in case anyone is wondering, this is Dumont Smart Strip Advanced. The main active ingredient in it is benzyl alcohol, that's why it's low VOC and it does indeed smell like almonds. You could buy benzyl alcohol directly if you need to do a lot, it would be less for a gallon than you pay for a quart of this, but wouldn't have the gel texture (which comes from added kaolin clay). You should still wear gloves and P95 respirator, though it's much less toxic than many other things. Low concentrations are even used in cosmetics and medications.
You mean only use alcohol benzyl to strip the paint?? I have a full house to remove the paint from doors, staircase, door frames and baseboards, so yes I am looking for an efficient yet inexpensive solution.
@@WilliamLovesBaseball yes, just using benzyl alcohol should do the same thing, I would try a small amount in inconspicuous area first to make sure it works with your paint and surface type
Thank you! I had to strip the inside of a bathroom cabinet and was super concerned about fumes. The video was easy to understand and really helped me out.
Thank you for suing Smart Strip Advanced! We are so glad it made your removal process easier and we wish you the best with your future removal projects!
I appreciate that the camera person zoomed in on the spot where he gouged the wood with the knife. Why wouldn't he have cut into the paint in a less noticeable area? Keeping the original varnish might seem like a nice idea but it will look much better after it's all stripped and a new varnish applied.
I remember 20 years ago using zip strip to remove paint from woodwork and it was such a slow, difficult messy process. This is so much better, thanks for posting
Hey guys. At 34 I just bought my first home. I grew up watching you and it's going to be an honor to use the lessons you have taught to fix up my old home. I hope this works on the plaster walls too. It's like the place was rented out so there's 13+ layers of paint not to imagine all the patched holes I can still see clearly.
I am interested in how your project went. I am helping a friend with her rental property renovations and I really want to peel the paint however there are a lot of layers as well.
You would go broke trying to buy enough paint stripper to do all the walls in your house, so don’t attempt it. It would be cheaper to just remove the wall board (or lath & plaster) and install wallboard.
@@CogentConsult That's actually what I decided to do. (My house was built in 1930. I think it's an old Sears/Aladdin kit home anyways so everything including the ductwork because it originally had a gravity furnace needs to be modernized.)
You have clearly never had to deal with the US government in regards to lead in your house. They are relentless, he made a much smaller cut than they typically do and only from one. I had to have my new house inspected (to even be allowed to move in) and there are deep gouge marks all over my home how in equally obnoxious places. There excuse for that is "If we took it form the side or bottom it is less likely to contain all the potential layers of paint." It's unfortunate but It's just how it's done, no other way to truly know it's lead free.
In the same boat, new house, beautiful 150+ year old hardwood trim and the previous owners just slathered it all with cheap ugly paint. (should be a crime) Been making slow work of if. I was hesitant to use nasty chemical based strippers around my family but seeing how crazy-fast the VOc free works, let's just say I had already made the order half way through the video. Thanks for the useful tips as always~
Probably the same method. But they were using a product called Peel Away. He was using the green can, which is Peel Away #7, meant for newer paints without lead. If there was lead present, he would have used Peel Away#1 (in the red can), but #1 works with both.
Very helpful! I’m wanting to try & salvage what I can of the history of my 1908 home. I don’t even want to know how many layers of paint are on there. I won’t mind it removing any varnish. I want to stain it to match the floors. :D
Why test for lead by making a visible cut into the wood at eye level in the middle of the side trim? Wouldn't it be better to do it in a less conspicuous spot like the side edge that no one can see?
If you already have some of the paint removed, know how thick the paint is, or know what material is under, you can do this without damaging the wood. You might get a scratch, but he didn't remove wood, he removed multiple layers of paint, that's why it looked solid. My old house has like 5 layers of paint, some double and triple coated. I can score pretty deep and never even touch the sheet rock behind it. I will likely have to just remove the whole wall due to lead paints.
Great catch, and exactly right. Even the folks filming and editing noticed the damage, and interestingly made a point to show it. Goto @6:23 when they are showing the "after" images. The camera person focuses in on the gouge that this guy left in the woodwork, after the homeowner clearly indicated that she wished to varnish and show the grain. Her heart probably sank when he took a utility blade to her woodwork. A professional would absolutely take a sample from an inconspicuous spot.
Great video folks! I just bought a house build in 1832 and I have a ton of paint to strip. I will test, but I am certain there is lead. How does this stripping procedure change and what protective equipment should I use when lead is present? Thanks again for another great video!
Waiting to see what answer provided for this because my house was built in 1928 and I know it has some lead thats been painted over with 8 different coats because it has some very thick paint on it, but I would like to try this.
It’s kind of a bummer that This Old House doesn’t respond to legit questions...still an awesome show! I have tested my paint - it contains lead! I will post a video on my channel “Do & Brew” in a few months as part of a historic home renovation I am currently working on - check it out!!!
@@DoAndBrewDIY The video was uploaded over a year ago. Imagine the number of comments every single video gets; it would be impossible to review all of them, let alone respond. Any UA-cam channel with a decent amount of followers, reviews comments only on the first day or two after uploading. So, if you expect a reply, I would suggest you email or ask in the comments section of a current video. By the way, a house built in 1832? You are so lucky 😊
Howdy Alanca Abyssal!!! You are probably right ... my channel is not that big yet so I am able to reply to all comments and questions - but sometimes it takes me a week or so! Yes - the old house is pretty cool ... needs a ton of work ... which we started a couple months ago and will start posting videos soon!
