Hello Diane, I'm making an Indian Blouse for saree by using basic bodice block but I have a problem and the problem is that that my block's front waist side seam is not at any angle, it is almost straight (waist size 30 inches) , so how do I make the back and front side seam angle same?
Hey Diane can you do a detailed video on darts explaining the correct size of dart to use on different body sizes or how e.g. small, medium ,large ...... etc
Am not getting the waist line up the front is about 1in taller than the back I tried it with the one dart n two dart method where did I go wrong thank you
Hello Pauline, Most probably, your front waist line is not square. it's not a problem, But it cause you the difference you have. a simple solution. When you first trace your front bodice, 1. trace from center front neck point towards the shoulder dart and stop at the dart notch 2. trace from center front waist towards waist, stop at the dart notch 2. hold the pivot and pivot part of the waist dart at the shoulder dart. UNTIL the waist is square. I hope this could help Diane
You left the back dart as it is which you said is a good thing, but if you added a little more like you did to the back side seam would that extra be added to the back dart?
Hello, In that pattern, we give a little extra to the waist only on the back, to make the side seam with the same angle, since the waist level is not going to touch the body. The reason is that when there is no cut at the waist, your side seam should be a little softer, you could even go out an extra 5 mm on each side at the waist. Adding it to the dart would make the back dart too pointy. Diane
while stitching how do we stich the darts,should we start sticthing from the punch hole indication,like deducting 1 cm from the actual dart drafting,and on the fishcut dart ,you have decreased 3mm inside so while stitching we stich to the 3mm inside dart or the actual dart drafted in bodice
Hi Santam, the easiest to sew the dart is to do it in 2 steps, start about 1cm before the waist reference & 3mm out (so the original point) and sew all the way up 1cm higher than punch hole. 2nd, start about 1cm before the waist reference & 3mm out (so the original point) and sew all the way down 1cm lower than punch hole. This way, no need to back tack because you over lap the seam. Diane
Hi Beth, yes it's common, that's why some time you you have to get a size bigger or smaller in fitted dress, but of course, you could easily add an extra measurement to both side seam. It's a good point that I will add to my video. Thanks, Diane
Diane Deziel My hips are about 10 cm bigger than my bust and about 30 cm bigger than my waist, so this explains a lot... I know I have to cut between sizes in commercial patterns (and have been mostly ignoring RTW for years because a size bigger to accommodate hips is too many sizes bigger for the waist...); but I'd never seen the creation of the standard block before.
Hi Beth, I think, the standard measurements doesn't fit most standard people, that's why I taught it was an important point, and why I did this short video. I hope now you will be able to adjust to your measure and have a perfect fit.
Hello Diane, I made my bodice block and using your pivoting darts video, I made one dart at the side just 6cm under the armhole, but when i tried to follow the steps in this video to make a dress block out of that pattern, my waist line does not create a square line with the center front anymore because of the dart placement. My question is should I create a square line as my new waist or follow the one in my pattern?
Hello Beyond Style, For the dress block, you must have the square at the waist, so you should pivot part of the side dart back at the waist until it's square. You should still have a side dart the correspond to the shoulder dart. You might like to see my pivoting video that would help you understand that doesn't matter where is the dart it's the same fit. bodice ua-cam.com/video/rqEmJb2L_8I/v-deo.html bodice ua-cam.com/video/fbeTqR5GIU0D/v-deo.htmliane
Please Ma i have a question. Is this block the same as Torso block? The ones i have seen do have two darts fronts and back.. One at princess point and d other 1.5inches apart, then d front dart closer to the side seam is somehow modified to form side panel and a dart opening forming welt pocket in a classic jacket....i dont know if am explainning this well... Pls do you have any video on such manipulation .
Hello Nwoye, Yes it's also call long torso bodice. in this 2nd video ua-cam.com/video/1mHOXYN7rBU/v-deo.html I did a second dart that give a much softer side seam. Yes the 2nd dart would be perfect place for the side panel. I must do a video on how to do the welt pkt on the princess line, pivoting the dart on top and eliminate it at the bottom Diane
hello diane, u have given me confidence,more beauty etc,I will always love you.may u throw light on off and cold shoulder pattern block.thank you ma'am
Hi Diane, I made a purchase for the set of grading rulers and awl about two weeks ago, but I haven't received any shipping information, and I can't get through to the toolfully email address.
