$2 for 10 PCBs & 24 Hour Production: jlcpcb.com Just curious to see what's inside a mains-powered glue gun. Two main parts - a mechanical pusher and an electrical heater.
The initial negative resistance curve of the ceramic heater makes its self regulating, while also being quick to heat up initially. A very clever idea.
PTC heaters actually have a resistance decrease (negative temperature coefficient) before a temperature dependent increase ( positive temperature coefficient) until reaching a Curie Point where resistance increases rapidly.
5 років тому+24
It would be interesting to see if your "industrial" - Glue Gun is also this poorly isolated.
@@JulianIlett Exactly the same insulation, with the same kapton insulation as well. Incidentally it is not an oven, but a barrel, and the heater in the better units has 2 turns of polyamide as insulation, and a ground bond to the Zincalume alloy making up the barrel. The PTC element is metallised ( the grey area) to make good contact to the ceramic, and the whole unit has the edges ground off slightly ( the edge) to ensure there are no sharp edges, which are stress points which cause the unit to fail, as they shatter. As the ceramic is a blend of NTC and PTC material, the resistance curve is very non linear, but the resistance change near the transition point is so large that it will stabilise at around the same temperature irrespective of the supply voltage being 120 or 240V. To see the effects simply leave the PTC outside the barrel inside the insulation, and use instead some steel wire twisted around the barrel at each end to apply pressure. less loss in the hot air. If you have a spring of slightly smaller diameter it also works well to apply the pressure by winding around the insulation.
It's about time, Julian! ;-) That glue gun was more interesting than I thought it would be. How that one piece heater maintains its temperature really makes a simple and low cost "control loop." Thanks for show it.
I had one like that, it went bang. Took it apart to find a flake of solder had somehow lodged itself into the heating element wrap, I can only assume it came from my tool box so I keep the new gun in a plastic bag now.
Dear Julian, you have now disassembled this glue gun, On this way you come very close to a different kind of hobby! ever thought of going 3D printing? lately this is a very accessible hobby, and certainly for someone with your caliber knowledge! in addition, it is now VERY easy to build a 3D printer yourself! (at the same time make videos about this?) you have 3D KITs that are not expensive and work well. Maybe,......... think about it !? (believe me it's fun!) friendly greetings from The Netherlands! Rob.
Each layer of kapton film is considered a layer of insulation. It has a very high dielectric value, hence inky two thin layers are necessary to qualify for double insulation.
Hiyas. I think the spring goes around the pillar that the screw goes in to in order to secure the two clam shells together. Also, if you used a candle or a small torch, I bet you could get the temp up quickly and safely on the "oven". Great vid, as usual.
I tried the spring around the screw pillar - but that needed an extra quarter twist on the spring - and it kept falling off the trigger hook. Just didn't seem right.
Ah, ok. I saw that the spring looked like the ends of it were of different orientation and just figured that it was intentional. And thanks for the reply. Of all the comments I've made to youtubers over the years, you are the first to ever reply. I feel special now. I'm gonna go buy a bunch of lottery tickets! =p
Good to see our video on these devices. Quite simple. I "fixed" a cheapo glue gun some time ago by taking out the spring loaded ball (one way valve) since it was sticking. Was supposed to upload but never made the time. Maybe if I find the footage I will put it up.
I found out about this property of ceramic elements fairly recently too, during the rework of an old ceramic fan heater into a soft-start switch for my new circular saw. I was quite surprised when I first measured it, but as you have found once it gets to a certain temperature it becomes PTC. And in the end it was a very successful project.
Silicone is NOT a misnomer... If you had actually looked past the page for Silicone, you would have surely discovered that Siloxane is actually just the polymer of organoSilicon compounds of the Si-O-Si linkage... Then again, ANYBODY can misquote Wikipedia... Silicone is the name of a product... In fact, MOST products are not referred to by their chemical or laboratory name, they are typically rebranded as something easily said and marketable... By your reasoning, we should be calling TeFLON, PolyTetraFluoroEthylene... Or Syncolon or Fluon... lol Or that RADAR should be called RAdio Detection And Ranging, or RAdio Direction And Ranging...
wow, never thought about it before, but how the hell do these actually meet the "Double Isolated" standard, so that they can be run without the metal part being earthed?
muh1h1 the requirements are quite loose, simply having two layers of insulating material qualifies it as "double insulated" apparently. I guess that's why the Kapton is wrapped around twice 😮
All mechanisms are mechanical, Julian. I'm now thinking of taking my glue gun apart and adding an earth wire. I wonder if it can even be done, given that all the metal parts are massively hot.
