Steve, I am a fairly new wood worker. I am a high school math teacher who officiates around 325 contests per year (yes, almost one a day). With the sports world shutting down in March, I have suddenly found myself with a LOT of extra time on my hands. I have been exceedingly frustrated and somewhat embarrassed by how long it can take me to complete projects. I would watch people on UA-cam build fancy stuff in 17 minutes and 34 seconds!! What was wrong with me?? Then, I found your channel. I have watched through day 95 without commenting. Now, I just have to say "THANK YOU!!" Your honesty and transparency with the struggles you encounter have completely freed me to continue with my own struggles. You are also hilarious!! I just wanted to say, from one teacher to another, "well done". You are so right; the mental gymnastics and problem solving along the way are what keep me going back to to garage time after time. I also need to adopt your attitude about stepping away when I get too tired or frustrated. A time or two, I've kept going too long. Nothing good has ever happened in those situations. Any way, thank you again, and keep up the great work! You have a real gift for teaching. You explain things well, and you also obviously LOVE the process. That makes watching you interesting as well as informative.
You are one hell of a guy Steve. You have made me a better woodworker and a better person. Your ability to capture an audience and keep the mood a happy one is incredible. I love the kind acts and humility. Thank you and God speed.
This is one of the things I like in knowing woodworking...you can customize anything and build anything to your needs....something you can't buy off shelf and its priceless ! Good job!!! Enjoy your new drill bit set .
Steve - Thank you for this series. Not only is it like a morning cup of coffee for me, it has taught me that its OK to not finish - even the simplest - projects in a single day. My birthday was the first day of our quarantine, here in Ohio. My wife gave me a new table saw...an ACTUAL Rigid table saw...so I've spent the last 4 months re-organizing my garage work space to accommodate that monster, while also making the space more usable and modular. I've done flip top tool tables, french cleat systems, a miter station, and am constantly updating and coming up with more projects. Something as simple as you saying "I think I'll leave it off here for today and let the glue dry" has given me "permission" to not finish the job in one day. It prevents me from rushing through. If I want to escape to the garage, I take my time, and pay attention to details. My projects have been mainly utilitarian, but in many cases, being "allowed" to "stop here for today to let the glue dry" has afforded me the chance to think and re-think my plans, add artistic flair, even scrap and start over. ** My wife probably doesn't appreciate me extending my projects in her parking space...but I certainly do. Thank you so much...and stay healthy
Turned out great Steve! I like the comment about using pencil to label sizes then cover in lacquer...recently I tried something similar with sharpie on a drill index I made. One coat of poly, then sharpie on that (made labeling easier and kept from bleeding into the wood) then two coats of poly on top after the sharpie was plenty dry. I’m happy with the result 👍 So nice to have organization and no more fiddling through a pile of drills for the right size.
Ohhhh noooo, you use screws to secure this absolutely perfect board. This level of perfection screamed hidden pocket holes. I love it (without the screws)
I bought a basic 5 part forstner bit set a couple of years ago just to have one. I'm not a woodworker I just like to make things and tinkering with stuff. When I made that hollywood mirror for my GF 2 weeks ago I needed to drill a lot of holes for the light fixtures and turned out the set was useless, it ranged from 15mm to 35mm with 5mm steps but what I needed was 28mm. 25 was to tight, 30 was too loose. So I ended up buying separately a 26 and a 28mm bit, they weren't cheap but I was blown away how good they were! Much better than the ones in the set. I think I'll make more mirrors like that so I put my tools to good use. By the was, I'm a datawarehouse developer but I follow you since about 2012 and I took the courage to start building stuff despite living in a flat :)
Great job again, Steve, very interesting and fun to watch. To keep the one with smaller "neck" on the shank, @8:06, you could place a small block (maybe about an inch tall) next to the one you glued for the short bit, drill a hole the same size as the shank but make the hole fluted so it's larger at the top; like a more gradual countersink. This would keep the bottom of the shank held straight ant the top is held as all of them are. It wouldn't wiggle then!
