Now that's what I was looking for. PPS is quite an expensive filament to get just for testing, so it's great you're doing it. I am mostly interested in: 1 - Annealing requirements. From what I researched PPS required annealing after printing. So what happens if not annealed and when annealed, what happens to the dimensions. 2 - The usual strength properties. Saw some videos that it even sounds like metal if you print thin wals you can play with your fingers 3 - Printabilty. From what I saw: - Heated chamber (though satstrd seeing brands tsht don't require that) - nozzle Temperature and bed temperature - bed print surface material Curious to see what you find out
Really nice test and review as always! I have a small suggestion for the result graphs: I think it would be nice to use a consistent graph color scheme throughout all the different tests and graphs, as much a possible. So basically pick one easily distinguishable color for the main product being reviewed (such as green or orange?), and use that same color in all graphs. And then other products that are being compared to would use some other colors (blue, gray... ?). That would make it easier and faster to quickly look through the different graphs, when you know which color you are interested in basically in all of them.
@MyTechFun Thank you! I'm mostly interested in the engineering grade filaments, and my experimenting is not very fast because I only can afford 1 or 2 different higher priced filaments at a time to test and compare. You do a phenominal job with your testing videos and it is EXTREMELY helpful to alot of us that are specifically focused on measurable results to fit specific engineering prints. I'm excited to see the PPS-CF and similar filaments!
Nice test as always. Impatient to see the PPS CF. I think you should not try on a x1c , my non CF Pps doesn't melt under 280 ° and the x1c has many step of his cleaning routine at 270°c. You need to create a special profile in orca slicer to modify it. For info, the PPS is incredible, the layer adhesion is impressive even at 300°
If fibers are added to a plastic they tend to absorb even more water. Hevort3d did a video where moisture was producing wobble-like rings because moist filament was sometimes expanding more.
Look into the "poor man's X1e" mod. You add a ~30 ohm resistor inline with the hot end thermistor. This will cause it to read the temperature as lower than it actually is. So it'll show 300⁰ but actually be around 345⁰.
Some PPS prints with lower temperatures but the poor mans x1e mod does work. I dedicated a nozzle assembly just for PPS and only ever print it while in attendance.
2 місяці тому
I am sitting in front of my screen cycling all those CF options for my X1C... I presume I'd just run my idea here. I am trying to print a spool to fit on my fly-fishing reel. So it needs to be very good to handle a wet environment and a bit of UV. The spool are usually getting most of their tensions in the center structure as the line will pile and constrict itself around the spool's drum core. Whenever fighting a fish the tension on the line will really increase the packing force and making it concentric towards the drum's structure. The outer walls are just there to retain the coils and providing a bit of structure. Sorry I am no scientist but my fly reel is quite expensive and a spare spool is just ridiculously high price. So I figured I might give it a try 3D printing and hoping to not having to go through 5 spool of CF to prototype before I find what could have been the best option for my use case. (Figured you'd be about the best guy I could possibly ask the question to)
I just tested the e3d obsidian nozzle at normal speed with standard settings for my filaments. Of course it started with stringing. Maybe that nozzle can help with the pps stuff.
Im not sure if you have already done a video about e.g. PETG Layer adhesion with different print speeds / "slow down if layer Print time is below " settings. As for my impression it really impact the stability of the part
Beware of the Qidi Plus 4 and the chamber heater. It's a fire hazard until you get replacement parts. The software update doesn't resolve issues, it's hardware problem.
I'm curious how different it was Bambu ASA vs Polymaker ASA. In my case the one from Polymaker had a very bad dimensional accuracy ... the shape of the printed cube sometimes was visible deformed. I'm glad that ASA CF has good dimensional accuracy. But there is a material that has good dimensional accuracy, is not blended and can deal with temperatures around 90-100 celsius?
Asa-cf is very moisture absorbant. It's far worse than regular Asa. Drying at proper temps for a long time is a must. It's an entirely different plastic when dry
Great job with showing the data. Looking forward to the PPS test.
You’re videos are absolutely amazing. Please keep it up
Your video format and your tests are amazing. Fix the horrible audio and you'll hit at least half a mil subs in no time, IMO. You do things very well.
Great video.
I love the surface finish of the ASA-CF.
Excellent analysis as usual.
Now that's what I was looking for. PPS is quite an expensive filament to get just for testing, so it's great you're doing it. I am mostly interested in:
1 - Annealing requirements. From what I researched PPS required annealing after printing. So what happens if not annealed and when annealed, what happens to the dimensions.
2 - The usual strength properties. Saw some videos that it even sounds like metal if you print thin wals you can play with your fingers
3 - Printabilty. From what I saw:
- Heated chamber (though satstrd seeing brands tsht don't require that)
- nozzle Temperature and bed temperature
- bed print surface material
Curious to see what you find out
Really nice test and review as always!
I have a small suggestion for the result graphs: I think it would be nice to use a consistent graph color scheme throughout all the different tests and graphs, as much a possible. So basically pick one easily distinguishable color for the main product being reviewed (such as green or orange?), and use that same color in all graphs. And then other products that are being compared to would use some other colors (blue, gray... ?). That would make it easier and faster to quickly look through the different graphs, when you know which color you are interested in basically in all of them.
