If you enjoyed the video, please give it a *thumbs up* 👍 Your support is *greatly appreciated* . I also have a *STEREO Upgrade* : ua-cam.com/video/JBnRhJJNNAE/v-deo.html *TWEETER Upgrade* : ua-cam.com/video/EG8nxTCzVa0/v-deo.html and *FRONT SPEAKER Upgrade* : ua-cam.com/video/YFdReUjCeu0/v-deo.html
Thanks for your video. I needed to replace a blown rear speaker & I would have been lost with out your instructions. Got the job done in under an hour.
DO NOT BUY THE 6X9 SPEAKERS recommended. They are 3 Ohms speakers whereas you need 4 Ohm speakers as suggested by the manual. I bought these speakers and I couldnt figure out why the sound couldnt play until I took it to an audio expert.
You're the first one to mention having a problem. I've used these speakers with the stock head unit and they worked great. Also plenty of people have bought them through the Amazon link and nobody has said they didn't work. Maybe you got a faulty pair, or the Stereo in your car is very sensitive, which car model is it? Even though they are 3 Ohm, they rely on the wire going all the way to back to make the impedance actually 4 Ohm. It's called "True 4 Ohm" technology". Thanks for the comment.
I am looking at the parts for a 2019 Sedan, and it looks like it uses the same speaker size, and even the same bracket. See here: metraonline.com/part/82-8154 it lists 2012-2019 as the same part/size. So the speaker size and mounting method will be similar, but I don't know about removing the plastic covers. If the interior panels look the same, then it's likely very similar, but I've never tried a 2019 so I'm not sure. Thanks for watching!
Awesome vid! Note for anyone with a 2014 Corolla if you do decide to go the adapter route (not shown in the vid) you will need some kind of extension for the adapters to reach the speakers.
Lmfaooo I just bought a new Apple car play and Android auto after market display , because Toyota radios go out without fail at 100k miles or so. Also my back bass speakers are also out ! Seems like a common issue with 2014 Toyota corollas
My friend, belived or not I just looking how you remove rear speaker panel to change the bulb break ligth roasted. You really have caution removal all stuff to access speaker. You are a professional.
How do I know what colors are negative and positive on my 17 le corolla? My colors look like left is blue and black and the right is green and black. Thanks
Are you sure you are looking at the speaker wires?? Here are the wire colors for almost any Corolla: my.prostreetonline.com/2015/07/02/how-to-toyota-corolla-stereo-wiring-diagram/
2012-2018 Wire Colors are: Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): White The Yellow can look very much like white, I mistakenly labelled it as "White" in the video.
@CleverFix there's definitely no red, or yellow and might be white. But they're all dark colors. I was gonna tap into them near the door jam. But since the colors weren't the same I torn into it. The connectors and the factory wires are not the same as the diagram. And all pictures I've seen are for older ones. Mines a le so base model as them come. But not much pictures of newer like 2016 up base that I can find. So I bought a adapter from metra and gonna use those to piggy back off of to keep no cutting. A lot of work for me to install just a kicker pt250.
@@sneakysnakepie1 It's really strange, because I checked the Chilton wiring diagram for 2017 and it's supposed to be the same as mine.. Red and White on one side, and Black/Yellow on the other. You can use a voltmeter to determine the polarity: ua-cam.com/video/zmiTlJnf_E0/v-deo.html
It gives more room to work, so yes I did. Folding it down is enough though, although it's more cramped. I have a video with the removal here: ua-cam.com/video/soKMNcO42Rk/v-deo.html
It's a 2014 Corolla. The install should be similar for all 2014-2019. See this website for compatible parts: www.crutchfield.ca/g_103200/Speaker-Mounting-Brackets.html?avf=1
@@abaidullahs.5536 That sucks... Must be an older model? I'd get a quote from a car audio shop for making the holes.. they should have the proper tools to make a clean even hole.
I keep hearing vibration and rattling noise from my rear Corolla Altis deck, I don't understand why I have changed the old speakers but it is still noisy when playing heavy bass.
It happens a bit to mine too, but it's so little that I don't need to do anything. Try contacting the folks at Dynamat, they should be able to help out with the proper product to use and how to apply them: www.dynamat.com/company/contact/ There is Dynamat and Dynaliner which should help. They just stick on and reduce vibrations. I've used Dynamat in the past and applied it to the sheet metal on the doors behind the door panels, and it works very nicely.. I'm not sure if just Dynamat is enough for vibrations on a rear tray, they will know better than me.
Just out of curiosity, isn’t 14 Gauge wire a little overkill? Can I get away with 16 gauge or even 18? Because 14 gauge seems way too overkill, does anyone know why he used bigger gauge wire?
I used it in the front so water doesn't drip down on the speaker from the window, and to direct sound into the foam behind the speaker. That's not applicable for the trunk though. It would help with some vibration dampening, but I'm not sure if it's worth it.
