New'ish climber here. I'd never made the connection that the schwabisch and distel were so similar up until the end. Haven't given the distel a chance up until this point. I think I will now as it's the only one from this video I haven't used.
Thanks you for the information and instruction in tying friction hitches. I have been climbing for two years and have yet to use one knot over the other. I've tried the distel with different variations, different cords and ropes to find that it tends to jam when heavily loaded which we all know is a drag when climbing. Having to tend a friction hitch to break it free when ready to progress takes energy. I've used the VT 4/3 in SRT but don't like the way the legs end to separate when loaded. Now I am experimenting with the michoacan and have hopes it will suit me for climbing on various ropes with different hitch cords. It's nice to know we have option in climbing.. Be safe
Some of my own observations from use practicing with the VT: As Nick mentioned, the VT tends to be easier to break after fully loading it, but the amount of sit back I've experienced is annoying and results in wasted effort. I've temporarily switched to using it for other places like my lanyard and it tends easier than a regular english prusik where my pulley tends to eat and jam on a regular prusik. Then again, I'm still newer and perhaps just need more practice fiddling with it. Richard Mumford has some interesting videos that discuss the variations and nuance adjustments that can come from putting twists in the legs of the friction hitch.
Yeah, I noticed that too. I highly recommend the Michoacán hitch, which is my go-to nowadays. It's equally easy to tie if you know the Blake's hitch--just come out with the cord after the first bottom wrap instead of the second and then use both ends of the cord. I find it to be a nice compromise as it tends nicely and still is more predictable when locking than the VT. Also it takes up much less space. It still can change a little during usage and might not bite properly anymore if it becomes too loose, so still be careful to watch the knot ;)
Great video. Thanks. I wonder if you could give us your point of view on how safe it would be to use a 6mm rope, 12KN, for Prusik knots to climb rocks and trees. Thank you.
Really appreciate these instructional videos - I like the way you explain not only the good & bad, but also the WHY. I'm coming back to climbing, originally learned in the olden days with just a tautline hitch - that Blake guy wasn't even born yet.... Anyway, my question is, is there a downside to having your legs longer after your hitch is tied? In other words - say you can tie a distel with a 28" cord, but you use a 32", so each leg ends up 2" longer. Is there any difference in the performance of the hitch if your hardware is down a bit further off the hitch & line? I guess it might affect the tending pulley if you use one.... You mentioned spliced vs. sewn eyes as far as stiffness, but does the distance itself affect the performance of the hitch?
Excellent information. Which interstate you live by? We were up there last year. I wish I would have stopped by and said hey. I was going to reset #1. Love you guys! Thanks much for what you all do.
There is just one simple question I have, that nobody for some reason can answer. Can you climb SRT without a mechanical device, aka, with a prusik. I’ve got some big trees to cut down, and Im going to chunk them down in firewood sizes. Being able to go SRT without spending a boatload of money on a device would be great. Many thanks in advance for the advice!
@richardnailhistorical3445 You literally found the most pathetic thing to complain about…? You’re welcome for the information you found informative simply because you did not critic his knot information… Pity
You're a dizzy bastard, my comment was justified, if you want people to learn something do it in an area they can hear what you are saying. The comment was made for your benefit but apparently your so goddamm self conscious you see it as a threat of some sort?
Nick Bonner called the cops on my business partner, and told them he doesn't want our business anymore, then continued to send soliciting Emails twice a day of inventory HE DOESN'T EVEN HAVE IN STOCK!!!! Bartlet arborist supply in Michigan has everything for much cheaper then this clown. Trust me. Just have a look
New'ish climber here. I'd never made the connection that the schwabisch and distel were so similar up until the end. Haven't given the distel a chance up until this point. I think I will now as it's the only one from this video I haven't used.
