Customer States: NO Electronic Four Wheel Drive | 2013 Toyota FJ Cruiser
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- Опубліковано 7 жов 2024
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I would have used a shop vac to remove the obstruction but seeing the sludge ball shoot out of the hose was great entertainment.
Yeah shop vac works best. Use of on the home HVAC on occasion
I was thinking, "slip a hose over it, with the right ID it will hang on", then I realized, he could have just held one end of a garden hose over it with one hand and in a minute it would all be drained.
Hey RRR, one key difference between your repair videos is how you spend time explaining wiring diagrams in such detail! That's so valuable to me/us because it's so complicated already of the actual physical repair. Thank you Ray!
And if Rays doesn't know something, he learns from it.
Well in the end, the customer will end up paying extra labor to access that front wheel drive module.
Hi Ray, Electronics guy here. I noticed on the diagrams that the motor wires go directly to the control box. Connect your meter leads to the "motor" pins on the control box and check for power as you are selecting 2 or 4 wheel drive. The polarity should change depending on engaging or disengagement. It appears that the limit switches on the motor drive, apply a ground to the control box. Check the pins of the respective switch contacts for a high or low depending on transmission selection. You could also disconnect control box and apply power to the motor contacts. Think power windows, same concept, you should hear the motor operate. Anyways, good luck and thanks for the musings of a mechanic.
...the musings of a mechanic! Very nicely and accurately put 😊
How do you like tests with meter only? I think, Ray should test continuity using BULB to load circuit. Meter can easy cheat him. And any tests should be done also by using BULB in series.
@@-_Robert_- Hi Robert, While you're right that a load should be used, I just wanted to find out if any power was delivered to the pins and if the polarity reversed when changing transmission states. Looking at the nightmare of getting to the front transmission, I thought it might be easier to test under the dash. (I use easier as the lesser of two evils) Thanks.
@@-_Robert_- What is a BULD?
@@wayneessar7489 I think he meant light bulb, turns on when powered.
Just a note: When using the shop vac for water, the paper filter will get wet and in time…Moldy. I usually pull the paper filter because water will prevent dust from blowing out, or make sure to pull the filter afterwards and make sure it dries out. Don’t want to blow mold spores every time you switch on the vacuum.
Love your shows!
I always remove the filter when wet vacuuming, otherwise the wet filter and dust clog up said filter and wears out motor on said vacuum, a decent hepa filter is 20 dollars and you're throwing money away
Always remove filter when wet vacuuming
Yep
Directions say to remove paper filter, when u vac water
Who bothers with paper filters in their shop vac anymore, there are reusable ones that you can pop out and are washable, they also don't allow dust to blow out the exhaust like paper filters do, if you don't use one it's worth getting one, I have them in all my shoo vac, I have four vacs one without a filter that I use specifically for water, I have a fifth one that's ten gallons that I loaned to a friend to vacuum out his eight person spa many years ago, but unfortunately it's buried somewhere in his garage, he's a hoarder so I may never see it again, it's a genie that I found in a dumpster, people throw good stuff sometimes.
@@Peter-pv8xx my $30 shop vac from walmart came with a decent filter like that when it get dirty just tap it out and every so often blow it out with air compressor has a wire mesh over it so its not a cheap paper filter like most have
I found your channel while surfing U Tube. Very interesting and professional. Did my first brake job the other day on a 2006 Toyota Rav 4 after watching many of your brake job videos. At 70 and retired, the wife unit and I enjoy your daily videos. I also have a 2014 Ram 1500 that had the dry spline issue on the drive shaft. That also went smoothly but was surprised that the splines were about 24" long. I indexed the flange and the splines so it went back in the exact orientation that it came off. Cleaned what grease was there, re-greased and repair is complete. You were correct about not having to remove the complete shaft for this repair. Hydraulic jacks and jack stands were used.
The long splines are so it works on both long n short bed trucks.
Mr. Thomas at 70 years old and still going at it, I'm impressed! I'm 66 years old and find it very difficult to work on my own cars due to health problems, very frustrating to say the least.