Wow! I love these kinds of videos! Thank you, for making every day good! I have noticed, that when you use Forstner bits you drill the hole true from one side. But here in Latvia (small country, just over the side of the pond :D), we use the technique of drilling from one side, till the center of the Forstner bit gets true the material you are drilling and then flip it and drill from the other side. In this technique, you will never get tear-out on the other side, and you don't have to worry about the condition of your support for drilling. Any tear-out you could get is in the place where those two "holes" meet, and you can get that fixed with your vertical round sander ( I don't know if it is the right name for it :D). This is just a recommendation that could help you with drilling with Forstner bits. And the last thing I want to tell you is - keep making these types of videos. For me, they have helped a lot. Thank you very much!
If you want to get a bit fancy you could get a can of spray foam. Line the bottom of the drawer with plastic wrap, spray a good layer of foam, cover with more plastic and smooth. Then put the insert with the bits back in and let it cure. Custom shaped foam cushioning to hold all the shanks exactly where you want them.
First of all, I feel like wives never understand the work and thought woodworking takes and your videos exemplify that. Secondly, your decision on how to proceed was not over thought, it was sufficiently thought and I think it was the most appropriate choice. Well done.
I did this basic idea but in a box not a drawer, and put mine in drilling side up and in the bottom of the box, about three inches deep, I drilled holes the diamter of the bit shank to fit the bits in to keep them from shifting around.
I've bought that course, and while I don't have room for all the projects, it was well worth the money. My favorite so far has been the miter saw stand. I'm 3 projects in, and I plan on making 3 (maybe 4) more.
I've been really enjoying all of your videos, Steve. One thought on your drawers (well, the cabinet's drawers) is that, given that you made them considerably shorter than the depth of the cabinet, you could have made the sides almost the full depth of the cabinet, while still placing the back where you located it. Then, you can pull out the entire drawer (to reach to the back) and it will hang on with the extra length of the sides. The only other change would be that you would need to have the cabinet back right at the back of the carcass. I probably have to build that cabinet now, as I just bought a used 12" drill press to replace the 8" one that just isn't up to some tasks. The cabinet I made for it seems a tad undersized. Poor me.
There are soldering iron styling wood burning kits which have precision tips that work quite well for burn/engraving/marking/detailing. Relatively inexpensive and easy to use, and I think usually looks nice also. Small investment that you can have fun with.
One of the reasons I enjoy your channel is that not only do you read the comments, but you also take on suggests put forward by your fans. I know too many people and UA-cam channels who are too proud to accept any help or input from their followers (the people who got them to their status in the first place).
Hey Steve, in the past I've used a small drop of clear glue to seal in writing, if you dont have lacquer lying around. Simple finger glue is fine. But you need to try it first, to see if the ink doesn't blot when applying the glue
As you assert, Steve - a super-satisfying project - & one that I shall be emulating, pretty soon (hosptial work, notwithstanding). Stay safe, all, Andrew :D
If it’s hard to pick the bits up, you could put a layer of foam under the sides, to act as a spring. You can then push down on the face to make the bits « pop up » to make them easier to pick up
1. You might think about drilling a finger hole in the main board so you can lift it out of the drawer more easily. Or do you just pull out one of the big bits and use that hole? 2. Gluing the small block to the drawer rather than to the bit holder means that that bit will always fall out of there if you ever lift the holder out of the drawer, plus... 3. If you ever decide to move the bits and use that drawer for something else, you'll have to knock that small block off and put one in the new location. Otherwise, well done. Someday all of my crap will be stored on a proper place.
jjohnston94 it looks like he intends to always just take the whole drawer out if needed. Personally, I can’t think of many times when multiple Forster bits are needed at the same time, so probably won’t even take them all out much.
In the previous video of this project,Steve said, that he will take the whole drawer to the place where he needs to drill tht hole. So he just made the drawer as a box for Fostner bits.