Thanks you for the information and instruction in tying friction hitches. I have been climbing for two years and have yet to use one knot over the other. I've tried the distel with different variations, different cords and ropes to find that it tends to jam when heavily loaded which we all know is a drag when climbing. Having to tend a friction hitch to break it free when ready to progress takes energy. I've used the VT 4/3 in SRT but don't like the way the legs end to separate when loaded. Now I am experimenting with the michoacan and have hopes it will suit me for climbing on various ropes with different hitch cords. It's nice to know we have option in climbing.. Be safe
Gotta try many options are you using rope wrench
That was very well done. Thank you Nick. Be Safe
best,
Haven't even started tying knots or climbing yet.
Thanks for the content.
Keep up the good work.
BS'D
Some of my own observations from use practicing with the VT:
As Nick mentioned, the VT tends to be easier to break after fully loading it, but the amount of sit back I've experienced is annoying and results in wasted effort. I've temporarily switched to using it for other places like my lanyard and it tends easier than a regular english prusik where my pulley tends to eat and jam on a regular prusik.
Then again, I'm still newer and perhaps just need more practice fiddling with it.
Richard Mumford has some interesting videos that discuss the variations and nuance adjustments that can come from putting twists in the legs of the friction hitch.
Yeah, I noticed that too. I highly recommend the Michoacán hitch, which is my go-to nowadays. It's equally easy to tie if you know the Blake's hitch--just come out with the cord after the first bottom wrap instead of the second and then use both ends of the cord. I find it to be a nice compromise as it tends nicely and still is more predictable when locking than the VT. Also it takes up much less space. It still can change a little during usage and might not bite properly anymore if it becomes too loose, so still be careful to watch the knot ;)
These are great videos. Here's a comment for the algo
Excellent presentation, thanks for the info.
Thanks for watching!
I like the knut... it self tends sometimes
Great video. Thanks. I wonder if you could give us your point of view on how safe it would be to use a 6mm rope, 12KN, for Prusik knots to climb rocks and trees. Thank you.
Can you do one with the michoican?
can you make a video on using a presik on a lanyard?
Really appreciate these instructional videos - I like the way you explain not only the good & bad, but also the WHY. I'm coming back to climbing, originally learned in the olden days with just a tautline hitch - that Blake guy wasn't even born yet.... Anyway, my question is, is there a downside to having your legs longer after your hitch is tied? In other words - say you can tie a distel with a 28" cord, but you use a 32", so each leg ends up 2" longer. Is there any difference in the performance of the hitch if your hardware is down a bit further off the hitch & line? I guess it might affect the tending pulley if you use one.... You mentioned spliced vs. sewn eyes as far as stiffness, but does the distance itself affect the performance of the hitch?
Hi there. Thanks! The distance definitely does effect it, make sure to tinker with it low and slow!
Excellent information. Which interstate you live by? We were up there last year. I wish I would have stopped by and said hey. I was going to reset #1. Love you guys! Thanks much for what you all do.
Rt 2
My choice are Distel and VT. Mostly Distel though.
Is a 6mm prusik on a 8mm lifeline rope ok for roofing (2-story) safety setup?
80 mm long? Thanks
Verry good
There is just one simple question I have, that nobody for some reason can answer. Can you climb SRT without a mechanical device, aka, with a prusik. I’ve got some big trees to cut down, and Im going to chunk them down in firewood sizes. Being able to go SRT without spending a boatload of money on a device would be great. Many thanks in advance for the advice!
8:33
He must be standing on the shoulder of a major highway??? Suggestion: Film your videos in a quite background - much easier to listen to!
@richardnailhistorical3445
You literally found the most pathetic thing to complain about…?
You’re welcome for the information you found informative simply because you did not critic his knot information…
Pity
You're a dizzy bastard, my comment was justified, if you want people to learn something do it in an area they can hear what you are saying. The comment was made for your benefit but apparently your so goddamm self conscious you see it as a threat of some sort?
camera to far, moving to fast
Nick Bonner called the cops on my business partner, and told them he doesn't want our business anymore, then continued to send soliciting Emails twice a day of inventory HE DOESN'T EVEN HAVE IN STOCK!!!! Bartlet arborist supply in Michigan has everything for much cheaper then this clown. Trust me. Just have a look
I can't help but notice you failed to mention the REASON he called the cops on your business partner.