26:30- Love how there are several wires run between the grommet and firewall instead of through the grommet properly. I did that on my second car… The fire in my parents garage thankfully didn’t make it out of the engine compartment! 😬
I like to wrap the U-joint or my wobbly extensions with a few wraps of electrical tape. This lets them bend, but stiffens them up enough that you can still get them onto a fastener easily.
I love it when people spend lots of money to make their vehicles harder and more expensive to repair. 😄
Front bash bars are real popular due to deer where I live and I've had to straight up cut off sketchy home made ones for front end access
I know one fella that wired lights wench in a separate fuse box he installed. They only shared battery and power cut off with the truck. He had his last truck go up in smoke from after market stuff. Not gonna happen again he said.
@@chuckd5819 Yeah and that is one SWEET FJ40!!!
I had a similar issue with my Isuzu truck's skid plate & front diff protector blocking access to a couple of bolts so we drilled holes through the plates just big enough to extract them.
Sorted.
rare he gets cars owners with $.
Bulk string trimmer line will clean out the drain hoses really well. I use it on the drains for the windshield and sun roof.
Gotta love old school analog over electronics in situations like this.
Awesome Ray and wife unit…… you guys are making it happen with all your hard work.
On my old ford bronco, it had an electronic controlled shift motor for the 4 wheel drive. After taking it down, I Had to mark the timing marks on the outside case, ground out the antitamper lugs in the torx screws, cleaned the gold plated contacts, and reassembled and it worked just fine afterward.
I live in South Australia, summer temps are around 38c/45c or 100f/113f I have no aircon just a window. But hey I don't drive in the city. My Toyota 80 series had a fault of no low range and no 4wd they wanted to charge me $1200aud just for a new actuator no labour. To remove the actuator it was stated that the transfer case had to be removed. I said no probs I'll fix it my self. Dropped the crossmember and lowered the whole gearbox, blindly removed the actuator found it was ok ended up running a separate earth to the gearbox and problem solved. Good on me!
This is why I regularly exercise all the modes and actuators on my Taco.
I've learned over the years repairing anything not to say, "looks like an easy job". :)
This is actually one of the reasons i like your vids. Sometimes they turn out like real life.. thanks for keeping them real and honest
Thanks for all of your videos Ray. You inspire me to make 3-4 videos per day for my 1 man exhaust shop on Facebook.(subject to suitable enough content). Keep up the great commentary & greetings from Queensland Australia
What amazes me is the depth of knowledge Ray has on all the different types of vehicles. Ray is a walking encyclopaedia. 🤓🧠👨🏼🎓
Ray is a line mechanic not a technician ive been one all my 61 years and Ray is good but we had books not computers so my office wall was covered and still is
Training and experience!
@@jhh8688 🏅
Google
@@jesses6697 for your very intelligent answer sir We didn't the luxury of google or the internet !! it wasnt around THANK YOU !!!!
It's noisy, I usually use earbuds to listen, partially deaf, but your voice and mic work exceptionally well together and I can hear you above the noise.
I just learned to appreciate my manual locking wheel hubs, a little bit more today
Funny… in Florida we have trouble with slim mold growing in a/c drain lines … not just in cars but houses also… have to blow out the line about once a year at the beginning of summer…
I always Add a lil white vinegar in the line to kill off whatever doesn’t blow out. Doing both = peace of mind.
My HVAC tech recommended pouring a little vinegar in the drain once a month.
Love the little crossover moments when you and the Wife Unit are making separate videos and have some reason to interact. There's just something really cool about getting to see that from both sides.
I'm sure that vehicle comes in useful when climbing the many mountains they have in Florida, plus it's handy to have for all the snow they get.
That is one of those instances where you can recommend a evaporator coil cleaning. Since the clog has been removed you can get some coil cleaner that is foam spray it up the tube and let it sit for awhile to clean the coil or just take the drain hose off and spray in the hole for the hose directly to clean the coil.
