The Leather Element | All About Chicago Screws
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- Опубліковано 26 лип 2024
- Today's video covers everything about Chicago screws! These posts and screws are great options for a variety of projects from belts and rifle slings to bags and purses. Chuck's tip, add a little bit of glue to the post before attaching it to your project so that the screws don't eventually work themselves loose.
Check out all of our options for Chicago screws here: www.weaverleathersupply.com/p... - Навчання та стиль
It's so nice having someone like Chuck around to teach stuff like this, especially for those of us who don't have anyone to help. And his outtakes and bloopers are so funny I actually spit my coffee out just watching. Thanks so much for all that you do, Chuck.
I fully agree .I`ve learned , and am still learning at age 73 from Chuck , I owe him so much 👍👍
I was at work when my chapps decided to snap a string. Knowing we had some Chicago screws, I grabbed a hole punch and put two screws in on both ends. They didn't hold. So I went in and did it again... my boss chimes in out if the blue. "Put some show sheen on the screw first." Over fifteen years later those two screws are still holding strong. I haven't bucked bales in a long time, but they became my wood cutting chapps and have protected me from being cut a few times now, with one really good save. Gotta love leather and it's durability.
For those that don't know, show sheen is basically expensive hair spray labeled for animals and used when showing. So if you don't have any glue you can use your girlfriend's or wife's hair spray and put a quick squirt on it.
I'm a girl doing projects and no dad to ask. Thank you so much♡
Chuck Dorsett is everybody's dad
Good morning Chuck from Missouri.
I just completed a BFR bandoleer holster on wednesday that I used almost exclusively Chicago screws to assemble. The customer is in a cold climate and will need to adjust for additional clothing layers and the screws were just the ticket to build in the flexibility. I liked them so much they will probably become a go-to now even if adjustment is not the main reason. I have a video of it on my channel if you or anyone is interested. Thanks for another great video Chuck!
Great video Chuck. Easier than drilling them, just crazy glue a nut to the screw you are trying to remove.
A Chiago screw is as with a Chicago fitting, it is standardized to fit any female thread , at one time threads were of any size or shape and nothing could be interconnected thus they made the Chicago fitting , and the Chicago screw is named to represent and standard thread that you could buy in a hardwood store like the one you showed to lengthen your post, another name for a Chicago screw is a set bolt
Thanks very helpful using them currently. Wonderful fastener
Great to hear!
One of my favorite video's.
Glad to hear it!
Just great--again!
Idea for a leather element-how to put a rough/distressed edge on leather. Love the distressed edge for cuffs or leather bags, but what to do when you’ve used up all the natural edges around the outside of a hide?
Leather element idea: can you please do more videos on leather closures
Hi Tricia,
We would like to add more closure options to our selection so once we do that we will definitely do a video on them!
I'm suffering from cranking out all these leather strips for keychain Christmas gifts for my co-workers and family and realizing that they are way too damn thick for any rivets. These screws are literally gonna save Christmas for me.
Enjoy watching chuck and find the instructional content . I'm fairly new to this channel and may have missed this , but is there a video or a possibly of making one on make project templates ? I have seen the knife sheath one , however as a beginner I am struggling to figure out how to make template pattern for projects I have in mind . such a muliti tool cases things or that sort .
I like the idea of using white glue instead of a real thread locker fluid
OLD LEATHER SMITH here, Nice Job Chuck, 2 add-ons 1, I use Weaver's tool 4 Chicago screws
2, I like Weaver's oval punches 4 buckle tung's, they also add dress 2 Chicago screws under the head, just some things I use Chuck, thanks again 4 UR information, GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
Hey he said two different ones were his favorite that he uses on all his projects. Classic salesman, it’s like being at the state fair!
these are much better than rivets
Thank you - I want to use them to join leather and wood!
KLein tool number is 1010 cuts and strips wire cut 6-32, 8-32, 10-32, 10-24& 5-40 screws any length down to 1/8 inch
AWESOME..
thank you
Sham WOW!!
What kinds of hides do you like working with? I recently had a ton of fun working with pork belly and Peccary hides!
Excelente👍👍👍
Here I thought those were all clear but once again I am surprised about how much I didn't know!
Thank you I can’t find any videos on setting Chicago screws to join wood to leather?
I like how he always “drop that in” for every type of operation
Thanks for the show, is it luminox carbon your watch sir?
