used a K&N but had to remove the filter as the serial number was from the faulty batch! So I use hiflo now but I'll be switching to Honda from now on!
what i got from the videos is that they seem to be all the same , similar design and functionality, they all do a good job
Fantastic stuff as always. Would love to see a Japanese manufacturer shootout. Keep up the great work 👍🏻
Good couple vids, Cody! I'm using the Honda filter on my F6B... when I had a VT1100 I always used a Walmart Supertech. There's a big price difference there in filters, but both seem to work.
Thank man! Keep at it with the Honda! I’m sure any of these will work. To me It comes down to trusting in consistency!
Very informative. Thanks!
Thanks for tuning in!
I'm curious who makes OEM filters and how they compare to each other.
Honestly looks like all filters will do the job for regular interval oil changes. Personally I like the nut on the K&N and it seems well constructed. 10 bucks online, I’ll stick with it. Think the biggest shock was how flimsy the FRAM filter is made.
Good filter choice! I agree!
Metal end caps are preferred on the filter media.
Great video! I like the way you explain things. Curious about the Fram though. The Fram MC filters I've seen at the store are all black and have special packaging. The Fram you had looked like the version for automobiles. I was wondering if the black Frams were any different?
I have seen a cut open Kawasaki OEM oil filter at the K&N booth at a Del Amo Event a couple of years ago. The inside had a white barrier which looked like Styrofoam. I have always used K&N, being designed for todays synthetic oils, and having a drilled bolt to safety wire, and prelubed o-ring. Never had any problems. I have also used Fram, back when they were Made in USA when I was a motorcycle messenger. I was changing the oil monthly and Fram was $4.99. They've had some quality control problems when they started making them in the Philippines. Now they are Made in Canada. I also use K&N air filter, since the stock foam was missing a corner piece. Foam deteriorates over time. K&N air filter seems to spread the power throughout the power band, while stock air filter focuses the power in the top end on the power band. ('99 ZX9R) My friend actually prefers the stock foam air filter in his '08 Hayabusa over K&N. He doesn't mind replacing the air filter every now and then, while K&N air filter is a one time investment.
HiFlo Filtro is my choice when I factor everything in. It’s built as good as or better than the K&N at half the price, also I appreciate the metal being so thick as I ride a naked bike and everything is open to the elements
I always fit the factory filter. It's the one designed for the bike. In my opinion it's not worth saving a small amount on such a critical part. Non OE maybe OK but you just don't know and I doubt there would be any come back. So save a few pennys on a filter or possibly spend hundreds on an engine rebuild? You would only find out when it's too late.
I had really liked the K&N filters, but heard so many comments on bike forums about the spot welds on the nut leaking. I switched to Mahle a couple of years ago.
They did have a recall on them I think.
I used the hifiltro and it sux. Oils was dirty after 3000miles. The Honda was great and so is the K/N which I use on my bike
I've decided to use K&N products on my Shadow 750. While my machine is far from racing or high performance, I like the quality.
Hey can you do a video with a recent Honda filter. Things change over time and am curious. Thanks for your videos!!
my scoot, Genuine Buddy 125 (forced air cooling via fan & shroud around cylinder), gets HiFlo Filtro HF183 & HF197 or similar oem replacement type; my moto, Yamaha V Star 250 (ambient air cooling) has seen a variety of cartridge style filters...factory installed was yamaha oem; most of my break-in & first season was Fram CH6004 (made in India variety had less consistent filter media pleat spacing that made in China variety); currently has a HiFlo Filtro HF145; bought a few Yamaha oem filters for future use; any leftover Frams might get used for short oci's (winter storage or yearly flushes)
People, Fram makes filters for every kind of consumer! If you're ignorant and cheap, buy their Extra Guard line like the one here. If you're anal and want the best no matter what the cost, buy their Ultra Guard line. If you're in between, buy the Tough Guard line.
Cut into an Ultra Guard and you'll see it's better than any of these in this video. It's pricey, but so are other top tier filters.
Secondly, there is a whole lot of stuff that filters do that you can't see just by opening them up. Some things need to be tested under pressure and with equipment that nobody has, except for a few labs.
Thirdly, the Honda filter's lack of end caps IS NOT a good thing. It might be a step above a paper end cap, but it is not as good as a fully contained and supported metal enclosure.