For the small holes, you could have an elongated eyelet. Drill a hole large enough for the shank, then cut a slot narrower than the hole to support the head of the bit? Kinda like mounting a power strip on the wall
Regarding the foam idea... If you want a quick and dirty way to keep the shafts from moving much, cut a piece of rigid foam insulation (available for a few bucks at the big box stores to fit the bottom of the drawer, then press the shanks of the bits into it. I keep a few pieces of rigid foam insulation around for cutting up sheet goods and boards with the circular saw, as the foam is firm enough to support the wood yet is cut easily by the saw blade and doesn't gunk up the blade. For a fancier way to do something similar, you can try squirting spray foam from a can into a plastic bag at the bottom of the drawer, then seal the bag and gently press the shanks into the foam (without piercing the bag) before the foam sets too much. That's basically an at-home way of making custom shaped foam packing protection when shipping fragile objects.
Glue a block beneath the small bits and drill a pocket into it to hold the shank at the same depth as the larger bits. The pockets will laterally support the lower shank and will come out with the insert of you lift it out of the drawer.
Hi steve, just like to say, I dont know how I would have got though this 3 months with out you and my workshop so a big thank you and here is hoping I go back to work on 1st July but will still keep watching
I would drill a half-circle finger hole in the top of the flat board to make it easier to pull out. Love how it turned out, especially how it is a drawer that acts as a mobile box.
Hay Steve I just purchased the drill set you received as a gift I had been looking to buy some and liked the hex shaft of yours.Turns out they are on sale so I saved a little money. Based on your unboxing video I expected them to be loose when I opened them to my surprise everyone was in it's slot non were rubbing each other maybe they had been through one of CAs many tremors. One thing I did notice as I cleaned off the oil was they all had a burr on the cutting edge which would interfere with the drilling process. It didn't take long with a small file to remove the burr. thought you might want to examine yours befor you use them enjoy. That said like your vids just not a cat person :-)
I just had an epiphany on your smallest row with the shanks larger than the head. Glue a 1x or a 2x underneath the holes to act as part of your support and drill them through (or to an appropriate depth) the size of the shank. The bits won't wobble, nor will they get hung up when removing them.
I think graphite may not fade but it can rub off (that's where lacquer comes handy). Funny thing is those Frixion pens, during college a classmate of mine used it on a written report (engineering writing) and because it was left on a room with direct sunlight, during checking of my professor it's just a blank paper.
Fore the smallest set of sises: block of wood underneath and drill a hole all most all the way thru. Or the block of foam (like the one you use to cut down large plywood)
Hi there, I'm one of those who suggested that method you talk about at the beginning of the video and, I must admit, I didn't think about that alignment problem you mention, my bad. But at the same time I'm listening to you mentioning it, I'm thinking that's not a problem at all, it has a simple fix. Well, it's not even a fix if you are not fixing anything but preventing something from happening, but still. You just need a couple of bits, or three for some extra reassurement. You just pick three of those bits, just choose any three that create a triangle when placed in their respective positions, the bigger the triangle the better this works. So, you just glue the boards and put those bits in place right before clamping both boards. If the holes are made in the right locations, you are now sure both boards are perfectly aligned. Moreover, you might had both boards misaligned in the beginning and now you would have replicated the exact same misalignenmet, therefore every bit would fit and you would just need to sand, trim or whatever the edges of the boards so they are flush. Once that I've written this, I'll keep watching the video.
To get rid of the wiggle of the smaller bits, you could have attached a block below the first row with holes corresponding with the alignment, length, and width of the shanks :)
I know 3 years later but here a suggestion. Everything under 9/16 should be Brad Point bits. So from 1/2" to 1/16" eliminating the problem of the Forstner bit slipping through the hole. You will also get a cleaner finish with the Brad Point bits.
I think you should add a little handle thingy on the top of the board, like with those wooden crates so it's easier to lift out of the drawer if needed.
if you glue the block to the drawer then if you want to take the forstner bit holder out and use it as a drawer again you will have a random block in the drawer. I would have glued it to the organiser so when removed you have a drawer back nice and clean.
Pencils were a huge upgrade over pens back in the day. The graphite from pencils never fades. Plus it’s smug resistant immediately after application. This was one of the small things that helped napoleon in battle so much. His scouts and spys used pencils so they could fold up their reports and move immediately. Where his opponents had to wait for their ink to dry first or risk smudging the whole report.
