Hi ads can I thank you and Chas for setting my dog off barking for the last 20 minute,he kept hearing that sound and thought it was one of his toys lol cheers 🐧🐧
I love your thumbnail for this video. And the content itself, keep up the good work! I'm trying to restore a 1988 Fiat Ducato LMC motorhome rustbucket back on the road, your videos have been an inspiration on those dark moments when I'm thinking of giving up :)
Really enjoyed the video thanks! It put my mind at ease having recently bought ‘04 motorhome noticing many similar patches underneath… Hoping mine is ‘absolutely’ solid as well… Looking forward to the follow-up!
Absolutely brilliant and informative video Ads 😉. One thing I’ve noticed is that every time you take Herman to Chas, he seems to develop an issue. My solution would be stop taking him and you’ll have no further problems 👍
Interesting to see underneath Herman , mines a[so a 1999 Ducato Autotrail Cheyenne 2.8idtd with a chassis in a similar condition which also needs a small amount of touching up , good luck ! 👍
Looking forward to this, I've got a 2006 Boxer and it failed the mot on rust, think this is something I'll have to go through, interested to see the process and to get some tips and ideas on what products to use.
Evening i hope her man is still goinfiat ducato cross beang strong just wondering if you need to remove the radiator to replace the cross beam. as hours is very rusty thanks
Part 1... Confidence booster. Not sure about Bob's state of rust. We did many months of parking near the sea. Mostly it's that roll bar that looks bad. I'm looking forward to part two. Absolutely I am!
The roll bar? Do you mean the crossmember at the front which the radiators sit on? That is a common problem with Fiat Ducatos of this age. It's easy to replace them too. I ordered the crossmember in 2013 off of Ebay. The product was titled "FIAT DUCATO 1994 -2002 FRONT LOWER CROSSMEMBER" at the time and it cost £83. I rust protected it first before fitting.
@@HermanHitstheRoad I should know better to write a youtube comment before getting out of bed. I'm in Maine right now & we have a blizzard on and it's too cold to think. I meant sway bar. The bar between the rear two wheels that looks like it does something mechanically when you go around turns. No idea what it is supposed to do really but it's so rusty that it seems like it needs replacing. Somehow it seems to attach into the braking system? Right now I'm really missing our annual Morocco trip.
@@HermanHitstheRoad Thanks for the crossmember tip though, if it's gone on yours, then probably gone on mine too. The BIG thing I may need to do is to simply replace the engine. It blows too much blue smoke for my liking. I find it shameful to be driving into lovely Italian towns belching out clouds of blue smoke on the way up those hills. The German youtube guy and his Covid lockdown project of completely rebuilding a turbo diesel engine out of some random rusted out white van he purchased for probably 500 euros was inspiring. Then again here in Maine I cannot even replace a valve cover gasket properly. I put it on and oil comes out all over the place. Ugh.
So glad i found thiw video. Under my ducato looked the exact same and I have now treated with lanoguard. Although, i did have a small hole in wheel arch behind front wheel, right at the bottom where it meets the sill. I got it welded up. But got me thinking, why are there no plastic liners behind the wheel? Or at least mudflaps on mine? Did yours have any? Great video. Subscribed.
Hello 👋 I would definitely have; “a Chas” look 👀 over my van prior to it heading to the MOT centre. He sounds and looks very professional - and in the whole quite a optimistic person to be around if you had an ageing van you are trying to keep on the road for as long as possible !! He “gets” the expense side of it as well !! Definitely a guy who would be very handy to call when things go “pear shaped” Does he do this for a living - or, is he just a very good friend ?? Would make a brilliant consultant as well speaking on your behalf - if the job proved to be a big expensive one with another garage !! Thanks 🙏 Take care 😷✌🏾
Thanks for your lovely comment, James. I'm sure it'll go to his head when he reads it 😂. Chas is a very good friend of ours. Have you seen our video about him? ua-cam.com/video/98E3MHtKYFg/v-deo.html
My 7 year old Ducato has no rust on it at all, including underneath which is spotless. It has been in salt a few times but I get underneath it & wash it everytime & everytime it gets wet, with a hosepipe spray, not a jetwash. That is the secret. The front plastic wheel arches are a magnet for mud & thus salt, if you dont get a hosepipe in those regularly rust will start there soon!!
@@HermanHitstheRoad Thanks, yes the mud gets trapped in the wheel arches between the bodywork & the plastic. I took mine out & put extra coatings of Dinitrol in that whole area.
