When dismantling, take pictures on your phone of the parts as they come off, then you'll have a complete record of how it all goes back together. Take pictures of positions, bolt layouts, wiring arrangements, everything. It doesn't matter if you take hundreds, you'll be glad of them when you go back to a job months after starting it and you need to remember where everything went.
My No1 tip.... Patience! Allow the job to take the time it needs. Don't cut corners or "force" a job to try to save time. Patience always yields the best results
I worked in a manufacturing plant for 40 years and I never, ever saw a short cut around safety end well. I've seen people lose limbs, eyesight and lives by being impatient. A fraction of a second can change a life and everyone related to that life. You don't only injure yourself when you get hurt. Friends and relatives are always impacted.
things i live by, like dont say when done with a job that it`s "well enough" .. because soon that "well enough" will be the standard .. and the new "well enough" will be even lower .. and that`s how hacks are born .. so do it right or dont do it, but leave it to someone who knows how to do it right .. makes sense ? :) not sure i explained it well enough
Absolutely. I'm a bugger for not leaving enough time for paint to dry.. Number of times I couldn't wait to see how me freshly painted tank looked on the bike to find after that i have left thumbprints permanently in the surface. Once, i was holding my tank so delicately to avoid said problem; i dropped the ******** thing. Patience!
I'm a lift engineer, and an old time fitter gave me the best piece of advice about protecting your hands "Never put your fingers where you wouldn't put your c**k" I've still got all my fingers
I heard that advice more than 20 years ago and live by that rule even today. This has also been passed down to my Son. You can't do much without your fingers and thumbs.
Well done as always Delboy! My number one is: Stop and think every so often. “Really...stop, have a good look at what you are doing and think about your next move and what tools, materials or equipment you will need to accomplish it.”
Never weld or grind towards the end of the day. You wont be there when that glowing ember from the sparks ignites and burns your garage/workshop down. Regards Paul Fowell.
Hey Paul, now that is a brand new on me, glaringly obvious at the same time, and one I would never have thought of, bloody brilliant mate, I love the You Tube family.
They have to allow up to 1 hour of firewatch after the welders/grinders have stopped at work. So as not to burn down the power station. Luckily I'm pre occupied with my scaffold not going up in flames if it's too near a boiler or 1inch steam pipe (the type that brands you through your fireproof overalls if you so much as look at it !)👍🏻☮❤
Start every job with a mug of tea. That's the time I use to evaluate a job and think through how I'm going to approach the task. It prevents rushing in and doing things in the wrong order or stripping apart things that don't need to be, and limits the chance of making silly mistakes.
I've gotten into the habit of spinning a nut, bolt, or screw backwards until i hear and feel the threads click before doing it up, it only takes a second and avoids a little cross threading heartache.
Del, Thank you very much for the shout out and link tied to this video. I sat back and watched it and thought, finally, a safety video born of real world experience. Hopefully, between the two of us we can save a few fingers and eyes. As for #1 on your list, I have to agree with the common sense comment, but also add, " if it scares you, don't do it, and don't be too proud to ask for help or guidance when that time comes. I really appreciate your support Del. Thanks again and ride safe.
Thank you Joe, I'm honoured indeed to have your support and approval, I am just a monkey in a garage in awe of your professional standards, and I learn from you in every video. When I bought my hobby lathe, I have to admit to having a healthy fear of it and it really hasn't gone away, but I presume a healthy fear of such a machine is a good thing... the first time I wound a cross slide in for a parting off cut, I realised that in some operations you need to just pick yer balls up and dive in... and there's no soft option! Even my meager amateur use of my machine has given me an enormous respect for professional machinists. Thank you again for your support, I continue to watch all of your content and am loving the cannon build!
" if it scares you, don't do it," In some cases that's a good thought. I'm a retired machinist. I built the house I live in. Including the plumbing and electrical. Most things I know how to do I learned by just doing them. And doing them till I got it right. I would guess it you really think about it. You learned a lot of what you know just by doing it. And maybe scared isn't the right word. But I'll bet many of those new things you tried made you wonder if you really should. But you did anyway... That way of learning is not for everyone. And those who should not own tools know who they are...
My tip for me, is to take breaks when working on a project. I seem to do better after taking a coffee or water break, I think about what I am working on, and often come back with a fresher perspective on how to better complete a project with a new idea or 2.
Lifting a Triumph Bonniville onto it's centre stand can be difficult (especially if you are 70+). Buy a rear set of foot pegs (got mine from TEC for £30 including postage) Remove the top bolt for the rear nearside suspension arm and screw in the foot rest it's M8 thread same as the bolt. Use this as the lifting handle and fold it away when the bike is on the centre stand. Another tip get a bit of wood the width of the rear tyre about 1/2 inch thick and about 15 inches long enough to rest the rear wheel on. Roll or ride the bike onto the plank, set the side stand, get off and push down with your foot onto the centre stand and using the foot rest handle the bike should roll onto the centre strand easily.
Great Tip Brian, I can set my Pan 13 onto its centre stand wearing my moccasins using that same method and a piece of 3/4" (18mm) rubber - it helps if you put and chamfered edge (angle) on both ends too so its not a 90deg hit.
My #1 tip is; keep a clear head in the shop. If you realize you are starting to get frustrated or rushing a job, stop. Take a break, read the manual, start again after a break. Thank you for all of the good videos. I’ve learned quite a bit from you and Ari on The Shop Manual.
Thanks for sharing your tip and I couldn't agree more Anthony... patience and a calm approach is absolutely critical for safe working in the garage... most, or nearly all, accidents happen when we are in a rush, in a temper or under pressure... wise words well said mate.
First a utility tip, when adjusting your chain, before you tighten the rear axel, take a rag and put on chain and then spin wheel so that the bunched-up rag is captured between sprocket and chain. This tightens chain and pulls wheel fwd, keeping it from creeping out as you tighten rear axel nut. And a safety tip, do not run the bike in gear and clean the chain with a rag and your hands. Yes people do this. Please don't.
Done the in gear trick, dont recommend, luckily only cost me a thumbnails broken thumb and a month off work (first time too fml) bit of elbo grease never hurt anyone xD
There was an NSFW thread on an R1 forum around 2009 where a fella got his hand drawn through the sprocket while holding the rag on a chain, bike in gear. Lost the ends of 3 fingers, and somehow managed to take photos moments after the incident. Grisly. Supposedly this happens all the time. SMH
When removing cover panel with many bolts, could be different lengths, use piece of cardboard with holes layed out like the panel. That way bolts go back where they were removed.
Foam board or Styrofoam works better, less time to place them in a spot, also drawing outline of the part like a child will also help as things don't always stay in the direction you would like
I always start with a clean area. Layout all the spares that I need to do the job. Have a drawing or a job breakdown readily available in case you need it. If it is a job that I have never done I will always check several you tube videos by different people well in advance to get a decent knowledge of the job which I am about to do. Before I crack a single bolt I will always make sure that the tools needed are all in their right place in my work place as opposed to being in a scruffy pile in the corner of worse, loaned to somebody else. I tend to work alone so I always let somebody know what I will be doing. If my wife is out I put a notice on the inside glass of the front door saying that I am working in the garage, you just never know. Lastly, tidy up when you finish for the day then clean and restock all my tools and equipment. Follow these simple rules and when you find that you have fkd the job up you will have the great satisfaction that you successfully fkd it up royally all by yourself!
#1 Clean as you go, always in whatever you do. A clean, tidy work area is more efficient and is very satisfying. Keep up the great work Dell. Love the new workshop.
Keeping the cellphone within reach at all times is a great tip! I actually use mine very little but I always keep it handy when I'm alone on walks, doing yard work, working in the man cave, or whatever. Now that I'm in my senior years and my strength is dwindling, I realize that help is more important now than ever! I seem to always be under the car, the bike, the house, on a ladder, or somewhere unexpected. Gloves are more important to me now than ever since my skin is thinner. It bruises easily and it tears easily and I don't heal as quickly as I used to. It makes more sense to be pro-active than re-active. I would much rather wear gloves than bandages.
Thanks for that, Del. Great tips and lots of good sense. My top tip is to NEVER lock yourself alone in the workshop/garage/mancave when you're working. If you urgently need help you'll wish that you hadn't put barriers in their way! Cheers! 👍
Use the right tool for the job. It may take a little extra time to get the tool or cost you a few quid but it can save you personal injury. Also, don't buy the cheapest tool thinking it's saving you money. I had a friend many years ago put a broken spanner all the way through the palm of his hand. He bought a cheap set of spanners and it snapped as he was trying to undo a particularly stiff bolt. Luckily he had no permanent nerve damage but it could have been otherwise.
Excellent video, and love that you left #1 up to us... and on that note: My #1 top tip is to make sure your hairy dog isn't sat behind you when using a grinding wheel, only to realise that she is when you smell burning hair, and have to chase a fireball around your garage, and spend the rest of the day feeling guilty, and feeling sick with the smell of burnt dog for the next 3 days!... and yep, this is a voice of recent experience! haha!! (she was fine, by the way!).
haha gave me the laugh of the day mate, literally crying here, that's hilarious! And poor doggy, hope she was ok, you'll have to call her Singe for short?!! Thanks for the smiles mate, always good to hear from you, D&Px
Number 5,,,,,,, I 100% agree mate. I've been a Boilermaker for 37 years and I shutter every time I see this.Those 1 mm cutting blades that are around these days (their great) take NO prisoners !!!!!!
when dismantling anything, I keep a clip board and note step by step. I also label each connector, hose w a piece of tape and paper label. I put all bolts, nuts, hardware onto a piece of foam core board - laid out in a rough sketch of the area- w notes tied to my clipboard notes, step by step. This doesnt take long at all and is an AMAZING help for anything complex.