This is THE video on Chicago screws I've been hoping to find for years!!! Such a huge help!!! I do have a quick question, that I would really appreciate some help with. I love the idea of cutting out leather washers (donuts, as you called them). You mentioned using a 1/2 in. hole punch to cut out some blanks from scrap leather, and a 3/16: - 1/4" hole punch to cut out the center hole for the Chicago screw. However, on-screen as you were talking about that, I noticed a lot of blanks with a diameter that seemed larger than 1/2". I do not have a 1/2" hole punch, and I'd rather not have to buy one (or more) odd ball hole punches for cutting out leather washers. But... I DO love the idea of adding washers that are a different color to stand out from the rest of the piece as an accent. Do you know of any other way to cut out leather washer, large or small, other than a hole punch? Or would it just be exacto knife and a steady hand?
A good sharp blade, and a steady hand. You can do the "nip the corner off" tactic to create your circle. Just keep nipping the corners until it's round. Chuck's got more than one video on how to do these without a punch.
Check Amazon. They have some interchangeable diameter punches and rings. Sometimes you can find just the rings for cheap. If it's just to be used for leather washers, I'm sure they'll be good enough. Maybe not as clean of a cut. Easy to deal with
I use Chicago screws all the time. I only use solid brass, with plated steel screws the plate eventually wears off, then your only option is to use a cold blue solution or paint them. I buy 3/16ths, 1/4 and 1/2 inch screws. I also grind a small flat edge around the top screw that shows if it has a sharp edge that you cannot grab without jabbing into your leather. I have a belt sander and I've ground the screws flat by chucking into a drill and it gives a nice star burst look. If I need them black I just use a product called Brass Black and it turns the metal black and is not a paint. Oh btw, you can polish dulled brass with 000 steel wool easily.
Cold blue wears off, not as fast or noticeable. I never thought of trying to blue the steel chicago screw before. A rust bluing process would last a long time, and look good. The cold blue comment caught my attention and got me thinking about it.
@@maddawgnoll I make knives out of O1 tool steel and the super Blue doesn't want to go on evenly so I apply it using very fine Scotch Brite or 000 steel wool on O1 and S5 shock steel for axes. S5 will harden to HRC 59-61 and is tougher than any new super steels like 3V or 4V. I'm not exaggerating, it is tough. How many axes are 60 HRC hard and won't chip if it hits a nail or 1/4" spike? It is so tough you can quench it in water and it won't crack, but I recommend oil quench.
I have one ax head left that I forged from a batch of S5 my last job had a bunch of parts to make from it and they said I could have the drop offs and to blue them I had to use the Scotch Brite. You can use Super Blue to put an antique finish on brass to btw.
Hi Chuck, I`ve always bent the belt at the buckle end to fold under on the inside fleshy side of the belt so the "flap" doesn`t show on the side we see when worn . I "personally" find it looks tidier than the flap showing on the "Face" of the belt side. Would you agree its not a bad idea to do it that way rather than see the flap in view ?.
Electricians Have crimping pliers that you thread the screws into the pliers and it cuts them to the any length you want and when you screw them out it cleans the threads. Klein is one brand of pliers.
جيد جدا ومفيد شكرأ
Could you show us how to make a pair of mocassins / boots
High Weaver Leather and Mr. Chuck,
The Chicago Screw was invented by Harry Clinton Goodrich, owner, founder and major shareholder of the Chicago Screw Company .
Per Google search
Finally! Thanks for sharing this!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply
Mr. Chuck planted that bug in my brain so I had to try and find the answer 🤔
I want to update gold hardware on a jacket to black buttons right now it's a gold push in twist buttons..
3:42 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" thanks
Can you use Chicago screws on vinyl projects? I made a small in the hoop embroidery project that is a mini bag (big enough to attach to a keychain) but too small to be considered a real bag. Anyway, I was trying to figure out a way to attach rivets to put together the mini bag, but I can't see a way to attach the rivets because the inside of the mini bag is too narrow. However, could I possibly use chicago screws instead of rivets to hold the sides of the mini bag together? I know that vinyl is thinner than leather and that vinyl has a tendency to rip, but these little mini bags would really be a novelty item with some function, but not designed to place anything heavy inside the mini bag. Please advise. Thank you.
Being that I'm trained as a machinist, if I need to shorten a screw, a nut and a hacksaw will get the job done on an easier level. Of course I could use a giant machine., but there's no need.
Where can we buy Chicago screws?