Great video. Ok so I like the former white trim. It flows with the other room in view. I like the red wall too. But hey she wants to do all this work. She has a vision.
One thing to consider, old houses like this might have dozens of layers of paint on this beautiful trim. My house is 130 years old and I don’t think anyone ever stripped off the paint entirely. So I’m keeping my window trim the same color, but removing about an eighth of an inch of paint from the last century
Citristrip contains NMP (N-Methylpyrrolidone), not fun to work with either -- though in this case alcohol would have worked JUST fine since all the paint above the varnish was latex.
and for good measure, here is a literal slice into your precious woodwork in the most noticeable, eye-level spot. We wouldn't want to test for lead at the top, bottom, or side where an accidental slice would go unnoticed!
yeah, the first thing i noticed right away, the original varnish was gone, as with all paint strippers. Actually her first idea of using alcohol was way better :) just some more rough scrubbing in some places, but still got the varnish as wanted :) i wonder if its scripted and they missed it in post, because i would kick that guy after removing the original after clearly stating otherwise
Yeah, there is no such thing as a chemical stripper that can only remove the top layer and leave the lower ones pristine and intact! It's a funny but unrealistic concept, a little like saying you want to swim in the pool but not get wet.
I get they are going to repaint the wall a different color. But I need to strip kitchen cabinets in place, and the frames are up against a newly painted kitchen wall. I wanted to see how they protected the wall--what kind of tape works best, and they didn't even talk about this, and at 6:38 you can see in the video that paint is still on those small edges. I'm having a hard time getting any info, so I guess I'll ask at my hardware store what they suggest.
How long should the VOC set on the paint before peeling off the laminated paper? Also, what kind of gloves to you use to strip paint and can you buy all of these products at Lowes or Home Depot ??
Thank you for the video well done. I also like the recap and wish a comment about how to approach the job had there been lead paint detected Thanks guys.
Looked like he damaged the trim by cutting into to it with his knife to test for lead. If he absolutely had to make a cut he should have cut the baseboard instead of making the cut at eye level.
@@Acaidia easy patch? how are you going to patch this to put on a clear varnish? No wood filler will match the grain. He should have done this above the header board or way down low by the floor on the side edge.
@@SilverShadow2LWB well he knew all along that he was going to paint the trim anyway so it wouldn't matter in this case. Obviously he would have cut into a less noticeable area if he was planning on showing the bare wood.
Wow that paint stripper worked out great nice video I'm unfortunately sanding by hand to get rid of horrible old gloss some of which is particularly resilient to sanding and my finger tips are rough and sore
Legend has it, she's still stripping paint to this day. But in seriousness, after realizing how long it takes, she more than likely hired someone to do it, or just decided to paint over the old paint.
Just replace the casing and moulding with new wood --- Much easier and cheaper depending on how much paint stripper you need. Especially a case like this where the old woodwork has no significant detail that can't be easily recreated.
@@samperkins1768 Good point, and probably the path of least resistance when you're dealing with pine, but isn't some woodwork made from old-growth woods in unusual or expensive species that are worth saving for their grain character and durability?
@@hijodelaisla275 Yes, there are many times in which the wood and detail is unique and does make sense to strip and refinish. I'm just blown away when people go through crazy lengths to strip pine or fir that has little to no detail and can easily be picked up cheaply from home depot, such as replicas of 'colonial base'.
You guys did a good job explaining this alternative to the mess of stripping. Testing the pain for lead was good and informative. However, you really dropped the ball and didn't answer one major question, "What if my paint comes out positive for lead"?, (such is my case)? What do I do and what are my alternatives? Obvious question, never addressed. So what do I do?
You just burn the house down and move…. In actuality the regulations that were made for Painters in dealing with lead don’t apply to homeowners. If you use a stripper like this and just make sure to collect the paint well. Maybe have plastic on floor to catch any that fall. Just don’t sand the paint and get the dust in the air and you’ll be fine.
Seal it in a plastic bag & throw it in the trash. It’s pretty much inert unless you eat it or breathe in the dust. Small children especially should be kept out of the area. PPE and dust abatement/collection is recommended. As the homeowner, you get to decide how far you want to go with this, but a contractor will generally be required to wear a bunny suit & a respirator with the appropriate cartridge.
There is another method which is more gentle on the wood, fewer steps, and lets you paint immediately: Speedheater™Infrared Paint Remover's infrared rays need to heat the paint only to 400-600℉ to separate all layers of paint & varnish from the wood. Regular heat guns heat it to 1000℉. With the Speedheater™ method there are no messy chemicals, no paper, no waiting time for it to work, and no extra step to neutralize or wash the surface. With chemical strippers, the wood soaks up the chemical and the water scrub. When woods gets wet, it must dry completely or new varnish or paint will fail. All that trim work is going to take many buckets of expensive chemicals.