I just bought my 07 honda accord in December and wondered why no sound from back speakers, today while I was cleaning the car I noticed they weren't plugged in, so I plugged them in and tried it out, such a horrible sound came out of all speakers after...tonight I just bought a pair of Kenwood 400w sport series 6x9, I don't have an aftermarket stereo just stock, if I hook it up this way would it still have decent and loud sound with stock radio and would it fix the current problem that the stock speakers is making that horrible noise through out?
I'm guessing you changed them by now? UA-cam hasn't been showing me most comments so I'm just finding them manually. I'd definitely try the Kenwoods directly before getting an amp. It should sound good.
Nice video! I was wondering, would it be alright if I bought 5-way instead of a 3-way for the rear speakers? Did you or would you need to install an amp for the speakers?
Don't confuse quality for the number of Ways.. You can have very high quality 2 or 3 way that is much better than 5-way. Having said that, if you think the 5-way is a good quality, it will surely work. The sensitivity and watts of the speakers will decide if you need an amp or not. The ones I installed are 94dB which is very sensitive, and 100watts RMS (300w peak) . They work perfectly fine with the stock stereo, I don't have an external amp.
It should be fine with the stock deck, but if you feel it's not powering them enough you can always add an amp later since you can access the wires through the trunk. I'd say give it try without first.
I think it will help to a degree yes, but you may have to put it on both sides.. Putting on the top is not as easy because you have to be careful that the plastic cover still fits on properly, and will have to remove it of course... I haven't looked very closely how the plastic cover fits and where the plastic would vibrate against the metal, but if you can add even something like the speaker tape I put on top of the bracket in between the plastic cover and metal where they touch each other, that would help to dampen the vibrations. Dynamat will reduce vibration altogether, and dampening the contact points between the plastic cover and metal if possible, will reduce the rattling noise of plastic against metal. Hope that helps.. I don't have a lot of rattles because I don't have a sub.
You have to figure out what's vibrating. I would remove the plastic cover and then see if it's still vibrating. If it's not, then it's the cover.. Or press down on it in different places to see if it reduces the vibration, at least to narrow down what is vibrating. Then you can use something like Dynamat to reduce the vibration. There is also some access from the trunk to some of the cover clips and the speakers.. Depending on what's vibrating, maybe some Gorilla epoxy glue could help. Mine is ok, no rattles thankfully.
The fitment chart for the Metra brackets shows that 2014 and 2017 are the same, so it looks like any bracket that fits 2014 will fit for you too. I know amazon says up 2016 though. Any 6x9 should fit in that bracket.
No problem 👍 I didn't use them because I had the wire and terminals left over from the front, so it didn't make sense, but extending them should be fairly easily.
Generally, oval speakers have a larger surface area and can produce more bass than round speakers of the same size. Round speakers, on the other hand, tend to have a more focused sound and can be easier to install. In this case, I would suggest sticking with the 6x9, especially since there is no special bracket I know of to mount round speakers there. You can make your own bracket if you really want though.
Black is Positive. See here: www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=136659 LR Speaker (+) BLACK LR Speaker (-) YELLOW I thought it's white, but it looks like it's actually yellow. I know it's strange but that's how it is.
I'm not sure which bolts you mean, the ones that go into the bracket? They should come with the bracket. And the other bolts are from the old speakers.
I wasn't messing with them.. I removed the trim carefully without ripping any wires. If you want to make 100% sure nothing can happen, then disconnect the battery to be sure. You will also need to wait until the airbag capacitor drains once the battery is disconnected, which may take longer than 10 minutes.. Each car could be different. I found a reference online that mentions 10 minutes.. but it could take longer.
I was looking to see if you were going to add a rear baffle like the front and found what I had been searching for on you tube right here. I was trying to figure out how to remove the C-Pillar cover and it was included here, but when I searched this video didn't show. Your videos are very instructional and perfectly paced. Thank you for doing such a thorough presentation. Is there a reason why you didn't use a baffle on the rear speakers?😁
Yes there is a reason. Car speakers are designed to be open ended, they should never be closed in completely from behind. What I did on the front does not close them in, and allows air to still flow behind them. This is not possible for the rear speakers. I haven't tried it, but from the research I have done, closing them in would make them sound worse. What I did on the front minimizes reflections. The speaker sends sound in front of it, as well as behind it. The sheet metal of the door is very close behind the speaker, so it would cause vibrations. In the trunk, this much less of a problem, because there is a lot of space between the speaker and bottom of the trunk.. and there's also the trunk liner that should help to minimize sound reflections. Hope that helps, and thanks for the comment!
It's not necessary no, you can buy anything similar to substitute, and even skip the speaker sealing tape. Any type of 6x9 speakers will work, so some $$ can be saved there... and your local auto store should have some similar connectors and some speaker wire. The adapter bracket is the only special part, and I haven't found one anywhere else, although Metra might make one too.
The stereo on my 2014 Corolla has been shutting off and rebooting on its own. When I turn on the car it shows the Toyota sign, then a caution message about obeying traffic rules. Then the menu pops up, but seconds after it shuts down and it restarts again. Any helpful tips?