If you're taking things apart, especially small parts like switch gear, put a towel or piece of carpet under your work. That way if something like a ball bearing or spring drops to the ground, it's less likely to bounce and roll off into some remote part of your shop. Great videos Delboy. Always something useful. Thanks.
If you want or need to use heat to extract a bolt, but don't want to use a direct heat source (torch or heat gun etc) around sensitive items, near brake calipers, hoses etc, or painted areas, a couple of kettle fulls of boiling hot water, poured slowly can heat up the parts just lovely.
For number 6 (I think), if you are polishing in the lathe, especially a long piece, you may find it handy to clamp the emery in the tool holder (use a tool to space it in the holder and place a shim on top of the emery to avoid the clamping bolts splitting it and possibly tangling up), you can set the machine up for screw cutting with your desired pitch and let it go along evenly with your desired tension on the tool post (dont go mad, it isn't needed, let the emery do the work and not get too hot) to get a nice even finish, and keep worn pieces, if you are going for a high tolerance nominal size, you can use worn pieces to polish something into spec (the worn pieces will make it a bit easier as they will remove less material than a spanking new bit, and using coolant may help depending on application and help control the material deposition from clogging the emery) this is handy on older machines with worn beds that may not be able to hit these tolerances on such distances, or on machines that just aren't built to hit these tolerances... also, a lot easier on the arms lol... and clean your bed and chuck afterwards, the particulate matter will clog up anywhere it can get and shorten the life of your machine, the ways, the chuck, tool post, everything, if it can, it will... and then oil everything when finished... Avoid leaning over your bed for any reason while the chuck is rotating, take all draw strings out of your hoodies and jumpers, fleeces and joggers, do not wear any loose clothing either, anything of the sort will try and kill you before you know it, and that's a good way to think about it, do not wear gloves no matter how well they fit either, it can pick up and drag you in if you are too close... use barrier cream to protect your hands, glasses to protect your eyes, and ear plugs if you are turning something hardened if its screaching like a (insert favourite expletive)... Also lathe related, if you can make covers for your lead screw, do so, this can also grab clothing if too close, it also will keep the lead screw clean and improve its life and operation... You CAN get away with everything I've said, this is advice for a novice, but why try and get away with it? You want a turned part and a well maintained machine, not a hospital trip... and well made parts are cooler than scars from stupidity... Written on my phone, so dont judge my grammar 😂 use advice at your own digression, be safe and use your nut, that's what it's for... 🤙🏻
Brilliant vid. I've just found out i was using the file VERY wrong by filing back and forth lol At least i had the balls to admit this hehe, Great content !
I think the risk of damaging the file is way overstated. Old machine shops had a tool called a die filler that runs a file back and forth at speed. They had no provision for reducing pressure (unlike, say, a shaper that will lift the tool on the back stroke). Maybe it’s minutely better to lift, but I’m not going to stress about it.
Spot on Del thank you! My number 1 tip is to know when to fold your cards and call it a day. It’s so easy to press on and rush to get something done, perhaps it wasn’t going right or you spent ages trying to get the damn bolt undone, perhaps you need some additional tools or personnel...At best you may just end up with a rubbish job, at worse you could end up losing a finger or even an eye. That need to carry on is risky no matter what time of day. Therefore take a break come back to it, later when you are 100% and you’ll have better success. Cheers, Trev
One of my tips would be, If your doing a job and it's not going as planned and your getting frustrated with it. Walk away, have a cup of tea, go for a walk , take the rest of the day off. from experience I find if I get to frustrated I tend to then start cutting corners or even braking the thing so best to just take a break from it. Same goes for if you tired.
A year on after watching this,it popped up in my recommend list…probably because I was going to do something silly and hazardous and needed a reminder. Good info, even the second time around!
You shouldn't use a wet lubricant on locks. Not only do they thicken up over time causing the mechanism to gum up, but because they're wet they attract the dust/grit etc. in the air and clog the mechanism up again. A better option is a dry lubricant such as graphite powder.
Great for locks that don't get rained on every day and fill up with water, the expanding ice does more damage than a bit of grit, but indeed dry lube has many uses!
@@Moonfleet41 Delboy's Garage even in wet conditions wet lubricants are not advisable because of the aforementioned issues. Instead something like a PTFE spray is better. Easy to apply, dry lubricant so doesn't gather crud and repels water (to avoid any ice issues). I believe that wd-40 do a dry PTFE spray in the same range as the lithium grease you use.
Great vid as always. But never use any sticky oil or grease in a lock cylinder and certainly not chain oil or chain wax. You can use almost anything on all moving parts, but in the cylinder itself you should never use anything else than an oil made for that purpose or similar. Anything sticky will more or less glue dust etc in there and with time the lock will be useless.
Ok, "Issues with Dust", never had that i must say, and been protecting my bike locks this way for years mate..i find that plain oil gets washed out in no time with rain day after day.. and then the water content freezes solid over night, ...if it gets a little clogged you can blast them out with a little brake cleaner or plus gas, and then re-lube them..but allowing water to continually freeze inside a lock will certainly render it useless in the end, i guess we use what works for us aye. maybe you're locks don't live outdoors all year round in rain and sub zero temps?.. the Ice will do a lot more damage than a bit of dust.!
@@Moonfleet41 Delboy's Garage I'm partly servicing locks for a living and yes, lock cylinders clogging up due to dust, dirt and wrong lube is more common than people think. Yes, a blast of brake cleaner or just using pressurized air might get them working. If you're lucky. But it might get the dust and dirt stick even better, and depending on the type of lock you'll never be able to use it again. Lost count decades ago of all the locks I drilled to open (or cut). Each to their own I guess. But I would never use anything sticky in the cylinder. Yes, it might work. But use a high quality oil made for locks and maintain them regularly if you want be sure instead of relying on "might". That oil is made for a purpose, and it isn't because it tastes good 😉
@@Moonfleet41 And yes, I deal with all kind of locks in- and outdoors, in Sweden. Temperature can drop to -25 degrees where I live so the conditions can be pretty ruff some winters.
@@Stromma1100 What do you use to prevent water freezing in a lock Roger? Cos that's the major issue here and why I took the trouble to make it clear to dry them out thoroughly as often as you can, so as a lock specialist, what do you recommended to stop water getting in to the lock which then freezes?
@@Moonfleet41 The most common problem is neglected maintenance. Use a weather protection on it if possible, keep it as dry as possible, make sure all moving parts is lubed (lithium grease works pretty good for most locks) keep the lock cylinder clean and give it a dust with a good lock oil on a regular basis. WD-40 works if that's what you have, but a good lock oil is definitely a better choice. And if I have to clean a lock cylinder and if taking it apart isn't an option I soak it oil and use the key to remove as much as I can. Just put the key in and take it out, wipe it off and repeat until you get a much dirt you can out of it. Soak and it and put so the oil drains out and leave it for a while. So no magic tricks. Just regular maintenance with the right products. Good bike locks can be pretty expensive so why not have a good can of lock oil to make sure it keeps working? They're not that expensive.
They say you learn something new every day, well I just learned 10 something new today! I would say be careful working around a bike's battery with tools, I once melted, yes melted a 10 mm spanner when I was doing up the + nut on a sportster battery and got caught up on a worn battery 10 mm bolt and the frame with the spanner,it glowed red in a matter of seconds and welded itself to the battery! Always an interesting video on delboys garage !!
Hi Del. New fan or your channel here. Completely new to doing mechanics stuff myself (I'm 37) so have really learned a lot from your videos, so have to say thank you! My tip as a noob is research the job, do more research on the job and watch as many videos of the job as possible. I started off watching just one and then my bike was a slightly different model and things were a bit different and it caused me stress and fear. Yourself and Andymancam are wonderful at explain jobs. Once again, thanks brother!
@@Moonfleet41 can I ask you a quick question? I have put the front brake calipers back on my bike but when I did it I messed up and I have stripped the thread in the caliper. Can it be rebore or should I get a new/refurbed caliper? I'm gutted at such a stupid mistake. Would appreciate your advice
Hi mate, oh dear, am really sorry to hear that, and I feel for you buddy... but the good news is, it is repairable. Have a look online for a product called Wurth Time Sert... I made a review video of them, demonstrating how to install the insert and it will repair the thread good as new. It works better than a helicoil, because it's actually a metal tube that's thread don the outside and also threaded on the inside, you drill out the buggered thread with a specialised drill bit they supply, then you re-cut a new thread that's bigger and then you screw in the insert which seats all the way in with a flange around the top, and they give you a flange tool to cut the seat... it's all really easy to do, it's just the Wurth Thread Repair Kit is quite expensive, but when you're facing buying a new caliper, it's a trade off! And you get half a dozen inserts in the kit, so you can use it at least 6 times, and the actual inserts to buy are about a fiver each... but you must have the fitting tools, cos there's a special tool in there that expands the insert, so it locks in place... give it a look mate, it might be just the solution you need... and drop me a line if you have a problem... here's a our original video: ua-cam.com/video/zhZTmTW_Ofg/v-deo.html
Before I get flamed and people say that I am just sucking up. My top tip would be to look at UA-cam videos on the task at hand. That's how I became a subscriber in the first place to this wonderful channel! If memory serves, it was chain adjustment on my bandit, many many years ago.
