Cool idea. I race RC boats and the science required is insane. Controlled chaos is more like it. Building something like this and have it work as good as you did is awesome! I want one now 😎
Martin Dinner Exactly, no idea why he wouldn’t set it up to be able to run it in reverse. Propellers don’t work that well in reverse, but would’ve kept it in the water lol
Bro, you can make those floats out of insulation foam from a hardware store and cover it in fiberglass sheets. save a ton of money on the float design. In fact, send me the file for the float shape and ill make it myself.
@@nypariah I just know this was a way of making model sailplane fuselages... getting rid of the foam left room for the electronics. I'm going to try this soon for a one off boat hull.
The best part about these videos is that you talk about what you learn from your mistakes. That's what engineering is all about. You can't be afraid of failing because, if you aren't failing sometimes, you aren't trying anything new. Keep up the good work!
give the carbon fibre tubes that hold the sponsons a fairing. you can use it for aero and rigidity. look at Unlimited class Hydroplanes for inspiration of the floats and on how to improve them. You can give them much more shape and a rail along the sides to aid with steering.
your work and videos ARE brilliant! you show clearly the need for testing and research & development (R&D) in any project process. carry on then, cheers!!
Love your videos....keep it up...... I may have an idea for the carbon fiber supports for floats... You can insert a balsa wood piece in the carbon fibre support to make it rigid... And also, I think you should consider tweaking(adjusting) the design of the hydroplane...I think the floats need to be a little bit more aggressive in their angles, because the boat is very light(In the video the boat was already skimming on the water even at the speeds you got, which were fast but not as fast as the speed of world record rc hydroplane)........At higher speeds the hydroplane may launch into the air(like the real manned record holder hydroplane ) if the angle of the floats is not very aggressive......and the more aggresive floats will reduce air drag too...... And maybe you should try redesigning the entire hydroplane......you can make the main body slimmer and aggresive...and also I think you should make the main body tapered(reducing diameter gradually towards the end) and make the rear of the main body very slim(but if you will do this, do it gradually)...this will reduce air drag.....((reducing air drag may seem unnecessary, but trust me, it will increase performance,if done to many parts of the hydroplane which are out of water))...also if you cant find a way to taper the large pvc pipe...you can 3d print different sections of the main body and glue them together...... And you can also make the dog tooth( I'm talking about the 90° bend at the bottom of the floats...a similar structure is called a dog tooth in wing design of aircraft, so i'm gonna call that 90° bend a dog tooth) height a little less........ And if you are considering composite materials...you should just make the floats and the tail skid out of composites as they are the sections exposed to large amounts of force.......... I'm sorry if you got confused by the extensive use of brackets......
Swearing in German, aye? How very elegant indeed! I, being German, have taken the habit of swearing in French (unless I am in France, of course), while many of my French friends tend to swear in English - which is the very essence of elegance: "Fœuque a dœuque!"
@@raymondo162 'right; given the French accent, "œu" would sound like close to the Scandinavian "ø" or like the "u" in "purse" or the "i" in "skirt" (either without any hint of "r", just like Her Majesty the Queen would pronounce it; or one of her posher subjects).
I’m thoroughly enjoying the boat series! All of my RC experience is with air, but it’s fun to play armchair engineer while watching these, seeing your designs perform and speculating what might help them work better. I agree, a change in pitch angle should keep the stern from lifting. Pusher aircraft models with dorsal power units usually aim the thrust line toward the center of mass to prevent pitch changes under power. With a hydro however, that would put more load on the sponsons and tail skid, possibly reducing speed. Hmmm... but that’s why I like these episodes! They make me think. ;-)
I thought the same thing, only with a servo to control the pitch angle of the propellers, tied electronically to the throttle, with a dose of velocity in the algorithm.
Or maybe with a gyro setup that varies the thrust angle based on the pitch angle of the boat itself. That way you could keep a relatively balanced load on the sponsons and tail plane. Ha, we’re going to give James a headache. ;-)
@@gryfandjane Haha! Yeah, but he'll survive a little headache. :) The gyro setup you mentioned would be perfect, and completely adjustable from the controller.
Looked to be on step the first run. When choosing sponson spars always go fat and hollow for stiffness as solid ones are bendy. Your rudder is also too close to the transom before you install the new one sharpen the bottom of the V-shape or it will raise the transom out of the water more than you anticipate as it is a lifting surface as well. Locate the outrigger calc on RCG to get a good baseline on what works or what doesn't. Afraid to leave too much info as I build very fast riggers but not sure how you feel about having the answers rather than discovering them yourself. Either way, good luck, a much bigger lake will be a good start or a parachute. lol. Fantastic job, you got this!
Love this series. One of life’s little fun pleasures is discovering a well developed channel such as yours, down the road a little bit were you don’t have to wait to see the next video. I’ll be dedicating some time to get current with your channel for sure.
