I don't know if you've talked about it before, but I'd be curious to see what more major injuries you've had throughout your time climbing and how you've dealt with them. I'd also love to know what you think of the idea that a major part of becoming a good climber is just not getting injured, as you have a good perspective about it.
I’m lucky enough to not have had any major injuries at all, just a few finger tweaks lasting 1-2 weeks and a lot of bicep stuff that’s heals up quick. Yeah I’m totally for putting injury prevention above super hard training, and it should always be a priority. I do lots of little things throughout my sessions to optimize for not getting hurt- a good example of this is that I usually only try boulders with intense crimps in the first 30-or-so minutes of every session, so I don’t hurt my fingers when they are tired after climbing for a while. Lots of little things like this. Because longevity in climbing is so important!
Haha yeah I actually messaged this mystery youtuber recently to reschedule ;) They’re super busy so it’s been hard to nail down a date, but I think it’s just a matter of time :)
Are you both able to climb equal or even stronger after a rest week? And if it is the case, how??? I need like a proper progression sessions just for 4 or 5 days off
Yeah I find the first day back off rest week I’m a little shaky, but days 2-4 back from rest week I usually feel super good! Then it slowly returns to normal as the training volume picks back up. I think the more experience you have with training for 3-4 weeks then taking a rest week the more your body will start to accept/benefit from the process. And actually Maddie is usually good to train hard even on day 1 back bc she has been taking rest weeks for so long, whereas I have only been doing them for about 1-2 years
Have you ever experimented with creatine and what's your opinion for bouldering ? I started experimenting with it, and it helped me reach way past through my pulling strength plateau. I've been seeing faster, steady improvements on my weighted pullups after a year of super slow progress, and unlocked the one arm pullup to a point where it feels quite easy when I had been training it for close to two years without ever achieving it before (although think some supplementary exercises I started doing around the same time might have played a role there too). I'm now unsure if I want to go off it, because I'd probably maintain my pulling strength which is not my limiting factor, and it's probably not helping with finger strength (and making me just a little bit heavier). But at the same time, I feel like it helps me do high intensity training. Should I maybe just use it periodically for base strength cycles ?
Maddie here - this is a great question! I actually use a form of creatine called kre-alkaline which doesn’t cause bloating, which is great for climbers! I would absolutely take it instalments. I take it daily about a month out from a major competition and through the season. This year, I took it from April-early June, then again a for a few weeks leading up to the World Championships in August. I would suggest doing two month intervals with it. You don’t want your body to get used to it to a point where it isn’t helping you anymore. Keep in mind though I’m not a dietician, I’m just a person with experience! Do some research to make sure it’s the right fit for you!
@@richardsonsclimbing Thanks a lot! A lot of people claim it's deleterious for climbing because of the weight gain, so it's nice to know I'm not crazy for thinking it can be helpful in certain situations for bouldering. Cheers!
I don't know if you've talked about it before, but I'd be curious to see what more major injuries you've had throughout your time climbing and how you've dealt with them. I'd also love to know what you think of the idea that a major part of becoming a good climber is just not getting injured, as you have a good perspective about it.
I’m lucky enough to not have had any major injuries at all, just a few finger tweaks lasting 1-2 weeks and a lot of bicep stuff that’s heals up quick.
Yeah I’m totally for putting injury prevention above super hard training, and it should always be a priority. I do lots of little things throughout my sessions to optimize for not getting hurt- a good example of this is that I usually only try boulders with intense crimps in the first 30-or-so minutes of every session, so I don’t hurt my fingers when they are tired after climbing for a while. Lots of little things like this. Because longevity in climbing is so important!
10-15 episodes ago you mentioned a potential collab with a mystery youtuber (which I'm pretty sure was Hannah Morris).
Did that end up happening?
Haha yeah I actually messaged this mystery youtuber recently to reschedule ;)
They’re super busy so it’s been hard to nail down a date, but I think it’s just a matter of time :)
Are you both able to climb equal or even stronger after a rest week? And if it is the case, how??? I need like a proper progression sessions just for 4 or 5 days off
Yeah I find the first day back off rest week I’m a little shaky, but days 2-4 back from rest week I usually feel super good! Then it slowly returns to normal as the training volume picks back up.
I think the more experience you have with training for 3-4 weeks then taking a rest week the more your body will start to accept/benefit from the process.
And actually Maddie is usually good to train hard even on day 1 back bc she has been taking rest weeks for so long, whereas I have only been doing them for about 1-2 years
Have you ever experimented with creatine and what's your opinion for bouldering ?
I started experimenting with it, and it helped me reach way past through my pulling strength plateau. I've been seeing faster, steady improvements on my weighted pullups after a year of super slow progress, and unlocked the one arm pullup to a point where it feels quite easy when I had been training it for close to two years without ever achieving it before (although think some supplementary exercises I started doing around the same time might have played a role there too). I'm now unsure if I want to go off it, because I'd probably maintain my pulling strength which is not my limiting factor, and it's probably not helping with finger strength (and making me just a little bit heavier). But at the same time, I feel like it helps me do high intensity training. Should I maybe just use it periodically for base strength cycles ?
Maddie here - this is a great question! I actually use a form of creatine called kre-alkaline which doesn’t cause bloating, which is great for climbers!
I would absolutely take it instalments. I take it daily about a month out from a major competition and through the season. This year, I took it from April-early June, then again a for a few weeks leading up to the World Championships in August.
I would suggest doing two month intervals with it. You don’t want your body to get used to it to a point where it isn’t helping you anymore. Keep in mind though I’m not a dietician, I’m just a person with experience! Do some research to make sure it’s the right fit for you!
@@richardsonsclimbing Thanks a lot! A lot of people claim it's deleterious for climbing because of the weight gain, so it's nice to know I'm not crazy for thinking it can be helpful in certain situations for bouldering. Cheers!
is there a reason to why you live in germany, are the gyms so much better than the ones in Canada?
Yeah exactly, Canada has ok gyms but Germany/Europe is a huge step up
@@richardsonsclimbing i see, thanks