Calfskin 🐮 vs Cordovan 🐴 Allen Edmonds Shoe Comparison l Kirby Allison
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- Опубліковано 11 лип 2019
- In this video, Kirby explains the differences between Calfskin 🐮 Leather and Cordovan 🐴with two pairs of Allen Edmond's Park Avenue Captoe Oxfords. At a $270 premium over the calfskin, the Allen Edmonds Park Avenue Captoe Oxfords in cordovan have key differences that make premium all the more worth it.
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Love the videos. Especially love the videos where the products reviewed are easily obtainable for the more average person
Excellent explanation. Going forward I decided to buy only high quality leather shoes. I noticed Cordovan leather is always more expensive, but I didn’t know the difference. This short video explains everything.
Thanks a lot for taking your time to educate the audience. As a buyer, now I am very well informed.
Excellent commentary on how the two are so different, from top to bottom.
Recently sourced my first pair of AE shoes for resale and your video was SO HELPFUL in teaching me how to identify what I have. THANK YOU!
My AE shell Cordovan chukka boots (Horween#4) get heavy use, I like the distinctive "roll" at top of arch vamp peculiar to shell, rather than the creases that forms from leather. The shine I get from AE calf is nice, but the best shine comes from a vintage pair of Johnston-Murphy black modified Jodhpurs (when J-M was solely USA made), and the very best is from a pair of Italian Jodhpurs. Thanks, I appreciate your post.
With Allen Edmonds’ recent release of smaller sizes in selected lasts (Park Avenues in both calfskin and cordovan included), I finally have choices! Thank you, Kirby, for posting this video as it most appropriate to my dilemma!
Yeah its about time they realize there's a huge market below size 8
@4:11 there's an error... should state "versus a full RUBBER toplift on the Park Avenue in calfskin" (not leather)
Very good description for the novice like me! I'm a "skate boot" fanantic and see the similarities to a competition boot and this shoe!
Just noticed you're uploading in 4k now Kirby. Nice :)
I have owned, over the years, a couple of dozen pairs of Allen Edmonds shoes. By far, my favorites were the Park Avenue style shoes. Now, I am retired and can no longer afford Allen Edmonds shoes. I have never had a pair of Allen Edmonds cordovan shoes. Mine were all calfskin. They were comfortable, durable, and looked like a million bucks. I always kept a mirror shine on the toes. The only problem I ever had was not with the shoe, but with where I had to wear them. I traveled and flew on a daily basis. The airplane seat in front of me would wreak havoc on my shoes. I honestly miss wearing Allen Edmonds shoes. There are more expensive brands but there are none more beautiful or durable. Allen Edmonds shoes are the only shoe made in America that is worth investing in.
I was sized at the SLC AE store two years ago. I found out I wear a 3E (explaining why no shoes ever fit me). I now have 7 pairs including 2 oxfords, 1 double monk, 1 boots, 2 sneakers and 1 derby. If you have extra wide feet AE is your best option. There are some other but none with the selection for the price. If you can afford bespoke that is obviously a better way to go, but for most of us you need to have AE in your closet!
Great video. Was looking to purchase my first pair of Alden Indy boots in cordovan, but had a bad experience at the DC Alden store and am now considering the AE Dalton's.
i got the daltons. And Helm. very different
Just picked up Higgins Mill in #8 shell. And have owned the strand in walnut calf for a few yrs. 👍
Well executed and informative video.
Well said!! Very good video. Keep it up
Thank you for this video!
Can you review Berluti Alessandro ready to wear oxfords? It would be very interresting to hear is Berluti worth the sky high prices with long heritage and how they compare to like Gaziano or Edward?
I would love to get a pair of shoes with J.R. Reddenbach Soles, as I hear from multiple sources that they are the best soles available. I know that the J.R soles will last longer, however; I’m curious as to whether or not J.R. Soles are more comfortable than other soles? Excellent video. Very informative and interesting!
Very informative. Thank you
Great info, thank you.
I would like to know your definition of patina. My Cordavan shoes seem to have plenty of natural patina. Over time with care, mostly a damp cloth and brushing, the interior glow of Shell Cordavan is quite evident. They do end up with different shaded areas. Every 20 wears, I will put on some VSC and annually will polish with a Cordavan creme polish. Over the years Shell does have great character.
Cordovan - Old pair of Leeds which have been recrafted by AE and a newer pair of Cambridge which are simply gorgeous!