Sounds like the stereo has become faulty, especially if it happens every single time without exception. If there is no vibration from the road and it's rebooting, then it's less likely to be a loose connection or loose wire, and more likely a faulty stereo. Also when the car is running, it should be getting full voltage, unless the alternator has a problem. I would check battery voltage with a voltmeter while the car is running to make sure the voltage is around 14V.. If voltage is OK and stereo keeps rebooting, then the stereo is likely faulty. The final test I'd do would be to remove it and check the power wire coming into it at the back, and make sure it's coming in constantly and not being interrupted for some reason, which would cause a reboot if it's happening.. a faulty ignition switch could possibly cause that, especially if it's a key switch (not push to start), but it would need a little movement to happen.
@@CleverFix It was actually working tonight and stayed on for an entire 45 minute drive. Music was playing good via Bluetooth. I’ve always wanted to upgrade so I’m thinking about buying a better stereo with a bigger screen. I’ll check the wires meanwhile. Any chance you have any Amazon links for a stereo that fits the Corolla without cutting the frame? We have the exact same stereo
@@chrisinthecut1698 It could be a wiring issue if it worked for 45 minutes.. It could be stereo too though, the touchscreen on mine is starting to have problems, and someone else said theirs is too, so it seems like it's not the highest quality. Also an aftermarket will sound quite a bit better. I added links to parts for installing a new stereo in this video's description, including the Pioneer stereo I just bought. I'm looking to install it soon and make a video, but it will take a while, it's pretty cold out and I don't have a garage to park in. I haven't tested yet how well the Pioneer stereo fits in the Scosche bracket, I'm just waiting for the bracket to arrive, but it should work well. I only got the stereo so far, it looks really nice and it has Android/Apple CarPlay in case you're interested in that feature. The Crux SWRTY is to hook up the backup camera, steering wheel controls and existing USB port. It also simplifies the install, and hooks into the existing factory connectors without having to cut them, however, the Crux wires have to be connected to the Pioneer wires manually, it's quite easy though. And the Scosche bracket will cover up the existing volume knob and all buttons, and a standard double DIN stereo will bolt into it.
It's a similar procedure on all cars, but the trim removal is different for sure, and you have to make sure the top cover fits overs the new speaker. In this case it did, but sometimes it doesn't. See this video, he had to trim the cover to fit: ua-cam.com/video/qSbxPTXKvAw/v-deo.html His model might be closer to yours.
@@ethelyuh6310 If you mean the white colored panel, behind the door, above the package tray, then yes both have to be removed.. That's called the C-Pillar Panel, it's not weather stripping.
@@CleverFix if I was at home I'd be able to find the timestamp but you took off the seal around one rear door and then a black panel on the floor that runs under the door, and you put it back at the end of the video, in the video you only did it to one side, i was just wondering if that was something we needed to do to both sides or if that was just to show us where the wires ran in the car
@@ethelyuh6310 Oh yes, I remember now,. Yes, same on both sides, I just didn't show it twice. The purpose of removing the rubber seal, is to get the panels off, otherwise it's hard to reach the clips underneath and pull them off. The purpose of disconnecting the middle brake light wire behind the panel, is to be able to remove the package tray, without breaking it. The package tray has the middle brake light build into it, so pulling on the tray can break that wire, if it's not disconnected first. Hope that helps!
I did not use them, but you can if you don't want to buy wire and terminals and put it together like I did. I had to do that for the front, because the front was corroded I had no choice, so I had plenty of wire and terminals remaining for the back and it made no sense to use adapters. Some people prefer adapters so I put the link there for them.
I didn't notice any difference really,.. Yes it should be louder, but up or down, I couldn't tell. If you install the speaker on the wrong side, you'll also thread the screws from the wrong side. If they don't go in fully through, the thread will not be fully made, and once you turn it over and start another thread, it will be all messed up. I explained in the video as much as I could that there's only one way it lines up and put the diagram how the speaker goes in hoping people would realize it... Just make sure the thread is fully made to the other side before starting a screw from the other side.
@@CleverFix you make the best videos, when someone is using the same products you linked up on Amazon the steps are super easy to follow. I hope you're getting 5% of these Amazon sales
@@joewhattoff8754 Thanks, That's the idea, make it easy for everyone, so that they don't have to guess what parts to get. I get about 3% which I've been using to buy parts for the videos. I just got some LED lights and a battery tester I'm gonna do videos on. The weather is not very good for videos right now though.. it's either very windy or very cold 🥶
hello i just the same job today, (unfortunately i didn't have any brackets). I would advise you to use the original clip harness. Also it would much better to install an amplifier. Sound isolation, on the cover plate, would also make the sound better.
Thank you for your videos, they are really well done. I recently changed my front and rear speakers on my 2o14 Toyota Corolla. I was wondering if you can do a video on sound deadening? I followed your interactions but my start still rattles a lot on the rear deck speakers.