Concerning the use if foam in the bottom of the box, what about getting a can of spray insulation foam and spraying it in a bag like some shippers do so that the packing conforms to the contents? Perhaps put the bag in the box and spray the foam inside then close the lid so that it confirms to the contours. After it sets, just run the drill bit through the holes for the shanks. Just my two cents worth.
Hello Steve, Great videos ... very educational !! .. I have a comment about how to organize the place. I myself have replaced all wooden drawers with transparent IKEA boxes. It's not that artisanal ... I know. But I can now see exactly what is where ... and especially what is in the drawer without having to open them all first. I put a sticker on it (also easier with plastic) and seal it with packing tape ... But not so much fun to make ;-) ... thanks for all your videos ... greetings from the Netherlands, Roger
Hi Steve, been enjoying your videos for awhile now, thanks and keep on vlogging!!! Anyway, you may need to put another way to hold the last oddly shaped shank bit, else when you lift the whole thing, i.e. lift off the drawers, the last odd-shaped bit will fall off. Unless the plan is for you to carry the whole drawer... Stay safe!!!
May I suggest drilling half-round finger holes on each end of the main board? This would provide access to the underside, when (not if, because you will) need access? I know you will have to be careful to keep the bits from falling out, so that is a concern. But the finger holes will make it easier to pull that board up.
For the smaller bits can't you attach a block under neath and drill the shank hole just deep enough so they all match at the same hight. Also that would solve the problem of loose fitting bits.
Another method of labelling, and the one that I use is a wood burner/soldering iron. Anything that I make and give to someone get my initials and the date burned into it in a discrete location.
Really nice project. Things you could use in place of foam are felt, flannel, or cut a styrofoam meat/produce tray or just cardboard. Do you ever add dates and maker labels to your projects? When you mentioned the antique piece I thought about that. Someone in the future might appreciate it. Thanks for all you do.
Steve, I am a fairly new wood worker. I am a high school math teacher who officiates around 325 contests per year (yes, almost one a day). With the sports world shutting down in March, I have suddenly found myself with a LOT of extra time on my hands. I have been exceedingly frustrated and somewhat embarrassed by how long it can take me to complete projects. I would watch people on UA-cam build fancy stuff in 17 minutes and 34 seconds!! What was wrong with me?? Then, I found your channel. I have watched through day 95 without commenting. Now, I just have to say "THANK YOU!!" Your honesty and transparency with the struggles you encounter have completely freed me to continue with my own struggles. You are also hilarious!! I just wanted to say, from one teacher to another, "well done". You are so right; the mental gymnastics and problem solving along the way are what keep me going back to to garage time after time. I also need to adopt your attitude about stepping away when I get too tired or frustrated. A time or two, I've kept going too long. Nothing good has ever happened in those situations.
Any way, thank you again, and keep up the great work! You have a real gift for teaching. You explain things well, and you also obviously LOVE the process. That makes watching you interesting as well as informative.
You are one hell of a guy Steve. You have made me a better woodworker and a better person. Your ability to capture an audience and keep the mood a happy one is incredible. I love the kind acts and humility. Thank you and God speed.
Well thank you!
This is one of the things I like in knowing woodworking...you can customize anything and build anything to your needs....something you can't buy off shelf and its priceless ! Good job!!! Enjoy your new drill bit set .
Steve - Thank you for this series. Not only is it like a morning cup of coffee for me, it has taught me that its OK to not finish - even the simplest - projects in a single day. My birthday was the first day of our quarantine, here in Ohio. My wife gave me a new table saw...an ACTUAL Rigid table saw...so I've spent the last 4 months re-organizing my garage work space to accommodate that monster, while also making the space more usable and modular. I've done flip top tool tables, french cleat systems, a miter station, and am constantly updating and coming up with more projects. Something as simple as you saying "I think I'll leave it off here for today and let the glue dry" has given me "permission" to not finish the job in one day. It prevents me from rushing through. If I want to escape to the garage, I take my time, and pay attention to details. My projects have been mainly utilitarian, but in many cases, being "allowed" to "stop here for today to let the glue dry" has afforded me the chance to think and re-think my plans, add artistic flair, even scrap and start over. ** My wife probably doesn't appreciate me extending my projects in her parking space...but I certainly do. Thank you so much...and stay healthy
Wow, this was the whole reason I opened UA-cam and it was uploaded 1 minute ago.. what perfect timing
After you put in that block, and all the pieces are in, it's so satisfying!
