This was absolutely what was wrong with my yahmaha golfcart! Great video! Saved me a ton of money on parts I didn't need. The whole job took me less than a few hours as amature. Thanks and keep up the videos.
I was convinced my issue was the solenoid since it was clicking randomly but I canceled my order for a new one after watching this video. The roll test makes complete sense. My motor was a complete mess. The brushes were stuck and took a lot of work to get them to move freely again. The commutator bars were scorched so badly I had to go to 120 grit and they never cleaned up really well. I figured at this point I can't really mess it up worse than it is. It will either run or I buy a new motor. It runs like a champ now. I couldn't be happier. Thank you so much for this video!!!
Had two brushes that were stuck open or not making contact. Cleaned everything up really well and she’s running smooth now. I greatly appreciate you making this video. Have a blessed weekend.
Thank you so much for making this! My 2017 Yamaha Drive2 wouldn't go unless I got it started with a push. Then it would die 30 seconds later. Sure enough all but 1 brush was stuck. Followed your instructions here and it worked great! Even got some new brushes ordered so I'll get to do it all again :) Really appreciate you taking the time to post this!
Glad I ran across your video. I’ve got a 2013 drive that was occasionally jerking at low speed, now it has gotten more erratic and shudders when pulling out or on a hill. Top speed is still smooth. I’m going to pull the motor this week and take a look. - basically stock cart with a 440 navitas controller.
Thank you sir for the video. Been troubleshooting for a few months with no luck. This was exactly the problem. Owner of a Yamaha G29. Sanded down the Armature. Replaced worn and stuck brushes with new brush assembly. Running like new, and no surge. Much appreciated and, thanks again!
Great to hear that Michael I’m pleased it helped. Thanks for watching, if you have any other dramas contact me through Fb ( Backshed ) or Instagram Backshedmick
Many thanks for this video, helped me plenty ! 2 brushes stuck and a burned commutator, new brushes, also changed bearing which had some play. now like new.
I enjoyed your video, and I have just completed the same job on mine. It's a 2012 G29 48V with many of the symptoms you describe in this video. Some include surging (bystander's leg breaking type) speed in reverse, no alarm when you roll it in drive mode, and odd behavior where it would sometimes drive normally and then not at all. It's now and in the not at all phase except for reverse out of the garage. When you switch back to forward it dies. Push it back and let it sit a while in tow, and it will usually work in reverse briefly. I pulled the motor today and followed your instructions on cleaning the armature as well as the internal assembly. Brushes and springs are fine and remarkably clean. Even so, I was encouraged by a similar slightly fouled armature that I cleaned as you described in the video. I put it all back together and my problem is unresolved. Frustrating, but I'm pleased to have ruled out the issue you propose in the video. One symptom you did not list that I had for a while was persistent involuntarily solenoid clicking as though engaging the drive mode (on flat ground for no particular reason). Fair bit of corrosion on the wires on the battery terminals that I have now cleaned up. Please offer any suggestions if you have them. Much appreciated.
Exactly the video I was searching for! My '13 just started having theses symptoms: Stutter/shudder with a jerk taking off, very difficult to pull inclines, a barely audible roar that you feel as much as hear and a general weakness compared to before it started. I suspected that it was the brushes and this video gives great procedures. Ordering new brushes now in case, unlike yours, they're worn away.
Rodney if it’s a Club car precedent or Club car DS I’d also check battery voltage under mild load because low voltage can make those particular carts shudder also.
@@backshed5295 Thanks. But it is like yours. Specifically, it is a 2013 yamaha g29 48V. It has 6 8v continental batteries dated J9, which should be October 2019. I've had it since around Oct/Nov 2020 and have watered the batteries a couple of times. I charge it after every use.
@@backshed5295 I just finished. My old brushes were 1/4 to 1/3 as long as the new ones and sticking. There was an impressive amount of carbon dust in the motor! What a mess. My armature was pretty rough. It cleaned up ok. I'm not sure how long it will last but it's running like new now. Thanks for the video, it helped a great deal.
Thank you very much. I have a 2010 Fairplay and it does exactly what you described. Going to clean the motor and I’ll update on it later. Thanks for the video.