Hi, I have a few questions:
I am dyeing a small entirely leather handbag (5.1” x 6.2” x 2.8”) and I want to use the dip method. I attempted this before on a test bag with a sponge and wool daubers and ended up with splotchy application. I think I want to try submerging it this time. I will be using Fiebing’s Mahogany Pro Dye. The bag’s starting color is white. I’m not looking to go super dark, ideally a would like a medium tone but I’m not picky.
1. I’ve read you can use neatsfoot oil + pro dye mix to dip in - is this okay? What’s the ratio of dye to oil? If not, is there something else I can cut the dye with? It would be a lot more cost effective because I would need to fill quite a big container to fully submerge the bag. How long should I leave it in to achieve a medium tone color?
2. Can I dye pastel yellow to mahogany through the same method? Or should I dye it with a transitional color before going for the mahogany (and if so, what color?)
3. The bags have some metal details and zippers that can’t be removed. How can I get dye off of these areas if I submerge it? They’re small, and I found on the test piece that even going in very carefully with a tiny brush lightly dipped in deglazer, it still removed some of the dye around the metal.
The bags are the Chanel CC Vanity case if you need to see a visual of where the metal parts are.
4. Can I put anything on after the resolene to fully waterproof it and/or just condition it? I am wiping the bag down with neatsfoot oil and buffing then letting that sit overnight after the dye dries, but the test bag was still a bit stiff after the resolene.
And last question - how do I deal with wool dauber shedding? Every brand dauber I’ve tried leaves bits of fuzz that end up getting stuck under/in the resolene.
Sorry for all the questions - your channel has been so so helpful as is!!
The dobber issue. Burn it before you use it. Not heavily burn, just singe the floaters.
I've used neetsfoot before dying and it helped. I use olive oil now. Learned that from Don Gonzales' UA-cam channel, it's been working great so far.
There is no way to fully waterproof leather. The best way to keep it resistant is to keep it oiled and conditioned.
Hi Stephanie,
We wouldn't recommend mixing oil and dye - Pro Dye is still alcohol based but with an oil-based dye stuff so to thin it out you would need something like Fiebing's Dye Reducer or denatured alcohol. You'll want to dip the bag in and slowly bring it right back out - you don't want to submerge it and leave it for any amount of time.
How the white or yellow bag takes the dye is completely based on the type of leather is used - we can't really give any tips other than trying it in an inconspicuous area and seeing if it achieves the color you are looking for.
To clean the hardware, we would recommend wiping down the hardware pieces as soon as the bag is removed from the dye. If it does not come off then you will likely need to use acetone or deglazer - just make sure it doesn't tarnish the metal.
As @maddawgnoll mentioned, conditioner is going to be the best way to protect the leather from the elements as it is a porous material so completely waterproofing is not very feasible.
Hopefully this information is helpful.
I've seen these an inch long and longer. What are those used for? Book Binding the pages? Or mounting knife scales? I can imagine where you would ever need one that long in normal leather projects.
We use the longer screws in our manufacturing for some of our heavy duty working tack so mostly heavy duty leather items is where the longer lengths are needed as far as in leatherworking.
Yeah... unfortunately they dont hold if not glued. So the adjustment option is out.
Do you sell material that can be used to rebuild a handle on a western knife company L sex sex handle with a stacked leather handle?
Y'all need a better lens for tighter shots.
Any recommendations for them?
Sure, but would need to know more about what system they're currently on and their budget. There's a huge price range depending.
But very quickly, what you're looking for in a lens is better minimum focus distance. In other words, how close can you put your hand in front of the lens and still allow it to focus. Some lenses you can put your hand almost against the glass, others you need to be a minimum of a couple feet away.
It's a self filming setup. He's got a couple cameras on tripods or some kind of mounts. Rather than stop, reset the equipment for a couple seconds of footage, stop again and reset. All that takes time when you're on your own. If he wasn't such a busy man I'm sure he could get closer and tighter shots without have to get more camera equipment.
@@maddawgnoll nothing is self filming. A lot of effort is put in to make this content. Assuming he doesn't want better production quality is not accurate. Tighter shots would make almost all of his video better, they're small items
How bout a video for wet forming a 🔫 pistol ???
Hi there,
We do have several videos on wet forming including a holster. We'll link it here for you - you can use these same basic steps to wet form any type of project.
ua-cam.com/play/PLzvwlO3D_z7fy1Q_hgEgkdiJz5Jry0xZK.html
We call’em *sex* *bolts* round here.
"Chicago Screws" ?? Not what we called them! We called them S*x Bolts!
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sex_bolt