Take your time to do it right. If you cant do it - it’s suck/your stuck don’t work stressed out - walk away and have a subconscious think. Cement powder it fantastic for cleaning up oil spills. Dell I thought you were going to say your number one is Ms Pitstop 🤣 Great vid as always. You are such a bloody good bloke for doing all this stuff - ut must take you a lot of time and effort and then you also field all the reply’s. Well done you. Thank you so very much. Safe rides 👍🤜
Once you’ve torqued you’re nuts, Mark them to let you know that they have been done. Useful in long term projects where you might tend to forget and question yourself...” did I torque that to spec”....I use a little dot of liquid paper on mine...paint pens work well as well.
Listen to this man! He will keep you safe and non-frustrated. The one about be careful where your grinding sparks are going made me cheer! I was a fabricator for some years and would see guys grinding away and the sparks going into shelves, lockers, equipment, into the welding machine itself thru vents, into other guys work area, into their own coffee cup! Use a little common sense!
Yes!! Use the guard on an angle grinder. Also Kevlar cut grade gloves come in handy. While working in a shipyard I was fabricating a set of light legs. While using the grinder with a guard (turned in the wrong direction) I ran a cutting disc into the knuckle of my thumb. Lesson learned
Great video Delboy, my #1 tip for grinding is to use a ski mask instead of glasses to keep sparks out of your eyes. I'd also suggest wearing a 3M mask or better along with goggles or a visor while grinding or welding or sandblasting to save your lungs for another day.
When working a job with tools and you get to the part where you won't be using the tool for a bit, put it where you found it. This way, when you need it later in the job, you don't have to move everything on your bench looking for it - it's back where it belongs. I do this, particularly with sockets - get done with it for a while, remove it from the ratchet and put it back on the socket rack. Sound like a lot of work and time spent, but I just think about all the time it would take me to find that 1/2" (or 12mm) socket that's under the shop rag that's under the wrench that's under .... which leads me to the next part ... Keep your bench organized, even (especially!) in the middle of a job. You'll recover the time spent every single time.
Love everything you do and think your channel is superb. One tip from me is - NEVER hit a screwdriver with a hammer - or use it as a drift or punch. I've seen you do this on many videos and it always makes me wince. Drifts and punches can be made from scrap or purchased cheaply - no excuses DelBoy :-)
Best advice I ever had off a mechanic mate, which has saved swearing and skinning of knuckles many times: always push on a spanner, socket wrench etc with the palm of an open hand (not grabbing tool in a closed fist) that way if the tool slips you painlessly fllat slap the side of your engine or whatever rather than punching it and cleaving a knuckle.
nice one del ! my no 1 is .... if in doubt ask some one as they say get it right no one remembers , get it wrong and no one forgets ! ive asked you questions and you gave me great advice ,and other peeps also replied saying they didn't realise either ! cheers mate !!!
You're welcome mate, that's what the biking community always was, and still should be, giving each other hand in a friendly, helpful way... have a great weekend!
I mostly work on stock bikes with a few mods. They are my bikes. Follow the book and use a torque wrench. The main reason I do my own work is so that I have confidence on my rides. If something doesn't feel right on a ride, I know that the front axle nut was torqued correctly. I know the pinch bolts were torqued correctly. I don't have to worry. I know because I followed the book and I used a torque wrench on every nut. Peace of mind.
GREAT VIDEO DEL. JUST LIKE TO ADD TO YOUR LIST WHILE USEING A GRINDER. REMOVE ANYTHING THAT IS FLAMMABLE. GREAT ADVISE BUT ALSO REMOVE ANY BATTERIES THAT MAY BE IN THE WORKSHOP AS A SPARK FROM A GRINDER WILL TURN IT INTO A VERY EXPLOSIVE BOMB. HAD A NASTY EXPERIENCE SOME YEARS AGO WERE 4PEOPLE HAD NASTY BURNS FRON THE ACID INSIDE THE BATTERY. TAKE CARE. AND RIDE SAFE. ADRIAN
Hi Adrian, great advice mate, and valuable to all of us, thanks for your contribution... another person said recently when grinding, stick plugs in to sockets on the wall, even if not using them, so it stops the hot sparks inadvertently getting sprayed in to the mains!!! Sharing this kind of info between us all is vital for our communal safety.
My biggest lesson, when the wife comes out to see if your done stop doing what you are doing. You married her because she kept your attention among others. Its was always when she was standing there talking that I dropped the nut or smashed my knuckles. lol Ride safe my friends.
Clean and Organize: Clean and tidy as you work, clean and organize tools at end of job/day. never leave shop in a shambles. So much can happen in a messy work area. Use a light, coil cords and hoses, sweep, and wipe up any spills. It's as much pride as safety. An odd side tip epoxy a magnet on the bottom of your dust bin. it will catch fasteners you may have lost, and if you use a plastic bag liner a 2nd magnet will keep it in place while you tip it, and for a few cents is a sacrificial if you are tossing it. You can even glue them to the dust pan. Cheers Del&Penny
Thanks Darren, Greta tips all of them.. specially like the magnets tip, ill be using that one for sure.. have a good week sir, and keep warm up there in the frozen North.. ..!
Cleanliness, cleanliness, cleanliness. Never leave rubbish or anything lying about, just and accident waiting to happen. And clean up any spills immediately
listen to the sound of your welder. The sound will tell you if your welder is adjusted right. Set the heat setting then adjust the wire speed until it is smooth. If it is pushing off and crackling it is too fast if it is just crackling it is too slow if it is smooth you are in the groove.
Re: risk assessment, I needed new coils on my 2007 Triumph T 100. I looked up the job in my manual and decided I would prefer the dealer to do it. Sometimes, the job is best left to the professional.
When storing different cleaning liquid or powders, never store liquid over powders, be aware of potential harmful interactions and keep those items in separate locations. Make sure lids are on tight and contain has no residues outer container. Try to find small corrosion resistant trays for corrosive containers. A can of acid, acetone, mineral spirits, fuel can sometime rust out leak out the bottom wonder across a shelf or table or floor into. For some products it maybe best to store in outside locked weatherproof storage bins. Never leave your fluid catching containers on the outside ground or driveways unattended with oil antifreeze etc. Animals, birds, or kids will come by and touch or lick the contents. Same goes for swimming pool chemicals. I had a neighbor with a pool chemicals tablet tub and diluting bucket that had rain get into it an he was finding dead animals and birds in his yard and neighbors yards. Lastly, read the full directions and warnings on labels. Some things will ruin paint jobs, chrome, or worse you skin eyes and lungs if not used without precautions. Make sure your breathers and gloves are the correct rating/materials for the items being used. I've seen thin gloves melt under a minute with some cleaners.
this happened to me this morning - a sanding disc shattered on me - it made a terrible noise and gave me a fright as I've never heard it before! pieces everywhere and I'm sure one would have lodged in my hand or face if I hadn't had the guard on!
Eye protection definitely for number one, however small or quick the job. My Dad, now 84, lost an eye cutting a chicken wire fence when he was in his 20s. He used to race bikes but had to stop due to not having depth of vision. He gave up riding all together as a result and has regretted it all his life. Protect your eyes guys.
I think the Hylomar trick is a good one Del you shared some time ago passed down to you by your grandfather I believe. Putting Hylomar on an engine cover for example sticking the gasket to that and using grease from the gasket face to the cleaned crankcase face so that whenever any future maintenance is called for you don't need to keep buying gaskets. Hylomar is also good on sump bolts because if any were any to enter the engine unlike silicone it doesn't harden and therefor cause any fatal engine oil starvation through an oilway being blocked etc!
Dish soap or air hose tip under handle bar grips to get them off and on. Watch your psi. Advanced Solutions...cool. I will check it out !! Great video as usual . I just bought a bench grinder and a vise ! No Grinding & welding near pressurized flammable canisters. Good point. Great tips here. Safety first !
Hi Del. Great tips. You are right about Joe Pie - top bloke, very knowledgeable and a brilliant teacher. On the angle grinder guard... My Dad was in the building trade. One day he was using a 9 inch grinder without a guard. The disk exploded and a piece of it found its way into his forearm, partially severing a tendon. As a result, he was in plaster for a good while, to prevent the tendon from snapping completely. You cannot overstate the potential dangers associated with angle grinders.
Blimey mate, a 9" grinder scares the sh1t out of me, I'm wary enough of my little half size one... sounds like your Dad had a lucky escape, grinders are as dangerous as firearms when handled incorrectly.
Tool Check. Know what tools you used and where they are at all times. When your job is done check the tool chest and all tools are back where they started. I'm ex air force mechanic and this was a must. Tools have a bad habit of ending up where they shouldn't if left unintentionally in the bike be it frame, forks, under a seat close to the battery and then vibrate free. Results range from "bugger me that was lucky" to "a very bad day for all". eg I left my 8mm ring spanner on my inside rear brake bleed nipple. Found it soon enough but had to replace bleed nipple with associated brake bleed . Tool Check!!
No. 1 - Be aware of what's going on around you and that works everywhere and for all situations! As regards the lock operation, any grease can get very claggy with dust and dirt in time to the point where the lock doesn't work. The alternative is graphite, which is dry and won't retain dirt or moisture. You can make your own graphite powder from some sandpaper and a pencil although a puffer unit with nozzle work well in getting the powder into the depths of the mechanism.