@This Old House: A dust mask will not protect you from vapors. I don't see any dust being produced, so what exactly are you trying to protect your "workers" from? It would probably be a good idea to put together an episode that helps to educate homeowners on how to stay safe, i.e., when to use an N95 mask, when to use a half mask respirator with an organic vapor cartridge, when nitrile gloves are necessary, etc...
I am curious what one does if they had found lead. Wouldn't it be the same method since stripping all layers of wood this way would be safer than sanding?
Mauro is LOUSY. She told him she wanted to keep the varnish, he did not, no explanation. He then goes on to say that you cannot keep the varnish, when in fact you CAN (apparently his paint-stripping know-how is limited to the products sold at Home Depot or Lowes). I'd never even ask this guy for an estimate, let alone give him a job.
using a heat gun is the best method, the shellac just liquifies under heat and floats the paint off, the lead is not a concern as a vapour, but u should wear a proper respirator because of the chemical vapours.
What did you learn? Did you learn how to check whether paint is latex or oil-based? Did you learn whether you really need to test for lead in latex paints? Did you learn where to notch the wood, if you really had to test for lead? Did you learn how to strip latex paint off oil-based primers or off non-shellac varnishes without damaging the primer or varnish? No? Then I wonder what you learned.
It looks like they are using one of the Dumond paint remover products. I recommend you go to Dumond's website and carefully read all of the information about the products and which of their products you need. I read some of the information for Peel Away 1, which is used to remove lead paints. They say the ave time for it to work is 72 hours, and can take as long as 5-7 days before you can scrape and peel the paint away. Then you have to wash it and in some cases neutralize it. Then you need to wait for the wood to dry out. I just stripped some outside wood beams with a Cobra Speed Heater. It was not easy, but IMHO, way better than going this route. The devil is always in the details.
I just watched a vid where the person used a heat gun and it looked easy but this looks even easier and less harmful. I've got a full flat to do this with
Thanks for the helpful video. Two questions: How do you get the paint off of the edge where it meets the wall without stripping the wall paint as well? Secondly, if there is lead, what is the procedure?
you might be able to use masking paint to get to the edge or you could sand the edge next to the wall. they make stripper for lead paints like Lead-out. but i wouldn't want to mess with sanding lead paint I would encapsulate then paint over it or get experts the remove it.
Actually a heat gun works great if you teach the customer how to do it correctly, just like you taught her how to do the stripper method. You will need to sand the wood with either heat gun or stripper method which was not shown. So in reality, the heat gun method when done properly is faster and more cost effective. As a last little note, when doing a lead test, don't cut into the wood where it is noticeable, cut into the side of the trim or down low near the baseboard.
Heat guns cause huge quantities of fumes when that paint gets hot. I know; I've done lots of furniture refinishing, but always outdoors. Even then, I pick a breezy day. After just an hour or two the fumes will make your head spin, so be careful. But yes, a heat gun does a great job.
I will add a little additional information to your point for those interested, if you do not mind. Summarizing all the knowledge that I have come across about removing lead paint by heating methods, I can impart the following points: • Lead paint becomes an issue if heated above 700 degrees Fahrenheit, where lead fumes will start to form. One article from This Old House references a temperature of 752 °F as a more precise figure. • If the heat gun's operating temperature is lower than lead's volatilization temperature, there should be little to no risk of creating fumes. My heat gun, for instance, only has 'high' and 'low' settings, so in this situation one would need a digital temperature reader when using the gun, or at the very least, to just use the lowest setting and patiently wait. I have accidentally burned the paint and seen fumes on occasion, so I know that they can heat the target material to an unwanted state. • A better alternative, as mentioned elsewhere in the comments, would the Speedheater Infrared Paint Stripper, which heats up to 400 °F and is able to soften thick layers of paint within seconds. It also works well for softening hard window putty without breaking the glass, and as such is a popular tool for restoration professionals. • There are also restoration specialists who use a steaming method, which is great as it creates zero dust. Professionals use steam boxes or even portable steamers on site, coupled with a putty knife or scraper. Another suggestion might be to try a wallpaper steamer, which I will be trying myself. The only issue would be to check if the wood type beneath would not be damaged during steaming, but otherwise it would be fine to work with after letting it dry thoroughly. Overall, depending on the methods employed, sequestering a work area, wearing proper respirators, working "wet" and/or dust-free, and using a HEPA shop vacuum where appropriate are some of the main pieces of advice for DIYers tackling lead paint removal. Hope this helps!
@@nikolaiv1138 Thank you! We just moved into a 107-year-old house and I really want to remove the paint from the gumwood paneling and trim. I am tempted to buy the Speedheater, but have only their own claims to go by as to how safe it is and if it is difficult to use correctly. I keep hoping that This Old House does a review of infrared paint strippers.
The tub says up to 24 hours depending on your situation. I left on for 24 hours with paper and it was too long. I'm doing 2nd coat without paper right now and 3 hours seemed to do the trick.
use a different stripper, put on Organic Vapor/P100 respirator, turn on HEPA air scrubber, keep the kids out of the house for a while, dispose of the waste in dedicated location
What's with the worry about lead? It won't turn into a vapor when it's stripped, just bag it up and deal with the paint accordingly, she lives in a big city I'm sure the city has means of dealing with lead paint cheap and easily.