I've posted before , that i've got a slightly newer Hymer 584 (year 2000) , and i have to say my van is in a very similar condition underneath . I do have some rough spots in pretty much the same places , though in the main , these are also mainly confined to the rear end , and my slide out motorcycle rack . Both my front wheel arches appear in slightly better condition , but i think this could be due to my still having the plastic liners fitted , which appear to be missing on Herman . I'm also in the throws of fitting front mud flaps (custom jobby) . I do give the arches a regular pressure wash , and under seal top up yearly , just for the mot . I'm a little surprised you didn't show the front chassis members , as the offside front is a classic rot area on this age Ducato . But i know you've examined that area , as you showed a rather sad looking removed cross member , and you wouldn't have missed any corrosion during the removal . I had corrosion in this area , but only very light . It's interesting to note , this is despite my examining the area , it only came fully to light after i removed the front bumper . The corrosion was not visible from underneath , though as i said previously , i still have the wheel arch liners fitted . It's since being plated , and repainted , along with the front cross member you showed . I didn't need to replace it , just heavy de-rust , and paint . I also flooded the inside of the chassis with a cavity wax , both sides just. Actually i spent quite a bit of time on the front chassis , mainly inside the engine bay . I had both the intercooler and radiator removed due to other mechanical work going on , so was the perfect time to clean , de-rust , and refinish , both sides . My van had the front splash cover missing when i purchased it , which i've since managed to source and refit , though i do remove it for the mot . It was the very first thing i brought for mine after i purchased it . I totally agree , the Italians have done a really good job with the chassis , i will admit i was a little worried , mainly due to the famous Alfa-sud , which disappeared in front of your eyes . I just wish i could say the same with the German conversion , i have found a couple of what i would class as bodges in the wiring .
I think it’s good to check to make sure everything is okay. But after all that hammering around the chassis I’d treat the whole thing to stop any more rest developing. And spray wax oil in all the holes just a thought.🤷♂️
That’s a good job there. I’m curious about the chassis type as it seems the Ducato chassis with leaf springs runs all the way back. Most A class Hymers in that era had an AL-KO chassis bolted to the Ducati Cab. My buddy has a 03 544 and I’ve a 99 E510 and both have galvanised AL-KO chassis with no rust or surface corrosion.
@@HermanHitstheRoad yes I spotted that. Ours are Fiat Ducato cab and engine of course, but the chassis is AL-KO. That’s the chassis from behind the front wheels on now. The front suspension mounts, chassis rails over the wheel arches etc is the standard Ducato Cab. When Hymer AL-KO order the shortened Ducato chassis Fiat manufacture a special short tail version which is flanged and two chassis are bolted back to back. The AL-KO is a fine chassis, doesn’t have the surface corrosion issues but…..it does have the torsion bar rear axel. If not maintained, greased etc the torsion bars break as happened with mine. All good now as I replaced the bars and added a Dunlop air suspension kit. I see you’ve the air suspension kit added also 👏👏.
Hi Dan. I ordered the crossmember in 2013 off of Ebay. The product was titled "FIAT DUCATO 1994 -2002 FRONT LOWER CROSSMEMBER" at the time and it cost £83. It's pretty simple to fit. I rust protected it first before fitting. I hope that helps?
So, how are you going to lift him to apply the dimitrol? On axle stands or have you got a pit. I have an Alko chassis on mine not sure if it makes much of a difference at the front.
Thanks for your comment, Paul. We intend to use axle stands. As you can see from the video we can lay underneath without any lifting but it'll be a bit cramped.
@@HermanHitstheRoad inner and outer edges are bald therefore less than required % across the tread for legality. I’d really get a 4 wheel alignment done but also think your under inflating them
The thing is with MOT test centres is they'll chance their arm with something as silly as what they advised you on because they know you will rebook which costs £17.50 and they get paid for every fail..winner each way..the amount of fails I've seen on cars and I've looked at what they've advised on and wondered what all the fuss was about..they know the difference between surface rust and rot, they've failed you because it costs to fail you and they come off better..
Thanks for your comment. I've always found test centres honest except the one time, years ago. The problem is when you get the MOT done by a garage who will also do the servicing. Retests are free within a two week period otherwise you have to pay full price again.
@@HermanHitstheRoad I'm in Northern Ireland, retests are £17.50 each..we don't get a 2 week time window like England does..the ones in Mallusk and Larne are known for failing cars, everyone complains about them..