Excellent video, great tips and tricks and particularly the bits about safety! I've seen my fair share of garage accidents, had a few minor ones myself, thankfully I learned my lesson(s). One big one for me is eye protection, either when grinding, cutting or drilling, too many times I've nearly got stuck in the eye/face with flying debris, thankfully I was wearing my safety glasses or my face shield. You can probably image what event I learned from, right?!
Thanks buddy, another vote for eye protection easily becoming the No1 tip.. and ive been in the hospital having splinters dug out of my eye.. it's not a happy event.. !
Thank you for your videos question I have a 2005 Hayabusa from brake caliper did they change the flow of the brake fluid my caliper looks different in the book and videos can you help thank you
A tip I learned: "ABC" Always Be Cool. Meaning to keep calm, don't rush, don't get frustrated, be cool and collected. Del is a wonderful exemplar of that philosophy.
Good evening! Wooow that was a really valuable video! Okey, my tips for the day: 1. Have a clean workshop AND workbench! Cleanliness, makes dropping a bult, screw, nut easier to find. And motivates you to have a clean project. And most importantly, less things to stumble over, less tools to disappear in the mess and less stuff that can cause a fire. 2. Have the right tool, no matter, if its the cheapest shit. Using a adjustable wrench is a bad idea. A 1dollar combination wrench is not! DARE to buy the cheapest tools, so that you at least have some range of tools! That way you learn, that there is alot of tools out there and you save alot of time using the right one. 3. Mount a 15mm Plywood Sheet on you wall. Use nails, a hammer, and mount as much of your handtools to your wall. Its doesnt look super cool, like a real 1000$ workshop metal toolwall, meanwhile its SUPER practical. Searching for your tools, is BURNING up your intellectual, mental energy! That leads to frustration, tiredness, stress, and easily an accident. 4. Dare to watch, a simple UA-cam instructional video, for every electrical hand tool you have! You will learn so much about, using it the right way, and that will prevent accidents, injuries. Meanwhile on a happy note, it will save you time, because you will learn/see that the machine, can do so much more, than you knew 5minutes ago. Again, wow, learned so much from this video! Please produce more of them! Have a wonderful day! Cheers from Sweden =)
Superglue followed by sprinkle bicarb soda for instant repairs good on kids toys especially plastic can be layered to be like a glue weld - very strong , very quick and very cheap.
I'm a newbie at working on bikes, but have done a fair bit recently including replacing some fork seals thanks to one of your older videos. Something I worked out pretty fast was to clean up as I go along: don't leave things on the floor around the bike where you're gonna stand or slip or trip (in the case of cables) on the buggers.
Great video! I work on cars rather than bikes, but when I started, I always got knuckle rash because I would undo tight bolts by pushing the ratchet handle away from me. When the bolt gave, my knuckles would smash into the inner wing or a suspension component. So I learned the hard way to undo tight fastenings but pulling towards you into free space wherever possible.
True enough mate, but a little trick that works to save knuckles is if possible, push with an open hand... it's a lot easier to brace yourself with that open hand if it slips and works when you can't switch round and pull instead!
Mostly for new riders and I knowit' not shop related, but learn to use your front brakes correctly. More than 75% of your stopping power comes from the front. In a emergency stop your front brake will save your life. Just practice the process, try to use both front and rear as needed and mark your stopping distance and speed and see if you can improve your own technique.
Well dun del ,your videos have give me the confidence to do All my own maintenance on my bonneville t100 your old school, eazy to understand videos are excellent 👌 keep up the good work del boy ,
The biggest tip I have is always wear eye protection. I some cases wear two kinds. Also wear a cap when doing a lot of grinding. I have been grinding for long periods of time with goggles on and blew myself off with air before leaving for home te, shower and wash your hair and dry it but you had a small piece of metal in your eye and not know it until you go to sleep and end up in an emergency room in the middle of the night to get it taken out. Its no fun and can easily be avoided. Especially wear eye protection with wood cutting tools ........
I am an ex Printer and needed to apply some locktite to an adjuster (locknut)on a print press, unfortunately There was limited access, so I couldn’t get in to apply the locktite. What I did was to get a straw and suck some locktite halfway into the straw then blow it into the area I needed, job done!
@@Moonfleet41 Hi del, yes I couldn’t get in with a cotton bud, the actual part was fixed in position, so it’s not like I could take the nut off apply thread lock & put it back on. It was well recessed as well, so you couldn’t really get your hands in. The actual part was designed not to come loose, but it was faulty. Short of stripping the machine down and replacing the faulty part, the straw was the only solution I could come up with.
As a retired metal shaper I can tell you by first hand that the 4 inch grinder with a cut off disk on it that, the disks can explode and will so you speak the truth on the dangers of not having a guard on your grinders...... this means that you make sure to have one on your side head grinders too. It may look like its easier to move it out of the way or take it off just for one ting , that is when bad things happen. Thanks for the tips
Thanks Gary, really appreciate your feedback... glad to see you back, welcome aboard and yes, we've been busy moving forward and 'business as usual' as they say!
One thing to add to the guard on the grinder, ask anyone who''s shattered a disc what they make of it. If you break the disc up it saves chunks sticking in your face.
My personal #1 tip: If you are a hobbyist, always check out UA-cam vids regarding the job you are about to do and use common sense to evaluate what was presented. I rely heavily on what others have to say and Del is at the very top. If he says it, I heed it! Thanks for the tips and advice.
Put your Emery paper along the length of a file then slowly push forward on the workpiece no chance of it binding and you can control the pressure and keep it flat
Thank you mate, pride of place and treasured mementos, hope life is good, great to hear from you and thank you so much for still watching and having faith to support us, all the very best, D&Px
Always remember to do the basic safety checks on your bike before every ride, think back to element B on your C B T if you did one. Good video with useful tips by the way.
Didn't do a CBT myself.. it was black and white TV and three channels when i took my test... but pre-ride checks has always been a constant.. good call buddy.. Thanks for the input.
POWER (petrol, oil, water, electrics, rubber) Or FLOWER (fuel, lights, oil, water, electrics, rubber) Had those drummed in to me in the RAF. 30 years later I still do this every time I take the bike out of the shed.
mark those fixings with paint if you have a torque sequence or multiple parts to re torque . just in case you have to stop mid stream .👍🏻 paint pen marks can be easily removed with thinners or brake cleaner. I use 3 different colours for cylinder heads for example. A bit of a time consuming task painting each fastener with a dot and cleaning them all off after , if required , but can save a heep of hell particularly with single use stretch bolts 👍🏻☮❤
@@Moonfleet41 however!!!! if you are so tired that you fear making a mistake or injuring yourself. Take a break. Just watch Delboy's videos on how to complete the job if your afraid you have forgotten something.
When dismantling, take pictures on your phone of the parts as they come off, then you'll have a complete record of how it all goes back together. Take pictures of positions, bolt layouts, wiring arrangements, everything. It doesn't matter if you take hundreds, you'll be glad of them when you go back to a job months after starting it and you need to remember where everything went.
That's one I always use
Disassembly should always be well documented. reassembly depends on it.
Everyone knows this. Delboy says it in almost every vid.
My No1 tip.... Patience!
Allow the job to take the time it needs. Don't cut corners or "force" a job to try to save time. Patience always yields the best results
I totally agree Christopher, Patience prevents Patients..!
I worked in a manufacturing plant for 40 years and I never, ever saw a short cut around safety end well. I've seen people lose limbs, eyesight and lives by being impatient. A fraction of a second can change a life and everyone related to that life. You don't only injure yourself when you get hurt. Friends and relatives are always impacted.
things i live by, like dont say when done with a job that it`s "well enough" .. because soon that "well enough" will be the standard .. and the new "well enough" will be even lower .. and that`s how hacks are born .. so do it right or dont do it, but leave it to someone who knows how to do it right .. makes sense ? :) not sure i explained it well enough
Absolutely. I'm a bugger for not leaving enough time for paint to dry.. Number of times I couldn't wait to see how me freshly painted tank looked on the bike to find after that i have left thumbprints permanently in the surface. Once, i was holding my tank so delicately to avoid said problem; i dropped the ******** thing. Patience!
Or you could just buy a bolt the right length😊
I'm a lift engineer, and an old time fitter gave me the best piece of advice about protecting your hands
"Never put your fingers where you wouldn't put your c**k"
I've still got all my fingers
I heard that advice more than 20 years ago and live by that rule even today. This has also been passed down to my Son. You can't do much without your fingers and thumbs.
I like that! The cringe factor alone is enough to make you think twice.
The reverse should also be true but that's for a different topic.
...and still a virgin 😁
Uh ohhhh... I've screwed this pooch too many times to count... still have my fingers, but they probably have some incurable disease on them.
Well done as always Delboy!
My number one is: Stop and think every so often. “Really...stop, have a good look at what you are doing and think about your next move and what tools, materials or equipment you will need to accomplish it.”
Never weld or grind towards the end of the day. You wont be there when that glowing ember from the sparks ignites and burns your garage/workshop down. Regards Paul Fowell.
Hey Paul, now that is a brand new on me, glaringly obvious at the same time, and one I would never have thought of, bloody brilliant mate, I love the You Tube family.
They have to allow up to 1 hour of firewatch after the welders/grinders have stopped at work. So as not to burn down the power station. Luckily I'm pre occupied with my scaffold not going up in flames if it's too near a boiler or 1inch steam pipe (the type that brands you through your fireproof overalls if you so much as look at it !)👍🏻☮❤
So I should stay behind after work for an hour to fire watch? Or stop welding / working 1 hour before home time?