As a kid in the 1970s we had Nitromors, proper paint stripper, it used to sting your hands if it splashed on them.but, boy it removed the paint well. Years later we have modern eco friendly Nitromors, I doubt it would remove a paint stain from the floor, it's a watered down gel & totally useless.
I've been using kleen strip stripper and citristrip and it's taking forever and giving me a headache, can I put the stripper you used on top of what I used?
I'm doing this right now. Some fool painted the beams before we bought the house. I am on my 2nd coat right now because I left the paper on too long. The test patch where the bare wood is now present is worth the effort. Better than wrapping the beams too because these are solid wood and have a nice patina.
Wow! Awesome video! I have a small office where the chair rail was recently painted over!!! And I hate it! Even though I am a novice at DIY projects, after watching this video I am going to give it a try. However, I have one question. How long does the laminate paper need to stay on? Thanks in advance!
you don't necessarily need the paper, any plastic film will work, or even just leaving it exposed this particular stripper can stay on from 1 to 24 hours, but you really need to test it on a small inconspicuous area first, to know what exactly will work on your finish
in case anyone is wondering, this is Dumont Smart Strip Advanced. The main active ingredient in it is benzyl alcohol, that's why it's low VOC and it does indeed smell like almonds. You could buy benzyl alcohol directly if you need to do a lot, it would be less for a gallon than you pay for a quart of this, but wouldn't have the gel texture (which comes from added kaolin clay). You should still wear gloves and P95 respirator, though it's much less toxic than many other things. Low concentrations are even used in cosmetics and medications.
Thank you! i was just going to ask.
You're a lifesaver
You mean only use alcohol benzyl to strip the paint?? I have a full house to remove the paint from doors, staircase, door frames and baseboards, so yes I am looking for an efficient yet inexpensive solution.
@@WilliamLovesBaseball yes, just using benzyl alcohol should do the same thing, I would try a small amount in inconspicuous area first to make sure it works with your paint and surface type
It is lovely to see someone embracing a colorful house.
"chipper brush" was so cute. I like this dude. 💜
Thank you! I had to strip the inside of a bathroom cabinet and was super concerned about fumes. The video was easy to understand and really helped me out.
Thank you for suing Smart Strip Advanced! We are so glad it made your removal process easier and we wish you the best with your future removal projects!
They sued yall after this? That’s messed up
😂@@braedenhenderson2358
@@braedenhenderson2358 Is this true? I’d like to see that information as well; can you direct me to that source? Thanks!
*using
Most unfortunate typo the company could have made LOL
I appreciate that the camera person zoomed in on the spot where he gouged the wood with the knife. Why wouldn't he have cut into the paint in a less noticeable area? Keeping the original varnish might seem like a nice idea but it will look much better after it's all stripped and a new varnish applied.
dude could have cut the side of the window trim but chose to cut a chunk of casing right at eye level.. smh.
All he had to do was scrape some off from the side toward the bottom out of view.
“Camera person”
"I can do this all day."
Oh sweetheart, you will.
This is the best comment on youtube
Accurate af 😂
This made me laugh out loud.
Take it off !!!!!
@@joshdavis1513shut up
I remember 20 years ago using zip strip to remove paint from woodwork and it was such a slow, difficult messy process. This is so much better, thanks for posting
"Do you want to do this whole room?" Asks in fear.
LOL
😃😃
MrNightpwner
😂😂😂😂
"No, just the lower 4' - does that make sense?"
Whenever I have a bad day, I read these comments and instantly feel better
Hey guys. At 34 I just bought my first home. I grew up watching you and it's going to be an honor to use the lessons you have taught to fix up my old home. I hope this works on the plaster walls too. It's like the place was rented out so there's 13+ layers of paint not to imagine all the patched holes I can still see clearly.
I am interested in how your project went. I am helping a friend with her rental property renovations and I really want to peel the paint however there are a lot of layers as well.
You would go broke trying to buy enough paint stripper to do all the walls in your house, so don’t attempt it. It would be cheaper to just remove the wall board (or lath & plaster) and install wallboard.
@@CogentConsult That's actually what I decided to do. (My house was built in 1930. I think it's an old Sears/Aladdin kit home anyways so everything including the ductwork because it originally had a gravity furnace needs to be modernized.)
I love no and low VOC products. So much nicer for indoor uses!!!!
If they only worked.
@@hijodelaisla275are u saying this doesn't work?
This old house is just the best
“It’s almost like the opposite of painting”.....um, that’s exactly what it is 😂
Amanda Kaye 🤣🤣🤣that's exactly what I was thinking 🤣🤣🤣
KFJDICEHDIFJRNT STOP
She didn’t say “almost like.” She said “It’s, like,”
Word of advice for lead test kits. To confirm they are working just keep some lead solder handy.
5:37 I don't want to do any damage to the wood yet a minute ago you took a gouge out of her trim.
Julio F
He only made a scratch
Plus the trim was going to get sanded afterwards
You have clearly never had to deal with the US government in regards to lead in your house. They are relentless, he made a much smaller cut than they typically do and only from one. I had to have my new house inspected (to even be allowed to move in) and there are deep gouge marks all over my home how in equally obnoxious places. There excuse for that is "If we took it form the side or bottom it is less likely to contain all the potential layers of paint." It's unfortunate but It's just how it's done, no other way to truly know it's lead free.
