For next time, if you want to retain your stir bar but want to empty the flask completely, just hold another stir bar (or other magnet) on the bottom on the outside of the flask. It should hold the stir bar in place so you can upend the flask completely. Thanks for the fun video!
I did a Scottish Ale and the Brix ended up being 25%!! It was nuts! Fermented out to 0.09 as well, that yeast was a superstar! Wish I remembered what kind I used. I think it was 12 or 13%.
Hi flora, this is neel here from INDIA. Usaly i used to watchg brewing youtube video for hobby purpose. But after seeing this true brewer brewing lover in the rain makes me eager too for brew at my home. Thanks a lot by sharing such lovely video & i came to know the real enjoyable passion about brewing. Stay blessed & be happy. Keep brewing & CHEERS.
tilt the fermenter to get the stir bar to slide to the low side and use one of the magnets you use to measure the volume of the kettle and slide the little devil up and and out, it will follow the magnet to the top so you can grab it, this is how I remove my stir bar from my 1 gallon starter jug before I decant and pitch the yeast.
We just did a double brew day yesterday, 2-10 gallon batches, was rough. we did them back to back instead of the same time, was a long day. Good stuff!
It looked AWESOME brewing in the rain and you did a GREAT JOB!!!. I lived in Olympia above the tsunami warning signs, just in case, and rain is normal. The great food, awesome fishing and the people make handling rain easy. When I visit I go to the Swiss in Tacoma. They have Randalls on the taps and often homebrewers bring in beer to tap. They had vases above the bar for sale. The prices started at 100 grand and went up. I never saw glass as beautiful. I can't remember the name of the artist. There are some very rich people that hang out at the Swiss but you'd never know it. Kelly Clarkson's a regular when she's in town. If the Bohemian malt was under modified, low protein, malt, which is the best malt to use for making ale and lager because it's rich in enzyme content and sugar, the enzymes needed to make ale and lager were rapidly denatured at the temperature used to soak the malt. If the malt was high modified, high protein, homebrew malt it is distillers grade malt containing mainly Alpha. A spec sheet comes with malt and modification and percentage of protein are listed. A spec sheet is used to determine the quality of malt before it is purchased. The conversion rest was skipped during the brew day. Beta is responsible for conversion (140F). Beta converts glucose released by Alpha during liquefaction into complex sugar. Starch doesn't convert to sugar, it's a poly-saccharide, the sugar is in it. Starch is the container that protects the sugar. Alpha liquefies a link in the amylose starch chain and two chains form. The reducing end chain contains sweet tasting, nonfermenting, sugar. The non-reducing end chain is glucose. When conversion occurs secondary fermentation is required and the beer won't need to be primed with sugar or injected with CO2 for carbonating. Beer naturally carbonates during conditioning due to maltotriose, which is complex sugar formed by Beta during conversion. Beta, also, forms maltose, a disaccharide which is responsible for secondary fermentation. To lower ABV use a high rest temperature. Alpha releases more sweet tasting, nonfermenting, sugar and less glucose at high temperature. The best way is to use complex starch, amylopectin. Contained in the starch is limit dextrin. A and B limit dextrin are tasteless, nonfermenting, sugars responsible for body and mouthfeel. The starch is the white particles left in spent mash when the infusion method is used. The starch is heat resistant and to make use of the starch mash is boiled and during dextrinization Alpha releases limit dextrin. The mash jells up at the same time due to pectin. The finest ale and lager are produced from a dextrinous wort, not from sweet tasting, nonfermenting, sugar. The single temperature infusion method is used by distillers and the beer is called distillers beer, the slang is moonshiners beer. The method produces mainly glucose which is responsible for primary fermentation and ABV. Fermentation is quick and yeast will produce a high volume of alcohol due to glucose. The homebrew method skips boiling the mash, conversion, dextrinization, gelatinization and secondary fermentation. Without the actions it is chemically and enzymatically impossible to produce ale and lager but not distillers beer. Rinse out Starsan. Without realizing it chemically imbalanced, unstable, wort was produced, regardless of what homebrew literature mentions about the stuff. If beer requires Starsan there's something wrong. It's best to stay away from water treatment. A brewer never tells anyone what they do with water and malt, especially, to the guy that treats the water for the steam boilers and chillers who may claim he treats brewing water. Brewing water treatment is done in house and it's performed when distilled water is used. Chemicals are only added