@@BIGdicSWINGING in our case It's the latter
"Fail to plan ,Plan to fail" is a piece of advice I was given as a young apprentice and it has stood me in good stead all my life .
Cheers mate .
Dont forget safety glasses when your useing a grinder
Good one.. Thanks mate.
There are no safety specs that can withstand the impact of a shattered disc. Best to use a full face visor
Also adjust the distance between the wheel and tool support to just abt a couple of mm. That way yr finger doesnt get swallowed if the tool got
@@oliver3902 Just realised why there's a grinding option on my auto darkening welding mask. Duh.
@@carljones8334 read the comment again I said don’t use safety specs. Only use a visor x
Start every job with a mug of tea. That's the time I use to evaluate a job and think through how I'm going to approach the task. It prevents rushing in and doing things in the wrong order or stripping apart things that don't need to be, and limits the chance of making silly mistakes.
I've gotten into the habit of spinning a nut, bolt, or screw backwards until i hear and feel the threads click before doing it up, it only takes a second and avoids a little cross threading heartache.
you HAVE to be 35+ :D .. like me .. cause thats old school and some of the best school haha
I 100% second this comment, totally agree, as simple as it is you still see so many people strip things🍻
Del, Thank you very much for the shout out and link tied to this video. I sat back and watched it and thought, finally, a safety video born of real world experience. Hopefully, between the two of us we can save a few fingers and eyes. As for #1 on your list, I have to agree with the common sense comment, but also add, " if it scares you, don't do it, and don't be too proud to ask for help or guidance when that time comes. I really appreciate your support Del. Thanks again and ride safe.
Thank you Joe, I'm honoured indeed to have your support and approval, I am just a monkey in a garage in awe of your professional standards, and I learn from you in every video.
When I bought my hobby lathe, I have to admit to having a healthy fear of it and it really hasn't gone away, but I presume a healthy fear of such a machine is a good thing... the first time I wound a cross slide in for a parting off cut, I realised that in some operations you need to just pick yer balls up and dive in... and there's no soft option! Even my meager amateur use of my machine has given me an enormous respect for professional machinists. Thank you again for your support, I continue to watch all of your content and am loving the cannon build!
New channel for me to check out!
" if it scares you, don't do it," In some cases that's a good thought. I'm a retired machinist. I built the house I live in. Including the plumbing and electrical. Most things I know how to do I learned by just doing them. And doing them till I got it right. I would guess it you really think about it. You learned a lot of what you know just by doing it. And maybe scared isn't the right word. But I'll bet many of those new things you tried made you wonder if you really should. But you did anyway...
That way of learning is not for everyone. And those who should not own tools know who they are...
No.1 is always try and keep wife happy first, or you wont have a shed / bike at all
My tip for me, is to take breaks when working on a project. I seem to do better after taking a coffee or water break, I think about what I am working on, and often come back with a fresher perspective on how to better complete a project with a new idea or 2.
No. 1 - simple. The thing that is 90% of ALL health and safety issues - COMMON SENSE !!!
Clickbait...
problem is with "COMMON SENSE " some people don't have any lol
@@DeafMaker they should re name it "rare sense " :-)
What if you don’t have any common sense 🤷🏼♂️😁
Lifting a Triumph Bonniville onto it's centre stand can be difficult (especially if you are 70+). Buy a rear set of foot pegs (got mine from TEC for £30 including postage) Remove the top bolt for the rear nearside suspension arm and screw in the foot rest it's M8 thread same as the bolt. Use this as the lifting handle and fold it away when the bike is on the centre stand. Another tip get a bit of wood the width of the rear tyre about 1/2 inch thick and about 15 inches long enough to rest the rear wheel on. Roll or ride the bike onto the plank, set the side stand, get off and push down with your foot onto the centre stand and using the foot rest handle the bike should roll onto the centre strand easily.
Great Tip Brian, I can set my Pan 13 onto its centre stand wearing my moccasins using that same method and a piece of 3/4" (18mm) rubber - it helps if you put and chamfered edge (angle) on both ends too so its not a 90deg hit.
My #1 tip is; keep a clear head in the shop. If you realize you are starting to get frustrated or rushing a job, stop. Take a break, read the manual, start again after a break. Thank you for all of the good videos. I’ve learned quite a bit from you and Ari on The Shop Manual.
Thanks for sharing your tip and I couldn't agree more Anthony... patience and a calm approach is absolutely critical for safe working in the garage... most, or nearly all, accidents happen when we are in a rush, in a temper or under pressure... wise words well said mate.
First a utility tip, when adjusting your chain, before you tighten the rear axel, take a rag and put on chain and then spin wheel so that the bunched-up rag is captured between sprocket and chain. This tightens chain and pulls wheel fwd, keeping it from creeping out as you tighten rear axel nut.
And a safety tip, do not run the bike in gear and clean the chain with a rag and your hands. Yes people do this. Please don't.
or that two piece screwdriver that's in most bike took kits.
I don't think Axel would be very happy when your tightening your rear axle!
Done the in gear trick, dont recommend, luckily only cost me a thumbnails broken thumb and a month off work (first time too fml) bit of elbo grease never hurt anyone xD
There was an NSFW thread on an R1 forum around 2009 where a fella got his hand drawn through the sprocket while holding the rag on a chain, bike in gear. Lost the ends of 3 fingers, and somehow managed to take photos moments after the incident. Grisly. Supposedly this happens all the time. SMH
My tip would be Never rush a job or let somebody rush you as that's the time things go wrong
My motto is "Hurry up and you will screw up".
When removing cover panel with many bolts, could be different lengths, use piece of cardboard with holes layed out like the panel. That way bolts go back where they were removed.
Haha..don't know why I never thought of this, great tip. I try lay them out in order of removal... but its not fool proof. well done
Foam board or Styrofoam works better, less time to place them in a spot, also drawing outline of the part like a child will also help as things don't always stay in the direction you would like
Delboy Your vids are brilliant. I’m watching them of an evening rather than the TV!! Which is actually where you should be.😁
My word, thank you most kindly sir, and welcome aboard. . Enjoy the videos. Del.
I always start with a clean area. Layout all the spares that I need to do the job. Have a drawing or a job breakdown readily available in case you need it. If it is a job that I have never done I will always check several you tube videos by different people well in advance to get a decent knowledge of the job which I am about to do. Before I crack a single bolt I will always make sure that the tools needed are all in their right place in my work place as opposed to being in a scruffy pile in the corner of worse, loaned to somebody else. I tend to work alone so I always let somebody know what I will be doing. If my wife is out I put a notice on the inside glass of the front door saying that I am working in the garage, you just never know. Lastly, tidy up when you finish for the day then clean and restock all my tools and equipment. Follow these simple rules and when you find that you have fkd the job up you will have the great satisfaction that you successfully fkd it up royally all by yourself!
#1 Clean as you go, always in whatever you do.
A clean, tidy work area is more efficient and is very satisfying.
Keep up the great work Dell.
Love the new workshop.
Thanks Ian, good to hear from youymate.
Keeping the cellphone within reach at all times is a great tip! I actually use mine very little but I always keep it handy when I'm alone on walks, doing yard work, working in the man cave, or whatever. Now that I'm in my senior years and my strength is dwindling, I realize that help is more important now than ever! I seem to always be under the car, the bike, the house, on a ladder, or somewhere unexpected.
Gloves are more important to me now than ever since my skin is thinner. It bruises easily and it tears easily and I don't heal as quickly as I used to. It makes more sense to be pro-active than re-active. I would much rather wear gloves than bandages.
Thanks for that, Del. Great tips and lots of good sense. My top tip is to NEVER lock yourself alone in the workshop/garage/mancave when you're working. If you urgently need help you'll wish that you hadn't put barriers in their way!
Cheers! 👍
Use the right tool for the job. It may take a little extra time to get the tool or cost you a few quid but it can save you personal injury. Also, don't buy the cheapest tool thinking it's saving you money. I had a friend many years ago put a broken spanner all the way through the palm of his hand. He bought a cheap set of spanners and it snapped as he was trying to undo a particularly stiff bolt. Luckily he had no permanent nerve damage but it could have been otherwise.
Excellent video, and love that you left #1 up to us... and on that note: My #1 top tip is to make sure your hairy dog isn't sat behind you when using a grinding wheel, only to realise that she is when you smell burning hair, and have to chase a fireball around your garage, and spend the rest of the day feeling guilty, and feeling sick with the smell of burnt dog for the next 3 days!... and yep, this is a voice of recent experience! haha!!
(she was fine, by the way!).
haha gave me the laugh of the day mate, literally crying here, that's hilarious! And poor doggy, hope she was ok, you'll have to call her Singe for short?!! Thanks for the smiles mate, always good to hear from you, D&Px
Number 5,,,,,,, I 100% agree mate. I've been a Boilermaker for 37 years and I shutter every time I see this.Those 1 mm cutting blades that are around these days (their great) take NO prisoners !!!!!!
Don’t be too proud to ask for help... there are some good people out there that will gladly give us all a helping hand.
when dismantling anything, I keep a clip board and note step by step. I also label each connector, hose w a piece of tape and paper label. I put all bolts, nuts, hardware onto a piece of foam core board - laid out in a rough sketch of the area- w notes tied to my clipboard notes, step by step. This doesnt take long at all and is an AMAZING help for anything complex.
If you're taking things apart, especially small parts like switch gear, put a towel or piece of carpet under your work. That way if something like a ball bearing or spring drops to the ground, it's less likely to bounce and roll off into some remote part of your shop.
Great videos Delboy. Always something useful. Thanks.