I think every body needs a friend like Chas, he’s a real diamond 💎 geeza.😁
Hahaha thanks The Adventure Type. We'll be pleased to read your comment 👍👍
Hi ads can I thank you and Chas for setting my dog off barking for the last 20 minute,he kept hearing that sound and thought it was one of his toys lol cheers 🐧🐧
LOL, Anthony sorry about that 🤣👍
Been searching eBay for a trusty doodah for 3 hours now. Had to settle for a spring handled chipping hammer in the end. Great video.
Haha 🤣 Do I say doodah in the video, GooseDave? I probably meant thingie-ma-bob
Great video guys,absolutely spot on.
Thanks bleachlotus 👍👍
I love your thumbnail for this video. And the content itself, keep up the good work! I'm trying to restore a 1988 Fiat Ducato LMC motorhome rustbucket back on the road, your videos have been an inspiration on those dark moments when I'm thinking of giving up :)
I'm glad our videos are helping, @partasuhari and thanks for commenting 👍
All looking good and you will soon be sorted , and on the road , Take care all ,
Thanks Paul. Herman is already on the road. We just need to stop the rot before it gets worse 👍👍
This is one SOLID video ! Thanks for all you efforts to make it .
Thanks brikfiend. Glad you enjoyed the video
Good video, Hermans in great nick for his age when hes cleaned up and treated he'll be good for many more years
Thanks Kieran 👍👍
Chas is a great mate. We all need one of them.
We all need a Chas, Michael 👍👍
Really enjoyed the video thanks! It put my mind at ease having recently bought ‘04 motorhome noticing many similar patches underneath… Hoping mine is ‘absolutely’ solid as well… Looking forward to the follow-up!
Thanks James. Glad you enjoyed it
Love it I hope my 2005 B554 is as good has yours
Stewart
Thanks Stewart. You should take a look before it's too late and the welding gear needs to come out
Absolutely brilliant and informative video Ads 😉. One thing I’ve noticed is that every time you take Herman to Chas, he seems to develop an issue. My solution would be stop taking him and you’ll have no further problems 👍
Hmm 🤔 I never thought of that, John and Nici. Thanks, all our problems are solved 👍👍🤣
In better Nic than I thought it would be for the year! :-)
Thanks Peter. There's still work to be done though 👍👍
Interesting to see underneath Herman , mines a[so a 1999 Ducato Autotrail Cheyenne 2.8idtd with a chassis in a similar condition which also needs a small amount of touching up , good luck ! 👍
Thanks Mark. Will you be doing the work on your motorhome's chassis?
Love the screwdriver and small hammer...
Thanks @KevinFoulds 👍👍
Goggles under the van, Mr Safety Owl approves 👍 👌
Thanks Mr Safety Owl 🦉 👍
Looking forward to this, I've got a 2006 Boxer and it failed the mot on rust, think this is something I'll have to go through, interested to see the process and to get some tips and ideas on what products to use.
Thanks Joe. We hope to be doing this soon
Evening i hope her man is still goinfiat ducato cross beang strong just wondering if you need to remove the radiator to replace the cross beam. as hours is very rusty thanks
Hi Jason, the radiators will need to be held up but you don't need to take them out
Part 1... Confidence booster. Not sure about Bob's state of rust. We did many months of parking near the sea. Mostly it's that roll bar that looks bad. I'm looking forward to part two. Absolutely I am!
The roll bar? Do you mean the crossmember at the front which the radiators sit on? That is a common problem with Fiat Ducatos of this age. It's easy to replace them too. I ordered the crossmember in 2013 off of Ebay. The product was titled "FIAT DUCATO 1994 -2002 FRONT LOWER CROSSMEMBER" at the time and it cost £83. I rust protected it first before fitting.
@@HermanHitstheRoad I should know better to write a youtube comment before getting out of bed. I'm in Maine right now & we have a blizzard on and it's too cold to think. I meant sway bar. The bar between the rear two wheels that looks like it does something mechanically when you go around turns. No idea what it is supposed to do really but it's so rusty that it seems like it needs replacing. Somehow it seems to attach into the braking system?
Right now I'm really missing our annual Morocco trip.
@@HermanHitstheRoad Thanks for the crossmember tip though, if it's gone on yours, then probably gone on mine too.
