I upgraded from an A5 to a A7 S line almost a year ago with 41k miles and I've been watching your channel religiously to keep up to date on common maintenance and issues to look out for so I can keep the car running perfectly well into the future. Thank you for all of this info!
Great video. Just got the p10a4 today in my 2017 Q7 while driving the tail of the dragon. Checked codes right away with torque pro but had no service to look it up. Kept driving as nothing else seemed off for the rest of the day. Thankfully had no noticeable issues other than a code. Won’t be driving now until fixed. Really appreciate these videos. Makes it so easy to work on and helps so many people.
I replaced my bypass valve with an aftermarket one, Hudson brand around 3 months ago. Changed it due to multiple codes for “regulating flap for intake air” p01A8,p01A4. The same codes have came back with the new valve. I Checked resistance on the original valve it was 24-25ohms, checked the Hudson valve currently installed and it was 8.4 ohms. I’m seeing 4.9V on the wiring harness. Debating if I should get an oem bypass valve😢. Also noticed some oil around the o-rings and mating surfaces on the bypass valve, did you have that as well?
Pcv maybe ? I just had my bypass valve go out but along my research I found a few people with similar issues on replacing and having it go out in just a few months. Signs of oil can be related to an underlying problem most commonly a Pcv on its way out.. that’s just what I’ve read on other peoples experiences with finding oil around the bypass valve. I recommend Doing your own research though and comparing your findings with others to pin point the problem before throwing money in to it.
I have a question. I need to replace my bypass valve. I will do it myself. But do I need to relearn it through a computer? Because with some cars you need to reset some values by using a device / computer connected to the car.
I see this is an old video... But are there any audible signs of this part failing? Just did a ton of work including, complete timing chain, tensioner, guides, pulleys and tensioners up front. Had a noisy engine, obvious up front, and the chain rattle drivers side upper rear chain rattle. Found what looked like chain stretch. replaced everything. after getting everything back together, still have a noise seemingly from under the Supercharger. No more chain rattle, pulley system quiet like new. No codes, no misses, nothing. dropped engine again, ouch, to tear it all apart again. Changed the upper sprocket just in case. Pulled the SC, replaced a 1 year old PCV. pulled vlave cover, rockers and everything were fine. Motor back in, still noise. This noise seems to be a clicking when the engine is at low RPM. It's only noticeable on the drivers side in confined spaces. It doesn't get louder with load. Completely befuddled!! 50k mile, 2016, oil changed every 6 months. No exaust leaks, barely carbon build up in the valves. Doesn't burn oil, and car was never abused. Purchased it a year and a half old, with 8000 miles CPO. I figure by now, you have seen and heard it all, any thoughts? thanks
Hi! great video. A5 3.0T Audi. I am having P10A0, P10A4, P10A6, P10A7 and P10A8, SUPPOSEDLY on a new bypass valve. What do you think? Does it need any scanner adaptation?
Would you need to do a bypass valve adaptation when replacing this part? If so would obd11 be able to complete this would you know? Many thanks and love watching your videos as I have a b8 s4 and always resort to your videos for help and advise
Thanks for the instructions. I also had the P10A400 & P10A000 codes sets off and did the checks like you did. Came back with bypass value reading around 6 ohms. Can you provide the link of the bypass valve from FCPEuro or other site or part #?
Hello I have a 2017 Audi Q7 prestige and I have a question. I have a pop sound when I hit the gas and it's like my car kind of hiccups when it Change to second gear. NO CODES. I went to the dealer and they said the popping sound is my supercharge bypass valve getting stuck. I been looking for that part but I don't see it or do you have anything that sounds familiar to what I'm talking about and the part I'm looking for? Thanks
I've never experienced what you are hearing, but if it is the bypass valve then that is the part I changed in this video. Very simple. You can find the part new on fcp euro or ecs tuning
Hey. Great video. I have a 2011 S4. Car stalled randomly and I am setting P0652, P10A6, and P10A4. The car will crank and not start. I let it sit for a week and it started with no codes. Then on road test it stalled and same codes appeared. Any ideas???
Thanks for the response. I can understand the P10A4 and P10A6 as a result of the Bypass Valve but I do not see how it could cause a crank no start. Also with the bypass valve unplugged the P0652 is still present.