How are the new parts coming along? looking forward to another video on this project! (Airboats are fun in snow also with a flat bottom hull! You can get some crazy drifts and sharp tuns on snow.)
James, couple of ideas: 1) you could use plasticard and poly cement to make replacement sponsons. I've used this on a car I designed and it's pretty tough if you make it into a monocoque. 2) if you want it to have brakes, you could have a splitting rudder thing (not for steering, unless you want to) on the back of the keel thing. I experimented with a similar thing on my jet boat working long a horizontal plane but I'd suggest going vertical seeing as you can have attitude issues with this model! Keep up the great work!
just an idea....try to 3d print brackets that can hold the carbon fiber tubes and attach those 3d printed parts onto the wood with screws...that way if you have more area of contact between the carbon fiber rods and body....also i think the "shaking" of the floats is because of only having 2 carbon fiber rods? maybe adding a 3rd one that's not parallel to the other 2 would be helpful
I'm not sure how much the brackets would help, but the third rod out of plane is brilliant! Also, switching from a round cross section tube to an oval profile will help avoid harmonics.
@@ferb7452 hmm maybe some packing tape Around it like build a mold fill it with foam packing tape Around that.. Then build an outbreak Shell of carbon or maybe a different foam come to think expanding foam is quite pourus EPP would be the best way to go.
Carve the sponsons from xps or polystyrene and add a layer of fibreglass. Wood inserts can be used as attachment points for the spars. So quick to make and you can make a few interchangeable ones to test shapes very easily
Maybe if you put the rear propeller with more pitch than the front one you get more speed, probably it is working at less efficiency than the front one because the air enters it faster.
Nice project, I think you should center your rudder for balance purposes especially when getting out of the water at high speed, this should reduce vibration as well, you could even prolongate the rudder behind your thrusters for more control
True, boats don't have brakes, but after it hit the wall, it had lots of breaks. Amazing project, Ihave not seen anything yet, so I hope you carry this on make that record run!! Go for it!
design is there, you just need to change some materials and put the rudder in the center :) and if you need the nose to do some downforce for higher speeds, just make the nosecone flat on the top so the air push it down, if needed :)
Despite the crash, this was great! You are well on your way. Make some changes and try again. If possible, would you show how you connect the battery(s) and how the hull is waterproof? Take care and keep trying!!!
Would you consider making something less advanced too, like a FPV duck decoy? If you want to go all high tech, a sonar fish finder would probably fit. Deeper CHIRP looks good.
Twin motors on the front floats pulling instead of pushing would make it more stable at speed, and a wing instead of bars would create an ekranoplan lift up front while a hydrofoil could be used to lift the stern
Just a thought, what about a spring-loaded braking system on the rudder similar to a split tail rudder in an aircraft. Minimal moving parts and can be activated by your radio by switch or when you completely decelerate and hit reverse on your radio. Just food for thought guys and I love your channel!
The vertical strut mounting the motors should be faired, primarily for better air inflow to the rear propeller. You may also need to vary the motor rpm's at max power to be sure both motors and propellers absorb max power. The rear prop has more pitch, so equal motor rpms may not actually max out power on both motors. You should also fair the struts that mount the forward sponsons. Greg
Maybe goof around with an airboat from Aquacraft to...um, tune your instincts. Before the next big run. Forget the record, just have fun fleshing out this concept.
Looking forward to the rebuild and new mods being implemented. Something to consider on the bottom of the sponsons is a layer of lexan to give strength and less friction on the underside.
With the floats. Maybe make the bottom like stronger bass wood. And maybe fill them with expansion foam. This will make them a bit heavier but more durable and won't sink if punctured.
Your videos are an inspiration to budding engineers and enquiring minds. I wish they ( and KiWi Co ) were around when I and my children were growing up. Ideal lockdown entertainment and education.
So glad I found your channel. I had a similar project in mind but this makes all the trying out and destroying stuff obsolete. So thanks for saving me a lot of time and money.
Well done James, this is getting a bit more like it - it was certainly beginning to 'go places' on one of the runs! I still think water props would be better (perhaps make another version for a direct comparison), & of-course add a water brake, as the speeds you want to achieve, it ain't going to stop quick!
A tip, maybe not a good one, but your sponson connecting rods could do with a cross beam going at a 45° so upon speed changes this will create tension and stiffen the whole assembly.
This reminds me of when I crashed our River Patrol Boat just east of Vĩnh Long in November ‘68. Two of our troop were killed of course but the locals taught me some great farming techniques
The air in the sponsons expands & contracts with temperature changes, this puts pressure on the wooden joints causing them to fail. You could make a vent hole in the top of each sponson, that will be sealed with duct tape when the boat is on the water. It should help prevent leaks & allow inspection to check if any water has seeped in. Plywood doesn’t like to be wet & I doubt that you painted the internals.
Me again. Your thrust line does need adjustment but your rear planing surface is also too large and looks to be at too high an angle as well. I like where this is going! Can't wait to see the next version.