That's unusual, I don't get any rattling.. you can get some Dynamat on amazon and stick it onto metal around the speakers.. There are plenty of videos that show how to do it, like this one: ua-cam.com/video/g9s2MmkDZ_o/v-deo.html
Why would you do it like that? When the end you cut off the other speaker you could’ve just wired that to the wires and use the clip? I don’t understand your math but good luck.
Not sure what you mean, sorry. The factory speakers have connectors on the top, and the aftermarket speakers have spade terminals on the bottom. so A small piece of wire has to be added, otherwise the factory wires can't reach the terminals on the new speaker.
Hey i have a turkish made 2016 model and i am planning to get this done, can you help me answering some questions ? Did the back tray fit over the new speakers? Did you feel that the sound balance got screwed up ? like the sound from the back is now more powerful ? Did you feel the need to add an amplifier? Thanks in advance mate
The tray fits over the speakers easily, nothing to cut like the previous generation Corolla. The new speakers sound great, no issues with sound balance. I feel like some bass would help, bass is lacking a bit. Getting a subwoofer would be nice.
@@CleverFix Hey CleverFix it is me again and all hail procrastination.. 2 Years ago i just applied black paper clip on the bottom of the speaker to eliminate the buzzing till today.. If this won't disturb you i am here for another inquiry.. Did you get the woofer ? i feel that the stock balanced sound is good for me, will i need a woofer ? And for a long review is your setup still holding good with the oem radio ? Thanks and sorry to bother you
If you enjoyed the video, please give it a *thumbs up* 👍 Your support is *greatly appreciated* .
I also have a *STEREO Upgrade* : ua-cam.com/video/JBnRhJJNNAE/v-deo.html *TWEETER Upgrade* : ua-cam.com/video/EG8nxTCzVa0/v-deo.html and *FRONT SPEAKER Upgrade* : ua-cam.com/video/YFdReUjCeu0/v-deo.html
This video easily could have been 45 minutes
I've watched the front speaker video and this completes the set. Thanks for sharing, have a wonderful day.
Thanks for making this! Will be upgrading my own speakers here shortly in a couple of days and will use this!
Thanks for your video. I needed to replace a blown rear speaker & I would have been lost with out your instructions. Got the job done in under an hour.
Wow, that's amazing.. I wish I did it in an hour, but since I had to film, it took probably 5-6 hours!
Great video! What year is your car? Thanks
Thanks! It's a 2014.
DO NOT BUY THE 6X9 SPEAKERS recommended. They are 3 Ohms speakers whereas you need 4 Ohm speakers as suggested by the manual. I bought these speakers and I couldnt figure out why the sound couldnt play until I took it to an audio expert.
You're the first one to mention having a problem. I've used these speakers with the stock head unit and they worked great. Also plenty of people have bought them through the Amazon link and nobody has said they didn't work. Maybe you got a faulty pair, or the Stereo in your car is very sensitive, which car model is it? Even though they are 3 Ohm, they rely on the wire going all the way to back to make the impedance actually 4 Ohm. It's called "True 4 Ohm" technology". Thanks for the comment.
I think it's dumb that they leave the third brake light wire like that. 2013 is the same way. PUT A DAMN DISCONNECT THERE.
Great video , decided to replace my back speakers after replacing the front and this video helped very much.
Great to hear!
Do yourself a favor and buy extra panel clips because there's about a 100% chance you break/drop them into the frame of the car to be lost forever.
just got some new speakers, where can i get the bracket for 2018 corolla?? one i got bolts dont line up.
Listening to this is like watching welding job sorry thanks
Thanks! This channel is very helpful, I was wondering if you can make video of how to replace rear rotor and pads on 2014 Toyota Corolla
Hello CleverFix, is this compatible with a 2019 Corolla SE? Thank you for the vid!
I am looking at the parts for a 2019 Sedan, and it looks like it uses the same speaker size, and even the same bracket. See here: metraonline.com/part/82-8154 it lists 2012-2019 as the same part/size. So the speaker size and mounting method will be similar, but I don't know about removing the plastic covers. If the interior panels look the same, then it's likely very similar, but I've never tried a 2019 so I'm not sure. Thanks for watching!
I would love to see you add a mono subwoofer 🤭 i followed both your content from front door speakers to the rear. Same speakers as well
This is insane. I'm just gonna roll with blown speakers...
Omg😂
Thanks for the tuto! Very helpful. That stock speakers are shameful 🥲
What do I do if the holes don’t match up ?
Do you live in SC ? That way I can pay you to do my speakers. lol
Awesome vid! Note for anyone with a 2014 Corolla if you do decide to go the adapter route (not shown in the vid) you will need some kind of extension for the adapters to reach the speakers.
Thanks for the tip and for watching!
VERY NICE! You are awesome and i learned so much from your videos. Thank you. #TeamCorolla
Glad to hear, thanks.
Thank you so much I needed that hook up
Hello, i bought 6x8 kappa speakers.. can i put that in corolla 2014? .. front or back.. thanks
You made this look wayyy to easy! Thank you
Yup, it's not too hard at all, just takes a bit of time. 😊 Thanks for watching!
