To Treestuff: As Mike says below: the way of coiling shown in the beginning of your video makes the rope tangle more, not less! As a former sailor, this is something I learned a lifetime ago, but still today, I see that most people coil braided ropes wrong. All over the world... I'm not a youtube-filmmaker, so I'll try to explain mine and Mikes theory in words: There are two types of ropes: 1. stranded and 2. braided (hollow or double-braided 1. Stranded ropes are produced by twisting thinner ropes around eachother (usually three strands and normally clockwise). So this rope already has a bit of twist in it, but only in one direction, and works ok with both the coiling as shown in Treestuff video, or in eights. In traditional sailing theese ropes are still used (hemp, cocofibers or polyester), but in arb industry it's nowadays very few people who still use these. Problem is: we are still coiling our ropes as if we did... because...: 2. Braided rope does NOT have a "direction". When you braid, left is over right, then right over left, left over right etcetcetc. Do we agree on this? Neutral direction. This means, it needs to be coiled in a neutral way. So. There is a few techniques for this. I use three different ones and I'll try to describe them: The first two are both the eights/butterfly/rockclimber's technique. For long ropes I coil over the neck (as shown in the treestuffvideo), for short ropes I put the rope in my hand, left-right-left-right, as if the thumb is the neck. The third techniqe is same to use for wire, cable and hose: 'over and under' (I call it 'every second' ;) Well described in this video: ua-cam.com/video/cpuutP6Df84/v-deo.html I hope someone out there find this useful. If Treestuff see this - please try it out. And if you find it's actually true facts - then please take this video out and make a new one. Lets teach people ways to not make climbing smooth, not every descend a twisted mess... Thanks for reading this far, if you did. /Veronika
This was the 3rd and only video of the 3 that showed how to bag it. Seems to be that bagging is the best option to help avoid a big mess on longer ropes like the 200' rope just bagged. Thanks!
If you look at the links in my other comment, you'll see that there are better ways to coil the rope that avoids the twisting. But I think using a bag is by far the easiest if you're not going to coil it.
An older rock climber showed me the shoulder technique but for long ropes he doubled it up by taking both the ends together to start it out. As I've been using it, works pretty nicely and saves heaps of time.
Thank you, this is great and saved. I was watching your tutorial beginning with my 5/8” bull line rope. I have two huge oaks to deal with. I did the arm wind just to get everything relaxed as the rope came new wound and wrapped. 5/8” isn’t a lot of fun. Then I bagged it coiled. Next came the Bazooka 1/2”. I ended up tying that to my truck hitch to get it relaxed. Then I did the coiled method and bagged it. After I use these, if they don’t get damp, I’ll just bag them and per demo 2. I have a ways to go practicing with my equipment a few feet off the ground on an 8-10 walnut I cut back to cut down.
So the twist in the rope isn't a "fact of life", it's there because the coiling method you're using is actually causing twists with every added coil. Were you to continue doing this for the entire rope, it will also lead to annoying tangles when you go to use it. To avoid this from happening, you need to do the "over/under" coiling method that will put an alternating twist in the rope with every coil. The over/under method is required when coiling audio cables, and while not as obvious for rope, still makes a big difference. Here's how to do the over/under method: ua-cam.com/video/cpuutP6Df84/v-deo.html
I dont know, probly one of those things where everyone has a preference. These methods have worked for me for a long time. Whatever works for you though!
@@nickbonner9712 you might not mind the twists, but doing the one-way twist really isn't the ideal way to coil a rope, and it's especially frustrating for the user that has to use the rope later due to all the built-in tangle-causing twists. Now, once you've run the rope over a branch, and/or through your devices, that will inherently migrate all the twists towards the tail of the rope (and hopefully clear them out), but why even create the potential for a problem from the get-go when it's easily avoidable - plus, if someone isn't careful, that twist-introducing method could lead to kinks and/or knots in your rope which could be a serious safety concern unless someone takes the time to untwist the rope before every use. Here are some other methods will yield a coiled rope that is free of twists and will consistently flake out perfectly: ua-cam.com/video/r5ScaBkjoh4/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/qMGf15BJxU0/v-deo.html This one is the same method as you described, but he addresses the twists: ua-cam.com/video/EV-nnKle_68/v-deo.html Your second and third methods are great - the first really shouldn't be used unless you do the over/under method, which quite honestly, is difficult for most people to learn and is probably best to avoid entirely.
@@nickbonner9712 this one just popped up on my feed (thank you UA-cam algorithm :p) and does a great job highlighting the twisting issue and a method to avoid it (same as one of the others I provided): ua-cam.com/video/E2DT-jJaW3k/v-deo.html
I was amazed/disappointed that someone with such a good reputation And was linked to his video by a reputable arborist company, would start the video with one of the worst ways to stow climbing lines. He even goes on to explain why it’s one of the worst ways it dismisses it as a fact of life. Twist/kinks in ropes are not “a fact of life”. They don’t just appear on their on. They form/appear because someone’s improper handling (in this case stowage). To recommend twisting the rope as you coil it is just absurd. Those twist/kinks that you ran into are there because of your recommendation. Every one of the twist that you place in the rope will have to be worked out before the rope is readily usable. This is especially true with longer lengths.
To Treestuff:
As Mike says below: the way of coiling shown in the beginning of your video makes the rope tangle more, not less!
As a former sailor, this is something I learned a lifetime ago, but still today, I see that most people coil braided ropes wrong. All over the world...
