Hi this is Bill Pentz. Most of your cyclone and blower are evolved from my designs that I have been refining since 1994. You have done a pretty good job, but there are a few things that you need to consider for safety and ability of people with lesser metal and woodworking skills to be able to build your units. 1) the 1/4" plate is heavy but is the right stuff to use for your impeller base. 1/8" plate will warp all over unless you have a very fine welder and good heat sink. 2) Your noise levels at over 100 dB were not unexpected but can be greatly reduced with a few minor changes. a) You really do need to be using backward inclined blades. If you divide your blower into six equal pie shaped wedges, then you should offset your blades 2.5" from those division lines to create backward inclined blades. Backward inclined and your already backward curved blades make a huge difference in blower noise. b) You also need to sharpen your blower gore point instead of a gradual curved bend and add a second matching gore point on the inside outer portion of your blower to create a noise canceling effect. Sharpening gives you better performance and a level of noise that can be canceled. c) Also, I chose to weld on both sides of my impeller blades. If you just weld on one side, it should be the blade backs to reduce turbulence to also help with noise. 3) Your cyclone and mine are identical except I continue the cylinder up instead of just closing off with the air ramp. Many are poorly copying my design both ways now. The advantage of coming up is you save having to add a duct piece on the front of your blower and can just make a 9" diameter hole. You need that same sized duct coming out of your cyclone if you want optimum separation and airflow for an 18" diameter cyclone. 4) I found bolting the motor directly to the Baltic Birch plywood and using Loc-tite holds up for a while, but eventually vibrations cause the Baltic Birch to fail. I shifted over to using a steel motor mounting plate that I hold in place similar to how you hold your blower intake duct. 5) I found having my blower base and blades laser cut costs little and greatly minimized balancing. Also, I made my base have a tight fit to the compression bushing arbor which reduced runout and made for a smoother less wobbly impeller. 6) I also tried mounting the metal blower sides to the Baltic Birch. Turns out they will eventually develop openings from being banged hard by debris when you forget to empty your collection bin. A better technique is to make the blower larger in diameter, securing with carriage bolts outside of the metal which rests in 1/8" deep grooves in the Baltic Birch. 7) You can buy ducting flanges in the diameter you want that have a flared base and foam insulation making it far easier to install than the complex hole. 8) Many will want to make their cyclone and blower parts from galvanized steel. Galvanized reacts with silicone to break down and lose its seal. You might instead want to use a good gutter sealant. 9) you can take your identical sized blower vanes and move them out on the same sized base to create a larger overhang and 16" total diameter impeller. I found with these 4" tall blades, that is the ideal size to use your motor full capacity without risking burnout from moving too much air. 10) Please don't ever turn on a newly made impeller that is not encaged in a blower housing. One of my buddies started making impellers for me and he had bad welds. A blade broke loose and destroyed the blower housing plus the whole rest of the impeller before I could kill power! Bill Pentz billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/blower.php
@@E_L12 If you look at the blower housing the outlet has one side that merges into the decreasing blower spiral. On the other side there is a sharp 90+ degree bend. That sharp bend is known by many as the gore point. Much of the blower noise is created when the exiting air hits this sharp bend. If you took a dowel nearly as tall as the outlet sides, cut the dowel in half lengthwise making a half cylinder, and mounted that on a stick where you could slide it in and out on the smooth side of the outlet, you would find a spot where the noise it makes comes close to canceling the noise from the gore point. Between changing the blade angles and installing a second artificial gore point you should cut overall noise to as low as one quarter as much. Gluing neoprene to the blower sides, top and bottom will help even more. If you use insulated ducting for your outlet that will quiet the noise even more. Would you send me an email? bpentz@cnets.net
I know your struggles on the back side, it’s something I go through. glad to see you making progress and getting another build up. Take your time we will wait .