So, the motor was just like imagined. Dirty and commutator was just like yours. Cleaned it up and put it back together and it’s still doing the same thing. Is there anything else i could check?
Stuck brushes and if the armature is too worn so that the ribs are gone then that’s new armature time. Can’t really say if I don’t know what it was doing / what the problem was originally. First place to start is battery voltage under load and cables
So I did the push test. And it does give some resistance. It feels the same when the cart is off and on. The original symptoms were exactly as you described in the video.
This guy is very knowledgeable ,very good Communication skills and extremely professional. Even though he had other family members helping, he stayed on task therefore showcasing master class Professionalism. Unlike the previous video from another shop which I attempted to view , the one with the 2 year daughter in the middle of every video frame .
Hey there thanks for the content… I do have a 2006 g22 which stopped working… The motor controller clicks when you press the go pedal… Replaced the solenoid and dart and stop switch no luck… What do you think is at fault? Batteries are great and All the wires seems fine… I appreciate your help
If you put the cart in RUN and push it does it pose any resistance? Or just roll easy? If no resistance it’s definitely brushes in the motor. If your unsure what I mean do watch again because the “push “ diagnosis is in the video. No resistance means nope poor brush to armature contact.
Just bought a 2016 g29. Guy said it just needed batteries.....it has 2015 batteries. They were very dead. One was under a volt. Surprisingly they charged up ok after i manually charged them. Resting voltage at 49.9. Not great but enough to test i believe. Well it wouldnt move when i tested it initially. Finally got it to move but had to press pedal half way down and it surged forward and was very jerky. Battery Voltage dropped to 44v when it was moving. Same symptoms you describe. Anti rollaway not working.. I do get reverse buzzer which seems to be a good sign controller is ok. Solenoid is clicking when changing from tow to run. No click when i press pedal or turn key though. Looks like original controller was replaced with a ge 300amp at some point. Im going to pull motor and see. Also i get a weird pulsing high pitch low volume noise from the motor and when i press the pedal it stays constant. That's when its not moving. I have a 2013 g29 i just bought also but didnt know about the rear end with internal wet brakes they put in them so ill probably keep the 2016 with dana style rear end if i can get it running since body is in much better shape and brakes arent internal. Which years do you prefer in the g29? Thanks for the video
Mate there’s a lot going on there . How about message me on Fb ( backshed) with your number and we will work through both carts . I prefer the wet brake 2013s really but flick me a message.
Just watched this video. Very good. Hope you can help me with my problem Just put new brushes in my 2004 club car problem is it goes backwards when It should be forwards and visa versa. Can the brushes be put in the wrong way?? Got me stumped.
Like it says in the video , push the cart with it switched on . No resistance then its the motor . Tap the motor repeatedly with a rubber hammer and try again .
Hello. I have a 2010 G29 that for about a month was running normal (after full charging) for about 30 seconds then slows down a lot. Now sometimes it will only move a few feet then quit. I've done surface and load tests on batteries and they are good. It's never jerked or surged. Your thoughts?
The symptoms tell me batteries but you’ve load tested you say , they were load tested as a pack altogether? 48v tester? Or individual with a carbon pile load tester?
Hi Great work, I need some help my G29 runs then the motor makes a noise, and then it cuts out, you have to operate the run switch off & on then it goes again and it goes but when you get a load on and ask it to work harder it makes the same noise and cuts out again, change the brushes on the motor but it still does the same thing, Help
I have a 2018 that was running one day and not the next. If you turn the reversing switch to reverse it will not sound the tone. I have 48.8 volts on the batteries the cart just won’t run any suggestions.
First thing I’d do is check it’s charging properly as 48.8 is very low for resting charged volts . It should be 50.2-50.6ish charged at rest. 1 check water 2 get multi meter and check volts 3 plug charger in and switch on , make sure all light on the charger that should be on are in fact on. Delta charger ?? 4 check with multi meter that battery volts are in fact rising . You can contact me through Fb Backshed or Instagram backshedmick if you like after you have done those steps.🍺🍺👍
Just to be sure are you saying that The Surge means it's going from zero to full speed as soon as I touch the accelerated pedal? I can barely touch it and the cart is running full speed. Does the motor need to be taken apart and clean or is there another problem?
