CJR ELECTRICAL Installing 18th edition compliant consumer unit.
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- Опубліковано 7 лип 2019
- Please don’t attempt to copy or recreate this video it’s for entertainment purposes only.
A day installing an spd consumer unit.
Few things found during the testing which show how crucial it is to test an installation correctly.
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I've been in the trade for 42 years and for the last 15 years in electrical compliance and Electrical Project Management. I'm also a full member of the IET. I think your knowledge and understanding of domestic work and the 18th edition is a credit to yourself and the tutors who have trained you. I also understand you're competing against people that will under cut you time after time. I wish you the very best of luck and I'm sure you'll do well. Great video.
Love hearing my fellow electricians who have just passed the 18th as they're suddenly "reborn" with all this knowledge they never knew before. :D
Very thorough indeed just like in all your previous videos. It’s good to know there are tradesmen like you out there. It’s just knowing which ones they are when we need one.
When you mentioned about the rn+r2 I smiled as I always make sure I prove the neural to be intact.
Great video Chris, love the way you do take your time to explain things. Keep them coming. 👍
A nice informative video Chris. Some top tips being given out on today’s video. Cheers 🍻
Enjoyed watching that mate. Good couple of points. Keep up the good work 👍
The hager mcb's have a little see through plastic window you can label each one looks nice and also wont fall off. Great video look forward to the next one!
Great video! I love the Hager boards, really good quality. Hager do have moulded grommets (shown on the leaflet I got in the last Hager I fitted). It’s nice that you get the grommet for the tails with it and at least they supply a bit of strip that’s way better than nothing. Great fault finding and testing demo, fair play
Take your point about the amount of labels on boards. I was almost finished upgrading a board high up in a hallway and the client noted how much nicer it looked than the old blue Wylex that was there before. 5 minutes later she walked past and now I've got all the labels and schedule stuck on and she was horrified that her nice simple white box now looked like it belonged in a skateboarders bedroom!
Thanks for answering our simple question following a couple of C2's on recent EICR. Our sparks gave us one price to continue with the existing plastic CU or and a higher one to install metal. Your video explained that very nicely. Thankyou, enjoyable, informative watching. You guys are artists.
I'm by no means an electrician, I'm in Canada, so we have 120v, I find what you do absolutely fascinating. It's neat to see how different your breaker boxes are (that's what we call em.. or I do anyway). Switches on plugs... a foreign concept to me!
I really do enjoy your videos. Reminds me of the work I did with cat 5 - the shit you saw. Incredible. As for your honesty, you can never be too honest mate. Ever. Keep up the hard work and the great vids!
I enjoy the vids, thanks for taking the time :)
I liked the reference to bigclive near the beginning. He must get some interesting packages in the post every week.
Nice one Chris. Keep em coming.
On the grommet strip - recently got a great tip from another spark I was working with. Take a bit of sheath you've stripped off a cable, split it down the edge, and use that.
I've been doing that for years.
Been using that like that for years
Looks rough as toast too
Super glue it on!! Plus always good to have it in your bag in case you break any of the customers household items. Shhh!!!
congratulations!! Great video Chris.
Good videos. Bring back memories of 14 yrs of self employment. I felt for you with that N-CPC issue. Been there (numerous times) when on the tools, even with my own fresh installation - because of long-standing defects in old appliances, particularly cooking appliances and lighting control eqpt. One customer had a nightmare of tripping after the power co upgraded (actually enabled) the main earthing. Tough to explain and tough to rip up kitchen floor and raggle nice walls to replace circuit segments!
Just a couple points that might make you think / bear in mind about an important distinction with responsibility / liability.
You gave a bit of advice to other sparks re if not fitting a SPD - in order to protect themself from a claim in the uncommon event of a surge severe enough to damage appliances - they ought to get a record of the customer saying that they understand what a SPD is for... and they choose not to have one fitted?
