Thank you Clyde for suc an informative video. I am now in second year and having made most of the errors you cite, I now know why I had so many problems........once again, many thanks from UK,
I'm glad it could shed some light on some of the issues. Unfortunately breeding any animals there are no guarantees but you should see better results from 2nd season pairs and far less of these types of problems.
Thx a lot for another great show. The quality of Sepia is definitely something to watch out for, stay away from the darker colored fishy ones. Best regards from Denmark!
I always knock on the door to the birdroom so they know I am coming I also do it with the nestbox 5-6 knock and they will get use to your contact just start with a finger in the box and go further and further In that way you get some very calm birds and youngsters( I have them on breeding purpose )
That’s why I got so much trouble … I paired a lot of one-year bird I think. I’m new to breeding birds and last year I didn’t put rings on em. I’m pretty sure I sold adult one and keep the youngster and that’s why this year its hard. Out of 10 pairs that layed eggs only one got babies ( they will be out of the nest next week I think ) Plus my original gouldian couple the one that Im sure they are adults (the OG one like I call em lol ), the hen is too old I think ( almost 4 years ) the first « round » she layed only infertil eggs I think now for the second round there might be 2out of 5 that are probably good Im praying haha anyway … this year I will put rings on every birds and I won’t make the same mistake next year I will not pair birds that are at least 12months old !! As usual thank you for this show it’s always a pleasure to watch and learn
Some people say to deworm birds every three months and others say you dont give medication to birds unless they are sick (i have outside aviary in south africa)- please advise
Hi Francois. This is going to sound funny but both are partially correct. De-worming is a prevention treatment same as treating for mite and coccidia. All of these organisms have an affect on the breeding condition of the parents and the survival rate of the chicks. Every breeder will give you different intervals of treatment. Personally I do it twice a year. Once before breeding and once before the moult. The second aspect of your question...don't treat unless sick I also agree with 100% in terms of antibiotics and other medicines that should only be used to cure a actual problem and NEVER used just incase. The reason I say this is simple. We know that in humans we have caused "super bugs" by the over subscription of antibiotics and people not completing the recommended course. The same applies to our birds. If we give antibiotics preventatively you are stopping them from developing there own immune system. Secondly the bacteria can become "immune" to the antibiotics so when you do need it they do not work. Finally antibiotics kill good flora in the gut and the birds then end up on a roller coaster of being off and on antibiotics as the moment they off it they start to get ill as they have lost the natural defense in the gut. (Therefore you always follow up with an immune booster and a probioticafter threatong with antibiotics). I hope this helps.
How long of a light schedule do you need to breed gouldians ? I keep canaries in the same bird room and I always need to adjust my lighting due to the breeding of those canaries. During my canary breeding season my lights may be on for 14 hours but during my non canary breeding times the light my be only on for 10 or 9 hours. Also my gouldians usually come into breeding condition during my non canary breeding times. Please help
My bird room gets natural light so in the breeding season it starts to get light at about 6am. I switch on the main light and cage lights at 6:30 when I feed in the morning. I then switch off the cage lights at 19h30 and the main light at 20h00 pm.
I have one more question and I apologise if you already answered it as I watched some of the episodes quite some time ago and will watch the rest - why do they stop feeding chicks which already left the nest (suspicion) ? I lost 2 out of 32 juveniles so far and those two (one died yesterday and one the day before) were spotted sitting "tame" on the aviary floor- do they sense something wrong with the chicks and think "why bother" ? Or is it the parents' fault? Or perhaps my fault ? Thanx in advance
Francois, we don't fully know to be honest. Most make great parents and raise the young and wean then without problems. Some don't feed at all and abandon the nest when the eggs hatch. It is younger birds generally speaking that gibe us the problems as a rule but not always. This is why I try not breed first years. They are like teenagers they want the fun but not the responsibility.
Is there any way to visually distinguish a purple breast hen and a lilac breast hen ? I mean lilac breast cock and deep purple hen are easy to spot … but for the regular purple breast hen it can kinda looks like a lilac breast ?? I don’t know If I’m clear
It is not easy at all to distinguish the two which is why careful record keeping is so important. I have however observed a more brown hue to the hens breat on a lilac compared to a normal hen but I need to test this a bit more before I can say it is definitive. Hope it helps.
Thank you again for the good information, making me a more informed breeder. Why do birds love to eat charcoal? Should I treat egg shells before feeding it to my birds? Do UV A&B light treated food hold any negative side affects for birds? Is there any breeder supplimenting bird feed with pure krill oil? (Replacement for wheatgerm oil) Joyfull birding Leon
Hi Leon. They charcoal they would find naturally in the wild after a vendor fire etc. And it is very good at neutralizing toxins. It is therefore good for them but not all the time. I like to give it after they have finished a course medicines or once a week / every other week.
Thank you Clyde for suc an informative video. I am now in second year and having made most of the errors you cite, I now know why I had so many problems........once again, many thanks from UK,
I'm glad it could shed some light on some of the issues. Unfortunately breeding any animals there are no guarantees but you should see better results from 2nd season pairs and far less of these types of problems.
I have watched all the episodes to this point. I am loving all the information! Thank you!
I appreciate the positive feedback, thank you Mark.
Hello from Denmark
I have find out that it should be a vitamine that the blue can't produce and need to add to their diet.
Keep up the good work
Wrong video 😕
Jan that is one of the theories yes when it comes to the blues.