when something isn't working quite right during the brewing process and enzymes are usually added. Chemicals aren't added the way homebrewers are instructed. For chemicals to work precipitation has to occur which doesn't take place in the single temperature method, except at the wrong time, in the boiler. The enzymes that change the new chemicals formed during precipitation when mash is boiling are denatured by the time the extract enters the boiler. The extract from single temperature infusion lacks vitamins and nutrients beneficial for yeast and people, however, the method creates vitamins and nutrients beneficial for Gram-P and Gram-N bacteria which spoil beer. Gram-P bacteria is lacto, Gram-N is aceto. The method creates chemically imbalanced, unstable, extract which cause issues during fermentation, off flavors and short shelf life associated with homebrew. Skim off hot break as it forms and continue to remove it until it drastically reduces, then, add bittering hops. The extract will be cleaner and hop character will stick better. Less hops are needed. Skim off second break after hops are added. It's best to use hops that have an Alpha, Beta number within a decimal point. The closer the numbers the finer the hop. High Alpha, low Beta hops were discarded or used in hop pillows before homebrewing was invented because they are imbalanced and a brewer won't buy them. When hot break is removed less gunk forms during fermentation. There is a chemical in hot break essential for yeast reproduction but for yeast to absorb the chemical it has to go through other chemicals first which causes off flavors due to a type of autolysis. Besides, when yeast goes for hot break the reproduction stage is long gone and instead of yeast finding complex sugar it goes after the chemicals in hot break and autolysis occurs due to enzymes in yeast. It's financially unwise to extract the essential chemical from hot break because when tests were done there was no indication in the final product that anything was accomplished by hot break. Brewers leaving beer on yeast for weeks makes poor quality beer. Living in Washington it would probably be better if you purchase fresh Malt from Skagit Malting. They sell high quality brewers grade and heirloom malt to homebrewers. Purchase hops from the two main growers out there and use leaf hops. Homebrew ingredients can be old, slack. Stay safe you and yours. Stay parched, my friend.
This is a lot to take in but I copied it into my notepad so I can read paragraph by paragraph :) Thanks so much for the info! I am definitely going to check out Skagit and I usually use Yakima Vallery or Yakima Chief.
I've so done the magnetic stir stick dropped in the fermenter more than once, so it was funny to me that I had to rewind when I didn't catch what happened right off the bat!!
Great video; love Belgian beers! Get you a couple extra stir bars because those things always find a way to sneak in the fermenter. As far as the whirlpool, I slowly crank the speed to max; then let it sit and continue spinning on its own for 10-20 minutes to get a good cone formed in the middle. Having a 90⁰ tube feeding into your ball valve helps as well since it picks stuff up closest to the edge of the kettle rather than pulling in from the center where your hop cone is. I personally use a whirlpool stirrer from NorCal Brewing and a side pickup tube from Spike Brewing. Let us know how the beers turn out! 🍻
Fortunately Sean had an extra one lying around! Thanks for the tips! I never really worried about it because I always bagged my hops but I just listened to a Brulosophy episode about bagging hops and it seems like there is indeed a difference so I'm gunna have to figure out what to do now!
My recent belgian triple was from February. It has OG 1088 without sugar and 1097 with 500g of light amber belgian candi. I usually add my candi at very last days of fermentation rather, than into the cattle. Firstly to catch up as much as i can candi sugar aromas and secondly to agitate my yeast to work little bit more then ,they are preaty much exhausted at fight with 9,5 abv. i've used than Mangrove jack's M-31 belgian triple yeast. Now it's maturated already and quite estery funcy but dry as hell yet super clean and crisp.
Good tips! I've never used Candi sugar before so I just used it like I would table sugar. I can't wait to transfer this today (hopefully if memorial day drinking doesn't get in the way)
Whirlpool works for me and drops the Hop Sludge down in the middle of the vessel and the take-out is to one side. I would prefer to use the whole Hop Flower but they tend to get crushed into dust in an excessivly vacuum sealed thingy. In my past they were an excellent filter bed. The actual velocity of the Whirlpool does not have to be great, it is the wait afterwards which is as important. The 19 Brix you got was about the value I get post Mash, prior to Sparge. I then add 12 Litres Sparge to make up to 29 Litres Pre-Boil volume for 23/4 Litres in the Fermenter. That makes you a wholesome brew. :-D An interesting video. Thank you.