Hi Stephanie, here is your tracking no.LX011063430CA, It was send the day of your purchase, 29 December, they told me it take 11 days, so you should have it soon, let me know, when you get it AND if you like it. Diane and tanks to let me know for the email.
Bonjour Charline, Oui je l'ai fais ua-cam.com/video/XadvkqJZHms/v-deo.html et depuis janvier, je fais tout dans les 2 langues en français dans ma nouvelle chaine Ma chaine français ua-cam.com/channels/aq7zDtYsUkGeI18qFbpTaw.htmlvideos Diane
I’m your biggest fan from Sweden! I have a question, why do you measure a cm or a couple of millimeters from the dart end when you’re making the punch holes? Can you show when you punch out the holes at some point? Thank you!
Hi Jessica, the pivot is the end of the sewing and the punch hole is the reference that you do on the fabric. In industry, they really do a hole with a drill, so you it must be inside so it doesn't show. your right, I will show it on pattern & fabric. thanks. Diane
Bonjour madame Diane. Excusez moi, j'ai une question. En voulant faire mon patron de robe, j'ai la taille plus grande que la poitrine, donc en prolongeant la ligne de poitrine vers le bas, ça entre dans mon patron. Je fais comment dans ce cas? Merci de répondre.
Bonjour Odette, tu n'auras bien sure pas de pinces à la taille, maintenant, sans voir le patron, je te dirais de terminer la recette, puis d'ouvrir le patron, du bas jusqu'au milieu de l'épaule, jusqu'à ce que tu obtienne la mesure de taille nécessaire. si tu n'est pas certaine, tu peut m'envoyer une photo de ton patron à dianedeziel@gmail.com
Bonjour Mme Diane. J'ai envoyé les images comme vous avez dit dans votre mail. Je ne sais pas si vous les avez vu. Comme ça vous pourriez m'aider à résoudre ce problème. Merci.
Bonjour Diane Merci pour ces vidéos que je trouve personnellement les meilleurs sur le net (côté explication et simplicité )j'aimerais bien vous demander si c possible de répondre les vidéos ou il y a plus de techniques, de les reprendre en français (j'ai des difficultés en langue anglaise bien que j'essaie et je ne rate aucune vidéo ) bonne continuation et merci encore une fois
J'ai maintenant une autre chaine ou je transfer mes videos en français (TOOLFULLY en français, Diane Deziel) et j'y referai également tous les vidéos. Diane
Hi Diane . I love to watch your patterns constructions. Thank you very much for uploading. I have a one problem. When you construct a pattern you take the Bust Ark and add few centimetres . I have a large body measurements do I add the same number or need to increase according to my measurements. Please advice me. Thank you.
Bonjour Rodica, merci pour tes commentaires, je viens tout juste de publier le même en français, sur ma nouvelle chaine TOOLFULLY en français, Diane Deziel
J'aime vos vidéos trop! Je suis anglaise mais j'aime regarder les vidéos en français pcq elles m'aident apprendre français. Vous-êtes québécoise? Pcq vous avez un accent que j'ai pas entendu auparavant. Merci!
On me dis çà souvent, mais j'ai bien grandie dans une petite ville en bordure de Montréal. merci pour tes commentaires, j'ai maintenant une autre chaine ou je transfer mes videos en français (TOOLFULLY en français, Diane Deziel)
Diane, I wish to say quite simply, you are MAGNIFiCENT. Love everything you’ve shared. Hugs of gratitude are being sent your way!!
Hello Diane ! Thanks you for time and tutoriales they are wonderful, I love all!!
I always enjoy your class. You are an amazing woman.
Thanks dear. Great teaching. It very very clear and practical too. Enjoy learning with you.
what id the hip measurement is bigger than the bust
Hello! Coming from SewCustom channel. I would like to learn how to do my own blocks.
Thanks for sharing
Please can you make a tailored sleeve pattern
Muy buen trabajo. Muchas Gracias desde España.😉🙋
Guess I need to get my basic bodice block right first. 😜 Thank you for all your videos.
MrCharliesangel
hi... basic bodice block is upto waist lvl?
Mano. tz I think so. Once you get that to fit right you can use it as a base for all your shirts and dresses.
Hello Diane,
I'm making an Indian Blouse for saree by using basic bodice block but I have a problem and the problem is that that my block's front waist side seam is not at any angle, it is almost straight (waist size 30 inches) , so how do I make the back and front side seam angle same?
How can I purchase a basic bodice block? Is the process of drafting explained thoroughly? Ot, is it just ready-made blocks for different sizes?