I love printing in ASA CF it has such a nice finish.
I have to print some quite large parts with it soon and im sad about wasting so much money 😂
I can't wait to see how PPS-CF stands up to PET-CF and the different PA-CF!
Awesome stuff! You have PPS-CF from bambu. I wonder how PolyMakers Fiberion PPS-CF would compare to it. Would be cool to see that comparison
First there will be a separate video of each. And then in one video 3 or 4 PPS-CF comparison
@MyTechFun Thank you! I'm mostly interested in the engineering grade filaments, and my experimenting is not very fast because I only can afford 1 or 2 different higher priced filaments at a time to test and compare. You do a phenominal job with your testing videos and it is EXTREMELY helpful to alot of us that are specifically focused on measurable results to fit specific engineering prints. I'm excited to see the PPS-CF and similar filaments!
nice news @mytechfun. So much to test, so little time.
@@MyTechFun Even better! I look forward to it!
Nice test as always.
Impatient to see the PPS CF.
I think you should not try on a x1c , my non CF Pps doesn't melt under 280 ° and the x1c has many step of his cleaning routine at 270°c.
You need to create a special profile in orca slicer to modify it.
For info, the PPS is incredible, the layer adhesion is impressive even at 300°
Up bed to 110. Keep it warm for 20m and isolate printer from outer world. I put a blanket on
I haven't done any quantitative testing as you have but print my abs/asa at 80C chamber temp and layer adhesion is amazing.
If fibers are added to a plastic they tend to absorb even more water. Hevort3d did a video where moisture was producing wobble-like rings because moist filament was sometimes expanding more.
I just got my roll. This filament has a very strong smell to it. I use Polymaker Asa all the time and I don’t notice any smell.
Look into the "poor man's X1e" mod. You add a ~30 ohm resistor inline with the hot end thermistor. This will cause it to read the temperature as lower than it actually is. So it'll show 300⁰ but actually be around 345⁰.
Will this harm the printer? For hardened steel, it loses the hardened effect at high temps.
Will it suffer heat creep?
@@billytalentrocks345 We're still hundreds of degrees below annealing temperature. It's my understanding the X1E uses the same nozzle as the X1C.
Some PPS prints with lower temperatures but the poor mans x1e mod does work. I dedicated a nozzle assembly just for PPS and only ever print it while in attendance.
I am sitting in front of my screen cycling all those CF options for my X1C... I presume I'd just run my idea here.
I am trying to print a spool to fit on my fly-fishing reel. So it needs to be very good to handle a wet environment and a bit of UV. The spool are usually getting most of their tensions in the center structure as the line will pile and constrict itself around the spool's drum core. Whenever fighting a fish the tension on the line will really increase the packing force and making it concentric towards the drum's structure. The outer walls are just there to retain the coils and providing a bit of structure.
Sorry I am no scientist but my fly reel is quite expensive and a spare spool is just ridiculously high price. So I figured I might give it a try 3D printing and hoping to not having to go through 5 spool of CF to prototype before I find what could have been the best option for my use case. (Figured you'd be about the best guy I could possibly ask the question to)
HI, You don't show annealing the material post printing? ASA-CF should be annealed to optimise strength.
Why?
ASA is amorphous. Annealing shouldn’t be needed.
I just tested the e3d obsidian nozzle at normal speed with standard settings for my filaments. Of course it started with stringing. Maybe that nozzle can help with the pps stuff.
Im not sure if you have already done a video about e.g. PETG Layer adhesion with different print speeds / "slow down if layer Print time is below " settings.
As for my impression it really impact the stability of the part
I did with PLA. PETG, test in progress.. ua-cam.com/video/W3SCl302CP4/v-deo.htmlsi=-iC8uLXDyfxmIIxq
@MyTechFun looking forward for the video.
Beware of the Qidi Plus 4 and the chamber heater. It's a fire hazard until you get replacement parts. The software update doesn't resolve issues, it's hardware problem.
I live in EU (220V zone). That risk and replacement part affects the 110V zone (like USA)
@@MyTechFun Yes, forgot about that. It's just us in North America that can set things on fire. :) Like democracy.
overhang doesn't look very good which is a common issue with ASA. Have you tried printing without chamber fan on?
I'm curious how different it was Bambu ASA vs Polymaker ASA. In my case the one from Polymaker had a very bad dimensional accuracy ... the shape of the printed cube sometimes was visible deformed.
I'm glad that ASA CF has good dimensional accuracy. But there is a material that has good dimensional accuracy, is not blended and can deal with temperatures around 90-100 celsius?
Maybe this is the video for you: ua-cam.com/video/GfG65ypKTPE/v-deo.htmlsi=xrCZXvEd-4wmV8gb Not only Bambu and Polymaker
Just a note that UA-cam tends to suppress videos without the maximum amount of ads shown 😢
Asa-cf is very moisture absorbant. It's far worse than regular Asa. Drying at proper temps for a long time is a must. It's an entirely different plastic when dry
To be honest, i am quite disappointed with the SA CF performance, especially how brittle it is and how small the advantages over ASA are
Plesse use fiber filaments with common sense. This small fibres could be very harmfull.