@@FloraBrewing I believe todays whole hop flowers are vacuum sealed very strongly in Mylar bags and frankly finish up containging a high proportion of crushed (very crushed, dust) product. If the more whole of them can be encouraged to settle to the bottom of the boil vessel and some re-circulation allowed which brings the dust bit back to the top it will be captured by the natural filter bed of the hops. It is sometime since I did it but my Grainfather had a pathetic strainer. The holes were small, maybe a millimetre and I swopped this for an arrangement using a fairly wide holed strainer probable 3-4 mm and during the steriliseation phase of running the counterflow coil at the end of boil for several minutes the tiny bits of debris seemed to pass through the strainer and return to the vessel where they seemed to be captured by the hop bed. I think it would have been even better if the boiler had been able to empty by gravity instead of the pump. The only thing going for Pellets is that the sludge is quicker to clean after the brew. You need a roof over your brew area. :-)
You totally just saved us from tossing it! We transferred yesterday but totally forgot about it until this comment haha somehow it stuck in the carboy!
How much of an efficiency difference are you seeing between the bag and your normal screen? Wonder if pressing the grains in your screen while it's draining would help.
For 6 gallons at 85% efficiency your OG should have been about 1.086 by ppg of your fermentables. Assuming you corrected your reading for temperature you really knocked that Trippel out of the park! Myth-Buster: BIAB can give you some impressive efficiencies! ❤️
Mine is ATC too and it’s pretty unreliable compared to a hydrometer. Even if you calculate a wort correction factor it is still off except at a specific temperature. Yeah, PITA.
I thought for years about what to do if I dumped the stir bar into my fermenter and the idea I came up with is to keep an extendable wand magnet sanitized just in case.
Shoulda transferred that second beer into a bag I gave up on whilpools. I own 6 stir bars at least two at any time are in something I cant get at. Thankfully they are cheap.
Call me a simpleton but these were plenty complex for me. I am interested in learning more about multi step mashes but I think I need different equipment.
Flora Brewing not that hard to perform. As the Trappist monks say « keep it plain simple ». For a triple, I would keep that temperature at 145 first for about 45 min and raise it to 162 for the last 15 min. Just need to add some extra heat at the right time. For a Belgian quadruple it would actually be just 30 min at 145 then a good 60 min at 155 to create that full body dark ale. By the way, if you’re a fan of the Belgian-style ales, check out the book « Brew Like a Monk ». You will find a lot about how they brew these special ales. You would be surprised that the priming sugar for a triple should reach a CO2 volume of 3.5 and even more for some darker ales.
For next time, if you want to retain your stir bar but want to empty the flask completely, just hold another stir bar (or other magnet) on the bottom on the outside of the flask. It should hold the stir bar in place so you can upend the flask completely. Thanks for the fun video!
Such a great idea!!
I agree, we finally got the stir bar back today hehe
I did a Scottish Ale and the Brix ended up being 25%!! It was nuts! Fermented out to 0.09 as well, that yeast was a superstar! Wish I remembered what kind I used. I think it was 12 or 13%.
Oh, then I freeze distilled about a gallon of it, Boy Howdy!
Hi flora, this is neel here from INDIA. Usaly i used to watchg brewing youtube video for hobby purpose. But after seeing this true brewer brewing lover in the rain makes me eager too for brew at my home. Thanks a lot by sharing such lovely video & i came to know the real enjoyable passion about brewing. Stay blessed & be happy. Keep brewing & CHEERS.
Thank you so much 🙂
tilt the fermenter to get the stir bar to slide to the low side and use one of the magnets you use to measure the volume of the kettle and slide the little devil up and and out, it will follow the magnet to the top so you can grab it, this is how I remove my stir bar from my 1 gallon starter jug before I decant and pitch the yeast.
Great tip! We're transferring it today and fortunately found a spare magnet for this weekend's starter.
You are so inspiring, love watching you!
Stop it, making me thirsty for a beer and I’m stuck out at work on my break.
Killing it mate, keep up these awesome recipes......and bloopers lol
Thank you!! I'm working from home at the moment and it's really hard not have a lunch beer.
Yeah I can imagine. I’ve got two batches bottled and I recon I’d power through those if I was working at home.
We just did a double brew day yesterday, 2-10 gallon batches, was rough. we did them back to back instead of the same time, was a long day. Good stuff!
Man I've done that before and started at 7am it's rough by the afternoon!
@@FloraBrewing yea, camera died start of the second batch, and we were dragging but after hour 8-9 lol
Love Homebrew Ohio. Great service, friendly staff.