Thank you for your input Hans, that is a great tip indeed!
If you want or need to use heat to extract a bolt, but don't want to use a direct heat source (torch or heat gun etc) around sensitive items, near brake calipers, hoses etc, or painted areas, a couple of kettle fulls of boiling hot water, poured slowly can heat up the parts just lovely.
For number 6 (I think), if you are polishing in the lathe, especially a long piece, you may find it handy to clamp the emery in the tool holder (use a tool to space it in the holder and place a shim on top of the emery to avoid the clamping bolts splitting it and possibly tangling up), you can set the machine up for screw cutting with your desired pitch and let it go along evenly with your desired tension on the tool post (dont go mad, it isn't needed, let the emery do the work and not get too hot) to get a nice even finish, and keep worn pieces, if you are going for a high tolerance nominal size, you can use worn pieces to polish something into spec (the worn pieces will make it a bit easier as they will remove less material than a spanking new bit, and using coolant may help depending on application and help control the material deposition from clogging the emery) this is handy on older machines with worn beds that may not be able to hit these tolerances on such distances, or on machines that just aren't built to hit these tolerances... also, a lot easier on the arms lol... and clean your bed and chuck afterwards, the particulate matter will clog up anywhere it can get and shorten the life of your machine, the ways, the chuck, tool post, everything, if it can, it will... and then oil everything when finished...
Avoid leaning over your bed for any reason while the chuck is rotating, take all draw strings out of your hoodies and jumpers, fleeces and joggers, do not wear any loose clothing either, anything of the sort will try and kill you before you know it, and that's a good way to think about it, do not wear gloves no matter how well they fit either, it can pick up and drag you in if you are too close... use barrier cream to protect your hands, glasses to protect your eyes, and ear plugs if you are turning something hardened if its screaching like a (insert favourite expletive)...
Also lathe related, if you can make covers for your lead screw, do so, this can also grab clothing if too close, it also will keep the lead screw clean and improve its life and operation...
You CAN get away with everything I've said, this is advice for a novice, but why try and get away with it? You want a turned part and a well maintained machine, not a hospital trip... and well made parts are cooler than scars from stupidity...
Written on my phone, so dont judge my grammar 😂 use advice at your own digression, be safe and use your nut, that's what it's for... 🤙🏻
Also remove all jewely - rings, bracelets, neck chains, etc
No.1 tip, watch Delboy and read the comments - priceless !
Brilliant vid.
I've just found out i was using the file VERY wrong by filing back and forth lol At least i had the balls to admit this hehe, Great content !
I think the risk of damaging the file is way overstated. Old machine shops had a tool called a die filler that runs a file back and forth at speed. They had no provision for reducing pressure (unlike, say, a shaper that will lift the tool on the back stroke). Maybe it’s minutely better to lift, but I’m not going to stress about it.
Spot on Del thank you! My number 1 tip is to know when to fold your cards and call it a day. It’s so easy to press on and rush to get something done, perhaps it wasn’t going right or you spent ages trying to get the damn bolt undone, perhaps you need some additional tools or personnel...At best you may just end up with a rubbish job, at worse you could end up losing a finger or even an eye. That need to carry on is risky no matter what time of day. Therefore take a break come back to it, later when you are 100% and you’ll have better success. Cheers, Trev
Wise words indeed Trev, fatigue and irritation can be pretty dangerous, know when to call it done aye. !
Fully unwind your extension lead every time you use it to allow the potential heat to escape.
One of my tips would be, If your doing a job and it's not going as planned and your getting frustrated with it. Walk away, have a cup of tea, go for a walk , take the rest of the day off. from experience I find if I get to frustrated I tend to then start cutting corners or even braking the thing so best to just take a break from it. Same goes for if you tired.
If working in the garage in colder months, keep warm, if yer warm you're more productive & make a better job in the end.
A year on after watching this,it popped up in my recommend list…probably because I was going to do something silly and hazardous and needed a reminder. Good info, even the second time around!
You shouldn't use a wet lubricant on locks. Not only do they thicken up over time causing the mechanism to gum up, but because they're wet they attract the dust/grit etc. in the air and clog the mechanism up again.
A better option is a dry lubricant such as graphite powder.
Great for locks that don't get rained on every day and fill up with water, the expanding ice does more damage than a bit of grit, but indeed dry lube has many uses!
@@Moonfleet41 Delboy's Garage even in wet conditions wet lubricants are not advisable because of the aforementioned issues. Instead something like a PTFE spray is better. Easy to apply, dry lubricant so doesn't gather crud and repels water (to avoid any ice issues). I believe that wd-40 do a dry PTFE spray in the same range as the lithium grease you use.
@@WhitneyStephenGater They do indeed, i have some, so will give it a try on one of the door locks.. they live in the rain 24/7.!
Great vid as always. But never use any sticky oil or grease in a lock cylinder and certainly not chain oil or chain wax. You can use almost anything on all moving parts, but in the cylinder itself you should never use anything else than an oil made for that purpose or similar. Anything sticky will more or less glue dust etc in there and with time the lock will be useless.
Ok, "Issues with Dust", never had that i must say, and been protecting my bike locks this way for years mate..i find that plain oil gets washed out in no time with rain day after day.. and then the water content freezes solid over night, ...if it gets a little clogged you can blast them out with a little brake cleaner or plus gas, and then re-lube them..but allowing water to continually freeze inside a lock will certainly render it useless in the end, i guess we use what works for us aye. maybe you're locks don't live outdoors all year round in rain and sub zero temps?.. the Ice will do a lot more damage than a bit of dust.!
@@Moonfleet41 Delboy's Garage I'm partly servicing locks for a living and yes, lock cylinders clogging up due to dust, dirt and wrong lube is more common than people think.
Yes, a blast of brake cleaner or just using pressurized air might get them working. If you're lucky. But it might get the dust and dirt stick even better, and depending on the type of lock you'll never be able to use it again. Lost count decades ago of all the locks I drilled to open (or cut).
Each to their own I guess. But I would never use anything sticky in the cylinder. Yes, it might work. But use a high quality oil made for locks and maintain them regularly if you want be sure instead of relying on "might". That oil is made for a purpose, and it isn't because it tastes good 😉
@@Moonfleet41 And yes, I deal with all kind of locks in- and outdoors, in Sweden. Temperature can drop to -25 degrees where I live so the conditions can be pretty ruff some winters.
@@Stromma1100 What do you use to prevent water freezing in a lock Roger? Cos that's the major issue here and why I took the trouble to make it clear to dry them out thoroughly as often as you can, so as a lock specialist, what do you recommended to stop water getting in to the lock which then freezes?
@@Moonfleet41 The most common problem is neglected maintenance. Use a weather protection on it if possible, keep it as dry as possible, make sure all moving parts is lubed (lithium grease works pretty good for most locks) keep the lock cylinder clean and give it a dust with a good lock oil on a regular basis. WD-40 works if that's what you have, but a good lock oil is definitely a better choice.
And if I have to clean a lock cylinder and if taking it apart isn't an option I soak it oil and use the key to remove as much as I can. Just put the key in and take it out, wipe it off and repeat until you get a much dirt you can out of it. Soak and it and put so the oil drains out and leave it for a while.
So no magic tricks. Just regular maintenance with the right products. Good bike locks can be pretty expensive so why not have a good can of lock oil to make sure it keeps working? They're not that expensive.
They say you learn something new every day, well I just learned 10 something new today!
I would say be careful working around a bike's battery with tools, I once melted, yes melted a 10 mm spanner when I was doing up the + nut on a sportster battery and got caught up on a worn battery 10 mm bolt and the frame with the spanner,it glowed red in a matter of seconds and welded itself to the battery!
Always an interesting video on delboys garage !!
Hi Del. New fan or your channel here. Completely new to doing mechanics stuff myself (I'm 37) so have really learned a lot from your videos, so have to say thank you!
My tip as a noob is research the job, do more research on the job and watch as many videos of the job as possible. I started off watching just one and then my bike was a slightly different model and things were a bit different and it caused me stress and fear. Yourself and Andymancam are wonderful at explain jobs.
Once again, thanks brother!
Most welcome mate, am glad the videos can help you, it's a pleasure to be able to help out! Ride safe mate, Del
@@Moonfleet41 can I ask you a quick question? I have put the front brake calipers back on my bike but when I did it I messed up and I have stripped the thread in the caliper. Can it be rebore or should I get a new/refurbed caliper? I'm gutted at such a stupid mistake. Would appreciate your advice
Hi mate, oh dear, am really sorry to hear that, and I feel for you buddy... but the good news is, it is repairable. Have a look online for a product called Wurth Time Sert... I made a review video of them, demonstrating how to install the insert and it will repair the thread good as new.
It works better than a helicoil, because it's actually a metal tube that's thread don the outside and also threaded on the inside, you drill out the buggered thread with a specialised drill bit they supply, then you re-cut a new thread that's bigger and then you screw in the insert which seats all the way in with a flange around the top, and they give you a flange tool to cut the seat... it's all really easy to do, it's just the Wurth Thread Repair Kit is quite expensive, but when you're facing buying a new caliper, it's a trade off! And you get half a dozen inserts in the kit, so you can use it at least 6 times, and the actual inserts to buy are about a fiver each... but you must have the fitting tools, cos there's a special tool in there that expands the insert, so it locks in place... give it a look mate, it might be just the solution you need... and drop me a line if you have a problem... here's a our original video: ua-cam.com/video/zhZTmTW_Ofg/v-deo.html
Before I get flamed and people say that I am just sucking up.
