Well done senior. That’s me on the deck of the Niña reproduction made for the film 1492 we were asked to come on board to do a living history presentation. The bathroom situation I agree it is much easier to take the whole costume off I also find it airs out the chemise after being in hot weather a wonderful break and cools you down.
Fantastic video!! I knew almost nothing of this. Hip roll for men?? I’m so behind on my research! A single trunk hose made a whole suit? They must’ve been FABULOUS, if cumbersome 🤣 I appreciate this so very much, especially the discussion of using the restroom in these clothes, since (as you mentioned) so many people are so afraid to talk about it. Thank you so much for another valuable video ♥️
Mathew, just came across this video. I have been using the jumpsuit method for b-room breaks for years, but this was still inspirational in the whole method. I am keeping this in my fav's, and will guide others to it. The gather the shirt as a hip roll, honestly, I had not done that that way. I am so used to smoothing out my shirt tails, then I have a separate hip roll (that we have discussed, before). I so much love when my brain is on target with the experts, as you are. Thanks.
Thank you for this video! The length of the shirts had always seemed an odd choice for me, but rolling it up onto the hips makes so much sense, it helps with the visual proportions and probably helps keep the "pants" in place! And personal style choices! That is a great way to put it :)
absolutely! In my experience, particularly with doublets which have picadil strips that are snipped along the edge of the collar or silk bindings, the shirt collar covering the doublet collar keeps the facial hair from destroying the edge of the collar. Long ago, when I started wearing these suits a lot, I didn't make the shirt collars tall enough to cover the doublet collar and my stubble continually shredded the bindings and picadil strips.
Good sir, it was my pleasure to see you and to listen to your fine voice explaining the process of getting dressed. I hope that this will find you in good health and I wish you the very best 2021. I wonder if there where a way to wear only the throusers and a shirt if you where doing hard labour or chasing a Spanish ship in the West Indies. Your most faithful servant Ulf Lidsman, Esq.
This is the first time I've seen a reference to men's underbreeches for this era. Much more sensible than the idea of tucking one's shirt tails. Are there more than just the one extant pair that you mention?
The further one goes into the 17th century, the more common they are. They seem to follow the same basic principle though, a single-layer linen garment, cut in a similar shape to the outer layers. There is another 17th century pair from around 1650 (I think?) that looks more like a pair of briefs rather than long boxers, but the principle is the same. We have many depictions of men in the early 16th century...particularly Italy, wearing a brief-like undergarment. In the 18th century, you have a slimmer-fitting single layer under-pant that follows a cut that is similar to the outer layer breeches.
Interesting that the breeches are cross-laced. I'm guessing that spiral lacing would wind up lopsided - it's too short a distance to do the staggered-eyelet thing.
That's just how I dress them for ease of use. When I have aglets, I actually go through each set of holes twice which produces horizontal bars rather than Xs or Vs. There is also some evidence that with earlier styles...16th century, there would be multiple points used at the front waist, occupying two holes at a time, rather than one long lace as I have used here. I can tell you from experience in wearing these suits constantly and on a daily basis, the most secure is the style resulting in those horizontal bars. The fastest (with aglets) is usually an X-style lacing (double spiral essentially). There really isn't a one-size-fits-all lacing pattern for all clothing. Each person and each garment would have their own unique methods. Trying to ascribe hard rules to any community of people rather denies the tendency for individuals to do their own thing.
Splendid video! The details are very interesting - the fly is a lovely design and the use of the ‘bum roll’ to get a little extra volume. I’d never seen the points at the back in action - so discrete yet very decorative if they come into view. Was this a Europe-wide dress style? Wool for the outer garments and linen for the underwear, I imagine? Thanks for a great video.
There were, of course, regional differences, but for the most part, people were tying their tops and bottoms together as well as using wool and linen as the most common combination of textiles. People above a certain social class were permitted to wear more silk and also, textile choices would vary a little bit from season to season, though not the way we do now with linen reserved only for summer, etc. Linen was a constant for undergarments as well interior structuring materials and linings.
How much would social group influence the actual garment? Obviously in England the Puritans wore plainer fabrics and colours, but did they wear the same basic garments as everyone else? That sort of collar I definitely associate with Puritans, Dutch Calvinists, Roundheads later in the 17th century but with the English Cavaliers, the French and others from people from Catholic Europe I tend to think of collars that were much stiffer and more elaborate, not quite the ruff of Elizabethan times but something closer.