Turned out great Steve! I like the comment about using pencil to label sizes then cover in lacquer...recently I tried something similar with sharpie on a drill index I made. One coat of poly, then sharpie on that (made labeling easier and kept from bleeding into the wood) then two coats of poly on top after the sharpie was plenty dry. I’m happy with the result 👍 So nice to have organization and no more fiddling through a pile of drills for the right size.
The OCD love-to-organize part of my brain loved this. That is a thing of beauty.
Very cool way to hold forstner bits Steve. You clearly put a lot of thought into the design and functionality.
If i make a drawer for holding forstner bits I'll have the head of the bit facing down. I don't like the idea of having something sharp facing up.
Ohhhh noooo, you use screws to secure this absolutely perfect board. This level of perfection screamed hidden pocket holes. I love it (without the screws)
@@katjapia8206 , oh yeah my thought exactly. 😂
Great... now I have to rebuild my (crappy) forstner bit storage solution. Thanks Steve for putting more work on my plate!
Great Way To Store The Forstner Bits !
I bought a basic 5 part forstner bit set a couple of years ago just to have one. I'm not a woodworker I just like to make things and tinkering with stuff. When I made that hollywood mirror for my GF 2 weeks ago I needed to drill a lot of holes for the light fixtures and turned out the set was useless, it ranged from 15mm to 35mm with 5mm steps but what I needed was 28mm. 25 was to tight, 30 was too loose. So I ended up buying separately a 26 and a 28mm bit, they weren't cheap but I was blown away how good they were! Much better than the ones in the set. I think I'll make more mirrors like that so I put my tools to good use. By the was, I'm a datawarehouse developer but I follow you since about 2012 and I took the courage to start building stuff despite living in a flat :)
Steve Ramsey makes this world a better place.
Great job again, Steve, very interesting and fun to watch. To keep the one with smaller "neck" on the shank, @8:06, you could place a small block (maybe about an inch tall) next to the one you glued for the short bit, drill a hole the same size as the shank but make the hole fluted so it's larger at the top; like a more gradual countersink. This would keep the bottom of the shank held straight ant the top is held as all of them are. It wouldn't wiggle then!
Thanks for all the great videos Steve!
Wow! I love these kinds of videos! Thank you, for making every day good! I have noticed, that when you use Forstner bits you drill the hole true from one side. But here in Latvia (small country, just over the side of the pond :D), we use the technique of drilling from one side, till the center of the Forstner bit gets true the material you are drilling and then flip it and drill from the other side. In this technique, you will never get tear-out on the other side, and you don't have to worry about the condition of your support for drilling. Any tear-out you could get is in the place where those two "holes" meet, and you can get that fixed with your vertical round sander ( I don't know if it is the right name for it :D). This is just a recommendation that could help you with drilling with Forstner bits. And the last thing I want to tell you is - keep making these types of videos. For me, they have helped a lot. Thank you very much!
If you want to get a bit fancy you could get a can of spray foam. Line the bottom of the drawer with plastic wrap, spray a good layer of foam, cover with more plastic and smooth. Then put the insert with the bits back in and let it cure. Custom shaped foam cushioning to hold all the shanks exactly where you want them.
Using registration pins makes sure two items can be put back together perfectly.
Came down here to say exactly that :-).
If you use dowels you can trim them flush and have an "extra fancy" finish feature.
Really like how the bits are stored, nice job
First of all, I feel like wives never understand the work and thought woodworking takes and your videos exemplify that. Secondly, your decision on how to proceed was not over thought, it was sufficiently thought and I think it was the most appropriate choice. Well done.