They were a pleasure to work with!
Top video. You can’t beat a double brew day. Two top beers cheers.
I can't wait to drink them this week!
What a beautiful place. Inspiring to make brewhome.
It really is!
I just brewed a black ipa named "a fathom apart"! A fathom is a nautical term for 6ft of depth.
LOVE IT
It looked AWESOME brewing in the rain and you did a GREAT JOB!!!. I lived in Olympia above the tsunami warning signs, just in case, and rain is normal. The great food, awesome fishing and the people make handling rain easy. When I visit I go to the Swiss in Tacoma. They have Randalls on the taps and often homebrewers bring in beer to tap. They had vases above the bar for sale. The prices started at 100 grand and went up. I never saw glass as beautiful. I can't remember the name of the artist. There are some very rich people that hang out at the Swiss but you'd never know it. Kelly Clarkson's a regular when she's in town.
If the Bohemian malt was under modified, low protein, malt, which is the best malt to use for making ale and lager because it's rich in enzyme content and sugar, the enzymes needed to make ale and lager were rapidly denatured at the temperature used to soak the malt. If the malt was high modified, high protein, homebrew malt it is distillers grade malt containing mainly Alpha. A spec sheet comes with malt and modification and percentage of protein are listed. A spec sheet is used to determine the quality of malt before it is purchased.
The conversion rest was skipped during the brew day. Beta is responsible for conversion (140F). Beta converts glucose released by Alpha during liquefaction into complex sugar. Starch doesn't convert to sugar, it's a poly-saccharide, the sugar is in it. Starch is the container that protects the sugar. Alpha liquefies a link in the amylose starch chain and two chains form. The reducing end chain contains sweet tasting, nonfermenting, sugar. The non-reducing end chain is glucose.
When conversion occurs secondary fermentation is required and the beer won't need to be primed with sugar or injected with CO2 for carbonating. Beer naturally carbonates during conditioning due to maltotriose, which is complex sugar formed by Beta during conversion. Beta, also, forms maltose, a disaccharide which is responsible for secondary fermentation.
To lower ABV use a high rest temperature. Alpha releases more sweet tasting, nonfermenting, sugar and less glucose at high temperature. The best way is to use complex starch, amylopectin. Contained in the starch is limit dextrin. A and B limit dextrin are tasteless, nonfermenting, sugars responsible for body and mouthfeel. The starch is the white particles left in spent mash when the infusion method is used. The starch is heat resistant and to make use of the starch mash is boiled and during dextrinization Alpha releases limit dextrin. The mash jells up at the same time due to pectin. The finest ale and lager are produced from a dextrinous wort, not from sweet tasting, nonfermenting, sugar.
The single temperature infusion method is used by distillers and the beer is called distillers beer, the slang is moonshiners beer. The method produces mainly glucose which is responsible for primary fermentation and ABV. Fermentation is quick and yeast will produce a high volume of alcohol due to glucose. The homebrew method skips boiling the mash, conversion, dextrinization, gelatinization and secondary fermentation. Without the actions it is chemically and enzymatically impossible to produce ale and lager but not distillers beer.
Rinse out Starsan. Without realizing it chemically imbalanced, unstable, wort was produced, regardless of what homebrew literature mentions about the stuff. If beer requires Starsan there's something wrong. It's best to stay away from water treatment. A brewer never tells anyone what they do with water and malt, especially, to the guy that treats the water for the steam boilers and chillers who may claim he treats brewing water. Brewing water treatment is done in house and it's performed when distilled water is used. Chemicals are only added when something isn't working quite right during the brewing process and enzymes are usually added. Chemicals aren't added the way homebrewers are instructed. For chemicals to work precipitation has to occur which doesn't take place in the single temperature method, except at the wrong time, in the boiler. The enzymes that change the new chemicals formed during precipitation when mash is boiling are denatured by the time the extract enters the boiler. The extract from single temperature infusion lacks vitamins and nutrients beneficial for yeast and people, however, the method creates vitamins and nutrients beneficial for Gram-P and Gram-N bacteria which spoil beer. Gram-P bacteria is lacto, Gram-N is aceto. The method creates chemically imbalanced, unstable, extract which cause issues during fermentation, off flavors and short shelf life associated with homebrew.