My understanding (though perhaps I'm interpreting regs incorrectly) is that from 2019 that would in fact do little to absolve the installer of liability - because although fitting of SPDs is advised, rather than mandated, _for compliance_ the installer would then have to produce a report justifying _in a technical sense_ why a SPD wasn't necessary, including a detailed assessment of various aspects of the incoming supply (characteristics, length, configuration in supply-side network etc), much of which would require formal queries to the power provider... and hence not fitting a SPD would not be a route that most sparks would want to go down now. - regardless of what the customer's written instructions were...
Then there's the temp fix thing. Been in that position as well - many times... and yes I may have done something like temporarily put a HR (not flame resistant) flex somewhat close to a possible source of flame.
Eventually though I became less pliable / far more cautious in offering 'easy' temp solutions ('temp' often ended up long term once the spark has gone) You see it doesn't matter that you advise someone to do or not to do something unusual just temporarily. In the final analysis if the safety of a piece of work hinges on (for instance) a customer not using a gas hob ring... and somehow ensuring that any/all other possible users know about and remember to comply with that; then technically, whether for 5 days, 5 months, or 5 hrs, it is not acceptably safe. And _legally_ you are not safe. All would change if things went pear shaped and lawyers or HSE or plod got involved - and what the customer said or understood or agreed with (even if you video'd their relieved agreement), would be secondary to the central issue of technical compliance, of which you are held to be the competent party - not the customer.
\_(シ)_/
Take care and keep up the vids.
the king is back
Great satisfaction from knowing how to and doing a good safe job.
IMO the trouble with SPDs right now is they could fail the very next day after you install them, nothing beeps, no circuits trip or are disconnected, there is only a tiny red non illuminated flag in a small window behind the cover and as we all know homeowners don't lift the flap on the board unless something trips! Customer would never know they were not protected for years until the next inspection, and when you do see one has failed and go to buy the "cartridge" most manufactures don't actually sell the cartridge as a separate item, you have to buy the whole SPD unit again lol. Maybe they need to make something like an audible signal on fail same as when smoke detector batteries run down.
Totally agree
its about time your back on and i wod like that old consumer unit lol
I'm studying level 1 installations and I've been through dozens of youtube channels to help with my learning and you are by far the best source. Keep up the good work and I can't wait to be competing against you for work 🤣
Love the sound your torque screwdriver makes ❤️
Never mind the sound of his torque screwdriver... When are you putting another video out? 😂😂😂
Alvin ashman 😂😂 soon been so busy and kids have been ill do not had a spare minute 👍
Sounds like an m1 garand
on them hager boards are you finding the Spade connections for the SPD that terminate on the load side of the main switch to be loose ? even after i terminate correctly they literally just pull straight out ? I rang up technical and they said they had a "issue" with the Spade crimps not being the correct size for the main switch Terminals. even though its Low current, I wouldn't like to leave a property knowing a connection is loose.
Once again... nice one Chris. 👍🏻
How do you do the link? Do you do it with croc clips at the board or take the conductors out and wago them together?
I love your vids, good work.
18th edition states that consumer units must be made of non combustible materials. It doesn't state they need to be fire proof or sealed. So long as the IP rating is maintained that is all that is required.
Yes your correct but why not break the mould and go above and beyond.
Correct! I don't understand why people insist on sealing every hole in a consumer unit. Especially when the consumer unit has plastic MCBs and RCDs.
Fire barrier?
I can understand in this case as there is a gaping hole into a stud work wall (fire propagating) but as stated it’s not strictly needed.
bs7671 is a standard you can always go above and beyond , but all you have to acheie is ipx4 top ipx2 ipxxd min .
I'm not a sparky but it's watching and learning that I find useful. Would never attempt anything that I'm not 100% sure of. But I'm trying to understand and get a little knowledge 👍👍. Thanks for video your work is very proffetional.