Is the only difference between a doublet and the jerkin/jacket in this video that the jerkin goes over the doublet? I thought it was only that jerkins were sleeveless and doublets weren’t. Or did that change over time?
honestly love clothing from this time period, I just like the general silhouette, though sadly this amount of layering is not very practicable in the Southern US heat I live in cept maybe in winter Also, major facial hair goals
I think it really depends on how you make it. Layering throughout the old world was standard...even in hot places like Spain and Italy. For example, in warm moist climates, you often see more linen used in the undergarments like shirts and shifts. The increased volume has two effects, it allows more airspace under the outer layers to maintain a cooler interior as well as increases the amount of fabric against the skin to absorb perspiration. In early America, it is interesting to see that English colonists made a significant effort to modify their clothing for the heat and humidity when they came to Virginia. In contrast, there is little evidence that Spaniards changed anything when they came to Florida during the same period. Personally, I have lived in the AZ desert as well as here in Virginia and I can speak from experience, the humidity changes everything. In AZ I was able to wear quite normal layering for Spanish clothing of the early 1600s but in Virginia those same outfits are much more uncomfortable. Once I sweat through a shirt though, as long as I keep moving, a breeze comes through the outer wool layers cools me down inside the clothing. The worst fabrics to wear in humid, hot weather are silk and cotton. Wool, especially if it is plushy but porous is best...with the linen beneath, it acts a little bit like an air conditioner. The linen wicks the moisture from the body and the wool, being a protein fiber, doesn't want to hold onto the moisture. If the fabric is porous enough, the air just evaporates the sweat. I have even had a couple of occasions where I've gotten cold wearing a wool suit over linens in hot weather. Rare, but it has happened. It is counterintuitive to our modern way of thinking about comfort but It is so much worse to remove layers and expose more of your skin to the sun and ambient temperature. I have been known to put another layer on when it is too hot, just to put more distance between my body and the local weather. Records show that temperatures on the rise...but also records can show that similar temperatures were present in history -- so I search for history's answers to climate and dress. Knowing what they did in the past is how I choose my solutions for today. If I think like a modern person, I tend to get it all wrong.
Hahah....Well, you gotta get REALLY quick the buttons. The ties are pretty easy. Once you get used to the jumpsuit concept...you can get it off of you in about 30 seconds. About the same time a modern work coverall would need to come off. Weirdly, I get this question a lot!
@themodernmakermathewgnagy215 I mean we all poop, and brother all them clothes look dangerous. And I'm sure we've all had the "I have to pee real bad and I'm running out of time, and I'm struggling with one button and its milliseconds away from disaster" is it weird to ask about this. Probably so. But still a valid question, I reckon. Them clothes do look cool, though. I'm thinking of trying to make a pair of clothes like that just for fun. I don't know how to sew, or Taylor, anything. But life's an adventure, right? Anyways. God be with you brother, and thanks for the video and response.
En español moderno, si...pero en los antiguos libros, se dicen Ropilla para lo que hoy, se llama chaqueta. La palabra chaqueta viene a español de inglés, yo creo. Ademas, las palabras en antiguo parecen como se cambian lo que quierían decir más rápidamente que nosotros hago hoy dia.
This was SO informative and a joy to watch! I’m starved for 17th century dress content - let alone 17th century MENSWEAR. Can’t wait for more videos!
There will definitely be more menswear videos. Season 4 of The Modern Maker Workroom is devoted to making an entire man's outfit! Starts in January!
Who would have thunk 1610's mens' fashions were kinda hot. Woof! Thanks for the great video and demonstration, so incredibly fun to watch. ❤
This channel is such an incredible and much-needed resource
Well done senior. That’s me on the deck of the Niña reproduction made for the film 1492 we were asked to come on board to do a living history presentation.
The bathroom situation I agree it is much easier to take the whole costume off I also find it airs out the chemise after being in hot weather a wonderful break and cools you down.
The lace on my breeches are also just long enough that I never have to unlace them, and that saves SO much time.
sooo difficult to find men's clothing video to show my homschool kids. so grateful for this video
Fantastic video!! I knew almost nothing of this.
Hip roll for men?? I’m so behind on my research!