Change angle on the thrust, make new pontoons out of foam, triangulate the rods, skip the 3dprinted points (they cause big drag and cause alot of stress). A proper step will be enough to barely skim the surface👍😀 IF the arse still rises, consider just going why not and add some down force 😁
I was looking forward to this video, and I was not disappointed. It looked really great up on those points, and you have certainly taught me something new. Excellent work and best wishes for the rebuild. Looking forward to the next video!
One last thing, why doesn't use some EDF on the center of the boat? something like the old Mig's. This would reduce the torque that the top mounted motors are creating. Putting the rudder on the back of this air flow should also provide a great turning force
Rudder should be behind the props not in the water. Rudders work best when they direct the flow of water which is why they are usually behind the prop in the water on but in this case make the rudder direct the air behind the prop like an air boat. This will also reduce drag in the water picking up a little speed in the process. And to avoid wet shoes can't you make the ESCs spin the motors in reverse or at least one motor?
Lol. My grandma was from Luxembourg. I learned quite a few cuss words in Luxembourgish from her during my childhood. Telemarketers were always fun. She was very hard at hearing and they usually had very strong accents. So that combined with her accent meant the conversation usually ended in them being cussed out in Luxembourgish. Haha.
I'm glad I subbed, you're doing something I've always wanted to do after seeing fast RC boats as a kid! I think you may not want to move away from balsa so soon for your sponsons. Properly reinforced on the inside by glued perpendicular balsa pieces (can't remember the term) to distribute structural loads, and on the outside by a couple layers of carbon fiber, I'm sure they would fare out okay. You really want to keep your sponsons as light/buoyant as possible in order to avoid front flips. I would suggests you take a look at and mimic Igor Negoda's method, which has served him well on very fast and heavy turbojet models. If balsa turns out to be too time consuming, sliced polystyrene/polypropylene in a carbon/glass fiber shell also works wonders, is fairly buoyant and probably easier to achieve laminar flow with.
Well done James! Looking forward to the next - and improved - speed demon! BTW, it must be very hot in the UK - I see you sporting your latest "sun-bleached" hairdo!! :)
An idea if you need more stability is instead of making a trimaran like you did, would be a hybrid, between monohull and catamaran. Most speed boat are like that, so you would have two full for stability in the bow, that eventual fuses together with main fuselage, but you would have just on hull touching the water in the rear. ( btw I’m naval engineering student, so if you need any help, I would morem than glad to help you out )
very interesting project. Have you considered mounting the motors in a Y configuration, both facing the same direction and using differential thrust for steering, eliminating the need for a rudder? Was also thinking about your hydrofoil problem. You could go with at least 2 different styles. The hydrofoils need to deploy on the same plane as the hull (parallel to the hull) so you could go straight linear as with a pneumatic or hydraulic cylinder, (this could be mimicked with a servo) or rotational motion, keeping the foil parallel with the hull. This could also be done with servos. Looking forward to next video. Hope these ideas help or inspire better ideas. God bless, stay well.
This is exactly what it's all about yes I know there may be many more "OH Dears" along the way but Everything is experimental. Now onto your boat "Oh Dear" is her name mate? Well for one I'm not entirely convinced the double prop is the way to go "Maybey". I was thinking dual props mounted separate on each side in back but thinking a air-foil type wing top & back on the main fuselage to keep it down After the lift. Front sponsons can be re-used & Kevlar glass & resin used on their outsides for strength with alloy brackets to attatch them. One good thing is your boat maneuvered very well & you didn't break the rudder! Carry on Mate Give it a Go or we may never know. 👍👍💛 Subscribed🔔
Change the spars for the sponsons to a wing and use surface/ground effect to reduce the membrane friction between the water and the skin of the vehicle. Perhaps also move the motors forward by about 150mm to increase the trailing effect of the rudder.
Definitely want to experiment with new props on the next one. The only reason I’ve been using these is they’re the only CCW and CW props I could find in these sizes!
I built up a biplane and mounted two motors in the front and rear of the top wing. It pitched down badly, even with excessive thrust angle corrections. Another thing to consider, you can hear the prop stalling out as you start to increase speed. I can only imagine this is much worse with how close the motors are. Use a smaller prop up front and give the rear prop more pitch. That was the front motor moves air up to speed and in the right direction, and the rear will be that more efficient and the larger size will help keep it from stalling. On my setup, if I ran each motor up (I was running 11x7 props, front one conventional rear one reversed rotation) and then added them together, it pulled 550watts. Now running both at the same time, I could only get 350 watts total. I eventually fixed this by putting a 9" prop on the front (I forget the size) and an 11x7 reversed pitch on the rear. This gave me over 450 watts with both motors running and near 500 watts with them running separate. I think I was making around 6lbs of thrust on a 3lb airplane. I actually do have a few videos on my channel of it before I detroyed it. Under "fast" acceleration, I would put full up elevator into it and manage speed with throttle and then actually chop the throttle to attempt a short take off. It usually took alot because of all the downward pitch from how high the motors were mounted.