Wish I knew that fram had three different kinds!! Dangit!!
Fram's top tier filter is called Ultra Synthetic, not Ultra Guard. It may be better than their other ones, but it seems it still has the same plastic pressure valve: "It has a precision coil spring with a glass fiber reinforced nylon poppet relief valve." No thanks!
TrackSol You're right about the name. I forgot they changed it recently. It was a good move so that people wouldn't confuse it with the extra guard.
As for the bypass valve, many good filters today use a very similar design. It's smooth, simple, and works for thousands of cycles.
As others have said, Hiflo is the manufacturer product name. It's doesn't mean it flows the oil at a faster rate......
Metal end caps stop the filter paper from collapsing under pressure. They all had them except Honda and the cheap rubbish fram. Not having any is just cheaper both materials and manufacturing costs.
Build it like it need to last 100 years and toss it in the trash after 3,000 miles,it makes a lot of sense to me!!!!
People said that the newer K&N filter are worse in quality than they used to. I can't remember exactly, but I think I heared that something was cheap in the K&N filter, which could break and go through the engine, the pressure relief or a rubber part? After your review I can't find what the actual issue is with the K&N. However I do believe that companies usually change things of stuff after they bought of trademarks, since that's usually the first thing companies do to get more money out of it. Maybe theres a difference between car and motorcycle filters, or theres different sold to different countries, I don't know. I really want to believe that K&N are well for my motorcycle.
I honestly think they are a safe bet!
Thanks for you work, I give K&N a try, since the Pro Honda isn't available at the store and K&N is quite cheap here in Austria, hopefully the qualtiy is the same. Cheers.
My vstar650 uses a k&n its done 30,000kms and iv haven't seen any contamination yet. But it's like everything thing you buy that 1 in a 1000 could fail but its a quality and has always given good results. I also try to go factory because its built for the bike/car but k&n is a quality second choice
I'm an auto tech, and bought a K&N filter for my honda VTX, and recently got a recall notice from my supplier [for my auto repair shop] who warn that on that filter I bought, there is danger of the hex head to install it will break off and leak from the (welds? rivets?) and possible for oil to get on my rear tire. they don't pay for labor but offer a free replacement. MeH!
Bill Banche I received the same thing and checked both my bikes. I got lucky and neither needed it but the VTX head the numbers closer to the frame, from having to be screwed in, and it was difficult to read by myself. Either way all companies have recalls but that being said that's the chance you take by adding something that doesn't need to be there for easy removal. But if you're worried about paying for labor then you're probably not working on your own bike and you should. Always better to know and really easy upkeep for a Honda VTX. Safe riding buddy
The chamber where my filter sits had much dirtier oil than what came out of the casing. It was just a sand papery cylinder, I couldn't figure out how it works by looking at it, but I scrubbed it with a toothbrush in a plate of gasoline until it ran clear and popped it back in. It had aluminum caps at either end.
I'm no expert of course but couldn't the Honda design, where the inflowing oil immediately comes into contact with the filter paper from the end folds, be a bit weaker than the designs where the incoming oil is forced around and up to where the the filter papers has the largest surface? Of course there is no denying that the Honda filter paper seems to be of the best quality.
Many, many moons ago, I helped one of our salesmen cut open a few oil filters like this. Believe it or not, one of the filters used sawdust, as the filter media.
Nice informative vid buddy. I use the K@N filter. Only because I can buy it off the shelf at my local automotive store. I would prefer the pro Honda, but for me it's an internet order. And with the cost of shipping plus having to wait for it to arrive. Just more convenient for me to drive 2 miles and have the K@N in hand.
I think the Honda filter allow oil to partially bypass the filter material from brand new if the top and bottom ends are open, and that's why all the others are sealed.
I'm not an engineer or an expert on oil filters but I've been riding a long time and can go by experience. I use K&N on my HD and HifloFiltro on my Kawasaki Z1000. Never had an issue with either and both my bikes are in tip top condition. I began using K&N on my HD 12 years ago and have over 50,000 miles using K&N oil filters. On my Kawasaki I have almost 40,000 miles using HifloFiltro oil filters over the past 9 years. I replace my oil and filter every 5,000 miles. If don't want to spend $15 on an oil filter HifloFiltro performs just as well as filters twice the price. I personally would have rated it right up there with the K&N.