I did this basic idea but in a box not a drawer, and put mine in drilling side up and in the bottom of the box, about three inches deep, I drilled holes the diamter of the bit shank to fit the bits in to keep them from shifting around.
I've bought that course, and while I don't have room for all the projects, it was well worth the money. My favorite so far has been the miter saw stand. I'm 3 projects in, and I plan on making 3 (maybe 4) more.
Glad you liked the foam idea :)
I've been really enjoying all of your videos, Steve. One thought on your drawers (well, the cabinet's drawers) is that, given that you made them considerably shorter than the depth of the cabinet, you could have made the sides almost the full depth of the cabinet, while still placing the back where you located it. Then, you can pull out the entire drawer (to reach to the back) and it will hang on with the extra length of the sides. The only other change would be that you would need to have the cabinet back right at the back of the carcass. I probably have to build that cabinet now, as I just bought a used 12" drill press to replace the 8" one that just isn't up to some tasks. The cabinet I made for it seems a tad undersized. Poor me.
I am loving this new format. I look forward to each new post
And a week from now, Steve’s garage is full of foam!
There are soldering iron styling wood burning kits which have precision tips that work quite well for burn/engraving/marking/detailing. Relatively inexpensive and easy to use, and I think usually looks nice also. Small investment that you can have fun with.
A label maker is easily the #1 tool in my shop.
One of the reasons I enjoy your channel is that not only do you read the comments, but you also take on suggests put forward by your fans. I know too many people and UA-cam channels who are too proud to accept any help or input from their followers (the people who got them to their status in the first place).
Hey Steve, in the past I've used a small drop of clear glue to seal in writing, if you dont have lacquer lying around. Simple finger glue is fine. But you need to try it first, to see if the ink doesn't blot when applying the glue
Pretty nice Mr. Steve...thanks for posting.
As you assert, Steve - a super-satisfying project - & one that I shall be emulating, pretty soon (hosptial work, notwithstanding). Stay safe, all,
Andrew :D
If it’s hard to pick the bits up, you could put a layer of foam under the sides, to act as a spring. You can then push down on the face to make the bits « pop up » to make them easier to pick up
I like the choice you took, simple for my head.
What an improvement!
Much better!
Well done!
😎👍🏻
I love the ‘ad spots’, they just seem so personal
Looks like an eye chart 😂 as an optometry student I approve 👍
Good solution. Thanks for sharing.
1. You might think about drilling a finger hole in the main board so you can lift it out of the drawer more easily. Or do you just pull out one of the big bits and use that hole?
2. Gluing the small block to the drawer rather than to the bit holder means that that bit will always fall out of there if you ever lift the holder out of the drawer, plus...
3. If you ever decide to move the bits and use that drawer for something else, you'll have to knock that small block off and put one in the new location.
Otherwise, well done. Someday all of my crap will be stored on a proper place.
jjohnston94 it looks like he intends to always just take the whole drawer out if needed. Personally, I can’t think of many times when multiple Forster bits are needed at the same time, so probably won’t even take them all out much.
In the previous video of this project,Steve said, that he will take the whole drawer to the place where he needs to drill tht hole. So he just made the drawer as a box for Fostner bits.
For the small holes, you could have an elongated eyelet. Drill a hole large enough for the shank, then cut a slot narrower than the hole to support the head of the bit? Kinda like mounting a power strip on the wall
That turned out very awesome, i liked it.
Nice job Steve!
That turned out very nice Steve. I enjoy the videos, thank you.
Regarding the foam idea... If you want a quick and dirty way to keep the shafts from moving much, cut a piece of rigid foam insulation (available for a few bucks at the big box stores to fit the bottom of the drawer, then press the shanks of the bits into it. I keep a few pieces of rigid foam insulation around for cutting up sheet goods and boards with the circular saw, as the foam is firm enough to support the wood yet is cut easily by the saw blade and doesn't gunk up the blade.
For a fancier way to do something similar, you can try squirting spray foam from a can into a plastic bag at the bottom of the drawer, then seal the bag and gently press the shanks into the foam (without piercing the bag) before the foam sets too much. That's basically an at-home way of making custom shaped foam packing protection when shipping fragile objects.
