If goal is only to increase rpm mildly. The sheet metal throttle body with two T30's is a channel mount to move forward or backward to adjust rpm. I was trying to adjust the governor arm that has a tension fit key situation. It ran away fast as the tension was not adequate. It's really tight space work with even with needle nose pliers. Best bet is to shift the throttle body if only light rpm adjustments are desired. Great video! Stay with it!!
9:18 Why not just remove the governor arm on the outside of the block. And just run the throttle cable directly to the carb? Let the governor do it's thing inside the block and outside as you won't be hooked up tp it?
While were here. It seems to me that if you drop duel chains and sprockets out of a 700 series gear box to a 1-1/4" axle. Turning tight on pavement with AG tires 27" tall. The forces will be in the axle, being 1-1/4" and the gearbox would not see the live axle. You may have to lean it over a bit like a three wheeler to get the inside tire to slip on the pavement. Also if you extended the gear box out puts all the way to the edge of the tires You would gain "chunk" clearance. And If on the extending out part use two per side pillow block bearings, and two pillow block bearings on the input pully. The gearbox would be isolated from any false torque's. Further If you were to drop a chain. you would have a back up. I have a machine shop, so I could co further and make a much stouter out put shaft and shift forks. js.
John is becoming a great shop assistant. Well John said the governor delete was a 4 on a 1-10 scale...so is John saying he's doing the next governor delete LOL.
Thanks for this video I'm not removing the governor because I need more RPM who is I'm removing it because it's broken it'll start up but it will randomly shoot to full throttle choke the engine and it dies I think it's missing a gear or 2 which while it's running would make the governor stop moving and go to full throttle that's the only reason I can think of so I'm going to remove it timer for quite possibly breaks into more pieces inside the block
I need help with my engine. I have a 24 hp mower engine I’m converting from vertical to horizontal, and the shaft is 1 1/8 “. What can I use for a clutch?? I can only find 1” torque converters
Nope engine is still in the machine. Besides is not the rod that lets go it's the plastic upper cam gear. This is why it's tuned in to run 5200K and call it good.
If goal is only to increase rpm mildly. The sheet metal throttle body with two T30's is a channel mount to move forward or backward to adjust rpm. I was trying to adjust the governor arm that has a tension fit key situation. It ran away fast as the tension was not adequate. It's really tight space work with even with needle nose pliers. Best bet is to shift the throttle body if only light rpm adjustments are desired. Great video! Stay with it!!
9:18 Why not just remove the governor arm on the outside of the block. And just run the throttle cable directly to the carb? Let the governor do it's thing inside the block and outside as you won't be hooked up tp it?
While were here. It seems to me that if you drop duel chains and sprockets out of a 700 series gear box to a 1-1/4" axle. Turning tight on pavement with AG tires 27" tall. The forces will be in the axle, being 1-1/4" and the gearbox would not see the live axle. You may have to lean it over a bit like a three wheeler to get the inside tire to slip on the pavement. Also if you extended the gear box out puts all the way to the edge of the tires
You would gain "chunk" clearance. And If on the extending out part use two per side pillow block bearings, and two pillow block bearings on the input pully. The gearbox would be isolated from any false torque's. Further If you were to drop a chain. you would have a back up. I have a machine shop, so I could co further and make a much stouter out put shaft and shift forks. js.
John is becoming a great shop assistant. Well John said the governor delete was a 4 on a 1-10 scale...so is John saying he's doing the next governor delete LOL.
I was wondering the same sense I did most of the not fun parts lol.
@@RCGRacing LOL, would make for an interesting video HAHA!!!
Thanks for this video I'm not removing the governor because I need more RPM who is I'm removing it because it's broken it'll start up but it will randomly shoot to full throttle choke the engine and it dies I think it's missing a gear or 2 which while it's running would make the governor stop moving and go to full throttle that's the only reason I can think of so I'm going to remove it timer for quite possibly breaks into more pieces inside the block
Looks like the old bucket will turn some RPM tho.
I loved this clip 😊
Thank you 😊
I need help with my engine. I have a 24 hp mower engine I’m converting from vertical to horizontal, and the shaft is 1 1/8 “. What can I use for a clutch?? I can only find 1” torque converters
Is there a follow up video for when the connecting rods let go?
Nope engine is still in the machine. Besides is not the rod that lets go it's the plastic upper cam gear. This is why it's tuned in to run 5200K and call it good.
Did you take the governor arm off
Love it have a 19 horsepower
25:50 Why nit use a harmonic balancer puller? Not picking at ya, just wondering.
That’s just another way of pulling a flywheel there’s still a chance of the magnet coming off
buen dia tengo un tractor 15.5 se pude hacer que valla mas rapido ya que no lo boy a usar para cortar el zacate
What mikuni carburetor should I use on my Briggs and Stratton intek 18.5 engine?
35 mm
thanks. for this video , It really helped