20 years ago, a chiropractor got me through an L5-S1 disc prolapse. He said I was so close to emergency surgery that he expected to be calling ambulance when I arrived. It was never needed. Results were was so impressive that I did the training. That all said, sacro-iliac joint pain is often diagnosed as disc or sciatic. Chiro is very good with SI joints. Getting them balanced takes load off the discs and facets. Win win.
@@Dave5843-d9mMan I wish I had a Dr like that willing to operate with just one ruptured disc. I just had my second surgery to take care of the second disc replacement and L3-5 fused to the already fused L1-2. In addition they removed a 10 mm cist from my spinal cord only to find an SI joint tear. Unfortunately no form of therapy or rehab had any effect so it required fusion as well. It's a miserable thing to go through and I wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy.
@@bushratbeachbum it doesn't matter what they use... They don't weld over mill scale! My old buddy use to weld for NASA. Also doesn't matter who you weld for. You weld over mill scale and you will fail any kind of certification testing. Doesn't matter if you're a pipe welder or work for NASA.
Great build. No doubt, a better blower than my one. I like the idea of bolting the housing to the motor and having the opening for installing the impeller on the bottom. Makes more sense now that I think about it. Do you want to install an inlet screen to protect the blower from large pieces?
Thanks! I thought the bottom opening for especially made sense since I’ll be connecting the cyclone with a big piece of flex hose. I actually completely forgot about putting a screen in it, I was going to do that. Might add it yet.
I'm from Ukraine, I've been watching your work for a long time, I want to thank you for the accuracy, honest attitude to work, I'm a teacher of labor, wood, metal, I'm older than you, but you teach me, THANK YOU!!!! SORRY FOR MY BAD ENGLISH.
Can‘t wait to see the last video … it‘s always a joy to see you working … I like the way you find solutions for the process and the result is outstanding. Thx for sharing
I get the same joyous feeling watching you(r videos) as I get watching Lionel Messi playing soccer! For those not in the knowing; one of the best players ever to walk the pitch.
Awesome work. As far as butt welding sheet metal - you want to stack tacks. Tack every 2", then come back and put a tack on each tack. That will move your heat around and minimize distortion. Also prevents blowing holes in the the metal. Other than that, awesome work buddy. Leagues ahead of me.
I’ve missed you on UA-cam. It’s great to see you back. I hope to see more of your work as time goes by. Thanks for some interesting, educational videos.
Awesome to see you back Jer, and also awesome to see some build videos being successful on UA-cam. The algorithm really beats them down these days. Keep up the awesome work, you're quickly turning into the next Matthias.
Your cyclone and blower look like they will last forever and work extremely well. They far outclass the ones I made. You can take as much time as you like and I will always be happy to see a new video from you. This was not a long wait.
I'm just 13 mins in, and don't really do any work like this, but it's really impressive how resourceful and creative you are with repurposing shop items. Using the drill press stand as a mandrel, or the drill bit as a router guide, testing the screws in the plywood... It's not so much about the specific tips, or how to build this exact item, but the philosophy of being adaptable in completing a task. Fun to watch.
A nice little project but sometimes what I find most interesting is the simple and effective way you develop fabrication methods to accomplish the build, Bravo.
Never cease to be impressed by your sound thought process. Amazing engineering and inventor mix. I’d be curious by a financial breakdown of your final assembly.
I really love that you are back posting more regularly, I have been watching for years and still drop everything when I see a new video from you! Thanks you for making such great videos
Normal household Silicone sealer is a bit too soft to stand up to basically being "Sandblasted" for very long but, on the flip side I am sure the same joints would eventually get packed with saw dust anyway so it only has to last long enough for that to happen. For future (re)builds I would recommend some good quality automotive seam sealer like "SEM 29372 Gray Seam Sealer". The nice bonus part about the SEM tubes is that the nozzles screw on, which makes unclogging them or even replacing them entirely so much easier. The downside to SEM sealant is that its too good at being impermeable so it takes some specialized paint to get it to stick to it.