I saw a video can't remember the 4x4 but the drain hose is too short. A 3" longer hose had the water draining below the frame. No rust issues. Good job Ray!
Thanks for pointing that out, I thought perhaps I was mistaken when I saw that rust and the dripping on it. I also water still dripping from the front of the case and short hose on the engine firewall.
wasps build mud nests in the AC drainage tubes on Tojo's here in Northern Australia all the time, easy to rip out the drain tube and give it a few whacks to clear it. Check the drain on the other side of the firewall too
I had a similar issue with my 2014 rogue, I used the longest zip tie I had, then went for my shop vac. good strong suction and didn't have to disconnect the fan, all that nastiness was gone.
Making an adapter to fit the end of the drain line and the other end to fit your vacuum and voila. Out comes the obstruction and all the water. It's quicker and cleaner. I usually do this on larger HVAC units.
I used to clean out HV AC units I use a piece of wire for the condensate drain have a great day
You could also use vacuum to try and clear it out. Providing it doesn't suck the hose closed. This is what many do in the HVAC trade of residential and commercial applications.
My truck is highly modified for off-road use. The armor saves all those expensive things under the truck. The trade off is that the front skid plate has to be removed to service the front differential and many other parts.The amount of time it takes the me or my mechanic to do that is far less expensive than the undercarriage parts that would have been destroyed were it not there. That is the price you pay when you modify your vehicle so you can go have fun! Worth every penny to me.
The modifications to truly be offroad capable are many. Armoring the underside, sealing Everything and everything else. It seems that most "offroad" vehicles never even see a gravel road.
@@kenore4003 True, Jeep dealerships call the 75% of their buyers “dreamers” . I have a few hours of hammering every time I remove my skid plates so they will go back on. Nothing against anyone who has a 4X4 but does not go off-road. Peace
Perfect chance for wife unit to teach Rainman that when wife unit is using vac, the vac is not available. Wife unit could accomplish this in wife unit's channel. Also, a great way to indicate that when Rainman buys a part/tool for his side, he should be an exact duplicate for Wife unit. That way you always know where to find a 10mm except you got to return it.
Had Plymouth wit a similar problem RE water. The AC drain hose would stick shut. It was pinched plastic that was supposed to act like a valve.
Had a 2000 Pont Grand Prix. You could actually hear when the heater/blower motor filled with water and see water dripping out through the bottom of the motor. Under warranty, they would blow the blockage back into the system, and within a few days the problem would be back. After the third blower motor in 2 months, they told me they would refuse to cover any more under warranty as I only had a couple of months left on the warranty. Took the car to a local guy who did what you did. That was the last GM I ever owned.
Ray. It would be nice on this kind of repair/diagnostic if you’d summarize at the end how many hours you actually spent, since your videos are understandably edited down to fit UA-cam format. Wouldn’t be necessary on all repairs, but on these that are diagnostically focused, it would be interesting to know, and would give viewers a sense of what kind of effort is needed, and why repair bills are sometimes difficult to understand. Thanks for another great video.
Your wife is so good, she didn't even protest when you stole the vacuum. Why can't you clear that junk car out from under the carport so she has somewhere to park the minivan? 🚙🚙🚙🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺
A test light is a better way to check a circuit-
1. You can see if the light lights- don't have to look away toward your meter.
2. A multimeter will show voltage even if the circuit is not complete- a test light proves the circuit can carry a load.
You can test the plug on the front diff to see if you are getting a signal to the motor from the ECU. If you are getting signal and the diff is not locking, then you know it's in the diff motor.
Something similar to the water from the ac happened to an old Smart car my son had... except that the electronics for the car were installed under the floor board and didn't survive the swim. No symptoms until the car was basically worthless.
Ray, I have A 2004 Tundra Double Cab 4x4 and A 2006 Sequoia 4x4 and Toyotas are known for 4x4 actuator problems coming for not using them regularly. The grease on the contacts inside the actuators will harden up and keep the contacts from making a good connection. My 2006 Sequoia had problems and I took the front actuator off and cleaned the old, hardened grease off and put new grease in it and all was well. Now about once per month I will activate the 4x4 and the 4LO also and drive them a short distance to keep the 4x4 system working. There may even be something about this in the owner's manual. Long time viewer. Great channel.