I had a cheapie glue gun snap at the pivot point of the trigger, I ended up supergluing it back with a nail as a type of pin to reinforce it, been working fine ever since, not sure what I would do if the post where the spring goes snaps, probably not worth the time to fix or figure out.
That gives me some interesting ideas for alternative heating methods, such as using one of those hakko A1321 or knock off heating elements, probably not easy to get them to make good thermal contact unless you can find one with a hole small enough to sand down to size, but that would allow you to run it off batteries and if you want to overcomplicate things you could throw an arduino onto the mix add some extra functionality such as giving it higher voltage for heating when it's cold or make an auto feeder for it.
I wonder if the heating element has a thermoelectric effect confusing your meter, switch it to DC volts and see if anything is being generated when the element is warmed up.
I never saw the resistance go up significantly! It would be nice to know the accuracy of temperature. Interesting project for someone: Put a thermistor inside the gun and plot power against temperature.
Hello good evening and congratulations for the video ... I'm Italian and thanks to this video of yours, very detailed on hot guns (there are few on the net), I gladly follow you :) :) :) I wanted to ask you: where can I find and to buy the replacement of the silicone rubber? because mine broke ... thanks 1000 if you answer :) :) :)
Could probably install a cartridge heater in the glue gun along with a simple circuit to control it in order to get a battery operated glue gun that heats up very fast.
Ben heck has done a number of iterations of a "super glue gun" with auto-retract and better heat control. Surprised no chinese vendors have picked up on the idea yet.
Ben Heck did a project where he attempted to make a superior glue gun by borrowing the principle on how the 3D printer nozzle feed mechanism works. He wanted it to auto feed and also to retract a little when you a finished so that it didn't dribble. His design did work, but within a video or two he was back to using the normal one. lol
please help me, I bought a glue gun yesterday. this is the first glue gun for me. I have a problem. No glue comes out of the tip of the gun. I tried to blow air inside the metal chamber when it got cold but i found out that it is blocked. there is a metal yellow copper blocking the cone part where the glue supposes to come out. I could see it with light and a zoom camera. can you help me. i just want if the chamber should be blocked in case of temperature room and open when it is hot. would you please try to put a needle in the tip to your glue gun and see it the needle will go through easily or it is blocked as mine,
interesting experiment. Hot air guns blow a sleeve of cold air surrounding the central core of hot air iirc (haven't got one on me to check)... maybe that's why it was unexpectedly difficult to get the protruding PTC chamber up to temperature even though the glue was liquid? Implied resistance at 18W would be about 3.2k I think
yeah the kapton is rlly not sufficient.. had a older Glue gun blow up on me and leaving me in the dark as it tripped the breaker.. analysis showed it had shorted out.. i dont wanna know if there was already mains voltage on the tip
Is the oven tube on yours completely hollow or are there any cross pieces of metal. I just had my glue gun fail today by not letting me push the glue all the way through the oven (the tube part you called an oven). So since it was still getting hot I took everything apart then plugged it in and tilted the oven straight up and down. All the glue dripped out and I was able to look through the oven tube. 20 mm from the tip there is a piece of metal in the center that is stopping the flow. It looks like that was meant to cut the glue stick in half right befor the tip possibly helping get heat to the center of things. I had put two glue sticks through so fast just before this I put a lot of pressure on that piece of metal with the unmelted glue stick. If I can’t get it back in place I will just drill it out. The glue still melts completely and will drip out the tip from gravity I just can’t push a glue stick through anymore.
Shows how ambient temperature can have such an impact on performance of something that was designed to be encapsulated and running off mains. (Self sustaining). A delicate "Ballet", if you will. The heat gun cannot duplicate the temperature environment the dielectric was designed to be in. Too many variables. Room temperature to a glue gun element is like the Arctic environment to humans, and then some.
a Bostik TG4 is a very good glue gun , we used loads of them at a packaging firm i used to work for, only real problem was occasional eventual failure of the return spring..