I use a hi flo cody never had any problems. I have a kawasaki zephyr zr 😄😄
High flow is good as flow restriction causes a loss in oil pressure which means there is less pressure to get the oil through the engine. As long as the high flow is achieved with good design and not inferior filter material.
You concern with the director cap on the filter inlet is misguided. The Honda is actually the worst design in that regard. You want the oil directed around the ends of the filter pleats so that it goes through the filter material from the outside to the inside. In the Honda design, if the ends of the pleats are glued together well, the oil could go right through a pleat directly to the inside without passing through the filter material. Same as if it went through the bypass valve. So, I would downgrade the Honda filter for its lack of a director plate to block the oil from entering the ends of the pleated element.
Generally, the best filters are made by Wix and Purolater. Might want to try to find examples of those. I haven't checked lately to see if either makes motorcycle filters.
your logic is flawed. flow restriction causes INCREASE in pressure. pressure is a direct result of resistance to flow... no ifs, ands or buts about it.
Keem Osabe Actually, your logic is flawed. Most well designed engines pass the oil through the filter BEFORE it goes through the engine itself. An oil filter restriction will increase pressure between the pump and the filter, but that is “useless” pressure. The pressure that matters is what is seen at the bearings and lifter. The oil filter restriction will decreases the pressure AFTER the filter and before it enters the critical engine bearings and parts. So, oil filter restrictions are a bad deal for the engine.
Now go back and do your homework before commenting again. 🙂
Try again, champ. The pressure differential lasts for a few nanoseconds until everything is equalized.
Keem Osabe Wow, you don’t even know enough about hydraulics to be teachable. But I will try one last time.
www.donaldsontoolbox.com.au/files/1113/4833/3012/11ETT008_Tech_Talk_Liquid_Filtration_Pressure_Drop_Sep2011.pdf
That's funny.... I was thinking exactly the same thing about you.
Restistance to flow (aka restriction) results in an increase in pressure.
period.
Hiflofiltro builds the K&N filter
Hey Dude, oil flow rate is at least as important as oil pressure imho. A higher flow rate is achieved by having finer fibers in the filter
media, you have many more gaps per given area of media hence better flow. If the fibres are fine enough you can also make each "hole" for the oil to pass through smaller so the filter catches smaller particles of potentially damaging particles.
In a nutshell, finer fibers allow greater flow as well as removal of smaller particles.
Also mate, the extra hole in the bypass valve of the Hiflowfiltro unit has zero bearing on the flow rate of
the filter... bypass activated or not... I reckon.
Having said all that, thanks for the work you did, very informative. If a picture is worth a thousand words
your video is worth at least 10,000.
I have heard that HIFLO makes the K&N filters for K&N !!
Skip motorcycle filters entirely and run a purolator boss or pure one filter. Ran a pl14610 on my Honda vtx and on my Indian Roadmaster. Super quality at 12 bucks, fully synthetic filter media, and no issues. Oil doesn't even look brown til 2000 miles. I change every 5k and run 10 to 15k a year.
You missed two popular filters that us VTX guy use a lot. The Bosch 3323 and the Mobile 1M110 or M108
Same as FJR. One problem with the Bosch 3323 (made by Champion). The specs on the baseplate changed. Some are convex (an outie) and some are concave (an innie). A convex filter may not seal properly. You should open the box and inspect any filter before you buy it.
Could have saved a lot of time by just reading your shirt! lol
Hiflofiltro for me. New filter and motul 300v every 3500km
You should have done it a Wix filter can't go wrong with Wix definitely on of the best
I have seen Kand N are the same insides as SmartTech from walmart
Wix is the brand i was hoping to see. But the others seem to be similar to each other’s. Seems like the bypass valve quality does vary due to the pressure differences.
Achieving higher flow at same quality of filtration must mean more surface area is being used. So as you pointed out those shorter fins create pockets for extra filtering area. In essence like having a larger diameter filter. This to me proves that Hi-flo is the better choice. No, I do not work for them.
Very informative video, Thanks keep up the good work. I would use the Honda filter as well.
