Been doing a bit of garden archery lately, had never tried archery before and went with a compound bow which I found really easy to make tight groups and hitting soda cans at length of the garden So I bought a recurve bow as I found the compound a bit powerful for length of my garden, even with the limbs loosened, I can still hit a 50cm target at 25 yards shooting of the shelf of the recurve, but my groups aren't so good, like 2 will go in the same hole then others scattered around into small groups of 2 So having watched your video I'm pretty sure it's the arrows, think they are about 500 grain spine but have plastic fletches, just wanted to ask what arrow spine you would recommend for a 30lb recurve? Is 500 in the right kind of area? As I'm going to buy some feather fletched arrows, so I want to make sure I'm buying the correct ones as they cost a bit more And lastly, would you actually recommend shooting from the shelf? Or would shooting of a rest be a better option? As I do have a plunger thing and a little stick on rest that goes with it, but I felt the plunger was maybe complicating things for me and found shooting of the shelf to be more simple in respect of no mechanical adjustments to be made
500 spine is good for 30 lbs any lighter then that with 30 lbs will suck , feathers are a must for recurves as the plastic vanes tend to not be so forgiving and knock you off all time, shooting off the shelf is fine my centre point aspen is setup for shelf and 3 fingers under which works great , my pse nighthawk has the plastic rest and works great with split finger it's a knocing point placement thing one from the other.,. the plungers are more for use with a competition adjustable rest not for use at all. with the plastic stock on ones..ill do a video explaining the different rests and how they work this will give you the best idea for your setup you want to do.. give me about an hour ill have something uploaded today just be sure to sub my channel and click on notifications so you get my new uploads
I have made a handful of bows. The various string lines, bow cuts and arrow spines can all be taken into account and dialled with technique. The shelf, grip and stricker setup is what i believe delivers and accurate bow. The deliver subtle forgiveness as the arrow leaves the contact areas
you have some valid points that i would accept for sure.. but iam talking only about the bow it self in this video as being the device that is not accurate like many youtubers say its the bow its the bow when it has nothing to do with the bow
@@KevinMillard68 You are absolutely correct btw It's a rich mix of things to consider. A balance of technology and technique. The main takeaway is that your gear could be top grade but without solid technique it won't group. And also Vice versa. Good stuff my man. Come check out me bows if you've got a minute
is that a music reading stand? nice!
ok
Been doing a bit of garden archery lately, had never tried archery before and went with a compound bow which I found really easy to make tight groups and hitting soda cans at length of the garden
So I bought a recurve bow as I found the compound a bit powerful for length of my garden, even with the limbs loosened, I can still hit a 50cm target at 25 yards shooting of the shelf of the recurve, but my groups aren't so good, like 2 will go in the same hole then others scattered around into small groups of 2
So having watched your video I'm pretty sure it's the arrows, think they are about 500 grain spine but have plastic fletches, just wanted to ask what arrow spine you would recommend for a 30lb recurve? Is 500 in the right kind of area? As I'm going to buy some feather fletched arrows, so I want to make sure I'm buying the correct ones as they cost a bit more
And lastly, would you actually recommend shooting from the shelf? Or would shooting of a rest be a better option? As I do have a plunger thing and a little stick on rest that goes with it, but I felt the plunger was maybe complicating things for me and found shooting of the shelf to be more simple in respect of no mechanical adjustments to be made
500 spine is good for 30 lbs any lighter then that with 30 lbs will suck , feathers are a must for recurves as the plastic vanes tend to not be so forgiving and knock you off all time, shooting off the shelf is fine my centre point aspen is setup for shelf and 3 fingers under which works great , my pse nighthawk has the plastic rest and works great with split finger it's a knocing point placement thing one from the other.,. the plungers are more for use with a competition adjustable rest not for use at all. with the plastic stock on ones..ill do a video explaining the different rests and how they work this will give you the best idea for your setup you want to do.. give me about an hour ill have something uploaded today just be sure to sub my channel and click on notifications so you get my new uploads
I have made a handful of bows.
The various string lines, bow cuts and arrow spines can all be taken into account and dialled with technique.
The shelf, grip and stricker setup is what i believe delivers and accurate bow.
The deliver subtle forgiveness as the arrow leaves the contact areas
you have some valid points that i would accept for sure.. but iam talking only about the bow it self in this video as being the device that is not accurate like many youtubers say its the bow its the bow when it has nothing to do with the bow
@@KevinMillard68 You are absolutely correct btw
It's a rich mix of things to consider.
A balance of technology and technique.
The main takeaway is that your gear could be top grade but without solid technique it won't group.
And also Vice versa.
Good stuff my man. Come check out me bows if you've got a minute