I wonder if the block is an alloy like zamak (mazak in the UK, I think) and not just aluminum since aluminum doesn't retain heat very well. I'm intrigued by the heating element. The kapton film insulating the element doesn't seem to have any adhesive on it. Could be interesting to test the element removed from the block and wrapped in the kapton film with a thermocouple affixed with kapton tape to the side to see how warm it gets when not in the block. The block seems to press the pieces together rather firmly, though. The metal bits at the end of the leads seem to be mains + and - electrodes with the resistive material sandwiched between them. The resistive wafer looks to have a metallic band around it. What prevents a mains voltage short between the electrodes?
Is there a good "engineering kit" for about $50 to get into this stuff? By kit I mean something that comes with a few resistors, capacitors, wires and maybe a display or two. If you know any that (preferably) aren't Arduino could you make a review?
Is there wire or other type of material that can use it for hand heater with an up resistance when we reach 40 degree? To create safe and easy 5v hand heater. :p
I brought one from the Range store, I used it about a dozen times and then it exploded both my dogs went flying out the room and I was sat thinking WTF I've still got glue sticks left, when I performed the autopsy the mains cables inside the unit were freyed and burned, I can't believe I didn't get a top quality glue gun for £4 lol.
From yesterday morning's experience, there's bang voltage inside a glue gun, cos my little glue gun let out a big bang as I was gluing 18650s together, which scared the ever loving crap out of me!!! :S
If you use a couple of croc clips on the element, but insulate opposite jaws, you may find it easier to heat and get your measurements maybe with the plates too.
More of the Wiki bits please!! I knew that Kapton tape went above 350°c but I had no idea of the lower limit, 4° above absolute zero is just plain feckin stupid! I would love to know how it's exact resistance and mechanical durability at this temperature....or on the other hand, maybe I wouldn't, brrrrr! (Off to Wiki then! .....please support them with a small donation, £1 or $1 or €1 is fine, that's how they keep on doing their thing) The 4 linkage glue stick pusher-outer was interesting too, cheers!
@@JulianIlett I'm thinking this can't really be since i'm looking at my glue sticks (Stanley GS500) and it has a melting point of 210C/410F and my gun (on HIGH) is 200C/380F. Doubling the melt temperature curve will probably fry the glue. . Dummy me, the NPC part "executes" faster on 220V and the resistance simply increases far faster on the PTC side until it ends up at twice the resistance of 110V.
@@atubebuff Eventually gets to a steady state temperature where losses to ambient are roughly the same irrespective of voltage, just on 220V it will be 20C or so hotter, and will recover faster when you use the hot glue in the barrel.
I have had 8 or more glue guns all of them shit. No matter how much i have payed. They all just POP then smoke and take out the power to the house. Though i do use them like there is no tomorrow.
More likely the insulation was stripped too far back, and the wires eventually touched. the common failure is the PTC heater shatters, and then the 2 bars short together once enough of it falls out. does tend to fail safe, as the cable is so thin it acts as a fuse. Another common fault is the cable entry to the gun wears, and the cores either short to each other or break at the point it enters the gun.
@@JulianIlett Luckily I wasn't holding it at the time, it was just sat on my desk heating up. Made a proper bang when it went though! When I did open it and see what happened, I didn't much like the design either. I have another almost identical one that's survived so far...
That's funny your glue gun doesn't have a fuse what's funny is there are a bunch of people on UA-cam bad-mouthing Weller soldering irons because they didn't have a fuse one of them was Dave Jones was really upset because he plugged his 120 volt soldering station into 220v mains I just find it really funny that all these people think that they know better than the manufacturer.
No one expects a three euro glue gun to have a particularly robust design, whereas the wellers are just a wee bit more expensive, with correspondingly higher expectations. That said, these glue guns are even crappier than I had previously imagined :/
His glue gun doesn't have a fuse, your comment doesn't have punctuation, so there's always something missing. (Also, UK plugs do have fuses inside them, so there's that.)
Your Nanny State tells you that you have to do all this stuff and that you can't live your own life as an individual and as a human being your government tells you what you have to do instead of living your own life and doing what's right for you
This turned out to be a far more fascinating & informative video than it initially seemed! Thanks for taking the time to go through all that.
Thanks George :)
Same for me
The initial negative resistance curve of the ceramic heater makes its self regulating, while also being quick to heat up initially. A very clever idea.
PTC heaters actually have a resistance decrease (negative temperature coefficient) before a temperature dependent increase ( positive temperature coefficient) until reaching a Curie Point where resistance increases rapidly.
It would be interesting to see if your "industrial" - Glue Gun is also this poorly isolated.