@@NWinnVR exactly. Not like not going to redo house if it's old anyway. My home built 1969 I would rather live than die of lead poisoning.
Julio F he just cut threw the paint Wich was getting removed anyway
@@EpicHeavyStuff which is why they included the shot of the trim post paint removal, specifically on the spot with a big gouge and wood missing?
What happens when you have lead paint? What would be the the steps of getting rid of the lead paint?
In the same boat, new house, beautiful 150+ year old hardwood trim and the previous owners just slathered it all with cheap ugly paint. (should be a crime) Been making slow work of if. I was hesitant to use nasty chemical based strippers around my family but seeing how crazy-fast the VOc free works, let's just say I had already made the order half way through the video.
Thanks for the useful tips as always~
💜🎨
Dude was like tf is almond extract
You have to squeeze 1 million almonds to get extract
Lol
Wtf is orange juice, it’s orange drink - Dave chapelle
It may have cyanide?
Cyanide has an almond taste
🤣😂
I am curious of how the presentation would have proceeded if the paint had contained lead.
Probably the same method. But they were using a product called Peel Away. He was using the green can, which is Peel Away #7, meant for newer paints without lead. If there was lead present, he would have used Peel Away#1 (in the red can), but #1 works with both.
@@paulkenny5052 What's makes #1 and #7 different?
@@AsakuraClan he was actually using Smart Strip. Says so in the description.
@@paulkenny5052 he was actually using Smart Strip. Says so in the description.
@@paulkenny5052 Thank you!
Very helpful! I’m wanting to try & salvage what I can of the history of my 1908 home. I don’t even want to know how many layers of paint are on there. I won’t mind it removing any varnish. I want to stain it to match the floors. :D
Did u try it?
Why test for lead by making a visible cut into the wood at eye level in the middle of the side trim? Wouldn't it be better to do it in a less conspicuous spot like the side edge that no one can see?
They were probably going to remove it either way it just would have been a different method
Yes, they should have removed the test sample from an inconspicuous place. This isn't the first time I've seen this type of an issue.
If you already have some of the paint removed, know how thick the paint is, or know what material is under, you can do this without damaging the wood. You might get a scratch, but he didn't remove wood, he removed multiple layers of paint, that's why it looked solid.
My old house has like 5 layers of paint, some double and triple coated. I can score pretty deep and never even touch the sheet rock behind it. I will likely have to just remove the whole wall due to lead paints.
Great catch, and exactly right. Even the folks filming and editing noticed the damage, and interestingly made a point to show it. Goto @6:23 when they are showing the "after" images. The camera person focuses in on the gouge that this guy left in the woodwork, after the homeowner clearly indicated that she wished to varnish and show the grain. Her heart probably sank when he took a utility blade to her woodwork. A professional would absolutely take a sample from an inconspicuous spot.
Great video folks! I just bought a house build in 1832 and I have a ton of paint to strip. I will test, but I am certain there is lead. How does this stripping procedure change and what protective equipment should I use when lead is present? Thanks again for another great video!
Waiting to see what answer provided for this because my house was built in 1928 and I know it has some lead thats been painted over with 8 different coats because it has some very thick paint on it, but I would like to try this.
I guess no answers
It’s kind of a bummer that This Old House doesn’t respond to legit questions...still an awesome show!
I have tested my paint - it contains lead! I will post a video on my channel “Do & Brew” in a few months as part of a historic home renovation I am currently working on - check it out!!!
@@DoAndBrewDIY The video was uploaded over a year ago. Imagine the number of comments every single video gets; it would be impossible to review all of them, let alone respond. Any UA-cam channel with a decent amount of followers, reviews comments only on the first day or two after uploading. So, if you expect a reply, I would suggest you email or ask in the comments section of a current video. By the way, a house built in 1832? You are so lucky 😊
Howdy Alanca Abyssal!!! You are probably right ... my channel is not that big yet so I am able to reply to all comments and questions - but sometimes it takes me a week or so! Yes - the old house is pretty cool ... needs a ton of work ... which we started a couple months ago and will start posting videos soon!
4:50
Lady: "I could do this all day"
Guy: "Well guess what? we got a whole room to do"
haha!
Great video.
Ok so I like the former white trim. It flows with the other room in view. I like the red wall too. But hey she wants to do all this work. She has a vision.
One thing to consider, old houses like this might have dozens of layers of paint on this beautiful trim. My house is 130 years old and I don’t think anyone ever stripped off the paint entirely. So I’m keeping my window trim the same color, but removing about an eighth of an inch of paint from the last century
PLEASE! If you take a sample for lead testing, do it on the side or corner near the floor where no one will see a big slit in the wood.
Exactly. He does it right at eye level, lol. In the "strike zone" as I like to call it.
"big slit in the wood" @6:23 amazing that film crew made a point to show the damage.
Mauro is awesome. Keep I’m coming back!
but his work is dong, listen what she wanted and what he did, 2 different things, so yeah, you can say he is awesome in not listening to the client xD
Dam that is awesome. I have to do my room today. I can't put it off any longer. That's what I'm getting to strip my paint. Thank u very much!
Citris strip has worked pretty good for me in place of the old caustic stuff I used to use
guardduck25
That Marine stripper feels great in the eyes.