Love it. The way you made that cover, making the little wavy bits individually and then gluing them to the disc, was class. Great build, really enjoyed it.
Great to see more videos in my feed. Glad your doing well. A tip, when butwelding sheet metal, when you can. Support the back with copper. No melt through, traps the gas, and weld won't stick.
Beautiful design. Glad to see you creating again. For welding thin metal try series of spot welds, cooling with shop air between passes, instead of continuous bead. Very thin gap will allow good penetration. Loved the rabbet detail so sheet metal would be flush and help alignment.
It’s also very possible that it won’t be fine haha. Cyclones create a LOT of resistance, so I think it’ll be enough to pull the amps down from 24 to 20, but if not, I’ll grind a bit off the ends of the blades.
Jeremy, it's always a joy following you along doing the right things the right way. Keep your head up buddy, looking forward to seeing it all come together. I also noted your awesome beltgrinder design was copied a fricking lot, take that as a compliment ;)
So pleased seeing you back making great projects.. I’ve struggled MH wise since a kid aged 14 I was abused by 9 elders, Im 61 now and still struggle with many issues like PTSD confidence and self dislike, but you can’t change history so i find it beneficial too help others etc which in turn helps me feel a little better about myself, i make projects and give the profits away to charities.. I carry my backpack everywhere with a road map inside of where i’ve been/visited, the scars both physical and mental are the routes on that map, but, these routes are where i’ve once been and not where i’m determined to be heading now.. Your a talented lad one inspiring others so please keep it up for the good of us all and that includes you too.. NOODLES….
Fantastic build dude. A really professional look about it. I am so glad to see you back on here mate it was so long since you made a video prior to these. Great video buddy 😉👍🏻👍🏻
Glad to see you back. 👍. Your videos always provide inspiration and demonstrate problem solving I can apply on other projects even if I'm not building the same things. Thanks for all you do
Beautiful work. I briefly considered building my own dust collector in a manner similar to what you're doing - but seeing the level of detail, attention and skill you've put in to this build, I would not have been able to replicate your success.
@Jer Schmidt if you're not on telegram then someone is impersonating you and telling people they won to drive them to telegram. Same exact pic and name but on telegram. There was a post above, bow deleted that seemed counterfeit. I have a screenshot if you need it.
This is the most impressive and best built dust collector blower what I have ever seen in youtube. This must pull A LOT of air. I can't wait to see more progress of this system 👌
Hi this is Bill Pentz. Most of your cyclone and blower are evolved from my designs that I have been refining since 1994. You have done a pretty good job, but there are a few things that you need to consider for safety and ability of people with lesser metal and woodworking skills to be able to build your units. 1) the 1/4" plate is heavy but is the right stuff to use for your impeller base. 1/8" plate will warp all over unless you have a very fine welder and good heat sink. 2) Your noise levels at over 100 dB were not unexpected but can be greatly reduced with a few minor changes. a) You really do need to be using backward inclined blades. If you divide your blower into six equal pie shaped wedges, then you should offset your blades 2.5" from those division lines to create backward inclined blades. Backward inclined and your already backward curved blades make a huge difference in blower noise. b) You also need to sharpen your blower gore point instead of a gradual curved bend and add a second matching gore point on the inside outer portion of your blower to create a noise canceling effect. Sharpening gives you better performance and a level of noise that can be canceled. c) Also, I chose to weld on both sides of my impeller blades. If you just weld on one side, it should be the blade backs to reduce turbulence to also help with noise. 3) Your cyclone and mine are identical except I continue the cylinder up instead of just closing off with the air ramp. Many are poorly copying my design both ways now. The advantage of coming up is you save having to add a duct piece on the front of your blower and can just make a 9" diameter hole. You need that same sized duct coming out of your cyclone if you want optimum separation and airflow for an 18" diameter cyclone. 