I’ve seen a lot of symptoms Low speed surge Full speed surge Intermittent running then not at all etc etc All of these issue can be traced back to this 1 fix as it’s poor contact of the brushes on the armature and full of carbon dust. Yep pull it apart The video is detailed enough to do it yourself or get someone more experienced to watch it the follow the steps 👍
@@backshed5295 thanks a lot for the information. I got enough experience to do it myself. It's the golf cart at the place where I work so I just didn't want to waste time doing something I didn't need to.
So, the motor unbolts from the brake assembly, the bolt on top & the 2 from underneath, & it'll just separate from that? My sticker says 2008, model YDRE & serial at the bottom right says, JW2-F4236-20
Yes mate 3 x 10mm bolts to undo the motor then side it horizontally off the diff spline. ( note, it will be heavy) Of coarse don’t forget the wiring needs to be undone first as seen in the video. Yeah a 2008 is the same motor as seen here . You can contact me through FB Backshed or Instagram backshedmick if you need a chat or help Joe
@@backshed5295 ok great thanks. Yes all the wiring will be disconnected. The video is great, I guess I just couldn't see the unit on the lefthand side in the video. So when I pulled the cover off I was like oh no, what is this. But I totally get it now. Thank you
My cart shudders as it accelerates, but it's OK once up to speed. Started in forward more than reverse, but now it's both. I've got new batteries, all connections are great. While checking voltage out, the controller only gives out 30v max at top speed on the flat, is that OK? I'll check for rollaway resistance tomorrow
@@matthewflynn3010 no mate batteries are fine .Watch the video in full mate I think you have skipped a lot. People go straight to batteries when it not always the case. If the is no continuity inside the motor due to carbon dust or stuck brushes it wouldn’t matter if you had new batteries it still won’t operate correctly. 🍺👍
Have a 2017 Yamaha Drive 2 (DR2E17) was working fine a day or two ago but started to stutter and needed a push to get going but now wont go at all. Solenoid clicks when you put it into Run/key on/fwd but pushing the pedal does nothing. Do you think this could still be related to the brushes/motor armature? Ordered a new solenoid and speed sensor any way as they looked old/dirty/possible malfunction.
If solenoid is clicking it’s working fine . Check battery as a precaution but yes I think this is your issue. Especially because you said push it to get it going . When brushes are the issue they loose contact , pushing it would have moved they to gain contact and away it went . Now it’s deteriorated and won’t move . This is your fix my friend. 🍺👍
@@backshed5295 Thanks! Yeah we tested the batteries and they are new with over 50 volts fully charged. Solenoid was tested too but not sure if we were doing it properly. It does click but its very dirty and someone suggested it may be stuck open since it shouldn't be delivering voltage to the controller without the pedal being pressed? Either way we are going to replace the solenoid, speed sensor and if it still wont run at all pull the motor off and do exactly this. Appreciate the response!
@@backshed5295 You were absolutely right! This video is awesome and will recommend it to anyone with a Yamaha DC motor cart having issues. We pulled the motor and it was filthy and the brushes were not only stuck but worn down quite a bit. The armature will need to be milled but luckily the Place where we got the cart agreed they sold a bad motor and gave us a replacement in exchange. The cart is super fast and very smooth once again. Thanks!
Hi mate, looking at buying a Yamaha DR2E18 golf cart, that is not running it has water damage what would you suggest I will need to fix it or is not worth it ? Thank you.
The electric motor would need to be removed and disassembled for cleaning but would probably come up fine . The batteries and charger if submerged would be the drama.
Great video , and good detail . Could this explain why my cart sometimes works and sometimes don't ? It does stutter or surge at times , and when it won't go , I can hold the pedal to the floor and keep it there , and eventually it will take off like a bat out of hell . Thanks
Yep it’s very likely Is it a Yamaha ? If it is than I’d say 99% sure Club cars can have a few other contributing issues but I’d still say head down this path first
@@backshed5295 Thanks , It's a club . Has new bats and cables , we live on a dirt road and I have had it stuck in mud , don't know if that would get in the motor or not. It worked perfectly when I put bats in , then my niece stole it one night and when it was TOWED home it was bent and twisted to the point that I had to remove the body and heat the frame to straighten , i the rear seat assembly was smashed beyond recognition. That's when the trouble started.