I love this series of videos! However I do question going from PVC pipes and balsa/plywood to carbon fiber - kinda like going from 3rd grade to grad courses!!! Why not try vacuum bagging polyester??? This way you do it using the shop vac you probably have already!!! Just a suggestion!!!
Foam sponsons (FG Covered, of course), and angled like the hull of the Miss Budweiser Racing Boat. Remember, the farther they are apart - the more the oscillation...! Also, "Knife-Edge" the rudder, and have it angled back and tapered... That way, you don't have as much in the water when up on "Plane"! (Don't ask me how I know these things, but I've made and raced Hydrofoils in my younger years!). Haha!
Its great seeing you go through the test and development process, and im sure there will be more to come, but im wondering why you went with props, and not an edf jet for propulsion. Its a great project, keep up the great work and get this beast up to 110 or more.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed seeing the process. EDFs, with small high speed fans that have to rev at far greater speeds to create the same thrust as a larger prop/motor combo, are far less efficient generally speaking. They're great for replica jet aircraft etc but not for an application like this.
@@Project-Air Thanks for the reply, and sharing the information about the motors, props do sound better, im looking forward to the development of your machine, keep well.
I'd try filling the floats with construction foam(the type you get out of a can) for increased stiffness and also insure that the boat can't sink in case of a major leak
Carbon composites are kinda overkill for experimental stuff like this. Plus the radio reception will be shit Just go with fiberglass and as others pointed out, make the floats out of solid foam and cover it in fiberglass too
You're probably going to need a boxed truss to prevent the sponsons from going nuts on you. Basically a wing spar. But stronger. You could skeletonize that from carbon rods, the problem is the joint fasteners. With the forces you'll face at 100mph - essentially, equal to skidding on concrete - anything but metal won't stand a chance.
Love your channel you actually video taped all of the things i tryed as a kid not to mention did a much better job 89% of the time. I am terrified of being on camera.thumbs up man
May i suggest to cut the sponsons out of high density Foam, and cover it with fiber glass, or carbon cloth with epoxy. also make a diagonal between the two carbon spars. You know the strength of a triangle
Thanks to KiwiCo for making this video possible! Visit www.KiwiCo.com/ProjectAir to get 20% off everything.
😁😁
I really need to try it after my young degree. Im fed of physics now. I still 12 and doing ol.
Kiwi co doesnt transport to sri lanka.😣😓😟😢😭😭😭😭😭😭
Are you ever going to revisit this?
Were is episode 3? I want to know hpw the story if the aqua plane went
I know I shouldn't laugh, but that crash... 😂 and your reaction afterwards was gold. Keep it up! :D
whahah😂😂
Cool idea. I race RC boats and the science required is insane. Controlled chaos is more like it. Building something like this and have it work as good as you did is awesome! I want one now 😎
The second DIY god...
What about the submarine
That you built
This project really has potential. The good moments are fantastic, and the failures are all useful failures.
If you're gonna rebuild it, you can put some "air brake" like they have on planes? Probably help you slow down faster.
That's just added weight with no real application (if he doesn't turn it up to 11 again lol)
Algo change that water rudder for a air one. Air drag is much more forgivable
Or just add the ability to drive the props In reverse.
Martin Dinner Exactly, no idea why he wouldn’t set it up to be able to run it in reverse.
Propellers don’t work that well in reverse, but would’ve kept it in the water lol
Use ESC`s with reverse on airboats ;)
Bro, you can make those floats out of insulation foam from a hardware store and cover it in fiberglass sheets. save a ton of money on the float design. In fact, send me the file for the float shape and ill make it myself.
+1 for fiberglass it would be perfect for this project.
Once the epoxy has cured you can then pour acetone into them to dissolve the foam and voila... light, hollow sponsons!
@@nypariah I just know this was a way of making model sailplane fuselages... getting rid of the foam left room for the electronics. I'm going to try this soon for a one off boat hull.
@@AlymerKiteboy Better to keep the foam so any holes will not fill it with water.
@@macrumpton he's going for max speed, so minimum weight, no reason for leaks in a glass sponson.
The best part about these videos is that you talk about what you learn from your mistakes. That's what engineering is all about. You can't be afraid of failing because, if you aren't failing sometimes, you aren't trying anything new. Keep up the good work!
Right on!
I bet you were one of those kids who couldn't resist jumping into puddles...
I still wanna jump in puddles, but it`s frowned upon when you`re almost 40..
@@afrog2666 it doesn't have to be...
@@afrog2666 No it isn’t. Keep jumping!
give the carbon fibre tubes that hold the sponsons a fairing. you can use it for aero and rigidity. look at Unlimited class Hydroplanes for inspiration of the floats and on how to improve them. You can give them much more shape and a rail along the sides to aid with steering.
Cash looked deliberate. You both concluded that much of the craft needed completely rebuilding in different materials.
your work and videos ARE brilliant! you show clearly the need for testing and research & development (R&D) in any project process. carry on then, cheers!!