It's a Toydozer!
My lil Nissan truck did the same thing, a lil compressed air in the tube and it drained out. Every couple years and it ran fine.
Amazingly well diagnosed. Your experience really shines through
Rusted blower motor resistor still works, good old Toyota.
I used to have a 1997 Chevy Z71. The plastic front drive actuator wouldn’t engage Yes the forks moved a collar to engage or disengage front drive. Replaced actuator and worked perfectly. Loved that 97 with 350. 8 and Magna-Flow exhaust
I remember when four wheel drive systems was simple you just had a shifter and lockouts modifications and all this electronic stuff just makes life a lot more complicated great diagnosis have a great day
Yea, this system has me confused. At least if it's designed to work as Ray explains it. Why would putting the jeep in low 4-wheel drive enable the diff-lock? That should always be something you enable as needed. Now if it was a limited slip differential then that's one thing, but locking the differential make the jeep a lot harder to wrestle around obstacles. So is that really what these are designed to do or did I missunderstand?
Tremendousl video Ray. I continue to admire your impressive diagnosing of the problem and am impressed with your candidness when you can't quickly solve the problem. You are terrific. Thanks for sharing.
Maybe use the vacuum to extract the plug and extra fluid first...less wet arm pits lol
Yeah, I was literally shouting “vacuum” at the screen lol.
Seeing the plug, measly -14 psi would not have done it; +80 psi yes.
That was a good diag Video despite the road block,we will stay tuned...
Still a very good diagnosis video regardless of the roadblock. 👍👍👍
After you fixed the AC drain, I can’t believe the owner didn’t notice that wasn’t any water under the car with the AC on, and you spent time finding the problem with the FWD components and their location hopefully you discussed the amount of hours involved to get the part because of his choice of a lift kit. I totally understand “flag time” used in flat rate but all bets are off when the vehicle has been altered in such a manner. The kit manufacturers don’t care about this type of problem and a Toyota dealer might find it and call you to bring it to someone else for repairs. Great find Ray. Shops here are $100 per hour for Mech/Tech work eventho they don’t make that kind of pay but you have a shop and overhead now…good luck.
Those front axle disconnects probably make some people miss good old locking hubs.
Try turning steering lock to lock, if it has vacuum operated front hubs, sometimes they stick if not used enough, i had this issue on a 96 s15 jimmy, the grease got dry and made the hubs stick until you turned lock to lock to free them up.
The rear locker on the FJ is not automatic. There is a switch that should be found in the center switch panel.
You've checked the 3 transmission switches and have confirmed they are working. So, I think you are on the right track with the front servo being at fault. It isn't a common fault but it does happen. Without the lift kit (seriously why?) it is an easy job to get at.
Yes, rear diff lock is separate and does not come unless activated. The front actuator is a common failure point though. Lots of mods to get rid of it completely.
What I've done in the past is just stick a long tie strap into the bottom of the hose (like a snake) to loosen the obstruction and let the water drain out.
Works very well. U can also run the square tip first too to push stubborn crap a little to loosen it up.
I have a 2010 Ford edge the same thing happened to it dirt Dobbers had built in the drain tube flooded the passenger floor here in Kentucky. Have a great day Ray.
Hi Ray,
Another FJ.
Another set of complications.
The after market wires running around the outside of the firewall wiring harness bellow (at 26:34) rather than through it is bit of a worry.
That right there is a short circuit and potential fire waiting to happen.
Yeah, making aftermarket stuff neat and tidy seems to elude some people, especially when it can be hidden away out of sight. Then when you have to access it and separate the wires, without knowing it you could half disconnect a flaky home-grown connector leaving something live partially exposed.
There's no fire that is going to happen.