Skim off hot break as it forms and continue to remove it until it drastically reduces, then, add bittering hops. The extract will be cleaner and hop character will stick better. Less hops are needed. Skim off second break after hops are added. It's best to use hops that have an Alpha, Beta number within a decimal point. The closer the numbers the finer the hop. High Alpha, low Beta hops were discarded or used in hop pillows before homebrewing was invented because they are imbalanced and a brewer won't buy them.
When hot break is removed less gunk forms during fermentation. There is a chemical in hot break essential for yeast reproduction but for yeast to absorb the chemical it has to go through other chemicals first which causes off flavors due to a type of autolysis. Besides, when yeast goes for hot break the reproduction stage is long gone and instead of yeast finding complex sugar it goes after the chemicals in hot break and autolysis occurs due to enzymes in yeast. It's financially unwise to extract the essential chemical from hot break because when tests were done there was no indication in the final product that anything was accomplished by hot break. Brewers leaving beer on yeast for weeks makes poor quality beer.
Living in Washington it would probably be better if you purchase fresh Malt from Skagit Malting. They sell high quality brewers grade and heirloom malt to homebrewers. Purchase hops from the two main growers out there and use leaf hops. Homebrew ingredients can be old, slack.
Stay safe you and yours. Stay parched, my friend.
This is a lot to take in but I copied it into my notepad so I can read paragraph by paragraph :) Thanks so much for the info! I am definitely going to check out Skagit and I usually use Yakima Vallery or Yakima Chief.
Excellent! loved this! what a beautiful area to brew! cheers!
My favorite place in the world!
I've so done the magnetic stir stick dropped in the fermenter more than once, so it was funny to me that I had to rewind when I didn't catch what happened right off the bat!!
It was very quick haha!
Takin my paint paddle back to Lowes, on your advice🤣
Hahahah put that thing back where it came from!
Great video; love Belgian beers! Get you a couple extra stir bars because those things always find a way to sneak in the fermenter. As far as the whirlpool, I slowly crank the speed to max; then let it sit and continue spinning on its own for 10-20 minutes to get a good cone formed in the middle. Having a 90⁰ tube feeding into your ball valve helps as well since it picks stuff up closest to the edge of the kettle rather than pulling in from the center where your hop cone is. I personally use a whirlpool stirrer from NorCal Brewing and a side pickup tube from Spike Brewing. Let us know how the beers turn out! 🍻
Fortunately Sean had an extra one lying around! Thanks for the tips! I never really worried about it because I always bagged my hops but I just listened to a Brulosophy episode about bagging hops and it seems like there is indeed a difference so I'm gunna have to figure out what to do now!
Hell yeah Homebrew Ohio is my local homebrew shop
Very Nice place to make beer, congrats, enjoy.
Love it up here.
My recent belgian triple was from February. It has OG 1088 without sugar and 1097 with 500g of light amber belgian candi. I usually add my candi at very last days of fermentation rather, than into the cattle. Firstly to catch up as much as i can candi sugar aromas and secondly to agitate my yeast to work little bit more then ,they are preaty much exhausted at fight with 9,5 abv. i've used than Mangrove jack's M-31 belgian triple yeast. Now it's maturated already and quite estery funcy but dry as hell yet super clean and crisp.
Good tips! I've never used Candi sugar before so I just used it like I would table sugar. I can't wait to transfer this today (hopefully if memorial day drinking doesn't get in the way)
Ohio comes through in a pinch. O H I O
Looks like a fun brew day!
Despite the hangover it was pretty great!
magnet on the stir bar will hold it on the glass. lol. have done that so frequently.
Smart! I totally forgot it was in there!
Another good day. Keep em coming :)
Will do!
Hi, Wow, Good Recepty, coole Location, perfekt Brewday
I only can say 👍👍👍👍😁😁
Thank you 😋
Sorry I missed your live chat .. great brew day
Next time! I'm going to try to do more live chats and live streams
Whirlpool works for me and drops the Hop Sludge down in the middle of the vessel and the take-out is to one side. I would prefer to use the whole Hop Flower but they tend to get crushed into dust in an excessivly vacuum sealed thingy. In my past they were an excellent filter bed.
The actual velocity of the Whirlpool does not have to be great, it is the wait afterwards which is as important.
The 19 Brix you got was about the value I get post Mash, prior to Sparge. I then add 12 Litres Sparge to make up to 29 Litres Pre-Boil volume for 23/4 Litres in the Fermenter. That makes you a wholesome brew. :-D
An interesting video. Thank you.