4) I found bolting the motor directly to the Baltic Birch plywood and using Loc-tite holds up for a while, but eventually vibrations cause the Baltic Birch to fail. I shifted over to using a steel motor mounting plate that I hold in place similar to how you hold your blower intake duct. 5) I found having my blower base and blades laser cut costs little and greatly minimized balancing. Also, I made my base have a tight fit to the compression bushing arbor which reduced runout and made for a smoother less wobbly impeller. 6) I also tried mounting the metal blower sides to the Baltic Birch. Turns out they will eventually develop openings from being banged hard by debris when you forget to empty your collection bin. A better technique is to make the blower larger in diameter, securing with carriage bolts outside of the metal which rests in 1/8" deep grooves in the Baltic Birch. 7) You can buy ducting flanges in the diameter you want that have a flared base and foam insulation making it far easier to install than the complex hole. 8) Many will want to make their cyclone and blower parts from galvanized steel. Galvanized reacts with silicone to break down and lose its seal. You might instead want to use a good gutter sealant. 9) you can take your identical sized blower vanes and move them out on the same sized base to create a larger overhang and 16" total diameter impeller. I found with these 4" tall blades, that is the ideal size to use your motor full capacity without risking burnout from moving too much air. 10) Please don't ever turn on a newly made impeller that is not encaged in a blower housing. One of my buddies started making impellers for me and he had bad welds. A blade broke loose and destroyed the blower housing plus the whole rest of the impeller before I could kill power!
Bill Pentz billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/blower.php
@BillPentz What exactly do you mean by:
'a second matching gore point on the inside outer portion of your blower' ?
😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
@@E_L12 If you look at the blower housing the outlet has one side that merges into the decreasing blower spiral. On the other side there is a sharp 90+ degree bend. That sharp bend is known by many as the gore point. Much of the blower noise is created when the exiting air hits this sharp bend. If you took a dowel nearly as tall as the outlet sides, cut the dowel in half lengthwise making a half cylinder, and mounted that on a stick where you could slide it in and out on the smooth side of the outlet, you would find a spot where the noise it makes comes close to canceling the noise from the gore point. Between changing the blade angles and installing a second artificial gore point you should cut overall noise to as low as one quarter as much. Gluing neoprene to the blower sides, top and bottom will help even more. If you use insulated ducting for your outlet that will quiet the noise even more. Would you send me an email? bpentz@cnets.net
I know your struggles on the back side, it’s something I go through. glad to see you making progress and getting another build up. Take your time we will wait .
20 years ago, a chiropractor got me through an L5-S1 disc prolapse. He said I was so close to emergency surgery that he expected to be calling ambulance when I arrived. It was never needed. Results were was so impressive that I did the training. That all said, sacro-iliac joint pain is often diagnosed as disc or sciatic. Chiro is very good with SI joints. Getting them balanced takes load off the discs and facets. Win win.
@@Dave5843-d9mMan I wish I had a Dr like that willing to operate with just one ruptured disc. I just had my second surgery to take care of the second disc replacement and L3-5 fused to the already fused L1-2. In addition they removed a 10 mm cist from my spinal cord only to find an SI joint tear. Unfortunately no form of therapy or rehab had any effect so it required fusion as well. It's a miserable thing to go through and I wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy.
I said it once and I say it again: Continue like this and one day you'll score a job at NASA, building spacecrafts. Absolutely brilliant work.
NASA has you grind off any mill scale when welding...
@@jeffallen3382 i doubt they grind it off by hand.
Or do you weld for nasa?
@@bushratbeachbum it doesn't matter what they use... They don't weld over mill scale! My old buddy use to weld for NASA.
Also doesn't matter who you weld for. You weld over mill scale and you will fail any kind of certification testing. Doesn't matter if you're a pipe welder or work for NASA.
@@jeffallen3382 Jer is young. He will improve over time. No master was born as such. 5% talent and 95% continues training.