This is adorable 😍
Thanks for doing this video.
great video Steve. Very satisfying to watch! I dunno about others, bu all this 8ths of inch crap reminds me of how lucky we are to have metric.
And makes me wish we did. Whats the next size up after 9mm? Easy that's 10mm. The next size up from 5/8 uh hang on while i do fractions.
Glue a block beneath the small bits and drill a pocket into it to hold the shank at the same depth as the larger bits. The pockets will laterally support the lower shank and will come out with the insert of you lift it out of the drawer.
Great project!
Hi steve, just like to say, I dont know how I would have got though this 3 months with out you and my workshop so a big thank you and here is hoping I go back to work on 1st July but will still keep watching
Another great project
Maybe do a hole on that "top" part so you can easily pull everything out if you need? Like a handle
That’s what I came to say. Add some holes or cutouts to give you something to easily pull out the insert.
Or a dowel sticking half way out, like a tab.
Half circle cutouts, top & bottom will allow easy lift out of the rack.
Just pull a cutter out and use the existing hole.
Nice job! I like it!
Weekend Workshop is awesome. I haven't finished the course. But I have time right!
I would drill a half-circle finger hole in the top of the flat board to make it easier to pull out. Love how it turned out, especially how it is a drawer that acts as a mobile box.
9:00 you could use your CNC and engrave the numbers. As an alternative you could burn the numbers in the Wood.
Yeah, for those of us with a CNC but no ball point pens!
To keep the small ones from dropping, put a strap on the underside the proper length to allow the bit stick up to the level you desire.
Hay Steve I just purchased the drill set you received as a gift I had been looking to buy some and liked the hex shaft of yours.Turns out they are on sale so I saved a little money. Based on your unboxing video I expected them to be loose when I opened them to my surprise everyone was in it's slot non were rubbing each other maybe they had been through one of CAs many tremors.
One thing I did notice as I cleaned off the oil was they all had a burr on the cutting edge which would interfere with the drilling process. It didn't take long with a small file to remove the burr. thought you might want to examine yours befor you use them enjoy.
That said like your vids just not a cat person :-)
I just had an epiphany on your smallest row with the shanks larger than the head. Glue a 1x or a 2x underneath the holes to act as part of your support and drill them through (or to an appropriate depth) the size of the shank. The bits won't wobble, nor will they get hung up when removing them.
That turned out great, Steve!
I recently signed up for the weekend workshop! Loving it so far and really enjoying your content. Keep up the great work!!
I think graphite may not fade but it can rub off (that's where lacquer comes handy). Funny thing is those Frixion pens, during college a classmate of mine used it on a written report (engineering writing) and because it was left on a room with direct sunlight, during checking of my professor it's just a blank paper.
Now that's getting to be an Extra Fancy workshop
Fore the smallest set of sises: block of wood underneath and drill a hole all most all the way thru. Or the block of foam (like the one you use to cut down large plywood)
Hi there, I'm one of those who suggested that method you talk about at the beginning of the video and, I must admit, I didn't think about that alignment problem you mention, my bad. But at the same time I'm listening to you mentioning it, I'm thinking that's not a problem at all, it has a simple fix. Well, it's not even a fix if you are not fixing anything but preventing something from happening, but still.
You just need a couple of bits, or three for some extra reassurement. You just pick three of those bits, just choose any three that create a triangle when placed in their respective positions, the bigger the triangle the better this works. So, you just glue the boards and put those bits in place right before clamping both boards. If the holes are made in the right locations, you are now sure both boards are perfectly aligned. Moreover, you might had both boards misaligned in the beginning and now you would have replicated the exact same misalignenmet, therefore every bit would fit and you would just need to sand, trim or whatever the edges of the boards so they are flush.
Once that I've written this, I'll keep watching the video.
Fun to watch.
When you remove the drawer to take it to your work area beware that you do not leave the 1/4" bit behind. Love your videos.
@10:23 In other words: "I love it when a plan comes together." (Cue the A-Team music.)