I have mixed feelings about whole hops, the times I use them they just seem to clog everything.
@@FloraBrewing I believe todays whole hop flowers are vacuum sealed very strongly in Mylar bags and frankly finish up containging a high proportion of crushed (very crushed, dust) product. If the more whole of them can be encouraged to settle to the bottom of the boil vessel and some re-circulation allowed which brings the dust bit back to the top it will be captured by the natural filter bed of the hops.
It is sometime since I did it but my Grainfather had a pathetic strainer. The holes were small, maybe a millimetre and I swopped this for an arrangement using a fairly wide holed strainer probable 3-4 mm and during the steriliseation phase of running the counterflow coil at the end of boil for several minutes the tiny bits of debris seemed to pass through the strainer and return to the vessel where they seemed to be captured by the hop bed.
I think it would have been even better if the boiler had been able to empty by gravity instead of the pump.
The only thing going for Pellets is that the sludge is quicker to clean after the brew.
You need a roof over your brew area. :-)
Hah I just dumped my stir bar yesterday into my ss brew bucket. I ended up sticking the magnet to the outside and pulling it to the top
You totally just saved us from tossing it! We transferred yesterday but totally forgot about it until this comment haha somehow it stuck in the carboy!
Love your videos, thank you :)
Glad you like them!
As soon as I heard the stir fall into the carboy I laughed out loud. Done that far too many times.
Did not even think about it
I'm going to brew for the first time and would like to make a podcast with you for first time brewing
How much of an efficiency difference are you seeing between the bag and your normal screen? Wonder if pressing the grains in your screen while it's draining would help.
I would say about 15%. I used to press on the screen but ended up busting some of the welds...
For 6 gallons at 85% efficiency your OG should have been about 1.086 by ppg of your fermentables. Assuming you corrected your reading for temperature you really knocked that Trippel out of the park! Myth-Buster: BIAB can give you some impressive efficiencies! ❤️
The refractometer is apparently ATC so should have been close! It tasted right anyway :)
Mine is ATC too and it’s pretty unreliable compared to a hydrometer. Even if you calculate a wort correction factor it is still off except at a specific temperature. Yeah, PITA.
I thought for years about what to do if I dumped the stir bar into my fermenter and the idea I came up with is to keep an extendable wand magnet sanitized just in case.
Smart! People also suggested using a magnet on the outside to coax it out.
Great Stuff!
Thanks!
Washington looks like Scotland 🌧 😂
It only rains when I'm trying to do something outside haha!
Shoulda transferred that second beer into a bag I gave up on whilpools. I own 6 stir bars at least two at any time are in something I cant get at. Thankfully they are cheap.
I don't think I'll do it again. It was one of those..what could it hurt ideas lol
Whirpool works just fine, next time do it at the slowest speed possible or just by hand.
Thanks for the tip! We were definitely winging it.
25:15 killed me 🤣🤣
Haha the husband is in the TV industry so he's got all the lingo
Belgian beers are brewed with MULTISTEPS mashing. That’s a key point for the complexity of the beer.
Call me a simpleton but these were plenty complex for me. I am interested in learning more about multi step mashes but I think I need different equipment.
Flora Brewing not that hard to perform. As the Trappist monks say « keep it plain simple ». For a triple, I would keep that temperature at 145 first for about 45 min and raise it to 162 for the last 15 min. Just need to add some extra heat at the right time.
For a Belgian quadruple it would actually be just 30 min at 145 then a good 60 min at 155 to create that full body dark ale.
By the way, if you’re a fan of the Belgian-style ales, check out the book « Brew Like a Monk ». You will find a lot about how they brew these special ales. You would be surprised that the priming sugar for a triple should reach a CO2 volume of 3.5 and even more for some darker ales.
What is the table made of you are cooking on
I think it's a piece of slate
proper typsey 😂😂🥰
shouldn't the tripel be more clear to start though?
It cleared out a bunch in fermentation. It was transferred with all the trub from the kettle.
😍😍
I just drain the hot water into a cooler and add the grains. Brew in a bag is too much work
Oh I'm at Jefferson county WA so pm if you would like a video on my first video
Show for us the results
Transferring the tripel today I think so a review will come soon
Quit complaining about getting that good numbers. As long as the beer is tasting good avb is irrelevant.
Didnt think I was complaining but you got it
@@FloraBrewing lol bragging. It not a typical problem to face. Most times I'm on the other end and having to boil for longer.