Probably - the heating element has to be very close-coupled to the oven housing. I just bought myself an 18V glue gun - I feel safer now :)
@@JulianIlett Exactly the same insulation, with the same kapton insulation as well. Incidentally it is not an oven, but a barrel, and the heater in the better units has 2 turns of polyamide as insulation, and a ground bond to the Zincalume alloy making up the barrel.
The PTC element is metallised ( the grey area) to make good contact to the ceramic, and the whole unit has the edges ground off slightly ( the edge) to ensure there are no sharp edges, which are stress points which cause the unit to fail, as they shatter.
As the ceramic is a blend of NTC and PTC material, the resistance curve is very non linear, but the resistance change near the transition point is so large that it will stabilise at around the same temperature irrespective of the supply voltage being 120 or 240V.
To see the effects simply leave the PTC outside the barrel inside the insulation, and use instead some steel wire twisted around the barrel at each end to apply pressure. less loss in the hot air. If you have a spring of slightly smaller diameter it also works well to apply the pressure by winding around the insulation.
Julian Ilett the Ryobi ONE+ ? I'd love to see a review of it if you get a chance 👍
Robert Hunt AvE did a review of it, and he seemed to think it was at least decent.
Happy New year Julian. Thanks for putting in the effort to make these interesting videos.
It's about time, Julian! ;-)
That glue gun was more interesting than I thought it would be. How that one piece heater maintains its temperature really makes a simple and low cost "control loop." Thanks for show it.
Actually it is the positive temperature coefficient that makes it self regulating. Resistance increases when it gets hot, limiting the current.
I had one like that, it went bang. Took it apart to find a flake of solder had somehow lodged itself into the heating element wrap, I can only assume it came from my tool box so I keep the new gun in a plastic bag now.
Dear Julian, you have now disassembled this glue gun,
On this way you come very close to a different kind of hobby!
ever thought of going 3D printing?
lately this is a very accessible hobby, and certainly for someone with your caliber knowledge!
in addition, it is now VERY easy to build a 3D printer yourself!
(at the same time make videos about this?)
you have 3D KITs that are not expensive and work well.
Maybe,......... think about it !? (believe me it's fun!)
friendly greetings from The Netherlands!
Rob.
Can't believe that thing isn't earthed!
It is not earthed because it is double insulated.
Each layer of kapton film is considered a layer of insulation. It has a very high dielectric value, hence inky two thin layers are necessary to qualify for double insulation.
So thats what the use the quality street wrappers for!
They probably cook the toffee inside the Kapton wrapper ;)
Dual Purpose. In this day and age you have to cut down on waste... :P
if thats true, i didn't know quality street wrappers are kapton. Are they really kapton?
Hiyas. I think the spring goes around the pillar that the screw goes in to in order to secure the two clam shells together. Also, if you used a candle or a small torch, I bet you could get the temp up quickly and safely on the "oven". Great vid, as usual.
I tried the spring around the screw pillar - but that needed an extra quarter twist on the spring - and it kept falling off the trigger hook. Just didn't seem right.
Ah, ok. I saw that the spring looked like the ends of it were of different orientation and just figured that it was intentional. And thanks for the reply. Of all the comments I've made to youtubers over the years, you are the first to ever reply. I feel special now. I'm gonna go buy a bunch of lottery tickets! =p
It’s marked as double insulated. Doesn’t look like it to me! 😧
Aluminium is not the only metal that is not attracted to magnet. There are cheaper ones. Could be zink or other metal plated in zink
From the casting marks, it's probably a zinc alloy.
Yes, that is exactly the case. Two distinct layers of insulation.
Good to see our video on these devices. Quite simple.
I "fixed" a cheapo glue gun some time ago by taking out the spring loaded ball (one way valve) since it was sticking. Was supposed to upload but never made the time. Maybe if I find the footage I will put it up.
I found out about this property of ceramic elements fairly recently too, during the rework of an old ceramic fan heater into a soft-start switch for my new circular saw. I was quite surprised when I first measured it, but as you have found once it gets to a certain temperature it becomes PTC. And in the end it was a very successful project.
Nice "Inside a …" video, Cliv- oh, hi Julian!
My middle name is Clive. Actually it's John :)
Brilliant video as always Julian!