I just removed the wire from the stock speaker so I could plug it in instead of doing all the other stuff
Any advantage to using 6x9 speaker baffles with the rear deck speakers?
I’d like to know as well!!
@@andya4300 we'll Simply have to get them put them in and try them
My radio is suck in booting. Finally gonna buy a new radio and change my back speakers. Thanks alot for this tutorial
Glad it helps!
Lmfaooo I just bought a new Apple car play and Android auto after market display , because Toyota radios go out without fail at 100k miles or so. Also my back bass speakers are also out ! Seems like a common issue with 2014 Toyota corollas
My friend, belived or not I just looking how you remove rear speaker panel to change the bulb break ligth roasted. You really have caution removal all stuff to access speaker. You are a professional.
Would I be able to use the exact speaker and bracket you used for a 2011 japanese built toyota corolla?
Are those rear speakers able to fit a Corolla e12 2006? Struggling to find someone that knows
Can you show a demo please, I'm thinking of putting 3 10s on the rear?
How do I know what colors are negative and positive on my 17 le corolla? My colors look like left is blue and black and the right is green and black. Thanks
Are you sure you are looking at the speaker wires??
Here are the wire colors for almost any Corolla:
my.prostreetonline.com/2015/07/02/how-to-toyota-corolla-stereo-wiring-diagram/
2012-2018 Wire Colors are:
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): White
The Yellow can look very much like white, I mistakenly labelled it as "White" in the video.
@CleverFix there's definitely no red, or yellow and might be white. But they're all dark colors. I was gonna tap into them near the door jam. But since the colors weren't the same I torn into it. The connectors and the factory wires are not the same as the diagram. And all pictures I've seen are for older ones. Mines a le so base model as them come. But not much pictures of newer like 2016 up base that I can find. So I bought a adapter from metra and gonna use those to piggy back off of to keep no cutting. A lot of work for me to install just a kicker pt250.
@@sneakysnakepie1 It's really strange, because I checked the Chilton wiring diagram for 2017 and it's supposed to be the same as mine.. Red and White on one side, and Black/Yellow on the other. You can use a voltmeter to determine the polarity: ua-cam.com/video/zmiTlJnf_E0/v-deo.html
Did you remove the rear seat?
It gives more room to work, so yes I did. Folding it down is enough though, although it's more cramped. I have a video with the removal here: ua-cam.com/video/soKMNcO42Rk/v-deo.html
Hello what year Corolla is this?
It's a 2014 Corolla. The install should be similar for all 2014-2019. See this website for compatible parts: www.crutchfield.ca/g_103200/Speaker-Mounting-Brackets.html?avf=1
Can you tell us the model number and where can we mail order? Thank you so much.
For the back speakers cables is white and back or yellow and black ? Thanks
My 2016 corolla does not even have the holes for the speakers in the rear dash😕. Why is that?
You checked from the trunk?
@@CleverFix yeah bro
@@abaidullahs.5536 That sucks... Must be an older model? I'd get a quote from a car audio shop for making the holes.. they should have the proper tools to make a clean even hole.
He made it look so easy 💀💀
Practice makes perfect! 💪 It's actually much harder to film what I do, than to do it!
I keep hearing vibration and rattling noise from my rear Corolla Altis deck, I don't understand why I have changed the old speakers but it is still noisy when playing heavy bass.
It happens a bit to mine too, but it's so little that I don't need to do anything.
Try contacting the folks at Dynamat, they should be able to help out with the proper product to use and how to apply them:
www.dynamat.com/company/contact/
There is Dynamat and Dynaliner which should help. They just stick on and reduce vibrations. I've used Dynamat in the past and applied it to the sheet metal on the doors behind the door panels, and it works very nicely.. I'm not sure if just Dynamat is enough for vibrations on a rear tray, they will know better than me.
Need like this video for camry se 2022 please
Just out of curiosity, isn’t 14 Gauge wire a little overkill? Can I get away with 16 gauge or even 18? Because 14 gauge seems way too overkill, does anyone know why he used bigger gauge wire?
Have the same question.
Would you recommend adding a NVX speaker baffle for the rear speakers like you did the front speakers in another video?
I used it in the front so water doesn't drip down on the speaker from the window, and to direct sound into the foam behind the speaker. That's not applicable for the trunk though. It would help with some vibration dampening, but I'm not sure if it's worth it.
why is it so complicated to switch the speakers omg
I just bought my 07 honda accord in December and wondered why no sound from back speakers, today while I was cleaning the car I noticed they weren't plugged in, so I plugged them in and tried it out, such a horrible sound came out of all speakers after...tonight I just bought a pair of Kenwood 400w sport series 6x9, I don't have an aftermarket stereo just stock, if I hook it up this way would it still have decent and loud sound with stock radio and would it fix the current problem that the stock speakers is making that horrible noise through out?