@@caigner LOL
Great build. No doubt, a better blower than my one. I like the idea of bolting the housing to the motor and having the opening for installing the impeller on the bottom. Makes more sense now that I think about it. Do you want to install an inlet screen to protect the blower from large pieces?
Thanks! I thought the bottom opening for especially made sense since I’ll be connecting the cyclone with a big piece of flex hose. I actually completely forgot about putting a screen in it, I was going to do that. Might add it yet.
Hopefully as the blower is upstream of the cyclone there should not be any large pieces reaching it
@@Jer_Schmidt 1/4" Hardware cloth fencing is good, provides a stiff backer.
I have a Delta 50-179 that has a plastic impeller that all the wood travels through. It has lasted 32 years.
@@onjofilms
Whoa I would not have expected that. 🤯 Good to know!
I'm from Ukraine, I've been watching your work for a long time, I want to thank you for the accuracy, honest attitude to work, I'm a teacher of labor, wood, metal, I'm older than you, but you teach me, THANK YOU!!!! SORRY FOR MY BAD ENGLISH.
вітаю🇺🇦
“We don’t know what 3phase is in the US” gave me a good chuckle. Good seeing you on camera again.
I love the the squiggly seal, efficient and good looking!
Can‘t wait to see the last video … it‘s always a joy to see you working … I like the way you find solutions for the process and the result is outstanding. Thx for sharing
Always amazed at the carefulness and attention to detail you put in a project. Awesome video once again!
So good to have you back mate! Was super happy to see the jer notification
I get the same joyous feeling watching you(r videos) as I get watching Lionel Messi playing soccer!
For those not in the knowing; one of the best players ever to walk the pitch.
Awesome work.
As far as butt welding sheet metal - you want to stack tacks. Tack every 2", then come back and put a tack on each tack. That will move your heat around and minimize distortion. Also prevents blowing holes in the the metal. Other than that, awesome work buddy. Leagues ahead of me.
Ron Covell just posted a video the other day butt welding strips of metal (copper) and finishing them to the point that the welds all but disappear.
Another build that is outstandingly detailed, well thought out, and an excellent example of fine craftsmanship! Great job, Jeremy!
I like your thinking on the wiggly bits, and love when what looks like decoration is actually functional industrial design.
I’ve missed you on UA-cam. It’s great to see you back. I hope to see more of your work as time goes by. Thanks for some interesting, educational videos.
Awesome to see you back Jer, and also awesome to see some build videos being successful on UA-cam. The algorithm really beats them down these days. Keep up the awesome work, you're quickly turning into the next Matthias.
Glad to see you posting videos again. Welcome back
GLAD TO SEE YOU BACK TO BUILDING THINGS. I'V ALWAYS ENJOYED SEEING WHAT YOU COME UP WITH NEXT. KEEP IT UP.
Dude, thanks for showing us your process. Have a nice day.
Your cyclone and blower look like they will last forever and work extremely well. They far outclass the ones I made.
You can take as much time as you like and I will always be happy to see a new video from you. This was not a long wait.
I am in my 50's and I have been fabricating things since the late 1970's ... your skills and methods are impressive!!
So nice to see someone with natural feeling for geometry at work. Making smart use of stuff available.
great use of maths and geometry designing your parts. you're smart in finding solutions
Yes, the fine kreg screws are excellent for Not splitting. Great work Jer, as usual. Please send rain !!
Nice job Jeremy glad your back in the shop again.
You seem a lot happier now. I like your new content even more then I liked the old.
DAMN this UA-cam algorithm! I didn't see that you're back! We missed you
I'm just 13 mins in, and don't really do any work like this, but it's really impressive how resourceful and creative you are with repurposing shop items. Using the drill press stand as a mandrel, or the drill bit as a router guide, testing the screws in the plywood...
It's not so much about the specific tips, or how to build this exact item, but the philosophy of being adaptable in completing a task.
Fun to watch.
