Opel Nissan Vauxhall Renault hard to start van No Specialist Tools
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- Опубліковано 23 лип 2022
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tips and tricks inside this video hopefully help you
don't forget get your hands dirty
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Due to factors beyond the control of Bodgit And Leggit Garage, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Bodgit And Leggit Garage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Bodgit And Leggit Garage recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Bodgit And Leggit Garage, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained
#hardtostart #dieselnostart #diy - Авто та транспорт
This video is just to show you with simple step-by-step Mindset and simple tools what you can achieve
Great old school thinking!! You don't post nearly enough Leon. Thanks
Great work Leon! Back to the basics 😁 Ohmmeter not good for continuity checks... Instead just put a second test light at the other end of the wire from B+; if both bulbs are dim then continuity is good 👌
Appreciate the basic tools trouble shooting video. There is not much on the internet for how a non-mechanic can find a problem in the wiring and relay/controller. I'm going to take a look at my sister's car later today and see what I can find,
Hi I work on these vans every day and the glow plugs don’t stop the van starting even in cold weather of England. I noticed that you were leaving it long enough for the immobiliser light to go out before turning the key to crank the engine. Most drivers just turn the to crank straight away which should start it , the problem has nearly always been a faulty air mass meter or connections to it and it probably revs up slowly lacking power setting off. Letting the immo light go out bypasses the fault.
Just to let you know hope you don’t mind.
good logical work out and a 70 amp fuse I do not think I have ever seen one before hope you are well thanks for the video
Boom! Sorted! Good work Leon, and well done showing people how to find faults.
Belt & Braces. Just love it. See you in another one.
Love this format of videos. Showing the basic diag methods. Thanks for sharing.
Old school skills 👏👏👏
Well done Leon,I love old school diagnostics,good job !
Good job sharing
Great Vid Leon 👍
Great video going to watch all the channel videos seen a few thanks very good mate
Thanks
Brilliant leon,spot on
Nice work
Leon the professional
Always happy to see you posting a video mate
BOOM GOES THE PROFESSIONAL 💥
Leon glad to see your so posting. Very basic yet informative video. Thanks for sharing SORTED 👍 Artie
Thanks for another AWESOME video Leon, i'm so glad your 'Pain ' has gone away (a couple of years ago live stream,i recommended certain foods and a change of diet) you're far too clever to be consigned to history, we need your valuable input on all things related with car's 🙂👍, keep on posting please, you should realistically have around 2 Billion followers, and a Trillion likes with thumbs up by now. 😎 Take care Bless man. 😇
hi good video mate.i noticed when you put your test lamp from battery positive to the glow plug tip it was very bright and after your put in a new fuse and checked with the test lamp again the light seemed a lot dimmer.maybe still a fault or short.
Thanks will check this out tomorrow evening
Great job! But it's absolutely criminal that the previous mechanic just threw in a new set of plugs and didn't even check if they're getting power.
Hope the customer left a bad review for them so that other people don't get caught out..
The question is , was he a mechanic or a parts changer....!
I would say the latter...... 👍
Very helpful thanks.
Now that was very interesting. I'm going to make quite a long comment having a little while ago ressurected an identical van with a number of issues, and so very cheap. I also took the ground up approach, in my case just to see if I could.
One of the things, I went through all that you just did. Different problem, but sorted. It concerned me how quickly the dash heater plug light went off. Now a year later I can say it starts up straight even on cold frosty mornings, no prob. Seems to be the way they are.
I have had one breakdown. Tootling along everything lovely - engine cut out. Even before I had rolled to a stop I thought - the diesel has cut off. Did all the usual - pipes filter etc. Checked the crankshaft and cam sensors. Then I did use a computer, couldn't think of any other way to ascertain the fuel rail pressure. Fuel control solonoid "circuit open or shorted". It has a white wire to the ECU. The ECU has loads of white wires going to it. I have a workshop manual - no engine wiring diagram. I hunted the internet, I used a VPN for different search results and all sorts of trickery - no engine diagram. I ended up dismantling the wiring loom to find out which plug the wire went to. Then reassembling it afterwards. By far it was the longest part of the job. It was a faulty fuel control solonoid. This overloads the injection pump which causes a couple of "O" rings inside to burst - So causing the pump to just wash. Thus protecting the injection pipes etc. The "O" rings are cheap, the pump is expensive. If someone is paying for your time it is doubtless cheapest and most certain to change the pump.
Be delighted if you know where an engine wiring diagram is available.
BTW in the history it showed the fuel rail pressure rising sharply to a ridiculous pressure then fall to only a couple of bars.
What was that pressure?
If the Glowplugs are connected in parallel , with a common metal strip or wire, your first test would not show up a faulty glowplug. Disconnecting the wires to the glowplugs and then doing that test would be the only way to be sure.
Pointless comment as you can clearly see they’re not connected in parallel..
@@gm1777 Not pointless at all , it might be obvious to you and me but there will be people watching who would not now that. After all we can't all be smart arses.
Great video Leon, big fan of old school diag. Can I ask what were those plugs for at 18:58 ?? Thakks
Water heater to assist warming of the coolant I believe
THANK YOU!
That light is not for the glow plugs. It's a light for the MIL.
Gud Vid..👍
👍👍
Hi mate, I want to clean my Ford Fiesta 2007 1.25l throttle body and I was wondering if there is a procedure I should perform or if it’s ok to just take it off and clean with correct cleaning solvents. Thanks 🙏 I’m only asking because I’ve seen so much conflicting information on forums etc. thanks.
Damn. I got excited that I have the same problem until no power at the glow plug module. I have a Renault trafic 2008 with no glow plug light showing (van just stopped suddenly and wouldn’t restart). All fuses good, good glow plugs, new gpm, relays good. Getting 11.8V on small wires in gpm. No codes on my scan tool. Frustrating indeed 😩
I had the same problem. I paid for a mobile electric mechanic who was useless. Sold the van as spares or repairs, even though worth 3k. A bloke bought it on ebay and later told me it was a frayed wire on the ECU. Gutted..!
@@philipgunnell108 Yeah. My ecu was replaced with a second hand one and is now running again 🤑😰
Where is the glow plug relay for my Renault master 2.2. 53 plate pls. The power to the plugs last only for5 second which not long enough to glow the plugs
I have a vauxhall vivaro with a constant red immobiliser light, i've tried everything and i can't sort it...
was working one day and then not the following day
Jet washing probably shorted the circuit
I did that.
Washed the van and it hasnt started since