I'm guessing you changed them by now? UA-cam hasn't been showing me most comments so I'm just finding them manually. I'd definitely try the Kenwoods directly before getting an amp. It should sound good.
you made my day 👍
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you liked the video.
Nice video! I was wondering, would it be alright if I bought 5-way instead of a 3-way for the rear speakers? Did you or would you need to install an amp for the speakers?
Don't confuse quality for the number of Ways.. You can have very high quality 2 or 3 way that is much better than 5-way. Having said that, if you think the 5-way is a good quality, it will surely work. The sensitivity and watts of the speakers will decide if you need an amp or not. The ones I installed are 94dB which is very sensitive, and 100watts RMS (300w peak) . They work perfectly fine with the stock stereo, I don't have an external amp.
So I need that base bracket where that speaker rests!?
Thanks for video, if I install Polk 6x9 speakers, do I need to install an amp? they are rated for 450 watts, thanks.
It should be fine with the stock deck, but if you feel it's not powering them enough you can always add an amp later since you can access the wires through the trunk. I'd say give it try without first.
My rear deck rattles bad because of my subwoofer. Do you guys think Dynamat on the metal underneath the rear deck/tray will fix this?
I think it will help to a degree yes, but you may have to put it on both sides.. Putting on the top is not as easy because you have to be careful that the plastic cover still fits on properly, and will have to remove it of course... I haven't looked very closely how the plastic cover fits and where the plastic would vibrate against the metal, but if you can add even something like the speaker tape I put on top of the bracket in between the plastic cover and metal where they touch each other, that would help to dampen the vibrations. Dynamat will reduce vibration altogether, and dampening the contact points between the plastic cover and metal if possible, will reduce the rattling noise of plastic against metal. Hope that helps.. I don't have a lot of rattles because I don't have a sub.
Thank you so much for the info I have a 2014 Corolla with excessive vibration in the trunk when I turn it up past halfway any remedies for that?
You have to figure out what's vibrating. I would remove the plastic cover and then see if it's still vibrating. If it's not, then it's the cover.. Or press down on it in different places to see if it reduces the vibration, at least to narrow down what is vibrating. Then you can use something like Dynamat to reduce the vibration. There is also some access from the trunk to some of the cover clips and the speakers.. Depending on what's vibrating, maybe some Gorilla epoxy glue could help. Mine is ok, no rattles thankfully.
Are there any special type of 6x9s you need or will any fit? I have 2017 think this would be the same.
The fitment chart for the Metra brackets shows that 2014 and 2017 are the same, so it looks like any bracket that fits 2014 will fit for you too. I know amazon says up 2016 though. Any 6x9 should fit in that bracket.
You kind of made a short cut after the electrical tape part. Now how did you connect it to the bottom of the speakers?
The spade connectors plug into the terminals on the back of the speaker (at 6:52) .. Just push them in.
Harness adapter is too short. Excellent video though. Thank you
No problem 👍 I didn't use them because I had the wire and terminals left over from the front, so it didn't make sense, but extending them should be fairly easily.
Do u have to take the seat out?
No I just replaced mine without doing that
Great video, planning to buy the same identical speakers, which ones did you get a two way or a three way??
The ones I got were Infinity REF-9623ix, They're 3-way.
Can I install round speaker in rear tray?any difference between sound of oval speaker and round
Generally, oval speakers have a larger surface area and can produce more bass than round speakers of the same size. Round speakers, on the other hand, tend to have a more focused sound and can be easier to install. In this case, I would suggest sticking with the 6x9, especially since there is no special bracket I know of to mount round speakers there. You can make your own bracket if you really want though.
How is the bass? Ibought new front speakers but, not very happ for the bass
You need a subwoofer if you want a lot of bass, speaker's can improve bass, but not a huge amount.
wait i am confused should not the white wire be positive and black be negative at 5:47
Black is Positive. See here: www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=136659
LR Speaker (+) BLACK
LR Speaker (-) YELLOW
I thought it's white, but it looks like it's actually yellow. I know it's strange but that's how it is.
Just completed the job. Thank you for the excellent video.
Hi did the brackets come with screws if not what size did you use thanks
Yes they came with the screws.
Could you tell me to size bolts for the speaker bracket? Loved the video!
I'm not sure which bolts you mean, the ones that go into the bracket? They should come with the bracket. And the other bolts are from the old speakers.
Love the video man. Quick question, do I need to buy sealing tape for the mounting brackets? Or is this optional? Thanks man!
Thanks. It's optional to reduce vibrations.
Great video! Can the sealing tape be purchased locally?
I'm not sure, try a car audio store, they might have it. Thanks for watching!
If you're messing with the airbags shouldn't you disconnect the battery so they don't blow up on you?
I wasn't messing with them.. I removed the trim carefully without ripping any wires. If you want to make 100% sure nothing can happen, then disconnect the battery to be sure. You will also need to wait until the airbag capacitor drains once the battery is disconnected, which may take longer than 10 minutes.. Each car could be different. I found a reference online that mentions 10 minutes.. but it could take longer.