Citristrip contains NMP (N-Methylpyrrolidone), not fun to work with either -- though in this case alcohol would have worked JUST fine since all the paint above the varnish was latex.
love these shows and this guy is awesome
"We wanted to take the paint off but not the original varnish off" *removes varnish with stripper*
and for good measure, here is a literal slice into your precious woodwork in the most noticeable, eye-level spot. We wouldn't want to test for lead at the top, bottom, or side where an accidental slice would go unnoticed!
Lmao i thought the same thing
yeah, the first thing i noticed right away, the original varnish was gone, as with all paint strippers. Actually her first idea of using alcohol was way better :) just some more rough scrubbing in some places, but still got the varnish as wanted :) i wonder if its scripted and they missed it in post, because i would kick that guy after removing the original after clearly stating otherwise
Yeah, there is no such thing as a chemical stripper that can only remove the top layer and leave the lower ones pristine and intact! It's a funny but unrealistic concept, a little like saying you want to swim in the pool but not get wet.
I get they are going to repaint the wall a different color. But I need to strip kitchen cabinets in place, and the frames are up against a newly painted kitchen wall. I wanted to see how they protected the wall--what kind of tape works best, and they didn't even talk about this, and at 6:38 you can see in the video that paint is still on those small edges. I'm having a hard time getting any info, so I guess I'll ask at my hardware store what they suggest.
How long should the VOC set on the paint before peeling off the laminated paper? Also, what kind of gloves to you use to strip paint and can you buy all of these products at Lowes or Home Depot ??
I bought it on Amazon, but I saw a You Tube video where the guy bought it at Home Depot.
Thank you for the video well done. I also like the recap and wish a comment about how to approach the job had there been lead paint detected Thanks guys.
Agreed! If there is lead… then what??
Looked like he damaged the trim by cutting into to it with his knife to test for lead. If he absolutely had to make a cut he should have cut the baseboard instead of making the cut at eye level.
true but its an easy patch. probably just did it there for the presentations sake.
Eye level even. I agree, do it on the edge if nothing else. If no camera, do it on the top edge that will never be seen.
@@Acaidia easy patch? how are you going to patch this to put on a clear varnish? No wood filler will match the grain. He should have done this above the header board or way down low by the floor on the side edge.
@@SilverShadow2LWB well he knew all along that he was going to paint the trim anyway so it wouldn't matter in this case. Obviously he would have cut into a less noticeable area if he was planning on showing the bare wood.
He blatantly destroyed that wood trim.!
Wow that paint stripper worked out great nice video I'm unfortunately sanding by hand to get rid of horrible old gloss some of which is particularly resilient to sanding and my finger tips are rough and sore
Wouldn't it be great if someone invented something - like a sock with fingers - to cover your hands and protect them?
What are we going to do if there’s a presence of lead on the test kit? Thanks..
Remove the trim
Legend has it, she's still stripping paint to this day.
But in seriousness, after realizing how long it takes, she more than likely hired someone to do it, or just decided to paint over the old paint.
Or just plugged the heater gun back in.
@@voodooinc7935 Like a sensible person.
Just replace the casing and moulding with new wood --- Much easier and cheaper depending on how much paint stripper you need. Especially a case like this where the old woodwork has no significant detail that can't be easily recreated.
@@samperkins1768 Good point, and probably the path of least resistance when you're dealing with pine, but isn't some woodwork made from old-growth woods in unusual or expensive species that are worth saving for their grain character and durability?
@@hijodelaisla275 Yes, there are many times in which the wood and detail is unique and does make sense to strip and refinish. I'm just blown away when people go through crazy lengths to strip pine or fir that has little to no detail and can easily be picked up cheaply from home depot, such as replicas of 'colonial base'.
You guys did a good job explaining this alternative to the mess of stripping. Testing the pain for lead was good and informative. However, you really dropped the ball and didn't answer one major question, "What if my paint comes out positive for lead"?, (such is my case)? What do I do and what are my alternatives? Obvious question, never addressed. So what do I do?
You just burn the house down and move….
In actuality the regulations that were made for Painters in dealing with lead don’t apply to homeowners. If you use a stripper like this and just make sure to collect the paint well. Maybe have plastic on floor to catch any that fall. Just don’t sand the paint and get the dust in the air and you’ll be fine.
@@mick2spic nailed it. You could even create some plastic walls to "quarantine" the area you're working in.
@@mick2spic Thank you
Seal it in a plastic bag & throw it in the trash.
It’s pretty much inert unless you eat it or breathe in the dust.
Small children especially should be kept out of the area.
PPE and dust abatement/collection is recommended. As the homeowner, you get to decide how far you want to go with this, but a contractor will generally be required to wear a bunny suit & a respirator with the appropriate cartridge.
@@mick2spic Thank you
Mauro noticed more than just the homeowner's woodwork! 7:50
hahaha i see what you did there
I think you spelled lothario wrong.
There is another method which is more gentle on the wood, fewer steps, and lets you paint immediately: Speedheater™Infrared Paint Remover's infrared rays need to heat the paint only to 400-600℉ to separate all layers of paint & varnish from the wood. Regular heat guns heat it to 1000℉. With the Speedheater™ method there are no messy chemicals, no paper, no waiting time for it to work, and no extra step to neutralize or wash the surface. With chemical strippers, the wood soaks up the chemical and the water scrub. When woods gets wet, it must dry completely or new varnish or paint will fail. All that trim work is going to take many buckets of expensive chemicals.