Loved the video. I just took the plunge into AE cordovan after having about seven different AE shoes. It's funny as I'll tell you that all of my Allen Edmonds shoes wear like iron. About the only thing I'll say is that my blue Allen Edmonds calfskin shoes tend to fade, but 30 sec with some Angelus dye works magic. Bottom line: don't stress if your blue shoes fade.
When I first got into quality dress shoes I bought 3 pairs of AE dress shoes, all in calfskin. Beautiful shoes, however I work long hours and failed to polish them as often as I should. I wore these shoes twice a week for 4 years and then bought a pair of Alden Norwegian split toes in cordovan to replace one of the AEs that had become too uncomfortable to wear. The cordovans were, and still are, more comfortable and look great with minimal maintenance which is part of the appeal.
However when I do spend the time to clean up all of the shoes the AE calfskins look better. The cordovan shoes are heavier and don't breathe as well. For this reason I usually don't wear them during the warmer months as my feet get too hot.
My preference for dress oxfords is AE calfskin which I think looks fantastic and will look best when cleaned and polished. However for more comfortable and lower maintenance shoes I opt for Alden cordovan in derby styles. This gives me some options and allows me to dress really sharp such as if I'm going to a board meeting or to an interview. I also have flexibility to just wear my cordovan derbies if I don't have time to properly polish my shoes and/or if I'm dressing a little more casually.
Enjoyed the video. How about a word of two about the other old American shoe maker Alden?
Thanks
I'm looking to buy a pair of Crocket & Jones Cordovan brown boots! But I also like to polish my shoes & boots! Thanks for the video! :-)
Love my Alden cordovan shoes. Low maintenance.
Do your cordovans breath as well as calfskin?
Can you do a comparison with Carmina vs Edmonds. I basically want to know the difference between US vs Spain made shoes
Thank you for the video Kirby. I have never owned a pair of shell Cordovan Allen Edmonds but I am debating on picking a pair up. With time my regular Allen Edmonds starts to crack on the uppers where the leather bends. Should that not be the case with the Shell Cordovans?
Hi Kirby, your new intro!! I thought I was watching a murder mystery
I several pairs of cordovan shoes from Alden as well as belts from same manufacturer. I find Alden a bit better than Allen Edmonds. You forgot to mention another big pro of cordovan and that is the fact that it is thicker than leather and that is adapts to the shape of your feet. The wear comfort becomes so much better over time.
I like the emojis, Kirby. Lightening it up a little bit. 🤓
am i just a snob? AE heels made with compressed paper or ???? just seems wrong, are the heels on these cordovan made from leather?
Question. Although I know and I'm sure you would recommend Cordovan specific shoe care products like conditioners and waxes would my Saphir conditioner, cream polish, and wax polish intended for calfskin work on Cordovan without any negative impacts?
No, please do not use shoe care products intended for calf skin on cordovan as they may be harmful for the material.
Love all your videos. A question that comes to mind - should one purchase the high end AE cordovan or a high end calf skin like G&G? Thank you in advance for your opinion
Jeff Brogan I would go with the shell. The average lifespan is +30 years, if reasonably maintained. Cost per year is something like $12. And they look spectacular.
That's a very good question. I'm looking at G and G right now with a 1000 to 1500 budget in calfskin but if ordered in cordavon they cost a huge amount more. Allen Edmund's in cordavan are an incredible value and they use supremely high quality cordavon just like used in 5000 bespoke shoes...I mean the same horween cordavan! It's like...do I order a Ferrari in steel...or a porsche in carbon fiber for a quarter of the price...again very good question!
brandon bentley I could not have said it better my self! Very true!!
The cordovan Allen Edmond are indestructible and last forever. I have 3 pair from over 20 years ago. Only one of them, a dark maroon, is showing signs of wear. I like the rubber soles better than the leather and they last as long.
never noticed the blank wall in your office before...
Are the Cordovans thicker and heavier than the calfskins?
Love it !
I tried with cordovan. I really did. However, I just can't shake the plasticky vibe these shoes give off. I do own them in Burgundy & Black. The Burgundy are ok. The Black...not so much.
Kirby, not sure if you've touched on AE's Independence line, but they're monumentally better than the main line. The Hopkinson's (Plain Toe Bal) are 11/10 the best AE shoe in the portfolio. Ridiculously high quality uppers, lamb-skin inner lining, and upgraded sole / heel are worth every penny.