@@CleverFix ok thanks
I was looking to see if you were going to add a rear baffle like the front and found what I had been searching for on you tube right here. I was trying to figure out how to remove the C-Pillar cover and it was included here, but when I searched this video didn't show. Your videos are very instructional and perfectly paced. Thank you for doing such a thorough presentation. Is there a reason why you didn't use a baffle on the rear speakers?😁
Yes there is a reason. Car speakers are designed to be open ended, they should never be closed in completely from behind. What I did on the front does not close them in, and allows air to still flow behind them. This is not possible for the rear speakers. I haven't tried it, but from the research I have done, closing them in would make them sound worse.
What I did on the front minimizes reflections. The speaker sends sound in front of it, as well as behind it. The sheet metal of the door is very close behind the speaker, so it would cause vibrations. In the trunk, this much less of a problem, because there is a lot of space between the speaker and bottom of the trunk.. and there's also the trunk liner that should help to minimize sound reflections. Hope that helps, and thanks for the comment!
@@CleverFix Perfect, thank you for taking the time to explain, it makes perfect sense. Your channel is now a favorite of mine.
Is it necessary to buy and use all the materials you mention?
It's not necessary no, you can buy anything similar to substitute, and even skip the speaker sealing tape. Any type of 6x9 speakers will work, so some $$ can be saved there... and your local auto store should have some similar connectors and some speaker wire. The adapter bracket is the only special part, and I haven't found one anywhere else, although Metra might make one too.
The stereo on my 2014 Corolla has been shutting off and rebooting on its own. When I turn on the car it shows the Toyota sign, then a caution message about obeying traffic rules. Then the menu pops up, but seconds after it shuts down and it restarts again. Any helpful tips?
Sounds like the stereo has become faulty, especially if it happens every single time without exception. If there is no vibration from the road and it's rebooting, then it's less likely to be a loose connection or loose wire, and more likely a faulty stereo.
Also when the car is running, it should be getting full voltage, unless the alternator has a problem. I would check battery voltage with a voltmeter while the car is running to make sure the voltage is around 14V.. If voltage is OK and stereo keeps rebooting, then the stereo is likely faulty.
The final test I'd do would be to remove it and check the power wire coming into it at the back, and make sure it's coming in constantly and not being interrupted for some reason, which would cause a reboot if it's happening.. a faulty ignition switch could possibly cause that, especially if it's a key switch (not push to start), but it would need a little movement to happen.
@@CleverFix It was actually working tonight and stayed on for an entire 45 minute drive. Music was playing good via Bluetooth. I’ve always wanted to upgrade so I’m thinking about buying a better stereo with a bigger screen. I’ll check the wires meanwhile. Any chance you have any Amazon links for a stereo that fits the Corolla without cutting the frame? We have the exact same stereo
@@chrisinthecut1698 It could be a wiring issue if it worked for 45 minutes.. It could be stereo too though, the touchscreen on mine is starting to have problems, and someone else said theirs is too, so it seems like it's not the highest quality. Also an aftermarket will sound quite a bit better.
I added links to parts for installing a new stereo in this video's description, including the Pioneer stereo I just bought. I'm looking to install it soon and make a video, but it will take a while, it's pretty cold out and I don't have a garage to park in.
I haven't tested yet how well the Pioneer stereo fits in the Scosche bracket, I'm just waiting for the bracket to arrive, but it should work well. I only got the stereo so far, it looks really nice and it has Android/Apple CarPlay in case you're interested in that feature.
The Crux SWRTY is to hook up the backup camera, steering wheel controls and existing USB port. It also simplifies the install, and hooks into the existing factory connectors without having to cut them, however, the Crux wires have to be connected to the Pioneer wires manually, it's quite easy though.
And the Scosche bracket will cover up the existing volume knob and all buttons, and a standard double DIN stereo will bolt into it.
So does the 2017 corolla take 6x9 as well?
Yes, same as in the video.
youre a fucking legend my guy im ordering my stuff rn
Nice!
I guess these are not so different from the 1995 Corolla? At least in theory. I'm planning on upgrading the sound system on that one
It's a similar procedure on all cars, but the trim removal is different for sure, and you have to make sure the top cover fits overs the new speaker. In this case it did, but sometimes it doesn't. See this video, he had to trim the cover to fit: ua-cam.com/video/qSbxPTXKvAw/v-deo.html His model might be closer to yours.
@@CleverFix Thank you so much! Cheers, fellow Corolla fan
do we need to take off the weather stripping for both doors?
No, rear speakers are at the back, not in the doors. And even for the front speakers, just the door panel is enough.
@@CleverFix well I was asking cause you did it to one side in the video I just wanted to make sure
@@ethelyuh6310 If you mean the white colored panel, behind the door, above the package tray, then yes both have to be removed.. That's called the C-Pillar Panel, it's not weather stripping.