Love your videos....keep it up......
I may have an idea for the carbon fiber supports for floats...
You can insert a balsa wood piece in the carbon fibre support to make it rigid...
And also, I think you should consider tweaking(adjusting) the design of the hydroplane...I think the floats need to be a little bit more aggressive in their angles, because the boat is very light(In the video the boat was already skimming on the water even at the speeds you got, which were fast but not as fast as the speed of world record rc hydroplane)........At higher speeds the hydroplane may launch into the air(like the real manned record holder hydroplane ) if the angle of the floats is not very aggressive......and the more aggresive floats will reduce air drag too......
And maybe you should try redesigning the entire hydroplane......you can make the main body slimmer and aggresive...and also I think you should make the main body tapered(reducing diameter gradually towards the end) and make the rear of the main body very slim(but if you will do this, do it gradually)...this will reduce air drag.....((reducing air drag may seem unnecessary, but trust me, it will increase performance,if done to many parts of the hydroplane which are out of water))...also if you cant find a way to taper the large pvc pipe...you can 3d print different sections of the main body and glue them together......
And you can also make the dog tooth( I'm talking about the 90° bend at the bottom of the floats...a similar structure is called a dog tooth in wing design of aircraft, so i'm gonna call that 90° bend a dog tooth) height a little less........
And if you are considering composite materials...you should just make the floats and the tail skid out of composites as they are the sections exposed to large amounts of force..........
I'm sorry if you got confused by the extensive use of brackets......
Swearing in German, aye? How very elegant indeed!
I, being German, have taken the habit of swearing in French (unless I am in France, of course), while many of my French friends tend to swear in English - which is the very essence of elegance: "Fœuque a dœuque!"
Putain de merde.
eejit - it's spelt: ferk a derk, unless you live in landan in which case it's: fack a dack
@@raymondo162 'right; given the French accent, "œu" would sound like close to the Scandinavian "ø" or like the "u" in "purse" or the "i" in "skirt" (either without any hint of "r", just like Her Majesty the Queen would pronounce it; or one of her posher subjects).
I’m thoroughly enjoying the boat series! All of my RC experience is with air, but it’s fun to play armchair engineer while watching these, seeing your designs perform and speculating what might help them work better. I agree, a change in pitch angle should keep the stern from lifting. Pusher aircraft models with dorsal power units usually aim the thrust line toward the center of mass to prevent pitch changes under power. With a hydro however, that would put more load on the sponsons and tail skid, possibly reducing speed. Hmmm... but that’s why I like these episodes! They make me think. ;-)
I thought the same thing, only with a servo to control the pitch angle of the propellers, tied electronically to the throttle, with a dose of velocity in the algorithm.
Or maybe with a gyro setup that varies the thrust angle based on the pitch angle of the boat itself. That way you could keep a relatively balanced load on the sponsons and tail plane. Ha, we’re going to give James a headache. ;-)
@@gryfandjane Haha! Yeah, but he'll survive a little headache. :) The gyro setup you mentioned would be perfect, and completely adjustable from the controller.
Good luck with the modifications! Looking forward to seeing you brake that record.
Looked to be on step the first run. When choosing sponson spars always go fat and hollow for stiffness as solid ones are bendy. Your rudder is also too close to the transom before you install the new one sharpen the bottom of the V-shape or it will raise the transom out of the water more than you anticipate as it is a lifting surface as well. Locate the outrigger calc on RCG to get a good baseline on what works or what doesn't. Afraid to leave too much info as I build very fast riggers but not sure how you feel about having the answers rather than discovering them yourself. Either way, good luck, a much bigger lake will be a good start or a parachute. lol. Fantastic job, you got this!
Love this series. One of life’s little fun pleasures is discovering a well developed channel such as yours, down the road a little bit were you don’t have to wait to see the next video. I’ll be dedicating some time to get current with your channel for sure.
How are the new parts coming along? looking forward to another video on this project! (Airboats are fun in snow also with a flat bottom hull! You can get some crazy drifts and sharp tuns on snow.)
James, couple of ideas:
1) you could use plasticard and poly cement to make replacement sponsons. I've used this on a car I designed and it's pretty tough if you make it into a monocoque.
2) if you want it to have brakes, you could have a splitting rudder thing (not for steering, unless you want to) on the back of the keel thing. I experimented with a similar thing on my jet boat working long a horizontal plane but I'd suggest going vertical seeing as you can have attitude issues with this model!
Keep up the great work!
just an idea....try to 3d print brackets that can hold the carbon fiber tubes and attach those 3d printed parts onto the wood with screws...that way if you have more area of contact between the carbon fiber rods and body....also i think the "shaking" of the floats is because of only having 2 carbon fiber rods? maybe adding a 3rd one that's not parallel to the other 2 would be helpful
I'm not sure how much the brackets would help, but the third rod out of plane is brilliant! Also, switching from a round cross section tube to an oval profile will help avoid harmonics.