Somewhere I hope is a fuse in that rat's nest have a good day
Nice FJ! Probably the best vehicle ever made! Father has one with 400 thousand plus miles on it. Runs like a top! Just replaced the starter! Was still cranking, but was making noise! Lol.
I have the same shallow ratchet kit. The tool is amazing.
Great job explaining. Waiting for outcome on this one. I did wonder why you didn’t just get to the plug on front actuator and test it. Looks like you could reach the plug.
You worry about the fan working in Florida degrees. LOL I worry about it working in the winter. At -30 you need heat.
When you vacuumed up that nickel I immediately thought that the Wife Unit will get it as a tip for being such great help!
Removing a blower motor resistor pack is always a pain in the side. Well maybe a part two. Mass disassembly!
Love that "Gravity."
The rats nest on the drivers side is remote star and alarm, looks like a Viper alarm system .
When the transfer case goes into 4x4 high or 4x4 low it will command the front diff actuator to engage. There is a position switch there and once it has engaged the light on the dash will turn on. The rear locker will only engage in 4x4 low after pushing the dash switch. If the 4x4 engagement does not complete with the signal from the front diff, that will not work either.
FJ has a rear locker switch. It might be up by the rear view mirror in that 2013 Trail Teams.
Good morning Ray. I always like the FJ’s neat vehicles. Great video as always.
Neatly expensive.
The rear diff lock button is above the mirror with the crawl control knob. On FJ's with crawl control it is up there and not in the lower console area. There are two switches on the side of the transfer case that are engaged when moving the shift lever that will send the signal to activate the front axle shift fork. The other let's the ecu know it's in 4 low so you can then activate the rear diff lock or crawl control. Those only work in 4 low.
Yes, still more troubleshooting to do!
Nice paint job. I wonder if it's original and 10 years old? Pretty amazing to have a ten year old paint job that is that nice now.
It was still pretty good diagnostic Ray your a dam good mechanic
Think about it, a water cooled fan resistor, you don't see that every day 🙂
I'm glad I caught this one, I'll be checking that next time I'm under there!
In the good old days ,you just shifted a transfer case. No electronics to short out or fail.
The new Suzuki Jimny still have a manual lever for High/Low
@@davidnorton5887 Where can I buy one?
We need to bring this back. Bad Electronics ruin otherwise good vehicles and with the microchip shortage you could be left with a 75000 dollar lawn ornament.
The worst thing that happened on my 76 Blazer was wheel bearing came loose in the lockout would not disengage took it apart repacked the bearing put it back together did it in the street and everything worked fine have a great day
And twist the Warn (or other) locking hubs to LOCK. It really wasn't hard.
I found letting a part soaked in white vinegar for a few days will remove most of the corrosion
cant believe that resistor still functions.!!!!!!!
Blower resistors are tough!!!
It's a Toyota
I hope you have a part two on this yota I enjoyed this video because I have a taco yota with 4X4 action.
LOL...when you said "let's take a leak" at the drain hose. It's good to have some humor and fun at work. Keep up the great videos.
Checking powers and grounds with meter only is NO GO. Put load to this cables. Light some bulb via this cables by puting power from battery (not module). Gonna need some more test cables to bring power and ground and some bulbs from junk car, maybe directional bulb (21W?), positioning bulb (5W) and for bigger diameter cables head bulb (50W).
One thing that I have realized after getting car maintenance (early on when I didn't know components) is that whenever I get called about issues, I was rarely told why I should replace something or what is wrong. Usually they say something like "we found X item is wrong and should be replaced". After thinking back, I believe I could have fixed or made better decisions if I knew more about the issue at hand.
I drive one of these myself. It’s absolutely reliable and a joy to drive. There’s no comparing an FJ to the garbage Jeeps made these days.
Why not put it in neutral and then you can move it to the position you want. Also, on plug drain tube, just vacuum it out from underneath.
Couldn't believe he didn't use the shop vac on it!
That sound you heard while you were tugging on that HVAC drain was me screaming, "shop vac"!
This is why I like my old Wrangler with mechanical levers to actuate 4wd.