Hope you have a happy new year
Silicone is NOT a misnomer... If you had actually looked past the page for Silicone, you would have surely discovered that Siloxane is actually just the polymer of organoSilicon compounds of the Si-O-Si linkage... Then again, ANYBODY can misquote Wikipedia...
Silicone is the name of a product... In fact, MOST products are not referred to by their chemical or laboratory name, they are typically rebranded as something easily said and marketable...
By your reasoning, we should be calling TeFLON, PolyTetraFluoroEthylene... Or Syncolon or Fluon... lol
Or that RADAR should be called RAdio Detection And Ranging, or RAdio Direction And Ranging...
wow, never thought about it before, but how the hell do these actually meet the "Double Isolated" standard, so that they can be run without the metal part being earthed?
muh1h1 the requirements are quite loose, simply having two layers of insulating material qualifies it as "double insulated" apparently. I guess that's why the Kapton is wrapped around twice 😮
this is exactly right.
Thanks for this video! I’ve got a question; How do you make the heating chamber even hotter so that the tip can be even as hot as a tip of a solder
Actually there is something else inside the aluminium tube,, I discovered there is a ballpoint mechanism inside the nossle.
All mechanisms are mechanical, Julian.
I'm now thinking of taking my glue gun apart and adding an earth wire. I wonder if it can even be done, given that all the metal parts are massively hot.
I had a cheapie glue gun snap at the pivot point of the trigger, I ended up supergluing it back with a nail as a type of pin to reinforce it, been working fine ever since, not sure what I would do if the post where the spring goes snaps, probably not worth the time to fix or figure out.
That gives me some interesting ideas for alternative heating methods, such as using one of those hakko A1321 or knock off heating elements, probably not easy to get them to make good thermal contact unless you can find one with a hole small enough to sand down to size, but that would allow you to run it off batteries and if you want to overcomplicate things you could throw an arduino onto the mix add some extra functionality such as giving it higher voltage for heating when it's cold or make an auto feeder for it.
I wonder if the heating element has a thermoelectric effect confusing your meter, switch it to DC volts and see if anything is being generated when the element is warmed up.
@2m28s: Me screaming at UA-cam screen, "I SEE THE MISSING SPRING !!!!"
Gremlins. They’re inside everything.
The speedups were most welcome. I can think of other portions of your videos that I've watched that could have used some of this as well.
The alloy is a380 aluminum, not zinc.
I never saw the resistance go up significantly! It would be nice to know the accuracy of temperature.
Interesting project for someone: Put a thermistor inside the gun and plot power against temperature.
Hello good evening and congratulations for the video ... I'm Italian and thanks to this video of yours, very detailed on hot guns (there are few on the net), I gladly follow you :) :) :) I wanted to ask you: where can I find and to buy the replacement of the silicone rubber? because mine broke ... thanks 1000 if you answer :) :) :)
When you look at the hotend on a 3d printer, glue guns look so inefficient.
Could probably install a cartridge heater in the glue gun along with a simple circuit to control it in order to get a battery operated glue gun that heats up very fast.
Ben heck has done a number of iterations of a "super glue gun" with auto-retract and better heat control. Surprised no chinese vendors have picked up on the idea yet.
@@jaro6985 That's a "3D printing pen".
Ben Heck did a project where he attempted to make a superior glue gun by borrowing the principle on how the 3D printer nozzle feed mechanism works. He wanted it to auto feed and also to retract a little when you a finished so that it didn't dribble. His design did work, but within a video or two he was back to using the normal one. lol
Do you think British tech can come up with an even larger and more awkward mains plug?
They could, but Brits haven't exactly been known for innovations for decades, so "can't be bothered" will most likely be the response to that.
Always wondered how they worked. Happy New Year Julian.
do you know what kind of plastic is that black plastic? I really need to know.
please help me, I bought a glue gun yesterday. this is the first glue gun for me. I have a problem. No glue comes out of the tip of the gun. I tried to blow air inside the metal chamber when it got cold but i found out that it is blocked. there is a metal yellow copper blocking the cone part where the glue supposes to come out. I could see it with light and a zoom camera. can you help me. i just want if the chamber should be blocked in case of temperature room and open when it is hot. would you please try to put a needle in the tip to your glue gun and see it the needle will go through easily or it is blocked as mine,
interesting experiment. Hot air guns blow a sleeve of cold air surrounding the central core of hot air iirc (haven't got one on me to check)... maybe that's why it was unexpectedly difficult to get the protruding PTC chamber up to temperature even though the glue was liquid?