The BIG thing I may need to do is to simply replace the engine. It blows too much blue smoke for my liking. I find it shameful to be driving into lovely Italian towns belching out clouds of blue smoke on the way up those hills. The German youtube guy and his Covid lockdown project of completely rebuilding a turbo diesel engine out of some random rusted out white van he purchased for probably 500 euros was inspiring.
Then again here in Maine I cannot even replace a valve cover gasket properly. I put it on and oil comes out all over the place. Ugh.
So glad i found thiw video. Under my ducato looked the exact same and I have now treated with lanoguard.
Although, i did have a small hole in wheel arch behind front wheel, right at the bottom where it meets the sill. I got it welded up. But got me thinking, why are there no plastic liners behind the wheel? Or at least mudflaps on mine? Did yours have any?
Great video. Subscribed.
Thanks @stephenfaherty8999 👍👍. Ours doesn't have any plastic liners or mudflaps.
Does the hammer not crack some of the paint cover possibly leading to more rust?
Not really, @thorsteinssonh. That's not paint it's factory fitted under sealant which is rubbery
Hello 👋
I would definitely have; “a Chas” look 👀 over my van prior to it heading to the MOT centre.
He sounds and looks very professional - and in the whole quite a optimistic person to be around if you had an ageing van you are trying to keep on the road for as long as possible !!
He “gets” the expense side of it as well !!
Definitely a guy who would be very handy to call when things go “pear shaped”
Does he do this for a living - or, is he just a
very good friend ??
Would make a brilliant consultant as well speaking on your behalf - if the job proved to be a big expensive one with another garage !!
Thanks 🙏
Take care 😷✌🏾
Thanks for your lovely comment, James. I'm sure it'll go to his head when he reads it 😂. Chas is a very good friend of ours. Have you seen our video about him? ua-cam.com/video/98E3MHtKYFg/v-deo.html
My 7 year old Ducato has no rust on it at all, including underneath which is spotless. It has been in salt a few times but I get underneath it & wash it everytime & everytime it gets wet, with a hosepipe spray, not a jetwash. That is the secret. The front plastic wheel arches are a magnet for mud & thus salt, if you dont get a hosepipe in those regularly rust will start there soon!!
Some great tips, Dan. Thanks 👍👍
@@HermanHitstheRoad Thanks, yes the mud gets trapped in the wheel arches between the bodywork & the plastic. I took mine out & put extra coatings of Dinitrol in that whole area.
I've posted before , that i've got a slightly newer Hymer 584 (year 2000) , and i have to say my van is in a very similar condition underneath . I do have some rough spots in pretty much the same places , though in the main , these are also mainly confined to the rear end , and my slide out motorcycle rack . Both my front wheel arches appear in slightly better condition , but i think this could be due to my still having the plastic liners fitted , which appear to be missing on Herman . I'm also in the throws of fitting front mud flaps (custom jobby) . I do give the arches a regular pressure wash , and under seal top up yearly , just for the mot .
I'm a little surprised you didn't show the front chassis members , as the offside front is a classic rot area on this age Ducato . But i know you've examined that area , as you showed a rather sad looking removed cross member , and you wouldn't have missed any corrosion during the removal . I had corrosion in this area , but only very light . It's interesting to note , this is despite my examining the area , it only came fully to light after i removed the front bumper . The corrosion was not visible from underneath , though as i said previously , i still have the wheel arch liners fitted . It's since being plated , and repainted , along with the front cross member you showed . I didn't need to replace it , just heavy de-rust , and paint . I also flooded the inside of the chassis with a cavity wax , both sides just. Actually i spent quite a bit of time on the front chassis , mainly inside the engine bay . I had both the intercooler and radiator removed due to other mechanical work going on , so was the perfect time to clean , de-rust , and refinish , both sides . My van had the front splash cover missing when i purchased it , which i've since managed to source and refit , though i do remove it for the mot . It was the very first thing i brought for mine after i purchased it .
I totally agree , the Italians have done a really good job with the chassis , i will admit i was a little worried , mainly due to the famous Alfa-sud , which disappeared in front of your eyes . I just wish i could say the same with the German conversion , i have found a couple of what i would class as bodges in the wiring .
Hi Mickey, thanks for your comment. Really interesting to hear of others looking after their vans 👍👍👍
I think it’s good to check to make sure everything is okay. But after all that hammering around the chassis I’d treat the whole thing to stop any more rest developing. And spray wax oil in all the holes just a thought.🤷♂️
That's what we plan to do like we said in the video, Wiggy 👍👍
hows chas getting on with his aframe. good video allways watch your vids
Thanks David, we're glad you enjoy our videos. Chas loves his A-frame.