My top tip would be to look at UA-cam videos on the task at hand.
That's how I became a subscriber in the first place to this wonderful channel!
If memory serves, it was chain adjustment on my bandit, many many years ago.
Thank you so much for your wonderful support, You Tube is a fabulous resource for all of us and it's an honour to be able to contribute a little back.
Take your time to do it right. If you cant do it - it’s suck/your stuck don’t work stressed out - walk away and have a subconscious think.
Cement powder it fantastic for cleaning up oil spills.
Dell I thought you were going to say your number one is Ms Pitstop 🤣
Great vid as always. You are such a bloody good bloke for doing all this stuff - ut must take you a lot of time and effort and then you also field all the reply’s. Well done you. Thank you so very much.
Safe rides 👍🤜
Once you’ve torqued you’re nuts, Mark them to let you know that they have been done. Useful in long term projects where you might tend to forget and question yourself...” did I torque that to spec”....I use a little dot of liquid paper on mine...paint pens work well as well.
Me too mate, even a old pot of nail varnish in a cupboard and reach for it when you need it.
Listen to this man! He will keep you safe and non-frustrated. The one about be careful where your grinding sparks are going made me cheer! I was a fabricator for some years and would see guys grinding away and the sparks going into shelves, lockers, equipment, into the welding machine itself thru vents, into other guys work area, into their own coffee cup! Use a little common sense!
Great point Larry, I guess the guy with the coffee cup learnt all about that as soon as he took a sip ;-0
Yes!! Use the guard on an angle grinder. Also Kevlar cut grade gloves come in handy. While working in a shipyard I was fabricating a set of light legs. While using the grinder with a guard (turned in the wrong direction) I ran a cutting disc into the knuckle of my thumb. Lesson learned
Great video Delboy, my #1 tip for grinding is to use a ski mask instead of glasses to keep sparks out of your eyes.
I'd also suggest wearing a 3M mask or better along with goggles or a visor while grinding or welding or sandblasting to save your lungs for another day.
When working a job with tools and you get to the part where you won't be using the tool for a bit, put it where you found it. This way, when you need it later in the job, you don't have to move everything on your bench looking for it - it's back where it belongs. I do this, particularly with sockets - get done with it for a while, remove it from the ratchet and put it back on the socket rack.
Sound like a lot of work and time spent, but I just think about all the time it would take me to find that 1/2" (or 12mm) socket that's under the shop rag that's under the wrench that's under .... which leads me to the next part ...
Keep your bench organized, even (especially!) in the middle of a job. You'll recover the time spent every single time.
Love everything you do and think your channel is superb. One tip from me is - NEVER hit a screwdriver with a hammer - or use it as a drift or punch. I've seen you do this on many videos and it always makes me wince. Drifts and punches can be made from scrap or purchased cheaply - no excuses DelBoy :-)
Best advice I ever had off a mechanic mate, which has saved swearing and skinning of knuckles many times: always push on a spanner, socket wrench etc with the palm of an open hand (not grabbing tool in a closed fist) that way if the tool slips you painlessly fllat slap the side of your engine or whatever rather than punching it and cleaving a knuckle.
wise words well said mate!
Love the split bolt,normally I would just put another but on and lock the two together which is another option if you don’t want to cut the nut 😀
Super list, Del! My only add-on for me would be that I need to always be in “learn mode” when there are talented & experienced people around me.
🏍👍🏍
Good common sense advice, you could have told us this 20 years ago,about time. Love a lefty, cheers
nice one del ! my no 1 is .... if in doubt ask some one as they say get it right no one remembers , get it wrong and no one forgets ! ive asked you questions and you gave me great advice ,and other peeps also replied saying they didn't realise either ! cheers mate !!!
You're welcome mate, that's what the biking community always was, and still should be, giving each other hand in a friendly, helpful way... have a great weekend!
I mostly work on stock bikes with a few mods. They are my bikes. Follow the book and use a torque wrench. The main reason I do my own work is so that I have confidence on my rides. If something doesn't feel right on a ride, I know that the front axle nut was torqued correctly. I know the pinch bolts were torqued correctly. I don't have to worry. I know because I followed the book and I used a torque wrench on every nut. Peace of mind.
GREAT VIDEO DEL. JUST LIKE TO ADD TO YOUR LIST WHILE USEING A GRINDER. REMOVE ANYTHING THAT IS FLAMMABLE. GREAT ADVISE BUT ALSO REMOVE ANY BATTERIES THAT MAY BE IN THE WORKSHOP AS A SPARK FROM A GRINDER WILL TURN IT INTO A VERY EXPLOSIVE BOMB. HAD A NASTY EXPERIENCE SOME YEARS AGO WERE 4PEOPLE HAD NASTY BURNS FRON THE ACID INSIDE THE BATTERY. TAKE CARE. AND RIDE SAFE. ADRIAN
Hi Adrian, great advice mate, and valuable to all of us, thanks for your contribution... another person said recently when grinding, stick plugs in to sockets on the wall, even if not using them, so it stops the hot sparks inadvertently getting sprayed in to the mains!!! Sharing this kind of info between us all is vital for our communal safety.
My biggest lesson, when the wife comes out to see if your done stop doing what you are doing. You married her because she kept your attention among others. Its was always when she was standing there talking that I dropped the nut or smashed my knuckles. lol Ride safe my friends.
My number 1 is don't work dead tired. Once you've hit the wall it's time to put the tools down. Easy to make mistakes or get hurt.
Clean and Organize: Clean and tidy as you work, clean and organize tools at end of job/day. never leave shop in a shambles. So much can happen in a messy work area. Use a light, coil cords and hoses, sweep, and wipe up any spills. It's as much pride as safety. An odd side tip epoxy a magnet on the bottom of your dust bin. it will catch fasteners you may have lost, and if you use a plastic bag liner a 2nd magnet will keep it in place while you tip it, and for a few cents is a sacrificial if you are tossing it. You can even glue them to the dust pan. Cheers Del&Penny
Thanks Darren, Greta tips all of them.. specially like the magnets tip, ill be using that one for sure.. have a good week sir, and keep warm up there in the frozen North.. ..!
Cleanliness, cleanliness, cleanliness. Never leave rubbish or anything lying about, just and accident waiting to happen. And clean up any spills immediately
Wise words well said mate.
Fantastic tips, can't stop watching them, many thanks.
Thank you Ian.
Awesome tips
Here’s one for all
NEVER store flammables near your only exit 👍
Number 1 according to me : people like you to share motorcycle passion
listen to the sound of your welder. The sound will tell you if your welder is adjusted right. Set the heat setting then adjust the wire speed until it is smooth. If it is pushing off and crackling it is too fast if it is just crackling it is too slow if it is smooth you are in the groove.
Re: risk assessment, I needed new coils on my 2007 Triumph T 100. I looked up the job in my manual and decided I would prefer the dealer to do it. Sometimes, the job is best left to the professional.
When storing different cleaning liquid or powders, never store liquid over powders, be aware of potential harmful interactions and keep those items in separate locations. Make sure lids are on tight and contain has no residues outer container. Try to find small corrosion resistant trays for corrosive containers. A can of acid, acetone, mineral spirits, fuel can sometime rust out leak out the bottom wonder across a shelf or table or floor into. For some products it maybe best to store in outside locked weatherproof storage bins. Never leave your fluid catching containers on the outside ground or driveways unattended with oil antifreeze etc. Animals, birds, or kids will come by and touch or lick the contents. Same goes for swimming pool chemicals. I had a neighbor with a pool chemicals tablet tub and diluting bucket that had rain get into it an he was finding dead animals and birds in his yard and neighbors yards. Lastly, read the full directions and warnings on labels. Some things will ruin paint jobs, chrome, or worse you skin eyes and lungs if not used without precautions. Make sure your breathers and gloves are the correct rating/materials for the items being used. I've seen thin gloves melt under a minute with some cleaners.
The gard on a grinder also protects you in case the wheel shadders especially the 4 and a half inch angle grinders
this happened to me this morning - a sanding disc shattered on me - it made a terrible noise and gave me a fright as I've never heard it before! pieces everywhere and I'm sure one would have lodged in my hand or face if I hadn't had the guard on!
Eye protection definitely for number one, however small or quick the job. My Dad, now 84, lost an eye cutting a chicken wire fence when he was in his 20s. He used to race bikes but had to stop due to not having depth of vision. He gave up riding all together as a result and has regretted it all his life. Protect your eyes guys.
I think that Eye Protection is maybe going to be the most popular No1 choice Rob.. Good call mate.
I think the Hylomar trick is a good one Del you shared some time ago passed down to you by your grandfather I believe. Putting Hylomar on an engine cover for example sticking the gasket to that and using grease from the gasket face to the cleaned crankcase face so that whenever any future maintenance is called for you don't need to keep buying gaskets. Hylomar is also good on sump bolts because if any were any to enter the engine unlike silicone it doesn't harden and therefor cause any fatal engine oil starvation through an oilway being blocked etc!
Dish soap or air hose tip under handle bar grips to get them off and on. Watch your psi. Advanced Solutions...cool. I will check it out !! Great video as usual . I just bought a bench grinder and a vise ! No Grinding & welding near pressurized flammable canisters. Good point. Great tips here. Safety first !
Hi Del. Great tips.
You are right about Joe Pie - top bloke, very knowledgeable and a brilliant teacher.
On the angle grinder guard...