Implied resistance at 18W would be about 3.2k I think
More loss to ambient, there is a lot of cooler area there than the hot air can reach.
Happy New Year ! cool, interesting to see whats inside properly as mine disassembled its self preceded by a small explosion !
Why didn't you use the heat gun on the element with a spring keeping it together or something?
Thanks a lot
yeah the kapton is rlly not sufficient.. had a older Glue gun blow up on me and leaving me in the dark as it tripped the breaker.. analysis showed it had shorted out.. i dont wanna know if there was already mains voltage on the tip
Is the oven tube on yours completely hollow or are there any cross pieces of metal. I just had my glue gun fail today by not letting me push the glue all the way through the oven (the tube part you called an oven). So since it was still getting hot I took everything apart then plugged it in and tilted the oven straight up and down. All the glue dripped out and I was able to look through the oven tube. 20 mm from the tip there is a piece of metal in the center that is stopping the flow. It looks like that was meant to cut the glue stick in half right befor the tip possibly helping get heat to the center of things. I had put two glue sticks through so fast just before this I put a lot of pressure on that piece of metal with the unmelted glue stick. If I can’t get it back in place I will just drill it out.
The glue still melts completely and will drip out the tip from gravity I just can’t push a glue stick through anymore.
Why didn't you just plug it in and measure the current?
there are no hot glue guns of high quality, just high price lol
Does anyone know what that ceramic material is called?
Barium titanate
Shows how ambient temperature can have such an impact on performance of something that was designed to be encapsulated and running off mains. (Self sustaining). A delicate "Ballet", if you will. The heat gun cannot duplicate the temperature environment the dielectric was designed to be in. Too many variables. Room temperature to a glue gun element is like the Arctic environment to humans, and then some.
that heater block really should be earthed
The two squares symbol means double insulated. But its looks like only once. Maybe the better ground it.
a Bostik TG4 is a very good glue gun , we used loads of them at a packaging firm i used to work for, only real problem was occasional eventual failure of the return spring..
its glue pusher mechanism is all metal apart from the trigger, so much more robust than plastic ones..
I'm looking for an industrial/idiot proof one, so that's nice to know, cheers
I wonder if the block is an alloy like zamak (mazak in the UK, I think) and not just aluminum since aluminum doesn't retain heat very well. I'm intrigued by the heating element. The kapton film insulating the element doesn't seem to have any adhesive on it. Could be interesting to test the element removed from the block and wrapped in the kapton film with a thermocouple affixed with kapton tape to the side to see how warm it gets when not in the block. The block seems to press the pieces together rather firmly, though. The metal bits at the end of the leads seem to be mains + and - electrodes with the resistive material sandwiched between them. The resistive wafer looks to have a metallic band around it. What prevents a mains voltage short between the electrodes?
The PTC itself is a semiconductor. The two electrodes are not shorted, but well separated by the resistance of the PTC.
Is there a good "engineering kit" for about $50 to get into this stuff? By kit I mean something that comes with a few resistors, capacitors, wires and maybe a display or two. If you know any that (preferably) aren't Arduino could you make a review?
Is there wire or other type of material that can use it for hand heater with an up resistance when we reach 40 degree?
To create safe and easy 5v hand heater. :p
I brought one from the Range store, I used it about a dozen times and then it exploded both my dogs went flying out the room and I was sat thinking WTF I've still got glue sticks left, when I performed the autopsy the mains cables inside the unit were freyed and burned, I can't believe I didn't get a top quality glue gun for £4 lol.
My glue gun did not have the circular spring that hold a rubber guide. :-(
what is the middle thing made up of?
Those cheap ones are dangerous, I left mine connected for a few minutes and it not only melted the glue but it melted itself...
Which plastic use
From yesterday morning's experience, there's bang voltage inside a glue gun, cos my little glue gun let out a big bang as I was gluing 18650s together, which scared the ever loving crap out of me!!! :S
Hmm, and what the quantum teleportation has in common with those glue guns? A: China.
I want to knw wt tht thing between aluminium like like rock type mine one is broke
Sod the industrial type, Good reason to buy the Ryobi 18v cordless..lol
If you use a couple of croc clips on the element, but insulate opposite jaws, you may find it easier to heat and get your measurements
maybe with the plates too.
More of the Wiki bits please!!