Did you keep working on this? I’d love to see more, I think it had a lot of potential
Don’t worry, next video will be “in a few weeks time”
Yes he is, he posted on his instagram an update, he put an actual jet engine on top and 3d printed the front sponsons, that’s all I know so far
With the new Floats how about filling them with expanding foam so if you do have another breach they wont fill up with water.
RC LabBotics expanding foam needs to be sealed as the water will force its way in to the foam
Been there done that☹️☹️
@@ferb7452 hmm maybe some packing tape Around it like build a mold fill it with foam packing tape Around that.. Then build an outbreak Shell of carbon or maybe a different foam come to think expanding foam is quite pourus EPP would be the best way to go.
Carve the sponsons from xps or polystyrene and add a layer of fibreglass. Wood inserts can be used as attachment points for the spars. So quick to make and you can make a few interchangeable ones to test shapes very easily
Maybe if you put the rear propeller with more pitch than the front one you get more speed, probably it is working at less efficiency than the front one because the air enters it faster.
Nice project, I think you should center your rudder for balance purposes especially when getting out of the water at high speed, this should reduce vibration as well, you could even prolongate the rudder behind your thrusters for more control
True, boats don't have brakes, but after it hit the wall, it had lots of breaks. Amazing project, Ihave not seen anything yet, so I hope you carry this on make that record run!! Go for it!
Add fiberglass on the balsa will be a Big improvement
I'm really excited to see the continuation of this series
Still working on this project? Can’t wait to see the rebuild!
design is there, you just need to change some materials and put the rudder in the center :) and if you need the nose to do some downforce for higher speeds, just make the nosecone flat on the top so the air push it down, if needed :)
Despite the crash, this was great! You are well on your way. Make some changes and try again. If possible, would you show how you connect the battery(s) and how the hull is waterproof? Take care and keep trying!!!
Would you consider making something less advanced too, like a FPV duck decoy?
If you want to go all high tech, a sonar fish finder would probably fit. Deeper CHIRP looks good.
Twin motors on the front floats pulling instead of pushing would make it more stable at speed, and a wing instead of bars would create an ekranoplan lift up front while a hydrofoil could be used to lift the stern
Looks great and very interesting. How about a suspension for the floats? Tilting the floats when in a turn?
Just a thought, what about a spring-loaded braking system on the rudder similar to a split tail rudder in an aircraft. Minimal moving parts and can be activated by your radio by switch or when you completely decelerate and hit reverse on your radio. Just food for thought guys and I love your channel!
The vertical strut mounting the motors should be faired, primarily for better air inflow to the rear propeller. You may also need to vary the motor rpm's at max power to be sure both motors and propellers absorb max power. The rear prop has more pitch, so equal motor rpms may not actually max out power on both motors. You should also fair the struts that mount the forward sponsons. Greg
Right now sounds like a good time to ressurect that boat ! I'd love to see it go twice as fast !
Maybe goof around with an airboat from Aquacraft to...um, tune your instincts. Before the next big run. Forget the record, just have fun fleshing out this concept.
Looking forward to the rebuild and new mods being implemented. Something to consider on the bottom of the sponsons is a layer of lexan to give strength and less friction on the underside.
This project is brilliant, best of luck with the next design!
Maybe you should try building a boatplane named :Saunders roe princess. I really wanna see this build and see how it would work in reality
Love your content James. Missing your cute dark hair though...
Yeah he’s well fit
he cute innit
With the floats. Maybe make the bottom like stronger bass wood. And maybe fill them with expansion foam. This will make them a bit heavier but more durable and won't sink if punctured.
Finally I’ve been waiting for this video for so long
Your videos are an inspiration to budding engineers and enquiring minds.
I wish they ( and KiWi Co ) were around when I and my children were growing up.
Ideal lockdown entertainment and education.
Thank you to you and Kiwico for making this video! :)
So glad I found your channel. I had a similar project in mind but this makes all the trying out and destroying stuff obsolete. So thanks for saving me a lot of time and money.
Forget to mention. The project is legit and your videos awesome. Keep on it
Always love it when a mate talks you into sending it !
Well done James, this is getting a bit more like it - it was certainly beginning to 'go places' on one of the runs! I still think water props would be better (perhaps make another version for a direct comparison), & of-course add a water brake, as the speeds you want to achieve, it ain't going to stop quick!
A tip, maybe not a good one, but your sponson connecting rods could do with a cross beam going at a 45° so upon speed changes this will create tension and stiffen the whole assembly.
Love you work. Have you thought about putting the rubbers behind the propes. Less drag in the water.
what happened to this project? why did you discontinue it?