Let's see how we do the small edge that is up against the wall. What happens when the stripper gets on the wall?
I need more videos from him
6:24 Nice shot of the obvious damage you did to the wood instead of testing the paint in an inconspicuous place.
Just a little wood filler, and it's gone.
Picture frame will do the trick
It's getting painted over, paint would fill a void that small easily. Dunno why the comments are so focused on it.
She said she wants the room yellow and the wood varnished, so it will still be visible.
I could make the argument that varnish is simply un-pigmented paint but I wont. ;)
How long did you let it cure?
6:00 they really didn't need to walk back into that room.
I would love to see more segments with Mauro Henrique
@This Old House: A dust mask will not protect you from vapors. I don't see any dust being produced, so what exactly are you trying to protect your "workers" from? It would probably be a good idea to put together an episode that helps to educate homeowners on how to stay safe, i.e., when to use an N95 mask, when to use a half mask respirator with an organic vapor cartridge, when nitrile gloves are necessary, etc...
I wonder if the guy wears the same mask when he spreads methylene chloride. :P
Bad information video :/
I agree. This was damn irresponsible.
You completely ignored the entire discussion about the no VOC in the paint stripper
I hope your wearing a mask these days
I am curious what one does if they had found lead. Wouldn't it be the same method since stripping all layers of wood this way would be safer than sanding?
Mauro is great! Awesome choice this old house
Mauro is LOUSY. She told him she wanted to keep the varnish, he did not, no explanation. He then goes on to say that you cannot keep the varnish, when in fact you CAN (apparently his paint-stripping know-how is limited to the products sold at Home Depot or Lowes). I'd never even ask this guy for an estimate, let alone give him a job.
using a heat gun is the best method, the shellac just liquifies under heat and floats the paint off, the lead is not a concern as a vapour, but u should wear a proper respirator because of the chemical vapours.
What would need to be done if it was positive for lead?
Love Mauro. Always learn a lot.
What did you learn? Did you learn how to check whether paint is latex or oil-based? Did you learn whether you really need to test for lead in latex paints? Did you learn where to notch the wood, if you really had to test for lead? Did you learn how to strip latex paint off oil-based primers or off non-shellac varnishes without damaging the primer or varnish? No? Then I wonder what you learned.
It looks like they are using one of the Dumond paint remover products. I recommend you go to Dumond's website and carefully read all of the information about the products and which of their products you need. I read some of the information for Peel Away 1, which is used to remove lead paints. They say the ave time for it to work is 72 hours, and can take as long as 5-7 days before you can scrape and peel the paint away. Then you have to wash it and in some cases neutralize it. Then you need to wait for the wood to dry out. I just stripped some outside wood beams with a Cobra Speed Heater. It was not easy, but IMHO, way better than going this route. The devil is always in the details.
She said she didn't want to remove the original varnish and the guy went ahead and did it...
"We wanted to take the paint off but not the original varnish off" and he proceeded to strip everything including varnish. lol
7:39 There's is no way to remove the paint without removing the varnish
8:50 This old house has got terrible grammar
So, next video, "How to safely strip lead paint from woodwork"? Cheers, David
Yes. I would like to see that one.
Still looking for this one..
+1
Same process but more protective gear ?
What would you do if it would contain lead?
Great technique/product.
Really? is he your cousin or something?
I can do this old day.
Mauro: giggles, guess what...you have all room to do. 😂
Mauro Is the man!
@@zz77z7z7
Calm down
2:13 dude pulls out a joint 😂
I just watched a vid where the person used a heat gun and it looked easy but this looks even easier and less harmful. I've got a full flat to do this with
Hi, what brand remover is used at this video?
smart strip by dumond
Thanks for the helpful video.
Two questions: How do you get the paint off of the edge where it meets the wall without stripping the wall paint as well?
Secondly, if there is lead, what is the procedure?
you might be able to use masking paint to get to the edge or you could sand the edge next to the wall.
they make stripper for lead paints like Lead-out. but i wouldn't want to mess with sanding lead paint I would encapsulate then paint over it or get experts the remove it.
Smart strip works on Post 1980 houses
Actually a heat gun works great if you teach the customer how to do it correctly, just like you taught her how to do the stripper method. You will need to sand the wood with either heat gun or stripper method which was not shown. So in reality, the heat gun method when done properly is faster and more cost effective. As a last little note, when doing a lead test, don't cut into the wood where it is noticeable, cut into the side of the trim or down low near the baseboard.
A heat gun is not safe to use on lead paint.
Heat guns cause huge quantities of fumes when that paint gets hot. I know; I've done lots of furniture refinishing, but always outdoors. Even then, I pick a breezy day. After just an hour or two the fumes will make your head spin, so be careful. But yes, a heat gun does a great job.
@@paulmaxwell8851 Have you tried an infrared paint stripper? They claim it is safe to use on lead paint.
I will add a little additional information to your point for those interested, if you do not mind.