Club cars shudder when they have low voltage to the motor. Get a multi meter and check total pack voltage and then individual battery voltage. Then nose the cart up agains something solid ( a shed wall etc ) put the multi meter back on the batteries an very very generally ( as it’s going to want to go forward) start to depress the throttle pedal and see if the voltage dips sharply . That is technically checking voltage under load without a load tester. I’ll bet you have 1 or more that dip in voltage.
If all 3 are out mate nothing is holding it except the shear weight of it . It won’t just slide off mate it weighs part 15kg They’re awkward to remove but just lift and slide sideways
It may still be this problem It just means that a brush is contacting enough to activate the anti roll buzzer but not enough contact from all brushes to run.
I have a 2010 g29 and when I did the roll test it didn’t beep but sounded like the solenoid clicked once just by pushing it not hitting the pedal my cart does not run at all just with key on and in run mode when I hit the gas I get one click like the solenoid opens then a sec later closes ?
I did the load test and tested good if I did the 12v jump test and the motor spun do you think I would still need to perform this procedure I get a reverse buzzer but does that same one click has a one sec delay and then another click
Yes . Try try the push test with everything switched on again Then gently tap the motor with a hammer , the theory is it may dislodge or shift a brush or carbon build-up and see if the push test changes or it runs . If it runs or the resistance of the push test changes you know it’s time to pull the motor.
@@backshed5295 did the cleaning and sprayed it out did just like the video nothing seemed to be sticking as of the brushes but clean it all and put it back together and I’m still getting the same thing
This was absolutely what was wrong with my yahmaha golfcart! Great video! Saved me a ton of money on parts I didn't need. The whole job took me less than a few hours as amature. Thanks and keep up the videos.
Cheers mate🍺👍
I was convinced my issue was the solenoid since it was clicking randomly but I canceled my order for a new one after watching this video. The roll test makes complete sense. My motor was a complete mess. The brushes were stuck and took a lot of work to get them to move freely again. The commutator bars were scorched so badly I had to go to 120 grit and they never cleaned up really well. I figured at this point I can't really mess it up worse than it is. It will either run or I buy a new motor. It runs like a champ now. I couldn't be happier. Thank you so much for this video!!!
I’m pleased it helped Dwayne
🍺👍
Had two brushes that were stuck open or not making contact. Cleaned everything up really well and she’s running smooth now. I greatly appreciate you making this video. Have a blessed weekend.
Cheers mate
Pleased it helped
🍺🍺👍
Thank you so much for making this! My 2017 Yamaha Drive2 wouldn't go unless I got it started with a push. Then it would die 30 seconds later. Sure enough all but 1 brush was stuck. Followed your instructions here and it worked great! Even got some new brushes ordered so I'll get to do it all again :) Really appreciate you taking the time to post this!
No drama Brad
Glad it helped mate
🍺🍺👍
Glad I ran across your video. I’ve got a 2013 drive that was occasionally jerking at low speed, now it has gotten more erratic and shudders when pulling out or on a hill. Top speed is still smooth. I’m going to pull the motor this week and take a look.
- basically stock cart with a 440 navitas controller.
Thank you! Saved me time, money and fixed my golf cart!
Thank you sir for the video. Been troubleshooting for a few months with no luck. This was exactly the problem. Owner of a Yamaha G29. Sanded down the Armature. Replaced worn and stuck brushes with new brush assembly. Running like new, and no surge. Much appreciated and, thanks again!
No problem at all Raymond I’m please it helped.
🍺👍
Really helpful advice thank you for sharing. Your a great example of a wonderful person
This video saved me an untold amount of money. Thank you for sharing this video!
Great to hear that Michael I’m pleased it helped.
Thanks for watching, if you have any other dramas contact me through Fb ( Backshed ) or Instagram Backshedmick
Did exactly this and it worked awesome i replaced the brushes and speed sensor while it was out.