Thx a lot for another great show. The quality of Sepia is definitely something to watch out for, stay away from the darker colored fishy ones. Best regards from Denmark!
I always knock on the door to the birdroom so they know I am coming I also do it with the nestbox 5-6 knock and they will get use to your contact just start with a finger in the box and go further and further In that way you get some very calm birds and youngsters( I have them on breeding purpose )
That’s why I got so much trouble … I paired a lot of one-year bird I think. I’m new to breeding birds and last year I didn’t put rings on em. I’m pretty sure I sold adult one and keep the youngster and that’s why this year its hard.
Out of 10 pairs that layed eggs only one got babies ( they will be out of the nest next week I think )
Plus my original gouldian couple the one that Im sure they are adults (the OG one like I call em lol ), the hen is too old I think ( almost 4 years ) the first « round » she layed only infertil eggs
I think now for the second round there might be 2out of 5 that are probably good Im praying haha anyway … this year I will put rings on every birds and I won’t make the same mistake next year I will not pair birds that are at least 12months old !!
As usual thank you for this show it’s always a pleasure to watch and learn
Always a pleasure. I'm glad it is helping.
Some people say to deworm birds every three months and others say you dont give medication to birds unless they are sick (i have outside aviary in south africa)- please advise
Hi Francois.
This is going to sound funny but both are partially correct. De-worming is a prevention treatment same as treating for mite and coccidia. All of these organisms have an affect on the breeding condition of the parents and the survival rate of the chicks. Every breeder will give you different intervals of treatment. Personally I do it twice a year. Once before breeding and once before the moult. The second aspect of your question...don't treat unless sick I also agree with 100% in terms of antibiotics and other medicines that should only be used to cure a actual problem and NEVER used just incase. The reason I say this is simple. We know that in humans we have caused "super bugs" by the over subscription of antibiotics and people not completing the recommended course. The same applies to our birds. If we give antibiotics preventatively you are stopping them from developing there own immune system. Secondly the bacteria can become "immune" to the antibiotics so when you do need it they do not work. Finally antibiotics kill good flora in the gut and the birds then end up on a roller coaster of being off and on antibiotics as the moment they off it they start to get ill as they have lost the natural defense in the gut. (Therefore you always follow up with an immune booster and a probioticafter threatong with antibiotics).
I hope this helps.
@@thehouseofgouldians Thank you so much sir for your thorough response and your channel - it is much respected and appreciated
How long of a light schedule do you need to breed gouldians ? I keep canaries in the same bird room and I always need to adjust my lighting due to the breeding of those canaries. During my canary breeding season my lights may be on for 14 hours but during my non canary breeding times the light my be only on for 10 or 9 hours. Also my gouldians usually come into breeding condition during my non canary breeding times. Please help
My bird room gets natural light so in the breeding season it starts to get light at about 6am. I switch on the main light and cage lights at 6:30 when I feed in the morning. I then switch off the cage lights at 19h30 and the main light at 20h00 pm.
12 hours is enough though
hi! please i didn't understand which months you put them breeding....and when your birds go molting???
Hi.
In the southern hemisphere we breed from Feb to July /Aug. Molt is August to November. Austerity is Dec. For the Norther hemisphere plus 6 months.
How to protect eggs and chicks from 🦎lizards
Hi , my male is aggrisive his female , what i can do ?
You can put in a stress perch so the hen can get away from the cock bird.
@@thehouseofgouldians she also have 2 egg in cage but she no sitting on the eggs , what i can do ?
I have one more question and I apologise if you already answered it as I watched some of the episodes quite some time ago and will watch the rest - why do they stop feeding chicks which already left the nest (suspicion) ? I lost 2 out of 32 juveniles so far and those two (one died yesterday and one the day before) were spotted sitting "tame" on the aviary floor- do they sense something wrong with the chicks and think "why bother" ? Or is it the parents' fault? Or perhaps my fault ? Thanx in advance
Francois, we don't fully know to be honest. Most make great parents and raise the young and wean then without problems. Some don't feed at all and abandon the nest when the eggs hatch.
It is younger birds generally speaking that gibe us the problems as a rule but not always. This is why I try not breed first years. They are like teenagers they want the fun but not the responsibility.
@francoisvanwyk8361 we all learn don't feel bad. That is why I started the channel and the club.
@@thehouseofgouldians 👍🏻❤
Is there any way to visually distinguish a purple breast hen and a lilac breast hen ?
I mean lilac breast cock and deep purple hen are easy to spot … but for the regular purple breast hen it can kinda looks like a lilac breast ?? I don’t know If I’m clear
It is not easy at all to distinguish the two which is why careful record keeping is so important. I have however observed a more brown hue to the hens breat on a lilac compared to a normal hen but I need to test this a bit more before I can say it is definitive. Hope it helps.
Thank you again for the good information, making me a more informed breeder.
Why do birds love to eat charcoal?
Should I treat egg shells before feeding it to my birds?
Do UV A&B light treated food hold any negative side affects for birds?
Is there any breeder supplimenting bird feed with pure krill oil? (Replacement for wheatgerm oil)
Joyfull birding
Leon
Hi Leon.
They charcoal they would find naturally in the wild after a vendor fire etc. And it is very good at neutralizing toxins. It is therefore good for them but not all the time. I like to give it after they have finished a course medicines or once a week / every other week.
Egg shells must be boiled, baked or microwaved to make sure they are free of anything that can harm your birds.
God bro
Thanks