I’ll say it again. Totally amazed with your problem solving/solutions to your build process. Truly impressive!
A nice little project but sometimes what I find most interesting is the simple and effective way you develop fabrication methods to accomplish the build, Bravo.
Never cease to be impressed by your sound thought process. Amazing engineering and inventor mix.
I’d be curious by a financial breakdown of your final assembly.
Nice work, as usual. I think it's cool you're using only clear finishes for both the wood and the steel.
My first job in Brazil was to make these snail exhaust fans and air recirculators for gas ovens for curing powder paint.
So beautifully designed and executed. that thing’s a piece of art
You are one of the best builders on UA-cam IMO....i love when you post videos
I really love that you are back posting more regularly, I have been watching for years and still drop everything when I see a new video from you! Thanks you for making such great videos
Nice job. That impeller should last a lifetime.
i really enjoyed watching your thinking process during this project. You're a wonderfully talented and kind man. Thank you!
Rocket science :-) Amazing !!! Everything looks easy ... but it's not. The detail is not (never) an option with you !!! Bravo !!!
So glad to see you back - great build as always.
Your skill level and attention to detail is phenomenal. I’m looking forward to seeing the fun part when you put it all together.
glad your back been missing ya
Nicely done, Jer. Glad you're back!
Wow, that Leeson motor is a beast.
Each little section is a project of perfection in itself - and then you put them all together into a serious tool! Very impressive work!
Normal household Silicone sealer is a bit too soft to stand up to basically being "Sandblasted" for very long but, on the flip side I am sure the same joints would eventually get packed with saw dust anyway so it only has to last long enough for that to happen. For future (re)builds I would recommend some good quality automotive seam sealer like "SEM 29372 Gray Seam Sealer". The nice bonus part about the SEM tubes is that the nozzles screw on, which makes unclogging them or even replacing them entirely so much easier. The downside to SEM sealant is that its too good at being impermeable so it takes some specialized paint to get it to stick to it.
Love it. The way you made that cover, making the little wavy bits individually and then gluing them to the disc, was class.
Great build, really enjoyed it.
I know you are always when you make things really pretty and the best quality and perfect work, that I would like your job
You're on another level, that's for sure. Kudos from Brazil.
Good to see you back. This is a great build. Be well
Clint
Great to see more videos in my feed. Glad your doing well.
A tip, when butwelding sheet metal, when you can. Support the back with copper. No melt through, traps the gas, and weld won't stick.
As usual magnificent engineering and execution
I really appreciate all the jigs and fixtures you use. Very clever.
I'm a week late, but I'm so excited to see another video by you! ♥
Jer - Its good to see you making videos again. I hope all is well in your world and, as always, your work is perfection!
Beautiful design. Glad to see you creating again. For welding thin metal try series of spot welds, cooling with shop air between passes, instead of continuous bead. Very thin gap will allow good penetration. Loved the rabbet detail so sheet metal would be flush and help alignment.
You are an absolute genius!!!! Love your content! Glad you are back
I love how everyone building something looks at the numbers on their test meters and says something along the lines of "it's using a bit more "
It’s also very possible that it won’t be fine haha. Cyclones create a LOT of resistance, so I think it’ll be enough to pull the amps down from 24 to 20, but if not, I’ll grind a bit off the ends of the blades.
Jeremy, it's always a joy following you along doing the right things the right way. Keep your head up buddy, looking forward to seeing it all come together. I also noted your awesome beltgrinder design was copied a fricking lot, take that as a compliment ;)
Hi Jeremy, so good to see you back, awesome to see those skills of yours again 🙂
Glad to see you 'back on the horse' and working on projects again. All the best from Australia, looking forward to the rest of this project.
As with part 1, you are a gifted maker. Love watching what you accomplish! Thanks for sharing with us all. Great stuff!
I love the aesthetics, Jer! Great to see you back creating, and sharing it with us. Hope you're keeping well.