Many thanks for this video, helped me plenty ! 2 brushes stuck and a burned commutator, new brushes, also changed bearing which had some play. now like new.
Cheers mate I’m glad it helped
🍺👍
I enjoyed your video, and I have just completed the same job on mine. It's a 2012 G29 48V with many of the symptoms you describe in this video. Some include surging (bystander's leg breaking type) speed in reverse, no alarm when you roll it in drive mode, and odd behavior where it would sometimes drive normally and then not at all. It's now and in the not at all phase except for reverse out of the garage. When you switch back to forward it dies. Push it back and let it sit a while in tow, and it will usually work in reverse briefly.
I pulled the motor today and followed your instructions on cleaning the armature as well as the internal assembly. Brushes and springs are fine and remarkably clean. Even so, I was encouraged by a similar slightly fouled armature that I cleaned as you described in the video. I put it all back together and my problem is unresolved. Frustrating, but I'm pleased to have ruled out the issue you propose in the video. One symptom you did not list that I had for a while was persistent involuntarily solenoid clicking as though engaging the drive mode (on flat ground for no particular reason). Fair bit of corrosion on the wires on the battery terminals that I have now cleaned up. Please offer any suggestions if you have them. Much appreciated.
Load test your batteries.
@@backshed5295 You are correct. The batteries are toast. They shouldn't be, but they are. Thanks again
Thanks for the info mine is doing the same thing as yours did I really hope this fix's mine
Exactly the video I was searching for! My '13 just started having theses symptoms: Stutter/shudder with a jerk taking off, very difficult to pull inclines, a barely audible roar that you feel as much as hear and a general weakness compared to before it started. I suspected that it was the brushes and this video gives great procedures. Ordering new brushes now in case, unlike yours, they're worn away.
Rodney if it’s a Club car precedent or Club car DS I’d also check battery voltage under mild load because low voltage can make those particular carts shudder also.
@@backshed5295 Thanks. But it is like yours. Specifically, it is a 2013 yamaha g29 48V. It has 6 8v continental batteries dated J9, which should be October 2019. I've had it since around Oct/Nov 2020 and have watered the batteries a couple of times. I charge it after every use.
@@backshed5295 I just finished. My old brushes were 1/4 to 1/3 as long as the new ones and sticking. There was an impressive amount of carbon dust in the motor! What a mess. My armature was pretty rough. It cleaned up ok. I'm not sure how long it will last but it's running like new now. Thanks for the video, it helped a great deal.
Thanks greatly appreciate it saved me the money and did it myself
Thank you have a cart that I did every thing to, wont run thanks for the info great help
Not a drama
Thank you very much. I have a 2010 Fairplay and it does exactly what you described. Going to clean the motor and I’ll update on it later. Thanks for the video.
No drama mate
👍🍺
So, the motor was just like imagined. Dirty and commutator was just like yours. Cleaned it up and put it back together and it’s still doing the same thing. Is there anything else i could check?
Stuck brushes and if the armature is too worn so that the ribs are gone then that’s new armature time.
Can’t really say if I don’t know what it was doing / what the problem was originally. First place to start is battery voltage under load and cables
So I did the push test. And it does give some resistance. It feels the same when the cart is off and on.
The original symptoms were exactly as you described in the video.
Yep so start with a battery load test and check your cables for corrosion and connection. You may be jumping too far ahead of the actual problem
Excellent info. Thanks!
Thankyou I hope it was helpful
Thanks much. Kind of you to share
This guy is very knowledgeable ,very good
Communication skills
and extremely professional.
Even though he had other
family members helping, he stayed on task therefore
showcasing master class
Professionalism.
Unlike the previous video from another shop which I attempted to view , the one
with the 2 year daughter in
the middle of every video frame .
🍺👍
Great video! Should the inspection hole to look at rhe motor brush be kept open or closed off with tape?
🍺👍
Hey there thanks for the content… I do have a 2006 g22 which stopped working… The motor controller clicks when you press the go pedal… Replaced the solenoid and dart and stop switch no luck… What do you think is at fault? Batteries are great and All the wires seems fine… I appreciate your help
If you put the cart in RUN and push it does it pose any resistance? Or just roll easy? If no resistance it’s definitely brushes in the motor. If your unsure what I mean do watch again because the “push “ diagnosis is in the video. No resistance means nope poor brush to armature contact.