Summarizing all the knowledge that I have come across about removing lead paint by heating methods, I can impart the following points:
• Lead paint becomes an issue if heated above 700 degrees Fahrenheit, where lead fumes will start to form. One article from This Old House references a temperature of 752 °F as a more precise figure.
• If the heat gun's operating temperature is lower than lead's volatilization temperature, there should be little to no risk of creating fumes. My heat gun, for instance, only has 'high' and 'low' settings, so in this situation one would need a digital temperature reader when using the gun, or at the very least, to just use the lowest setting and patiently wait. I have accidentally burned the paint and seen fumes on occasion, so I know that they can heat the target material to an unwanted state.
• A better alternative, as mentioned elsewhere in the comments, would the Speedheater Infrared Paint Stripper, which heats up to 400 °F and is able to soften thick layers of paint within seconds. It also works well for softening hard window putty without breaking the glass, and as such is a popular tool for restoration professionals.
• There are also restoration specialists who use a steaming method, which is great as it creates zero dust. Professionals use steam boxes or even portable steamers on site, coupled with a putty knife or scraper. Another suggestion might be to try a wallpaper steamer, which I will be trying myself. The only issue would be to check if the wood type beneath would not be damaged during steaming, but otherwise it would be fine to work with after letting it dry thoroughly.
Overall, depending on the methods employed, sequestering a work area, wearing proper respirators, working "wet" and/or dust-free, and using a HEPA shop vacuum where appropriate are some of the main pieces of advice for DIYers tackling lead paint removal.
Hope this helps!
@@nikolaiv1138 Thank you! We just moved into a 107-year-old house and I really want to remove the paint from the gumwood paneling and trim.
I am tempted to buy the Speedheater, but have only their own claims to go by as to how safe it is and if it is difficult to use correctly.
I keep hoping that This Old House does a review of infrared paint strippers.
How long would it take to "cure" (?) Without the paper?
The tub says up to 24 hours depending on your situation. I left on for 24 hours with paper and it was too long. I'm doing 2nd coat without paper right now and 3 hours seemed to do the trick.
How long did it cure? A cup of coffee or overnight?
Evelyn Myers 😂😂
cup of coffee. usually 10 to 15 minutes
Is it possible to remove the paint primer using a non VLC stripper?
What do we do if ours testing positive for lead
What would you have done differently if there had been lead?
use a different stripper, put on Organic Vapor/P100 respirator, turn on HEPA air scrubber, keep the kids out of the house for a while, dispose of the waste in dedicated location
he did a great job!
Hello great information! Will this product work for stripping a garage?
What happens if there's lead??
How long we can strip old paint
What about if you find lead paint?
what would you do if there was lead in the paint? do you have to hire a pro then?
What was the brand, and name of the Paint remover product. I need to buy it.
Will this work for out side paint
Ok for the lead test but what would have been done differently if lead was found to be present?
Dumond has a product for lead based paint
"Let me test for lead." Proceeds to gouge hole in the most noticeable part of the entire room.
What do you use on the edge? Same stuff?
If i type in laminated paper into google i get laminated pouches is there a specific name for that type of paper?
Dumond Chemicals Peel Away Laminated Paper
What's with the worry about lead? It won't turn into a vapor when it's stripped, just bag it up and deal with the paint accordingly, she lives in a big city I'm sure the city has means of dealing with lead paint cheap and easily.
@@Boomhauer100 How do you properly dispose if it tests positive?
As a kid in the 1970s we had Nitromors, proper paint stripper, it used to sting your hands if it splashed on them.but, boy it removed the paint well. Years later we have modern eco friendly Nitromors, I doubt it would remove a paint stain from the floor, it's a watered down gel & totally useless.
Do a video on cutting masonry. Thanks
I've been using kleen strip stripper and citristrip and it's taking forever and giving me a headache, can I put the stripper you used on top of what I used?
wipe it with mineral spirits, let it dry and go ahead
Thank you.
What if you found lead??
Inspirational music because it's essentially a marathon event
Well well well I’m here just to read the comments and take notes from the experts !!!
i love this guy omg
Thanks, I want to do this to my ceiling beams but didn't know where to start👍🏾👍🏾
What a mess chemicals even with paper will be upside down.
I'm doing this right now. Some fool painted the beams before we bought the house. I am on my 2nd coat right now because I left the paper on too long. The test patch where the bare wood is now present is worth the effort. Better than wrapping the beams too because these are solid wood and have a nice patina.
@@eco-strip1312 It's designed to be used in vertical applications as well. I'm doing this now. It's not an issue.
At the floor
what if you have to strip lead paint?
What’s the name of the paint stripper
So how do you do it if your lead paint test is positive?
Quietly.
Wow! Awesome video! I have a small office where the chair rail was recently painted over!!! And I hate it! Even though I am a novice at DIY projects, after watching this video I am going to give it a try. However, I have one question. How long does the laminate paper need to stay on? Thanks in advance!
It might be cheaper to replace the rail. If you strip the rail, you will probably damage other surfaces in the room.
@@merryhunt9153 thanks. It’s always good to have options.
you don't necessarily need the paper, any plastic film will work, or even just leaving it exposed
this particular stripper can stay on from 1 to 24 hours, but you really need to test it on a small inconspicuous area first, to know what exactly will work on your finish
Can you get that paper at lowes
Polyurethane before or after paint?