A single trunk hose made a whole suit? They must’ve been FABULOUS, if cumbersome 🤣
I appreciate this so very much, especially the discussion of using the restroom in these clothes, since (as you mentioned) so many people are so afraid to talk about it. Thank you so much for another valuable video ♥️
Mathew, just came across this video. I have been using the jumpsuit method for b-room breaks for years, but this was still inspirational in the whole method. I am keeping this in my fav's, and will guide others to it.
The gather the shirt as a hip roll, honestly, I had not done that that way. I am so used to smoothing out my shirt tails, then I have a separate hip roll (that we have discussed, before). I so much love when my brain is on target with the experts, as you are. Thanks.
Just discovered your channel. Excellent content.
You've got a new subscriber!
Thank you for this video! The length of the shirts had always seemed an odd choice for me, but rolling it up onto the hips makes so much sense, it helps with the visual proportions and probably helps keep the "pants" in place! And personal style choices! That is a great way to put it :)
Ooo, and I'm guessing the shirt collar folded over also protects the doublet collar and saves it from needing so much cleaning, etc?
absolutely! In my experience, particularly with doublets which have picadil strips that are snipped along the edge of the collar or silk bindings, the shirt collar covering the doublet collar keeps the facial hair from destroying the edge of the collar. Long ago, when I started wearing these suits a lot, I didn't make the shirt collars tall enough to cover the doublet collar and my stubble continually shredded the bindings and picadil strips.
I love to draw characters in historical clothing and to see how they work and how they were put on is so so helpful ! Thank you for the great video ❤
AHH I've been trying to find indepth men's wear videos for a long time thank you and God bless
This was wonderful. I'll be watching more of them.
Beautiful. The breeches are so fun!
Nice presentation
Good sir, it was my pleasure to see you and to listen to your fine voice explaining the process of getting dressed. I hope that this will find you in good health and I wish you the very best 2021.
I wonder if there where a way to wear only the throusers and a shirt if you where doing hard labour or chasing a Spanish ship in the West Indies.
Your most faithful servant
Ulf Lidsman, Esq.
Thank God you’ve done this!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Excellent!
This is the first time I've seen a reference to men's underbreeches for this era. Much more sensible than the idea of tucking one's shirt tails. Are there more than just the one extant pair that you mention?
The further one goes into the 17th century, the more common they are. They seem to follow the same basic principle though, a single-layer linen garment, cut in a similar shape to the outer layers. There is another 17th century pair from around 1650 (I think?) that looks more like a pair of briefs rather than long boxers, but the principle is the same. We have many depictions of men in the early 16th century...particularly Italy, wearing a brief-like undergarment. In the 18th century, you have a slimmer-fitting single layer under-pant that follows a cut that is similar to the outer layer breeches.
I make monsters for a living- this is so civilised lol. Really nice video ad informative presentation. thanks.
Stumbled across this and found it to be very informative. Thanks for the video!
Insane how trends have changed over time. That period was a different world entirely
So nice! love how it fits to you 🙂
Ik u won’t c this but Thank you. I spent quite awhile looking for someone talking about these pants
Of course I'll see it! and you're welcome!
Interesting that the breeches are cross-laced. I'm guessing that spiral lacing would wind up lopsided - it's too short a distance to do the staggered-eyelet thing.
That's just how I dress them for ease of use. When I have aglets, I actually go through each set of holes twice which produces horizontal bars rather than Xs or Vs. There is also some evidence that with earlier styles...16th century, there would be multiple points used at the front waist, occupying two holes at a time, rather than one long lace as I have used here. I can tell you from experience in wearing these suits constantly and on a daily basis, the most secure is the style resulting in those horizontal bars. The fastest (with aglets) is usually an X-style lacing (double spiral essentially). There really isn't a one-size-fits-all lacing pattern for all clothing. Each person and each garment would have their own unique methods. Trying to ascribe hard rules to any community of people rather denies the tendency for individuals to do their own thing.
Such a look! ❤
Splendid video! The details are very interesting - the fly is a lovely design and the use of the ‘bum roll’ to get a little extra volume. I’d never seen the points at the back in action - so discrete yet very decorative if they come into view. Was this a Europe-wide dress style? Wool for the outer garments and linen for the underwear, I imagine? Thanks for a great video.
There were, of course, regional differences, but for the most part, people were tying their tops and bottoms together as well as using wool and linen as the most common combination of textiles. People above a certain social class were permitted to wear more silk and also, textile choices would vary a little bit from season to season, though not the way we do now with linen reserved only for summer, etc. Linen was a constant for undergarments as well interior structuring materials and linings.