FYI most oil absorbant mats actually repel water, at least that's the case with New Pig brand ones.
If you get the gray Pig Mats they absorb water and not oil handy sometimes.
A request/suggestion. When you say amount of miles for the car, if you could ad it in km as one of those flashing subtitles.
The AC is doing its job removing humidity, cooling and cleaning the air. By the looks of the snorkel kit they must play in swampy areas or drive across rivers. There will probably be lots of corrosion inside the actuators. How much water has entered the diffs and contaminated the oil. It's going to be fun either way getting access to the front diff module. There is a bulletin out for the frame on the 550 Ram rollback that's sitting outside. Wife Unit is cleaning up dirt from there adventure, picking up flowers. Greenhouses here are just getting ready to start trays of seeds. Still have to heat the greenhouses.
the front actuator unit is a free wheeling feature that disengages the front drive shafts in 2 high just like free wheeling hubs.
Aftermarket Mods adds double time onto any repair, voids any warranty and sometimes adds no real value to the vehicle. Good job with the diagnosis there Ray.
My buddies son bought a brand new Silverado,got it home and started putting the lift kit on it(there was some cutting involved) then came the engine performance mods! He had and issue with something in the dash,and took it to the dealer,they proceeded to explain that he had voided all of the manufacturers warranty! But it looked cool.
My Jeep dealer doesn’t do this
@@petersmart1999 Yep. Aftermarket mods are no good for warranties. Need to be able to return to original configuration before sending in for repairs.
you should hook another longer tube on it while u clean the black tube out.
36:30....... remove the 8 bolts for lift kit it comes down without removal and will allow access to unit you need to test...... still about 4 hours of work......
he was not authorized to pull apart the front end
plus he was authorized for only about 2 hours of work not 4+
I know.....but he said he would have to bring the hole thing back but thats alot of work and would have to remove everything from behind as well witch would take even longer than 4 hours
Have you thought about putting a mirror in front of that lift for whenever you need to pull vehicles in as close as possible to the wall?
Did we have a actuator counter going….pretty sure that was a lot of actuators in a3-5 min section of Raymans ( pun intended) repair!!!!!! Great video, I have the same thing happen to my FJ with the A/C somehow a rock just the right resize got down there and was stuck, I just replace the hose and then waited three month for the fan control unit to come it but fine didn’t look as bad as that one did….Good work sir
You can use weed trimmer line to fish out those drain tube clogs, it works great on power roof drains.
Wow a mechanic who acts like he really enjoys his job. He doesn't even swear 😂
He loves it. No matter how hard it may be
Ray's swear word is "WORDS"
"Same Difference" can be a valid statement, depending on how you use it. It was originally a math term. For example, 9-7=2 and 5-3=2. They have the same difference. So if you are comparing things and they are relatively the same in one way, minus all other features, they have the same difference. In this video, Ray refers to a bolt and a screw, and says, "same difference," referring to the fact that they are both threaded fasteners. They are the same in that way, minus the type of threads and required tooling. I would have to say he used it correctly.
Interesting analogy. Next time I need to use a fastner to secure a clamp to a stud, i'll try your math formula and see if a bolt is the same differance as a nut and see if it works. Nope, misgendered. Shucks. 😀
@@Dave-ty2qp I did say "minus all other features." That's why it's "same difference," because there is a difference.
@@michaeltaylor5939 But if there is a difference they aren't the same.
@Dave I refer you back to my original message. Read it carefully.
@@michaeltaylor5939 Reading goobly gock once is enough Michael.
I love there is comming A part II. love challenges and have to use my head..
Another morning breakfast and a good ole Ray repair video to start my day !!!
Your knowledge overwhelms me.👍
Had that same water issue a few years ago with a gmc terrain. Inside the tube was a cocoon from some insect.
Thanks
Rear locker only works in 4 Low. Locker switch is overhead next to crawl track dial. In my 2013 anyway
How about the water under the mat? as plenty driped down and soaked the sound proofing stuf.