Yeah I have tried to start car with it unplugged as I thought that maybe the bypass valve was pulling down the 5v. Reference. No luck. I also popped a different PCM in just to see if those codes were present and they are. I am assuming I have a wiring issue. A short possibly bringing down my 5v reference voltage
That is very possible. If you have a friend with a 3.0t, I'd suggest swapping their bypass valve into your engine just to rule out that being the issue.
My sq5 just threw a P10A4 this weekend so I opened the valve up to check the gears and function per your video- thanks btw- and I need a new one. Would you recommend biting the bullet and going OEM or is the Hudson valve on ECS just as good?
Hello, i am getting P2262 code Vehicle is a Porsche Cayenne S hybrid with 3.0Tfsi engine from audi Can this code be related to bypass valve? The car drives fine just lacks power while accelerating. But i can still reach 0ver 200km/hr easily. Everything seems fine with the engine and no noise from the supercharger.
I have a 2011 Audi s4. It is showing p10a7 clogged/dirty flap. Do you think that’s because my bypass valve is dirty? Should I just buy a new one? Do you know a part number for those?
Hey I have the same code on my 2014 Audi s5 b8.5 and it also says don’t exceed 4,000 rpms on the dash should I replace the bypass valve and will that help me get my throttle back to normal when I push on the gas or should I look into something else
Im stage 2+ and just did e40 for the first time. After a few pulls yesterday after getting e40 i got EPC light on and limp mode, when i pulled up i got that code. Would the e40 cause this being a first time and the car getting use to it? Or maybe it’s a sign of mine going bad? Cleared the code and a few pulls later and a day at the dragstrip havent got any code.
Good afternoon my friend, how are you ? I have a 3.0 V6 just like yours. And I have this error, how did you manage to solve the problem? I need to repair my valve.
@@AudiC7Owners would this cause the motor to completely shut down? Mine shut down while driving and never started after that. Had to get it towed. I think my fuel pressure sensor may be faulty and sending the wrong signals to the computer as why it shut down
My bypass valve is working fine but I'm thinking of getting one to have on standby for when the inevitable happens! Every one I see available though (from the EU), they all say that the ecu needs updating? Anyone know if this is true? My guess it just needs to go through a basic adaptation. I also have a genuine VCDS cable though, if it can be done through that then it'll be easy enough I suppose.
Hey I have a Audi A6 3.0 tdi 2013, and I have a problem when I'm driving from standstill doesen't matter if its on a hill or flat ground sometimes my car tends to shake and sometimes it goes without an issue. according to the mechanic my ESP Electronic is dead, basically the car does not know where its located on the flat ground or on the hill and it turns on abs esp automatically when driving off and shakes. Could the ESP be the issue I need second opinions as its an expensive repair just to make sure I'm getting the right thing done. (Multitronic transmision) The second issue I'm having is the engine not heating up or the cabine on colder weathers even if it does heat up after a long time, the temperature drops down in a second, I've replaced the thermostat as that is normally the problem but no difference. Is there by anychance a second thermostat? thank you
@@AudiC7Owners sorry i just got home from holidays, i checked the car for error codes nothing relating the issue comes up, i just tested the car drove it for about half hour with 7 c outside temperature. Oil temp went up to 70°c but drops as I drive, the coolant temp went from 45°c to 52°c and stays there which is I'm guessing too low. So I think the thermostat is probably not working
I got a P2754 code (transmission fluid cooler controller circuit low) and my 2012 c7 has been in the shop for a week. Do you know anything about this because I can’t find any information
@@AudiC7Owners I was testing my pins 4 and 5 and got about 13 ohms. I can't find any information regarding this measurement and tolerance aside from your video, where did you find this info?