To get rid of the wiggle of the smaller bits, you could have attached a block below the first row with holes corresponding with the alignment, length, and width of the shanks :)
I know 3 years later but here a suggestion. Everything under 9/16 should be Brad Point bits. So from 1/2" to 1/16" eliminating the problem of the Forstner bit slipping through the hole. You will also get a cleaner finish with the Brad Point bits.
Steve, nicely done.
Can we see the antique dresser and the writing on the back? That sounds pretty awesome.
For the small bits add a ply strip across the bottom drill holes in it to keep them in line and lifted up.
It is so satisfying when things just fit so nicely. Greetings from a self-lockdown Mexican!
I think you should add a little handle thingy on the top of the board, like with those wooden crates so it's easier to lift out of the drawer if needed.
That's a great idea.
if you glue the block to the drawer then if you want to take the forstner bit holder out and use it as a drawer again you will have a random block in the drawer. I would have glued it to the organiser so when removed you have a drawer back nice and clean.
Came out great! I did something similar with my drill bits.
By the way i really like that you keep using sunlight to make your videos.
Perfect!
Foam: order a couple pounds Sees candy for wife. In summer they ship the chocs in foam lined boxes. Nice foam! Candy good too.
Plus some Omaha steaks for yourself. Same deal!
Pencils were a huge upgrade over pens back in the day. The graphite from pencils never fades. Plus it’s smug resistant immediately after application. This was one of the small things that helped napoleon in battle so much. His scouts and spys used pencils so they could fold up their reports and move immediately. Where his opponents had to wait for their ink to dry first or risk smudging the whole report.
might try glueing on a bored out block beneath the smaller bits to hold them.
Concerning the use if foam in the bottom of the box, what about getting a can of spray insulation foam and spraying it in a bag like some shippers do so that the packing conforms to the contents? Perhaps put the bag in the box and spray the foam inside then close the lid so that it confirms to the contours. After it sets, just run the drill bit through the holes for the shanks.
Just my two cents worth.
Hello Steve, Great videos ... very educational !! .. I have a comment about how to organize the place. I myself have replaced all wooden drawers with transparent IKEA boxes. It's not that artisanal ... I know. But I can now see exactly what is where ... and especially what is in the drawer without having to open them all first. I put a sticker on it (also easier with plastic) and seal it with packing tape ... But not so much fun to make ;-) ... thanks for all your videos ... greetings from the Netherlands, Roger
Good job, You bit!
I'm so glad I came across your video's :) It would be nice sometime to see some of your wife's work too.
Hi Steve, been enjoying your videos for awhile now, thanks and keep on vlogging!!!
Anyway, you may need to put another way to hold the last oddly shaped shank bit, else when you lift the whole thing, i.e. lift off the drawers, the last odd-shaped bit will fall off. Unless the plan is for you to carry the whole drawer... Stay safe!!!
Good job.
That is very cool. 🌈✌️
It's like my chemistry teacher always said. "Diamonds aren't forever, but graphite is."
This turned out great Steve!
Micron archival ink pens (art supply stores) offer pigments that are waterproof and fade proof and come in a variety of fine lines.
May I suggest drilling half-round finger holes on each end of the main board? This would provide access to the underside, when (not if, because you will) need access? I know you will have to be careful to keep the bits from falling out, so that is a concern. But the finger holes will make it easier to pull that board up.
I like this project!
For the smaller bits can't you attach a block under neath and drill the shank hole just deep enough so they all match at the same hight. Also that would solve the problem of loose fitting bits.
Another method of labelling, and the one that I use is a wood burner/soldering iron. Anything that I make and give to someone get my initials and the date burned into it in a discrete location.
Really like how this project turned out. Feel like I’m going to build something similar.
Really nice project. Things you could use in place of foam are felt, flannel, or cut a styrofoam meat/produce tray or just cardboard. Do you ever add dates and maker labels to your projects? When you mentioned the antique piece I thought about that. Someone in the future might appreciate it. Thanks for all you do.
you can resolve that odd ones problem by setting the supports under the holed board at a slope coming down a bit for the shorter bits
Can we see the antique chest of drawers?? Pleeeaaaase?
My thought, too!