You rock your video straight forward and is exactly my fix 2013 G29!
What specific cleaning spray was you using? Assuming it needs to be non conducting? Awesome video thanks!
Just brake cleaner or Contact cleaner mate
👍
Just bought a 2016 g29. Guy said it just needed batteries.....it has 2015 batteries. They were very dead. One was under a volt. Surprisingly they charged up ok after i manually charged them. Resting voltage at 49.9. Not great but enough to test i believe. Well it wouldnt move when i tested it initially. Finally got it to move but had to press pedal half way down and it surged forward and was very jerky. Battery Voltage dropped to 44v when it was moving. Same symptoms you describe. Anti rollaway not working.. I do get reverse buzzer which seems to be a good sign controller is ok. Solenoid is clicking when changing from tow to run. No click when i press pedal or turn key though. Looks like original controller was replaced with a ge 300amp at some point. Im going to pull motor and see. Also i get a weird pulsing high pitch low volume noise from the motor and when i press the pedal it stays constant. That's when its not moving. I have a 2013 g29 i just bought also but didnt know about the rear end with internal wet brakes they put in them so ill probably keep the 2016 with dana style rear end if i can get it running since body is in much better shape and brakes arent internal. Which years do you prefer in the g29? Thanks for the video
Mate there’s a lot going on there .
How about message me on Fb ( backshed) with your number and we will work through both carts . I prefer the wet brake 2013s really but flick me a message.
Just watched this video. Very good.
Hope you can help me with my problem
Just put new brushes in my 2004 club car problem is it goes backwards when It should be forwards and visa versa.
Can the brushes be put in the wrong way?? Got me stumped.
No but your wiring to the motor can be
Is there a way to bench test the motor? My solenoid clicks but the cart won’t move. I want to rule out the motor before I buy a new controller.
Like it says in the video , push the cart with it switched on . No resistance then its the motor . Tap the motor repeatedly with a rubber hammer and try again .
Hello.
I have a 2010 G29 that for about a month was running normal (after full charging) for about 30 seconds then slows down a lot. Now sometimes it will only move a few feet then quit. I've done surface and load tests on batteries and they are good. It's never jerked or surged. Your thoughts?
The symptoms tell me batteries but you’ve load tested you say , they were load tested as a pack altogether? 48v tester? Or individual with a carbon pile load tester?
Hi Great work, I need some help my G29 runs then the motor makes a noise, and then it cuts out, you have to operate the run switch off & on then it goes again and it goes but when you get a load on and ask it to work harder it makes the same noise and cuts out again, change the brushes on the motor but it still does the same thing, Help
Load test your batteries mate , sounds like low voltage shut off.
If batteries are new or test fine then its how the power is delivered ( cables!)
I have a 2018 that was running one day and not the next. If you turn the reversing switch to reverse it will not sound the tone. I have 48.8 volts on the batteries the cart just won’t run any suggestions.
First thing I’d do is check it’s charging properly as 48.8 is very low for resting charged volts . It should be 50.2-50.6ish charged at rest.
1 check water
2 get multi meter and check volts
3 plug charger in and switch on , make sure all light on the charger that should be on are in fact on. Delta charger ??
4 check with multi meter that battery volts are in fact rising .
You can contact me through Fb Backshed or Instagram backshedmick if you like after you have done those steps.🍺🍺👍
Cheers mate
Just to be sure are you saying that The Surge means it's going from zero to full speed as soon as I touch the accelerated pedal? I can barely touch it and the cart is running full speed. Does the motor need to be taken apart and clean or is there another problem?
I’ve seen a lot of symptoms
Low speed surge
Full speed surge
Intermittent running then not at all etc etc
All of these issue can be traced back to this 1 fix as it’s poor contact of the brushes on the armature and full of carbon dust.