Would love your review on the Independence Line (Hopkinson's, Bartlett, Jefferson).
I wonder if you would be willing to say that Allen Edmonds quality control has seen better days? This opinion is all over the internet and even their website reviews. I’ve purchased 3 pairs of their shoes now with QC issues every time. I was eventually able to get pairs that work but it was not the experience I was expecting at that price point. However, options are limited when you have a budget and size 14EEE feet.
John Gajkowski I’ve heard this from a ton of people. No doubt. For $100 you can have a pair of Carmina... seems worth the extra money to me. But it still a popular shoe.
Just learned shell-cordovan is available in: gloss and matte (non-gloss). Non-gloss is not rolled flat with glass rollers.
I don't know if black shell cordovan evolves/patinas, but other colors of shell definitely do...
They do patina, but not in a positive way, IMO. Looks more like an old tire...per the wife's comments. Lol!
3:01 “Cordavan is the work horse....” wait a minute.... horse....🤔😁
Sure it is, better than the calfskin version work cow
Excellent comparison of each types merits Kirby I know you have touched on exotic skins but would love a more in-depth look at exotic skins and how they compare. I don’t have Gator or Croc yet but have a pair of vintage made in America Justin full quill Ostrich skin cowboy boots which after contacting Justin found they were made as an exclusive order for a customer in 1985. It’s a fantastic material, durable and very very comfortable. Also I have a pair of Church’s Donntons in Deer which again are fantastically soft yet supportive
Where's Alden review?
Great video!! Kirby- do you have any brand/model recommendations for someone that is on their feet all day? I’m a retail manager and walk 8-10 miles per shift. It hard to find dress shoes comfortable enough for that...
Get another job?
Graham Morgan stop being an ass, and Kyle, for shoes you’ll be putting a lot of wear on, I am a personal fan of rubber soles. A pair of loafers would probably suit you best, as your feet will breathe easier and be more comfortable. Brands are one of those things you don’t necessarily need to focus on too much in your case, as I’d consider those “ beater shoes “. It also pays to get two pairs, rotate them, and use shoe trees.
Ecco shoes. Are not stylish but are very comfortable
Harrison Wedgeworth listen, the dude walks 8-10 miles A DAY running a retail store . That is the definition of a crap job. There are plenty of jobs out there, just man up and move on.
awesome video.
Wish they made these in Horween's Natural or Amaretto Cord...... otherwise amazing
I would add calf breaths better than cordovan and calf creases cordovan rolls. I’ve heard you and others state cordovan is more waterproof, however cordovan gets ugly welts when you get caught in the rain. Al that said, I would always buy cordovan over calf. Cordovan is amazing!
Has anyone here tried any of the Crown Northampton Cordovan dress casual sneakers?
Thank you.
I have 7 pair of calfskin Allen Edmond shoes. 2 monk strap, 1 pair of Leads, 1 Park Avenue, 1 penny loafer and 2 pair of dress chukka they don't offer any more. Some are more than 20 years old that I wore with my military uniforms.
Kirby said shell cordovan has a close-pore structure and it's not a proper leather but rather a membrane or a connective tissue. Does anybody know how breathable the shell cordovan footwear, boots in particular, is vs. calfskin?
Thank you in advance.
Apparently they used to demonstrate its breathability by blowing cigarette smoke straight through it back in the day, can't say myself since ive never seen it live
@@ZagorTeNayebo Interesting! Is smoking as bad for shoes as for their owners? 😁
I was a little confused by the suggestion at the end to go with the calfskin in black and the cordovan in burgundy. One of the major differences between the two seems to be that cordovan won't develop a patina, which seems less relevant in a black shoe. So it seems if you're thinking of going with Cordovan black would be ideal. Is the burgundy considered "iconic" because it's closer to its natural color?
His Burgundy recommendation was specifically for a color from Horween called their "#8". It's not nearer a natural color as it is dyed 8 times. It's just a very popular color. It can be confusing as sometimes you'll see creams and even non-cordovan shoes described as "Cordovan", when they are just referring to this color, and not the material itself.
Also (at least in my experience), although you're not generating a patina through wear, surface dyes and repeated waxing, you'll experience some natural colour variation and depth because of the movement of oils already impregnated into the Cordovan in the tanning process.