Grrreat job as ALWAYS! Keep'm coming bro! Cheers from Canada eh
Excellent video yet again 👍🏻
Great video CJR! 😄
This has been your best video
Top Sparks great job.. showing it how it really is
Typo chap on your labelling - “intumescent” @23:20 😊 cheers for the vid!
18th Edition test obviously doesn't cover speeling :-)
Always find your videos interesting bud 👍🏼
I enjoy your videos and you clearly love your work.👍 I do smile when I hear instructors scare stories of do this or don’t do that or you will end up in court. Yes maybe you should but how many electricians or pseudo electricians have appeared in court for negligence or non compliance with Regs?
Nice move by the National Grid delegating responsibility for power surges to the consumer.😉
I think you're reading through the dimmer module, hence the high Ohm measurement.
Have you never tested before continuity of main equipotential bonding ? Quite an important test even before 18th. Also high ohm reading more than likely the resistance through the dimmer. Can also get accessories to fit into the huge back knockouts in Hager dbs. Other than that not bad bud
You said something about getting giving that fuse board to someone. It would be great if I could have it for my students at college for an example
Pulled some wire in my current house to replace older wiring for the light to switch circuits and I saw some brown/light brown/earth at the shop, which I thought was a cool idea. Ended up running triple/earth and sleeved it in the appropriate colours in case we upgrade to powered switches later down the line, though.
bigclive! We need a vid of all the great British electrical geeks together.
Nice video mate as always
Im an 3rd year apprentice and i fitted a SPD 18th edition Hager board, i personally prefer hager boards and Schneider boards.
Hi Chris very interesting video with the torque screwdriver do you need to have it calibrated every 6-12 months to check they are still correct? Cheers great channel
Wylex make a intumescent strip which you can stick on the back of the C/U and bring the cables through a slit. It can also be stuck on the inside of the MCB flap aswell, in case one melts/combusts.
Love Hager boards I only fit them now!
I quite like British General, Screwfix also sell them fully loaded.
Its ok these guys that teach the regs saying you need to do x,y and z, but in the real world it's not always possible, and we do a lot of crap we shouldn't be doing anyway. With spd protection, blame the IET, if they said it must be fitted fair enough, but as usual they don't, so it won't get fitted most of the time, and in 30 years of doing this job I have come across it once on a neighbour's house and don't get me started on torque settings.
I use industrial glue from CEF when fitting the grommit strip, that way it doesn’t slip off....
Quick question for you, what size cable would you use as a bond on 16mm SWA
plugs on hob and cooker no 1/2 insulation on L & N did you change them ?
The torque is a great issue, the most common reason for CU fires. seen it so often. especially in the commercial word. were machines are tossed in over shut down.
The wiring type should have been listed as "A" on the circuit detail chart as it was T&E (PVC/PVC).
R1+R2 isn't enough to prove polarity as the line and cpc could be reversed at an accessory or outlet, R1+R2 and R1+Rn prove everything is where it should be.
You can buy these for Hager boards VM02CE, the last board I did came with only one.
i super glue the grommet strip in about 20 mins before fitting, it helps.
Super glue could be viewed as an accelerant of not fire rated.
@@tresslerj1985 good point, but you used the word 'Could' just saying.
@@arniewheeler4673 shrodingers cat. Untill the CU catches fire and investigation happens, it is neither an Hazard nor nothing to worry about. "Could"
yeah thats something i do when i remember, what gets me is, on the MK boards there are 3 large holes in the back, yet only enough grommet strip for two is provided with a short piece left over why?
What temperature can super glue withstand?
The flash point of super glue is around 80°C.. Dried superglue is fairly resistant to heat but it's strength will be reduced. Typical outdoor temperatures will pose no problems (by typical I mean up to 100-110degrees F).
Great honest video .👍
above and beyond, exactly what i stated a while back, no harm in it, be proud of your finished installation....
Class job mate
I understood that all terminations in a cu for 18th edition were supposed to have mandatory ferrules fitted, as per prefitted live and neutral feeds to busbars and isolators? Not the case?