Yep pull it apart
The video is detailed enough to do it yourself or get someone more experienced to watch it the follow the steps
👍
@@backshed5295 thanks a lot for the information. I got enough experience to do it myself. It's the golf cart at the place where I work so I just didn't want to waste time doing something I didn't need to.
So, the motor unbolts from the brake assembly, the bolt on top & the 2 from underneath, & it'll just separate from that? My sticker says 2008, model YDRE & serial at the bottom right says, JW2-F4236-20
Yes mate
3 x 10mm bolts to undo the motor then side it horizontally off the diff spline. ( note, it will be heavy)
Of coarse don’t forget the wiring needs to be undone first as seen in the video.
Yeah a 2008 is the same motor as seen here .
You can contact me through FB Backshed or Instagram backshedmick if you need a chat or help Joe
@@backshed5295 ok great thanks. Yes all the wiring will be disconnected. The video is great, I guess I just couldn't see the unit on the lefthand side in the video. So when I pulled the cover off I was like oh no, what is this. But I totally get it now. Thank you
Wondering if you can Look at some pictures of my columbia Par Car gas powered golf cart and give me some advise on how to put it back together
Sure
Backshed on Facebook
Backshedmick on Instagram
Ca n I send you a picture of cart
@@billlanglois37 yeah sure
My cart shudders as it accelerates, but it's OK once up to speed. Started in forward more than reverse, but now it's both. I've got new batteries, all connections are great. While checking voltage out, the controller only gives out 30v max at top speed on the flat, is that OK? I'll check for rollaway resistance tomorrow
I’ll take a wild guess and say it’s a club car ! They shudder badly when low voltage is applied to the motor.
@@backshed5295 Correct! I decided the motor needed a clean-out (no idea how old it was). 2 seized brushes and a badly scored commutator....
@@sparkiepaul1 Mine is doing the same. What was the verdict in the end ?
did the motor need a clean up or was it the batteries low ?
@@backshed5295 does this mean the batteries are going ?
@@matthewflynn3010 no mate batteries are fine .Watch the video in full mate I think you have skipped a lot. People go straight to batteries when it not always the case. If the is no continuity inside the motor due to carbon dust or stuck brushes it wouldn’t matter if you had new batteries it still won’t operate correctly.
🍺👍
Have a 2017 Yamaha Drive 2 (DR2E17) was working fine a day or two ago but started to stutter and needed a push to get going but now wont go at all. Solenoid clicks when you put it into Run/key on/fwd but pushing the pedal does nothing. Do you think this could still be related to the brushes/motor armature? Ordered a new solenoid and speed sensor any way as they looked old/dirty/possible malfunction.
If solenoid is clicking it’s working fine . Check battery as a precaution but yes I think this is your issue.
Especially because you said push it to get it going . When brushes are the issue they loose contact , pushing it would have moved they to gain contact and away it went . Now it’s deteriorated and won’t move .
This is your fix my friend. 🍺👍
@@backshed5295 Thanks! Yeah we tested the batteries and they are new with over 50 volts fully charged. Solenoid was tested too but not sure if we were doing it properly. It does click but its very dirty and someone suggested it may be stuck open since it shouldn't be delivering voltage to the controller without the pedal being pressed? Either way we are going to replace the solenoid, speed sensor and if it still wont run at all pull the motor off and do exactly this. Appreciate the response!
Save your money on sensor and solenoid just pull the motor mate it won’t be the other two items
@@backshed5295 You were absolutely right! This video is awesome and will recommend it to anyone with a Yamaha DC motor cart having issues. We pulled the motor and it was filthy and the brushes were not only stuck but worn down quite a bit. The armature will need to be milled but luckily the Place where we got the cart agreed they sold a bad motor and gave us a replacement in exchange. The cart is super fast and very smooth once again. Thanks!
Hi mate, looking at buying a Yamaha DR2E18 golf cart, that is not running it has water damage what would you suggest I will need to fix it or is not worth it ? Thank you.
When you say water damage you meen it’s been submerged? Is the Drive 2 electric or petrol?
@@backshed5295 They are electric and it looks like they’ve been in the recent floods in Sydney
The electric motor would need to be removed and disassembled for cleaning but would probably come up fine . The batteries and charger if submerged would be the drama.