Mam would you come up with the contouring techinique and its uses
Hey Diane can you do a detailed video on darts explaining the correct size of dart to use on different body sizes or how e.g. small, medium ,large ...... etc
Am not getting the waist line up the front is about 1in taller than the back I tried it with the one dart n two dart method where did I go wrong thank you
Hello Pauline,
Most probably, your front waist line is not square. it's not a problem, But it cause you the difference you have. a simple solution.
When you first trace your front bodice,
1. trace from center front neck point towards the shoulder dart and stop at the dart notch
2. trace from center front waist towards waist, stop at the dart notch
2. hold the pivot and pivot part of the waist dart at the shoulder dart. UNTIL the waist is square.
I hope this could help
Diane
You left the back dart as it is which you said is a good thing, but if you added a little more like you did to the back side seam would that extra be added to the back dart?
Hello,
In that pattern, we give a little extra to the waist only on the back, to make the side seam with the same angle, since the waist level is not going to touch the body.
The reason is that when there is no cut at the waist, your side seam should be a little softer, you could even go out an extra 5 mm on each side at the waist. Adding it to the dart would make the back dart too pointy.
Diane
Diane Deziel thank you for the reply! I should’ve known adding it to the back would make it pointy. Thank you for the explanation.
while stitching how do we stich the darts,should we start sticthing from the punch hole indication,like deducting 1 cm from the actual dart drafting,and on the fishcut dart ,you have decreased 3mm inside so while stitching we stich to the 3mm inside dart or the actual dart drafted in bodice
Hi Santam,
the easiest to sew the dart is to do it in 2 steps, start about 1cm before the waist reference & 3mm out (so the original point) and sew all the way up 1cm higher than punch hole. 2nd, start about 1cm before the waist reference & 3mm out (so the original point) and sew all the way down 1cm lower than punch hole. This way, no need to back tack because you over lap the seam.
Diane
I'm wondering about doing the hips the same width as the bust - is this a common practice? If it is, it explains my RTW woes...
Hi Beth, yes it's common, that's why some time you you have to get a size bigger or smaller in fitted dress, but of course, you could easily add an extra measurement to both side seam. It's a good point that I will add to my video. Thanks, Diane
Diane Deziel My hips are about 10 cm bigger than my bust and about 30 cm bigger than my waist, so this explains a lot... I know I have to cut between sizes in commercial patterns (and have been mostly ignoring RTW for years because a size bigger to accommodate hips is too many sizes bigger for the waist...); but I'd never seen the creation of the standard block before.
Hi Beth, I think, the standard measurements doesn't fit most standard people, that's why I taught it was an important point, and why I did this short video. I hope now you will be able to adjust to your measure and have a perfect fit.
Good day Diane Can you draft a pattern for a dress pants please
I did, ua-cam.com/video/mKsi2UWCr7g/v-deo.html
Hello Diane, I made my bodice block and using your pivoting darts video, I made one dart at the side just 6cm under the armhole, but when i tried to follow the steps in this video to make a dress block out of that pattern, my waist line does not create a square line with the center front anymore because of the dart placement.
My question is should I create a square line as my new waist or follow the one in my pattern?
Hello Beyond Style,
For the dress block, you must have the square at the waist, so you should pivot part of the side dart back at the waist until it's square. You should still have a side dart the correspond to the shoulder dart.
You might like to see my pivoting video that would help you understand that doesn't matter where is the dart it's the same fit.
bodice ua-cam.com/video/rqEmJb2L_8I/v-deo.html bodice ua-cam.com/video/fbeTqR5GIU0D/v-deo.htmliane
Please Ma i have a question. Is this block the same as Torso block? The ones i have seen do have two darts fronts and back.. One at princess point and d other 1.5inches apart, then d front dart closer to the side seam is somehow modified to form side panel and a dart opening forming welt pocket in a classic jacket....i dont know if am explainning this well... Pls do you have any video on such manipulation .
Hello Nwoye,
Yes it's also call long torso bodice.
in this 2nd video ua-cam.com/video/1mHOXYN7rBU/v-deo.html
I did a second dart that give a much softer side seam. Yes the 2nd dart would be perfect place for the side panel.
I must do a video on how to do the welt pkt on the princess line, pivoting the dart on top and eliminate it at the bottom
Diane
You are the best. I love you
Great presentation!!!
hello diane, u have given me confidence,more beauty etc,I will always love you.may u throw light on off and cold shoulder pattern block.thank you ma'am
Good idea, I will make a video fro a nice summer blouse. Diane
Yeahhhhhh thank you. Please add the video of swayed back with the centre back onfold . Please , i would prefer your video to others
Hi Diane, I made a purchase for the set of grading rulers and awl about two weeks ago, but I haven't received any shipping information, and I can't get through to the toolfully email address.
