Adjusting your haybine header floatation springs!
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- Опубліковано 18 тра 2023
- In today’s episode I demonstrate how to adjust the flotation springs on your Haybine to achieve the proper flotation of the header. This method will work for 469, 477, 479, 488-type haybines.
The header should require only 50-70 lb force to lift it when it is rest completely on the ground. - Навчання та стиль
Your video answered my issue with my 479. Thank you
Wow, I’ve only been farming for about four years and didn’t know about adjusting the springs which now makes sense because the head dropped down so hard as well as dragging hay. Your video on stub guards also taught me that my stub guards are out of adjustment and a cause for my hay not cutting sufficiently. I use a 467 and a 489, the principles you taught me still apply. Next year after applying your principles, I expect to have a better haying experience thanks to you.
Set your mower up as I describe and you will be amazed at how well your machine works!
Great video and also it was great to see an old machine in pristine condition , good on ya !
They still build that unit
2023 is the last year New Holland is making the Haybine.
Very informative, thank you!
Thanks. I was looking for this.
Nice video! Floatation setup is different on my mower, but I like the suitcase scale idea! May have to order one to check mine.
The scale will also help you adjust your bale tension if you are square baling.
Perfect timing, getting my first haybine tomorrow
I’ve got a lot of videos designed for people new to haybines so might want to give those a gander as well.
Thanks for the video. I am looking forward to the video on how to install the moisture meter. Thanks again.
Hey Chris, I’ve got this video all ready and will be uploading it within a few days so stay tuned!
Great video - spent 6 hours cutting 5 acres yesterday. Kept clogging under the shoe, and yes it slams down when I lower it. I'll check the weight and adjust before cutting the next field for sure. Also - your video on the Hay dogs was invaluable. Keep up the great work and THANK YOU!
Wow! It should only take you 1.5 hr with a Haybine to mow 5 acres! What is your ground speed?
The drive belt on the wobble box was split. Your video on replacing that drive belt was also amazing - went just like you said. I also just added the stub guards and will cut my last field tomorrow. We had over 5 inches of rain from the tropical storm - this last field will be the thickest yet. Thanks again for all the help.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer
Today I did 7 acres under 2 hours after your help. Installed the stub guards, adjusted the floatation springs (they were at 150 pounds), and replaced the main drive belt. Thre videos - three home runs.
Thank you sir .... I am in your debt.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer
@user-py2zx5hm1g that’s amazing! Glad to hear you got it purring and glad you found the videos helpful. That’s all I’m trying to do.
Can you possibly make a video on how to replace the tines on the haybines reel?
That sounds like a good idea!
Hey do you think a haybine could be used for windrowing buckwheat and white clover for seed production? The conditioner would obviously need to be open wide as not to shed the seeds.
I have no idea… I don’t know anything about harvesting for seeds.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer well its basically about cutting the plants when they are already mostly dry, and leaving them on the ground a few days to get the remaining moisture out, then picking it up with a combine. We've done it before with a disc mower, and the conditioner removed. But those mowers are relatively violent and shed seeds.
This one appears more gentle, but would the cuttings still flow through with the conditioner open or removed?
@@fermewilmotsagriculturebio3434 if that’s what you want, why wouldnt you just use a regular sickle bar? That would be most gentle because it would cut it and just drop it. They’re very inexpensive too and require very little power.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer I was looking into the haybine because it creates a wind row which you drive over and which is easier to pick up for a combine. Not sure a sickle mower does that.
@@fermewilmotsagriculturebio3434 I don't think it would still create a windrow without rollers because the rollers are what throw the hay back to create the windrow in the first place. You could shim the rollers to space them apart but I'd still think it would knock quite a bit of seeds off.
Quick question. On the wobble box side, I adjusted the spring to the point where it's almost all the way to the top, but I still can't lift it. Do you know if the springs lose their tension over time and it's a matter of putting new springs on? Thanks a bunch. Your videos are very helpful.
Do you have the head completely lowered so it’s sotting on the ground or is it raised?
If you take a suitcase or any other dead weight and lift it, it doesn't matter if you lift it an inch, a foot, or mile the scale is going to read about the same weight. However, if you have a spring loaded header, the more you lift it, the less the springs are going to help support that weight. For example if the unsupported header weighs 1000 lbs sitting on the ground, and you tighten the springs to lift it one inch, it may take 50 lbs on the scale to lift it the second inch, 100 lbs for the third, and 1000 lbs to lift it a foot because the springs are no longer helping. My point is it seemed to me you were lifting your header 3 or 4" to measure the 50 to 70 lbs when I was under the belief that the 50 to 70 lbs should be enough to cause a fraction of an inch clearance, but not 3 or 4." I could be wrong. What are your thoughts?
I think you ARE wrong lol. Because this is a linear or fixed rate spring. The coils are all evenly spaced and the rate of coil compression is linear. You are thinking of a variable rate spring that has different amounts of tension depending on how far it’s compressed because the coils are not all evenly spaced.
Can the reel chain be adjusted on that kind of machine
The reel speed and position can be adjusted. I’m not sure what you mean by adjusting the chain but it has an idler sprocket on it.
I'm looking at buying one of these new Holland's 479 set my Farmall tractor is only got one way hydraulics can I block that cylinder off on one side do I need a down pressure
You need the return line on a double action cylinder otherwise it won’t lower. You could put a single action cylinder in there which allows the weight of the machine to drop it when you release the pressure but then it will drop like a rock and slam down every time can be hard on it.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer thank you may I ask another question are these 469 models able to get parts available and how do you unplug one of these machines if it does get choked up
@@djmorgan8783 I’m not sure on parts availability, you’d have to check with Messicks or something but historically I’ve never had problems getting any new holland parts.
If your knives plug then raise the header and back up. With it running sometimes that will be enough to unplug. Otherwise you’ll need to shut it off and remove the plug by hand.
If your soil isn’t rocky I highly recommend converting to a stub guard system. No more plugs, you can mow faster, and it will make your Haybine mow like it never has before. I have a video on stub guards you should look into.
I've got the same 479 I'm having issues with the sickle guard scraping dirt sometime is there adjustment to lift or pitch it back I've been carrying mine with the Hydraulics a little bit
When you set the hydraulics all the way down, the head should rock back a little bit. If it stays at such an angle the guards are digging in, verify hydraulics are dropping the head down all the way by checking the position of the locking arm on the side.
At the front of the groove where the locking arms slides, there is a metal table held in place by a bolt. The bolt comes out and the metal tab can be flipped around to sit inside the groove or sit outside to the front of it. This adjusts the angle of the header.
Also adjust your flotation springs to float the header instead of running along on the skid plates.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer thank you for the knowledge I will look into it before the next cutting I did tighten the Springs down last year but I think I need to do it some more I did not check the pressure with a scale yet oh and another thing the hydraulic cylinder is not original so it could be too long but I will check that to but I figured the guards should not be digging up dirt and the rotary fingers should not be touching the ground