@@CleverFix if I was at home I'd be able to find the timestamp but you took off the seal around one rear door and then a black panel on the floor that runs under the door, and you put it back at the end of the video, in the video you only did it to one side, i was just wondering if that was something we needed to do to both sides or if that was just to show us where the wires ran in the car
@@ethelyuh6310 Oh yes, I remember now,. Yes, same on both sides, I just didn't show it twice. The purpose of removing the rubber seal, is to get the panels off, otherwise it's hard to reach the clips underneath and pull them off.
The purpose of disconnecting the middle brake light wire behind the panel, is to be able to remove the package tray, without breaking it. The package tray has the middle brake light build into it, so pulling on the tray can break that wire, if it's not disconnected first. Hope that helps!
Where did you get the speaker bracket from?
Thanks for the question, I have links to all the parts in the video description.
Where exactly did you use the harness adapters? It's on your parts list but I didn't see the part being used in this video
I did not use them, but you can if you don't want to buy wire and terminals and put it together like I did. I had to do that for the front, because the front was corroded I had no choice, so I had plenty of wire and terminals remaining for the back and it made no sense to use adapters. Some people prefer adapters so I put the link there for them.
@@CleverFix I appreciate the reply, thank you
What are the pros and cons of activating the "+3db" button. I'm assuming just more overall volume. Any more distortion?
I didn't notice any difference really,.. Yes it should be louder, but up or down, I couldn't tell. If you install the speaker on the wrong side, you'll also thread the screws from the wrong side. If they don't go in fully through, the thread will not be fully made, and once you turn it over and start another thread, it will be all messed up. I explained in the video as much as I could that there's only one way it lines up and put the diagram how the speaker goes in hoping people would realize it... Just make sure the thread is fully made to the other side before starting a screw from the other side.
@@CleverFix excellent video. Not that I installed both front and rear I am very impressed with the sound quality.
Are the ohms matching the stock speakers?
They are 3ohms. The factory may have been 2ohms. The Infinitys are plenty loud though even at 3ohms..
Was it a noticeable difference
Yes
what is the thickness of the new rates
If you mean wires, I used 14 gauge, copper speaker wire.
@@CleverFix i mean thickness of brasckets
@@CleverFix i have a brasckets 6.7 mm and when i tightened the screwes, brasckets are not fits ...because of screws
@@vladimirmorozan6393 I can't measure since they're already installed, but they look to be about 4.5mm thick.
@@CleverFix what size screws did you use? speakers to brasckets
Thanks! Very helpful.
You're welcome!
Excellent video. I'm to the point of wiring them up.
Nice! 👍
@@CleverFix you make the best videos, when someone is using the same products you linked up on Amazon the steps are super easy to follow. I hope you're getting 5% of these Amazon sales
@@joewhattoff8754 Thanks, That's the idea, make it easy for everyone, so that they don't have to guess what parts to get. I get about 3% which I've been using to buy parts for the videos. I just got some LED lights and a battery tester I'm gonna do videos on. The weather is not very good for videos right now though.. it's either very windy or very cold 🥶
@@CleverFix I'm curious where you live
I'm in the western suburbs of Chicago
@@joewhattoff8754 I'm in Toronto, Canada .. hence all the rust!
hello i just the same job today, (unfortunately i didn't have any brackets). I would advise you to use the original clip harness.
Also it would much better to install an amplifier.
Sound isolation, on the cover plate, would also make the sound better.
Thank you for your videos, they are really well done. I recently changed my front and rear speakers on my 2o14 Toyota Corolla. I was wondering if you can do a video on sound deadening? I followed your interactions but my start still rattles a lot on the rear deck speakers.
That's unusual, I don't get any rattling.. you can get some Dynamat on amazon and stick it onto metal around the speakers.. There are plenty of videos that show how to do it, like this one: ua-cam.com/video/g9s2MmkDZ_o/v-deo.html
most likely, your back shelf is rattling, you need to remove the resonance from it
Why would you do it like that? When the end you cut off the other speaker you could’ve just wired that to the wires and use the clip? I don’t understand your math but good luck.
Not sure what you mean, sorry. The factory speakers have connectors on the top, and the aftermarket speakers have spade terminals on the bottom. so A small piece of wire has to be added, otherwise the factory wires can't reach the terminals on the new speaker.
Hey i have a turkish made 2016 model and i am planning to get this done, can you help me answering some questions ?
Did the back tray fit over the new speakers?
Did you feel that the sound balance got screwed up ? like the sound from the back is now more powerful ?
Did you feel the need to add an amplifier?
Thanks in advance mate
The tray fits over the speakers easily, nothing to cut like the previous generation Corolla. The new speakers sound great, no issues with sound balance. I feel like some bass would help, bass is lacking a bit. Getting a subwoofer would be nice.
@@CleverFix Hey CleverFix it is me again and all hail procrastination.. 2 Years ago i just applied black paper clip on the bottom of the speaker to eliminate the buzzing till today..
If this won't disturb you i am here for another inquiry.. Did you get the woofer ? i feel that the stock balanced sound is good for me, will i need a woofer ?
And for a long review is your setup still holding good with the oem radio ?
Thanks and sorry to bother you