I knew that Kapton tape went above 350°c but I had no idea of the lower limit, 4° above absolute zero is just plain feckin stupid!
I would love to know how it's exact resistance and mechanical durability at this temperature....or on the other hand, maybe I wouldn't, brrrrr! (Off to Wiki then! .....please support them with a small donation, £1 or $1 or €1 is fine, that's how they keep on doing their thing)
The 4 linkage glue stick pusher-outer was interesting too, cheers!
I do hope you gave Jimmy Wales his £2 when he asked for it?
man this guy can take a 7 minute video and turn it into a documentary.. It was interesting but way to much yabba yabba.. Thanks for the share though..
Very interesting
Very much the same way a 3D printer works.
brave to use the word GUN in a title :-D
Glue assault rifle.
@@heikovanderlaar3780 Hmmm...full auto glue gun. That should be a thing!
You could hot glue a new pillar on lol
Did I get that right Julian? :-) I'm guessing.
Thanks Julian.
I had always assumed that these had cut off temperature switches inside of them.
Obviously this way is easier ( read cheaper ).
If they use the same resistor for 110V & 220V then the latter heats up faster?
and to a higher temperature is my guess.
@@JulianIlett I'm thinking this can't really be since i'm looking at my glue sticks (Stanley GS500) and it has a melting point of 210C/410F and my gun (on HIGH) is 200C/380F. Doubling the melt temperature curve will probably fry the glue. . Dummy me, the NPC part "executes" faster on 220V and the resistance simply increases far faster on the PTC side until it ends up at twice the resistance of 110V.
@@atubebuff Eventually gets to a steady state temperature where losses to ambient are roughly the same irrespective of voltage, just on 220V it will be 20C or so hotter, and will recover faster when you use the hot glue in the barrel.
Yes, heats up faster and a bit hotter, but it is a temperature dependent resistance that causes it to level off.
Happy and Healthy New Year Julian !
First of 2019 :)
LOL yeah I noticed
Nice sir ji
Totally not simple to fix stupid piece of crap I don’t know how to fix it
I have had 8 or more glue guns all of them shit. No matter how much i have payed. They all just POP then smoke and take out the power to the house. Though i do use them like there is no tomorrow.
I had one of those go bang once! The insulation on the wires entering the heater melted and shorted out.
That's a worry - that insulation should also be a high temperature plastic :)
More likely the insulation was stripped too far back, and the wires eventually touched. the common failure is the PTC heater shatters, and then the 2 bars short together once enough of it falls out. does tend to fail safe, as the cable is so thin it acts as a fuse. Another common fault is the cable entry to the gun wears, and the cores either short to each other or break at the point it enters the gun.
@@JulianIlett Luckily I wasn't holding it at the time, it was just sat on my desk heating up. Made a proper bang when it went though!
When I did open it and see what happened, I didn't much like the design either. I have another almost identical one that's survived so far...
There have been a few incidences of glue guns being recalled for that reason.
You should checkout Sorin's vid's. Just use a hot air station ;) Actually works better!! Cool channel btw. Uk fan. Silicone rubber entry point lol.
That's funny your glue gun doesn't have a fuse what's funny is there are a bunch of people on UA-cam bad-mouthing Weller soldering irons because they didn't have a fuse one of them was Dave Jones was really upset because he plugged his 120 volt soldering station into 220v mains I just find it really funny that all these people think that they know better than the manufacturer.
No one expects a three euro glue gun to have a particularly robust design, whereas the wellers are just a wee bit more expensive, with correspondingly higher expectations. That said, these glue guns are even crappier than I had previously imagined :/
His glue gun doesn't have a fuse, your comment doesn't have punctuation, so there's always something missing. (Also, UK plugs do have fuses inside them, so there's that.)
@@Anvilshock yeah because your Nanny State tells you that you have to have a fuse on everything
Your Nanny State tells you that you have to do all this stuff and that you can't live your own life as an individual and as a human being your government tells you what you have to do instead of living your own life and doing what's right for you
@@Anvilshock you sound very upset and angry and you're very classy using profanity keep up the good work bud.
15:00 thought you liked warm also cause your nickname is Jules :)
Jules needs more Joules - my new catchphrase :)
right :)
More Joules for Jules! 😂 Love it!
Need a glue gun if you have a spare pkease
You could buy one cheaper than it would cost him to send one to you, sadly.
heat gun? wax candle! such waste... carbon crook!
Yawn