Hi Stephanie, here is your tracking no.LX011063430CA, It was send the day of your purchase, 29 December, they told me it take 11 days, so you should have it soon, let me know, when you get it AND if you like it. Diane and tanks to let me know for the email.
Hi Diane, the parcel arrived last week. I love it, thank you very much!
Let me know I it goes and let me know if you have any specific question to use them it will be my pleasure to make video about it.
If the hip is more than bust then hw to do
Hello Neelam,
I did this one that is exactly what you need
ua-cam.com/video/1mHOXYN7rBU/v-deo.html
Diane
Bonjour est il possible d avoir la meme video traduit en francais ??😀
Bonjour Charline,
Oui je l'ai fais ua-cam.com/video/XadvkqJZHms/v-deo.html et depuis janvier, je fais tout dans les 2 langues en français dans ma nouvelle chaine Ma chaine français ua-cam.com/channels/aq7zDtYsUkGeI18qFbpTaw.htmlvideos
Diane
I 💓your channel
Very very good
I’m your biggest fan from Sweden! I have a question, why do you measure a cm or a couple of millimeters from the dart end when you’re making the punch holes? Can you show when you punch out the holes at some point? Thank you!
Hi Jessica, the pivot is the end of the sewing and the punch hole is the reference that you do on the fabric. In industry, they really do a hole with a drill, so you it must be inside so it doesn't show. your right, I will show it on pattern & fabric. thanks. Diane
Bonjour madame Diane. Excusez moi, j'ai une question. En voulant faire mon patron de robe, j'ai la taille plus grande que la poitrine, donc en prolongeant la ligne de poitrine vers le bas, ça entre dans mon patron. Je fais comment dans ce cas? Merci de répondre.
Bonjour Odette, tu n'auras bien sure pas de pinces à la taille, maintenant, sans voir le patron, je te dirais de terminer la recette, puis d'ouvrir le patron, du bas jusqu'au milieu de l'épaule, jusqu'à ce que tu obtienne la mesure de taille nécessaire. si tu n'est pas certaine, tu peut m'envoyer une photo de ton patron à dianedeziel@gmail.com
Bonjour Mme Diane. J'ai envoyé les images comme vous avez dit dans votre mail. Je ne sais pas si vous les avez vu. Comme ça vous pourriez m'aider à résoudre ce problème. Merci.
merci infiniment pour cette vidéo
Bonjour Diane
Merci pour ces vidéos que je trouve personnellement les meilleurs sur le net (côté explication et simplicité )j'aimerais bien vous demander si c possible de répondre les vidéos ou il y a plus de techniques, de les reprendre en français (j'ai des difficultés en langue anglaise bien que j'essaie et je ne rate aucune vidéo ) bonne continuation et merci encore une fois
J'ai maintenant une autre chaine ou je transfer mes videos en français (TOOLFULLY en français, Diane Deziel) et j'y referai également tous les vidéos. Diane
Hi Diane . I love to watch your patterns constructions. Thank you very much for uploading. I have a one problem. When you construct a pattern you take the Bust Ark and add few centimetres . I have a large body measurements do I add the same number or need to increase according to my measurements. Please advice me. Thank you.
Hello Concy,
No you don't have to add extra, the ease is for confort and movement and the % add is good for all size pattern.
Diane
Thank you very much Diane
Merci beaucoup pour votre gentilesse et excellent explication! Bisous
Bonjour Rodica, merci pour tes commentaires, je viens tout juste de publier le même en français, sur ma nouvelle chaine TOOLFULLY en français, Diane Deziel
Pls count inch.dont understand cm
Thank you diane.... 😘😘😘😘
THANK YOU
good
Thanks
J'aime vos vidéos trop! Je suis anglaise mais j'aime regarder les vidéos en français pcq elles m'aident apprendre français. Vous-êtes québécoise? Pcq vous avez un accent que j'ai pas entendu auparavant. Merci!
On me dis çà souvent, mais j'ai bien grandie dans une petite ville en bordure de Montréal. merci pour tes commentaires, j'ai maintenant une autre chaine ou je transfer mes videos en français (TOOLFULLY en français, Diane Deziel)
GOOD
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