@@backshed5295 Can the batteries and charger just be replaced?
Yeah absolutely but it’s the cost of doing so. Up to $2k in batteries alone
Great video , and good detail . Could this explain why my cart sometimes works and sometimes don't ? It does stutter or surge at times , and when it won't go , I can hold the pedal to the floor and keep it there , and eventually it will take off like a bat out of hell . Thanks
Yep it’s very likely
Is it a Yamaha ? If it is than I’d say 99% sure
Club cars can have a few other contributing issues but I’d still say head down this path first
@@backshed5295 Thanks , It's a club . Has new bats and cables , we live on a dirt road and I have had it stuck in mud , don't know if that would get in the motor or not. It worked perfectly when I put bats in , then my niece stole it one night and when it was TOWED home it was bent and twisted to the point that I had to remove the body and heat the frame to straighten , i the rear seat assembly was smashed beyond recognition. That's when the trouble started.
Oh !
If it has new batteries then Im confident that this motor repair will be the drama
Any suggestions for a carryall 300 that starts in maintenance mode and not in operate mode?
I’d be looking for a micro switch on the rear of the gear ( forward and reverse) selector
when you say surge, would you also consider it a "shuddering" sensation?
Not in a Yamaha , Is it a club car you have?
Club cars shudder when they have low voltage to the motor. Get a multi meter and check total pack voltage and then individual battery voltage. Then nose the cart up agains something solid ( a shed wall etc ) put the multi meter back on the batteries an very very generally ( as it’s going to want to go forward) start to depress the throttle pedal and see if the voltage dips sharply . That is technically checking voltage under load without a load tester. I’ll bet you have 1 or more that dip in voltage.
Could these similar symptoms be from faulty speed sensor?
Not generally mate, a speed sensor is pretty easy to replace to test it but rarely fail
Got to the part where the motor is supposed to come out (mounting bolts removed) but it won't budget. Any thoughts?
What type of cart ? Yamaha?
How many bolts have you removed
@@backshed5295 Yamaha - 3 bolts
If all 3 are out mate nothing is holding it except the shear weight of it .
It won’t just slide off mate it weighs part 15kg
They’re awkward to remove but just lift and slide sideways
Can you look at my armature and see if it's salvageable?
Fb Backshed or Instagram backshedmick
What did you use to clean the inside of the casing ???
Compressed air and aerosol contact cleaner mate 🍺👍
@@backshed5295 Thx ..
Also, great video too .. Explained alot of thevissues I'm having ..
If the cart senses the anti-roll away but still wont run what could be the problem?
It may still be this problem
It just means that a brush is contacting enough to activate the anti roll buzzer but not enough contact from all brushes to run.
@@backshed5295 ok ill try it thanks
Are you using brake cleaner to clean it all up?
Contact cleaner but yep especially the same thing.👍
I wish this thing would let me send you a picture of it. I’m not sure can be polished out. Looks all black
If the ribs are gone then it’s passed it . You can contact me on Fb or Instagram Backshedmick
I messaged you on messenger
Ty for responding to me. I’m not a wealthy man. So I’m trying to do this myself. And I’m an amateur for sure. Lol
I have a 2010 g29 and when I did the roll test it didn’t beep but sounded like the solenoid clicked once just by pushing it not hitting the pedal my cart does not run at all just with key on and in run mode when I hit the gas I get one click like the solenoid opens then a sec later closes ?
Get your batteries load tested ( not just voltage checked ) if they are fine then do this repair.
I did the load test and tested good if I did the 12v jump test and the motor spun do you think I would still need to perform this procedure I get a reverse buzzer but does that same one click has a one sec delay and then another click
Yes .
Try try the push test with everything switched on again
Then gently tap the motor with a hammer , the theory is it may dislodge or shift a brush or carbon build-up and see if the push test changes or it runs . If it runs or the resistance of the push test changes you know it’s time to pull the motor.
@@backshed5295 did the cleaning and sprayed it out did just like the video nothing seemed to be sticking as of the brushes but clean it all and put it back together and I’m still getting the same thing
Was the armature burnt or scored?
Have you tested that voltage is actually getting to the motor?