@@AudiC7Owners I was able to remove the motor and spray some electronic cleaner inside and get it into spec. I believe there is some carbon/gunk that gets built up on the commutator that raises resistance. Something to keep in mind for a cheaper fix
Hello!! was wondering if you've ever had oil problems? I have a 2012 A6 3.0t, I replaced my valve cover gaskets, my trans is only 4 years old. I have to put 1 quart of oil in the car every 2 weeks because I'm losing oil that fast.😅 I'm not leaving puddles, I'm not shooting smoke. If i drive the car hard I seem to use up more oil. I don't lose oil if the car just sits, and I don't lose much oil if I drive the car in normal mode. I drove the car in S mode for a day and 3/4 of my oil was gone at the end of the day ( I had just filled it that morning) I realize things are hard to diagnose without seeing the car in person just thought id ask if anyone has experienced something similar as i can't seem to figure out what the issue is. :/
Um I need your help can I shoot you an email again I got a few issues the biggest it seems right now though is I have a low voltage supply however my battery is charging just fine 14.7 I run a sub and amp and I also got some oil leaks on the bottom of my car maybe you know why I would down there
I upgraded from an A5 to a A7 S line almost a year ago with 41k miles and I've been watching your channel religiously to keep up to date on common maintenance and issues to look out for so I can keep the car running perfectly well into the future. Thank you for all of this info!
Thanks for the support man! 🙏🏻
Same hey C7 owner can you make a discord?
I have too many social media's to manage as it is lol
Great video. Just got the p10a4 today in my 2017 Q7 while driving the tail of the dragon. Checked codes right away with torque pro but had no service to look it up. Kept driving as nothing else seemed off for the rest of the day. Thankfully had no noticeable issues other than a code. Won’t be driving now until fixed. Really appreciate these videos. Makes it so easy to work on and helps so many people.
I'm just happy they are useful! Good luck with the repair 🤘🏼
I replaced my bypass valve with an aftermarket one, Hudson brand around 3 months ago. Changed it due to multiple codes for “regulating flap for intake air” p01A8,p01A4. The same codes have came back with the new valve.
I Checked resistance on the original valve it was 24-25ohms, checked the Hudson valve currently installed and it was 8.4 ohms. I’m seeing 4.9V on the wiring harness. Debating if I should get an oem bypass valve😢. Also noticed some oil around the o-rings and mating surfaces on the bypass valve, did you have that as well?
Pcv maybe ? I just had my bypass valve go out but along my research I found a few people with similar issues on replacing and having it go out in just a few months. Signs of oil can be related to an underlying problem most commonly a Pcv on its way out.. that’s just what I’ve read on other peoples experiences with finding oil around the bypass valve. I recommend Doing your own research though and comparing your findings with others to pin point the problem before throwing money in to it.
Can we get some info on tracing the wiring? Can’t find anything on the forums or groups and new bypass valve didn’t solve the issue.
I have a question. I need to replace my bypass valve. I will do it myself. But do I need to relearn it through a computer? Because with some cars you need to reset some values by using a device / computer connected to the car.
No you do not. Just a parts swap.
I see this is an old video...
But are there any audible signs of this part failing?
Just did a ton of work including, complete timing chain, tensioner, guides, pulleys and tensioners up front. Had a noisy engine, obvious up front, and the chain rattle drivers side upper rear chain rattle. Found what looked like chain stretch. replaced everything. after getting everything back together, still have a noise seemingly from under the Supercharger. No more chain rattle, pulley system quiet like new. No codes, no misses, nothing.
dropped engine again, ouch, to tear it all apart again. Changed the upper sprocket just in case. Pulled the SC, replaced a 1 year old PCV. pulled vlave cover, rockers and everything were fine. Motor back in, still noise.
This noise seems to be a clicking when the engine is at low RPM. It's only noticeable on the drivers side in confined spaces. It doesn't get louder with load. Completely befuddled!!
50k mile, 2016, oil changed every 6 months. No exaust leaks, barely carbon build up in the valves. Doesn't burn oil, and car was never abused. Purchased it a year and a half old, with 8000 miles CPO.
I figure by now, you have seen and heard it all, any thoughts?
thanks
Hi! great video. A5 3.0T Audi. I am having P10A0, P10A4, P10A6, P10A7 and P10A8, SUPPOSEDLY on a new bypass valve. What do you think? Does it need any scanner adaptation?
Would you need to do a bypass valve adaptation when replacing this part? If so would obd11 be able to complete this would you know?
Many thanks and love watching your videos as I have a b8 s4 and always resort to your videos for help and advise
I didn't have to do any adaptation 👍🏼
Thanks for the instructions. I also had the P10A400 & P10A000 codes sets off and did the checks like you did. Came back with bypass value reading around 6 ohms. Can you provide the link of the bypass valve from FCPEuro or other site or part #?