Good video nice and thorough.
Nice video, but hope you didn't reuse that unsleeved plug for the oven? PS also recently passed my 18th too.
Nice one mate👍
I was wondering if the folding of the conductor to have greater surface area contact under the terminal is stated in the product manufacturers literature or is an electricians tradition.
I don't think it's written down in any electrical documentation or manufacturers instruction as it's a call on the installers part. If the terminal is big enough to accommodate a wire being doubled over, then it should be, it's more of a best working practice than anything else.
18 th edition training basically = Let's legally mug all the sparky's out there for more fooking money.......Bastards........😡
Cheers Chris , nice video.....👍
Cant you lot claim it on your tax return?
Running over thermal insulation in the loft, would that not require a 16mm T&E??
You should take a look at the Fusebox 18th rcbo spd consumer units. Its all I fit now. Technically a dual rcd board doesn't comply with reg
314.2 A single circuit failure should not affect another circuit.
Was always told to leave a bit of spare on cables as if you fit it right and and breaks then what do you do
Before changing any consumer unit I run IR tests on everything, won't fit one unless they all pass, or client agrees to fix faults etc. Changed a board in my earlier years only to find everything tripping with the old rubber insulation being perished. Only made that mistake once. Enjoyed the video, cheers pal.
I always recommend a prework survey before a board change consisting of a full test on the installation. Speeds up a board change no end. RCBO boards as standard.
A lot of customers aren't willing to pay for an EICR before a consumer unit upgrade.
@@ashmanelectricalservices4318 by full system test I mean an individual test on each circuit. A few hours testing agreed with customer before hand. A simple r1r2, Ir, r2. Not as full on as an eicr and doesn't take long in the grand scheme of things and helps highlight any issues. Depending on the outcome of those tests an eicr may well be required. :)
Hi, love the video's, what training center did you do your 18th at, I need to do mine and sounds like a good training center.
Last year I had everything go bang and everyone on my road had the same turn out uk power network lost a neutral at the sub station luck haste sorted it all out and uk power network foot the bill. Would spds stop it happening again??
Nope.. SPD's arrest over voltage surges in the supply, not detect missing neutrals.
Great video Chris! Do you get the homeowner to get an asbestos check before you work on the textured coated ceilings?
Ps have you seen the Brother PTE550WVP label printer, connects to a PC, prints over wi-fi and amongst many things does the labels for CU boards as one long strip
Michael Beckett good question that ! often wonder that myself regarding asbestos within households , artex coatings etc .
Is that necessary as little to no dust was generated?
@@LAnonHubbard it's all about risk and potential. If there is a risk or potential for an asbestos to be released then appropriate working methods set out by the HSE needs to be followed. It's not about will you breathe it in, it's also about will the fibres go elsewhere in the home and need decontamination. If this is the case, any item in the property that can hold a fibre needs to be disposed of or carpets, sofas, clothing, electronics
Sdp up to the client if he wants it which reg states that you most fit it ?
One problem with 18th edition boards is that you will never know if the SPD blows. A solid metal lid on the CU, how many clients will look under the lid unless the power goes off especially if the board is in the garage or under the stairs behind the Dyson.
The customer will have to check it the same time as they do the six monthly RCD test 😂😂😂
Ah, is that where the Dyson is, I'll mention it to the wife.
People actually test the rcd?
I think the only people who test RCDs are sparks.
@@mowcius press the test button?
Congratulations on passing, Godbless,
Bloody marvellous
Great vid again Chris ,
Did you perform an IR on cooker circuit ? I always test through isolator to outlet plate, if you disconnected the oven and hob then completed R1R2 and IR with isolator on (no neon so no need to link out ) that fault would have been highlighted before new CU was installed ?
Keep vids coming always learning 👍
Ryan Mckenna I can't help thinking that it was just the 2 gang outlet that was faulty.
