You should have doubled up on the other side of that cut out and at least 2 feet past the break. Always glue and screw. Use the bolts before the nails or screws. Installing a few supports in the basement is never a bad idea if you have room. Each can easily cover 3 joists using a strong support on top. Cross bracing between joists is always a good idea.
Agree with all your points, and would add to use structural rated screws, HD and Lowes both carry them. Construction adhesive should be used since the original is painted so carpenters glue would be ineffective (it needs to be absorbed into the cellular structure of the wood to hold).
Hey, thank you for watching. Jacking up roof rafters can be tricky. They can start to crack and snap on you. If the sag : bow has been there for many many years, you may want to just add additional bracing to what’s already there… LVL laminated beams are a great way to do this in a garage.
I had to do this to two cracked joists in my basement, electrician drilled holes right at the bottom of the joists. I squeezed glue above the original joist before lifting, on the side and on top of the new, hopefully prevents future squeaks. Just as a side note, grk makes screws that are rated at 450lbs in sheer, 16d nails are rated at 150lbs in sheer. Although it’s kind of a moot point if you’re putting in lag bolts.
I have a simular issue in an old house were a 2 ft section was cut out a floor joist. I was going to use 2 trimmers and joist hangers etc, but if I used this scabbing/sistering method you are showing in the vid will that be up to code in NC? Also if the section of jost thats missing is 2 feet. how long do the sistered boards need to be? Granted we have no peir or support to rest the boards on so they would just be sistered on both sides of the cut joist. LMK thanks!
I think it will hold up just fine....since you have to add all that extra strength on each side just run your new joists extra long, say....2 feet or more on each side. Properly secure everything and it will be 1000% stronger than it currently is. Good luck
You could if you want to. But honestly, I don’t see why you would need to bother with that. As long as you are through bolting the repair together, it should be a solid as when the house was built. Good luck.
There are structural rated screws, eg GRK R4, otherwise use nails, also the sister joist should ideally be free of large knots, especially on the edge lol, don't use a piece like in this video, and make sure the jack oist is plumb before jacking, an hydraulic bottle jack may be good to have if you have multiple repairs to do or a second story, that little screw does poorly if it's loaded
what you did there is not "sistering". that is a "scab". a sistered joist is the full length of the joist it goes next to. that is what makes it a "sister".
Please share your experiences with this type of repair.
Thank you for your video. I have a severely cracked joist in my basement, so this video gives me good advice.
Glad it helped. You’ll do great 🛠️🛠️
you saved my ass but i will most definitely add extra support on my clients property . You still a Heroe
That’s awesome man. Thanks for watching 🛠️🛠️
You should have doubled up on the other side of that cut out and at least 2 feet past the break. Always glue and screw. Use the bolts before the nails or screws. Installing a few supports in the basement is never a bad idea if you have room. Each can easily cover 3 joists using a strong support on top. Cross bracing between joists is always a good idea.
Thank you for watching and your comments 🛠️🛠️
would construction adhesive be better than carpenters glue here?
@@feralbigdog HD Const. Adhesive for sure. Make sure your screws are strong. They can be the weakest link. Over engineer always.
Agree with all your points, and would add to use structural rated screws, HD and Lowes both carry them. Construction adhesive should be used since the original is painted so carpenters glue would be ineffective (it needs to be absorbed into the cellular structure of the wood to hold).
@@jackpestaner6925 Thanks Jack- I agree with you as well.
Great video,,, if you guys ever do any sagging roof rafter repairs, post it... I think I need to sister up a few roof rafters in a garage I hav
Hey, thank you for watching. Jacking up roof rafters can be tricky. They can start to crack and snap on you. If the sag : bow has been there for many many years, you may want to just add additional bracing to what’s already there… LVL laminated beams are a great way to do this in a garage.
I had to do this to two cracked joists in my basement, electrician drilled holes right at the bottom of the joists. I squeezed glue above the original joist before lifting, on the side and on top of the new, hopefully prevents future squeaks. Just as a side note, grk makes screws that are rated at 450lbs in sheer, 16d nails are rated at 150lbs in sheer. Although it’s kind of a moot point if you’re putting in lag bolts.
Great points. You’re smart, you get it. I love bolts as I believe this repair will last forever. 😊🛠️🛠️
Great job sir
Thank you for watching 🛠️🛠️
Is construction adhesive needed?
Some people use it, it can only help. Although I would say it’s not required at all.
@@HomeRapidRepair By the way, I subbed because Handyman mentioned your channel.
yep helps reduce squeaks too.
I have a simular issue in an old house were a 2 ft section was cut out a floor joist. I was going to use 2 trimmers and joist hangers etc, but if I used this scabbing/sistering method you are showing in the vid will that be up to code in NC? Also if the section of jost thats missing is 2 feet. how long do the sistered boards need to be? Granted we have no peir or support to rest the boards on so they would just be sistered on both sides of the cut joist. LMK thanks!
I think it will hold up just fine....since you have to add all that extra strength on each side just run your new joists extra long, say....2 feet or more on each side. Properly secure everything and it will be 1000% stronger than it currently is. Good luck
haha! "Don't worry, we'll cut that part out". No pun intended
Thanks my friend 😉🤣
Would you use shims if existing joist was actual size and the replacement was nominal?
You could if you want to. But honestly, I don’t see why you would need to bother with that. As long as you are through bolting the repair together, it should be a solid as when the house was built. Good luck.
There are structural rated screws, eg GRK R4, otherwise use nails, also the sister joist should ideally be free of large knots, especially on the edge lol, don't use a piece like in this video, and make sure the jack oist is plumb before jacking, an hydraulic bottle jack may be good to have if you have multiple repairs to do or a second story, that little screw does poorly if it's loaded
Thanks for watching 😊🛠️🛠️
yes, probably an LVL would be best but clear douglas fir for sure.
I would have doubled up or use a piece of steel for extra strength
You can rebuild it stronger than original if you want to. There was no load point above, just basic living room 😊🛠️🛠️
what you did there is not "sistering". that is a "scab". a sistered joist is the full length of the joist it goes next to. that is what makes it a "sister".
Great points. Thank you for watching 👍🏼
Liquid nails would be big help hete.
Yes 100% agreed. Construction adhesive in addition to mechanical bolts would be fantastic 🛠️🛠️