Solid
Thanks @Junglestylee 👍👍
That’s a good job there. I’m curious about the chassis type as it seems the Ducato chassis with leaf springs runs all the way back. Most A class Hymers in that era had an AL-KO chassis bolted to the Ducati Cab.
My buddy has a 03 544 and I’ve a 99 E510 and both have galvanised AL-KO chassis with no rust or surface corrosion.
Thanks for your comment, Peter. Ours is a Fiat cab, engine and chassis
@@HermanHitstheRoad yes I spotted that. Ours are Fiat Ducato cab and engine of course, but the chassis is AL-KO. That’s the chassis from behind the front wheels on now. The front suspension mounts, chassis rails over the wheel arches etc is the standard Ducato Cab. When Hymer AL-KO order the shortened Ducato chassis Fiat manufacture a special short tail version which is flanged and two chassis are bolted back to back. The AL-KO is a fine chassis, doesn’t have the surface corrosion issues but…..it does have the torsion bar rear axel. If not maintained, greased etc the torsion bars break as happened with mine. All good now as I replaced the bars and added a Dunlop air suspension kit. I see you’ve the air suspension kit added also 👏👏.
Thanks Peter. Yes, we have the Dunlop air suspension kit fitted
Nice video! I own a 2003 B524 and my front bar under the radiator is also rusted. Did you buy it on Fiat? May I ask how much for that? Thank you!!
Hi Dan. I ordered the crossmember in 2013 off of Ebay. The product was titled "FIAT DUCATO 1994 -2002 FRONT LOWER CROSSMEMBER" at the time and it cost £83. It's pretty simple to fit. I rust protected it first before fitting. I hope that helps?
A lot!! THX!!
NP
Absolutely the only rust on Herman is on your razor blades Ads!! 😂😂😂😂
Haha 😄. 👍
Chaz is a Don!
What's that mean, Matthew?
Could chaz have a look at my Motorhome and fix any problems? If so how do I contact him?
Great video by the way
Thanks Ian. We're happy to answer any questions you have.
Krown rust protection is a good place to get it oil waxed
We'll be using Dinitrol, Peter
My ducato motorhome failed its MOT today, can't get anyone to weld a plate on the OS inner front sill..im in Glasgow if anyone knows anyone 🙏
Sorry to hear that Rob. Do you know why they won't do it?
So, how are you going to lift him to apply the dimitrol? On axle stands or have you got a pit. I have an Alko chassis on mine not sure if it makes much of a difference at the front.
Thanks for your comment, Paul. We intend to use axle stands. As you can see from the video we can lay underneath without any lifting but it'll be a bit cramped.
Part twooooooooooooo?
It'll come, Matthew 😉👍👍
It's 23 years old.
Almost as old as Herman
Your n/s front tyre is shot and possibly been under inflated. Check your tracking as well
What time in the video are you referring to, Glen. The fronts do need replacing but they are not bad
@@HermanHitstheRoad 2:22 ish
@@HermanHitstheRoad inner and outer edges are bald therefore less than required % across the tread for legality. I’d really get a 4 wheel alignment done but also think your under inflating them
Thanks Glen, I'll take a look. They are inflated to the specs in the handbook
@@HermanHitstheRoad then, normally I’d look over the suspension but didn’t you recently replace the bushes etc, but did you do the tracking after?
The thing is with MOT test centres is they'll chance their arm with something as silly as what they advised you on because they know you will rebook which costs £17.50 and they get paid for every fail..winner each way..the amount of fails I've seen on cars and I've looked at what they've advised on and wondered what all the fuss was about..they know the difference between surface rust and rot, they've failed you because it costs to fail you and they come off better..
Thanks for your comment. I've always found test centres honest except the one time, years ago. The problem is when you get the MOT done by a garage who will also do the servicing. Retests are free within a two week period otherwise you have to pay full price again.
@@HermanHitstheRoad I'm in Northern Ireland, retests are £17.50 each..we don't get a 2 week time window like England does..the ones in Mallusk and Larne are known for failing cars, everyone complains about them..
Oh I see, Expletives. Thanks for letting me know. Sounds pants
Lanoguard, thank me later 😀
Thanks Ian. I'll look into that. I've got the Dinitrol stuff 👍👍