Yes!! We are so excited to have Paul and crew doing our building! We know we are in good hands!! His attention to detail gives us the confidence that it will be done right! Awsome edit Justin!
It's crazy to see how far you have come in the time you have been doing this UA-cam deal. I found your channel by accident looking up something for windows when you were doing your remodel to sell. I was like wait! That's the SKINNY PINCH killer from MWW!! Glad to see all of your hard work paying off. It would be hard for me to find a builder after watching you and Kyle from RR. You guys are the masters! Keep it up!
Will be watching this build, as we are planning to build a shouse about this size. 54-60 wide by 72-80 long shop/garage, and a 54-60 wide by 32 long house in the future. Can’t wait to see it come together.
For those that don't have a crew to help, one way to confirm the lines for the front and back are spaced properly is to find the center of the space. This can be done with the diagonal crossed lines. Then from that center point, using your tape measure or a string, make a big circle. The radius you have measured should just meet up with the lines you have attached to the batten boards. Or, start with the center point, then add your outer edges.
@@MrPostFrame With all of your videos, as well as of many other high quality builders like yourself, it's definitely not a lack of knowledge that's keeping me from getting my build started. It's how the build is executed. As a one man crew, I have to take a bunch more time to plan out how I'm going to attempt to get things done. And "planning it to death" is a serious issue for me.
I’m curious how you center a door on the gable end of a post frame it seems it would be necessary to have the center post going to the top of the truss. Do you just use a lvl header and run your post on top of the header like you do on the garage doors?
Hey guys, at first I thought you were starting on Ryan & Kelsey's build until I saw the swing set & pond? This family has a nice piece of property for their shop & house! Looking forward to the complete build, Looks like you're going to have to deal with the wind all the time? Take care guys and don't work too hard!
How well do you check soil using post builds seems like for example your home is overweight for each footing and in time your posts will start sinking into the soil ? Have you worked this out w soil and structural engineering?
It's important when building that you get below undisturbed soil and below the frost line with your piers/foundation. After that, here in Iowa we have engineered trusses that are set every 8ft.
@@MrPostFrame Hi I think that 8 ft centers are ok for a pole barn but my thoughts are your adding living conditions to these buildings which adds 1000s of more lbs weight to each footing and a second story adds even more 1000s of lbs to each pier correct ? Just a thought the adding of a home/ weight to a pier block over time can or will push the piers deeper into Iowa's earth . Food for thought sir. You do nice work but you may be overlooking the biggest part of a home no one sees till the damage is done .
2000lbs/SQFT for soil bearing in a 2ft dia hole is app 12000 lbs, a 30x8 foot is 240 SQFT / footing at 40 lbs / SQFT is 9,600 lbs. per footing, well within the 12,000 lbs. note also these piers are really only holding the 8’ of outside wall and 240 SQFT of roof load at 10lbs/SQFT as the slab on grade using 2000 lbs/ SQFT will support interior framing and wall load and live loads. Main thing you have to worry about on footings is frost line.
@@user-cb2427 I dont believe the builder is using 2 foot diameter tubes ? I also believe that square foot loads need to be greater than building materials and Iowa snow loads . If I were building these homes I would put a solid concrete foundation around the building perimeter. Wider is better and will distribute any loads over time much better than a tube of concrete even below frost levels for a home agree?
Unless I missed something, you were not using the normal tubes that you have in the past, these looked like about 18" and wrapped and fastened together. How were you hold them level, you had nothing to fasten them to like wood box ...... keep up the good work
Was that concrete mixed on site? That's what it appeared to me, I never knew that was possible. And how many yards can they deliver per truck load? I'm no builder. Just homeowner diy type. Really enjoy all your videos, great job and explaining all the process.
I know your using a laser for checking level, like a transit but dont they make rotary lasers with auto square and angle and all that for doing these layouts? You set it in one corner, highest point and it projects square lines and triangle lines in the direction of structure. Wouldn't that make the layout easier instead of struggling with string lines and plastic tapes in the wind?