Thank man! You can’t go wrong with Honda 🤙🏻
Honda filters used to be made by a company called Filtech. I presume they still are. They were always a little different inside. I agree with others in the comments that simply changing the filter at the right interval is probably more important than the filter being used.
For Honda motorcycles, any filter that fits a Honda Accord will fit their cycles. Auto filters are lower cost than the cycle only filters. $4 at Wal-mart. For $10 the top of the line Fram will filter better than any other cycle filter and/or auto filter.
Looking at the Fram box he was holding that appears to be one of their car filters not the motorcycle filters. If you have ever bought a Fram motorcycle filter it comes in a black box not orange and the filter is also black not orange. I would like to see a supplemental with the right Fram filter. I do know that Fram's regular car figures are very cheap in construction as shown in this video and that is well know among auto enthusiast and mechanics. However, I am interested in how their MC filters are constructed in comparison.
The only thing these two vids showed me was the fact that I have always been correct......the days of having a mechanic (a true mechanic that understands all aspects of the internal combustion engine and the operating principles governing it) are gone and all we have now are motorcycle techs And you suck at hiding your pre disposition for favoring Honda filter, which is a less efficient filter than the K&N or HiFlo filters. Nice try though Mr Technician and to be a Master Mechanic you first have to become a mechanic!. Go do your oil changes and parts swapping and leave the really deep stuff for the real deal Mechanics (a truly dying breed). And a little note both K&N and HiFlo both come with an optional nut for you idiots that over tighten your hand tight filter so it can be easily removed and no I have never seen the nut separate from the filter, but it could happen they are only spot welded on in 6 spots. Oh and BTW I'm not so sure that Honda makes a filter for a Harley, or other motorcycles for that matter........I rest my case! Mechanics Rule, Technicians change oil and swap parts.
Loved the review. Do you have any insight on automotive filters being used on motorcycles (ie. Napa gold oil filter)?
Please compare motorcycle branded fiters like, honda. Ysmaha, etc.
A filter that is high flow would be better described as having less resistance to flow. This means less work for the oil pump and hence reduced parasitic power loss for the engine, so more power. But without making a special test rig there is no way of quantifying the differences between them. I suspect it would be very small.
Honda filters always - nice review!!
I'm watching your video. Thinking to myself, Where did you learn to be a motorcycle Tech? My trade is an Auto Tech. Graduated from the County Vocational School about 25 years ago. The "Diaphragm" is actually an Anti Drain Back valve. Silicon works better than the natural rubber ones. The Fram PH6607 is actually an Automotive Filter. My first car, A 93 Escort GT used that filter. Back then Fram was owned by Allied Signal. And was one of the best filters back then. Sold off a few times over the years. HiFlo is a brand made in the UK. Check their website. My current bike is a 2018 HD Sportster 1200. And I use the Bosch Premium 3330 filter. Rated for 20 Microns. Better than the stock Harley filters. For this engine rated at 40 Microns.
Another good video Cody! I remember back in the day Fram was one of the best you could buy, but not anymore! I am fortunate that I can put a Purolator Pure One filter on my PC 800. Been using those in all my autos for years.
I also use Purolator Pure One filters on my FJR300.
i use a bosch car filter on my vt750.
I'm surprised about FRAM. I saw a similar video but about car oil filters and FRAM was by far the worst quality.
A huge old company making low quality stuff. Disappointing
Never ever use Fram on anything.
Are all Japanese bike oil filters ran one the same low or high pressure side? All Harley engines before the 1999 Twin Cam are ran on the return, or low pressure side while 1999 and up are on the high pressure side. For those before 1999 you can't run check valves or better than 30 microns because there isn't enough pressure and the oil will build up in the cam chest, then finding its way out onto yourself and bike with not much helping the engine. The 1999 up can use 10 microns and the check valve to prevent oil leaving the filter when not running. A simple look inside thru the top and the weight of the two compared shows the massive difference. You can use the old filter on a new engine if you had to, but you're allowing more shit to pass thru the filter due to micron difference and God knows if you haven't converted 1999 to 2006 Twin Cam to gear drive the last thing you want is 30 microns of shit from those garbage cam chains floating around. Cool vid...just adding some useless thoughts.
K&N. all day long. every day.
now we see why
Plenty of bike still running after 60 70 years with no filters