You’d presume the cable between isolator and outlet would be disconnected both ends and IR performed between cores.....well I did 😁
Interesting I have never tested N-R2 before, I guess now with AFDDs that is a good idea.
Just a quick one
How is 0.33 ohms higher resistance than of 0.55 ohms?
If the groumet is coming off on the fusebox, I always put glue onto the groumet and it's magic... Never comes off.
Hey Chris, firstly great vid and missed not having one last week 😅.
Where did you get the Unit from and what label maker are you using?
Cheers lad and keep them coming.
Forget the haters 😂
what a cool board
I have not been fitting SPD's because it is not mandatory in a domestic environment unless the requirements of the equation are met..... And yes, I mostly check rn's and r2's on my installs. :) Great video and congrats on the pass. As if you would have failed dude........ :)
I was taught on my 18th that if the price of installing an spd is higher than the price of the electronics likely to be damaged by a Serge. Sounds iffy when he told us but that was he said
DaC27 96 I’d say if the customer doesn’t think the extra £40-80 for spd isnt worth protecting their electronically equipment then note it on cert and don’t worry about it . You can’t know the total price of electronically equipment in someone’s property.
@@robswingler It's not the cost of the SPD that's the issue but the cost of the spark to come out and do it. Really needs to be a consumer replaceable item assuming one is needed at all.
Hypatiakitten I only fit one when upgrading boards
Finally we can cut the seal guilt free! Do you have a tool to reseal it? Would love a recommendation.
Get one from eBay.
Artisan Electrics I’ve pulled plenty and resealed them, got some seals from eBay and crimped them with snips. the guys i did my apprenticeship with, used to cut and pull these main fuses without batting an eyelid so it was normal to me. But I’ve read so many horror stories online recently about the carriers coming away and them blowing up and what not, it’s made me think twice. I know if the board is isolated and you carry out the right procedures then there shouldn’t be an issue. How many of you out there make sure you megger the tails before you put fuse back in incase (however unlikely) live has snagged on the metal board?
Yes they are available in every tool supply store!
They go under the name Snips or Sidecutters ;0)
Dude just out of pure curiosity. Did you get copyright flagged for the use of that song at the start?
GN3 said PEB's should read 0.05 Ohm max. Dunno if that still applies to 18th.
Nice work,!
I have been fitting Hager SPD board's since January now, you can't get much better than them. But got to say nice looking board and all those labels on it? I put mine underneath the flap it's not like anyone reads them anyway, May aswel make it look nice. Good vid bud!
Labelling giving instruction should be visible... RCD test label, Next inspection & test label etc. Everything else can be hidden underneath the cover.
@@ashmanelectricalservices4318 It will be visible when you lift the flap, which is what you would have to do if you need to do anything on the board ; )
@@serenetysteel7007 No homeowner is ever gonna lift the cover to check how frequently to test the RCD or when the next test is due, at least if it's clearly visible, half the works already done.
@@ashmanelectricalservices4318 I have met only 1 homeowner that has ever tested their RCD out of hundreds, despite an RCD test quarterly label being present in full view of the world. Likewise for commercial customers who have never tested an RCBO or RCD full full labeling being present
Plus you have to lift the lid to check the RCD!
did you really re-use the old 13amp plug???
Hi! I have been watching your video really interested video and I have been learn a lots also I call myself electrician but I am not nearly up there, do you mind if I ask how many years are on this work thanks
Very cool...
what label maker are you using Chris?
I thought the Regs required 25mm tails now. I always upgrade them.
Artisan Electrics not if main fuse is 60A. You can just about get away with an 80A if clipped direct on 16mm tails
Basically a myth, your design dictates what size your cables need to be
Very helpful 🙌
You are brilliant
So how much do these Hagar boards cost?
Old colours? How long does wiring last?
Where does it say in the 18th edition that you can pull th main fuse? Can you give me a reg number?