I am really surprised that I did not see any consolidation of the concrete taking place. Also, I take it by your practiced process that you typically "wet stick" your column bases. Wet sticking is when reinforcement, and anchors, are pushed into the concrete after it is poured. I wish people would stop this practice, it is not allowed by the IBC, International Building Code. Section 1901 states that the IBC follows ACI, American Concrete Institute, recommendations. Nowhere in the ACI standard is wet sticking acceptable. Now you may argue that "it will be strong enough" or "it will be fine" or even "most people do it this way and buildings aren't falling down", but it is a bad habit. Be one of the good guys and start consolidating your concrete and framing the column caps so they are hanging in place before you place the concrete. When the concrete is vibrated, it will fill under the post base. It may never happen, and probably won't, but someday the owner may need every bit of design strength when a natural disaster strikes.
It's also code to install electrical outlets with the ground prong at the top (except in Chicago where it's code to install them sideways), but how often do you see that?
too much work the way you're doing it if you know where the first wall goes, do a 6 8 10 and square a side wall, get your length...from there its almost done....batting boards .....phfffft
Yes!! We are so excited to have Paul and crew doing our building! We know we are in good hands!! His attention to detail gives us the confidence that it will be done right! Awsome edit Justin!
Excited to be making progress!
Yes Paul does a good job but he ain't no Kyle Stumpenhorst! Yet.....
Gotta love that Iowa weather, winter coats one day and shorts the next..
"Never know what you're going to get...it's like a box of chocolates." lol
It's crazy to see how far you have come in the time you have been doing this UA-cam deal. I found your channel by accident looking up something for windows when you were doing your remodel to sell. I was like wait! That's the SKINNY PINCH killer from MWW!! Glad to see all of your hard work paying off. It would be hard for me to find a builder after watching you and Kyle from RR. You guys are the masters! Keep it up!
Thank you! Appreciate the comment and the support all this time!
Great video. Your explanation of everything was awesome. Really enjoy watching you guys. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for watching!
I hope Jake realizes how valuable the education he's getting is, I know I would.
Will be watching this build, as we are planning to build a shouse about this size. 54-60 wide by 72-80 long shop/garage, and a 54-60 wide by 32 long house in the future. Can’t wait to see it come together.
Sound very similar to this project. Thanks for watching and good luck with your build.
@@MrPostFrame you want to come down to Carrollton, MO and build it? 😎
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching!
For those that don't have a crew to help, one way to confirm the lines for the front and back are spaced properly is to find the center of the space. This can be done with the diagonal crossed lines. Then from that center point, using your tape measure or a string, make a big circle. The radius you have measured should just meet up with the lines you have attached to the batten boards. Or, start with the center point, then add your outer edges.
Thanks for sharing. Here's the solo layout for our personal build. ua-cam.com/video/Jwba8_jBXwM/v-deo.html
@@MrPostFrame With all of your videos, as well as of many other high quality builders like yourself, it's definitely not a lack of knowledge that's keeping me from getting my build started. It's how the build is executed. As a one man crew, I have to take a bunch more time to plan out how I'm going to attempt to get things done. And "planning it to death" is a serious issue for me.
I like to know . How I can start preparing the ground and if I can get in touch with you guys thank God bless you amazing work here
If you have questions you can email info@mrpostframe.com
How much time do you have from finishing the pour, to setting the brackets?
When setting the strings to get the building, I found it is easier to set long axis stings parallel then square inside these lines.
Where do you get those footing/pier forms and what are the called?
Buenos días excelente video 👏👏saludos desde chile y 👊👊💯💯
I’m curious how you center a door on the gable end of a post frame it seems it would be necessary to have the center post going to the top of the truss. Do you just use a lvl header and run your post on top of the header like you do on the garage doors?
Hey guys, at first I thought you were starting on Ryan & Kelsey's build until I saw the swing set & pond? This family has a nice piece of property for their shop & house! Looking forward to the complete build, Looks like you're going to have to deal with the wind all the time?
Take care guys and don't work too hard!
Constant wind unnerves me.
Yes, it's pretty windy out here. Should be interesting when the trusses go up.
Curious to why I don’t see many builders use rebar cages in these piers?
How well do you check soil using post builds seems like for example your home is overweight for each footing and in time your posts will start sinking into the soil ? Have you worked this out w soil and structural engineering?
It's important when building that you get below undisturbed soil and below the frost line with your piers/foundation. After that, here in Iowa we have engineered trusses that are set every 8ft.