Great work Jer. Nice to see you and your videos. You are a brilliant person.
Excellent video. You've leveled up since coming back!
Impressive jig wizardry, looks like you've built something very high quality.
I love your material usage measures. I really need to start thinking like that. The “wiggly bits” make it look really cool. Definitely was worth it.
Jer, it's really coming together! Heavy metal is just all right with me! 👍👍
Jer, incredible engineering as always. I love you narrating the details. Explanations. Fantastic.
Has to be one of the best builds I've ever seen, well done!
Once again you impress us regular thinking guys!
Daaaaang you’ve been working out! looking good buddy!!
This is such a clean build. Very well done. 👏 I love the look of the wiggly sections. Form from function at its finest!
Congratulation on the project. Your videos are more than intretedment, they are a source of inspiration. Thanks.
Amazing build quality! So glad to have you back making content.
Im working on building my own dust collector, this is exactly what I need! Thank you!
I love watching your jigs and setup work. The real secret sauce.
Can't wait to see the whole thing assembled.
Good to see you back
So pleased seeing you back making great projects.. I’ve struggled MH wise since a kid aged 14 I was abused by 9 elders, Im 61 now and still struggle with many issues like PTSD confidence and self dislike, but you can’t change history so i find it beneficial too help others etc which in turn helps me feel a little better about myself, i make projects and give the profits away to charities.. I carry my backpack everywhere with a road map inside of where i’ve been/visited, the scars both physical and mental are the routes on that map, but, these routes are where i’ve once been and not where i’m determined to be heading now..
Your a talented lad one inspiring others so please keep it up for the good of us all and that includes you too..
NOODLES….
I like all of your little jigs and the different techniques you use to make them. Oh and the blower is awesome.
Awesome work young man! Cheers, William
Fantastic build dude. A really professional look about it. I am so glad to see you back on here mate it was so long since you made a video prior to these. Great video buddy 😉👍🏻👍🏻
I am just sorry I cannot give two likes to this video! Excellent work!
Nice to see you Back Jer. Keep the Videos coming and ill keep watching.. you are Fascinating sir!!
Nice work. I like your idea for the wiggly bits.
I'm always amazed at how smart you are and how interesting you're able to make your videos. Thanks,
Glad to see you back. 👍. Your videos always provide inspiration and demonstrate problem solving I can apply on other projects even if I'm not building the same things. Thanks for all you do
A work of art, Jer, very good looking
Dang, Jer! Nice build! That thing is bullet proof for sure! Haven't watched part one, so that I will be doing. Again, nice work, as always!
Dang, nice belt grinder. Well done Jer, as always.
Thank you. Your efforts are a pleasure to watch
Pure genius.
Thanks for letting us into your mind.
Beautiful work. I briefly considered building my own dust collector in a manner similar to what you're doing - but seeing the level of detail, attention and skill you've put in to this build, I would not have been able to replicate your success.
Thanks! Yeah I wouldn’t recommend it. I drastically underestimated the amount of work this would be.
I've always loved your narration of reasoning through it. Well done!
@Jer Schmidt ? Is the above message also you?
@Jer Schmidt if you're not on telegram then someone is impersonating you and telling people they won to drive them to telegram. Same exact pic and name but on telegram. There was a post above, bow deleted that seemed counterfeit. I have a screenshot if you need it.
Love your video style, length, level of detail. I'm so pleased you're back posting, even if it's less frequently
Just the design itself is jut… the look of it is amazing, great job, you are a genius brother, really great video thanks,
Found you by accident, you are very good, thanks for sharing these nice techniques, I've learned a lot!
This is the most impressive and best built dust collector blower what I have ever seen in youtube. This must pull A LOT of air. I can't wait to see more progress of this system 👌
Fantastic build Jeremy! Your attention to detail and execution is amazing! Looking forward to Part 3 of this build. Be well..... 👍👍