I don't know it off the top of my head. You can find the part number on ecs tuning.
Hello I have a 2017 Audi Q7 prestige and I have a question. I have a pop sound when I hit the gas and it's like my car kind of hiccups when it Change to second gear. NO CODES. I went to the dealer and they said the popping sound is my supercharge bypass valve getting stuck. I been looking for that part but I don't see it or do you have anything that sounds familiar to what I'm talking about and the part I'm looking for? Thanks
I've never experienced what you are hearing, but if it is the bypass valve then that is the part I changed in this video. Very simple. You can find the part new on fcp euro or ecs tuning
Hey. Great video. I have a 2011 S4. Car stalled randomly and I am setting P0652, P10A6, and P10A4. The car will crank and not start. I let it sit for a week and it started with no codes. Then on road test it stalled and same codes appeared. Any ideas???
All of your codes are pointing to a bad bypass valve.
Thanks for the response. I can understand the P10A4 and P10A6 as a result of the Bypass Valve but I do not see how it could cause a crank no start. Also with the bypass valve unplugged the P0652 is still present.
Unplug your bypass valve & try to start your car. Let me know what happens. Don't rev it.
Yeah I have tried to start car with it unplugged as I thought that maybe the bypass valve was pulling down the 5v. Reference. No luck. I also popped a different PCM in just to see if those codes were present and they are. I am assuming I have a wiring issue. A short possibly bringing down my 5v reference voltage
That is very possible. If you have a friend with a 3.0t, I'd suggest swapping their bypass valve into your engine just to rule out that being the issue.
My sq5 just threw a P10A4 this weekend so I opened the valve up to check the gears and function per your video- thanks btw- and I need a new one. Would you recommend biting the bullet and going OEM or is the Hudson valve on ECS just as good?
I don't have any experience with the non oem units so I couldn't say. If you go oem, id order from fcp euro if they have it
@@AudiC7Ownersthanks man!
Hello, i am getting P2262 code
Vehicle is a Porsche Cayenne S hybrid with 3.0Tfsi engine from audi
Can this code be related to bypass valve?
The car drives fine just lacks power while accelerating. But i can still reach 0ver 200km/hr easily. Everything seems fine with the engine and no noise from the supercharger.
I have a 2011 Audi s4. It is showing p10a7 clogged/dirty flap. Do you think that’s because my bypass valve is dirty? Should I just buy a new one? Do you know a part number for those?
Check all of your vacuum lines to your intake & supercharger first. If those all look good then you may need a new bypass valve.
Hey I have the same code on my 2014 Audi s5 b8.5 and it also says don’t exceed 4,000 rpms on the dash should I replace the bypass valve and will that help me get my throttle back to normal when I push on the gas or should I look into something else
What other codes do you have?
Im stage 2+ and just did e40 for the first time. After a few pulls yesterday after getting e40 i got EPC light on and limp mode, when i pulled up i got that code. Would the e40 cause this being a first time and the car getting use to it? Or maybe it’s a sign of mine going bad? Cleared the code and a few pulls later and a day at the dragstrip havent got any code.
E40 shouldn't have caused it. I think you are fine if it doesn't come back
Good afternoon my friend, how are you ? I have a 3.0 V6 just like yours. And I have this error, how did you manage to solve the problem? I need to repair my valve.
Did you watch the video? I show step by step how I fixed it
I have code P10A600. Potentiometer regulating flap for intake air - signal too low.
Could this solve my issue?
Potentially! It is a common code when a bypass valve fails
@@AudiC7Owners would this cause the motor to completely shut down? Mine shut down while driving and never started after that. Had to get it towed. I think my fuel pressure sensor may be faulty and sending the wrong signals to the computer as why it shut down
My bypass valve is working fine but I'm thinking of getting one to have on standby for when the inevitable happens! Every one I see available though (from the EU), they all say that the ecu needs updating? Anyone know if this is true? My guess it just needs to go through a basic adaptation. I also have a genuine VCDS cable though, if it can be done through that then it'll be easy enough I suppose.
The car should Auto-calibrate it when you turn it on
@@AudiC7Owners Good to know bud, cheers for the reply.