@@andyloucks #8 isn't the universal shade of burgundy shell. AE's burgundy and Alden's #8 look very different - part of that may be the finishing Alden does to the shell in their factory, but I don't think the AE shell is the same starting point. It tends to be a truer burgundy where the Alden (A) has more variability year to year and (B) usually has a purple/eggplant shade to it. Alden doesn't "own" #8 like it does some shades (e.g. Ravello), but the closest I've seen to their color are my vintage Florsheim shell longwings.
I think he recommended the black in calf because it can take a higher wax shine, and usually with black shoes you're going for the best shine possible.
It's just a recommendation if you're buying 2 pairs... if you own 10 then it becomes less an issue as you might end up owning both.
Excellent video! I just happened to stumble on to it. I am thinking about purchasing the Leeds Shell Cordovan Derby shoe $695.00 or the Leeds Dress Plain Toe Blucher shoe for $395.00. Undecided what are your thoughts? Is it a similar situation as described in this video? Thanks
I've had a pair of the Leeds cordovan for 15 years. Leather soles. My most comfortable and long-wearing shoes. The cordovan won't get the gloss shine but are easy to keep looking good, especially in black. Shoe trees or other interior support a must to keep the best shape.
Best advice: Buy them while they are on sale. Right now (April 2022), both the calf and the Shell Cordovan Leeds are about $100 below regular price. Were I ordering, I'd get a pair of the calf and pay $40 extra for Dainite rubber soles. The Dainite soles will last longer than leather soles and give you better traction, especially when it is wet outside.
I have a pair of Burgundy Leeds in Shell Cordovan, and a tan pair in calf. Both are attractive shoes. The sheen is a bit different between the two leathers, but I doubt any of your friends would notice a difference when you are wearing the shoes unless the friends have read up on the two leathers.
Awesome! 🤠👍
These are nice shoes, but I prefer Alden straight tips and many other English brands including Church's, Edward Green and John Lobb. While I have owned several Oxfords, I now prefer Chelsea boots and Jodphur ankle boots for casual and business attire.
Hi Kirby! Is there a reason you never review Alden? Or have I missed something? Alden is very famous for its Cordovan shoes.
Allen Edmonds provides him the shoes...
Significantly significant
How can you tell the difference between Oxblood and Cordovan?
The colors are quite similar, to be honest, if not the same. Here we are differentiating Cordovan leather (from horse) from calfskin (from cow). This is different than color, which cordovan and oxblood can both be used to describe.
2:12 I don't agree when you said, cordovan leather is not leather.
They're both leather, one comes from a cow or a calf the other from the horse. Although from the butt, still leather. Also different tanning and processing, but that's with most leathers. Personally I'm a big fan of horween leathers, specially the chromexcel.
Another good video..thanks.
However...recommend one pair of black cap toes, and one pair of black plain toes
....as wearing cap toes with a tux can be done, but it's just not right.
Obviously, which pair of shoes is in cordovan or calfskin is a personal choice, and works fine.
emoji game on point 😂
Fine. You're the best
Last week I saw someone selling a pair of penny loafers on the street for 2.93dollars. I look at it closely and saw a logo of Alden "I was like 😃😯😲😱😱😱😱" I bought it immediately even though it is sooooo stiff and hard just like a rock. I don't have an experience of restoring stiff shoes but caN you help me kirby how to make it soft again. Thank you
I searched for the model of the shoe and it is Alden 986
Saphir Renovateur by Avel is probably your best product
Want some Shell Cordovan sneakers...
How about a comparison between Allen Edmonds VS Alden Cordovan?
Ergun Uluc they’re both Horween so it would come down to the style
@@The_Kavalier To expand a bit, the finishing of the shell is a bit different between AE and Alden (Alden does some additional finish/coloring at the factory, and adds an acrylic coating) that results in an appearance that is pretty strikingly different between AE and Alden in the non-black colors. AE also has brown shell more regularly available than Alden. However, as you said, they both use Horween's fantastic shell, so there's not a downside to either in that respect.
Significantly explained
Everyone should have 1 pair of Cordovans in the rotation. It's a great material, but doesn't work on all occasions. It's less formal and elegant than a good calfskin shoe.
Do the cordovan let the foot breath as well as calfskin?
nope. cordovan does not breathe. since its not the skin of the animal. thats why cordovan is not v suitable for hot n humid climates.
Is it dead calf or you kill the calf , thats the question
Here in Chicago? At 1:20. I thought you lived in Texas. Did I miss something?