@@MrPostFrame Hi I think that 8 ft centers are ok for a pole barn but my thoughts are your adding living conditions to these buildings which adds 1000s of more lbs weight to each footing and a second story adds even more 1000s of lbs to each pier correct ? Just a thought the adding of a home/ weight to a pier block over time can or will push the piers deeper into Iowa's earth . Food for thought sir. You do nice work but you may be overlooking the biggest part of a home no one sees till the damage is done .
2000lbs/SQFT for soil bearing in a 2ft dia hole is app 12000 lbs, a 30x8 foot is 240 SQFT / footing at 40 lbs / SQFT is 9,600 lbs. per footing, well within the 12,000 lbs. note also these piers are really only holding the 8’ of outside wall and 240 SQFT of roof load at 10lbs/SQFT as the slab on grade using 2000 lbs/ SQFT will support interior framing and wall load and live loads. Main thing you have to worry about on footings is frost line.
@@user-cb2427 I dont believe the builder is using 2 foot diameter tubes ? I also believe that square foot loads need to be greater than building materials and Iowa snow loads . If I were building these homes I would put a solid concrete foundation around the building perimeter. Wider is better and will distribute any loads over time much better than a tube of concrete even below frost levels for a home agree?
No seismic rebar cages required in each of the concrete piers?
So no rebar needed in the post foundations?
Unless I missed something, you were not using the normal tubes that you have in the past, these looked like about 18" and wrapped and fastened together. How were you hold them level, you had nothing to fasten them to like wood box ...... keep up the good work
thats exactly what I was looking to build. Do you do any builds in Michigan?
Just building in Iowa right now.
Was that concrete mixed on site? That's what it appeared to me, I never knew that was possible. And how many yards can they deliver per truck load? I'm no builder. Just homeowner diy type. Really enjoy all your videos, great job and explaining all the process.
Yes concrete was mixed on site. They get about 10 yards per truck. We needed about 14-15 for these piers so it took two trucks.
Thanks for watching!
Great job
Thanks!
I know your using a laser for checking level, like a transit but dont they make rotary lasers with auto square and angle and all that for doing these layouts? You set it in one corner, highest point and it projects square lines and triangle lines in the direction of structure. Wouldn't that make the layout easier instead of struggling with string lines and plastic tapes in the wind?
There is the Stabila-LA-180L-Layout-Station-w-Auto-Alignment-Set-02180 but it cost about $1900.00
@@jimr9898 worth it...is it blue tooth? Would be great to have connectivity for purposes of documentation
Batter Boards. Let's just call them what they are. Especially with timber framing the correct descriptive term is important. Good vid though.
they r called batter boards not batton boards
You are correct...;)
I am really surprised that I did not see any consolidation of the concrete taking place. Also, I take it by your practiced process that you typically "wet stick" your column bases. Wet sticking is when reinforcement, and anchors, are pushed into the concrete after it is poured. I wish people would stop this practice, it is not allowed by the IBC, International Building Code. Section 1901 states that the IBC follows ACI, American Concrete Institute, recommendations. Nowhere in the ACI standard is wet sticking acceptable. Now you may argue that "it will be strong enough" or "it will be fine" or even "most people do it this way and buildings aren't falling down", but it is a bad habit. Be one of the good guys and start consolidating your concrete and framing the column caps so they are hanging in place before you place the concrete. When the concrete is vibrated, it will fill under the post base. It may never happen, and probably won't, but someday the owner may need every bit of design strength when a natural disaster strikes.
It's also code to install electrical outlets with the ground prong at the top (except in Chicago where it's code to install them sideways), but how often do you see that?
Watching his reminds me of the old saying "measure with a micrometer, mark it with a crayon and cut it with an axe"
Ha...whatever it takes!
Out of the years watching Marshall this was the first time I've heard you say a bad word and I was disappointed
Sorry Brian. 🤷🏻♂️
Everything you do is good except when it comes to squaring a building you sure make it complicated when is not
Thanks...not complicated just really detailed for DIY.
pros at work is it really that easy i know NOT
Wouldn’t say this is a starter diy step
.
too much work the way you're doing it
if you know where the first wall goes, do a 6 8 10 and square a side wall, get your length...from there its almost done....batting boards .....phfffft
Thanks!
"Shouse" stupid trendy name C R I N G E
You’re welcome to call it whatever you’d like!
Camera man needs some training lol
Haha