This reminds me of when I crashed our River Patrol Boat just east of Vĩnh Long in November ‘68. Two of our troop were killed of course but the locals taught me some great farming techniques
The air in the sponsons expands & contracts with temperature changes, this puts pressure on the wooden joints causing them to fail. You could make a vent hole in the top of each sponson, that will be sealed with duct tape when the boat is on the water. It should help prevent leaks & allow inspection to check if any water has seeped in. Plywood doesn’t like to be wet & I doubt that you painted the internals.
Me again. Your thrust line does need adjustment but your rear planing surface is also too large and looks to be at too high an angle as well. I like where this is going! Can't wait to see the next version.
Change angle on the thrust, make new pontoons out of foam, triangulate the rods, skip the 3dprinted points (they cause big drag and cause alot of stress). A proper step will be enough to barely skim the surface👍😀
IF the arse still rises, consider just going why not and add some down force 😁
great video, can you use polystyrene for the floats instead of wood to stop them taking on water?
I was looking forward to this video, and I was not disappointed. It looked really great up on those points, and you have certainly taught me something new. Excellent work and best wishes for the rebuild. Looking forward to the next video!
Thank you! Yes I'm pleased with the progress and looking forward to the next test too
One last thing, why doesn't use some EDF on the center of the boat? something like the old Mig's.
This would reduce the torque that the top mounted motors are creating. Putting the rudder on the back of this air flow should also provide a great turning force
Good work! I think learning by doing is not just very effective, it's a lot more fun. Keep it up!
A very quality looking result I have to say you are impressive
I very much appreciate your perseverance.
Carve the floats out of xps and then Fiberglas them. Even if they get a hole the foam will still provide lift
Good Luck James, I'm rooting for you! Best of regards, Dave
Rudder should be behind the props not in the water. Rudders work best when they direct the flow of water which is why they are usually behind the prop in the water on but in this case make the rudder direct the air behind the prop like an air boat. This will also reduce drag in the water picking up a little speed in the process. And to avoid wet shoes can't you make the ESCs spin the motors in reverse or at least one motor?
I learned a lot from the experiment to improve my design. Thanks for the effort and time!
Lol. My grandma was from Luxembourg. I learned quite a few cuss words in Luxembourgish from her during my childhood. Telemarketers were always fun. She was very hard at hearing and they usually had very strong accents. So that combined with her accent meant the conversation usually ended in them being cussed out in Luxembourgish. Haha.
What happened with this?
I'm glad I subbed, you're doing something I've always wanted to do after seeing fast RC boats as a kid!
I think you may not want to move away from balsa so soon for your sponsons. Properly reinforced on the inside by glued perpendicular balsa pieces (can't remember the term) to distribute structural loads, and on the outside by a couple layers of carbon fiber, I'm sure they would fare out okay. You really want to keep your sponsons as light/buoyant as possible in order to avoid front flips. I would suggests you take a look at and mimic Igor Negoda's method, which has served him well on very fast and heavy turbojet models. If balsa turns out to be too time consuming, sliced polystyrene/polypropylene in a carbon/glass fiber shell also works wonders, is fairly buoyant and probably easier to achieve laminar flow with.
You should make the pontoons out of inflation foam they would be much stronger and impossible to leak, simple is always better
Well done young fellow-me-lad! Enjoyed your enthusiasm. Keep it up. Thanks.
Cool! When will be the next rocket?
Really love your rocket stuff
Well done James! Looking forward to the next - and improved - speed demon! BTW, it must be very hot in the UK - I see you sporting your latest "sun-bleached" hairdo!! :)
Love your videos get me thru quarantine
An idea if you need more stability is instead of making a trimaran like you did, would be a hybrid, between monohull and catamaran. Most speed boat are like that, so you would have two full for stability in the bow, that eventual fuses together with main fuselage, but you would have just on hull touching the water in the rear.
( btw I’m naval engineering student, so if you need any help, I would morem than glad to help you out )
what software you used for making plans and editing video you are pure greatness
when is the next video on this series?
very interesting project. Have you considered mounting the motors in a Y configuration, both facing the same direction and using differential thrust for steering, eliminating the need for a rudder? Was also thinking about your hydrofoil problem. You could go with at least 2 different styles. The hydrofoils need to deploy on the same plane as the hull (parallel to the hull) so you could go straight linear as with a pneumatic or hydraulic cylinder, (this could be mimicked with a servo) or rotational motion, keeping the foil parallel with the hull. This could also be done with servos. Looking forward to next video. Hope these ideas help or inspire better ideas. God bless, stay well.
This is exactly what it's all about yes I know there may be many more "OH Dears" along the way but Everything is experimental. Now onto your boat "Oh Dear" is her name mate? Well for one I'm not entirely convinced the double prop is the way to go "Maybey". I was thinking dual props mounted separate on each side in back but thinking a air-foil type wing top & back on the main fuselage to keep it down After the lift. Front sponsons can be re-used & Kevlar glass & resin used on their outsides for strength with alloy brackets to attatch them. One good thing is your boat maneuvered very well & you didn't break the rudder! Carry on Mate Give it a Go or we may never know.