I'm not a youtube-filmmaker, so I'll try to explain mine and Mikes theory in words:
There are two types of ropes:
1. stranded and
2. braided (hollow or double-braided
1. Stranded ropes are produced by twisting thinner ropes around eachother (usually three strands and normally clockwise). So this rope already has a bit of twist in it, but only in one direction, and works ok with both the coiling as shown in Treestuff video, or in eights.
In traditional sailing theese ropes are still used (hemp, cocofibers or polyester), but in arb industry it's nowadays very few people who still use these. Problem is: we are still coiling our ropes as if we did... because...:
2. Braided rope does NOT have a "direction". When you braid, left is over right, then right over left, left over right etcetcetc. Do we agree on this? Neutral direction. This means, it needs to be coiled in a neutral way.
So. There is a few techniques for this. I use three different ones and I'll try to describe them:
The first two are both the eights/butterfly/rockclimber's technique. For long ropes I coil over the neck (as shown in the treestuffvideo), for short ropes I put the rope in my hand, left-right-left-right, as if the thumb is the neck.
The third techniqe is same to use for wire, cable and hose: 'over and under' (I call it 'every second' ;) Well described in this video: ua-cam.com/video/cpuutP6Df84/v-deo.html
I hope someone out there find this useful.
If Treestuff see this - please try it out. And if you find it's actually true facts - then please take this video out and make a new one. Lets teach people ways to not make climbing smooth, not every descend a twisted mess...
Thanks for reading this far, if you did. /Veronika
This was the 3rd and only video of the 3 that showed how to bag it. Seems to be that bagging is the best option to help avoid a big mess on longer ropes like the 200' rope just bagged. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
If you look at the links in my other comment, you'll see that there are better ways to coil the rope that avoids the twisting. But I think using a bag is by far the easiest if you're not going to coil it.
An older rock climber showed me the shoulder technique but for long ropes he doubled it up by taking both the ends together to start it out. As I've been using it, works pretty nicely and saves heaps of time.
🎉😮😮😮😮😮
Thank you, this is great and saved. I was watching your tutorial beginning with my 5/8” bull line rope. I have two huge oaks to deal with. I did the arm wind just to get everything relaxed as the rope came new wound and wrapped. 5/8” isn’t a lot of fun. Then I bagged it coiled. Next came the Bazooka 1/2”. I ended up tying that to my truck hitch to get it relaxed. Then I did the coiled method and bagged it. After I use these, if they don’t get damp, I’ll just bag them and per demo 2. I have a ways to go practicing with my equipment a few feet off the ground on an 8-10 walnut I cut back to cut down.
Very informative & well explained….love your shirt btw!!❤
Very informative and helpful advice, thanks.
Awesome video. Thanks for taking time
Happy to help!
What are some of the best brands of rope bags? For standing up, durability, and maybe to carry up with you for rigging?
The treestuff basic rope bags are great value and super durable.
this was vary helpful and well done video, Thanks
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you .
I'm surprised you didn't show the butterfly.
So the twist in the rope isn't a "fact of life", it's there because the coiling method you're using is actually causing twists with every added coil. Were you to continue doing this for the entire rope, it will also lead to annoying tangles when you go to use it. To avoid this from happening, you need to do the "over/under" coiling method that will put an alternating twist in the rope with every coil. The over/under method is required when coiling audio cables, and while not as obvious for rope, still makes a big difference. Here's how to do the over/under method: ua-cam.com/video/cpuutP6Df84/v-deo.html
I dont know, probly one of those things where everyone has a preference. These methods have worked for me for a long time. Whatever works for you though!
@@nickbonner9712 you might not mind the twists, but doing the one-way twist really isn't the ideal way to coil a rope, and it's especially frustrating for the user that has to use the rope later due to all the built-in tangle-causing twists. Now, once you've run the rope over a branch, and/or through your devices, that will inherently migrate all the twists towards the tail of the rope (and hopefully clear them out), but why even create the potential for a problem from the get-go when it's easily avoidable - plus, if someone isn't careful, that twist-introducing method could lead to kinks and/or knots in your rope which could be a serious safety concern unless someone takes the time to untwist the rope before every use.
Here are some other methods will yield a coiled rope that is free of twists and will consistently flake out perfectly:
ua-cam.com/video/r5ScaBkjoh4/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/qMGf15BJxU0/v-deo.html
This one is the same method as you described, but he addresses the twists:
ua-cam.com/video/EV-nnKle_68/v-deo.html
Your second and third methods are great - the first really shouldn't be used unless you do the over/under method, which quite honestly, is difficult for most people to learn and is probably best to avoid entirely.
@@nickbonner9712 this one just popped up on my feed (thank you UA-cam algorithm :p) and does a great job highlighting the twisting issue and a method to avoid it (same as one of the others I provided):
ua-cam.com/video/E2DT-jJaW3k/v-deo.html
Now all you have to do is make your own video on how to
@@seinifaith9512 I was going to, but there were already a number of great ones (which I linked to above).
You could also store it in a plastic bucket, with a lid, if it's not damp or wet, right ?
.
I was amazed/disappointed that someone with such a good reputation And was linked to his video by a reputable arborist company, would start the video with one of the worst ways to stow climbing lines. He even goes on to explain why it’s one of the worst ways it dismisses it as a fact of life.
Twist/kinks in ropes are not “a fact of life”. They don’t just appear on their on. They form/appear because someone’s improper handling (in this case stowage). To recommend twisting the rope as you coil it is just absurd. Those twist/kinks that you ran into are there because of your recommendation. Every one of the twist that you place in the rope will have to be worked out before the rope is readily usable. This is especially true with longer lengths.
Its just a rope!
@@user-ku2qb1pq7e I think we can all agree it's a rope - we're not that dumb...