Hey I have a Audi A6 3.0 tdi 2013, and I have a problem when I'm driving from standstill doesen't matter if its on a hill or flat ground sometimes my car tends to shake and sometimes it goes without an issue. according to the mechanic my ESP Electronic is dead, basically the car does not know where its located on the flat ground or on the hill and it turns on abs esp automatically when driving off and shakes. Could the ESP be the issue I need second opinions as its an expensive repair just to make sure I'm getting the right thing done. (Multitronic transmision)
The second issue I'm having is the engine not heating up or the cabine on colder weathers even if it does heat up after a long time, the temperature drops down in a second, I've replaced the thermostat as that is normally the problem but no difference. Is there by anychance a second thermostat?
thank you
To my knowledge there is not a second Thermostat on that car for your hvac system.
Have you scanned the car for codes?
@@AudiC7Owners sorry i just got home from holidays, i checked the car for error codes nothing relating the issue comes up, i just tested the car drove it for about half hour with 7 c outside temperature. Oil temp went up to 70°c but drops as I drive, the coolant temp went from 45°c to 52°c and stays there which is I'm guessing too low. So I think the thermostat is probably not working
I got a P2754 code (transmission fluid cooler controller circuit low) and my 2012 c7 has been in the shop for a week. Do you know anything about this because I can’t find any information
We actually have a video exactly about that.
ua-cam.com/video/pRMSKLgIi9Q/v-deo.html
@@AudiC7Owners You love coming to the rescue don’t you. Hahaha
😂😂😂
Hey i have the same codes and i can also hear a slight raddle.. could that raddle be from the bypass valve?
I can't diagnose sounds without being there in person unfortunately
Have you seen the ported snorkel? It’s around $300. I wonder if it’s worth it.
I haven't, but I can't imagine it would make a huge difference
Does new valve need to be programmed or is it plug and play?
Plug & play 🤘🏼
@@AudiC7Owners I was testing my pins 4 and 5 and got about 13 ohms. I can't find any information regarding this measurement and tolerance aside from your video, where did you find this info?
@@T3slanik from an Audi tech
@@AudiC7Owners I was able to remove the motor and spray some electronic cleaner inside and get it into spec. I believe there is some carbon/gunk that gets built up on the commutator that raises resistance. Something to keep in mind for a cheaper fix
Would a p10A6 cause this problem?
It absolutely could
So my 13 a6 turned off on me while I was driving I get that p10a4 code can that cause my car not to start
Yes it can
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/P10A4
Okay thanks
Hello!! was wondering if you've ever had oil problems? I have a 2012 A6 3.0t, I replaced my valve cover gaskets, my trans is only 4 years old. I have to put 1 quart of oil in the car every 2 weeks because I'm losing oil that fast.😅 I'm not leaving puddles, I'm not shooting smoke. If i drive the car hard I seem to use up more oil. I don't lose oil if the car just sits, and I don't lose much oil if I drive the car in normal mode. I drove the car in S mode for a day and 3/4 of my oil was gone at the end of the day ( I had just filled it that morning) I realize things are hard to diagnose without seeing the car in person just thought id ask if anyone has experienced something similar as i can't seem to figure out what the issue is. :/
We actually have a video on oil loss, have you watched that?
It could be any number of things (bad pcv, bad piston rings, etc)
@@AudiC7Owners I'll take a look, Im losing oil fast and i just can't figure out what the problem is i'll look for that video now appreciate it 👍🏽
I used the bg stuff as well. Didn't make any real difference
@@Pwnulolumad I traded my A6 back in November for a 2020 Stinger GT 🤷🏽♂️😂
I have a P10A6 is that in the same area?
Yes. Check all your wires to make sure none are damaged as well
Can you post a video of you driving the car
Why? What exactly are you looking for?
@@AudiC7Owners Would be nice seeing pov videos on your channel too!
As in seeing from my perspective while driving? Or seeing me while driving? I'm not much to look at 😂
@@AudiC7Owners As in from your perspective lol
i got the p10A7 what does that mean?
hey i got the same code. was wondering if u figured out what it was?
Um I need your help can I shoot you an email again I got a few issues the biggest it seems right now though is I have a low voltage supply however my battery is charging just fine 14.7 I run a sub and amp and I also got some oil leaks on the bottom of my car maybe you know why I would down there
Shame can't replace the motor. Such a waste throwing the whole thing away
My guy.