Fabuloso, hermoso, gracias
How much would social group influence the actual garment? Obviously in England the Puritans wore plainer fabrics and colours, but did they wear the same basic garments as everyone else?
That sort of collar I definitely associate with Puritans, Dutch Calvinists, Roundheads later in the 17th century but with the English Cavaliers, the French and others from people from Catholic Europe I tend to think of collars that were much stiffer and more elaborate, not quite the ruff of Elizabethan times but something closer.
Is the only difference between a doublet and the jerkin/jacket in this video that the jerkin goes over the doublet? I thought it was only that jerkins were sleeveless and doublets weren’t. Or did that change over time?
honestly love clothing from this time period, I just like the general silhouette, though sadly this amount of layering is not very practicable in the Southern US heat I live in cept maybe in winter
Also, major facial hair goals
I think it really depends on how you make it. Layering throughout the old world was standard...even in hot places like Spain and Italy. For example, in warm moist climates, you often see more linen used in the undergarments like shirts and shifts. The increased volume has two effects, it allows more airspace under the outer layers to maintain a cooler interior as well as increases the amount of fabric against the skin to absorb perspiration.
In early America, it is interesting to see that English colonists made a significant effort to modify their clothing for the heat and humidity when they came to Virginia. In contrast, there is little evidence that Spaniards changed anything when they came to Florida during the same period.
Personally, I have lived in the AZ desert as well as here in Virginia and I can speak from experience, the humidity changes everything. In AZ I was able to wear quite normal layering for Spanish clothing of the early 1600s but in Virginia those same outfits are much more uncomfortable.
Once I sweat through a shirt though, as long as I keep moving, a breeze comes through the outer wool layers cools me down inside the clothing. The worst fabrics to wear in humid, hot weather are silk and cotton. Wool, especially if it is plushy but porous is best...with the linen beneath, it acts a little bit like an air conditioner. The linen wicks the moisture from the body and the wool, being a protein fiber, doesn't want to hold onto the moisture. If the fabric is porous enough, the air just evaporates the sweat. I have even had a couple of occasions where I've gotten cold wearing a wool suit over linens in hot weather. Rare, but it has happened.
It is counterintuitive to our modern way of thinking about comfort but It is so much worse to remove layers and expose more of your skin to the sun and ambient temperature. I have been known to put another layer on when it is too hot, just to put more distance between my body and the local weather.
Records show that temperatures on the rise...but also records can show that similar temperatures were present in history -- so I search for history's answers to climate and dress. Knowing what they did in the past is how I choose my solutions for today. If I think like a modern person, I tend to get it all wrong.
Is the collar a new one with the pulled thread work you showed in a photo?
Oh no! It is one that I made a few years ago. I'm fast...but not that fast. I've been doing nothing by making videos and course materials lately.
Never wait until you are desperate to go to the loo!
Buttons were very expensive, valuable and desirable.
Ohh don't feel bad....all our doublets fit tighter since Covid. ;)
How to you take an emergency dump in that?
Hahah....Well, you gotta get REALLY quick the buttons. The ties are pretty easy. Once you get used to the jumpsuit concept...you can get it off of you in about 30 seconds. About the same time a modern work coverall would need to come off.
Weirdly, I get this question a lot!
@themodernmakermathewgnagy215 I mean we all poop, and brother all them clothes look dangerous. And I'm sure we've all had the "I have to pee real bad and I'm running out of time, and I'm struggling with one button and its milliseconds away from disaster" is it weird to ask about this. Probably so. But still a valid question, I reckon. Them clothes do look cool, though. I'm thinking of trying to make a pair of clothes like that just for fun. I don't know how to sew, or Taylor, anything. But life's an adventure, right? Anyways. God be with you brother, and thanks for the video and response.
looking good, but not practical if you eat chilli. :)
Did a man really strip down Everytime he had to go to the bathroom? Did they have outhouses?
They'd use chamberpots, or latrines if they were rich enough to have one in their house.
En español Jacket es chaqueta no ropilla.
En español moderno, si...pero en los antiguos libros, se dicen Ropilla para lo que hoy, se llama chaqueta. La palabra chaqueta viene a español de inglés, yo creo. Ademas, las palabras en antiguo parecen como se cambian lo que quierían decir más rápidamente que nosotros hago hoy dia.