My Dad was in the building trade. One day he was using a 9 inch grinder without a guard. The disk exploded and a piece of it found its way into his forearm, partially severing a tendon.
As a result, he was in plaster for a good while, to prevent the tendon from snapping completely.
You cannot overstate the potential dangers associated with angle grinders.
Blimey mate, a 9" grinder scares the sh1t out of me, I'm wary enough of my little half size one... sounds like your Dad had a lucky escape, grinders are as dangerous as firearms when handled incorrectly.
Tool Check. Know what tools you used and where they are at all times. When your job is done check the tool chest and all tools are back where they started. I'm ex air force mechanic and this was a must. Tools have a bad habit of ending up where they shouldn't if left unintentionally in the bike be it frame, forks, under a seat close to the battery and then vibrate free. Results range from "bugger me that was lucky" to "a very bad day for all". eg I left my 8mm ring spanner on my inside rear brake bleed nipple. Found it soon enough but had to replace bleed nipple with associated brake bleed . Tool Check!!
No. 1 - Be aware of what's going on around you and that works everywhere and for all situations!
As regards the lock operation, any grease can get very claggy with dust and dirt in time to the point where the lock doesn't work. The alternative is graphite, which is dry and won't retain dirt or moisture. You can make your own graphite powder from some sandpaper and a pencil although a puffer unit with nozzle work well in getting the powder into the depths of the mechanism.
Excellent video, great tips and tricks and particularly the bits about safety! I've seen my fair share of garage accidents, had a few minor ones myself, thankfully I learned my lesson(s). One big one for me is eye protection, either when grinding, cutting or drilling, too many times I've nearly got stuck in the eye/face with flying debris, thankfully I was wearing my safety glasses or my face shield. You can probably image what event I learned from, right?!
Thanks buddy, another vote for eye protection easily becoming the No1 tip.. and ive been in the hospital having splinters dug out of my eye.. it's not a happy event.. !
Thank you for your videos question I have a 2005 Hayabusa from brake caliper did they change the flow of the brake fluid my caliper looks different in the book and videos can you help thank you
A tip I learned: "ABC" Always Be Cool. Meaning to keep calm, don't rush, don't get frustrated, be cool and collected. Del is a wonderful exemplar of that philosophy.
Good advice indeed Chris, i i heard that about working in a busy professional kitchen as well.. Patience is golden aye.!
Good evening! Wooow that was a really valuable video!
Okey, my tips for the day:
1. Have a clean workshop AND workbench! Cleanliness, makes dropping a bult, screw, nut easier to find. And motivates you to have a clean project.
And most importantly, less things to stumble over, less tools to disappear in the mess and less stuff that can cause a fire.
2. Have the right tool, no matter, if its the cheapest shit. Using a adjustable wrench is a bad idea. A 1dollar combination wrench is not!
DARE to buy the cheapest tools, so that you at least have some range of tools!
That way you learn, that there is alot of tools out there and you save alot of time using the right one.
3. Mount a 15mm Plywood Sheet on you wall. Use nails, a hammer, and mount as much of your handtools to your wall.
Its doesnt look super cool, like a real 1000$ workshop metal toolwall, meanwhile its SUPER practical.
Searching for your tools, is BURNING up your intellectual, mental energy! That leads to frustration, tiredness, stress, and easily an accident.
4. Dare to watch, a simple UA-cam instructional video, for every electrical hand tool you have!
You will learn so much about, using it the right way, and that will prevent accidents, injuries.
Meanwhile on a happy note, it will save you time, because you will learn/see that the machine, can do so much more, than you knew 5minutes ago.
Again, wow, learned so much from this video! Please produce more of them!
Have a wonderful day!
Cheers from Sweden =)
Superglue followed by sprinkle bicarb soda for instant repairs good on kids toys especially plastic can be layered to be like a glue weld - very strong , very quick and very cheap.
Thank Del!! My #1 tip is, use paper flat ring under angle grinder disc, then the disc will never jams.
I'm a newbie at working on bikes, but have done a fair bit recently including replacing some fork seals thanks to one of your older videos. Something I worked out pretty fast was to clean up as I go along: don't leave things on the floor around the bike where you're gonna stand or slip or trip (in the case of cables) on the buggers.
Great video! I work on cars rather than bikes, but when I started, I always got knuckle rash because I would undo tight bolts by pushing the ratchet handle away from me. When the bolt gave, my knuckles would smash into the inner wing or a suspension component. So I learned the hard way to undo tight fastenings but pulling towards you into free space wherever possible.
True enough mate, but a little trick that works to save knuckles is if possible, push with an open hand... it's a lot easier to brace yourself with that open hand if it slips and works when you can't switch round and pull instead!
Delboy's Garage Thanks mate, great tip and I really enjoy your videos! #workshopenvy
Mostly for new riders and I knowit' not shop related, but learn to use your front brakes correctly. More than 75% of your stopping power comes from the front. In a emergency stop your front brake will save your life. Just practice the process, try to use both front and rear as needed and mark your stopping distance and speed and see if you can improve your own technique.
Tips are the key of life. Thanks Del
Well dun del ,your videos have give me the confidence to do All my own maintenance on my bonneville t100 your old school, eazy to understand videos are excellent 👌 keep up the good work del boy ,
Thanks mate, glad to be of help!
The split nut idea is brilliant!!!
My no 1 would be to keep the work area clean
The biggest tip I have is always wear eye protection. I some cases wear two kinds. Also wear a cap when doing a lot of grinding. I have been grinding for long periods of time with goggles on and blew myself off with air before leaving for home te, shower and wash your hair and dry it but you had a small piece of metal in your eye and not know it until you go to sleep and end up in an emergency room in the middle of the night to get it taken out. Its no fun and can easily be avoided. Especially wear eye protection with wood cutting tools ........
My no1 is from personal experience 30 yrs ago on a lathe, Never wear loose clothing while operating any machinery.
I am an ex Printer and needed to apply some locktite to an adjuster (locknut)on a print press, unfortunately There was limited access, so I couldn’t get in to apply the locktite. What I did was to get a straw and suck some locktite halfway into the straw then blow it into the area I needed, job done!
Cool solution, whatever works aye?! I use a cotton bud for jobs like that!
@@Moonfleet41 Hi del, yes I couldn’t get in with a cotton bud, the actual part was fixed in position, so it’s not like I could take the nut off apply thread lock & put it back on. It was well recessed as well, so you couldn’t really get your hands in. The actual part was designed not to come loose, but it was faulty. Short of stripping the machine down and replacing the faulty part, the straw was the only solution I could come up with.
I love your videos, they are my calm time!. many thanks really brilliant
You're most welcome mate, im glad you enjoy the videos !
As a retired metal shaper I can tell you by first hand that the 4 inch grinder with a cut off disk on it that, the disks can explode and will so you speak the truth on the dangers of not having a guard on your grinders...... this means that you make sure to have one on your side head grinders too. It may look like its easier to move it out of the way or take it off just for one ting , that is when bad things happen. Thanks for the tips
Used to watch you all the time haven't seen you in a couple years your channel sure group congratulations my friend
Thanks Gary, really appreciate your feedback... glad to see you back, welcome aboard and yes, we've been busy moving forward and 'business as usual' as they say!
MECH 60 YRS THANK YOU IM GOING TO MAKE SURE I HAVE MY GRINDER GUARD IN PLACE THANK YOU SIR
One thing to add to the guard on the grinder, ask anyone who''s shattered a disc what they make of it. If you break the disc up it saves chunks sticking in your face.
My personal #1 tip: If you are a hobbyist, always check out UA-cam vids regarding the job you are about to do and use common sense to evaluate what was presented. I rely heavily on what others have to say and Del is at the very top. If he says it, I heed it! Thanks for the tips and advice.
Put your Emery paper along the length of a file then slowly push forward on the workpiece no chance of it binding and you can control the pressure and keep it flat
Nice to see SCRAM1 & THRUX1 rego plates still up on the wall...still got both bikes
Thank you mate, pride of place and treasured mementos, hope life is good, great to hear from you and thank you so much for still watching and having faith to support us, all the very best, D&Px
Always remember to do the basic safety checks on your bike before every ride, think back to element B on your C B T if you did one. Good video with useful tips by the way.
Didn't do a CBT myself.. it was black and white TV and three channels when i took my test... but pre-ride checks has always been a constant.. good call buddy.. Thanks for the input.
POWER (petrol, oil, water, electrics, rubber) Or FLOWER (fuel, lights, oil, water, electrics, rubber) Had those drummed in to me in the RAF. 30 years later I still do this every time I take the bike out of the shed.
mark those fixings with paint if you have a torque sequence or multiple parts to re torque . just in case you have to stop mid stream .👍🏻 paint pen marks can be easily removed with thinners or brake cleaner. I use 3 different colours for cylinder heads for example. A bit of a time consuming task painting each fastener with a dot and cleaning them all off after , if required , but can save a heep of hell particularly with single use stretch bolts 👍🏻☮❤
Wise words well said Brother Springy, and critical stuff indeed! Me, personally, I like to use Tippex and Mrs Delboy's nail varnish!
Tip #1
never leave a job halfway through and come back to it a few days later, as "YOU WILL" always miss something.
I have to agree with that whole heartedly, great advice indeed Richie.
@@Moonfleet41 however!!!! if you are so tired that you fear making a mistake or injuring yourself. Take a break. Just watch Delboy's videos on how to complete the job if your afraid you have forgotten something.
Take photos before you leave that helps you remember what you were doing
@@tubemeikel this is what I do :)
top tip indeed :)