Jon Walker I think he meant “ here “ as in the United States
People buy cordovan shoes often because of how they patina over time from wear and uv exposure
3rd runner up
rubber out sole are the best, they last forever n just need to change the top life only.
Have various calf and cordovan models from AE, Alden, and Carmina. Cordovan > calf for this guy. Tougher, deals better with rain and snow, and much easier to maintain. Calf isn't without its' charm but +1 for cordovan
Gregory Wirtz I find it hard to believe that you would say that cordovan does well in rain/snow
@@RacksonRacksonRibss I know, I know, people think I'm crazy when I say this. But honestly it works out great. I wear a pair of Alden boots with commando soles in the snow (number 8) and those or shell gunboats or black shell captoes in the rain. Quickly wipe them off and brush when needed but they look great after years of this treatment. (VSC one or twice a year, way better than Saphir cordovan cream imo. Have both, use both but VSC works better for me.) I try to keep whiskey shell out of the elements but for black and number 8, give it a try!
Gregory Wirtz I have given it a try with #8 and it gets water spots/welts that are difficult to get off even with A LOT of brushing. According to a brief google search it seems that some people have had my experience while some have had yours. ...so you didn’t use Alden leather defender or some other product on them?
@@RacksonRacksonRibss No sir, mainly just brush and VSC. No welts on several pairs of Alden or AE shell. Some with Carmina oddly enough but those are whiskey so I try and keep those away from too much water so they don't darken. Good luck!
Hi Kirby. As far as I'm aware, Allen Edmonds' cordovan shoes are not too far from the prices of shoemakers like Gaziano & Girling or Vass. Do you think that Allen Edmonds' cordovan shoes provide better "bang for buck" than higher end calfskin leather shoes?
No
No
No
Yea, no they are not. AE shell cordovans are MSRP 700. You’re average calfskin GG is a bit higher, I think.
Cordovan is much more hard wearing and low maintenance, but much less sleek and elegant, even in the AE's Balmoral style.
Unfortunately Allen Edmonds are out of price in Europe (especially in Cordovan) ☹️
Get Crocket & Jones Cordovans. They're excellent (way better than AE). American shoes are overpriced in Europe.
You guys have carmina
When buying cordovan make sure the fit is near perfect. Cordovan gives less than calfskin. Cordovan will mold to your feet to some extend but if you have too much air around your foot you might prematurely wear out the inner lining. Cordovan are shoes that you will love, but they don't do mirror shine well so chose the material for appropriate styles.
I’m an US Army vet. I love the mirror shine.
I also enjoy polishing my dress shoes. OTOH, I wear dress shoes only occasionally.
mcspirit I don’t understand where this opinion comes from that cordovan doesn’t mirror shine well. It does... it’s just that most ppl who own them prefer the natural soft shine it provides. A lot of Japanese guys on Instagram mirror shine the HELL out of cordovan.
@@RacksonRacksonRibss personal experience. I've also seen those IG posts, still isn't easy to do. 'Gentle shoeshine' has several videos on achieving a mirror shine. Kirby also did a video on it. Yet doing mirror on calf is still much easier.
Alden has the best shell cordovan shoes.
I have the Crocket & Jones Bradford in black Shell. Still looks like new after more than 5 years
I will check those out. I will be in London over the holidays.
I own a pair of $50 Rockport and I am happy with it. I was born and grew up in India. In my childhood, I wasn't able to own a pair of sandals or shoes because my parents never had the wealth of buying something exotic. Yes, slippers are exotic when I was little, shoes are for rich people.
Interesting story however I do not have a clue on how it is relevant to the video. Cheap shoes have their place but having cheap shoes is more expensive than owning one expensive shoe
Wear what makes you feel good
Enjoy what you have in great health.
The Saphir shoe polish required for the life of the calf skin will add up to over $200😂
Saphir is not required, that’s top of the line
First
ugh. Completely ignoring price: Black cordovan is a waste of perfectly good cordovan. It takes on color so beautifully. Don't make it black.
Actually Cordovan will patina over time.
Just found out cordovan is leather from a horse’s butt, so in the future I can just use a horse’s butt to kick another butt? 😂
AA are too flat on mid sole. Not ideal fitting
2nd🤣
I only walk in shell toes, otherwise you are a peasant or farmer.
Why does this guy always have to say the FULL name of everything? It's gotten kinda annoying after just three videos with this guy narrating.