👍👍💛 Subscribed🔔
Change the spars for the sponsons to a wing and use surface/ground effect to reduce the membrane friction between the water and the skin of the vehicle.
Perhaps also move the motors forward by about 150mm to increase the trailing effect of the rudder.
Well Done 👍🏼 you’re getting there
Good luck with the mods! And thanks for the crash - worth it for the entertainment value 🤣
Very nice! A tip: Retire those Master airscrews and install Ramoser varioPROP instead. These can be fine tuned in pitch.
Definitely want to experiment with new props on the next one. The only reason I’ve been using these is they’re the only CCW and CW props I could find in these sizes!
I built up a biplane and mounted two motors in the front and rear of the top wing. It pitched down badly, even with excessive thrust angle corrections.
Another thing to consider, you can hear the prop stalling out as you start to increase speed. I can only imagine this is much worse with how close the motors are. Use a smaller prop up front and give the rear prop more pitch. That was the front motor moves air up to speed and in the right direction, and the rear will be that more efficient and the larger size will help keep it from stalling.
On my setup, if I ran each motor up (I was running 11x7 props, front one conventional rear one reversed rotation) and then added them together, it pulled 550watts. Now running both at the same time, I could only get 350 watts total. I eventually fixed this by putting a 9" prop on the front (I forget the size) and an 11x7 reversed pitch on the rear. This gave me over 450 watts with both motors running and near 500 watts with them running separate. I think I was making around 6lbs of thrust on a 3lb airplane.
I actually do have a few videos on my channel of it before I detroyed it. Under "fast" acceleration, I would put full up elevator into it and manage speed with throttle and then actually chop the throttle to attempt a short take off. It usually took alot because of all the downward pitch from how high the motors were mounted.
I love this series of videos! However I do question going from PVC pipes and balsa/plywood to carbon fiber - kinda like going from 3rd grade to grad courses!!! Why not try vacuum bagging polyester??? This way you do it using the shop vac you probably have already!!! Just a suggestion!!!
Have you thought about building one of the pre designed air hydrofoils? Or using a similar design. I feel like your design is creating a lot of issues
I believe personally that his goal is to try and design his own and that’s why he is not using pre designed ones, but that’s just what I like to think
the voiceover is pretty quiet compared to the rest
Yes...... I thought my speaker is clogged with dirt😂😂😂
@@yayayayya4731 Glad you mentioned it - mine actually was... 🙄
May I suggest for braking, that you make the engines reversible? Possibly at a max 30% reverse thrust.
Foam sponsons (FG Covered, of course), and angled like the hull of the Miss Budweiser Racing Boat. Remember, the farther they are apart - the more the oscillation...!
Also, "Knife-Edge" the rudder, and have it angled back and tapered... That way, you don't have as much in the water when up on "Plane"!
(Don't ask me how I know these things, but I've made and raced Hydrofoils in my younger years!). Haha!
Its great seeing you go through the test and development process, and im sure there will be more to come, but im wondering why you went with props, and not an edf jet for propulsion. Its a great project, keep up the great work and get this beast up to 110 or more.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed seeing the process. EDFs, with small high speed fans that have to rev at far greater speeds to create the same thrust as a larger prop/motor combo, are far less efficient generally speaking. They're great for replica jet aircraft etc but not for an application like this.
@@Project-Air Thanks for the reply, and sharing the information about the motors, props do sound better, im looking forward to the development of your machine, keep well.
I'd try filling the floats with construction foam(the type you get out of a can) for increased stiffness and also insure that the boat can't sink in case of a major leak
You're gone a do another video for the second attempt of the class rocket? To improve the recovery eject system ?
Carbon composites are kinda overkill for experimental stuff like this. Plus the radio reception will be shit Just go with fiberglass and as others pointed out, make the floats out of solid foam and cover it in fiberglass too
You're probably going to need a boxed truss to prevent the sponsons from going nuts on you.
Basically a wing spar. But stronger.
You could skeletonize that from carbon rods, the problem is the joint fasteners.
With the forces you'll face at 100mph - essentially, equal to skidding on concrete - anything but metal won't stand a chance.
there is a liquid they pore into the fuel tank to seal small holes. maby that can be used inside 3d prints to make them water tight
Love your channel you actually video taped all of the things i tryed as a kid not to mention did a much better job 89% of the time. I am terrified of being on camera.thumbs up man
Just an idea but you should put a rudder behind the props so that you would be steering with the thrust of the props and the rudder in the water
You should look at the entries for the America's Cup to get some better ideas for the hydrofoils and to gain speed.
May i suggest to cut the sponsons out of high density Foam, and cover it with fiber glass, or carbon cloth with epoxy.
also make a diagonal between the two carbon spars. You know the strength of a triangle
Great video! You gotta bump up the voice audio in the garage bits though. Quite difficult to hear you over the music
a brit saying "send it" is hilarious to me for some reason.
Is it allowed for Canadians only? 🤔 #thestraightpipes